A tip to avoid the sometimes very lengthy process of reslicing is to load in a simple cube, and set all the color changes on the cube. Once all color changes are in place at the right heights, replace the cube with the Hueforge stl. Then you only need to do the lengthy slice one time
@@98f5Every time you add a filament change you need to reslice, if you start with the cube you could perform the small reslices on the cube first which would be quick and then when you import the stl you want to print, it would only require 1 long slice. (5 long slices vs 5 short slices and 1 long slice). Another alternative (if you have the AMS) is to use the height modifier in orca/bambu which allows you to pick ranges and assign filaments to those ranges requiring only one long slice total.
@niallpeel7832 ill have to try it out. I gotta admit the slicing is pretty fast on my threadripper but any of my other pcs with 8 to 16 cores are godawful slow lol. I always just paint the color changes as layer height in orca, then slice when its all set... but i feel like i am missing the point now or forgot what this comment was related to LOL
Thanks, Steve. I was printing new lightbox steptests for days now, and finally prepared my first hueforge print. Your video came exactly when I needed it :) Thanks again :)
Great walkthrough! Prusaslicer works great for me with my Ender 3 Pro. Originally I tried to use Cura but for some reason it was making way more layers for each print.
Also, and this may just be a personal preference/additional way of doing things, but for the additional colors after the 4 in the AMS, i usually insert a pause in the slider used for filament changes, and i work in a way where at some point dueing my 3rd color (or whichever has the longest stretch to go), I right click the slider and insert the pause. I do this to prevent bumping my machine while its operating.
Thanks for uploading tutorial, just downloaded mac version today so going to play. Ok, been playing for a while. How do you decide what sequence of colours to use, ie should a brown go number 2 or 5 in slider ?
The slider number doesn't matter, only the layer number. The sliders are evaluated from the lowest to the highest layer numbers. Generally you want darker colors on the bottom and brighter colors at the top.
Also I confuse about the relationship between the base layer 0.24mm Min Depth 0.32mm and first layer set of 0.68mm. Can you explain more about them. I try to learn Hueforge and making some artworks with Hueforge. I purchased commercial license and I want to make something for Etsy.
Okay the Base Layer is just how thick the first layer on the bed will be. Your Min Depth really needs to be at least this tall. The min depth is the height at which the actual filament painting starts. Anything below that will be solid. So in this print, there will be 3 layers - one at 0.24mm and 2 at 0.04mm - before the filament painting starts (that adds up to 0.32mm). Then, there will be black until 0.64mm and you will change to your next color at 0.68mm. This doesn't mean that all the black in the image will be 0.64mm tall, just that for the first 0.32mm of the actual mesh, the filament used will be black. Does this help?
For the fifth color with one ams I just pull the first roll out as soon as it moves to slot 2, and stick color 5 in its place, but you can do it any time before it finishes printing color 4.
@@hueforging You can set pause at any layer same way how filament change. However, you can not "Change filament" set and pause at the same layer. What I did, was not using filament layer switch, but height modifiers, and then add pause at given layer for filament AMS swap. Height modifiers have cumbersome UI, but when you get used to it, it is faster than "Change Filament" at layers mainly because it does not need re-slice at every change. That being said, your presented approach is perfectly fine and simple and I like it.
@@romankonecny9943 yes you can absolutely do this, but then you need to subtract only layer height from the top of each height range. This is because HueForge adds a layer in order to account for the way the slider in the slicer works.
@@hueforging I might be mistaken, but it seems to me that info about height from "Describe" is consistent with layer number. At least when I tried both approaches, result was identical. I am not sure I follow your "subtract" comment. But again, I am happy with either approach, Kudos for great work.
@@romankonecny9943 The layer number/mm number that HueForge gives you is the first layer of the next color. That's because the slicer slider needs you to set the change on the first layer of the new color. The height range modifier on the other hand needs to be set just to encompass the color and NOT the first layer of the next color. Hence, if you use a Height Range Modifier (which I endorse) you need to subtract one layer height from the top to get the correct stopping point.
Great tutorial. Quick question. On a Mac, where is it saving the txt file? I only see the .stl. I see that I can still write down the layer changes. Just curious if Mac doesn't save the txt.
It does have the txt file but you have to save under Documents for all the files to save properly when saving a Project (only the Project will save the txt file - also Describe in the top middle of the screen has the same content. If you go to Preferences->Reset Permissions and carefully read the dialog that you probably skipped because everyone does, it explains this.
traditionally the normal printer using 0.4mm nozzle can print 0.15mm layer height. But here you set the layer height 0.04mm. Is that only Bambu lab printer can print that thin layer or other printers such as Ender3 can also print very thin layer? Is that better to switch to 0.2 or 0.25mm nozzle?
We've found that pretty much any printer on a 0.4mm nozzle can print at 0.04mm. I do think that bowden printers will have a harder time with HueForge in general, but we have people in the Discord printing at 0.04mm on their Ender 3s for sure. You will likely have to adjust your temperature and flow settings need to be REALLY good.
This is not currently on the roadmap for a lot of reasons. One of them is the cost, (both dev cost and runtime cost) and the second is I really see this as a creative tool, not a photocopier.
Cura is much more difficult for 2 reasons. 1) Cura often errors out when trying to process the meshes 2) You have to use there Pause at Z plugin to perform filament swaps. CHEP has several videos on this like this one th-cam.com/video/h_Mohd7JLzw/w-d-xo.html
Add post processing script to the gcode. Will need to add multiple scripts for each color/layer change. Printer will pause and may even eject the filament. Doesn't always eject after pause, depends on printer, but you can use the UI to change it. Remeber to remove the scripts when printing regular models. Mine kept pausing a regular print because I forgot and it was annoying to come back and hit resume multiple times.
On the website it says "Mac M1/M2 Version is being finalized." Will this work on Intel-Macs too? Cant get virtual maschines to work on my MacPro. I'd really like to use the app soon, after purchasing it 2 months ago.
how do you get rid of the square or any background shape? I just want the image alone.. even taking an image background out, the checkered background comes in and tries to carry over while in slicer.
@@hueforging hey thanks man! I really appreciate this. I was wondering, since I have you here, what would it take to get the mix of an object and hueforge together? would be SICK to print an object and use it to put a 3D picture on the side of say.. a flowerpot or... just as an example.. I have some reworkings I am doing for printers, would be cool to put a rendering on some parts. Thanks again for your time bro!
@@tombo7719 So you can't print a HueForge print on it's side, so that limits somewhat how it can work. However you COULD unwrap the side of a flowerpot model and use it as a mask for an image. Then you print the image on the thinner side and simply form it around the flower pot and attach it with an appropriate adhesive. For flat surfaces, you can use a tool like Windows 3D Builder to join them with a boolean join and then use slicer parameters to slice and print the rest of the item normally and only drop to solid infill and low layer heights when you get to the HueForge print.
Detail size is how fine the grid is - how many triangles. Smaller is more. Generally best to leave it at greater than or equal to 50% of your nozzle diameter. This defines how small of a detail the mesh captures - but it greatly increases the STL size and won't resolve on bigger nozzles. Layer height is the layer height parameter in your printer and lower layer heights lead to smoother gradients and blending. I print nearly everything at 0.04mm layers on a 0.4mm nozzle with 0.2mm Detail Size
What about using say black on bottom then using white then black again to get greys on top of some other color which is on top of black? Also can i use rgbw/cmyb to get 4 color blending somehow?
You can absolutely use white on black for gray. I did that for an Andor print because I couldn't get the gray I needed otherwise. Since it is only layer swaps, the CMYK blending doesn't work in the same way as the lithophanes, though certainly the filaments will blend properly. Also, most Lithophane C and M filaments are very low TD so they won't blend much.
On a BambuLab printer without an AMS? I believe that is the case - for any other printer, I just use M600 but I don't believe that works for BL printers.
Hello from Germany. Your software is great, but after saving I just can't get a text file on the Mac.Only get the hfp I have 2 Mac computers, one Montery 12.7.3 and one new Sonoma, but no text file on both of them. What can I do now? Sorry, my English is not so good.
Preferences->Reset Permissions Click Okay then Grant Permission without changing folders. Save in a folder under Documents/ that is the only place it will work.
I have yet to have issues with my PC hanging in Bambu Studio....i mean i know i have a bit of a beat of a PC but is it really that problematic for some people? EDIT: I saw the part where he says he has a beefy processor which makes me wonder what it is. Mine is a 7800X 3D (so only 8 cores and not really the best for productivity - not horrible but not the best). So this makes me wonder if system RAM is his other hurdle or proper processor cooling...my slicer is never this slow with Hueforge STLs, and I usually have Chrome and all sorts of other crap open at the same time.
The top layers issues in BambuStudio is serious. Just set the min top thickness to 0 and almost all the problems go away. I have the same processor as you and had the same problem.
I have a problem with exported STL file from Hueforge. In Hueforge the file has 22 layers but when I open the stl file in Bambu it only has 12 layers. What is a possible solution for this dilemma?
Does anyone know if there is a way to remove the background that huefordge creates? I understand how to remove a background on a picture but say i have room to mske the actual picture bigger i cant because it says its out of boundry even though it will not be printing out there..limited to like 255mm on buildplate but the actual print is not even close to that
Two ways. After you remove the background in the photo, crop to image. This isn't always possible if you want to scale it exactly. So in that case, do a plane cut in the slicer at 0 height
@hueforging using bambu studio I can make the cut and the fake background dissappears but once I try scaling it, it comes right back ..maybe I'm doing something wrong?
@hueforging right, I normally don't scale in the slicer, but if I scale it up in hueforge and import it, the box around it hangs over the edges of the build plate and doesn't allow me to do anything ...I was just trying to figure out a way to get around this ..I can import the image to slicer at 255x255 but really the print is maybe 100mm with 70 or so mm of the fake background on each side ..But thanks for trying to help il keep messing with it and il be on the lookout if you ever post a video on this topic
You cannot add/remove sliders while a photo is loaded. If you want more sliders, then close any project/image and then you can click the + or - button to add/remove sliders. (Assuming you are running v0.6.3 or newer). Alternately, go into .usersettings.ini after HueForge is closed and increase your number of sliders.
This was just a quick end-to-end. I did a simple Color Pop and I will do a more complicated Color Pop as well. And a Color Aware but they will be longer, because it is a little complicated.
Currently MacOS users need to save all projects in Documents or it will ONLY save the hfp file. I suggest going to Preferences->Reset Permissions and carefully reading the dialog that you probably just skipped over (like I would have done). This is down to me being really bad at MacOS sandboxing/disk permissions. Also, the Describe button in the General Options and Operations area will give you the same info in the meantime.
@@Baerliner030 I would need the path and are you certain you have 0.6.5? If you have unicode in the HueForge path it doesn't load properly (v0.6.6 fixes this)
Yes. It really is fun when you stop trying to just mindlessly photocopy an image and instead make some stylistic choices based on the filament you have or, or what really is important to you in an image. But that's not for everyone so I will be working on the mindless photocopier version too.
@@hueforgingTo be clear, you've made an impressive bit of software. The problem is that my expectations did not line up with the reality of the software. I thought I'd be able to faithfully recreate images on my multi-color 3D printer using Hueforge. It could be that I just don't know how to use the software yet. So let me ask: How do I take a picture that has red, black, blue, and white in it and get Hueforge to faithfully reproduce it?
@@xt8ob I would need to see the image to have an idea of how hard/easy that is. In general that should be possible without too much trouble. Could you send me the file at hornandrhode@gmail.com so I can see what exactly you are referring to?
* Got picture in, sliders - what do they do ? * When you own the filament what does that mean ? * Do you have to get specific filaments ? * Do you have to know the TD transmission distance ? Where do we get that ? * Filament layers - what does that mean. * Layer # - turns into red square what does that mean. * Aspect ratio is maintained. * What do border width and depth do. * Export to STL, then what * How to determine overall thickness of piece.
Okay this is a huge set of questions and some of those are answered in videos between me or others like the Teaching Tech video at the start of the Tutorials playlist. Some of them are answered in THIS video. Owning a filament is just a method of sorting filaments - it's entirely visual but it's a filament you actually have which I assume you want to see easily. Knowing the TD is very important or the blending prediction will not be correct. You can measure it a couple of ways, I have a livestream on the lightbox method, Teaching Tech goes over the step test and AJAX 3D is working on the TD-1 which will measure it from a strand of filament. When the layer # is a red square it means you have two or more sliders on the same layer. Aspect Ratio IS maintained. Border width/depth adjust the width and depth of the border if you have a border turned on. It defaults to off. Okay, you didn't even watch this video... cmon. It's less than 5 minutes long. Actual Depth field.
@@hueforging I did watch it. I appreciate the answers. They were helpful. I bought your software and have made some nice prints. The UI could be more intuitive but I do respect what you’ve accomplished.
@@hv1461 Sorry for jumping to conclusions, but some of your questions (like what the sliders do and how to slice) were directly answered in the video, so I assumed you hadn't watched it when you posted your questions.
When i click the layers it changes the filament colors for ALL the layers above what I have selected. i don't understand what I am selecting when i click the plus button and it wasn't explained very well in the video so now I am stuck.
I'm sorry, but I don't understand this question. Which plus button? The one to try to add more sliders? That will only do anything if there isn't an image loaded (the tooltip says that).
I meant in the slicer when you "change filament" for separate layers and drag the dots to the layer heights. This part wasn't explained well and I still don't get it. Now I just end up doing everything twice on the first go. @@hueforging
Yes, when you add a new color starting from the bottom, it will change the color of everything above it, but as you move your way up the list, that will be fixed as you set the new colors. What you are selecting is the layer to change colors at and what color to change to.
A tip to avoid the sometimes very lengthy process of reslicing is to load in a simple cube, and set all the color changes on the cube. Once all color changes are in place at the right heights, replace the cube with the Hueforge stl. Then you only need to do the lengthy slice one time
This is particularly important on 0.2mm nozzle prints. I have had some parts take 5 min to slice
This is kind of Brilliant... going to advise this
Im confused wouldn't you just end up with a cube if you dont reslice it?!
@@98f5Every time you add a filament change you need to reslice, if you start with the cube you could perform the small reslices on the cube first which would be quick and then when you import the stl you want to print, it would only require 1 long slice. (5 long slices vs 5 short slices and 1 long slice).
Another alternative (if you have the AMS) is to use the height modifier in orca/bambu which allows you to pick ranges and assign filaments to those ranges requiring only one long slice total.
@niallpeel7832 ill have to try it out. I gotta admit the slicing is pretty fast on my threadripper but any of my other pcs with 8 to 16 cores are godawful slow lol. I always just paint the color changes as layer height in orca, then slice when its all set... but i feel like i am missing the point now or forgot what this comment was related to LOL
Keep em coming, great job again
Thanks, Steve. I was printing new lightbox steptests for days now, and finally prepared my first hueforge print. Your video came exactly when I needed it :) Thanks again :)
Great product!
Great walkthrough! Prusaslicer works great for me with my Ender 3 Pro. Originally I tried to use Cura but for some reason it was making way more layers for each print.
I have resolved the issue using.08 and .16 initial layer. Thank you.
thank you for this
Also, and this may just be a personal preference/additional way of doing things, but for the additional colors after the 4 in the AMS, i usually insert a pause in the slider used for filament changes, and i work in a way where at some point dueing my 3rd color (or whichever has the longest stretch to go), I right click the slider and insert the pause. I do this to prevent bumping my machine while its operating.
That makes sense too, it's one of a couple of ways to do this.
insted of pulling the filament you can right click like you did to set the filament color and add a pause
Now I kinda want to buy and start creating my own. So cool.
Then my evil plan is nearly fruition!
@hueforging now I just need to get good at it. First picture I created in there is printing now. Fingers crossed.
Thanks for uploading tutorial, just downloaded mac version today so going to play.
Ok, been playing for a while.
How do you decide what sequence of colours to use, ie should a brown go number 2 or 5 in slider ?
The slider number doesn't matter, only the layer number. The sliders are evaluated from the lowest to the highest layer numbers. Generally you want darker colors on the bottom and brighter colors at the top.
@@hueforging ok, thanks will play more.
I just posted a new video JUST on sliders: th-cam.com/video/7wit2uBYn9M/w-d-xo.html
@@hueforging thanks, will have a look
Also I confuse about the relationship between the base layer 0.24mm Min Depth 0.32mm and first layer set of 0.68mm. Can you explain more about them. I try to learn Hueforge and making some artworks with Hueforge. I purchased commercial license and I want to make something for Etsy.
Okay the Base Layer is just how thick the first layer on the bed will be. Your Min Depth really needs to be at least this tall.
The min depth is the height at which the actual filament painting starts. Anything below that will be solid. So in this print, there will be 3 layers - one at 0.24mm and 2 at 0.04mm - before the filament painting starts (that adds up to 0.32mm). Then, there will be black until 0.64mm and you will change to your next color at 0.68mm. This doesn't mean that all the black in the image will be 0.64mm tall, just that for the first 0.32mm of the actual mesh, the filament used will be black.
Does this help?
For the fifth color with one ams I just pull the first roll out as soon as it moves to slot 2, and stick color 5 in its place, but you can do it any time before it finishes printing color 4.
Yes if you are around you don't need to pull the 4th spool, but if you are concerned you might miss it, pulling the 4th spool is good insurance.
@@hueforging You can set pause at any layer same way how filament change. However, you can not "Change filament" set and pause at the same layer. What I did, was not using filament layer switch, but height modifiers, and then add pause at given layer for filament AMS swap. Height modifiers have cumbersome UI, but when you get used to it, it is faster than "Change Filament" at layers mainly because it does not need re-slice at every change. That being said, your presented approach is perfectly fine and simple and I like it.
@@romankonecny9943 yes you can absolutely do this, but then you need to subtract only layer height from the top of each height range. This is because HueForge adds a layer in order to account for the way the slider in the slicer works.
@@hueforging I might be mistaken, but it seems to me that info about height from "Describe" is consistent with layer number. At least when I tried both approaches, result was identical. I am not sure I follow your "subtract" comment. But again, I am happy with either approach, Kudos for great work.
@@romankonecny9943 The layer number/mm number that HueForge gives you is the first layer of the next color. That's because the slicer slider needs you to set the change on the first layer of the new color.
The height range modifier on the other hand needs to be set just to encompass the color and NOT the first layer of the next color. Hence, if you use a Height Range Modifier (which I endorse) you need to subtract one layer height from the top to get the correct stopping point.
So the sliders adjust/determine the colors number of layers. In other words how thick each color is
That is correct. The distance UNDER the slider to the next slider down is the number of layers for that color.
Great tutorial. Quick question. On a Mac, where is it saving the txt file? I only see the .stl. I see that I can still write down the layer changes. Just curious if Mac doesn't save the txt.
It does have the txt file but you have to save under Documents for all the files to save properly when saving a Project (only the Project will save the txt file - also Describe in the top middle of the screen has the same content. If you go to Preferences->Reset Permissions and carefully read the dialog that you probably skipped because everyone does, it explains this.
traditionally the normal printer using 0.4mm nozzle can print 0.15mm layer height. But here you set the layer height 0.04mm. Is that only Bambu lab printer can print that thin layer or other printers such as Ender3 can also print very thin layer? Is that better to switch to 0.2 or 0.25mm nozzle?
We've found that pretty much any printer on a 0.4mm nozzle can print at 0.04mm. I do think that bowden printers will have a harder time with HueForge in general, but we have people in the Discord printing at 0.04mm on their Ender 3s for sure. You will likely have to adjust your temperature and flow settings need to be REALLY good.
ive printed a few hueforge models now on an ender 3 neo with no problems
Will there be any AI integrated into the future to auto generate the Hues according to the imported image?
This is not currently on the roadmap for a lot of reasons. One of them is the cost, (both dev cost and runtime cost) and the second is I really see this as a creative tool, not a photocopier.
How do we use Hueforge in Ultimaker Cura slicer? I keep finding videos for the bamboo slicer tutorial but can’t find any for cura slicer.
Cura is much more difficult for 2 reasons.
1) Cura often errors out when trying to process the meshes
2) You have to use there Pause at Z plugin to perform filament swaps. CHEP has several videos on this like this one th-cam.com/video/h_Mohd7JLzw/w-d-xo.html
Add post processing script to the gcode. Will need to add multiple scripts for each color/layer change. Printer will pause and may even eject the filament. Doesn't always eject after pause, depends on printer, but you can use the UI to change it. Remeber to remove the scripts when printing regular models. Mine kept pausing a regular print because I forgot and it was annoying to come back and hit resume multiple times.
Step 1) download Prusa/Bambu Slicer
Step 2) migrate profiles from Cura
Step 3) enjoy printing 3,000% more
Step 4) delete Cura
@@hamthomas4715 I didn't say it.
On the website it says "Mac M1/M2 Version is being finalized." Will this work on Intel-Macs too?
Cant get virtual maschines to work on my MacPro. I'd really like to use the app soon, after purchasing it 2 months ago.
I built universal binaries and have a couple of Intel Mac testers about to confirm it works.
@@hueforging awesome. Thanks for the update. 👍
how do you get rid of the square or any background shape? I just want the image alone.. even taking an image background out, the checkered background comes in and tries to carry over while in slicer.
It goes away when you slice it. It's zero height so the slicer throws it away
@@hueforging hey thanks man! I really appreciate this. I was wondering, since I have you here, what would it take to get the mix of an object and hueforge together? would be SICK to print an object and use it to put a 3D picture on the side of say.. a flowerpot or... just as an example.. I have some reworkings I am doing for printers, would be cool to put a rendering on some parts. Thanks again for your time bro!
@@tombo7719 So you can't print a HueForge print on it's side, so that limits somewhat how it can work. However you COULD unwrap the side of a flowerpot model and use it as a mask for an image. Then you print the image on the thinner side and simply form it around the flower pot and attach it with an appropriate adhesive.
For flat surfaces, you can use a tool like Windows 3D Builder to join them with a boolean join and then use slicer parameters to slice and print the rest of the item normally and only drop to solid infill and low layer heights when you get to the HueForge print.
@@hueforging okay! Excellent suggestions! I know it is always a slicer/print issue, just how will you solve it? Thanks again!
Det4ect narrow and ensure vertical didnt take any time off, so I guess its situational
Definitely could be.
What is the difference between detail size and layer height exactly?
Detail size is how fine the grid is - how many triangles. Smaller is more. Generally best to leave it at greater than or equal to 50% of your nozzle diameter. This defines how small of a detail the mesh captures - but it greatly increases the STL size and won't resolve on bigger nozzles.
Layer height is the layer height parameter in your printer and lower layer heights lead to smoother gradients and blending. I print nearly everything at 0.04mm layers on a 0.4mm nozzle with 0.2mm Detail Size
can you advise where you found the image you used in this video
I generated it in Midjourney
What about using say black on bottom then using white then black again to get greys on top of some other color which is on top of black? Also can i use rgbw/cmyb to get 4 color blending somehow?
You can absolutely use white on black for gray. I did that for an Andor print because I couldn't get the gray I needed otherwise.
Since it is only layer swaps, the CMYK blending doesn't work in the same way as the lithophanes, though certainly the filaments will blend properly. Also, most Lithophane C and M filaments are very low TD so they won't blend much.
How do you do it with no ams? add a pause instead of filament change?
On a BambuLab printer without an AMS? I believe that is the case - for any other printer, I just use M600 but I don't believe that works for BL printers.
How did you make it to where you dont have a color tower?
It's in the other settings. Turn off the purge tower
🤘🤘
Is save project supposed to export the stl it isnt.
MacOS? Your write permissions are wrong or you aren't saving in a folder under Documents.
Can you add color to one area? For example, have a grayscale image but ONLY the eyes are a yellow?
Highly recommend the Color Pop video. It covers EXACTLY this case.
@@hueforging THANK YOU!
Hello from Germany. Your software is great, but after saving I just can't get a text file on the Mac.Only get the hfp I have 2 Mac computers, one Montery 12.7.3 and one new Sonoma, but no text file on both of them. What can I do now? Sorry, my English is not so good.
Preferences->Reset Permissions
Click Okay then Grant Permission without changing folders.
Save in a folder under Documents/ that is the only place it will work.
@@hueforging Hey Thank you again here, because I was the one by email 😂. Greetings Conny
I have yet to have issues with my PC hanging in Bambu Studio....i mean i know i have a bit of a beat of a PC but is it really that problematic for some people?
EDIT: I saw the part where he says he has a beefy processor which makes me wonder what it is. Mine is a 7800X 3D (so only 8 cores and not really the best for productivity - not horrible but not the best). So this makes me wonder if system RAM is his other hurdle or proper processor cooling...my slicer is never this slow with Hueforge STLs, and I usually have Chrome and all sorts of other crap open at the same time.
The top layers issues in BambuStudio is serious. Just set the min top thickness to 0 and almost all the problems go away. I have the same processor as you and had the same problem.
I have a problem with exported STL file from Hueforge. In Hueforge the file has 22 layers but when I open the stl file in Bambu it only has 12 layers. What is a possible solution for this dilemma?
Sounds like HueForge is at 0.04mm and you are at 0.08mm in the slicer.
Does anyone know if there is a way to remove the background that huefordge creates? I understand how to remove a background on a picture but say i have room to mske the actual picture bigger i cant because it says its out of boundry even though it will not be printing out there..limited to like 255mm on buildplate but the actual print is not even close to that
Two ways. After you remove the background in the photo, crop to image. This isn't always possible if you want to scale it exactly. So in that case, do a plane cut in the slicer at 0 height
@hueforging using bambu studio I can make the cut and the fake background dissappears but once I try scaling it, it comes right back ..maybe I'm doing something wrong?
@@whitetailtherapy7908 You shouldn't be scaling in the slicer. But if you must, then only scale XY don't scale uniform.
@hueforging right, I normally don't scale in the slicer, but if I scale it up in hueforge and import it, the box around it hangs over the edges of the build plate and doesn't allow me to do anything ...I was just trying to figure out a way to get around this ..I can import the image to slicer at 255x255 but really the print is maybe 100mm with 70 or so mm of the fake background on each side ..But thanks for trying to help il keep messing with it and il be on the lookout if you ever post a video on this topic
@@whitetailtherapy7908 Why not crop to image in your photo editor? That will make the box minimal in size.
U dont have to reslice as you are doing your filament changes. You can do em all then slice.
That changed after I made this video. It was a very welcome change.
@@hueforging ah, did not know that.
why am I unable to add more than 10 colors to my hueforge and you have 16?
You cannot add/remove sliders while a photo is loaded. If you want more sliders, then close any project/image and then you can click the + or - button to add/remove sliders. (Assuming you are running v0.6.3 or newer). Alternately, go into .usersettings.ini after HueForge is closed and increase your number of sliders.
Can you a demo with something with actual colour? I cannot for the life of me get anything even close when the image has nice colours.
This was just a quick end-to-end. I did a simple Color Pop and I will do a more complicated Color Pop as well. And a Color Aware but they will be longer, because it is a little complicated.
@@hueforging looking forward to those! :)
where is the text file in macOS???
Currently MacOS users need to save all projects in Documents or it will ONLY save the hfp file. I suggest going to Preferences->Reset Permissions and carefully reading the dialog that you probably just skipped over (like I would have done). This is down to me being really bad at MacOS sandboxing/disk permissions.
Also, the Describe button in the General Options and Operations area will give you the same info in the meantime.
cant save as STL File. Please help
The step test is an STL. Or are you on Mac?
@@hueforging stl. But I can’t see it?
And also can’t open 6.5 - Couldn’t read filament Library at…
@@Baerliner030 I would need the path and are you certain you have 0.6.5? If you have unicode in the HueForge path it doesn't load properly (v0.6.6 fixes this)
Did he really try to say that "part of the fun" is that you can't make your rendered drawing look like the original?
Yes. It really is fun when you stop trying to just mindlessly photocopy an image and instead make some stylistic choices based on the filament you have or, or what really is important to you in an image. But that's not for everyone so I will be working on the mindless photocopier version too.
@@hueforgingTo be clear, you've made an impressive bit of software. The problem is that my expectations did not line up with the reality of the software. I thought I'd be able to faithfully recreate images on my multi-color 3D printer using Hueforge. It could be that I just don't know how to use the software yet. So let me ask: How do I take a picture that has red, black, blue, and white in it and get Hueforge to faithfully reproduce it?
@@xt8ob I would need to see the image to have an idea of how hard/easy that is. In general that should be possible without too much trouble. Could you send me the file at hornandrhode@gmail.com so I can see what exactly you are referring to?
* Got picture in, sliders - what do they do ?
* When you own the filament what does that mean ?
* Do you have to get specific filaments ?
* Do you have to know the TD transmission distance ? Where do we get that ?
* Filament layers - what does that mean.
* Layer # - turns into red square what does that mean.
* Aspect ratio is maintained.
* What do border width and depth do.
* Export to STL, then what
* How to determine overall thickness of piece.
Okay this is a huge set of questions and some of those are answered in videos between me or others like the Teaching Tech video at the start of the Tutorials playlist.
Some of them are answered in THIS video.
Owning a filament is just a method of sorting filaments - it's entirely visual but it's a filament you actually have which I assume you want to see easily.
Knowing the TD is very important or the blending prediction will not be correct. You can measure it a couple of ways, I have a livestream on the lightbox method, Teaching Tech goes over the step test and AJAX 3D is working on the TD-1 which will measure it from a strand of filament.
When the layer # is a red square it means you have two or more sliders on the same layer.
Aspect Ratio IS maintained.
Border width/depth adjust the width and depth of the border if you have a border turned on. It defaults to off.
Okay, you didn't even watch this video... cmon. It's less than 5 minutes long.
Actual Depth field.
@@hueforging I did watch it. I appreciate the answers. They were helpful. I bought your software and have made some nice prints. The UI could be more intuitive but I do respect what you’ve accomplished.
@@hv1461 Sorry for jumping to conclusions, but some of your questions (like what the sliders do and how to slice) were directly answered in the video, so I assumed you hadn't watched it when you posted your questions.
When i click the layers it changes the filament colors for ALL the layers above what I have selected. i don't understand what I am selecting when i click the plus button and it wasn't explained very well in the video so now I am stuck.
I'm sorry, but I don't understand this question. Which plus button? The one to try to add more sliders? That will only do anything if there isn't an image loaded (the tooltip says that).
I meant in the slicer when you "change filament" for separate layers and drag the dots to the layer heights. This part wasn't explained well and I still don't get it. Now I just end up doing everything twice on the first go. @@hueforging
Yes, when you add a new color starting from the bottom, it will change the color of everything above it, but as you move your way up the list, that will be fixed as you set the new colors. What you are selecting is the layer to change colors at and what color to change to.