Making Raised Panel Doors The Easy Way
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- #raisedpaneldoor #cabinetdoors #bathroomcabinetdoors
Building a professional quality raised panel door doesn't require a large investment. Follow Wes as he takes you step-by-step through this process. With the use of only router bits and a simple router table, you too can make top notch raised panel doors.
Panel Size...9 x 20 1/2 "
5/8" thick
The panel is 1/4" less (W x H) than the maximum size available to allow for the space balls.
Video Showing Router Table Build:
• Easy To Build Router T...
Amazon links to router bits used for this door
amzn.to/3EzchDW
amzn.to/2Z4NqHT
I used to work in a cabinet shop. This guy knows what he is doing. His attention to detail is awesome.
The little tips like the jointer pass and not ripping your parts until after applying the profiles are amazing.
Glad it was helpful! It has always helped me make a better door. Thanks for watching, Wes
I feel like every time I was one of your videos its like my grandpa sharing his wisdom, I appreciate it very much.
Glad to hear it...thank you for the kind comment. Wes
I have been looking at videos all over the place to learn how to build cabinet doors (and other stuff, of course). This is *by far* the best method of making doors, with clearly the best tips on making better doors.
Glad I could help...thank you very much for your kind comment. Wes
Nice video. Great tip with the jointer!
Glad it was helpful...thank you so much for visiting the channel. Wes
Great commentary - very systematic and calm. Thanks. Giving me confidence to have a crack at my own panel doors.
You can do it! Thanks for watching, Wes
Been working in a cabinet shop for a little over a month now - was supposed to be doing real estate appraising but there is no work right now, so a friend hooked me up - the amount of prep, wood putty, and sanding really gave me appreciation for WHY you take so many carefully planned out steps because MAN, when those doors go into someone's kitchen, it's immaculate!
For the newbies like me, when you 'break an edge', one or two quick swipes with the sanding block is all you need. My first set of doors I was a bit aggressive. The other thing, you can never clamp your doors together too tightly! You'll see once that first coat of primer goes on.
Great example of craftsmanship,a joy to watch.
Saw this video after a router mishap while working on some raised panel doors(all fingers still attached, just a nice gash from my workpiece and not the bit!) moving forward I will be using this exact process! Thank you for this video! Instant subscriber!
I shared with a friend and said, it's probably best to take woodworking advice from an older gentleman (read that with the utmost respect intended!) with all their fingers!!
Thank you for your kind words...glad you enjoyed the video. Wes
One of the best explanation how to construct a raised panel door inclusive of safety and valuable knowledge know how / techniques.. Amazing "cool" master woodwork teacher . Thanks for this video !
Hi...thank you so much for your kind words. Glad you enjoyed the video, Wes
Very good explanation how to make panel doors. You're a good teacher.
Thank you for your kind words! Wes
Nice tips. I really like the idea of making the rails/stiles double wide (plus some) and cutting them in half after the routing is completed. As you said, easier to handle on the router table.
Not sure I like the idea of wearing gloves while routing as it seams a bit risky and could get caught in the bit IMHO. I invested in a couple decent push blocks (I love the MicroJig Grr-Rip Blocks for the router and jointer).
Thank you for sharing your expertise!!!! I'm making my first set of raised panel doors. You video has brought up some ideas. Hopefully mine will be as easy as yours!!! Thanks again!!!
like that tip on running thru jointer to get better (chipless) looking edge on stile/rail thanx rick
Glad to help...thank you for your comment. Wes
I agree with you 💯 Why didn’t I think about that. This is why I watch these videos.
Wes your the best….I can tell your years of experience has made you a true professional….love your videos
I appreciate that! Thank you very much for your comment. Wes
Thanks for sharing old age and nut-shell of life long experience.
I think belt /drum sander is not necessary yet it gives a smooth finish in short time ( time saver )
you are lucky to build a hightech workshop. love your work.❤
Yup, that sander is the thing. I use a stroke sander. I super liked your video because that is a pretty cool way to make doors and panels!! Those doors you were making look exactly like the ones folks pay for when they buy high end. And from what I seen in your video, your door looks so much better!! Great Job!! Great Video!!🕶
I must let you know that I learned something good from you today I was about to buy me a router table but the cost of it is so much money but when I look at your table give me an idea so thanks again for helping me save some money
Master i learn lots from u!! Now im doing works and make good money!! Thank u!!
I'm interested in doing a room with raised panel wainscoting or perhaps full wall paneling. This was a wonderful introduction to that. Thank you. Subscribed.
I am as new as they come to building any of this. I saw to rail and stile bits and literally was wondering what they were for. Yes. That green. Your video not only showed me what they were for the explanation of the much more stylish door was extremely helpful. You advice is very helpful also. Many videos fly through so fast, they leave me wondering "how did they do that?" Thank you Wes.
Great technique and an excellent video, great job as always Wes!!👌👌👌👌👌👌
Glad you liked it!
Beautiful job Wes! Would like to see the next step in finishing them with paint.
Dan...we have many finishing videos on our channel to help you. Thanks for watching. Wes
5:40 I think an easier technique for those of us who don't own a jointer is to not make the full depth of cut on the first pass. Make the first pass about 1/32" shallower on all pieces, then follow with a final pass. Adjust the router table fence so the bearing is about 1/32" behind the fence (keeps eh cuter from cutting to the full depth). Eliminates one machine operaton.
7:50 That's a very good technique. Routing then ripping that ensures exact width of rails and stiles.
Yes...that is an acceptable alternative for sure. Thanks for your comment. Wes
Outstanding work God continue to bless you.😅😊
Wonderful video! You are an awesome resource, thanks so much for posting and inspiring!
Thank you for your kind words and visiting the channel! Wes
That is awesome! Thanks for sharing. Be safe.
I can’t finger out how to make my panel flush with the stile and rails. My panel is always proud.
Hi...the unevenness of your panel is very common but can be taken care of by flat sanding your doors with a wide belt or drum sander. Hope this helps. Wes
Panel raising bit make need adjustment.
Take a rabbit bit to back of the panel to bring it back flush.
Using his technique and with 3/4 thick rails and stiles, use 5/8" material for your 😊panels. This will result in a flush fit. Note: when making the rail and stile cuts, the groove is 1/8" from back of rails and stile.
Nice job Wes
Great Video. Just starting my first project of cabinet doors. This will be useful.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching, Wes
Awesome Video
Great job thank you for sharing that was very helpful
Glad it was helpful...thank you for watching! Wes
great work
Damn, no dust collection? Savage
Great explanation! 🎉
Really enjoy your videos thank you
Glad you like them! Thank you very much for being part of our community. Wes
May I suggest that when you start a router step in your process that you play the first run at real time speed instead of sped up for all. Would probably help some people out there to see how fast they should be shooting for.
Thank you...I appreciate the comment. Wes
Amazing job. Thanks for sharing sir.
Thanks 😊 👍
Welcome 😊
Brilliant video sir! I’ve worked site carpentry here in the UK for a few years and I noticed on one job that all the doors were developing cracks at the joints just a few weeks after being installed. I’ve never heard of those space balls before but I bet that problem was caused by something like that missing from their process. Looking to get into joinery and I’d kill to have a mentor like yourself!
Hi Jordan...thank you so much for your comment. Space balls are an absolute necessity in building a
raised panel style door. Thanks for watching, Wes
Clearly explain 💯💡👍
Nice
Well done Wes .I'm planning to build our new kitchen cabinets, we prefer the look of raised panel but worry they will look dated with the more popular shaker style. I wonder what your thoughts are on this? Thanks again, Jake
Great Video. You earned a sub.
Thank you very much for joining our community! Wes
great video i make all my cabinets few years using red oak now my wife wanted to paint all cabinets white question what can i use to fill the wood grain i looks smooth before i painted thanks in advance
Wes, excellent video as always. Would it be possible to do a video on how to make your router fence. Thanks in advance.
Great suggestion...we will make that happen. Thanks, Wes
Matched stile & rail 3/8" tenon sucks, the joints can break off the panel groove. Deeper M&T is worth the time & wont fail
Nice job and enjoyed watching. Appreciate your sharing. Subbed.
Thanks for the sub! Wes
Trying to read through the comments. For the rails and styles you are using 13/16” stock and for the panel 5/8” stock. Is this correct? Great video! I just was ask for someone to make a custom size raised panel door.
yes, this does work for me !! Thanks for the reply. Recently found out by "experimenting" that using a drawer edge bit & then, like you say, glued together. Have not tried either of these methods yet but will try. Never thought of using 5/8", will try that !!
Mr.Wes i did watched hundreds of woodworking/carpentry videos you are THE BEST so far and really enjoying how you are explaining the process of making stuffs , plus the voice when you are talking is very relaxing. One Question whic type of BITS did you buy from Amazon. Keep doing great videos Mr.Wes.
Wow, thanks! There is a link in our description for the Amazon bits that we use. I appreciate your kind words. Wes
I like to do that wood is my life question get settled in one country wich is colombia I’m in london at the moment but when I got on holiday I try to put together my shop is not easy here you can get tops tools i costly but I just loved in my country I have best hard wood to work any way I like you program and you good teacher thanks
Thanks for the comment...good luck in your woodworking! Wes
Nice video and great tips. I'm wondering why you don't have a dist collection box on the back of the fence? I have a set up similar to yours and have a box with a dust port and hose connection that i can add to the fence with clamps. Works real good. I set up my fence about a you do and I am wondering how you readjust the fence to the 1/32 of an inch??? Your table saw blade seems to be overly high. i don't have but about 1/8 of an inch out of the wood I am cutting. Just enough to clear the top of the board. I never take a full cut with any panel bit as I find that taking shallow cuts will get me a better final face and I will have less sanding to do. Have been making doors for 50 years and I always put a bit of glue in the middle of the top and bottom of the insert to keep it centered. I was taught that the panel will swell and shrink in width and this will keep the panel in the center. It has not failed me yet. Also, as long as you finish all surfaces of the door, the expanding and contracting will be to a minimum. I always put a barrier of some kind between the pipe and the wood because I have seen staining where the wood and the water from the glue will at times stain ( ever so slightly ) the wood where the pipe touches ... Wish I had, or had access, to a wide belt sander!!!
What are you doing prior to prep the boards? Lumber yard doesn’t exactly sell flat/parallel and true pieces…
You make it look so simple. One question....Say you need to make a door that is 15" wide x 22" tall. You cut your rails and stiles that lay out to be that size, but I'm assuming when you do all the routing, you've decreased the footprint of the door right? Is there a standard length that you add to the rails and stiles so that after routing, you're left with the desired size door? Sorry if this is a dumb question.
Lets do some math to see if I can help you. Assume your stiles and rails are 3" wide, your stiles will be the full height (22") your 15" width would be calculated by subtracting the width of your stiles (6") and adding the depth of the slot that your router bit makes (typically 3/8" ). That would leave you a rail of 9 3/4" and when you do your end cuts on your rails you will have a 9" panel opening. I hope I haven't confused you...I am sure you will do great. Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes That makes sense. Thank you for your reply!
Nice!
Thanks! I appreciate the visit...Wes
Great video, Wes!
1 question, wouldn’t it be better to sand and finish the panel’s outer edges before assembling? Otherwise, if the panel moves, it won’t show an unfinished/unsanded line…
Yes, thats always recommended. Same for ship lap or toung and grove. See this mistake all the time especially with painting, winter hits and you have exposed lines EVERYWHERE
Solid wood panel doors cost a fortune to make today. Still less than store bought. Great video nevertheless! Thanks.
Informative, clear, well explained. Calm and well paced without being condescending.
If I had a father or grandfather who explained virtually every aspect of everyday living to me like this I’d be a decent, well adjusted person.
Thank you SO much for this!
Thank you for such a very kind comment. Glad you visited the channel ! Wes
I wish I’d found this video before started my doors. I learned a few things the hard way.
By the way, you are a natural born teacher! Definitely have a gift!
Nice video but if your center panel was the same thickness of your stiles and rails then that panel would be sticking up about 1/8" higher than the frame. If using same thickness panel you may want to back cut your panel to allow it to set lower in the frame thus eliminating so much of the surface to be sanded off. You would account for this by cutting less deep on the cove profile. Many raised panel cutters have this back cutter incorporated into the design. JMHO :)
Yes! I was wondering the same thing. Also, many of us don’t have access to wide belt sanders to bring everything level, so the best method is the one you mentioned.
Cho hỏi máy soi bao nhiêu w thì làm được bạn
What kind of router are you working with Thanks for these videos they are interesting
Hi...my router is 1 3/4 hp Porter Cable. I am not sure they still make it but I think DeWalt has one the same size. Thanks for watching, Wes
What you really could do is show how you would do an extended tenon door. For larger doors.
Some great tips in here. I like the 1/32” jointer tip. Never thought of that. I’m trying that on my next doors. How do you accommodate the space balls? Do you build the doors and extra 1/16” wider or ?
Hi...as mentioned in the video, the solid wood panel is 1/4" smaller in width and length than the space available in the stile and rail. This allows for the space balls. Thanks, Wes
Thanks. I must’ve missed that. I’m going to try those space balls! And I’m going to use the double wide plus version when cutting the grooves. I’ve been using a coping sled and this would allow me to skip that and probably make fewer setup mistakes. Great instructions. I am appreciating your videos.
How about mahagony
My 1.75 horsepower router burnt out today making raised panels. Right after the first one I made.
Should I upgrade to a 3.5 ?
How would you clean up that edge without a jointer?
Good helpful tips…but not even a riving knife on the table saw?
Double width can cause problems when you split it and the pieces distort... Where's the vacuum system?? Pay more attention to grain direction...
The fence building wasn’t in this video or the building of the table. I saw the dust flying out the bottom, so I assume the fence was solid at the back
On the channel I have additional videos on building the router table and the fence. Thanks for watching, Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes Wes, was there a separate video on the fence? The building of the router table video said the fence construction would be covered in the door video, but it wasn't covered in either. Great videos, by the way. I have to build a door where the flipper of my house pulled out a trash compactor and installed a random door that is the wrong size, and mounted it crooked over the hole.
What kind of wood is this ?
Hello. Love your video. I need some advise. I built a cabinet using ordinary plywood, about 1/3 inch thick. It was just a big box. No shelves or anything inside. I used ordinary nails to hold them together. I used a hinge on one side to serve as the door. But over time, the sides began to curve or bend. Is there a type of wood I could use that doesnt bend or curve over time? Thanks.🙂
The thinner the plywood the more tendency it has to bend. I would suggest a good quality 3/4" plywood for your next project. Thanks, Wes
I know this is red oak. Is this cabinet grade plywood or true oak lumber? Will plywood deliver a good finish as well?
Is the thickness of the panel less than the thickness of the rails and stiles?
Yes, the panel is only 5/8" thick. Thanks for watching, Wes
Thank you Wes. If you were building a standard shaker door would also use the router setup or would use the table saw? I got rid of my big Unisaw and my dado set to downsize and I am not convinced the contractor saw will do well with the dado set but I enjoy making cabinets and doors and the router setup might be my best option.
Hi Aaron...we have a video showing exactly what you are looking for:
th-cam.com/video/wvr68ClpuU4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for your comment, we appreciate the visit. Wes
Hi, I'd like to know the name of the router bit you are using when you were making your stiles and rails (3:32) Nice and helpful video 👍
Hi Jade...the stile and rail set used for this door is referred to as a "round over stile and rail set" which is available on Amazon. Thanks for watching. Wes
What are the names of the router bits used to make the door.
What thickness wood are you using?
I used 13/16" solid oak. Thanks for watching, Wes
Space balls???
Yes...space balls. Thanks, Wes
I’m trying to match the profile of an existing drawer front. Is there an easy way to do that? Or what would be the best way to accomplish this. Thank you
Hi... that is a hard question to answer without seeing the drawer face. I assume by your question, you are referring to the edge detail. I suggest trying to match a router bit to the profile. Hope this helps. Wes
How can I make a cheap frame?
Hi Wes, I really enjoy your videos
I would like to know why you ran the raised panel door through the wide belt sander at an angle and not square?
Hi John...running at an angle gives a smoother pass through the sander and helps make the belts last longer. This is a trick taught to me by a wide belt sales rep years ago. Thanks for watching. Wes
Hi, Sir,
What is space ball? Where is to buy it?
Thanks
Space balls are to create a space in the construction of a frame and panel door. You can purchase them on Amazon. Thanks for watching, Wes
Wes I loved the video, very helpful. What was the little round sander you used on the contour of the panels after you routed the edges?
It was my 5" palm sander. Thanks for watching, Wes
wes - looks like in your door glue-ups you are using shop fox 24 inch bar clamps that have a very deep throat depth (4+ inches)....the heavy duty bessey have a shallower throat depth (like 3.5 inches). does the added depth actually help, or would the bessey clamps do the trick just as well?
Hi...in my opinion the added depth really helps for clamps placement. Thanks for watching. Wes
would like to build cafe doors, but, with raised panels seen on both sides. I thought of using 1 1/2" stock or 5/4" with back cutter used on one side & removed for the other side. Would this work ? Any suggestions would help as I am a novice, thank you in advance.
I have only made raised panel cafe doors one time and I just made 5/8" thick raised panel doors and glued them up back to back. It worked great for me. I hope this helps! Thanks, Wes
Thanks for the video. I am just starting out with benchtop router table and s4s from store. The s4s is not super straight, typically exhibiting a minor cup or bow. I don't have a jointer or planer. My question is should I go ahead with this mindset and continue creating these doors or is it absolutely required to get a benchtop jointer and planer? My biggest reason not getting them is that I don't want the thickness to be smaller the 3/4" stock for the doors. I also experienced kickback from the raised panel bit with backcutter on the cross grain cut and wasn't sure if that was purely due to a slight warp of the panel or due to white oak hardness.
Using straight and flat stock is crucial for successful door construction. Your kick back problem could be caused by both white oak hardness and unevenness in your board. Starting with a smaller cut and making progressively larger cuts might help. Thanks, Wes
I’ve been a porch and deck builder 34 years and just got curious about furniture- no way does everyone have a sander like that😂, how much do those cost?
You are right, not everyone has one. The sanding can be done one at a time...just more work. Thanks for watching. Wes
You don't need a drum sander this size unless you are doing exterior/interior doors or large panel. Get a supermax or jet for between 1500 and 2000. They work perfect. However, you WILL need to buy a dust collector to use with a drum sander (should have one anyway for the router table) it will clog up quickly and not work.
Does anyone know the name of the router bits used? I can't find them.
GREAT video by the way. I really appreciate the detailed info!!
Raymond...the router bits used in this video are shown in the description. It is a direct link to Amazon where you can purchase them. Thanks, Wes
How much space to you leave for contraction and expansion for the panel? I’ve tried following Freud tool’s directions for expansion, etc.. and couldn’t get the space balls to fit on both sides...
The panel is 1/4" smaller than the opening allowing room for space balls on both sides. Thanks for watching, Wes
Darrel Gray
Wes, great video as always!! Could you tell me the name and model number of the clamps you use on the router. Thanks
They are on Amazon...Shop Fox Heavy Duty long reach bar clamps D2916. Thanks for watching. Wes
How does the D2916 w/ 12” capacity work for a 14” wide door frame?
Was the stock thickness for the styles and rails the same as the panel? Or was it a 1/4 inch less?
When I had my cabinet shop, I used 5/8 inch to accommodate for the off set. The offset will depend on the bit set you have. The first panels I ever made were done by running the center panel at a diagonal with the saw blade. I don't recommend doing this but it is possible.
Please check the description for size and thickness of the panel. Thanks for watching. Wes
👍💯
Thank you !!
boy, did I learn something; I,m wondering if you have produced a book on cabinets and cabinet doors; I would love to buy it-if you have such a book kindly reply to my email along with purchasing instructions; thank you, PATRICK.P
Why is is called a "Raised Panel" door if the panel is not raised above the height of the frame......Not really a raised panel door.....solid panel door...describes it accurately....seems to me.....
The center of the panel is raised from the edges that go into the stile and rail. The face f the panel is level with the frame of the door which is typical of all raised panel construction. Thanks for watching, Wes
What can I build with 4 2x4?
I pay you 300$ for the wide belt sander.
Great video BUT You don't show the router bits you are using.
Would look so much more professional if the your had mitered the corners of the frame and not expose end grain.
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