If you want to compare the accuracy of a sensor, to the official BOSCH, here is the procedure: For each sensor: 1. Remove the sensor from the exhaust. Place in open air. 2. Set the gauge to 4-digit mode 3. Set it to display O2% 4. Set it to RCal mode. ( this does not work, if you do a "free-air-cal" ) 5. Note the O2% reading, for each sensor. Depending on your altitude/elevation, you should see a reading of about 17% to 21%. If both the BOSCH and aftermarket sensors agree on the %, then you have a functional sensor. The readings at idle ( around 14.7 ) are meaningless. 14.7 AFR is "Zero" for a wideband. It's like testing a voltmeter's accuracy by measuring 0v. I hope these budget sensors work out. Even if they last 1/2 as long :)
I have used the cheap ones in a DA integra tuned on a hondata s300. I replaced the sensor twice in 4 years. I put one into an H22 accord recently and it didn't even last 6 months. I just today put up the $$$ for the real deal. I just hope to get at least 5 years out of it.
Trying to figure it out. I got a 2011 crown Vic Police interceptor and keeps throwing Cadillac converter codes. I change the Cadillac converters brand new ones. Still throwing the code so I'm going to try these aftermarket sensors
the real budget option is to pick up a balanger motorsports wideband with NTK sensor for $350. the NTK sensors last significantly longer and hold up 1000% better to leaded fuel. few more dollars than the aem up front but will save a ton of money in the long run. you were a few houses away from driving by my moms house 🤣
You've been urging me for a while to sept up to that NTK + go boost, and I'm finally halfway there. On another note, I'm sure your Grandma can identify my truck by sound.
It's the O2 controller you have to watch out for. The CJ125 chip is being counterfeited by China and it is very hard to find a real Bosch chip. But it is possible the knock off chips could be better. The real chip design isn't that great, my concern for it would be the chip reading much different on a hot drag strip. All semiconductor stuff having performance swings over temp swings. But I have not tested to verify my concerns. I just built my own controller circuit instead. My channel has a video of me explaining the whole Bosch chip internals.
I'm wondering, since four months, Is the amazon oxygen sensor still performing?? I have a authentic AEM 30-0300 unit that been working fantastic for 3 years. But im considering trying the knockoff ebay/Amazon $80 lookalikes to see if they preform equivalent to my AEM. what's your take/opinion on this?
does anyone have the color code to the wires on the gledwen replacement sensor. I'm not using it with a gauge, I'm interfacing into the universal control, and need the color code to the 4 wires, it has yel, wht, blk and red wires
usually the difference will be noticable when slowly picking up speed lower rpms it wont be so accurate and it will feel slugish compared to the bosch which mesures precisely
once i bought a cheap oxygen sensor from amazon, and the car ran like crappp but it was not noticeable immediately, after driving for a week the car became extremely sluggish. After fitting the Oem part the car became alive.
I have tried the cheap ones and the more pricey ones, and do not see a difference, neither last very long it seems, I am lucky to get a year out of either.
LSU 4.9 O2 Oxygen Sensor AEM X Series AFR
amzn.to/46Llebi
So did it die already ?
If you want to compare the accuracy of a sensor, to the official BOSCH, here is the procedure:
For each sensor:
1. Remove the sensor from the exhaust. Place in open air.
2. Set the gauge to 4-digit mode
3. Set it to display O2%
4. Set it to RCal mode. ( this does not work, if you do a "free-air-cal" )
5. Note the O2% reading, for each sensor.
Depending on your altitude/elevation, you should see a reading of about 17% to 21%. If both the BOSCH and aftermarket sensors agree on the %, then you have a functional sensor.
The readings at idle ( around 14.7 ) are meaningless. 14.7 AFR is "Zero" for a wideband. It's like testing a voltmeter's accuracy by measuring 0v.
I hope these budget sensors work out. Even if they last 1/2 as long :)
I have used the cheap ones in a DA integra tuned on a hondata s300. I replaced the sensor twice in 4 years. I put one into an H22 accord recently and it didn't even last 6 months. I just today put up the $$$ for the real deal. I just hope to get at least 5 years out of it.
Trying to figure it out. I got a 2011 crown Vic Police interceptor and keeps throwing Cadillac converter codes. I change the Cadillac converters brand new ones. Still throwing the code so I'm going to try these aftermarket sensors
the real budget option is to pick up a balanger motorsports wideband with NTK sensor for $350. the NTK sensors last significantly longer and hold up 1000% better to leaded fuel. few more dollars than the aem up front but will save a ton of money in the long run.
you were a few houses away from driving by my moms house 🤣
You've been urging me for a while to sept up to that NTK + go boost, and I'm finally halfway there. On another note, I'm sure your Grandma can identify my truck by sound.
It's the O2 controller you have to watch out for. The CJ125 chip is being counterfeited by China and it is very hard to find a real Bosch chip. But it is possible the knock off chips could be better. The real chip design isn't that great, my concern for it would be the chip reading much different on a hot drag strip. All semiconductor stuff having performance swings over temp swings. But I have not tested to verify my concerns. I just built my own controller circuit instead. My channel has a video of me explaining the whole Bosch chip internals.
Do you prefer the Aem over your old autometer wideband?
I haven't replaced a cheapie or bosch since I stopped waiting for it to warm up before starting. I read online that fries them faster.
Good to know
@@TPVPRO As far as I'v read on the internet, the bosch can handle more missuse like not waiting for the warmup time
Yep start it with motor or beforehand
Thank you for your tech info ……. Sorry to see you leave the Nitrous guys behind your tech on that was great.
How long did it last?
I'm wondering, since four months, Is the amazon oxygen sensor still performing?? I have a authentic AEM 30-0300 unit that been working fantastic for 3 years. But im considering trying the knockoff ebay/Amazon $80 lookalikes to see if they preform equivalent to my AEM. what's your take/opinion on this?
My truck has been on jack stands for 3 months so I can't confirm the reliability yet.
@@TPVPROWhat about now?
does anyone have the color code to the wires on the gledwen replacement sensor. I'm not using it with a gauge, I'm interfacing into the universal control, and need the color code to the 4 wires, it has yel, wht, blk and red wires
I didn't even know they made a cheap one. The next wideband I get is going to be the combo 02 and boost
let me know how it works for you.
usually the difference will be noticable when slowly picking up speed lower rpms it wont be so accurate and it will feel slugish compared to the bosch which mesures precisely
great info. You be da Oxy Jen Sinnsor Kang I'm looking foward to the boost info you 'bout to start slangin, Keep it gangster dog, keep it gangster
once i bought a cheap oxygen sensor from amazon, and the car ran like crappp
but it was not noticeable immediately, after driving for a week the car became extremely sluggish.
After fitting the Oem part the car became alive.
I had that happen to me on my Mazda. I'm always skeptical myself.
Well no one's stealing that car lol
I have tried the cheap ones and the more pricey ones, and do not see a difference, neither last very long it seems, I am lucky to get a year out of either.
I have three cars and three AEM AFR's. I am finding the Bosch and Cheap ones are performing and lasting about the same (as ^ said).
Leaded gas with a wideband LOL
That gauge sure cant display worth shit
It's just the camera shutter to your eyes it looks fine.
I wouldn't buy any of them. Denso or bust 👍