WOOOW, this is major. I have spend so much time trying to work out such photos. I am so happy to see this implemented. And all the small things that are "ease of life" are premium work. Great job, great job!
Hi Steve, great video but could you please make the mouse pointer bigger or put a colored dot behind it? Because you can't always see exactly where you are. I hope you understand what I mean? Thank you very much Regards from Germany Conny
@@hueforging 🤣 Yes, I'm probably the first woman of the world, maybe it's because of my age. But I also translate sometimes into German with text underneath and then I often have trouble keeping up because I can't see the pointer. It would be really nice if you could do that.😘
Is it possible to implement a feature in HueForge that automatically selects the closest preselected filament colors to match the original image colors as closely as possible? I'm curious about the technical feasibility and any reasons it might not be included.
Well you can already right click on an image and have it sort the filament to the closest match. So it's easy to find a Filament that matches the image. But what you are asking is extremely complicated due to 1) The number of available Filaments, 2) they all blend differently based on TD, often 3 or 4 colors deep. 3) Stacking order matters not just for blending but also for how coherent the resulting image and how easily it prints.
I wanted it out yesterday, but found some late bugs and ran out of time to fix them. Should be today. But you don't need it to follow these instructions. 0.7.1 does all of the same things
What specifically are you lost on? Start simple, dark colors on the bottom, light colors at the top. Learn how the filaments blend and then move to more complicated stuff. Also check out NeoKoi prints videos they might make more sense to you?
I have an image with a lot of white (most of the background), and when it goes into the blue bin, it means I need a lot of white layers to remove the blue tint. Is there a way to avoid this? I was thinking about maybe a grayscale bin at the bottom (grey/blue/red/green) that pure grey/whites could go into (with some tolerance) before then the colour sections above. (Also, I'm curious why CA Presets are missing some combinations, for example having Green first)
These are great questions and you are thinking about things the right way. For your first issue, the solution is a lower TD White to transition faster. Maybe as a second white, often just replace the one you have. The CA Presets are just convenience functions for features that had already existed in HueForge and we're commonly used. There isn't currently a way to arbitrarily order the colors and so no presets for those options that aren't yet supported. Arbitrary color order is on my feature roadmap
@@hueforging Thanks for the reply! I don't think a lower TD white helps, because I do still want some good shades of blue/red, I just don't want any solid white to have to be at the top of those. I really think a greyscale bin in addition to RGB would be better (it would also support greys without any tints). My picture doesn't have any green, so for this one I could probably swap all the channels around and use green for greyscale (map it to black-to-white) and then just reorder them - however that's a bit of a faff and maybe some pictures will have all three colour channels as well as black/grey/white. Thank you for the great work!
You can use two white filaments, like the Double White video explains. Your regular white then the low TD white above that to hit saturation. But if you don't have green, does the Blue/Red preset not give you enough room in the blue bin to hit white? The problem with a separate Grayscale bin is that you end up with lots of tiny bins and edge effects visible in the final print.
@@hueforging > You can use two white filaments, like the Double White video explains. Your regular white then the low TD white above that to hit saturation That would get me to the white, but it still means my solid white is made up of all of the black, blue, high TD white and then low TD light. It's a lot of extra time (and filament) to get solid white that could've been at the bottom (for an image that was a white background, this is a fair bit of time/filament). > But if you don't have green, does the Blue/Red preset not give you enough room in the blue bin to hit white? I can certainly get to the white, the white just ends up being many more layers thick than I was hoping for. > The problem with a separate Grayscale bin is that you end up with lots of tiny bins and edge effects visible in the final print. Maybe for some prints it won't work well, but I feel like having the option would at least give more things to play around with to try and make an image work. Maybe part of this is inexperience on my part though - perhaps if I share the image with you you could make some suggestions (perhaps it'd make for an interesting video?). I don't think I can post links here (YT always seems to delete comments with links) but let me know if there's a way I can send to you (it's just a DALL-E generated image of Mario for my son).
@@hueforging I have read the instructions in the PDF and conducted tests, which turned out great! However, I have another question. Since the tests in the examples were conducted using black and white colors, can I simply replace white with other colors to test the TD values? For instance, black + orange or black + green?
This is just premade sets to give you an idea of how to set them up on the sliders. You may absolutely use any filaments you want. But the idea of stacking them Black, Color, White, Black, Color, White, Black, Color, White is what the sets really try to get across.
It's just a convenience it isn't required to use Color Aware. But if you really want to use it, make sure you have at least 9 sliders then close HueForge and open it up again.
Super helpful - thanks! Really changed how I was looking at color aware - viewing it as three distinct ranges makes a lot of sense 😊
WOOOW, this is major.
I have spend so much time trying to work out such photos. I am so happy to see this implemented.
And all the small things that are "ease of life" are premium work. Great job, great job!
Really glad you are enjoying the updates!
Keeps getting better and better! Great purchase!
love this, thank you so much!!! Can't wait for Color Match also!!
Loved this! Learned a lot! Can't wait to get my TD1!
Hi Steve, great video but could you please make the mouse pointer bigger or put a colored dot behind it? Because you can't always see exactly where you are. I hope you understand what I mean? Thank you very much Regards from Germany Conny
While you are the first person to request that, it makes a lot of sense anyway so I will do this in the future
@@hueforging 🤣 Yes, I'm probably the first woman of the world, maybe it's because of my age. But I also translate sometimes into German with text underneath and then I often have trouble keeping up because I can't see the pointer. It would be really nice if you could do that.😘
Thank you. I love this software so much! Keep going!😊
Thank you! I saw your rings this week, kind of wondered about a hybrid HueForge/ring model. Like the ring in the fire at Frodo's house.
@@hueforging I’m already onto something with hueforge. Experimenting experimenting 😅 not sure if it‘ll work.
@@hen3drik I'm excited to see what you come up with :) ! I'm sure it will be epic.
Is it possible to implement a feature in HueForge that automatically selects the closest preselected filament colors to match the original image colors as closely as possible? I'm curious about the technical feasibility and any reasons it might not be included.
Well you can already right click on an image and have it sort the filament to the closest match. So it's easy to find a Filament that matches the image.
But what you are asking is extremely complicated due to 1) The number of available Filaments, 2) they all blend differently based on TD, often 3 or 4 colors deep. 3) Stacking order matters not just for blending but also for how coherent the resulting image and how easily it prints.
@@hueforging That makes sense. Thanks for replying
Im really very happy with this software, good job really that you make
when is this version going to be available?
I wanted it out yesterday, but found some late bugs and ran out of time to fix them. Should be today. But you don't need it to follow these instructions. 0.7.1 does all of the same things
I'm just....so incredibly lost lol. Time to start the tutorials over
What specifically are you lost on? Start simple, dark colors on the bottom, light colors at the top. Learn how the filaments blend and then move to more complicated stuff. Also check out NeoKoi prints videos they might make more sense to you?
I have an image with a lot of white (most of the background), and when it goes into the blue bin, it means I need a lot of white layers to remove the blue tint. Is there a way to avoid this? I was thinking about maybe a grayscale bin at the bottom (grey/blue/red/green) that pure grey/whites could go into (with some tolerance) before then the colour sections above.
(Also, I'm curious why CA Presets are missing some combinations, for example having Green first)
These are great questions and you are thinking about things the right way.
For your first issue, the solution is a lower TD White to transition faster. Maybe as a second white, often just replace the one you have.
The CA Presets are just convenience functions for features that had already existed in HueForge and we're commonly used. There isn't currently a way to arbitrarily order the colors and so no presets for those options that aren't yet supported.
Arbitrary color order is on my feature roadmap
@@hueforging Thanks for the reply! I don't think a lower TD white helps, because I do still want some good shades of blue/red, I just don't want any solid white to have to be at the top of those. I really think a greyscale bin in addition to RGB would be better (it would also support greys without any tints). My picture doesn't have any green, so for this one I could probably swap all the channels around and use green for greyscale (map it to black-to-white) and then just reorder them - however that's a bit of a faff and maybe some pictures will have all three colour channels as well as black/grey/white.
Thank you for the great work!
You can use two white filaments, like the Double White video explains. Your regular white then the low TD white above that to hit saturation. But if you don't have green, does the Blue/Red preset not give you enough room in the blue bin to hit white?
The problem with a separate Grayscale bin is that you end up with lots of tiny bins and edge effects visible in the final print.
@@hueforging > You can use two white filaments, like the Double White video explains. Your regular white then the low TD white above that to hit saturation
That would get me to the white, but it still means my solid white is made up of all of the black, blue, high TD white and then low TD light. It's a lot of extra time (and filament) to get solid white that could've been at the bottom (for an image that was a white background, this is a fair bit of time/filament).
> But if you don't have green, does the Blue/Red preset not give you enough room in the blue bin to hit white?
I can certainly get to the white, the white just ends up being many more layers thick than I was hoping for.
> The problem with a separate Grayscale bin is that you end up with lots of tiny bins and edge effects visible in the final print.
Maybe for some prints it won't work well, but I feel like having the option would at least give more things to play around with to try and make an image work. Maybe part of this is inexperience on my part though - perhaps if I share the image with you you could make some suggestions (perhaps it'd make for an interesting video?). I don't think I can post links here (YT always seems to delete comments with links) but let me know if there's a way I can send to you (it's just a DALL-E generated image of Mario for my son).
@@hueforging (found your email and pinged you the image so you have a better idea of what I was trying to do 🙂)
this option is better with colors but also damages the postprocessed image
I don't think I understand what you mean here. Can you clarify?
Hello HueForging, I'd like to know how to get TD values of other brands' filaments. Do you have any links for reference? Thank you!
In the Tools folder is the Seashell Test with a PDF guide on how to read it.
Thanks a lot
@@hueforging I have read the instructions in the PDF and conducted tests, which turned out great! However, I have another question. Since the tests in the examples were conducted using black and white colors, can I simply replace white with other colors to test the TD values? For instance, black + orange or black + green?
Yes, that is the expectation
What is the meaning of a coloraware filament? Can't you use your own filaments? I can't seem to get good results
This is just premade sets to give you an idea of how to set them up on the sliders. You may absolutely use any filaments you want. But the idea of stacking them Black, Color, White, Black, Color, White, Black, Color, White is what the sets really try to get across.
I cant pick bambulab color aware from the drop down menu - what should I do?
It's just a convenience it isn't required to use Color Aware. But if you really want to use it, make sure you have at least 9 sliders then close HueForge and open it up again.