STIHL MS271 - HOW TO INCREASE OIL FLOW TO YOUR BAR AND CHAIN! Let me show you what small modification I use to increase oil flow to the bar and chain on your stihl chainsaw.
I think you've hit the nail on the head with this one. I ordered an Oregon replacement bar for my Stihl MS271 and the tensioning hole does not intersect the chain groove in this new bar. That the same thing you've accomplished with your O-ring mod. I'm gonna JB weld both those areas on my old Stihl bar, but still recommend the upgrade to Oregon.
My bar looks like yours. Burnt!!! Had oiler replaced. New bar and burnt that one. I really think you found a simple solution. Thank you for posting. Love the saw just needs more oil
Just bought a 271 at a garage sale for ten bucks with five chains, oil, case and extras. The guy said it was broken and had taken stuff apart. Home it came and got a degreasing. Saw turned out to very clean and little used. Four or five pulls and it screamed to life minus bar and chain. I noticed the bar tip was blackend from heat and sprocket had no teeth above the bar and was frozen solid. Also noticed not all chains were the same. I put a new Rollomatic bar and chain on. Started a test run but also noticed that not much oil was present. I gave your hack a go and it is much better but still wished for a more oily mess. Think I'll stick with my old 80's saws
I have the exact same issue with my 271. Have changed the pump, cleared lines, etc. I've had new chains stretch to far to use with only a few sharpens on them - pretty frustrating. I'm gonna try this trick. Thanks!
Worst saw I’ve ever owned for this reason. I’ve been through chains and bars, changed pumps, all the pieces and lines affiliated. They simply just suck. I’ve given up on mine and I’ll have to sell it as a parts saw. Very sad considering the cost of this thing. I’ll go husky from now on
My new ms271 has the same issue. I have two gallons of fuel through it, and the bar is blue from heat and the chain dry. Good video im going to see if i can get it warranty.
I think you're working with the wrong "hole" from what I'm seeing....you're in the adjuster pin hole. I believe the oiler hole for these bars is the smaller hole in front of and slightly above the adjuster pin hole(s). The oiler holes are obviously a bit smaller because they conform the the height of the oiler channel in the case. If you take a good look at the bar where the actual oiler holes are, you should see a faint witness "oval" more or less imprinted on the bar, which, over time is a result of the bar being sandwiched tight against the horizontal oil pump channel in the case. Bottom line: try to get those smaller holes cleaned/unblocked. If you really want to bump oil flow a bit, chamfer the oiler holes at a slight angle (look at any Sugihara bar for reference). If you're unsatisfied with that, pull the pump and slightly trim the corner of the pump case shoulder that limits the clockwise turning of the adjuster screw. A millimeter here will do...perhaps getting another 1/16th of a turn's worth. I used a Dremel with one of their cut-off wheels (one pass). My ported '94 029 oils a 20" bar pretty good with these changes. It's very noticeable. Good luck!
@@indigatorveritatis8891 As he mentions (if memory serves), definitely make sure the mating surfaces are clean and flat where they sandwich the bar, and turn the saw on its left side to get a good look to make sure you didn't miss a locating pin or something that could prevent the pinch area from fully seating/sealing. I get my oiler holes plugged fairly often while ripping, but I've got a nice compressor to be able to keep the bar attended to - assuming I'm home.
thank you for making this video. I have had the same issue out of my brand new 271 I’ve only used it twice and both times smoked the bar. They warranty swapped out the worm gear and the oil pick up to try to correct it. My only question is, did the O-ring stay in place and is it still working?
I have a 261 C that just developed a bar oiling problem. I cleaned the saw good this morning and noticed it wasn’t throwing any oil off the front of the bar/chain now. I was thinking it might have developed this problem after the chain came off and the catcher caught it slightly damaging the inner bar guide/gasket if that’s what you call it. Anyway this inner bar guide is a piece of stamped sheet metal and it is sandwiched in between the bar and the saw body. The oil is supposed to flow through this piece of stamped steel and into the bar. If it’s slightly tweaked at all, being thin metal I’m guessing it could allow oil to leak to the bottom of the saw instead of going into the chain track. On a side note: For more oil flow into the track: I have a milling machine and I made the hole into an elongated slot on my Husqvarna, it worked like a charm but it’s really hard to start after it’s been running.
Have you cleaned out the bar track where the bar oil goes in at. I've had my 271 for 14 years and still on the original bar and it doesn't look like that. Another thing it can be is if your chain isn't sharp it will burn off the bar oil cause the chain is getting hot from not cutting the way it should.
I do make sure the oil passages are cleaned within the bar but I definitely could see how a dull chain would cause some excessive heat...I appreciate the comment... thanks!
just a few reasons your having issues with your saw , the oil hole is plugged, you didnt add oil at some point to turn bar blue. cutting stumps will suck the oil away from the bar and make it run dry, dull chain will turn the bar blue , there is sawdust and debris between the bar and the saw housing causing the oil to not enter the port and run into the adjustment hole. make sure you worm gear is engaged with the clutch drum , I also have a 251, 261another new 271,391 ive cut 300 cord with my 271 with no issues,
@@straightcutgeerz I checked mine today and it has the same thing, the gap extends down through the hole (on both sides). I noticed there was two slight raised spots between the rails where the oil can pool until the drivers can pick it up, weird how yours flowed back into the hole, mine is not doing that. Have you had any issues with with the drivers snagging the O-ring? Do you happen to know the size of the O-ring? Definitely a good idea to file away in the mental tool box!! Thanks for sharing!
The cover does cover the hole, but my cover is not a flat edged surface....it would fill the cavity in the cover and then spillover onto the outside of the bar....
@@straightcutgeerz If it's not available, that'd be a 1st on a saw that new, I'll bet another model's will work. The plate I'm talking of is a mirror copy of the 1 at the bar studs.
I never considered there being an issue with the Stihl bar and chain oil...that is what I'm using....I may try the Husqvarna oil and see how that does ...thanks for the insight...
@@straightcutgeerz I had the same issue you are having until I switched oils, I've never tried the Husqvarna oil tho, if ya do try that would be cool to see a video of how that works out for ya
I have an MS271. I am very disappointed with that saw in every way. I really can't use it for much of anything. It looks pretty sitting on the shelf, but that's about it. And it won't oil the chain worth a flip.
I believe it was an assortment from a parts store...they typically have them in the "HELP" area....I doubt mine is oil resistant but it's so inexpensive and easy to change I didn't really care...
You may want to pull your bar off and fire your saw up (chain brake off) and make sure oil is being pumped to the bar...I would start there first so you know if the problem is deeper or not....hope you get it figured out..
This “fix” makes no sense at all, and it’s not doing anything. You put an O-ring around the tensioner hole which is unrelated to oiling. When you put the bar on to test the oiler it dripped down because you didn’t have a chain on it. Oil only goes into the channel when there is a chain because the movement of the spinning chain draws oil into the channel. Without this the oil would just drip down because there’s no force to guide the oil into the channel. If your bar is getting too hot you need to do one of 3 things: 1) Clean the gunk out of the channel of your bar (scraping your bar is required maintenance) 2) Unclog your oiler hole (small hole above the large tensioner hole) 3) Loosen your chain (a tight chain creates more friction hence more heat. When you set the tension on your chain do it a little looser that you actually want it, because when you tighten down the bar nuts the chain get a little bit tighter)
All of that you said is normally what’s wrong but on these monsters it doesn’t help anything. They simply suck. Mine will be sold cheap as parts and it’s not even 2 years old. Had this problem from day 1 and ace hardware wouldn’t help me with it.
I used Black RTV to seal the same hole for my MS271. Finally oils the chain properly!
I think you've hit the nail on the head with this one. I ordered an Oregon replacement bar for my Stihl MS271 and the tensioning hole does not intersect the chain groove in this new bar. That the same thing you've accomplished with your O-ring mod. I'm gonna JB weld both those areas on my old Stihl bar, but still recommend the upgrade to Oregon.
That's good to know!...I guess I will be getting me a Oregon bar next..lol....thanks!!
Do you remember the Oregon part number on that bar? Also was it an 18" or 20"? I need the 20"
My bar looks like yours. Burnt!!! Had oiler replaced. New bar and burnt that one. I really think you found a simple solution. Thank you for posting. Love the saw just needs more oil
Absolutely... thanks!
Just bought a 271 at a garage sale for ten bucks with five chains, oil, case and extras. The guy said it was broken and had taken stuff apart. Home it came and got a degreasing. Saw turned out to very clean and little used. Four or five pulls and it screamed to life minus bar and chain. I noticed the bar tip was blackend from heat and sprocket had no teeth above the bar and was frozen solid. Also noticed not all chains were the same. I put a new Rollomatic bar and chain on. Started a test run but also noticed that not much oil was present. I gave your hack a go and it is much better but still wished for a more oily mess. Think I'll stick with my old 80's saws
Awesome find!!.....,it is a great saw but im with you I want the chain and bar to be covered in oil...thanks
Thanks, I learned a few things here. I’ll check my MS-291 and my pole saw because I have several to cut and process.
Glad to have helped!!
I have the exact same issue with my 271. Have changed the pump, cleared lines, etc. I've had new chains stretch to far to use with only a few sharpens on them - pretty frustrating. I'm gonna try this trick. Thanks!
I really wish they would have set this saw up so you can manually adjust the oiler...it is annoying....
Worst saw I’ve ever owned for this reason. I’ve been through chains and bars, changed pumps, all the pieces and lines affiliated. They simply just suck. I’ve given up on mine and I’ll have to sell it as a parts saw. Very sad considering the cost of this thing. I’ll go husky from now on
You are definitely a champion 🏆💪 with your experiment. It definitely works. Am definitely going to do it. Thankyou 👍✔️💯
My new ms271 has the same issue. I have two gallons of fuel through it, and the bar is blue from heat and the chain dry. Good video im going to see if i can get it warranty.
Excellent troubleshooting there! Been looking for a solution on this family for a while.
It would be great to know what size you used.
I think you're working with the wrong "hole" from what I'm seeing....you're in the adjuster pin hole. I believe the oiler hole for these bars is the smaller hole in front of and slightly above the adjuster pin hole(s). The oiler holes are obviously a bit smaller because they conform the the height of the oiler channel in the case. If you take a good look at the bar where the actual oiler holes are, you should see a faint witness "oval" more or less imprinted on the bar, which, over time is a result of the bar being sandwiched tight against the horizontal oil pump channel in the case. Bottom line: try to get those smaller holes cleaned/unblocked. If you really want to bump oil flow a bit, chamfer the oiler holes at a slight angle (look at any Sugihara bar for reference). If you're unsatisfied with that, pull the pump and slightly trim the corner of the pump case shoulder that limits the clockwise turning of the adjuster screw. A millimeter here will do...perhaps getting another 1/16th of a turn's worth. I used a Dremel with one of their cut-off wheels (one pass). My ported '94 029 oils a 20" bar pretty good with these changes. It's very noticeable. Good luck!
I see what you're saying, but if it's still dripping through the chain tensioner ports, wouldn't that still be a problem? Or am I missing something?
@@indigatorveritatis8891 As he mentions (if memory serves), definitely make sure the mating surfaces are clean and flat where they sandwich the bar, and turn the saw on its left side to get a good look to make sure you didn't miss a locating pin or something that could prevent the pinch area from fully seating/sealing. I get my oiler holes plugged fairly often while ripping, but I've got a nice compressor to be able to keep the bar attended to - assuming I'm home.
Working with the wrong hole? “That’s what she said” 🤣🤣🤣
Neat trick. I might try that.
Thanks!!
thank you for making this video. I have had the same issue out of my brand new 271 I’ve only used it twice and both times smoked the bar. They warranty swapped out the worm gear and the oil pick up to try to correct it. My only question is, did the O-ring stay in place and is it still working?
Thanks, hope that will fix the dry bar/chain I’ve had for a long time on my 291.
I have a 261 C that just developed a bar oiling problem. I cleaned the saw good this morning and noticed it wasn’t throwing any oil off the front of the bar/chain now.
I was thinking it might have developed this problem after the chain came off and the catcher caught it slightly damaging the inner bar guide/gasket if that’s what you call it. Anyway this inner bar guide is a piece of stamped sheet metal and it is sandwiched in between the bar and the saw body. The oil is supposed to flow through this piece of stamped steel and into the bar. If it’s slightly tweaked at all, being thin metal I’m guessing it could allow oil to leak to the bottom of the saw instead of going into the chain track.
On a side note: For more oil flow into the track: I have a milling machine and I made the hole into an elongated slot on my Husqvarna, it worked like a charm but it’s really hard to start after it’s been running.
If you were cutting in cold weather cut your lube by 10% with kerosene or diesel. Also there may a higher output oiler for it.
It has been summer when using it mostly...
I cut mine with ATF 10 percent.
We use veg oil
Bear in mind the lighter the oil the less it'll lube the bar/chain. For cross ties ATF works great.
interesting , good stuff
Have you cleaned out the bar track where the bar oil goes in at. I've had my 271 for 14 years and still on the original bar and it doesn't look like that. Another thing it can be is if your chain isn't sharp it will burn off the bar oil cause the chain is getting hot from not cutting the way it should.
I do make sure the oil passages are cleaned within the bar but I definitely could see how a dull chain would cause some excessive heat...I appreciate the comment... thanks!
Wow unbelievable
just a few reasons your having issues with your saw , the oil hole is plugged, you didnt add oil at some point to turn bar blue. cutting stumps will suck the oil away from the bar and make it run dry, dull chain will turn the bar blue , there is sawdust and debris between the bar and the saw housing causing the oil to not enter the port and run into the adjustment hole. make sure you worm gear is engaged with the clutch drum , I also have a 251, 261another new 271,391 ive cut 300 cord with my 271 with no issues,
I don't think the Govt. wants them to oil very much as a way to reduce pollution, so NO extra oil.
I think you're probably on to something there....
a LOT to be said for the old manual oilers
@@rodolfolopez5740 My first Homelite had both an automatic and a manual oiler to give extra help when cutting really hard wood.
Might have been a defect in the bar. Did you try flipping the bar over an see if it had the same issue on the other side?
Good question.....however I did check the other side and it is made the same way...
@@straightcutgeerz I checked mine today and it has the same thing, the gap extends down through the hole (on both sides). I noticed there was two slight raised spots between the rails where the oil can pool until the drivers can pick it up, weird how yours flowed back into the hole, mine is not doing that. Have you had any issues with with the drivers snagging the O-ring? Do you happen to know the size of the O-ring? Definitely a good idea to file away in the mental tool box!! Thanks for sharing!
Think a minute, you'd get the same amount of oil if you'd put the cover on it. The cover is over that hole.
The cover does cover the hole, but my cover is not a flat edged surface....it would fill the cavity in the cover and then spillover onto the outside of the bar....
Well now I just worked on 1 of those & didn't have that problem but then I never cut with it. Rewind.
You're missing a guide plate on the sprocket cover.
If I am. It has never been on this saw. And I bought this saw new...I'll pull the parts diagram and see if I can find it...thanks for the tip....
@@straightcutgeerz If it's not available, that'd be a 1st on a saw that new, I'll bet another model's will work. The plate I'm talking of is a mirror copy of the 1 at the bar studs.
My ms271 has been a disappointment. Quality is not there.
Honestly the lack of oil to the bar and chain is my only complaint...I love the saw otherwise...
What type of bar oil are ya using?
Ive noticed poor performance out of the Stihl orange jug lately
I never considered there being an issue with the Stihl bar and chain oil...that is what I'm using....I may try the Husqvarna oil and see how that does ...thanks for the insight...
@@straightcutgeerz I had the same issue you are having until I switched oils, I've never tried the Husqvarna oil tho, if ya do try that would be cool to see a video of how that works out for ya
@@tdm8817 I'll try and do that.... thanks
I have an MS271. I am very disappointed with that saw in every way. I really can't use it for much of anything. It looks pretty sitting on the shelf, but that's about it. And it won't oil the chain worth a flip.
I love the saw but I'm like you with the lack of oil to the bar/chain...
Just curious, where did you find the o-ring? I'm having the same issue. Unfortunately, I didn't inherit my father's mechanical genes.
I believe it was an assortment from a parts store...they typically have them in the "HELP" area....I doubt mine is oil resistant but it's so inexpensive and easy to change I didn't really care...
Why not just use a thinner winter oil year around
I have the same problem, have had to sharpen blade too many times dulls fast. Do you know if a different bar would have the same problem?
I am not sure if a different bar would be set up the same way....I only have the OE bar on mine.
I have same saw same problem except mine you can't see any oil being thrown out
You may want to pull your bar off and fire your saw up (chain brake off) and make sure oil is being pumped to the bar...I would start there first so you know if the problem is deeper or not....hope you get it figured out..
This “fix” makes no sense at all, and it’s not doing anything. You put an O-ring around the tensioner hole which is unrelated to oiling. When you put the bar on to test the oiler it dripped down because you didn’t have a chain on it. Oil only goes into the channel when there is a chain because the movement of the spinning chain draws oil into the channel. Without this the oil would just drip down because there’s no force to guide the oil into the channel.
If your bar is getting too hot you need to do one of 3 things:
1) Clean the gunk out of the channel of your bar (scraping your bar is required maintenance)
2) Unclog your oiler hole (small hole above the large tensioner hole)
3) Loosen your chain (a tight chain creates more friction hence more heat. When you set the tension on your chain do it a little looser that you actually want it, because when you tighten down the bar nuts the chain get a little bit tighter)
All of that you said is normally what’s wrong but on these monsters it doesn’t help anything. They simply suck. Mine will be sold cheap as parts and it’s not even 2 years old. Had this problem from day 1 and ace hardware wouldn’t help me with it.
Is that an oil ressistenr o ring, pretty sure most are not.