Nice experience. Like for sure. Advice : for the panel use better (more expensive) bit with 4 cutting sides, not two. Then maximum two passes will make nice smooth finish and rotor speed 5000 max.
You should make the panel width about 1/8" less than the length of the rail to allow for seasonal expansion. Also, it's a good idea to move your random orbit sander more slowly to reduce the swirls effect.
I can remember the first time I tried my hand at a raised panel. I had no idea what I was doing and I was armed with a PC 7518 and a shiny new Freud Ogee bit. My test piece: hickory-pecan! I didn't know to take light passes and about 2" into hogging all of this super-hard material out I tripped the circuit breaker my router was plugged into! I then learned to take lighter passes! I stopped by the video to see if you had any different insight or techniques. I was intrigued with the technique of not cutting the stiles until after the glue-up. I had never done that before and find that an interesting take. I might try it sometime. Cheers!
Just subtract 3 .75" off the width of your door to get the length of the rails and same with the length of the panel subtract 3.75" off the length of the door
Im about to attempt my first raised panel with my router table. Its the older aluminum table top. Im concerned that it will scratch the wood. Im going to try paste wax i think. Maybe it will slide without scraping the wood. Great video!!
Thanks! The wax is a good idea, but also check the edges and screw heads to make sure there are no burs. You may still get some scratches but they should sand right out.
your panel width is the same dimension as the tail length, leaving no room for expansion? how did that work out? it’s been a year, so the door has gone threw enough hot cold seasons to exercise movement in the width. did it blow out the stiles? it’s it still looking good ?
Hey Gino! The door still looks great. The key is that the rails have about a 1/16" gap on either end. That's enough space for a panel this size to move. Thanks for catching that, though!
What router are you using in the raised panel bit on the mocked up table? Did you just mount the router to the bottom of the plywood? No lift cut out or anything? I want to run specifically a raised panel but. Your router looks to be the Triton?
It would be about 1/8" proud if your panel is 3/4" thick. You'd also need to take Usually a few more passes to get the panel tongue to the proper thickness. if I don't use the back cutter I reduce the thickness to 5/8", but I like my panels flush with the frame.
Tape is probably faster and easier to remove, but I like that I can fill the gaps with the glue to keep things stable. Cleaning up the hot melt is a pain in the butt.
Once I move the router table inside, I'll upgrade the whole thing, including dust collection. Most of the time it's not an issue, but damn that panel bit makes a mess! 😂
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Great tip on leaving the stiles long and then cutting them after glue up.
Been doing it that way fir years. I think I learned it from Fine Woodworking!
Nice experience. Like for sure.
Advice : for the panel use better (more expensive) bit with 4 cutting sides, not two. Then maximum two passes will make nice smooth finish and rotor speed 5000 max.
Good idea!
Great video! Thank you for sharing. I learned alot. Bill
Thanks for watching!
You should make the panel width about 1/8" less than the length of the rail to allow for seasonal expansion.
Also, it's a good idea to move your random orbit sander more slowly to reduce the swirls effect.
I can remember the first time I tried my hand at a raised panel. I had no idea what I was doing and I was armed with a PC 7518 and a shiny new Freud Ogee bit. My test piece: hickory-pecan! I didn't know to take light passes and about 2" into hogging all of this super-hard material out I tripped the circuit breaker my router was plugged into! I then learned to take lighter passes! I stopped by the video to see if you had any different insight or techniques. I was intrigued with the technique of not cutting the stiles until after the glue-up. I had never done that before and find that an interesting take. I might try it sometime. Cheers!
Yikes! Live and learn. 😂
Great info !thank you !
Glad you enjoyed it! 👷♂️
Hola, muy lindo su trabajo, muchas gracias por compartir su conocimiento, un saludo de entre ríos Argentina
Thank you so much for your kind words. I just hope your English is better than my Spanish! 😅
@@TheTrullGallery un saludo muy grande, ☺️☺️gracias
Just subtract 3 .75" off the width of your door to get the length of the rails and same with the length of the panel subtract 3.75" off the length of the door
Im about to attempt my first raised panel with my router table. Its the older aluminum table top. Im concerned that it will scratch the wood. Im going to try paste wax i think. Maybe it will slide without scraping the wood. Great video!!
Thanks! The wax is a good idea, but also check the edges and screw heads to make sure there are no burs. You may still get some scratches but they should sand right out.
@@TheTrullGallery I'll give it a try!
your panel width is the same dimension as the tail length, leaving no room for expansion?
how did that work out?
it’s been a year, so the door has gone threw enough hot cold seasons to exercise movement in the width. did it blow out the stiles?
it’s it still looking good ?
Hey Gino! The door still looks great. The key is that the rails have about a 1/16" gap on either end. That's enough space for a panel this size to move. Thanks for catching that, though!
What router are you using in the raised panel bit on the mocked up table? Did you just mount the router to the bottom of the plywood? No lift cut out or anything?
I want to run specifically a raised panel but. Your router looks to be the Triton?
I use a Triton 3 HP router. I replaced its base with a Rockler router plate.
Sweet! I am eye balling this router. Looks sweet!!@@TheTrullGallery
@garrettp.5018 it's great, especially for a router table. Disconnect the spring & drill an extra hole in the plate, and you've got a built-in lift!
@@TheTrullGalleryYou should do a video on how to do that.
@ST-0311 Good idea! I'll look at that once my arm heals up (recovering from a torn tendon).
If your rails and styles are 3/4” what thickness the panel should be so the front can be flush, panel and frame.
I usually run my panels at 5/8" or a hair thinner. Unless I'm using a back cutter, then I leave them at 3/4".
but without the backcutter on the panel bit the panel front would be hight than the frame correct??
It would be about 1/8" proud if your panel is 3/4" thick. You'd also need to take Usually a few more passes to get the panel tongue to the proper thickness. if I don't use the back cutter I reduce the thickness to 5/8", but I like my panels flush with the frame.
👍👍
Good lessons, and investment cheaper than shapers, but size of router its what you missed out, more can you make big doors with a router.
Now just repeat 20-30 more times and you got a small kitchen
Gotta start somewhere! 😆
I find it easier to use double sided tape in place of hot glue.
Tape is probably faster and easier to remove, but I like that I can fill the gaps with the glue to keep things stable. Cleaning up the hot melt is a pain in the butt.
could clean off the excess wet glue with a chisel, not a rag, and then it wouldn't be forced into the pores
I do that with open grain woods. This was maple, and it was being painted, so I wasn't too concerned. Good reminder, though!
You need dust collection on router table
Once I move the router table inside, I'll upgrade the whole thing, including dust collection. Most of the time it's not an issue, but damn that panel bit makes a mess! 😂