When I shimmed my ball joints all equally (fully inboard) my camber varied quite a large degree on each side. I can't remember and I have lost the alignment sheet, but I think one side was like -2.5 degrees and the other was like -1.5. I've since replaced all of my rubber subframe mounts and balljoints and am gonna see what it's like now when I get it aligned again...
I've now made some adjustments on the rear as the the contact patch was only across the inner half of the tyre, will need to get a gauge on it and reset
@@gregoryelgood I'm just readjusting my fronts now - had ride height dialed in and looked and felt good but was getting clunks when braking at slow speed. Had a look today and my top mounts at the front were in contact with the body - have dented near the factory shock mount pretty good! How much clearance between the top mount at the front and the body of the car is there on yours? Just trying to find a good middle ground - as the higher the top mount is situated the lower the car is - I found with max clearance and the top mount set far down, you can't get the ride height low enough without unscrewing the coilover too much and having a loose spring
My top mounts are at the highest point, they don't touch the body at the front but at the rear they have gone into the sheet metal which I just trimmed a little out.
@@gregoryelgood I'm just checking everything now because I have some weird camber in the back, have done all the wear joints/bushings now. Possibly a dodgy subframe now, but still checking a few things. I'm shimmed fully inboard on the passenger side and it looks slightly positive, and I'm shimmed almost all the way outboard on the driver side rear and it has really crazy negative camber. I'm sure my shocks/springs were labeled when they arrived and I am sure I'm not silly enough to install rear shocks in the front or vice/versa. Is there a way to tell which is a front coil/spring and which is a rear? I can see in product pics there are two longer and two shorter shock/springs. Probably the last thing for me to check lol
I used a 4 ton bottle jack to massage the sheet metal where the original front shocks mounted. The aluminium boss is flush to turret and about 5mm clearance now.
Edit: Appears I must be missing a thrust washer or something - have play between pivot arm and subframe - small amount but enough to rattle. Do you experience any noise at all going over bumpy roads? I have had my FCCKIT installed for a while now but it's always been a bit rattly over bumpy roads - it will only rattle over raised road surfaces though, it handles dips fine. I have gone over everything on the car, and replaced wheel bearings, all of the ball joints and bushings, steering rack ends and it will still rattle. With the car on stands I can't find anything loose with a pry bar and it's starting to drive me up the wall.
@@gregoryelgood looks like the pivot arm on all corners has some side to side play in it. Some corners make a small noise when pry them side to side. This is with the thrust washers in place and mike's stainless and oilite bushing pivot arms
@@gregoryelgood I have be trying to and have sent photos to him but he has not yet gotten back to me, all i want to know from him is if the thrust washers are all there. Honestly I can't fault the quality of his parts but have found after sales support a bit lacklustre. My first problem was a leaking shock absorbers that was leaking from the adjustment knob. Didn't get much from him other other for him to say he has never heard of it before and doubt that it was even leaking from there. I suggested I pay for a replacement shock and then send him my leaking one back as I'm from Australia and he ignored me. Ended up reaching out to gaz who promptly sent me instructions and a new knob, hardware and seals at no cost. I replaced the seal and refilled the shock oil that was completely empty and no more leaks.. Every other time it seems his only response is to imply I didn't read his instructions. Which I have and also all of the videos including yours and set everything to his parameters and I still had the clunks. Just annoyed as I've spent thousands of dollars on not just his fcckit but other parts like his slickshift and solid subframe mounts and he can't even reply and say yes the thrust washers are correct or no im missing something. That way I can rule the fxckit out. I've replaced everything on my suspension, bushings, ball joints, end links, subframe mounts with mike's solid kit and it still rattles and clunks. No movement in any of the moving parts and I can't replicate it on the driveway. Anyway rant over.
Thank you for this video. I'm about to fit this kit to my MGF, and your tutorial is the best I can find on the internet.
Thanks for the comment 👍 hope there is some useful pieces of information in there....
When I shimmed my ball joints all equally (fully inboard) my camber varied quite a large degree on each side. I can't remember and I have lost the alignment sheet, but I think one side was like -2.5 degrees and the other was like -1.5. I've since replaced all of my rubber subframe mounts and balljoints and am gonna see what it's like now when I get it aligned again...
I've now made some adjustments on the rear as the the contact patch was only across the inner half of the tyre, will need to get a gauge on it and reset
@@gregoryelgood I'm just readjusting my fronts now - had ride height dialed in and looked and felt good but was getting clunks when braking at slow speed.
Had a look today and my top mounts at the front were in contact with the body - have dented near the factory shock mount pretty good!
How much clearance between the top mount at the front and the body of the car is there on yours? Just trying to find a good middle ground - as the higher the top mount is situated the lower the car is - I found with max clearance and the top mount set far down, you can't get the ride height low enough without unscrewing the coilover too much and having a loose spring
My top mounts are at the highest point, they don't touch the body at the front but at the rear they have gone into the sheet metal which I just trimmed a little out.
@@gregoryelgood I'm just checking everything now because I have some weird camber in the back, have done all the wear joints/bushings now. Possibly a dodgy subframe now, but still checking a few things. I'm shimmed fully inboard on the passenger side and it looks slightly positive, and I'm shimmed almost all the way outboard on the driver side rear and it has really crazy negative camber.
I'm sure my shocks/springs were labeled when they arrived and I am sure I'm not silly enough to install rear shocks in the front or vice/versa.
Is there a way to tell which is a front coil/spring and which is a rear? I can see in product pics there are two longer and two shorter shock/springs. Probably the last thing for me to check lol
I used a 4 ton bottle jack to massage the sheet metal where the original front shocks mounted. The aluminium boss is flush to turret and about 5mm clearance now.
You’ll have nightmares about washers 😂 if you didn’t fit this kit did you have an alternative set up in mind?
I would of probably gone with TF subframes and AVO coilovers, might still happen yet depending how I get on with theses.
Good demo , but much trickier when on the car, access for tools is a problem!
But was it doable in the end?
Edit: Appears I must be missing a thrust washer or something - have play between pivot arm and subframe - small amount but enough to rattle. Do you experience any noise at all going over bumpy roads? I have had my FCCKIT installed for a while now but it's always been a bit rattly over bumpy roads - it will only rattle over raised road surfaces though, it handles dips fine. I have gone over everything on the car, and replaced wheel bearings, all of the ball joints and bushings, steering rack ends and it will still rattle. With the car on stands I can't find anything loose with a pry bar and it's starting to drive me up the wall.
I had an issue when it was on its lowest setting that the spring adjusters hit the top arm, might be worth checking that.
@@gregoryelgood looks like the pivot arm on all corners has some side to side play in it. Some corners make a small noise when pry them side to side.
This is with the thrust washers in place and mike's stainless and oilite bushing pivot arms
Can't say I had that issue, might be worth contacting Mike to double check you have everything in the correct place.
@@gregoryelgood I have be trying to and have sent photos to him but he has not yet gotten back to me, all i want to know from him is if the thrust washers are all there.
Honestly I can't fault the quality of his parts but have found after sales support a bit lacklustre. My first problem was a leaking shock absorbers that was leaking from the adjustment knob. Didn't get much from him other other for him to say he has never heard of it before and doubt that it was even leaking from there. I suggested I pay for a replacement shock and then send him my leaking one back as I'm from Australia and he ignored me.
Ended up reaching out to gaz who promptly sent me instructions and a new knob, hardware and seals at no cost. I replaced the seal and refilled the shock oil that was completely empty and no more leaks..
Every other time it seems his only response is to imply I didn't read his instructions. Which I have and also all of the videos including yours and set everything to his parameters and I still had the clunks.
Just annoyed as I've spent thousands of dollars on not just his fcckit but other parts like his slickshift and solid subframe mounts and he can't even reply and say yes the thrust washers are correct or no im missing something. That way I can rule the fxckit out.
I've replaced everything on my suspension, bushings, ball joints, end links, subframe mounts with mike's solid kit and it still rattles and clunks. No movement in any of the moving parts and I can't replicate it on the driveway.
Anyway rant over.
@user-yz4qp7lc7i send me the photos gregelgood@gmail.com I'll have a look, I still have my old fcckit so I can double check.