In this video I show step by step how to build a fuse panel and wire a hot rod. To support this channel please checkout www.lgspeedkus... Thanks for watching
Nice job Lee. Should have used that deep dish socket trick on the drill bit! -- Keep up the video's, I really enjoy watching the progress on the 32 and the other projects being completed.
I was wiring my 65 Volvo Wagon 40 odd years ago and put my son at the time a little older than Lex. He was happy in the back, then I realized he was too quite so I went back to find he has disassembled the wagon's rear T-handle for the lower door. It never did work as well after that. As for the horn switch you could use a small pice of shrink tubing over the swich t tell it apart. The wiring looks great!
Great Video! I always have trouble with wiring and understanding the brake light and turn signal wiring. I look forward to Part 2! Love your videos especially the driving ones!
Yeah - back on the Black Diamond ! Thanks for the in depth wiring lesson - or "Everything you ever wanted to know about wiring - but were afraid to ask" - or "How to take something boring and make it interesting and fun". It looks cool in the 3/4 view. By the way - I think Lux has his eye on your car - but can you blame him?
Lee, hello. Your knowledge and skill at analyzing, designing, fabricating and installation, as well as your ability to explain why and how what you are doing is awesome! I enjoy very much your videos! Your wiring of your '32 tickled some similar memories of wiring my '32 coupe many years ago. Having a dislike of headlight pull switches I also did it with toggle switches in the dash center section and at the same time eliminating the need for a High/Low beam foot switch by using a center 'OFF' DPDT switch where 'UP puts on high beams and 'DOWN' does the low beams (not much foot movement room in a 7" channeled '32). In a similar fashion I use a center OFF DPDT switch to control the heater 6 Volt fan where UP is a single 6 volt dropping resistor for high speed and down is through an additional series 6 volt dropping resistor for LOW fan speed with the resistors mounted on the heater to add their wattage to the heat flow. In the fifties and sixties the use of relays was not done much if not at all. You made sure the switches and wires could handle the current instead. Keep up your good work! Thank you. Bob
When you are using those manual crimpers with insulated lugs, you do not use the crimp with the 'dimple'. You need to use the flat crimp section of the tool. If, you are using the 'dimple' on a non-insulated or if you feel the need to use them on an insulated lug, the 'dimple' is used under the lug on solid portion of the lug shoulder. The top of the lug shoulder is split and you can get a loose crimp because the 'dimple' can possibly crimp unevenly.
A long time ago in a land far far away, they had a law that said if you going to park your car on the street at night you had to have "parking lights ". Hence the name .
Too bad the CAD portion didn’t record, I’m just getting started with the same setup & would have liked to see how you did that. Great & informative video though, thanks !
Looked awesome without fenders, equally with fenders and running boards! I upgraded my '62 Fairlane 500 with '63 amber front turn signal lenses. Also my '65 1/2 2 + 2 with '68 Charger mini round side running lights, it took 1 1/2 sets to get flat back housings having amber fronts and red rears. It's new ower in '70 hated the Chrysler lights on th Mustang fastback. Did the circuit breaker replace the fuseable link?
Lee, that is a beautiful roadster behind you at 44:39. Can you tell me the material on that top? I want to get that material to do the top on my 28 pickup. Thank you in advance
Max. Current for 10 gauge wire is 30 amps and you fused it at 100 amps ? If you are driving the car and are drawing 50 amps that 10 gauge wire will get quite warm ?
I used the 100 amp circuit breaker based on the 90 amp output of the alternator. I’ve installed a lot of aftermarket wiring kits (AAW, Painless, Francis etc) and they all use 10g for the main power feed. It may not be textbook, but I’ve been doing it for many years with zero issues.
Where did you get your 6v fuse blocks and otther components? I know I can use some 12v items so long as my current is low but I'd rather do it right. ,
Please advise. I have a 66 Mustang 289 and cannot sort out the wiring between the alternator, regulator and key. The 'I' on the regulator goes to the ignition I think but first it has to pass through a small light bulb or diode I think ? Am I right so far ? I can't get my alternator to kick in. I have been running on battery since 2017.
The ignition wiring and the alternator wiring are two totally separate circuits and have nothing to do with each other. Your alternator should have a field wire and armature wire coming off the back, these go to the voltage regulator. And from the voltage regulator you’ll have the battery wire running to the battery side of the solenoid.
Saturday is my school day at LGKustoms. Thanks for the training.
Nice job Lee. Should have used that deep dish socket trick on the drill bit! -- Keep up the video's, I really enjoy watching the progress on the 32 and the other projects being completed.
Yea, I didn’t think the drill bit would be going anywhere near the dash insert
Great video Lee ! Nicely explained, I bet Lux could wire up a hot rod now lol . Great idea using the signal indicators as signal lights. 👍🏻
They’ve been in the top of my toolbox for over ten years just waiting for the right project
Great wiring job Lee and Lux, boy oh boy Lux is a chip off the old block, keep up the good work Lee.
Another good one Lee....Wishing I had seen this video 50 yrs ago..
Nice home brew wiring kit. Great job explaining the process too. 🫵🏼💯🆒
Nice work with the wiring. That tbird fender light could be a pretty neat tail light for a motorcycle
I was wiring my 65 Volvo Wagon 40 odd years ago and put my son at the time a little older than Lex. He was happy in the back, then I realized he was too quite so I went back to find he has disassembled the wagon's rear T-handle for the lower door. It never did work as well after that. As for the horn switch you could use a small pice of shrink tubing over the swich t tell it apart. The wiring looks great!
Very clear explanation. Looking forward to pt2. Thanks
Coming soon!
Nice job Lee 👍 your little helper seems to like the job that you are doing 😂
Very concise, clear, why and how for a “simple” wiring job. Really nice work!
Another very educational video… appreciate you taking the time to explain your wiring process. Thank you.
Very welcome
Awesome job you made that look easy 🛠️🇨🇦🛠️🛠️
Great Video! I always have trouble with wiring and understanding the brake light and turn signal wiring. I look forward to Part 2! Love your videos especially the driving ones!
Thanks! Working on part two now
Yeah - back on the Black Diamond ! Thanks for the in depth wiring lesson - or "Everything you ever wanted to know about wiring - but were afraid to ask" - or "How to take something boring and make it interesting and fun". It looks cool in the 3/4 view. By the way - I think Lux has his eye on your car - but can you blame him?
I need to consult you about future video titles haha
74 in the shop at Tucson we would need sleeves, long pants and maybe a flannel.
Very good video! Kinda wish I had done my panel a little bit differently in my 55. Guess that will have to be for the next one!
Lee, hello.
Your knowledge and skill at analyzing, designing, fabricating and installation, as well as your ability to explain why and how what you are doing is awesome! I enjoy very much your videos!
Your wiring of your '32 tickled some similar memories of wiring my '32 coupe many years ago. Having a dislike of headlight pull switches I also did it with toggle switches in the dash center section and at the same time eliminating the need for a High/Low beam foot switch by using a center 'OFF' DPDT switch where 'UP puts on high beams and 'DOWN' does the low beams (not much foot movement room in a 7" channeled '32).
In a similar fashion I use a center OFF DPDT switch to control the heater 6 Volt fan where UP is a single 6 volt dropping resistor for high speed and down is through an additional series 6 volt dropping resistor for LOW fan speed with the resistors mounted on the heater to add their wattage to the heat flow.
In the fifties and sixties the use of relays was not done much if not at all. You made sure the switches and wires could handle the current instead.
Keep up your good work!
Thank you.
Bob
Thanks Bob
The car looks awesome ! Very gangster
Awesome stuff man 👍
Dude?!! Great 101 on the wiring!! (Squirrel!!!) Is that a 68 Chevelle!!!lol!!✌️
68 Beaumont actually. Another Canadian only car
Parklight switch is perrrfect for the under-dash purple 'sexxy' lights! Gotta keep is 60's Bro.! Great video, learned a few little items.
So when your purple under dash lights are on, your tail lights are also on?
I love wiring !! 🙂 Who else?
I find it quite relaxing. Like a zen garden
Wish I had an auto parts store near me that sold those Pico parts.
I’m pretty fortunate to have a great parts store with real parts people behind the counter close to me.
Awesome!!
Good Information.........thanks.
When you are using those manual crimpers with insulated lugs, you do not use the crimp with the 'dimple'. You need to use the flat crimp section of the tool. If, you are using the 'dimple' on a non-insulated or if you feel the need to use them on an insulated lug, the 'dimple' is used under the lug on solid portion of the lug shoulder. The top of the lug shoulder is split and you can get a loose crimp because the 'dimple' can possibly crimp unevenly.
Great Video! FYI, we don't go to the beach until the ocean water is at least 74 degrees... :)
I don’t actually go in the water. Fish have sex in water.
@@LGKustoms And do other stuff. Lol
@@LGKustoms🤣😆🤣
Thanks for sharing, always interesting!
I think Lux wants to wire the car for you.
A long time ago in a land far far away, they had a law that said if you going to park your car on the street at night you had to have "parking lights ". Hence the name .
Must have been a lot of dead batteries the next morning haha
@@LGKustoms exactly the problem, they eventually rescinded the law but the name " parking lights " remained
Too bad the CAD portion didn’t record, I’m just getting started with the same setup & would have liked to see how you did that. Great & informative video though, thanks !
There is some great tutorial videos on TH-cam on how to use fusion 360. That’s how I learned.
i think the park lites came on for the drive in theaters
Those were way before my time
@@LGKustoms im 65
Hey Lee..what's up with the magenta sharpee?... Always living on the edge of disaster eh? Great tutorial!!
The magenta compliments my eye color
Looked awesome without fenders, equally with fenders and running boards!
I upgraded my '62 Fairlane 500 with '63 amber front turn signal lenses. Also my '65 1/2 2 + 2 with '68 Charger mini round side running lights, it took 1 1/2 sets to get flat back housings having amber fronts and red rears. It's new ower in '70 hated the Chrysler lights on th Mustang fastback.
Did the circuit breaker replace the fuseable link?
Yes the circuit breaker is essentially the same as a fusible link. Only it’s resettable!
Lee, that is a beautiful roadster behind you at 44:39. Can you tell me the material on that top? I want to get that material to do the top on my 28 pickup. Thank you in advance
I believe it’s Stay Fast by Haartz, but can’t say for sure, I didn’t build the car.
@@LGKustoms Thank you Lee. I will check it out
Are you going to run a hood,an fill the top ? I love the 32 , always wanted one but now I ‘m 80 I do not think it wil happen
Yes I have an original four piece hood, and I do plan on making a roof insert.
Max. Current for 10 gauge wire is 30 amps and you fused it at 100 amps ? If you are driving the car and are drawing 50 amps that 10 gauge wire will get quite warm ?
I used the 100 amp circuit breaker based on the 90 amp output of the alternator. I’ve installed a lot of aftermarket wiring kits (AAW, Painless, Francis etc) and they all use 10g for the main power feed.
It may not be textbook, but I’ve been doing it for many years with zero issues.
Where did you get your 6v fuse blocks and otther components? I know I can use some 12v items so long as my current is low but I'd rather do it right.
,
I’m running 12 volts on this car, but if it was 6 volts I’d still use the same fuse blocks, just run a heavier gauge wire.
Please advise. I have a 66 Mustang 289 and cannot sort out the wiring between the alternator, regulator and key. The 'I' on the regulator goes to the ignition I think but first it has to pass through a small light bulb or diode I think ? Am I right so far ? I can't get my alternator to kick in. I have been running on battery since 2017.
The ignition wiring and the alternator wiring are two totally separate circuits and have nothing to do with each other. Your alternator should have a field wire and armature wire coming off the back, these go to the voltage regulator. And from the voltage regulator you’ll have the battery wire running to the battery side of the solenoid.
@@LGKustoms Thank you. I love this video and will use it for my ride wiring.
Why did you choose a 100a relay on car with so few accessories?
The alternator output is 90 amps. Most aftermarket wiring harnesses (American Auto Wire for example) use a 175 amp master circuit breaker.
@@LGKustoms thanks for explaining
shouldn't you mention how important proper grounding is ? battery to frame,engine to body,engine to frame.
I covered all that in the video “Will it Run? Will it Drive? 32 Ford Build Part 26” when I wired the ignition system up