I've watched many other repair videos. This one is the most comprehensive and complete that I have seen. All parts of the procedure were explained in great detail. I will be using Jim as my source for repair videos from now on. Thanks Jim
Got some Centric posi quiet brakes for my 2014 elantra. Video helped and no noise after. Rear is all is left to do (ran out of time today). In case anyone was wondering, the ones I got were CENTRIC 10515440 (rear) and CENTRIC 10515430 (front) from rockauto. Fronts are bigger and heavier. I would say they are very quiet brakes. I did the grease as shown in the video and used CRC non-chlorinated brake cleaner and that works well to clean up the dirt and grease.
Thanks for this man. Just did all 4 on my 2013 since I'm giving it to my son so I can get a new car. One of the slide pins was sticking in the rear left (the top one), but I managed to get it out and didn't damage the seal. First time replacing the brakes and rotors 55k miles on it. A little irresponsible of me, but back on track thanks to you Jim!
Outstanding! I've taken notes, and am gathering the tools to service my son's Elantra. Very comprehensive instruction set and visuals. Thank you so much for your sharing. You are an inspiration to the TH-cam community in your sharing your knowledge and experience.
Excellent video, Jim was clear in his instructions along with showing the correct camera angles. Great Job! I am replacing my daughters brakes on her Elantra tomorrow and he just saved me a lot of time because I know exactly what to do. Thanks!
I had never attempted brakes before and your excellent and detailed explanation and clear video made this such an easy task. You saved me a ton of money on what the dealer would have charged me. So thanks again.
Thank you, Jim, for all the time/effort that you put into this video. I found this information to be the best source of information in helping me to organize and successfully complete replacement of front and rear brakes on my 2014 Hyundai Elantra.
Jim this video was very helpful. I do have one question. When you said you had to check the torque setting for the bolt. What was the torque amount, how were you able to find it, and which bolt the 14mm or the 17mm bolt on the caliper?
Great video. Covered everything step by step by what a REAL shop or yourself should do, I am actually suprised it has dislikes. This covers every step for a full on brake job.
Thank you for watching . Yes what I have learned after so may years is that you can't please everyone but thats OK. I'm happy to help. Don't forget to subscribe.
I used to change brakes when I was young, a long time ago and so I was very familiar with the process. This video was super. Jim covered every single detail, didn't rush anything and provided some alternatives to tools and some of the potential gotchas! Thank you for the great refresher as I am going to start working on all my family's brakes, to save a fortune.
Thank you Jim! Ive done a few brake jobs before but there were a few differences with this car that i had to come to you to figure it out. Again, thank you!
That was a great video, and I enjoyed how you changed all the hardware, and having the required results. After changing the brake pads and hardware on a 87 S-10 Blazer I felt like I could do the same on any vehicle. Your video showed all that one should do, and I will remember it when I work on one of my other vehicles.
suggest you put anti seize on hubs after cleaning rust off to stop water from creating more rust will make cleaning 2nd time easier and will stop rust from pushing on rotors and making vibrations .zinc coated rotors best in Canada to prevent rust
Exelent and detailed your explanation. I have work in my Accent 2012 and this and my are most likely the same. today I needed to remember a few details and you realy showed me more than what I expected. Thanks
I just replaced my rotors and breaks in my 2014 Hyundia Elantra and the rear break pads barely slide in the new hardware and caliper bracket and is extremely tight fit. Is this normal for these cars to fit tight like that because I noticed that your car also doesn’t have those break pin/springs to hold open the breaks so they don’t constantly rub on the rotors. Are the breaks supposed to be touching the rotors as part of the bedding process? Or should I grind down my pads so that they can slide freely in the caliper bracket. (I also noticed that the old breaks were also tight in the caliper and did not slide freely in the brackets at all and I had to pry them out )
I have changed pads on sonata and didn’t take brackets out at all… is this different on Elantra? Also I didn’t use a crawl bar to push in piston instead I pushed it in after with a clam…. Do these 2 methods need to be in Elantra? Any help is appropriated…
Great video...loved it...I just tried my 2013 elantra gt and for the life of me, the new pads were so damn tight to put in. Have you ever needed to grind or file down to fit (or at least ensure they can move freely)?
Excellent video Sr. thanks for your support. Could you give me an advice what kind of rotors and pads can I buy for my Hyundai Elantra gls 2013 There are differents name of companies but I don't know which one is better for my car. Thank you so much.
Excellent and detailed video! Thanks for providing. My only question, should we put anti seize on the 14 and 17 mm caliber bolts and between the axel and caliper?
Hi Jim i have a 2013 elantra im gonna change the rear caliper when i call napa for a new caliper they told me to bring the old one What comes with a new caliper do u get the bracket and what about the banjo bolt does the copper washer come with the new caliper
Hey just wanted to say thanks for the help! First time replacing the brakes on my 2012 Hyundai accent by myself (same brakes basically). The tips for the Phillips screws and the needle-nose pliers trick were a real life saver! I was really struggling with the rear brakes until I watched this video.
@@jimthecarguy The rotor screws were a real bear! I actually twisted the bit on the impact driver I bought especially for this job, similar to the one you used in the video. I was able to get the last screw using an air chisel....
Goot Lort you don't know how long it took me to figure out the rear piston turned. Ruint my piston tool trying to push it in. Thank the Lort for TH-cam! Found another video with a cheat to get the piston all the way out to inspect, just kept pumping the brakes. Duh..... Used a pair of channel locks to turn it back in.
Thanks for another great video, almost gave up because I couldn't figure out how to get the piston back. Decided to check your video and saw the rear has screw in pistons..Plus making sure the notch aligns with the post on the inside pad at 27:47 ....Thanks again!!
Hey Jim, Regarding the front pistons. Is there a need to push them back in? I see you did the rear one where you had to twist and push clockwise but I didn't see you push in the front pistons. Is this needed?
I think I found my answer. Apparently if the front ones are not pushes in, the front pads won't install correctly and likely will not be able to put everything back into place. Thanks for showing a how to.
jimthecarguy hey man you're awesome thanks for the great video you can't imagine how helpful this has been so far I haven't quite done the job yet but I'm on my way I'm just going to get some synthetic brake grease right now
Great video on this model but yeah flush the brake fluid, being it's hygroscopic water does leech into the system through the brake lines. You are also introducing fresh inhibitors that prevent rust.
brake fluid does break down, and it should be replaced. Especially since you're already this far into the brake system. Other than that great video. Well detailed.
Hey Jim, what was the sound like that it was making? The right front? I never heard the noise you mentioned? I’m wondering if my Elantra has the same issue?
hello i changed my pads and rotors in 2016 and again in 2017 and now again i have to change..at 32k and 40k and now 55k km..each time always same thing..pads are seaized because no grease enuff why???...the mecanic said he greased each time...Lisa
Watched this video since I am planning on replacing my brakes on my elantra, after I just did this to my Nissan Xterra, after the brake job on the xterra, wish I knew ahead of time about the burning smell and smoke, freaked me out wondering if my truck was on fire lol.
Jim - that driver is actually a pin punch. You got pin punches, drift punches, starter punches, and roll pin punches. I know all this stuff because I used to read the tool catalogs for entertainment before there was an internet. :-D
I would not make a good mechanic. I would need to clean all those parts with brake cleaner, sand blast and then paint those calipers a nice silver or black so they look new. I would also wind cleaning the wheel well as well. No offense but this job is easy, brakes and rotors are cheap and garages typically over charged like crazy for this...
what's amazing is the brakes can cost you no more for this kind of car at low as $40 to $75 for front and rear. Shops charge way to much for labor. If you know someone that knows how to do this, I do, it makes it much simpler.
You goofed. You need to siphon some brake fluid before compressing the calipers or it will overflow in the well under the hood.. As brake fluid is highly corrosive it can damage anything underneath it. Once you siphon fluid, compress your caliper pistons, then after finishing the job crank up and press your pedal 2 or 3 times until it is firm. Then top off you fluid.
Don't siphon all of your fluid, only enough to keep it from overflowing as you compress the pistons. If you drain it all, then you have to go through the hassle of bleeding all the air bubbles out of your brake system.
@@ewingent1 if you top off brake fluid as the pad/fluid level gets low. Then i agree with you as resetting the pistons on an already topped of system will cause it to over flow out the master cylinder. Other wise if the system is not topped off then this is not necessary.
hello i changed my pads and rotors in 2016 and again in 2017 and now again i have to change..at 32k and 40k and now 55k km..each time always same thing..pads are seaized because no grease enuff why???...the mecanic said he greased each time...Lisa
hello thxz for the reply, i guess i will never know, but after watching many vids, i did have an independant garage do just that about a month ago with the same pads and rotors, which have now about 10K of KM left becuz of the previous garage work, but i will be sure to ask that to be done again when i have to replace the brakes after 10k KM ....not sure why greasing and lubrication of the small metal parts and or replacement of clips wasnt done for me multiple times ..Lisa
Best video by far explaining the procedure. This should be the first video in the list TH-cam shows when this repair is searched.
I've watched many other repair videos. This one is the most comprehensive and complete that I have seen. All parts of the procedure were explained in great detail. I will be using Jim as my source for repair videos from now on. Thanks Jim
Got some Centric posi quiet brakes for my 2014 elantra. Video helped and no noise after. Rear is all is left to do (ran out of time today). In case anyone was wondering, the ones I got were CENTRIC 10515440 (rear) and CENTRIC 10515430 (front) from rockauto. Fronts are bigger and heavier. I would say they are very quiet brakes. I did the grease as shown in the video and used CRC non-chlorinated brake cleaner and that works well to clean up the dirt and grease.
Thanks for watching
@@jimthecarguy woukd regular needle nose pliers also work or be wide enough to grab the rear piston to twist and push in?
@@amb7247 Yes they will work but with the correct tool it will much easier.Thank for watching
Aaron Brown You get rotors, too?
Thanks for this man. Just did all 4 on my 2013 since I'm giving it to my son so I can get a new car. One of the slide pins was sticking in the rear left (the top one), but I managed to get it out and didn't damage the seal. First time replacing the brakes and rotors 55k miles on it. A little irresponsible of me, but back on track thanks to you Jim!
Outstanding! I've taken notes, and am gathering the tools to service my son's Elantra. Very comprehensive instruction set and visuals. Thank you so much for your sharing. You are an inspiration to the TH-cam community in your sharing your knowledge and experience.
Excellent video, Jim was clear in his instructions along with showing the correct camera angles. Great Job! I am replacing my daughters brakes on her Elantra tomorrow and he just saved me a lot of time because I know exactly what to do. Thanks!
I had never attempted brakes before and your excellent and detailed explanation and clear video made this such an easy task. You saved me a ton of money on what the dealer would have charged me. So thanks again.
Lee Ash great job thanks for watching
Thank you, Jim, for all the time/effort that you put into this video.
I found this information to be the best source of information in helping me to organize and successfully complete replacement of front and rear brakes on my 2014 Hyundai Elantra.
Jim, thank you very much! You just saved me 400USD!
Jim this video was very helpful. I do have one question. When you said you had to check the torque setting for the bolt. What was the torque amount, how were you able to find it, and which bolt the 14mm or the 17mm bolt on the caliper?
I've used my impact driver a few times and when you need it, it's a handy tool for sure. Your very good at explaining the process Jim.
Great video. Covered everything step by step by what a REAL shop or yourself should do, I am actually suprised it has dislikes. This covers every step for a full on brake job.
Thank you for watching . Yes what I have learned after so may years is that you can't please everyone but thats OK. I'm happy to help. Don't forget to subscribe.
I used to change brakes when I was young, a long time ago and so I was very familiar with the process. This video was super. Jim covered every single detail, didn't rush anything and provided some alternatives to tools and some of the potential gotchas! Thank you for the great refresher as I am going to start working on all my family's brakes, to save a fortune.
excellent video.
can you also list the toque specifications on those bolts?
you looked them up but didn't state them.
Thank you Jim for teaching us how to do it the right way...
You are very welcome
Clearest, plain spoken easy to follow video I have seen. Thanks!
This video was amazing! I have never done any work on a car, not even changed the oil, but I feel like I could do this!
Great video,well explained but I noticed he wasn't careful about smudging grease all over the new pads.
Great point! After it was done I clean them down with brake cleaner.
Wow. Easy to understand, and complete. Thanks so much, Jim!
Excellent job walking us through the process, I appreciate the recap of what was done. You are a great teacher!
Glad it was helpful!
Thread locker on 17 millimeter (when changing rototrs) and 14 milimiter when changing break pads is a must and save life!
Thank you Jim! Ive done a few brake jobs before but there were a few differences with this car that i had to come to you to figure it out. Again, thank you!
Bill Hammer happy to help thank you for stopping by the shop
Great video. Good camera work and sound. It was super easy to follow and I was able to do brake pads on my 2013 Elantra. Thanks!
Thanks for watching.
Can you use a impact driver to get those Phillips head screws out.
keep up the good work jim well done and thank you Im watching you ll the way from the middle east .
That was a great video, and I enjoyed how you changed all the hardware, and having the required results. After changing the brake pads and hardware on a 87 S-10 Blazer I felt like I could do the same on any vehicle. Your video showed all that one should do, and I will remember it when I work on one of my other vehicles.
Thank you for stopping by the shop Sidney
Will brake pads that "was" on old rotors effect new replaced rotors? In other-words, will the older brake pads damage new rotors?
The best stopping Elantra in the tri-state area Jim!
Do you have the torque specs for the Hyundai Elantra rotor screws, 14mm, & 17mm bolts? And is the 14mm rear bolts the same torque as the front?
suggest you put anti seize on hubs after cleaning rust off to stop water from creating more rust will make cleaning 2nd time easier and will stop rust from pushing on rotors and making vibrations .zinc coated rotors best in Canada to prevent rust
Thank you for watching. Watch for the next free tool giveaway coming soon.
Exelent and detailed your explanation. I have work in my Accent 2012 and this and my are most likely the same. today I needed to remember a few details and you realy showed me more than what I expected. Thanks
I just replaced my rotors and breaks in my 2014 Hyundia Elantra and the rear break pads barely slide in the new hardware and caliper bracket and is extremely tight fit. Is this normal for these cars to fit tight like that because I noticed that your car also doesn’t have those break pin/springs to hold open the breaks so they don’t constantly rub on the rotors. Are the breaks supposed to be touching the rotors as part of the bedding process? Or should I grind down my pads so that they can slide freely in the caliper bracket. (I also noticed that the old breaks were also tight in the caliper and did not slide freely in the brackets at all and I had to pry them out )
Thank you for showing the needle nose trick on the rear caliper! I thought I was in trouble when I took the rear brake pads out haha
It does work but be careful not to stab yourself.Lol
I have changed pads on sonata and didn’t take brackets out at all… is this different on Elantra?
Also I didn’t use a crawl bar to push in piston instead I pushed it in after with a clam…. Do these 2 methods need to be in Elantra?
Any help is appropriated…
Great video...loved it...I just tried my 2013 elantra gt and for the life of me, the new pads were so damn tight to put in. Have you ever needed to grind or file down to fit (or at least ensure they can move freely)?
Did you remove the brake hardware clips and clean the rust under them? That is the problem most of the time.
Jim, that was great....what about how to adjust the parking brake, especially in my case if the calipers were also changed?
This was super helpful for my 2012 Elantra. Wish I’d watched this before I stripped the screws in one of the rotor. 🤦♂️
Thanks for watching. Did you get the screw out?
Excellent video Sr. thanks for your support. Could you give me an advice what kind of rotors and pads can I buy for my Hyundai Elantra gls 2013
There are differents name of companies but I don't know which one is better for my car. Thank you so much.
The brake pads I use at the shop are Monroe or Wagner
Excellent and detailed video! Thanks for providing. My only question, should we put anti seize on the 14 and 17 mm caliber bolts and between the axel and caliper?
Hi Jim i have a 2013 elantra im gonna change the rear caliper when i call napa for a new caliper they told me to bring the old one
What comes with a new caliper do u get the bracket and what about the banjo bolt does the copper washer come with the new caliper
Hey just wanted to say thanks for the help! First time replacing the brakes on my 2012 Hyundai accent by myself (same brakes basically). The tips for the Phillips screws and the needle-nose pliers trick were a real life saver! I was really struggling with the rear brakes until I watched this video.
Nice work and very nice video. I'm doing my son's Elantra this weekend.
Thanks for watching.I'm happy to help. Don't forget to hit the bell for notifications when a new video is posted
@@jimthecarguy The rotor screws were a real bear! I actually twisted the bit on the impact driver I bought especially for this job, similar to the one you used in the video. I was able to get the last screw using an air chisel....
Goot Lort you don't know how long it took me to figure out the rear piston turned. Ruint my piston tool trying to push it in. Thank the Lort for TH-cam!
Found another video with a cheat to get the piston all the way out to inspect, just kept pumping the brakes. Duh.....
Used a pair of channel locks to turn it back in.
Thanks for another great video, almost gave up because I couldn't figure out how to get the piston back. Decided to check your video and saw the rear has screw in pistons..Plus making sure the notch aligns with the post on the inside pad at 27:47 ....Thanks again!!
Steven Vega great I'm happy to help
What is the torque values once you reinstall everything?
They also make a socket wrench attachment for the rear brake caliper piston. It's a few dollars and much easier than pliers.
thank you for your awesome video! What kind of silicone lubricant is this?
I use synthetic brake lube made by CRC.Thank you for stopping by the shop
is there a link you can provide for the phillips driver release tool you use to take out those phillips screws on rotor
A-Z Tech sorry no but I'm sure you can find it on amazon
lmgtfy.com/?q=impact+screwdriver
Hey Jim,
Regarding the front pistons. Is there a need to push them back in? I see you did the rear one where you had to twist and push clockwise but I didn't see you push in the front pistons. Is this needed?
I think I found my answer. Apparently if the front ones are not pushes in, the front pads won't install correctly and likely will not be able to put everything back into place. Thanks for showing a how to.
Is the parking brake set during tbis process ?
Tito Martin No the parking brake is off. Thank you for watching the video.
jimthecarguy hey man you're awesome thanks for the great video you can't imagine how helpful this has been so far I haven't quite done the job yet but I'm on my way I'm just going to get some synthetic brake grease right now
Tito Martin Thank you for watching and let me know how you made out.
Hey me again.. perfect video
Seriously consider yourself a useful auto guy
Great video on this model but yeah flush the brake fluid, being it's hygroscopic water does leech into the system through the brake lines. You are also introducing fresh inhibitors that prevent rust.
thank you ill do it the same way you did a professional job
brake fluid does break down, and it should be replaced. Especially since you're already this far into the brake system. Other than that great video. Well detailed.
Thank you for your input and for watching.
So did he change the hardware in the caliper?
sorry i ment the cage in the caliper.
thanks a million for this in depth video!
Thank you for watching
Is it same for 2018 ??
Yes it is the same.
Would like to know the torque specs as well
What to do when the rotor with new brakes shows black marks on the rotor after test drives ?.
I turned the piston back in only about 1 turn, is that enough? My parking brake light is always on now. Brakes work as normal though.
Awesome video, how do you know you need new rotors?
Excellent video man!! Step by step and clear.. thank you so much. I'm subscribing!
thanks that twisting i didnt know, was going to buy a new one!!
Thanks for watching . I'm happy to help.
Hey Jim, what was the sound like that it was making? The right front? I never heard the noise you mentioned? I’m wondering if my Elantra has the same issue?
hello i changed my pads and rotors in 2016 and again in 2017 and now
again i have to change..at 32k and 40k and now 55k km..each time always
same thing..pads are seaized because no grease enuff why???...the
mecanic said he greased each time...Lisa
Did he replace the hardware clips and clean the rust under the old hardware?
Thank you for the vid. I feel more confident I can get this job done. 🙏
Thanks for watching.
Awesome video only problem is he forgot to put the metal spacer/clip on the back of the inner brake pad Other than that awesome video
They are actually bonded to the new pads so the old ones are to be thrown out. Thanks for watching.
Oh ok thanks great vid
Watched this video since I am planning on replacing my brakes on my elantra, after I just did this to my Nissan Xterra, after the brake job on the xterra, wish I knew ahead of time about the burning smell and smoke, freaked me out wondering if my truck was on fire lol.
Thanks for watching.
Gotta say thanks, this vid helped a lot.
Jim - that driver is actually a pin punch. You got pin punches, drift punches, starter punches, and roll pin punches. I know all this stuff because I used to read the tool catalogs for entertainment before there was an internet. :-D
Thank you for stopping by the shop.
Torque specs??
Don’t you clean the caliper bracket so the break pads slide better
Thanks for watching.
Superb Job & very well explained !
Thanks a lot Professor Jim!
I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to hit the bell for notifications when a new video is posted.
thank you very much it was very interesting and informative .
RICKARDO MOSES Thanks for watching, appreciate the comment.
Excellent video! Super informative. Thanks.
thanks :) happy new year
Another good video Jim.
Glen Harper thank you for stopping by the shop
Thanks for this video
I use a c clamp to push them back in.
Excelente video . Gracias
Good job Jim!
Thanks for watching.
You're the man, Jim!
Great vlog here
Very well done sir. Thank you.
Nice video thanks 👍
Thank you for watching . I'm happy to help. Don't forget to subscribe.
Informative, thanks for the video!
Thank you for stopping by the shop.
good job jim.
Brilliant instruction
Thanks for watching.
Thanks so much !!
Exlent video sr.
Thank you for watching . I'm happy to help. Don't forget to subscribe.
Thank u sire
Thanks for watching.
I would not make a good mechanic. I would need to clean all those parts with brake cleaner, sand blast and then paint those calipers a nice silver or black so they look new. I would also wind cleaning the wheel well as well. No offense but this job is easy, brakes and rotors are cheap and garages typically over charged like crazy for this...
what's amazing is the brakes can cost you no more for this kind of car at low as $40 to $75 for front and rear. Shops charge way to much for labor. If you know someone that knows how to do this, I do, it makes it much simpler.
@@amb7247 Pads + Rotors front and rear, $300.
Awesome..thanks
ROD VAN thanks for watching I'm happy to help
I don't understand why you were changing the rotor. Doesn't look like there's anything wrong with it.
You goofed. You need to siphon some brake fluid before compressing the calipers or it will overflow in the well under the hood.. As brake fluid is highly corrosive it can damage anything underneath it. Once you siphon fluid, compress your caliper pistons, then after finishing the job crank up and press your pedal 2 or 3 times until it is firm. Then top off you fluid.
Don't siphon all of your fluid, only enough to keep it from overflowing as you compress the pistons. If you drain it all, then you have to go through the hassle of bleeding all the air bubbles out of your brake system.
@@ewingent1 if you top off brake fluid as the pad/fluid level gets low. Then i agree with you as resetting the pistons on an already topped of system will cause it to over flow out the master cylinder. Other wise if the system is not topped off then this is not necessary.
Might want to wear a mask jim the asbestos in them pads can kill.
hello i changed my pads and rotors in 2016 and again in 2017 and now
again i have to change..at 32k and 40k and now 55k km..each time always
same thing..pads are seaized because no grease enuff why???...the
mecanic said he greased each time...Lisa
Did he replace the hardware clips and clean the rust under the old hardware?
hello thxz for the reply, i guess i will never know, but after watching many vids, i did have an independant garage do just that about a month ago with the same pads and rotors, which have now about 10K of KM left becuz of the previous garage work, but i will be sure to ask that to be done again when i have to replace the brakes after 10k KM ....not sure why greasing and lubrication of the small metal parts and or replacement of clips wasnt done for me multiple times ..Lisa
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!