I have been looking at videos all over the place to learn how to build cabinet doors (and other stuff, of course). This is *by far* the best method of making doors, with clearly the best tips on making better doors.
Informative, clear, well explained. Calm and well paced without being condescending. If I had a father or grandfather who explained virtually every aspect of everyday living to me like this I’d be a decent, well adjusted person. Thank you SO much for this!
I wish I’d found this video before started my doors. I learned a few things the hard way. By the way, you are a natural born teacher! Definitely have a gift!
Been working in a cabinet shop for a little over a month now - was supposed to be doing real estate appraising but there is no work right now, so a friend hooked me up - the amount of prep, wood putty, and sanding really gave me appreciation for WHY you take so many carefully planned out steps because MAN, when those doors go into someone's kitchen, it's immaculate! For the newbies like me, when you 'break an edge', one or two quick swipes with the sanding block is all you need. My first set of doors I was a bit aggressive. The other thing, you can never clamp your doors together too tightly! You'll see once that first coat of primer goes on.
Nice tips. I really like the idea of making the rails/stiles double wide (plus some) and cutting them in half after the routing is completed. As you said, easier to handle on the router table. Not sure I like the idea of wearing gloves while routing as it seams a bit risky and could get caught in the bit IMHO. I invested in a couple decent push blocks (I love the MicroJig Grr-Rip Blocks for the router and jointer).
Saw this video after a router mishap while working on some raised panel doors(all fingers still attached, just a nice gash from my workpiece and not the bit!) moving forward I will be using this exact process! Thank you for this video! Instant subscriber! I shared with a friend and said, it's probably best to take woodworking advice from an older gentleman (read that with the utmost respect intended!) with all their fingers!!
Thank you for sharing your expertise!!!! I'm making my first set of raised panel doors. You video has brought up some ideas. Hopefully mine will be as easy as yours!!! Thanks again!!!
Thanks for sharing old age and nut-shell of life long experience. I think belt /drum sander is not necessary yet it gives a smooth finish in short time ( time saver ) you are lucky to build a hightech workshop. love your work.❤
Yup, that sander is the thing. I use a stroke sander. I super liked your video because that is a pretty cool way to make doors and panels!! Those doors you were making look exactly like the ones folks pay for when they buy high end. And from what I seen in your video, your door looks so much better!! Great Job!! Great Video!!🕶
I must let you know that I learned something good from you today I was about to buy me a router table but the cost of it is so much money but when I look at your table give me an idea so thanks again for helping me save some money
One of the best explanation how to construct a raised panel door inclusive of safety and valuable knowledge know how / techniques.. Amazing "cool" master woodwork teacher . Thanks for this video !
I'm interested in doing a room with raised panel wainscoting or perhaps full wall paneling. This was a wonderful introduction to that. Thank you. Subscribed.
May I suggest that when you start a router step in your process that you play the first run at real time speed instead of sped up for all. Would probably help some people out there to see how fast they should be shooting for.
Outstanding tutorial. Delivering in a calm steady pace, certainly made me able to catch the information in one run through. Love the router table vs. trying to sell me one. The table has plenty of "real estate" to handle pieces safely and providing stability. I seldom subscribe to channels, but did today and I will take a long look. Love the wide belt sander by the way. First one I have ever seen.
5:40 I think an easier technique for those of us who don't own a jointer is to not make the full depth of cut on the first pass. Make the first pass about 1/32" shallower on all pieces, then follow with a final pass. Adjust the router table fence so the bearing is about 1/32" behind the fence (keeps eh cuter from cutting to the full depth). Eliminates one machine operaton. 7:50 That's a very good technique. Routing then ripping that ensures exact width of rails and stiles.
I am as new as they come to building any of this. I saw to rail and stile bits and literally was wondering what they were for. Yes. That green. Your video not only showed me what they were for the explanation of the much more stylish door was extremely helpful. You advice is very helpful also. Many videos fly through so fast, they leave me wondering "how did they do that?" Thank you Wes.
Hi...actually I am set up to mentor YOU! I now have a website: www.woodworkingwithwes.com and can coach you through any project you would like to build. We would do that through me sending you personalized videos...as many as you need to meet your woodworking goals. It would be great to work together, Wes 😀
Great video Wes, and thumbs up for the discussion and technique! Based on my experience, I don't recommend using budget router bits, such as the Yonico. On the first pass of the third white oak panel, the Yonico ogee raised panel cutter shed one of the cutter edges with a bang. Fortunately, it didn't hurt me, but the router was immediately out of balance and shaking violently until I hit the emergency switch. The panel was ruined, but I didn't see any damage to my router or router table. I replaced the Yonico cutter with a Freud raised panel cutter and have been using it with no problems for several years.
I love the idea of using carpet or floor mats to hold wood and protect underside at the same time. I experienced underside damage from small little defect in workbench so I just had put a thick towel down. this is the first video i have watched of yours and I don't know if mentioned it before. If you haven't you should in a video of little hacks /ideas like that.Could call it "Cheap over looked idea's to save time and money"
You're video was great and full of tips and tricks. Very professional and calm and easy to follow. You should include how you setup the router bit heights for the rails and stiles though. Also, I was wondering why you have a mammoth flat sander in your shop but built a stick/plywood router table.
Well done Wes .I'm planning to build our new kitchen cabinets, we prefer the look of raised panel but worry they will look dated with the more popular shaker style. I wonder what your thoughts are on this? Thanks again, Jake
Just a simple router table and bits you bought from Amazon. I have a simple router table, but then you pull out the professional level woodworking shop to do it. Love your shop but was hoping for the "with only a simple router table" video. I don't even need the raised panel I'm putting smoked plexiglass in the back.
Brilliant video sir! I’ve worked site carpentry here in the UK for a few years and I noticed on one job that all the doors were developing cracks at the joints just a few weeks after being installed. I’ve never heard of those space balls before but I bet that problem was caused by something like that missing from their process. Looking to get into joinery and I’d kill to have a mentor like yourself!
great video i make all my cabinets few years using red oak now my wife wanted to paint all cabinets white question what can i use to fill the wood grain i looks smooth before i painted thanks in advance
yes, this does work for me !! Thanks for the reply. Recently found out by "experimenting" that using a drawer edge bit & then, like you say, glued together. Have not tried either of these methods yet but will try. Never thought of using 5/8", will try that !!
Hi...the unevenness of your panel is very common but can be taken care of by flat sanding your doors with a wide belt or drum sander. Hope this helps. Wes
Using his technique and with 3/4 thick rails and stiles, use 5/8" material for your 😊panels. This will result in a flush fit. Note: when making the rail and stile cuts, the groove is 1/8" from back of rails and stile.
Mr.Wes i did watched hundreds of woodworking/carpentry videos you are THE BEST so far and really enjoying how you are explaining the process of making stuffs , plus the voice when you are talking is very relaxing. One Question whic type of BITS did you buy from Amazon. Keep doing great videos Mr.Wes.
A great video, I had never thought of doubling the rails so they are easier to handle on the router table; to be fair I always use feather boards. I really have mixed opinions on the router bits from Amazon though; on the one hand I can't argue with your results but on the other the set I bought went into the bin to be replaced by considerably more expensive bits from Rutlands and I have definitely had a better experience with them. I am certainly down the route of getting what you pay for, that said I still use an orbital sander from Lidl that I absolutely love after 10 years.
Do not waste money buying inexpensive router bits! Amazon does however, also sell Freud and Whiteside router bits - both best in industry (I have over 40 years experience and have used about every brand bit made - also the two companies I mentioned have always placed high scores in woodworking magazines/reviews/tests
I like to do that wood is my life question get settled in one country wich is colombia I’m in london at the moment but when I got on holiday I try to put together my shop is not easy here you can get tops tools i costly but I just loved in my country I have best hard wood to work any way I like you program and you good teacher thanks
Nice video and great tips. I'm wondering why you don't have a dist collection box on the back of the fence? I have a set up similar to yours and have a box with a dust port and hose connection that i can add to the fence with clamps. Works real good. I set up my fence about a you do and I am wondering how you readjust the fence to the 1/32 of an inch??? Your table saw blade seems to be overly high. i don't have but about 1/8 of an inch out of the wood I am cutting. Just enough to clear the top of the board. I never take a full cut with any panel bit as I find that taking shallow cuts will get me a better final face and I will have less sanding to do. Have been making doors for 50 years and I always put a bit of glue in the middle of the top and bottom of the insert to keep it centered. I was taught that the panel will swell and shrink in width and this will keep the panel in the center. It has not failed me yet. Also, as long as you finish all surfaces of the door, the expanding and contracting will be to a minimum. I always put a barrier of some kind between the pipe and the wood because I have seen staining where the wood and the water from the glue will at times stain ( ever so slightly ) the wood where the pipe touches ... Wish I had, or had access, to a wide belt sander!!!
Trying to read through the comments. For the rails and styles you are using 13/16” stock and for the panel 5/8” stock. Is this correct? Great video! I just was ask for someone to make a custom size raised panel door.
Hi Jade...the stile and rail set used for this door is referred to as a "round over stile and rail set" which is available on Amazon. Thanks for watching. Wes
Mr. Wes, I am new to this. I was thinking about making the doors out of hard maple. I was told that a wider piece for the raised panel would cup. They said I would need to join 2 narrower boards to keep this from happening. Any ideas? Is there a different wood I could use for the wider panels? Thank you very much for the great video!!
Some great tips in here. I like the 1/32” jointer tip. Never thought of that. I’m trying that on my next doors. How do you accommodate the space balls? Do you build the doors and extra 1/16” wider or ?
Hi...as mentioned in the video, the solid wood panel is 1/4" smaller in width and length than the space available in the stile and rail. This allows for the space balls. Thanks, Wes
Thanks. I must’ve missed that. I’m going to try those space balls! And I’m going to use the double wide plus version when cutting the grooves. I’ve been using a coping sled and this would allow me to skip that and probably make fewer setup mistakes. Great instructions. I am appreciating your videos.
I have to agree with some of the comments.. for just 300.00 u can make this door.. well what’s the process of getting flat s4s lumber? If you don’t have a jointer planner and belt sander it’s going to take you a bit more time to do if at all. Working with s4s and dry lumber is key to making these doors most people don’t have 1,500 worth of jointers and planners and that’s cheap ones.
Hello. Love your video. I need some advise. I built a cabinet using ordinary plywood, about 1/3 inch thick. It was just a big box. No shelves or anything inside. I used ordinary nails to hold them together. I used a hinge on one side to serve as the door. But over time, the sides began to curve or bend. Is there a type of wood I could use that doesnt bend or curve over time? Thanks.🙂
Question? When you ran the door through the big sander you put them in at a angle. I'm sure you do it for a purpose but was wondering what that was. I'm new to this hobby learning what I can as wood cost so darn much now I don't want to wast to much because I was stupid. LOL I have a scrap pile already big enough.
great video. making the table and I purchased a Bosch raised panel bit. question. do you lower the speed of the router and do you take small bits to make the profile, or can you do it in one pass once the thickness is established? thanks
Hi...I don't lower the speed of the router and I make multiple cuts increasing the depth with every cut until I reach the full depth for best results. Thanks for watching. Wes
You make it look so simple. One question....Say you need to make a door that is 15" wide x 22" tall. You cut your rails and stiles that lay out to be that size, but I'm assuming when you do all the routing, you've decreased the footprint of the door right? Is there a standard length that you add to the rails and stiles so that after routing, you're left with the desired size door? Sorry if this is a dumb question.
Lets do some math to see if I can help you. Assume your stiles and rails are 3" wide, your stiles will be the full height (22") your 15" width would be calculated by subtracting the width of your stiles (6") and adding the depth of the slot that your router bit makes (typically 3/8" ). That would leave you a rail of 9 3/4" and when you do your end cuts on your rails you will have a 9" panel opening. I hope I haven't confused you...I am sure you will do great. Wes
Thank you Wes. If you were building a standard shaker door would also use the router setup or would use the table saw? I got rid of my big Unisaw and my dado set to downsize and I am not convinced the contractor saw will do well with the dado set but I enjoy making cabinets and doors and the router setup might be my best option.
Hi Aaron...we have a video showing exactly what you are looking for: th-cam.com/video/wvr68ClpuU4/w-d-xo.html Thanks for your comment, we appreciate the visit. Wes
Great video, Wes! 1 question, wouldn’t it be better to sand and finish the panel’s outer edges before assembling? Otherwise, if the panel moves, it won’t show an unfinished/unsanded line…
Yes, thats always recommended. Same for ship lap or toung and grove. See this mistake all the time especially with painting, winter hits and you have exposed lines EVERYWHERE
Nice video but if your center panel was the same thickness of your stiles and rails then that panel would be sticking up about 1/8" higher than the frame. If using same thickness panel you may want to back cut your panel to allow it to set lower in the frame thus eliminating so much of the surface to be sanded off. You would account for this by cutting less deep on the cove profile. Many raised panel cutters have this back cutter incorporated into the design. JMHO :)
Yes! I was wondering the same thing. Also, many of us don’t have access to wide belt sanders to bring everything level, so the best method is the one you mentioned.
Hi...I used a Porter Cable 1 3/4 horse router that I purchased from Amazon. Unfortunately, they don't offer them anymore. The do offer a 1 3/4 Dewalt router that would do the job.
I used to work in a cabinet shop. This guy knows what he is doing. His attention to detail is awesome.
The little tips like the jointer pass and not ripping your parts until after applying the profiles are amazing.
Glad it was helpful! It has always helped me make a better door. Thanks for watching, Wes
I feel like every time I was one of your videos its like my grandpa sharing his wisdom, I appreciate it very much.
Glad to hear it...thank you for the kind comment. Wes
I have been looking at videos all over the place to learn how to build cabinet doors (and other stuff, of course). This is *by far* the best method of making doors, with clearly the best tips on making better doors.
Glad I could help...thank you very much for your kind comment. Wes
Informative, clear, well explained. Calm and well paced without being condescending.
If I had a father or grandfather who explained virtually every aspect of everyday living to me like this I’d be a decent, well adjusted person.
Thank you SO much for this!
Thank you for such a very kind comment. Glad you visited the channel ! Wes
I wish I’d found this video before started my doors. I learned a few things the hard way.
By the way, you are a natural born teacher! Definitely have a gift!
Thanks Wes. Love your content. Have a great weekend.
Been working in a cabinet shop for a little over a month now - was supposed to be doing real estate appraising but there is no work right now, so a friend hooked me up - the amount of prep, wood putty, and sanding really gave me appreciation for WHY you take so many carefully planned out steps because MAN, when those doors go into someone's kitchen, it's immaculate!
For the newbies like me, when you 'break an edge', one or two quick swipes with the sanding block is all you need. My first set of doors I was a bit aggressive. The other thing, you can never clamp your doors together too tightly! You'll see once that first coat of primer goes on.
Nice tips. I really like the idea of making the rails/stiles double wide (plus some) and cutting them in half after the routing is completed. As you said, easier to handle on the router table.
Not sure I like the idea of wearing gloves while routing as it seams a bit risky and could get caught in the bit IMHO. I invested in a couple decent push blocks (I love the MicroJig Grr-Rip Blocks for the router and jointer).
Great example of craftsmanship,a joy to watch.
This is an excellent demonstration and thank you for thorough explanation step by step.
Absolutely love this !!!!
I now wanna go get some tools and build a kitchen, great job door looks fantastic
Very good explanation how to make panel doors. You're a good teacher.
Thank you for your kind words! Wes
like that tip on running thru jointer to get better (chipless) looking edge on stile/rail thanx rick
Glad to help...thank you for your comment. Wes
I agree with you 💯 Why didn’t I think about that. This is why I watch these videos.
Saw this video after a router mishap while working on some raised panel doors(all fingers still attached, just a nice gash from my workpiece and not the bit!) moving forward I will be using this exact process! Thank you for this video! Instant subscriber!
I shared with a friend and said, it's probably best to take woodworking advice from an older gentleman (read that with the utmost respect intended!) with all their fingers!!
Thank you for your kind words...glad you enjoyed the video. Wes
Thank you for sharing your expertise!!!! I'm making my first set of raised panel doors. You video has brought up some ideas. Hopefully mine will be as easy as yours!!! Thanks again!!!
Thanks for sharing old age and nut-shell of life long experience.
I think belt /drum sander is not necessary yet it gives a smooth finish in short time ( time saver )
you are lucky to build a hightech workshop. love your work.❤
Yup, that sander is the thing. I use a stroke sander. I super liked your video because that is a pretty cool way to make doors and panels!! Those doors you were making look exactly like the ones folks pay for when they buy high end. And from what I seen in your video, your door looks so much better!! Great Job!! Great Video!!🕶
Yeah I agree. I worked in a cabinet makers for years and this guy knows his stuff. 👍
Hi...well I certainly appreciate the kind words! Thanks for watching, Wes
Great commentary - very systematic and calm. Thanks. Giving me confidence to have a crack at my own panel doors.
You can do it! Thanks for watching, Wes
Master i learn lots from u!! Now im doing works and make good money!! Thank u!!
Great processing tips, Wes. Thank you for your contribution to the woodworking education community.
Hi...thank you very much for your kind words. Wes
I must let you know that I learned something good from you today I was about to buy me a router table but the cost of it is so much money but when I look at your table give me an idea so thanks again for helping me save some money
One of the best explanation how to construct a raised panel door inclusive of safety and valuable knowledge know how / techniques.. Amazing "cool" master woodwork teacher . Thanks for this video !
Hi...thank you so much for your kind words. Glad you enjoyed the video, Wes
I'm interested in doing a room with raised panel wainscoting or perhaps full wall paneling. This was a wonderful introduction to that. Thank you. Subscribed.
Outstanding work God continue to bless you.😅😊
Wonderful video! You are an awesome resource, thanks so much for posting and inspiring!
Thank you for your kind words and visiting the channel! Wes
May I suggest that when you start a router step in your process that you play the first run at real time speed instead of sped up for all. Would probably help some people out there to see how fast they should be shooting for.
Thank you...I appreciate the comment. Wes
Very informative video. Thanks for sharing this. Take care and God Bless.
Hi...I appreciate you watching. Thanks for the kind words! Wes 😀
I like the jointer tip. I’ll definitely do that on my doors.
Outstanding tutorial. Delivering in a calm steady pace, certainly made me able to catch the information in one run through. Love the router table vs. trying to sell me one. The table has plenty of "real estate" to handle pieces safely and providing stability. I seldom subscribe to channels, but did today and I will take a long look. Love the wide belt sander by the way. First one I have ever seen.
Glad you enjoyed the video and thank you for joining our woodworking community. Wes
5:40 I think an easier technique for those of us who don't own a jointer is to not make the full depth of cut on the first pass. Make the first pass about 1/32" shallower on all pieces, then follow with a final pass. Adjust the router table fence so the bearing is about 1/32" behind the fence (keeps eh cuter from cutting to the full depth). Eliminates one machine operaton.
7:50 That's a very good technique. Routing then ripping that ensures exact width of rails and stiles.
Yes...that is an acceptable alternative for sure. Thanks for your comment. Wes
I turned down my bit speed and it helped as well.
I am as new as they come to building any of this. I saw to rail and stile bits and literally was wondering what they were for. Yes. That green. Your video not only showed me what they were for the explanation of the much more stylish door was extremely helpful. You advice is very helpful also. Many videos fly through so fast, they leave me wondering "how did they do that?" Thank you Wes.
Beautiful job Wes! Would like to see the next step in finishing them with paint.
Dan...we have many finishing videos on our channel to help you. Thanks for watching. Wes
Nice video. Great tip with the jointer!
Glad it was helpful...thank you so much for visiting the channel. Wes
Great technique and an excellent video, great job as always Wes!!👌👌👌👌👌👌
Glad you liked it!
Thank You!! I wish i had you as a mentor!! :)
Hi...actually I am set up to mentor YOU! I now have a website:
www.woodworkingwithwes.com and can coach you
through any project you would like to build. We would do that through me sending you personalized videos...as many as you need to meet your woodworking goals. It would be great to work together, Wes 😀
Great video Wes, and thumbs up for the discussion and technique! Based on my experience, I don't recommend using budget router bits, such as the Yonico. On the first pass of the third white oak panel, the Yonico ogee raised panel cutter shed one of the cutter edges with a bang. Fortunately, it didn't hurt me, but the router was immediately out of balance and shaking violently until I hit the emergency switch. The panel was ruined, but I didn't see any damage to my router or router table. I replaced the Yonico cutter with a Freud raised panel cutter and have been using it with no problems for several years.
Thank you very much for your comment. Wes
All the years building doors and I never thought of cutting rails and stiles double wide. I have to try that next time.
You should! Thanks for watching. Wes
Thank you for sharing!
Great Video. Just starting my first project of cabinet doors. This will be useful.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching, Wes
I love the idea of using carpet or floor mats to hold wood and protect underside at the same time. I experienced underside damage from small little defect in workbench so I just had put a thick towel down. this is the first video i have watched of yours and I don't know if mentioned it before. If you haven't you should in a video of little hacks /ideas like that.Could call it "Cheap over looked idea's to save time and money"
Use carpet padding to route or sand on your work piece won’t slide
You're video was great and full of tips and tricks. Very professional and calm and easy to follow. You should include how you setup the router bit heights for the rails and stiles though. Also, I was wondering why you have a mammoth flat sander in your shop but built a stick/plywood router table.
What an awesome video. Thank you
Hi...glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for visiting the channel. Wes
That is awesome! Thanks for sharing. Be safe.
Nice job Wes
Awesome Video
Well done Wes .I'm planning to build our new kitchen cabinets, we prefer the look of raised panel but worry they will look dated with the more popular shaker style. I wonder what your thoughts are on this? Thanks again, Jake
Very good video
Great job thank you for sharing that was very helpful
Glad it was helpful...thank you for watching! Wes
Amazing job. Thanks for sharing sir.
Just a simple router table and bits you bought from Amazon. I have a simple router table, but then you pull out the professional level woodworking shop to do it. Love your shop but was hoping for the "with only a simple router table" video. I don't even need the raised panel I'm putting smoked plexiglass in the back.
great work
SuperMan.Super work🎂
Really enjoy your videos thank you
Glad you like them! Thank you very much for being part of our community. Wes
Wes your the best….I can tell your years of experience has made you a true professional….love your videos
I appreciate that! Thank you very much for your comment. Wes
Brilliant video sir! I’ve worked site carpentry here in the UK for a few years and I noticed on one job that all the doors were developing cracks at the joints just a few weeks after being installed. I’ve never heard of those space balls before but I bet that problem was caused by something like that missing from their process. Looking to get into joinery and I’d kill to have a mentor like yourself!
Hi Jordan...thank you so much for your comment. Space balls are an absolute necessity in building a
raised panel style door. Thanks for watching, Wes
Great video! Thankyou.
Glad you liked it...thanks for watching, Wes
great video i make all my cabinets few years using red oak now my wife wanted to paint all cabinets white question what can i use to fill the wood grain i looks smooth before i painted thanks in advance
yes, this does work for me !! Thanks for the reply. Recently found out by "experimenting" that using a drawer edge bit & then, like you say, glued together. Have not tried either of these methods yet but will try. Never thought of using 5/8", will try that !!
I can’t finger out how to make my panel flush with the stile and rails. My panel is always proud.
Hi...the unevenness of your panel is very common but can be taken care of by flat sanding your doors with a wide belt or drum sander. Hope this helps. Wes
Panel raising bit make need adjustment.
Take a rabbit bit to back of the panel to bring it back flush.
Using his technique and with 3/4 thick rails and stiles, use 5/8" material for your 😊panels. This will result in a flush fit. Note: when making the rail and stile cuts, the groove is 1/8" from back of rails and stile.
Mr.Wes i did watched hundreds of woodworking/carpentry videos you are THE BEST so far and really enjoying how you are explaining the process of making stuffs , plus the voice when you are talking is very relaxing. One Question whic type of BITS did you buy from Amazon. Keep doing great videos Mr.Wes.
Wow, thanks! There is a link in our description for the Amazon bits that we use. I appreciate your kind words. Wes
Great explanation! 🎉
Great Video. You earned a sub.
Thank you very much for joining our community! Wes
Nice job and enjoyed watching. Appreciate your sharing. Subbed.
Thanks for the sub! Wes
A great video, I had never thought of doubling the rails so they are easier to handle on the router table; to be fair I always use feather boards.
I really have mixed opinions on the router bits from Amazon though; on the one hand I can't argue with your results but on the other the set I bought went into the bin to be replaced by considerably more expensive bits from Rutlands and I have definitely had a better experience with them. I am certainly down the route of getting what you pay for, that said I still use an orbital sander from Lidl that I absolutely love after 10 years.
Do not waste money buying inexpensive router bits! Amazon does however, also sell Freud and Whiteside router bits - both best in industry (I have over 40 years experience and have used about every brand bit made - also the two companies I mentioned have always placed high scores in woodworking magazines/reviews/tests
I like to do that wood is my life question get settled in one country wich is colombia I’m in london at the moment but when I got on holiday I try to put together my shop is not easy here you can get tops tools i costly but I just loved in my country I have best hard wood to work any way I like you program and you good teacher thanks
Thanks for the comment...good luck in your woodworking! Wes
Thanks 😊 👍
Welcome 😊
Nice video and great tips. I'm wondering why you don't have a dist collection box on the back of the fence? I have a set up similar to yours and have a box with a dust port and hose connection that i can add to the fence with clamps. Works real good. I set up my fence about a you do and I am wondering how you readjust the fence to the 1/32 of an inch??? Your table saw blade seems to be overly high. i don't have but about 1/8 of an inch out of the wood I am cutting. Just enough to clear the top of the board. I never take a full cut with any panel bit as I find that taking shallow cuts will get me a better final face and I will have less sanding to do. Have been making doors for 50 years and I always put a bit of glue in the middle of the top and bottom of the insert to keep it centered. I was taught that the panel will swell and shrink in width and this will keep the panel in the center. It has not failed me yet. Also, as long as you finish all surfaces of the door, the expanding and contracting will be to a minimum. I always put a barrier of some kind between the pipe and the wood because I have seen staining where the wood and the water from the glue will at times stain ( ever so slightly ) the wood where the pipe touches ... Wish I had, or had access, to a wide belt sander!!!
Wes, excellent video as always. Would it be possible to do a video on how to make your router fence. Thanks in advance.
Great suggestion...we will make that happen. Thanks, Wes
Clearly explain 💯💡👍
Trying to read through the comments. For the rails and styles you are using 13/16” stock and for the panel 5/8” stock. Is this correct? Great video! I just was ask for someone to make a custom size raised panel door.
What kind of router are you working with Thanks for these videos they are interesting
Hi...my router is 1 3/4 hp Porter Cable. I am not sure they still make it but I think DeWalt has one the same size. Thanks for watching, Wes
Nice work Wes, could you do a shop tour sometime?
Yes, soon...thanks for the suggestion. Wes
Hi, I'd like to know the name of the router bit you are using when you were making your stiles and rails (3:32) Nice and helpful video 👍
Hi Jade...the stile and rail set used for this door is referred to as a "round over stile and rail set" which is available on Amazon. Thanks for watching. Wes
Mr. Wes, I am new to this. I was thinking about making the doors out of hard maple. I was told that a wider piece for the raised panel would cup. They said I would need to join 2 narrower boards to keep this from happening. Any ideas? Is there a different wood I could use for the wider panels? Thank you very much
for the great video!!
This is helpful, I have a large project on my calendar requiring raised panels. How much thinner should the panel be then the rails and styles?
Hi...subtract the thickness of the back lip of the groove from the stile thickness for your panel. Thanks for watching. Wes
Some great tips in here. I like the 1/32” jointer tip. Never thought of that. I’m trying that on my next doors. How do you accommodate the space balls? Do you build the doors and extra 1/16” wider or ?
Hi...as mentioned in the video, the solid wood panel is 1/4" smaller in width and length than the space available in the stile and rail. This allows for the space balls. Thanks, Wes
Thanks. I must’ve missed that. I’m going to try those space balls! And I’m going to use the double wide plus version when cutting the grooves. I’ve been using a coping sled and this would allow me to skip that and probably make fewer setup mistakes. Great instructions. I am appreciating your videos.
I have to agree with some of the comments.. for just 300.00 u can make this door.. well what’s the process of getting flat s4s lumber? If you don’t have a jointer planner and belt sander it’s going to take you a bit more time to do if at all. Working with s4s and dry lumber is key to making these doors most people don’t have 1,500 worth of jointers and planners and that’s cheap ones.
Nice
Hello. Love your video. I need some advise. I built a cabinet using ordinary plywood, about 1/3 inch thick. It was just a big box. No shelves or anything inside. I used ordinary nails to hold them together. I used a hinge on one side to serve as the door. But over time, the sides began to curve or bend. Is there a type of wood I could use that doesnt bend or curve over time? Thanks.🙂
The thinner the plywood the more tendency it has to bend. I would suggest a good quality 3/4" plywood for your next project. Thanks, Wes
My 1.75 horsepower router burnt out today making raised panels. Right after the first one I made.
Should I upgrade to a 3.5 ?
Space Balls!!!
I like the way you did this. One question, how thick is the center panel?
I would guess 1/2” as there is about 1/4” on the back side of the panel and it’s flush with the door sides which are 3/4”.
Question? When you ran the door through the big sander you put them in at a angle. I'm sure you do it for a purpose but was wondering what that was. I'm new to this hobby learning what I can as wood cost so darn much now I don't want to wast to much because I was stupid. LOL I have a scrap pile already big enough.
great video. making the table and I purchased a Bosch raised panel bit. question. do you lower the speed of the router and do you take small bits to make the profile, or can you do it in one pass once the thickness is established? thanks
Hi...I don't lower the speed of the router and I make multiple cuts increasing the depth with every cut until I reach the full depth for best results. Thanks for watching. Wes
Hi Do you do doors with Teak .. we might want few of those interior doors for a home..
Sorry I have never worked with teak wood. Thanks for watching, Wes
You make it look so simple. One question....Say you need to make a door that is 15" wide x 22" tall. You cut your rails and stiles that lay out to be that size, but I'm assuming when you do all the routing, you've decreased the footprint of the door right? Is there a standard length that you add to the rails and stiles so that after routing, you're left with the desired size door? Sorry if this is a dumb question.
Lets do some math to see if I can help you. Assume your stiles and rails are 3" wide, your stiles will be the full height (22") your 15" width would be calculated by subtracting the width of your stiles (6") and adding the depth of the slot that your router bit makes (typically 3/8" ). That would leave you a rail of 9 3/4" and when you do your end cuts on your rails you will have a 9" panel opening. I hope I haven't confused you...I am sure you will do great. Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes That makes sense. Thank you for your reply!
What if you dont have a jointer to smooth the chipout? Is there an alternative?
Hi....you could carefully do it with a fine tooth saw blade on your saw. Thanks for watching, Wes
@WoodworkingWithWes that works out I actually have one of those I appreciate the response. Have a great day
Thank you Wes. If you were building a standard shaker door would also use the router setup or would use the table saw? I got rid of my big Unisaw and my dado set to downsize and I am not convinced the contractor saw will do well with the dado set but I enjoy making cabinets and doors and the router setup might be my best option.
Hi Aaron...we have a video showing exactly what you are looking for:
th-cam.com/video/wvr68ClpuU4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for your comment, we appreciate the visit. Wes
Great video, Wes!
1 question, wouldn’t it be better to sand and finish the panel’s outer edges before assembling? Otherwise, if the panel moves, it won’t show an unfinished/unsanded line…
Yes, thats always recommended. Same for ship lap or toung and grove. See this mistake all the time especially with painting, winter hits and you have exposed lines EVERYWHERE
How would you clean up that edge without a jointer?
Is the thickness of the panel less than the thickness of the rails and stiles?
Yes, the panel is only 5/8" thick. Thanks for watching, Wes
Can you help me with the machine / bit used to get those panel edges done
So maybe I missed it but if the stiles and rails are 3/4” and the panel is 3/4”, how is the panel not at least 1/8” higher than the frame?
Nice video but if your center panel was the same thickness of your stiles and rails then that panel would be sticking up about 1/8" higher than the frame. If using same thickness panel you may want to back cut your panel to allow it to set lower in the frame thus eliminating so much of the surface to be sanded off. You would account for this by cutting less deep on the cove profile. Many raised panel cutters have this back cutter incorporated into the design. JMHO :)
Yes! I was wondering the same thing. Also, many of us don’t have access to wide belt sanders to bring everything level, so the best method is the one you mentioned.
please provide information on the bits to buy
Amazon
amzn.to/42L3qeh
I know this is red oak. Is this cabinet grade plywood or true oak lumber? Will plywood deliver a good finish as well?
Matched stile & rail 3/8" tenon sucks, the joints can break off the panel groove. Deeper M&T is worth the time & wont fail
Hi Wes,
Really nice work
Can you please recommend a router that I can buy that will be able to do this???
Hi...I used a Porter Cable 1 3/4 horse router that I purchased from Amazon. Unfortunately, they don't offer them anymore. The do offer a 1 3/4 Dewalt router that would do the job.
Nice!
Thanks! I appreciate the visit...Wes