Watching this video should be a prerequisite for people that are going to add "how to" or repair tip videos to TH-cam. Quick, to the point and easy to understand info with no extra b.s. Thank you!
Both my brother’s and my MS-261 chainsaws’ oiling system failed when brand-new. Both saws were serviced by dealers with a thick Echo chain oil (red) at delivery. The part you are talking about on this video is designed to slip to protect the oiling system (i.e. debris clogging the bar outlet). I suspect that if everyone used correct viscosity of chain oil this would not be an issue. Noticed your saw that was repaired looked to have some red dye in the oil (Echo chain oil). I use Stihl bar and chain oil exclusively which is a totally different viscosity.
I have learned more about outdoor power equipment maintenance by watching your channel for the last couple of years that I had learned in my life before. I'm 70 years old now.
This happened to me today. 029 was intermittently oiling. Either bone dry or working fine. No leaks in oil pick up line, cleaned out the reservoir just in case there was debris, and checked plastic bit that goes between the pump and the body. It turned out to be the oil worm gear. Replaced for $20 and was on my way. Thank you for posting this.
Thank you DonyBoy, a very helpful and informative video. I have been having oiling issues for a long time and thought I had it nailed with your video. But when I took the clutch apart I discovered that the oiler was not loose as shown in your video. Instead, it seems like the sprocket or the clutch drum is too small, leaving about a 16th inch of wiggle room. Thus, when the clutch is engaged, the clutch drum simply lifts away from the oiler. Have you ever heard of anything like this? All I can think of is that the wrong part was installed by the manufacturer. I'm considering just purchasing a replacement clutch drum and seeing if it fits better.
Another great one! Thank you! I only run stihl and do have issues and continue to keep them maintained. Meaning taking it to the mechanic 45 minutes away. I wish I had the time to work on them more. I do mostly everything now. Still learning. What brands do you see less of??? Meaning the better brand, haha, that you recommend for my small lawn care business. We do cut small trees and limbs. Thanks for the tips!! Ms170 16 inch is my favorite of my 4 chainsaws.
Thank you for this video. I'm a hero now I fixed our 441 by watching this video. My boss was ready to go buy a new 500i which wouldn't have been a bad thing but I manage to save a couple thousand dollars by swapping this piece. This was so much fun to do as well maybe its time I take a small engine mechanics course. As an arborist who uses saws everyday it would be very useful. 😊
Hey there Dony!!! Great video again buddy!!! The only oiling problem I have had is on a Troy Built Saw. The oil pump was damaged and I can't find a replacement. Other than that, I enjoy watching you make repairs each week and you have saved me many times!!! Thanks!!! Take care!!
Too much oil is my problem on a 260 but I saw 'Steve' point out that there was an oil hole right beside the exhaust which could and or should, be blocked off... This is interesting because I always seem to find at the start of a new season, a huge amount of gungy black oil appears here and yet over a little time and use, the problem eases right up... Recommendation is to get part 0000 953 1001 a set screw and to close up this oil hole.... How do you see this problem? Perhaps you've spoken of this before but I've yet to see... Thank you for your excellent videos as always.... Very well done every single one of them.
It dont surprise me in the least that the parts are getting cheaper and cheaper with time thank you for letting the general public know I have a 026 im assuming its the same but now I have some guidance and will delve in this weekend
Great video, I have a Stihl MS391, I'm guessing that mine will have the same issue. I totally cleaned everything and still no oil comes out. Thanks for sharing
Excellent helpful video! I did have a question before I dig into this issue and troubleshoot. There is some sort of oil filter that I see at the bottom of the galley of the tank for the oil. Could it be that this is just clogged with oil, if so, how would I fix this easily?
Very informative. Advice on (MS261C) if the oil quantity control screw is stripped, do you need to replace the oil pump for the fix. Now pumping a lot of oil. Would like to reduce flow.
That is a great video and tip on that model saw and I have a MS 250 chainsaw and is still working with getting it to crank for me, but don't have the oiling problem yet. You must have save many people time and money by viewing your videos and getting their own equipment working themselves. After the problem I had with my Stihl saw I swore never to buy another one and got a Poulan Pro saw and have the same problem with it too. The Poulan saw had to go to the repair shop after getting it home and the company paid to have the defective carburetor changed out and it is collecting dust along with the Stihl saw. I purchased a battery saw from the Poulan company and it works great though.
I agree. An expensive top brand should be made with quality. As they cheapen their equipment folks will begin to purchase less expensive saws which will last about as long. Thanks for sharing.
I am an older adult. I have enjoyed watching all of your videos and learning how to make some repairs. As I'm retires I'm going to start doing some work. I have a little technical knowledge from the auto industry. Acquiring the correct manuals and specs would help as I proceed. I'm not on any social media though so I can't contact you that way. Keep up your thorough instruction....I'll keep watching.
I have a brand new 261 and think this might be my issue. Mine is giving some oil out, but even after completely cleaning everything out and making sure nothing is blocked, and the oiler is turned to full open, i'm barely getting anything. My guess is this part is just not fully grabbing as it should. I probably have 3-4 hours on the saw at most, and mostly light to moderate cutting.
Hi. Thank you for showing this. If there is a little oil coming out, but not enought could this part be the problem or does it totally stop oil from coming out if this is broken?
Nice and intuitive video! Thanks. Quick question. Do I need to clean the clutch chamber and clutch itself, since it's dirty? I tend to use brake cleaner. Is that harmful in any way?
I have a ms362 with same problem, replaced oil pump, it has burnt up 25 inch chains, drilled out Oiler hole in bar, no help, changed oil pump ,again replaced with a pump of from bigger saw. ( took advice from arborists site). Didn’t work. When running saw with 25 inch bar. It uses less than a half of tank of bar oil, and ruins chain. And no the chain isn’t to tight
I own a dozen pieces of Stihl equipment, and have used their stuff almost exclusively for 25 years. But a $125 Chinese saw I bought on eBay is sure giving my fancy Stihl top-handle saws a run for the money. It is pathetic that Stihl doesn’t have the balls to directly respond to excellent videos like this to explain precisely what is being done about reliability issues with their equipment. Dony has also done a top-notch vid about another lousy Stihl design: the “tool less” oil and fuel caps on many of their saws.
Man I was thinking these things cost way too much to find ourself on here chasing demons. Already had the little plastic gear pawl deal for the pull chord go bad twice. Saw is 3 years old
Hey Don. Have an EGO cordless chainsaw and I have had it cutting exceptionally well ... and then not. I am good about sharpening the blade, and on numerous occasions I have cleaned the oil passage and blew out the bar grooves and oil slots and removed all cutting debris. I tried removing the chain and blade and ran the chainsaw. Oil flowed, albeit oozing slowly but I thought that was because it was cold out. Will a chainsaw oiler function if it is cold? And how cold? So, I put the chain back on ... in right direction, started it and spun blade in front of a log and did not see oil residue. What do you think? Brought chainsaw inside overnight and went out to try it. No. Even tried loosening the oil cap to see if it would release a "vacuum" if there was one. BTW EGO's customer service is outsourced BS. I have many EGO tools, but I am ready to jump ship because I cannot rely on their "Non" Customer Service! No wonder Home Depot cancelled their contract. Try going to an Ace Hardware and they have a half-dozen items (no space) and you'll talk to some knucklehead who has no understanding of the product.
Had this issue every once in awhile on my MS250C I bought brand new, after a refill of oil I had no oil at bar? Had it happen twice and took it back under warranty, dealer could not find anything wrong, had the saw for about 10 years now. Every once in awhile it will still do it, usually removing the full cap and pulling the bar will fix the issue, never really investigated it further since it was sporadic, yes Stihl products have definetly gotten cheaper compared to my 1971 O20 AVP that’s still running
Hey Don, thanks for all you do for us peeps! My farm boss 271 doesn't use as much oil as it did when new, could it be that part starting to go bad? I have cleaned out the oil passages, no change!👍🏻✌🏻️
After troubleshooting my ms170 the first thing I would check is turn the saw upside down and Rev up the saw and check for oil at the oil hole. If you get oil then it's most likely your hose is cracked.
One if the groups I volunteer with recently got two new saws, an MS261 C-M, on a 16” bar, which at the moment is good but then it’s done perhaps just over 1.5hrs. But their new MS391 on a 20inch bar, has done less than an hour and already has ceased oiling, is stalling and once hot, will only start on full throttle, (as if starting a flooding engine). The 391 has only had Aspen 2 in it and the carb has been adjusted by the qualified operator but the bottom end still bogs. The air filter is clean and in good condition. Now the operator that the saw was given to, could investigate this, that and the other and maybe spend out on parts if needed. But considering the saw has less than an hour on it, it’s going back to the dealer as a rejected buy. Whether the dealer gives them a partial refund or fixes it, is up to the dealer. But the operator who’d been given to believe, he’d be receiving an MS400 C-M and was a little surprised, has lost faith in the 391. Also, he’d prepped by buying a few spares for a 400, which are now surplus to requirement. He’s not a happy bunny and has gone back to the other operator’s old MS261. That saw is 5-6yrs. old and is running well. It had a minor erratic starting issue 6mths. back but a new plug solved it. The operator of the old and new 261s, said the 391 operator, would only get the newer 261, if prised from her cold dead hands. We’ll see what comes of the 391.
Mr.....I feel like an idiot lol. I have a newer MS saw that will oil unless the bar is on it, iv messed with it a few times and remember wondering wow the helll that part worked free spinning... I've been using my old 028 for like 3 years because of it Thanks for the knolage
I’m rebuilding a 021. It’s over oiling, is it possible that I have installed the oiler in to far? How far should it go in. Where does the oiler meet the worm gear?
I might have just the problem you’re describing with my MS251, but I can’t get below the wheel: it just wont come off as it turns with the axis. How can I stop the axis from turning without damaging it?
After working on small engines and chainsaws for over 23 years, I have found that most oil pump driver failures can be traced back to using poor quality bar oil at low temperatures. the oil is too thick which causes too much resistance and strips the driver or pump gear. I have seen some oil almost refuse to pour from the bottle at low temperatures. 30W oil with the pour point of 140W gear lube.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 82 วันนี้!! คู่เอก | ยอดไอคิว vs อับดัลลาห์](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hSsyTl_9bqs/mqdefault.jpg)
Watch my video here on why most Stihl chainsaws leak bar oil; th-cam.com/video/rl-9PnXMDK4/w-d-xo.html
Thank you Donyboy73. This is a great explanation. You are absolutely the most clear, concise, objective presenter I have ever found.
Watching this video should be a prerequisite for people that are going to add "how to" or repair tip videos to TH-cam. Quick, to the point and easy to understand info with no extra b.s. Thank you!
Both my brother’s and my MS-261 chainsaws’ oiling system failed when brand-new. Both saws were serviced by dealers with a thick Echo chain oil (red) at delivery. The part you are talking about on this video is designed to slip to protect the oiling system (i.e. debris clogging the bar outlet). I suspect that if everyone used correct viscosity of chain oil this would not be an issue. Noticed your saw that was repaired looked to have some red dye in the oil (Echo chain oil). I use Stihl bar and chain oil exclusively which is a totally different viscosity.
I have learned more about outdoor power equipment maintenance by watching your channel for the last couple of years that I had learned in my life before. I'm 70 years old now.
Me too. He's a great teacher.
That was as enjoyable as it was informative. You have an excellent speaking voice and perfect delivery.
Thanks for showing how the oil pump works,very clear video many thanks .
You're doing a good thing sharing all these tips and your knowledge with us, Don. Many thanks.
This happened to me today. 029 was intermittently oiling. Either bone dry or working fine. No leaks in oil pick up line, cleaned out the reservoir just in case there was debris, and checked plastic bit that goes between the pump and the body. It turned out to be the oil worm gear. Replaced for $20 and was on my way. Thank you for posting this.
Thank you DonyBoy, a very helpful and informative video. I have been having oiling issues for a long time and thought I had it nailed with your video. But when I took the clutch apart I discovered that the oiler was not loose as shown in your video. Instead, it seems like the sprocket or the clutch drum is too small, leaving about a 16th inch of wiggle room. Thus, when the clutch is engaged, the clutch drum simply lifts away from the oiler. Have you ever heard of anything like this? All I can think of is that the wrong part was installed by the manufacturer. I'm considering just purchasing a replacement clutch drum and seeing if it fits better.
I can't tell you how helpful your diy videos are. Explaining it clear with patience. Thanks.👍
Thank you for the clear and concise explanation. My MS261 just stopped oiling yesterday. Now I have an idea what to address.
You do a great job explaining these situations and are appreciated by us DIY guys.
Thank you...
Another great one! Thank you! I only run stihl and do have issues and continue to keep them maintained. Meaning taking it to the mechanic 45 minutes away. I wish I had the time to work on them more. I do mostly everything now. Still learning. What brands do you see less of??? Meaning the better brand, haha, that you recommend for my small lawn care business. We do cut small trees and limbs. Thanks for the tips!! Ms170 16 inch is my favorite of my 4 chainsaws.
yes the small ms170,180 are great little saws
This is awesome my 261 is just starting to not oil the bar and chain thanks for the video
Thank you for this video. I'm a hero now I fixed our 441 by watching this video. My boss was ready to go buy a new 500i which wouldn't have been a bad thing but I manage to save a couple thousand dollars by swapping this piece. This was so much fun to do as well maybe its time I take a small engine mechanics course. As an arborist who uses saws everyday it would be very useful. 😊
Thank you for actually making a decent video. Trying to look it up and get some info but every other videos were just cleaning a clogged oiler. 👍👍👍
Hey there Dony!!! Great video again buddy!!! The only oiling problem I have had is on a Troy Built Saw. The oil pump was damaged and I can't find a replacement. Other than that, I enjoy watching you make repairs each week and you have saved me many times!!! Thanks!!! Take care!!
Thank you sir. You saved me hours of troubleshooting my MS461.
This guy must be a biker , clear concise explanation, no “hi guys “ life story BS - GO CANADA !,,,
A true expert at work right here. Thanks Don!
Good video Don, I have had my Stihl 017 since 1999, and thanks to this video it will continue to see good service.
Thanks again Donny Boy, you are saving me a bundel on gas and trips to the repair shop.
What a cheap part. Especially on a "pro" saw. Wow
Good fix tho Don. Well done 👏
A long time logger recently switched to Husqvarna - loves it..
are Husqvarnas putting out better quality?
The husqvarna OEM parts are more expensive that a Stihl, but last time when I check the air filter for husqvarna are made in Japan.
Yep switched back to Husqvarnas...getting away from Stahls...
Too much oil is my problem on a 260 but I saw 'Steve' point out that there was an oil hole right beside the exhaust which could and or should, be blocked off... This is interesting because I always seem to find at the start of a new season, a huge amount of gungy black oil appears here and yet over a little time and use, the problem eases right up... Recommendation is to get part 0000 953 1001 a set screw and to close up this oil hole.... How do you see this problem? Perhaps you've spoken of this before but I've yet to see... Thank you for your excellent videos as always.... Very well done every single one of them.
It dont surprise me in the least that the parts are getting cheaper and cheaper with time thank you for letting the general public know I have a 026 im assuming its the same but now I have some guidance and will delve in this weekend
One of the best professional videos I've ever
Good video. You might check bar first (unlike I did) first because it can be clogged at the port resulting in no oil.
Thank you for getting to the point and not wasting my time. Great video donyboy73
I have subscribed to your channel many years ago. Thank you for all your help. You have saved me a small fortune.
Great information. Thank you. Can you do a video to how to lock the clutch for DYI'ers like me?
Great video, I have a Stihl MS391, I'm guessing that mine will have the same issue. I totally cleaned everything and still no oil comes out. Thanks for sharing
Very helpful! Thank you for the video. I have an MS260 which I assume may be near identical.
Sound's like a job for JB weld
Excellent helpful video! I did have a question before I dig into this issue and troubleshoot. There is some sort of oil filter that I see at the bottom of the galley of the tank for the oil. Could it be that this is just clogged with oil, if so, how would I fix this easily?
Very informative. Advice on (MS261C) if the oil quantity control screw is stripped, do you need to replace the oil pump for the fix. Now pumping a lot of oil. Would like to reduce flow.
That is a great video and tip on that model saw and I have a MS 250 chainsaw and is still working with getting it to crank for me, but don't have the oiling problem yet. You must have save many people time and money by viewing your videos and getting their own equipment working themselves. After the problem I had with my Stihl saw I swore never to buy another one and got a Poulan Pro saw and have the same problem with it too. The Poulan saw had to go to the repair shop after getting it home and the company paid to have the defective carburetor changed out and it is collecting dust along with the Stihl saw. I purchased a battery saw from the Poulan company and it works great though.
battery powered chainsaw is the way to go from small projects
I wonder if the MS500i has the same design 🤔
I agree. An expensive top brand should be made with quality. As they cheapen their equipment folks will begin to purchase less expensive saws which will last about as long. Thanks for sharing.
I am an older adult. I have enjoyed watching all of your videos and learning how to make some repairs. As I'm retires I'm going to start doing some work. I have a little technical knowledge from the auto industry. Acquiring the correct manuals and specs would help as I proceed. I'm not on any social media though so I can't contact you that way. Keep up your thorough instruction....I'll keep watching.
Piston stop demonstration would be helpful as well..... great video with useful information..... thank you
Basically you get the piston about half way up so no ports are exposed and stuff a rope into the spark plug hole.
@@feez357 Thank you so much .
Thank you, I think this might be my problem with my 38 Magnum oiler. This video is very helpful!
Great vid Dony I have that problem right now. 7 dislikes don't understand that.
jealous youtubers but that's ok
Thanks I have thissaw and having an oiling problem. Big help
Thanks. I think that may be one of many problems on my saw. Did not know about this part.
Fantastic vid. Clear explanation making me feel like I can investigate myself. I wonder how much they would charge at a shop for this?
thanks man! we bought a new oil pump not knowing this!! now that ive seen this i know what to check!next ha ha
I love your concise videos. No mindless chatter like most. For fixers by a fixer.
Great info! Do you happen to know if the 241 also uses this part?
Excellent info. Thanks you present the video clearly. Cheers from NZ.
I have a brand new 261 and think this might be my issue. Mine is giving some oil out, but even after completely cleaning everything out and making sure nothing is blocked, and the oiler is turned to full open, i'm barely getting anything. My guess is this part is just not fully grabbing as it should. I probably have 3-4 hours on the saw at most, and mostly light to moderate cutting.
Same here in Maryland
Thanks from Australia. Very helpful
If I were a manufacturer, I'd be terrified every time you posted a new video.
Hi. Thank you for showing this. If there is a little oil coming out, but not enought could this part be the problem or does it totally stop oil from coming out if this is broken?
Just the info I needed. Had this same issue with my neighbors Stihil. Thanks, nice clear video as usual 👌
Does this ever happen on brand new chainsaws. I just picked up a 251C. The chain seems dry It doesn't seem like it's getting as much oil as it should.
Excellent informational video, thankyou so much, you saved me alot of worry/stress about damaging my chain & bar. 👌👍🇦🇺
Terrific instructions and knowledge. Thank you!!❤
Excellent video with all the right details and right to the point, no time wasted. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Nice and intuitive video! Thanks.
Quick question. Do I need to clean the clutch chamber and clutch itself, since it's dirty? I tend to use brake cleaner. Is that harmful in any way?
Smooth as always Dony.
I am going to call it , a part designed to fail for service/parts manufacturers revenue........$$$
thanks Don, we never know to much about chainsaws and farm , yard gear. thanks so much . :) dang it , simple solutions , make good sense .
Thank you very much for your excellent advice and knowledge much appreciated
Excellent video and explanation. One of the best
I wonder if you could drill a small hole through the plastic flange and metal c clip and put a roll pin through it and run it
I have a ms362 with same problem, replaced oil pump, it has burnt up 25 inch chains, drilled out Oiler hole in bar, no help, changed oil pump ,again replaced with a pump of from bigger saw. ( took advice from arborists site). Didn’t work. When running saw with 25 inch bar. It uses less than a half of tank of bar oil, and ruins chain. And no the chain isn’t to tight
I own a dozen pieces of Stihl equipment, and have used their stuff almost exclusively for 25 years. But a $125 Chinese saw I bought on eBay is sure giving my fancy Stihl top-handle saws a run for the money. It is pathetic that Stihl doesn’t have the balls to directly respond to excellent videos like this to explain precisely what is being done about reliability issues with their equipment. Dony has also done a top-notch vid about another lousy Stihl design: the “tool less” oil and fuel caps on many of their saws.
Man I was thinking these things cost way too much to find ourself on here chasing demons. Already had the little plastic gear pawl deal for the pull chord go bad twice. Saw is 3 years old
Nice work! Can you show how to modify a 660 oiler to increase oil flow when the screw is all the way in?
what can you use if you dont have a piston stop without damaging the engine thanks for all you do👍
th-cam.com/video/WW61DRBpVIs/w-d-xo.html
Hey Don. Have an EGO cordless chainsaw and I have had it cutting exceptionally well ... and then not. I am good about sharpening the blade, and on numerous occasions I have cleaned the oil passage and blew out the bar grooves and oil slots and removed all cutting debris. I tried removing the chain and blade and ran the chainsaw. Oil flowed, albeit oozing slowly but I thought that was because it was cold out. Will a chainsaw oiler function if it is cold? And how cold? So, I put the chain back on ... in right direction, started it and spun blade in front of a log and did not see oil residue. What do you think? Brought chainsaw inside overnight and went out to try it. No. Even tried loosening the oil cap to see if it would release a "vacuum" if there was one.
BTW EGO's customer service is outsourced BS. I have many EGO tools, but I am ready to jump ship because I cannot rely on their "Non" Customer Service! No wonder Home Depot cancelled their contract. Try going to an Ace Hardware and they have a half-dozen items (no space) and you'll talk to some knucklehead who has no understanding of the product.
Are the parts the same on SM251? Please let me know. Thank you!
Good to know. My Stihl has been a good saw for many years.
Will check this out, thanks for the suggestion
yep just did one today on a 026C
Can you show the difference between a good clutch drum and a worn out one?
Had this issue every once in awhile on my MS250C I bought brand new, after a refill of oil I had no oil at bar? Had it happen twice and took it back under warranty, dealer could not find anything wrong, had the saw for about 10 years now. Every once in awhile it will still do it, usually removing the full cap and pulling the bar will fix the issue, never really investigated it further since it was sporadic, yes Stihl products have definetly gotten cheaper compared to my 1971 O20 AVP that’s still running
I have that saw and that problem. Thank you so much!
Hey Don, thanks for all you do for us peeps! My farm boss 271 doesn't use as much oil as it did when new, could it be that part starting to go bad? I have cleaned out the oil passages, no change!👍🏻✌🏻️
check for an adjusting screw
@@donyboy73 the 271 doesn't have an adjustment screw. It's an "automatic" system. Currently having problems with it myself.
@@jtreadwell9173same problem with 271
After troubleshooting my ms170 the first thing I would check is turn the saw upside down and Rev up the saw and check for oil at the oil hole. If you get oil then it's most likely your hose is cracked.
Learned a few things there! Thanks 👍
One if the groups I volunteer with recently got two new saws, an MS261 C-M, on a 16” bar, which at the moment is good but then it’s done perhaps just over 1.5hrs.
But their new MS391 on a 20inch bar, has done less than an hour and already has ceased oiling, is stalling and once hot, will only start on full throttle, (as if starting a flooding engine). The 391 has only had Aspen 2 in it and the carb has been adjusted by the qualified operator but the bottom end still bogs. The air filter is clean and in good condition.
Now the operator that the saw was given to, could investigate this, that and the other and maybe spend out on parts if needed. But considering the saw has less than an hour on it, it’s going back to the dealer as a rejected buy. Whether the dealer gives them a partial refund or fixes it, is up to the dealer. But the operator who’d been given to believe, he’d be receiving an MS400 C-M and was a little surprised, has lost faith in the 391. Also, he’d prepped by buying a few spares for a 400, which are now surplus to requirement.
He’s not a happy bunny and has gone back to the other operator’s old MS261. That saw is 5-6yrs. old and is running well. It had a minor erratic starting issue 6mths. back but a new plug solved it. The operator of the old and new 261s, said the 391 operator, would only get the newer 261, if prised from her cold dead hands. We’ll see what comes of the 391.
I learn so much from Donyboy thank you.
Real nice video. Do you know witch else Sthil saws use the same oiler? Best regards from a cold Sweden
Mr.....I feel like an idiot lol. I have a newer MS saw that will oil unless the bar is on it, iv messed with it a few times and remember wondering wow the helll that part worked free spinning... I've been using my old 028 for like 3 years because of it
Thanks for the knolage
Great job, thanks for all the tips.
cool I was wondering about my ms 261 the oil hole was plug up with chips I cleaned it still now oil coming out I hope its this part
Thx a lot for this very good information. I am sure this will solve my clutch problem. Regards.
So in emergency run some sewing tread into gap and superglue in
Good luck at 13k it won't last long...
Great video that was easy to understand.
I really enjoy your videos by the way. Very easy to follow and understand.
Thanks for making this video. Watched now, needed in the future
I have a MS260 that sends out bar oil like it gets paid by the ounce. What’s your advice? MS260. Non adjustable oiler. Should I just upgrade?
I’m rebuilding a 021. It’s over oiling, is it possible that I have installed the oiler in to far? How far should it go in. Where does the oiler meet the worm gear?
Thanks for an excellent video - it will be really useful when I come to service my chainsaw!
Thank you so much for the explanation!
I might have just the problem you’re describing with my MS251, but I can’t get below the wheel: it just wont come off as it turns with the axis. How can I stop the axis from turning without damaging it?
After working on small engines and chainsaws for over 23 years, I have found that most oil pump driver failures can be traced back to using poor quality bar oil at low temperatures. the oil is too thick which causes too much resistance and strips the driver or pump gear. I have seen some oil almost refuse to pour from the bottle at low temperatures. 30W oil with the pour point of 140W gear lube.
Thanks for the help, going replace mine soon!!
Glad I could help!
Thank you for sharing again DB73. Stay safe out there ol Buddy !!!.