just to give you a health advice , when dealing with brakes and asbestos , use equall parts water dishsoap and glycol to wash off with and contain the dust , its what asbestos workers found best to use
@@mcqueenfanman yep, short shoe is the leading, long is trailing. Dad was a professional mechanic, went to Lincoln Tech, in the 70s and taught me drum brakes in the 80s/90s.
I don’t know why he doesn’t use brake tools either. Learn to use them. They work quite well and it beats having a brake spring cut you. I literally find those tools cheap at flea markets and second hand stores. I even sent him a few.
@@mcqueenfanman Agreed, a decent set of brake pliers or tools makes things super smooth. Never understood why people insist on using screwdrivers and pliers to do it.
@@lilorbielilorbie2496 Probably not, I was just being facetious. El Camino, the worst design compromise of all times. Not a good car and a lousy pickup truck. However, there is a big cult that loves 'em!
I love it when Kevin hops in the car and says "lets go for a ride", that seems to be the que for something to (nearly) always go wrong! another cracking video, thank you all!
A little tip for old engines as long as you have a timing light: Hook up the timing light and look at the marks - rev the engine and let it decelerate while watching the marks - they shouldn't change much at all (less than 3 degrees, the less the better). If they move more than 3 degrees, your timing chain is loose - if they move upwards of 5 degrees, maybe ought to replace it....soon (especially if you have any "strange" noise when accelerating / decelerating). This, of course, assumes that any vacuum advance and manual advance (distributor weights, for example) are plugged / removed. You can also test the chain manually if you have easy access to the crank bolt. Open the distributor cap and note - exactly - where the rotor is pointing. Take a wrench and SLOWLY turn the crank back and forth - noting the amount that the crank turns before there is any movement of the distributor rotor. Once again, the less movement, the better. So, why all this? You'll find more than a few old engines out there that are parked because the timing chain needs to be replaced. At times, owners will park the vehicle not knowing that it's the timing chain - all they'll know is "it just never runs right no matter what I do". Yep...cause a bad chain - well, the engine is rarely properly timed - might rev up really great, but then pop like hell on deceleration...... Edit: I should be more clear about 3 degrees, etc. If your standard timing at idle is say, 6 btdc, you'll see the timing change to more and less than 6btdc (usually a little more on the accel side than the decel side). As long as your timing doesn't change more than 3 degrees - more than 9 or less than 3 btdc - you're generally fine. 3 degrees meaning you'll see, on average, a 6 degree "swing". Watch it, of course, if you see more than 3 degrees in either direction and certainly be concerned if you see 5 or more.
@@dm1123751 True enough, although the tip applies to most engines. Timing gears wear too....BUT....odds are the engine would be in a landfill / recycled or rebuilt far before any wear would be noticeable. MAYBE...if you run them dry.....lol
Your very right . I've bought more than a few that needed timing chains replaced. I bought a Eagle and the owner said that he couldn't get it to run right. I ended up replacing the timing chain and cam .
@David B You are absolutely spot on with your advice. The timing gears in these here engines suck. When they go, it'll wipe the teeth clean off from them. I'd replace them pretty quick
@@waynedavis7245 Sometimes they're pretty obvious - enough slack to get noisy. Strange front engine clatter on accel / decel and runs "weird" - timing chain is a likely culprit.
im liking this channel more with every video i watch. the fact that Kevin is a Ford guy instead of a Ford Basher (like most other channels) is REALLY refreshing. and im a Ford guy in the UK!
Your calm demeanor and exemplary patience make every video you do so very worthwhile to watch. I don't think that there is another channel out there that I could watch the whole thing, from beginning to the end on just repairing drum brakes, but I would watch yours. Grant job, love every one of your videos, and I always look forward to more.
I've got a 94 Chevy K1500 and a 94 Chevy C3500HD (8ft bed). These trucks from the 70s through 1998 are excellent work trucks. Very dependable and easy to fix. I had my 94 sitting in my barn for 3 years. Changed oil, drained fuel lines, siphoned out gas, filled up new gas, and reinstalled air cleaner assembly and she fired right up.
It's always a great day when Junkyard Digs uploads a new video. I'm a Ford guy but I like these old Chevy trucks too and it is nice seeing them get another shot at life
I've been working at a body shop for a bit now and extra tips I learned was if you're painting the door, it's better to take off the mirror and belt molding (the trim at the bottom of the window) for a better paint job in the end. The mirror can get in the way, and if you're unlucky, the clear coat could stick in that gap between the door and the belt molding
@Fire tablet I think you may have replied to the wrong comment, not trying to be rude here but your info doesn't seem to line up with the content of the original comment.
@@uenragedbro This is why I'll never let someone borrow my car again. My ex let her brother drive my car and he ended up running from the police and tore my shit up. I was pissed asf, especially when I found out he tried hiding my car at a car wash
I had a 1970 Nova with a 250 and 3-speed manual. It ran good even with low compression. It was peppy and got about 22mpg. Only thing was that Rochester Monojet. That thing didn't want to run right in colder weather below 45° until the engine was fully warmed up to operating temp. If you tried to demand too much throttle, that thing would fall flat on its face and bog long and hard! Not sure if the low compression was helping that or not but I was really tempted to rebuild that motor instead of put in a small block V8.
I just love hearing an old Chevy 6 come back to life. When you set the timing and it smoothed out, it warmed my heart. That is one nice truck. If it was a stick, I'd really be wishing I could get it. ( probably sold a long time ago now)
Kevin: As a fellow Iowan I'm so proud of what you, Luke, Mook, Angus and everyone else has done with your channels. I'm sitting here in Woodward, sick as a dog, but my day is better watching you guys rescue the cars and trucks guys like me drove back in the day. I always learn something, so even old dogs learn new tricks! LOL. Stop by sometime and I'll buy you a Blue Yummie, or Old Mill. 😆 Great job.
Sorry had to add some more tips to this Video, first thing is the heavy metal rod that holds the one shoe to the backing plate should always go on first, the smaller spring goes to it's outside to help hold the bigger rod in place, I also just noticed that you put the shoes themselves on backwards, each wheel will have one shoe longer then the other, the long shoe Always goes on the rear side of the hub, as for the tools, if you buy the junk ones from the freight place, you will fight with them, a good set of brake tools makes life so much easier, the set you have doesn't look to bad, you should try them, your fingers will thank you.
The thick part of the spring on the self adjuster shouldn’t go above the star wheel or behind the brake lever, if I remember correctly. It will interfere with the movement of the adjusting lever and/or the star wheel.
Awesome to see an old 6 cylinder pickup on the road again. I think that accelerator pump is inside the bowl like on a Carter carb for the ford 300 and 240
LOL- when you realized you forgot the shoe guide, I SO felt your pain! I have done that so many times myself! Great video, Kevin, we all really appreciate your time and especially your hands on knowledge :)
That big bolt that the springs attach to is called an anchor pin and the plate that goes over it behind the springs is the anchor washer, sometimes called an anchor plate (in the south where you are?)
I’m not likely going to need to replace brakes on an old Chevy, but there is someone out there who will be grateful for this video. I enjoyed watching it too.
The best points refresh tool I've ever had was el-cheapo paper nail files. Basically is just a piece of cardboard with fine (ish) sandpaper glued in a handy format. I keep an old ten-pack in a zip bag in my toolbox. Great to refresh a pair of carboned-up sparkilators as well.
What I was thinking. They are called emery boards, find them in the cosmetics section at Walmart. And likewise with Kevin, I have never had good luck with the points files.
Always nice when Kevin teaches car technology, thumbs up for you Kevin, I have been a car mechanic myself for 18 years and am happy with your explanation of work, no nonsense stories. Nice truck that C10, too bad I live so far away. Greetings from the Netherlands.
Had a 69 C15 ( leaf spring rear ) that was 3 on the tree that I swapped out for TH350. Fun little project. Went with the aluminum eBay rad too. As I do with most vehicles.
I really like Kevin's content. He does a great job talking through what he is doing. I've never had a Automotive class so I'm learning a lot about cars from his channel. Plus, Mook is a hoot! 😄
I hope u see my comment",my trick before wire brushing crap off brake shields",Spary and Wet it down with carb fluid inwhich makes it safer for ur lungs.
Mook is definitely the key ingredient to a happy relationship 😂 being silly and having fun is definitely one of the main reasons me and my wife are still laughing after nearly 20 years together, great to watch.
Angus! It's been a minute! Heck, and yeah Kevin, there are 9 billion videos out here on doing drum brakes, but yours are the best to watch because you patiently explain everything in simple layman terms and you're not afraid of repeating yourself from older videos you did where you explained what the components of something are and how they function. So keep it up!
The carburetor might be missing the linkage to the accelerator pump, it looks similar to corvair carbs which have a plunger type accelerator pump. And I loved that video on the barn find corvair cause it gave me an itch to finish getting my grandfathers corvair running plus there is so much history behind the corvairs.
Love this truck. My grandpa had one. We went EVERYWHERE in it. His was a 3 on the 🌳. I'm 46 and that was some of my best childhood memories. Thank you for this video.😊😔
Kevin, you put the brake shoes on backwards. The shoes are different lengths of braking material for a reason. To reduce pedal pressure the shoes are loose to allow them to rotate a limited amount with the wheel. The brake shoe movement is needed for the semi self-energizing design. The front (smaller shoe) applies braking force to the bottom of the big brake shoe while the wheel cylinder applies braking force to the upper end. The brakes you pulled off of Mook's Nova were backwards too, that's why they were worn so differently.
@@loose-arrow-garage nope. That's low temp greae. Brake lube for brakes. White lithium for like the parking cable if it's sticky or something like that.
Hey Kevin, I wouldn't bother with PV Blaster or heat for those fittings on the hoses. You just need two hammers, one heavier than the other. You take the heavier hammer and hold it on one side of the nut as a kind of anvil. Then you use the other one to hammer in the opposite side of the nut. You may have to repeat that for the other side's of the nut, but that usually cracks them loose pretty quick and makes them super easy to turn too.
Kevin, Thanks for the detailed explanation of a brake job, for the 500th time. It really helps us to understand what each part of the components work. The more I learn the more I realize, I AIN'T DOING MY OWN BRAKES! I am here for the laffs and Mook-Cam.
I learned some things on drum brakes and it will be very helpful with my '75 Firebird and my '72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4. Really enjoyed watching you revive this great truck and give it new life! Props man!
Tools, tricks, and methods never get old. More carb diagnosis and correction is always welcome. Love it, you're not being repetitive - it's called "reinforcing"!
The other day I bought a quad for real cheap, I knew it wasn't gonna start, but only after 2 days I got it to fire, I learnt quite a few tricks from your videos and some others from a mate. Thanks!
Keep trans fluid in the 'glide and it will outlive you! change the trans fluid and filter and the oil... and for crying out loud put a kit in the carb! You guys are the bomb!
Thank you so much, my boyfriend has a 72 c10 that was his fathers, his father passed away in 07 and it’s sat since then And we’re finally getting to it all these years later and this is going to help us a lot ❤
Your description on how to get an engine running was spot on. However, and this is a personal opinion, I wish you would shoot a gas/oil mixture down the carb instead of brake clean. It would give the cylinders a little lube on startup. Again, just a personal opinion. BTW, love the revivals.
Now I don't have any use for what you explain in this vid while wrenching (at least yet or at this time, I plan on buying some old cars when I have financial capacity), but I really enjoy watching it, and you have the teaching voice that makes it really easy to follow what you are doing, and thuss be able to do the same
Mook and yourself should offer a 10 minute safety video regarding do and do not when working on starting engines. You tucked in those draw strings for a reason and some in a hurry could have missed the point or that open fan blade. Emergency Rooms suck and fingers don't grow back. Both of you do awesome content!
Nice tutorial on drum brakes. Your carb does have an accelerator pump and it needs a new one in its rebuild. It also has a choke and an air cleaner and these things work together, especially on small carburators.
Kevin, after hundreds of those brake jobs, I have to say that was the BEST drum brake tutorial video I have ever seen. That would have helped me when I was a teenager….but there was no internet then!
I am SO glad you washed this before you worked on it. It's one of my OCD's when you get a hold of one of the revivals. 😁Drives me nuts. Such a sweet truck! I hope whoever gets it takes care of it.
I'll just add something about brake hoses - check inside of them before fitting. It's only happened a couple of times, but the insides of the metal fittings weren't machined. Literally a solid metal slug. When it happens you'll be wondering why it doesn't let any fluid through when trying to bleed them!
Loved this episode. My brother and I learned to drive on my dad’s stepside ‘68 C20 with a 292, (also on the ‘52 Ford tractor, but that was work) bombing around the back fields, learning to fishtail it on wet grass and regain control. You know - farm kid stuff. Living in L.A. now, you don’t see a lot of ‘em. I’d love to find one someday and bring it back to life.
I really appreciate how you show exactly what you are doing and explain what it does. You are getting to be a good teacher. Also, that wire you put from the battery to the coil, that is how people used to steal cars, also known as "hotwiring" a car. Very good reason to find a way to lock your hood!
Haven’t clicked that fast in a while, love y’all’s content, hits close to home for me, I come from a mechanic family, so it’s nice to see people who appreciate older vehicles. Just bought my very first classic car, 1957 Ford Fairlane. Love y’all’s videos!
Hello Kevin, i just started watching your videos. Love them, and as a mechanic who has worked at Ford, done small engine repair, and now into the powersports industry i can wholeheartedly support these videos. Alot of information that you put out is on par with professionals but with a more basic means of attaining that goal. Knowledge goes a long ways.
i always enjoy another Chevy being saved as well as watching another in the seemingly endless number of brake jobs... Great work, as always.. If I had the bucks, I'd take this (or some other truck) off your hands
That is a heavy half. The "Heavy 1/2" was essentially a tow package with 6 Lug hubs, stiffer springs, and Tow mirrors on both sides (most trucks of this Era only had a driver side mirror). Idk if it also came with a posi rear but it could have been optioned separately.
Great video! I know you hate doing brakes but the tips on how to do things step by step and one at a time are always needed. Thanks for the video! Keep up the great work! Also - always happy to see Angus drop in. You guys rock!
I don't hate them too much, it's just that we do them so often I hate whole videos being based around us doing brake jobs over and over and over 😂 Pretty much anything will start and drive with very little effort, but that only takes up the first 16 minutes of a video, The meat and potatoes is all the tedious stuff afterwards
Mook always makes me laugh. Kevin always makes me laugh. My kinda people! Always love the content. When my phone tells me about a new episode, I pull it up on the big screen in the garage and turn up the sound bar!
Auto shop 101 loving it Kevin the only thing missing ,is a few angry moments ,I would also suggest using line wrenches instead of open wrenches on Brake and fuel lines lines
Great video. that truck reminds me of my first vehicle a 1972 Chevy C10 with a 250 CID straight six that I bought back in 1992 for $775.00. I knew the engine in and out, taking it apart and putting back together many times. One time I set to points and set the ignition timing in the dark on the side of the road with just a match book cover and feeling the points to set the timing on no. 1 cylinder at TDC. If you have this truck for sale still I have the money!
I like how simplistic you make everything sound! I’m not a mechanical inclined person but whatever part it is I need I’ll know just enough what to research but as Far as replacing the part Nope not a clue when it comes to the engine but you make it so simplistic I could do it by watching a couple of your vids!
Kevin, the shoe with the long lining is the secondary, in other words it installs to the rear, the shorter lining goes on the front, if you put them in backward your brakes will be excessively "grabby" or may even skid the wheel with light brake pedal input, just an FYI so yer not screwing with adjustment when you drive it and eat steering wheel first time ya hit the brakes
Oh yeah, been turnin wrenches most of my 57 years on the planet, hell when I first started as a young kid the new cars still had points distributors, I was 10 years old when I did my first paid job for a neighbor, just happened to be rear drum brakes on a 68 Plymouth Sattelite, now days when I'm driving down the road I see things like, oh he's gonna lose that muffler or I wonder if she knows that tires nearly flat, sometimes I think it's a lil bit of a curse the car gods put on me, lmao!
I really appreciate you saved the truck i love Chevy's old trucks i love old-fashioned trucks! I wish they came back again! i wish they made the old trucks again Greetings from Lousiana! I love America 🇺🇲 !!!!!
Traditional points (and relay contact) files are meant to just "burnish" the points contacts, they really aren't supposed to aggressively file down the contacts. Points are usually plated, and filing off the plating will cause them to get dirty much faster. Of course with old very corroded points you have to remove all the corrosion, so you have no other choice but to file or sand.
Kevin I can tell you that inline 6 is not the 292, as the motor mounts are not offset like they would be for a 292 inline 6. So it is probably is the slightly smaller inline six, which I forget the size too. But two things you might want to do, that will keep that engine running. Replace the cam shaft & lifters, and update the motor mounts. As those inline 6’s was seriously bad about dropping the cam shaft onto the #1 push rod snapping it and busting the block. And those 3 piece motor mounts are a bear to find when they break.
32:18 and 33:15 if you want to avoid brake dust in the air when disassembling or wire brushing the backing plate, feel free to keep a garden hose or even a spray bottle full of water near by, and soak it down before making dust/releasing it into the air. Just a safety thing i learned in both high school shop class, and my college automotive technician course! Of course brake cleaner works too, but that stuff can be expensive!
I LOVE the "push button" start, just like my '20 Blazer! Did you adjust the "dwell" for those points? If they are set too close, the would definitely cause stalling. Also, don't forget a TINY bit of high temp grease on the distributor cam! That dry "rubbing block" will cause the point gap to narrow VERY quickly! The video was GREAT, especially the tutorial for the drum breaks. THANK YOU!
I currently own a 69 SWB Chevy C10 with factory wood bed. When I was in high school, I had a 77 GMC Sierra Classic SWB. Early on, I purchased aftermarket hood braces for the hood buckling.
Hey Kevin and mook since I started watching your videos I've really enjoyed watching you I thought your channel would be boring like the others I've watched but you two bring life to this channel there's never a dull moment you both bring it wonderful job keep up the great work
Love the Content! Love the Cars! Love the Channel! Plus Mook is also adorable🤗🥰Nice Work Kevin and Mook- You are Absolutely Smashing It! Can't wait for Mook's Nova Part 3!... PEACE✌
Thanks for watching!! Check out our merch on www.junkyarddigs.com/
LMC truck is way way affordable
I got to admit I never ever thought I'd again have pinto envy
I actually listened to this video with my Raycon that I bought using the code from the last time they sponsored a video.
just to give you a health advice , when dealing with brakes and asbestos , use equall parts water dishsoap and glycol to wash off with and contain the dust , its what asbestos workers found best to use
What happened to the farm that had the lumina z34 chilling in the barn?
I really like Kevin's content.
Jast wow
Well well, thats something I would've said
👍
Nice
I like these videos and everything related to cars👍
Love Kevin’s videos. But they are even more fun to watch with Mook in them. She is one of a kind
But is Mook the GF, Friend, Sister, neighbor….🤷🏻♂️
Kevin, there may be a ton of videos on doing drum brakes, but none as calm, clear and concise. Loved this.
He put the front brake shoes on backwards. Bigs to the back is what our shop teacher always said.
@@mcqueenfanman You are correct.
@@mcqueenfanman yep, short shoe is the leading, long is trailing. Dad was a professional mechanic, went to Lincoln Tech, in the 70s and taught me drum brakes in the 80s/90s.
I don’t know why he doesn’t use brake tools either. Learn to use them. They work quite well and it beats having a brake spring cut you. I literally find those tools cheap at flea markets and second hand stores. I even sent him a few.
@@mcqueenfanman Agreed, a decent set of brake pliers or tools makes things super smooth. Never understood why people insist on using screwdrivers and pliers to do it.
I just want to say, thanks for being 100% authentic. I love watching you guys just being yourselves. What you see is what you get. Love it
“And try to flip to make some money”
*Words I never thought would come out of Kevin’s mouth* 😂
It's a Chevy, he's a Ford guy.
Yeah, and he turned down an El Camino sitting right next to it. What the hell is wrong with them?
@@geoffmorgan6059 Maybe the El Camino wasn't for sale.?
@@drewping2002 Thats why the power surprised him, he wasent used to it.
@@lilorbielilorbie2496 Probably not, I was just being facetious. El Camino, the worst design compromise of all times. Not a good car and a lousy pickup truck. However, there is a big cult that loves 'em!
I love it when Kevin hops in the car and says "lets go for a ride", that seems to be the que for something to (nearly) always go wrong! another cracking video, thank you all!
A little tip for old engines as long as you have a timing light: Hook up the timing light and look at the marks - rev the engine and let it decelerate while watching the marks - they shouldn't change much at all (less than 3 degrees, the less the better). If they move more than 3 degrees, your timing chain is loose - if they move upwards of 5 degrees, maybe ought to replace it....soon (especially if you have any "strange" noise when accelerating / decelerating). This, of course, assumes that any vacuum advance and manual advance (distributor weights, for example) are plugged / removed.
You can also test the chain manually if you have easy access to the crank bolt. Open the distributor cap and note - exactly - where the rotor is pointing. Take a wrench and SLOWLY turn the crank back and forth - noting the amount that the crank turns before there is any movement of the distributor rotor. Once again, the less movement, the better.
So, why all this? You'll find more than a few old engines out there that are parked because the timing chain needs to be replaced. At times, owners will park the vehicle not knowing that it's the timing chain - all they'll know is "it just never runs right no matter what I do". Yep...cause a bad chain - well, the engine is rarely properly timed - might rev up really great, but then pop like hell on deceleration......
Edit: I should be more clear about 3 degrees, etc. If your standard timing at idle is say, 6 btdc, you'll see the timing change to more and less than 6btdc (usually a little more on the accel side than the decel side). As long as your timing doesn't change more than 3 degrees - more than 9 or less than 3 btdc - you're generally fine. 3 degrees meaning you'll see, on average, a 6 degree "swing". Watch it, of course, if you see more than 3 degrees in either direction and certainly be concerned if you see 5 or more.
That engine has timing gears instead of a chain
@@dm1123751 True enough, although the tip applies to most engines. Timing gears wear too....BUT....odds are the engine would be in a landfill / recycled or rebuilt far before any wear would be noticeable. MAYBE...if you run them dry.....lol
Your very right . I've bought more than a few that needed timing chains replaced. I bought a Eagle and the owner said that he couldn't get it to run right. I ended up replacing the timing chain and cam .
@David B You are absolutely spot on with your advice. The timing gears in these here engines suck. When they go, it'll wipe the teeth clean off from them. I'd replace them pretty quick
@@waynedavis7245 Sometimes they're pretty obvious - enough slack to get noisy. Strange front engine clatter on accel / decel and runs "weird" - timing chain is a likely culprit.
Good looking truck. Don’t know my Chevy bodies well, but that’s easily my favorite grille/headlight combo for the Chevy years.
Mook's personality is pretty much the definition of letting the intrusive thoughts win and I'm all for it! ❤️
She is super annoying
@@oliverharvey3792L take
@oliverharvey3792 ahhh she's got nothing but praise for you though, such a shame
im liking this channel more with every video i watch. the fact that Kevin is a Ford guy instead of a Ford Basher (like most other channels) is REALLY refreshing. and im a Ford guy in the UK!
Your calm demeanor and exemplary patience make every video you do so very worthwhile to watch. I don't think that there is another channel out there that I could watch the whole thing, from beginning to the end on just repairing drum brakes, but I would watch yours.
Grant job, love every one of your videos, and I always look forward to more.
Thank you sir! Glad to hear I can make even the most boring things watchable
I've got a 94 Chevy K1500 and a 94 Chevy C3500HD (8ft bed). These trucks from the 70s through 1998 are excellent work trucks. Very dependable and easy to fix.
I had my 94 sitting in my barn for 3 years. Changed oil, drained fuel lines, siphoned out gas, filled up new gas, and reinstalled air cleaner assembly and she fired right up.
It's always a great day when Junkyard Digs uploads a new video. I'm a Ford guy but I like these old Chevy trucks too and it is nice seeing them get another shot at life
I've been working at a body shop for a bit now and extra tips I learned was if you're painting the door, it's better to take off the mirror and belt molding (the trim at the bottom of the window) for a better paint job in the end. The mirror can get in the way, and if you're unlucky, the clear coat could stick in that gap between the door and the belt molding
@Fire tablet I think you may have replied to the wrong comment, not trying to be rude here but your info doesn't seem to line up with the content of the original comment.
@@uenragedbro This is why I'll never let someone borrow my car again. My ex let her brother drive my car and he ended up running from the police and tore my shit up. I was pissed asf, especially when I found out he tried hiding my car at a car wash
@firetablet1995 Are you ok, man?
@@redbeard6220 I have a red beard too! Sorry I just noticed your username, at least it was somewhat RELEVANT
I had a 1970 Nova with a 250 and 3-speed manual. It ran good even with low compression. It was peppy and got about 22mpg. Only thing was that Rochester Monojet. That thing didn't want to run right in colder weather below 45° until the engine was fully warmed up to operating temp. If you tried to demand too much throttle, that thing would fall flat on its face and bog long and hard! Not sure if the low compression was helping that or not but I was really tempted to rebuild that motor instead of put in a small block V8.
I just love hearing an old Chevy 6 come back to life. When you set the timing and it smoothed out, it warmed my heart. That is one nice truck. If it was a stick, I'd really be wishing I could get it. ( probably sold a long time ago now)
Kevin:
As a fellow Iowan I'm so proud of what you, Luke, Mook, Angus and everyone else has done with your channels. I'm sitting here in Woodward, sick as a dog, but my day is better watching you guys rescue the cars and trucks guys like me drove back in the day. I always learn something, so even old dogs learn new tricks! LOL.
Stop by sometime and I'll buy you a Blue Yummie, or Old Mill. 😆
Great job.
Hope your feeling better these days.
Sorry had to add some more tips to this Video, first thing is the heavy metal rod that holds the one shoe to the backing plate should always go on first, the smaller spring goes to it's outside to help hold the bigger rod in place, I also just noticed that you put the shoes themselves on backwards, each wheel will have one shoe longer then the other, the long shoe Always goes on the rear side of the hub, as for the tools, if you buy the junk ones from the freight place, you will fight with them, a good set of brake tools makes life so much easier, the set you have doesn't look to bad, you should try them, your fingers will thank you.
The thick part of the spring on the self adjuster shouldn’t go above the star wheel or behind the brake lever, if I remember correctly. It will interfere with the movement of the adjusting lever and/or the star wheel.
Awesome to see an old 6 cylinder pickup on the road again. I think that accelerator pump is inside the bowl like on a Carter carb for the ford 300 and 240
LOL- when you realized you forgot the shoe guide, I SO felt your pain! I have done that so many times myself! Great video, Kevin, we all really appreciate your time and especially your hands on knowledge :)
That big bolt that the springs attach to is called an anchor pin and the plate that goes over it behind the springs is the anchor washer, sometimes called an anchor plate (in the south where you are?)
I’m not likely going to need to replace brakes on an old Chevy, but there is someone out there who will be grateful for this video. I enjoyed watching it too.
Fastest notification I’ve ever clicked on
I know
I didn't even have notifications on
Ur pfp is cute
Same
Same lol
The best points refresh tool I've ever had was el-cheapo paper nail files. Basically is just a piece of cardboard with fine (ish) sandpaper glued in a handy format.
I keep an old ten-pack in a zip bag in my toolbox. Great to refresh a pair of carboned-up sparkilators as well.
What I was thinking. They are called emery boards, find them in the cosmetics section at Walmart. And likewise with Kevin, I have never had good luck with the points files.
Kevin you are amazing. You really know your stuff. I love how you explain what you're doing so that people can learn from you.
Thank you sir! I can't rescue them all, but if I spend my life teaching others how to do it, I can help rescue a lot of them
Always nice when Kevin teaches car technology, thumbs up for you Kevin, I have been a car mechanic myself for 18 years and am happy with your explanation of work, no nonsense stories.
Nice truck that C10, too bad I live so far away.
Greetings from the Netherlands.
Good to see Mook and Angus. That's definitely a decent truck. Sounds pretty healthy and good luck in the sale Kevin 👍✌️🇺🇲
Had a 69 C15 ( leaf spring rear ) that was 3 on the tree that I swapped out for TH350. Fun little project. Went with the aluminum eBay rad too. As I do with most vehicles.
I really like Kevin's content. He does a great job talking through what he is doing. I've never had a Automotive class so I'm learning a lot about cars from his channel. Plus, Mook is a hoot! 😄
I hope u see my comment",my trick before wire brushing crap off brake shields",Spary and Wet it down with carb fluid inwhich makes it safer for ur lungs.
Mook is definitely the key ingredient to a happy relationship 😂 being silly and having fun is definitely one of the main reasons me and my wife are still laughing after nearly 20 years together, great to watch.
I wish all repairs would happen as quickly as your "magic of television" segment. So fast. So easy.
38:00 They didn't teach me this in mechanic simulator. LOL.
That's incredibly smart!! The tension on that spring, WOW!
Angus! It's been a minute! Heck, and yeah Kevin, there are 9 billion videos out here on doing drum brakes, but yours are the best to watch because you patiently explain everything in simple layman terms and you're not afraid of repeating yourself from older videos you did where you explained what the components of something are and how they function. So keep it up!
The carburetor might be missing the linkage to the accelerator pump, it looks similar to corvair carbs which have a plunger type accelerator pump. And I loved that video on the barn find corvair cause it gave me an itch to finish getting my grandfathers corvair running plus there is so much history behind the corvairs.
Great stuff! Love the explanations of WHY you do the things you do, instead of other channels who just do it without saying why! EDUCATIONAL!
Glad to see you got angus back on a episode missed seeing him in the last few
Love this truck. My grandpa had one. We went EVERYWHERE in it. His was a 3 on the 🌳. I'm 46 and that was some of my best childhood memories. Thank you for this video.😊😔
How much you want for it
A 292 will have big side covers on passenger side of engine, the rest have small lifter covers . Hope this helps !
I'm a simple man. I see a new JYD video, I click, I hit thumbs up.
I hope you get that charger, dude, that would be such a boss revival!
When Kevin said he looked like the gold tin man, I heard C3pO audibly gasp and say”Well I never!” Love your stuff man it’s so good!!
Kevin, you put the brake shoes on backwards. The shoes are different lengths of braking material for a reason.
To reduce pedal pressure the shoes are loose to allow them to rotate a limited amount with the wheel.
The brake shoe movement is needed for the semi self-energizing design. The front (smaller shoe) applies braking force to the bottom of the big brake shoe while the wheel cylinder applies braking force to the upper end.
The brakes you pulled off of Mook's Nova were backwards too, that's why they were worn so differently.
Primary short shoe front, secondary long shoe rear to make brakes work properly.
Also you don't want to use anti seize, you want brake lube for all the contact points.
Came here to say this. Front shoes reversed.
@@mariot4811 What about white lithium grease?
@@loose-arrow-garage nope. That's low temp greae. Brake lube for brakes. White lithium for like the parking cable if it's sticky or something like that.
Hey Kevin,
I wouldn't bother with PV Blaster or heat for those fittings on the hoses.
You just need two hammers, one heavier than the other.
You take the heavier hammer and hold it on one side of the nut as a kind of anvil. Then you use the other one to hammer in the opposite side of the nut. You may have to repeat that for the other side's of the nut, but that usually cracks them loose pretty quick and makes them super easy to turn too.
Kevin, Thanks for the detailed explanation of a brake job, for the 500th time. It really helps us to understand what each part of the components work. The more I learn the more I realize, I AIN'T DOING MY OWN BRAKES! I am here for the laffs and Mook-Cam.
I learned some things on drum brakes and it will be very helpful with my '75 Firebird and my '72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4. Really enjoyed watching you revive this great truck and give it new life! Props man!
Tools, tricks, and methods never get old. More carb diagnosis and correction is always welcome. Love it, you're not being repetitive - it's called "reinforcing"!
The other day I bought a quad for real cheap, I knew it wasn't gonna start, but only after 2 days I got it to fire, I learnt quite a few tricks from your videos and some others from a mate. Thanks!
Thanks guys for sharing your life with us all.
Keep trans fluid in the 'glide and it will outlive you! change the trans fluid and filter and the oil... and for crying out loud put a kit in the carb! You guys are the bomb!
Thank you so much, my boyfriend has a 72 c10 that was his fathers, his father passed away in 07 and it’s sat since then And we’re finally getting to it all these years later and this is going to help us a lot ❤
Your description on how to get an engine running was spot on. However, and this is a personal opinion, I wish you would shoot a gas/oil mixture down the carb instead of brake clean. It would give the cylinders a little lube on startup. Again, just a personal opinion. BTW, love the revivals.
In the past, I've used just a little ATF (automatic transmission fluid) down the intake to help break everything loose. It works pretty good.
Now I don't have any use for what you explain in this vid while wrenching (at least yet or at this time, I plan on buying some old cars when I have financial capacity), but I really enjoy watching it, and you have the teaching voice that makes it really easy to follow what you are doing, and thuss be able to do the same
Mook and yourself should offer a 10 minute safety video regarding do and do not when working on starting engines. You tucked in those draw strings for a reason and some in a hurry could have missed the point or that open fan blade. Emergency Rooms suck and fingers don't grow back. Both of you do awesome content!
One of these days I'm going to find a supplier for sweatshirts that doesn't come with those damn suicide strings
@@JunkyardDigs First thing I do when I get a new hoodie is cut the strings off and toss em in the trash.
Nice tutorial on drum brakes. Your carb does have an accelerator pump and it needs a new one in its rebuild. It also has a choke and an air cleaner and these things work together, especially on small carburators.
Kevin, after hundreds of those brake jobs, I have to say that was the BEST drum brake tutorial video I have ever seen. That would have helped me when I was a teenager….but there was no internet then!
I am SO glad you washed this before you worked on it. It's one of my OCD's when you get a hold of one of the revivals. 😁Drives me nuts. Such a sweet truck! I hope whoever gets it takes care of it.
I'll just add something about brake hoses - check inside of them before fitting. It's only happened a couple of times, but the insides of the metal fittings weren't machined. Literally a solid metal slug. When it happens you'll be wondering why it doesn't let any fluid through when trying to bleed them!
Nice find. My first vehicle I bought in 1991 at age 15 was a 69 GMC that's basically this truck. I sold it long ago but still love these old trucks
Loved this episode. My brother and I learned to drive on my dad’s stepside ‘68 C20 with a 292, (also on the ‘52 Ford tractor, but that was work) bombing around the back fields, learning to fishtail it on wet grass and regain control. You know - farm kid stuff. Living in L.A. now, you don’t see a lot of ‘em. I’d love to find one someday and bring it back to life.
I am working on a 72 gmc and love that you are starting to do more Chevy trucks
I really appreciate how you show exactly what you are doing and explain what it does. You are getting to be a good teacher.
Also, that wire you put from the battery to the coil, that is how people used to steal cars, also known as "hotwiring" a car. Very good reason to find a way to lock your hood!
Haven’t clicked that fast in a while, love y’all’s content, hits close to home for me, I come from a mechanic family, so it’s nice to see people who appreciate older vehicles. Just bought my very first classic car, 1957 Ford Fairlane. Love y’all’s videos!
Hello Kevin, i just started watching your videos. Love them, and as a mechanic who has worked at Ford, done small engine repair, and now into the powersports industry i can wholeheartedly support these videos. Alot of information that you put out is on par with professionals but with a more basic means of attaining that goal. Knowledge goes a long ways.
On the next episode of Junkyard Digs, Kevin takes the front brakes back apart and puts them together correctly with the short shoe in the front.
i always enjoy another Chevy being saved as well as watching another in the seemingly endless number of brake jobs... Great work, as always.. If I had the bucks, I'd take this (or some other truck) off your hands
That is a heavy half. The "Heavy 1/2" was essentially a tow package with 6 Lug hubs, stiffer springs, and Tow mirrors on both sides (most trucks of this Era only had a driver side mirror). Idk if it also came with a posi rear but it could have been optioned separately.
6 lugs were standard til 71.
Yes and heavy half was later in the square bodies. And there were couple three mirror options. You dont really know much about these pickups.
Looks like the front tires locked when stopping in shopping parking lot at the end Great video Kevin @Junkyard Digs
Possibly my favorite chevy truck ever. Nice find!
100% agree!!
You have not done this detailed of a show in a while. I'm loving this!!
Great video! I know you hate doing brakes but the tips on how to do things step by step and one at a time are always needed. Thanks for the video! Keep up the great work!
Also - always happy to see Angus drop in. You guys rock!
I don't hate them too much, it's just that we do them so often I hate whole videos being based around us doing brake jobs over and over and over 😂
Pretty much anything will start and drive with very little effort, but that only takes up the first 16 minutes of a video, The meat and potatoes is all the tedious stuff afterwards
Mook always makes me laugh. Kevin always makes me laugh. My kinda people! Always love the content. When my phone tells me about a new episode, I pull it up on the big screen in the garage and turn up the sound bar!
Auto shop 101 loving it Kevin the only thing missing ,is a few angry moments ,I would also suggest using line wrenches instead of open wrenches on Brake and fuel lines lines
Great video. that truck reminds me of my first vehicle a 1972 Chevy C10 with a 250 CID straight six that I bought back in 1992 for $775.00. I knew the engine in and out, taking it apart and putting back together many times. One time I set to points and set the ignition timing in the dark on the side of the road with just a match book cover and feeling the points to set the timing on no. 1 cylinder at TDC. If you have this truck for sale still I have the money!
I like how simplistic you make everything sound! I’m not a mechanical inclined person but whatever part it is I need I’ll know just enough what to research but as
Far as replacing the part
Nope not a clue when it comes to the engine but you make it so simplistic I could do it by watching a couple of your vids!
Boy I sure do miss my old '69 C10. Eager to see the fix up.
Kevin, the shoe with the long lining is the secondary, in other words it installs to the rear, the shorter lining goes on the front, if you put them in backward your brakes will be excessively "grabby" or may even skid the wheel with light brake pedal input, just an FYI so yer not screwing with adjustment when you drive it and eat steering wheel first time ya hit the brakes
I guess you noticed like I did that he put the ones on the left front on backwards
Oh yeah, been turnin wrenches most of my 57 years on the planet, hell when I first started as a young kid the new cars still had points distributors, I was 10 years old when I did my first paid job for a neighbor, just happened to be rear drum brakes on a 68 Plymouth Sattelite, now days when I'm driving down the road I see things like, oh he's gonna lose that muffler or I wonder if she knows that tires nearly flat, sometimes I think it's a lil bit of a curse the car gods put on me, lmao!
Kevin is not what you would call smart. This is the same guy who keeps spraying brake cleaner into the carb and cylinders. What a fing moron!!!
"Can you move my Johnson" "Angus I Don't know if we are that close" 🤔 😅 😏 🤣 @Junkyard Digs
That el Camino looked killer
I really appreciate you saved the truck i love Chevy's old trucks i love old-fashioned trucks! I wish they came back again! i wish they made the old trucks again Greetings from Lousiana! I love America 🇺🇲 !!!!!
Traditional points (and relay contact) files are meant to just "burnish" the points contacts, they really aren't supposed to aggressively file down the contacts. Points are usually plated, and filing off the plating will cause them to get dirty much faster. Of course with old very corroded points you have to remove all the corrosion, so you have no other choice but to file or sand.
Best option is always replaced, but we're always in a hurry 😂
Kevin do you get any opportunity to pick up points sets from yard/liquidated stock etc? The frequency you need them would be useful to acquire.
Kevin I can tell you that inline 6 is not the 292, as the motor mounts are not offset like they would be for a 292 inline 6. So it is probably is the slightly smaller inline six, which I forget the size too. But two things you might want to do, that will keep that engine running. Replace the cam shaft & lifters, and update the motor mounts. As those inline 6’s was seriously bad about dropping the cam shaft onto the #1 push rod snapping it and busting the block. And those 3 piece motor mounts are a bear to find when they break.
I love the fact that you have almost 1 million subscribers. And you still teach how to do things
Video's with Mook are the BEST!
I’m a Ford guy too, but wow! What a gorgeous C10!
Even the old tires are cool. I want some centennial canyon climbers lol! Super normal for those cowls to rust like that.
I have watched a lot of his videos an I am blown away how he has this ability to find these amazing classics
I like the videos with mook ! You two work together so well! That red on that truck ! Might be cleanest truck you have purchased!
32:18 and 33:15 if you want to avoid brake dust in the air when disassembling or wire brushing the backing plate, feel free to keep a garden hose or even a spray bottle full of water near by, and soak it down before making dust/releasing it into the air. Just a safety thing i learned in both high school shop class, and my college automotive technician course!
Of course brake cleaner works too, but that stuff can be expensive!
Love the content, but I'm fascinated by the way you were tying up the excess on that strap once you got it on the trailer!
Search up "daisy chain knot" that's what he did
I LOVE the "push button" start, just like my '20 Blazer! Did you adjust the "dwell" for those points? If they are set too close, the would definitely cause stalling. Also, don't forget a TINY bit of high temp grease on the distributor cam! That dry "rubbing block" will cause the point gap to narrow VERY quickly! The video was GREAT, especially the tutorial for the drum breaks. THANK YOU!
Have y'all decided what you're gonna do with the Ram? It'd be cool to see it Cummins swapped, but if it's too much hassle I'd understand.
I currently own a 69 SWB Chevy C10 with factory wood bed. When I was in high school, I had a 77 GMC Sierra Classic SWB. Early on, I purchased aftermarket hood braces for the hood buckling.
You guys are very down to earth.
Hell yeah Angus!! When is he gonna do his "co-host" content again? The dodge was hilarious.
Ahhh yes the “flip it and make some money” that turns into “no I’m gonna fix that up someday” 😂
I love how he holds the gasket all carefully not to get it on his fingers then turns around and smears it all over it with them.....priceless!
I feel incomplete with that carburetor running so poorly. Will you update us when you get it running right?
Motor Sounds very strong Good old Inline Six
Love the straight six videos it would be awesome if you could build one of these to make some good power ❤
Hey Kevin and mook since I started watching your videos I've really enjoyed watching you I thought your channel would be boring like the others I've watched but you two bring life to this channel there's never a dull moment you both bring it wonderful job keep up the great work
Love the Content! Love the Cars! Love the Channel! Plus Mook is also adorable🤗🥰Nice Work Kevin and Mook- You are Absolutely Smashing It! Can't wait for Mook's Nova Part 3!... PEACE✌
I like that you are a Ford fan but will compliment other brands when it's due. Great content as always. Thanks for the great channel.