Ya, agreed. I am from Malaysia, My Phal bellina blooms all year round non stop for years with multiple spike and blooms but those hybrid that requires cooler temperature blooms only once every few years when the temperature was near to their blooming temperature and with very few flowers.
They sure do!!! I have one that has been blooming for a year. It always has three or four bloomed, and before I lose one there is always one to take it’s place.
I've been binging your videos for the last two weeks and am stunned by the plethora of content going back several years. My fiancé got me an orchid out of a Kroger for our first anniversary (circa 2017 ish). After realizing it was an actual plant and not just a trimmed flower, I kind of haphazardly took care of it, doing just enough research to see how often I needed to water it. It rebloomed twice in the last five years, so I thought I was doing a pretty good job. However, after some serious dehydration neglect due to some mental health apathy and moving houses, I suddenly noticed it getting super leathery leaves and began to investigate when it did not recover from a regular watering. I've learned a massive amount of information in a short amount of time and I found some gorgeous medium and a nice bigger pot for her (she was still in her insanely tiny cup, I'm surprised she had not died after everything I've learned). After three days, her top two leaves are beginning to firm up and I feel like I'm out of the woods with her
Great information! I’m ready to try different types. I’ve kept alive and rebloomed 5 phals for a few years now. Now, to figure out which direction to go!!
Hi I’m Jerlyn and watching from Philippines 🇵🇭 I’ve been watching your videos almost every day and following your methods on to repot and love watching your videos actually
Thanks Dani! This was very helpful. I realized I am keeping my Polychilos too cold in the winter. Hopefully I will have more success going forward (they barely grow all winter!).
That's what my bellina was doing before moving here, 6-7 years ago when I lived in Ro. Here it's growing faster and for longer since it's sub tropical 😁 warmth def helps!
Hi dani, to shed some more insight to the topic of cold temp for schilleriana blooming, the Philippines experience the northwestmoonson aka amihan season from oct to feb , which characteristized by the overall drop in temp which is the reason why the P. Schilleriana and other species is prompted to bloom in that season.
I have two 'teenage' Bellina 'Ponkan' and a young Bellina 'Coerulea' though with it's long and thin leaves, I have a feeling it may not actually be one. It should be quite a suprise in a few years. I cannot WAIT until the Bellinas bloom and I can smell them for myself. I have a Sedirea Japonica 'Minmaru' in bud, 6 so far!!! I'm am absolutely thrilled to see and smell those as well. I've moved over to more fragrant phals and Cattleyas...as I love beautiful natural scents. You walk by my orchid shelf to go into my living area and I'm so excited to smell them as I walk by! Thank you for all of your advice. Now if I could only get Cattleyas to not lose all of their roots after repotting! I have a Catt. Maxima 'Coerulea' in AMAZING health but needs a repot due to vigorous growth but I'm scared!!! Lol.
@@MissOrchidGirl I potted it in very loose sphagnum in a net pot. I also 'up-potted' it with the moss not touching the bottom of the stem. I let it completely dry before re-watering but do keep it near a pebble tray. I hope that helps!
I’ve found after trying to make two attempts at growing a younger polychilos specimen is they will develop crown rot really easily unless kept in perfect growing conditions for their subgenus. I’ve lost both plants to crown rot and am giving up unless I could actually find a full grown adult plant to purchase one day. Most people will need a greenhouse to keep these happy unless they live in a very warm tropical region. I got a heated seed mat for my second one, but it was too late - crown rot had already set in. These seem to be a little unrealistic for the average hobbyist growing phals in their home. I don’t think Danni stressed this. Just my opinion after two frustrating losses.
Your Phalaenopsis schilleriana looks so healthy. I know, to many light can kill P. schilleriana. What is the light level (lux) that you look after P. schilleriana?
Hi Dani, thank you, thank you, thank you for this video!! Polychilos are my favorite genus now and I have about 11 now in my collection, I even got two of them to bloom for me over this past winter thanks to my two humidifiers and fan!! I totally enjoyed this video and learned info that I didn't know. I hope you do more like this in the future (maybe on the Miltonia/Miltoniopsis) they still hate me, but I'm still trying with them!! Thank you, again!!
Hello! We were wondering where you got all of those metal decorative pots in so many sizes. It seems you always have the right size when repotting. Thanks.
In my environment,I don't have much luck with "Regular Phalaenopsis" because it is quite hot.I cannot rebloom them.Never. Now,I am hoping I would be able to grow and rebloom this "Polychilos " type.I am buying a few and trying out.Wish me luck;)
This video came at the perfect time for me! I have several polychilos coming for my birthday. I found a wonderful orchid breeder that has fantastic low prices for mature size orchids. Woo-hoo! Anyway, my question is: my house is kept at 70-72 F. Winter. Summers are not that hot, usually 70’s with a few 80’s. I have a green house (not heated in the winter). It can get hot in the GH- 90’s easy. Should I keep my polychilos in there during summer to make sure they stay nice and hot? Or will it be ok to keep them in the house. It gets hot in the house too with no AC. But not like the greenhouse. Do you ever keep them outside? I really love all your videos! Old and new. Hope you and your family are well. My heart aches with yours!
Hi, I tried keeping my polys outside in 40 C a few years ago and I wasn't pleased. They grew vegetatively more than bloomed. My grow room had better results in 28-30 C!
I really love these polychilos phalaenopsis orchids!! 🥰🥰 most of my collection were polychilos because my temperature in ber months is not enough even for phalaenopsis schilleriana. very informative video MOG, make me buy more polychilos orchids and mini phalaenopsis as well 😁😁
I was treating all of my poly plus a few species the same and not letting them get completely dry. I’ve since read that sedirea japonica, mini mark and schilleriana need to dry within 2-3 days. Can you do a video on poly/species that we should pot to dry out within a few days?
Hi Danny! I’m not sure if you will see this comment but I wanted to ask you if you have ever seen a No ID Phal that looks like it has been crossed with a gigantea? I purchased a phal last year that has the largest (wide) flower spike I have ever seen. The leaves are also very long.
Do the flowers bloom bigger each year? I have one that the flowers seem to be getting bigger each time they bloom and I’m not sure if I’m imaging it or if it’s actually happening
Hello, I have started taking care of some orquids my wife has. She also said one of the rarest orquid is "Cranichis ricartii", native of Puerto Rico. This orquid is considered near extiction. What do you know of it? thank you I have learn much from you.
Hey, Danny - I loved your video! I've switched almost entirely to polychilos and Sogo types of phals. I just love the substance and waxiness of the flowers. 🤤 I was wondering what happened with the Anaconda that had the flower spike expressing some sort of peloria - did you try to propagate any of the knots/eyes with a keiki paste?
Love your videos,but never seen any of these more exotic orchids even garden centers,where do you source yours?, I live in the UK and have not found so many species of orchids.
Hi! Can U tell me how to take care of Phal. samara blue? Is it daily rutine as a every phal. hybryds? Or should I do something "special" for this hybryd?
I bought a violacea yesterday! I’ve watched another of your videos that features her and perhaps I’ve missed it but do they follow the same pattern for flower spikes that phal types do (3 and 4 leaves down from the crown between the leaves?). Mine has no spikes as of yet but I can not wait for the fragrance!
Hi, I am a beginner orchid grower. I have recently purchased 5 phal orchids. One has lost it's crown from what appeared to be stem rot. It started at the middle leaves when those fell off the entire crown laid down. Is there any advice you can give to one save the mother plant, and two grow new roots from the crown?
I also watched your other videos, I sprayed with peroxide and applied cinnamon to the stem which is still potted. I think I purchased it that way because I had to removed a plug, then removed dead roots, repotted, and soak the media to water; maybe I did something wrong. It was slightly leaning, but I did not notice any rotting spots, unless I overlooked it.
Hi, Danny! I've been wondering if you're still gonna upload to your other non shorts channel (the one with other houseplants and aquariums)? I do follow and get notification but with hectic schedules most ppl have (including me) have, sometimes it's easy to miss news so pardon me if there's about it somewhere. Take care and thanks for all the content, it's relaxing and motivational
Hi, sadly I don't think so.. I over estimated my free time.. again lol so aquariums will have to wait for some other time. I'll try to post on my shorts more, some short form content for busy ppl 😋
@missorchidgirl what am I doing wrong if I can't get my polychilos Guadalupe Pineda to spike? The spike it had dried out. Thanks for your help. I have great success with nursey bought phalaenopsis.
I bought one with 3 spikes, 8 blooms. I quickly dropped to 1 spike and 1 bloom. The other spikes turned yellow and died. I contacted the vendor and they said check the roots. She was packed tight in moss and had a good bit of dead roots. I have another that I bought in bloom- spike dried up and still isn’t producing another. I’m a spike killer :(
phal. amboinensis is not a complex hybrid or even primary hybrid. It’s a species that also occurs naturally, although that‘s usually not how ethical nurseries source theirs. It does indeed belong to the subgenus of polychilos, which belongs to the genus of Phalaenopsis, which belongs to the family of orchids (orchidaceae). An interesting tidbit (long read ahead) about naming conventions: only species, like your ambo phal, get named with lower caps entirely (a proper declaration will always list them as phal. amboinensis, not phal. Amboinensis. See also: phal. schilleriana, not phal. Schilleriana, phal. violacea, not Violacea and so on). This works in naming conventions to differentiate the species from simple hybrids - that’s hybrids crossed from two species - or complex hybrids, aka hybrids crossed from other hybrids entirely, or other hybrids and species. In species, nothing gets crossed so you just have the entire lineage in the name. A phal. amboinensis always has amboinensis parents on all sides if it‘s been grown from seed. meristem cloning or keikis are a copy of one plant only, so not relevant to the lineage discussion, but a meristem clone of an ambo is of course just as much of an ambo. Simple hybrids will name the natural forms they‘re crossed from in the lower caps style, but if named as a registered primary hybrid, the new registered name will be capitalised (think: phal. Mambo, a cross between the natural forms phal. mannii and phal. amboinensis). More complex hybrids *can* list all parents involved with their crosses (might not be possible for garden center/flower shop phals where this is not documented), but those crosses can in themselves be hybrids already. Think the phal. Tying Shin Fly Eagle, which is a complex hybrid between the species of phal. tetraspis and the complex hybrid Dragon Tree Eagle, the latter which is crossed from phal. Penang Girl x phal. Black Eagle, so to break it down even further ((violacea x venosa) x (Coral Nosa x George Vasquez)), after which it gets absurd to break down even further. But it has been registered so there’s publicly available info on the parents, grandparents, great grand parents etc, for example on the orchidroots website. Any additives (think phal. Tying Shin Fly Eagle 'T66‘, can also be written with „“) at the end of a name demarcate the exact plant they‘ve been cloned from as meristem clones. If you‘re unsure whether your orchid is a species, a primary hybrid or a complex hybrid, entering those names into orchid registry websites like orchidroots or the RHS orchid registry website can give you more info on the breeding history of your orchid, which can help you gain info on their care because traits that are relevant for care are of course passed down from ancestors to offspring, although not necessarily equal across all offspring if grown from seed, and not necessarily only with traits from the direct parents either. The range in a load of seeds from one attempt at crossing plants can be enormous, but generally, a lot of the plants you can buy will not be seedling grown but mericlones or otherwise kept more stable, unless you buy from orchid nurseries directly which will tell you exactly what the plant you buy is and is not. A mericlone or keiki will usually need the exact same care as the plant they‘ve been taken from, given that they are identical copies. A seedling-grown plant may have range in what their traits are, but there are more stable crosses (internal consistency) and more ranging crosses (wider variety of traits)
@ I expanded it.. no link to the video that you mentioned at the end. The video that deals with prices, nurseries, buying online. I found it eventually by searching. But a link to the video itself would have been handy!
I would disagree that they take the same care. I find that my polychilos orchids thrive when I keep them moist, but my cool-spiking phalaenopsis hybrids and species will rot if I don't let them fully dry out.
You might be interested in the massive „orchid care for beginners“ series that this account has published over the years. Also, before buying, check the state of the roots in the transparent pot (brown and mushy? Or none visible at all? Not good), state of the leaves and flowers (pests? Very bad. Infections? Suboptimal and potentially very bad also. Wrinkly roots? Could be underwatering, could be root rot, check the roots). Keep in mind that orchids that are in full bloom when being bought will likely drop some blooms in the environment change, and might stop blooming a short time after buying them because they don‘t bloom forever. That doesn‘t mean the plant is dead, just that it‘s concentrating on root and leaf growth in that time. Never water so that water is stuck in the leaf axis, that‘s a recipe for fungal and bacterial infections killing your plant. You know it‘s time to water if the transparent pot is no longer „misty“ and the roots inside the pot that you can see from outside have a silvery cast on them (do not wait until they are shrivelled like mummy fingers). If the pot is still a little cloudy or the roots are still vivid green, there’s still enough moisture, check again in a few days. Letting them sit in a water bath for five minutes or rinsing the pot thoroughly is generally good. water with additives like chlorine is bad, very hardy water might need to be stretched a little with distilled water, but never water with only distilled water because that causes electrolyte loss to the plant which can damage plant cells and kill your plant. If you grow orchids, a special orchid fertiliser dosed at half dosages in very soft water (you can always try to up dosage later) every second to fourth watering, and then rinsing the pot every non-fertiliser watering with non-fertiliser water to avoid salt buildup and thus root burn, sure is a good thing to do as well, but is not your first thing to worry about. If you come home with a new orchid, you also might notice that a plant is only up-potted, meaning that it is grown in a coco peat plug that‘s around the core of the roots and then just pushed in a bigger pot with the classic bark on the outside of the pot. That usually means that in colder regions, the root core in coco peat will rot due to never drying out properly and being too tightly compressing and smothering on the roots. It becomes harder for you to see whether the plant needs watering because the visible parts will look dry already while the core is still wet, but the external parts will need watering when the core still doesn’t. You can avoid this issue by repotting the plant into properly aerated medium, removing the plug (dani has good videos on repotting!). Phalaenopsis are not terrestrial plants, they need a chunky and lose medium allowing for air flow and humidity but not smothering wetness if potted. Nurseries generally have the setup to deal with those coco plugs and the plugs actually make sense for seedlings, but in home environments in non-tropical climates, they‘re usually overkill that can kill your plant. Hope I could help. Watch the orchid care for beginner series that MOG has, it’s good! Good luck.
Hey guys! Reminder you can visit rePotme for all your Orchid & Houseplant needs via my affiliate link! go.missorchidgirl.com/repotme
Ya, agreed. I am from Malaysia, My Phal bellina blooms all year round non stop for years with multiple spike and blooms but those hybrid that requires cooler temperature blooms only once every few years when the temperature was near to their blooming temperature and with very few flowers.
Yes - please do this more. I love learning about where the orchids are from across the globe!
They sure do!!! I have one that has been blooming for a year. It always has three or four bloomed, and before I lose one there is always one to take it’s place.
Sweet. I have been waiting for this video.
I've been binging your videos for the last two weeks and am stunned by the plethora of content going back several years. My fiancé got me an orchid out of a Kroger for our first anniversary (circa 2017 ish). After realizing it was an actual plant and not just a trimmed flower, I kind of haphazardly took care of it, doing just enough research to see how often I needed to water it. It rebloomed twice in the last five years, so I thought I was doing a pretty good job. However, after some serious dehydration neglect due to some mental health apathy and moving houses, I suddenly noticed it getting super leathery leaves and began to investigate when it did not recover from a regular watering. I've learned a massive amount of information in a short amount of time and I found some gorgeous medium and a nice bigger pot for her (she was still in her insanely tiny cup, I'm surprised she had not died after everything I've learned). After three days, her top two leaves are beginning to firm up and I feel like I'm out of the woods with her
phalaenopsis tetrabell is so pretty! I want one! Thank you for making this video, I didn't know half of that information
Great information! I’m ready to try different types. I’ve kept alive and rebloomed 5 phals for a few years now. Now, to figure out which direction to go!!
Thank You Very Much!!!
This was Such a JOY to watch ♥️🍀☀️😊
Hi I’m Jerlyn and watching from Philippines 🇵🇭 I’ve been watching your videos almost every day and following your methods on to repot and love watching your videos actually
Excellent video! I appreciate the intermediate level information. Thanks Danie!
Wow this was SO informative and helpful.
Thanks Dani! This was very helpful. I realized I am keeping my Polychilos too cold in the winter. Hopefully I will have more success going forward (they barely grow all winter!).
That's what my bellina was doing before moving here, 6-7 years ago when I lived in Ro. Here it's growing faster and for longer since it's sub tropical 😁 warmth def helps!
Thank you so much for this really interesting video! Love these more "technical" ones. 👍
Thank you for presentation.
nice video. I love flowers and orchids.
Hi dani, to shed some more insight to the topic of cold temp for schilleriana blooming, the Philippines experience the northwestmoonson aka amihan season from oct to feb , which characteristized by the overall drop in temp which is the reason why the P. Schilleriana and other species is prompted to bloom in that season.
I have two 'teenage' Bellina 'Ponkan' and a young Bellina 'Coerulea' though with it's long and thin leaves, I have a feeling it may not actually be one. It should be quite a suprise in a few years. I cannot WAIT until the Bellinas bloom and I can smell them for myself. I have a Sedirea Japonica 'Minmaru' in bud, 6 so far!!! I'm am absolutely thrilled to see and smell those as well. I've moved over to more fragrant phals and Cattleyas...as I love beautiful natural scents. You walk by my orchid shelf to go into my living area and I'm so excited to smell them as I walk by! Thank you for all of your advice. Now if I could only get Cattleyas to not lose all of their roots after repotting! I have a Catt. Maxima 'Coerulea' in AMAZING health but needs a repot due to vigorous growth but I'm scared!!! Lol.
Glad to hear! Ps: how do you grow your sedirea? It seems to be my nemesis grrrr 😬
@@MissOrchidGirl I potted it in very loose sphagnum in a net pot. I also 'up-potted' it with the moss not touching the bottom of the stem. I let it completely dry before re-watering but do keep it near a pebble tray. I hope that helps!
Thanks! What temps?
@@MissOrchidGirl I'm sub-tropical, so about 70°-73°F and 60-80% humidity (in the house!)
I’ve found after trying to make two attempts at growing a younger polychilos specimen is they will develop crown rot really easily unless kept in perfect growing conditions for their subgenus. I’ve lost both plants to crown rot and am giving up unless I could actually find a full grown adult plant to purchase one day. Most people will need a greenhouse to keep these happy unless they live in a very warm tropical region. I got a heated seed mat for my second one, but it was too late - crown rot had already set in. These seem to be a little unrealistic for the average hobbyist growing phals in their home. I don’t think Danni stressed this. Just my opinion after two frustrating losses.
Sending our love from the Philippines 😘😘
Your Phalaenopsis schilleriana looks so healthy. I know, to many light can kill P. schilleriana. What is the light level (lux) that you look after P. schilleriana?
I just got a Bellina coerulea And a schilleriana with no spike. I’m excited to smell the fragrance, wish me luck !
Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Dani, thank you, thank you, thank you for this video!! Polychilos are my favorite genus now and I have about 11 now in my collection, I even got two of them to bloom for me over this past winter thanks to my two humidifiers and fan!! I totally enjoyed this video and learned info that I didn't know. I hope you do more like this in the future (maybe on the Miltonia/Miltoniopsis) they still hate me, but I'm still trying with them!! Thank you, again!!
Where did you buy your polychilos? I can't find a seller of them. This is the PERFECT orchid for me. So where did you get yours?
Hello! We were wondering where you got all of those metal decorative pots in so many sizes. It seems you always have the right size when repotting. Thanks.
In my environment,I don't have much luck with "Regular Phalaenopsis" because it is quite hot.I cannot rebloom them.Never.
Now,I am hoping I would be able to grow and rebloom this "Polychilos " type.I am buying a few and trying out.Wish me luck;)
Awesome video! Thank you for sharing. ❤ I have been looking at the Bellina. Still torn if I will buy one. They look beautiful.
next on my wish list....
This video came at the perfect time for me! I have several polychilos coming for my birthday. I found a wonderful orchid breeder that has fantastic low prices for mature size orchids. Woo-hoo! Anyway, my question is: my house is kept at 70-72 F. Winter. Summers are not that hot, usually 70’s with a few 80’s. I have a green house (not heated in the winter). It can get hot in the GH- 90’s easy. Should I keep my polychilos in there during summer to make sure they stay nice and hot? Or will it be ok to keep them in the house. It gets hot in the house too with no AC. But not like the greenhouse. Do you ever keep them outside? I really love all your videos! Old and new. Hope you and your family are well. My heart aches with yours!
Hi, I tried keeping my polys outside in 40 C a few years ago and I wasn't pleased. They grew vegetatively more than bloomed. My grow room had better results in 28-30 C!
I really love these polychilos phalaenopsis orchids!! 🥰🥰 most of my collection were polychilos because my temperature in ber months is not enough even for phalaenopsis schilleriana. very informative video MOG, make me buy more polychilos orchids and mini phalaenopsis as well 😁😁
Hello, what a beautiful plants🥰🥰🥰 how you clean the leaves of the orchids.???
I was treating all of my poly plus a few species the same and not letting them get completely dry. I’ve since read that sedirea japonica, mini mark and schilleriana need to dry within 2-3 days. Can you do a video on poly/species that we should pot to dry out within a few days?
Hi Danny! I’m not sure if you will see this comment but I wanted to ask you if you have ever seen a No ID Phal that looks like it has been crossed with a gigantea? I purchased a phal last year that has the largest (wide) flower spike I have ever seen. The leaves are also very long.
Do the flowers bloom bigger each year? I have one that the flowers seem to be getting bigger each time they bloom and I’m not sure if I’m imaging it or if it’s actually happening
Hello, I have started taking care of some orquids my wife has. She also said one of the rarest orquid is "Cranichis ricartii", native of Puerto Rico. This orquid is considered near extiction. What do you know of it?
thank you I have learn much from you.
Hey, Danny - I loved your video! I've switched almost entirely to polychilos and Sogo types of phals. I just love the substance and waxiness of the flowers. 🤤 I was wondering what happened with the Anaconda that had the flower spike expressing some sort of peloria - did you try to propagate any of the knots/eyes with a keiki paste?
Hi Dani, I love your channel! How soon should I fertilize after a repotting of phalaenopsis?
what temp do you keep your poly growing area?
Love your videos,but never seen any of these more exotic orchids even garden centers,where do you source yours?, I live in the UK and have not found so many species of orchids.
Online
Hi! Can U tell me how to take care of Phal. samara blue? Is it daily rutine as a every phal. hybryds? Or should I do something "special" for this hybryd?
I bought a violacea yesterday! I’ve watched another of your videos that features her and perhaps I’ve missed it but do they follow the same pattern for flower spikes that phal types do (3 and 4 leaves down from the crown between the leaves?). Mine has no spikes as of yet but I can not wait for the fragrance!
Hi Dany! I really love polychilos! And talking about monopodial orchids, how is the chiloschista doing?
Not well .. could not keep up with watering, don't think it's for me right now 😬
Hi, I am a beginner orchid grower. I have recently purchased 5 phal orchids. One has lost it's crown from what appeared to be stem rot. It started at the middle leaves when those fell off the entire crown laid down. Is there any advice you can give to one save the mother plant, and two grow new roots from the crown?
I also watched your other videos, I sprayed with peroxide and applied cinnamon to the stem which is still potted. I think I purchased it that way because I had to removed a plug, then removed dead roots, repotted, and soak the media to water; maybe I did something wrong. It was slightly leaning, but I did not notice any rotting spots, unless I overlooked it.
Thanks your sharing...👍👍
Hi, Danny! I've been wondering if you're still gonna upload to your other non shorts channel (the one with other houseplants and aquariums)? I do follow and get notification but with hectic schedules most ppl have (including me) have, sometimes it's easy to miss news so pardon me if there's about it somewhere. Take care and thanks for all the content, it's relaxing and motivational
Hi, sadly I don't think so.. I over estimated my free time.. again lol so aquariums will have to wait for some other time. I'll try to post on my shorts more, some short form content for busy ppl 😋
Hey Danny. The silver pots you have in the background - are those the pots that waters for you? :) It looks so similar to that watering pot!
@missorchidgirl what am I doing wrong if I can't get my polychilos Guadalupe Pineda to spike? The spike it had dried out. Thanks for your help. I have great success with nursey bought phalaenopsis.
Hi, give it a bit more time and warmth. If it's healthy and has room on the axis, it will spike at some point!
@@MissOrchidGirl thank you. It has been two years. Maybe I am not keeping it warm enough?
I bought one with 3 spikes, 8 blooms. I quickly dropped to 1 spike and 1 bloom. The other spikes turned yellow and died. I contacted the vendor and they said check the roots. She was packed tight in moss and had a good bit of dead roots. I have another that I bought in bloom- spike dried up and still isn’t producing another. I’m a spike killer :(
love these I blame you lol you got me in to them I have a growing collection :)
Trying to contact rePotme and I can't figure out why my messages don't go through. Do you know if they ship to Canada?
I have a phal amboinensis. It looks like a poly phal. It is blooming a lot and has a little fragrance. Is it a poly phal hybrid?
phal. amboinensis is not a complex hybrid or even primary hybrid. It’s a species that also occurs naturally, although that‘s usually not how ethical nurseries source theirs. It does indeed belong to the subgenus of polychilos, which belongs to the genus of Phalaenopsis, which belongs to the family of orchids (orchidaceae).
An interesting tidbit (long read ahead) about naming conventions: only species, like your ambo phal, get named with lower caps entirely (a proper declaration will always list them as phal. amboinensis, not phal. Amboinensis. See also: phal. schilleriana, not phal. Schilleriana, phal. violacea, not Violacea and so on).
This works in naming conventions to differentiate the species from simple hybrids - that’s hybrids crossed from two species - or complex hybrids, aka hybrids crossed from other hybrids entirely, or other hybrids and species.
In species, nothing gets crossed so you just have the entire lineage in the name. A phal. amboinensis always has amboinensis parents on all sides if it‘s been grown from seed. meristem cloning or keikis are a copy of one plant only, so not relevant to the lineage discussion, but a meristem clone of an ambo is of course just as much of an ambo.
Simple hybrids will name the natural forms they‘re crossed from in the lower caps style, but if named as a registered primary hybrid, the new registered name will be capitalised (think: phal. Mambo, a cross between the natural forms phal. mannii and phal. amboinensis).
More complex hybrids *can* list all parents involved with their crosses (might not be possible for garden center/flower shop phals where this is not documented), but those crosses can in themselves be hybrids already. Think the phal. Tying Shin Fly Eagle, which is a complex hybrid between the species of phal. tetraspis and the complex hybrid Dragon Tree Eagle, the latter which is crossed from phal. Penang Girl x phal. Black Eagle, so to break it down even further ((violacea x venosa) x (Coral Nosa x George Vasquez)), after which it gets absurd to break down even further. But it has been registered so there’s publicly available info on the parents, grandparents, great grand parents etc, for example on the orchidroots website. Any additives (think phal. Tying Shin Fly Eagle 'T66‘, can also be written with „“) at the end of a name demarcate the exact plant they‘ve been cloned from as meristem clones.
If you‘re unsure whether your orchid is a species, a primary hybrid or a complex hybrid, entering those names into orchid registry websites like orchidroots or the RHS orchid registry website can give you more info on the breeding history of your orchid, which can help you gain info on their care because traits that are relevant for care are of course passed down from ancestors to offspring, although not necessarily equal across all offspring if grown from seed, and not necessarily only with traits from the direct parents either. The range in a load of seeds from one attempt at crossing plants can be enormous, but generally, a lot of the plants you can buy will not be seedling grown but mericlones or otherwise kept more stable, unless you buy from orchid nurseries directly which will tell you exactly what the plant you buy is and is not.
A mericlone or keiki will usually need the exact same care as the plant they‘ve been taken from, given that they are identical copies. A seedling-grown plant may have range in what their traits are, but there are more stable crosses (internal consistency) and more ranging crosses (wider variety of traits)
I don't see the link to the Orchid Sources video
Hi, not sure what you mean, but all the sources are linked in the description just expand it :)
@ I expanded it.. no link to the video that you mentioned at the end. The video that deals with prices, nurseries, buying online. I found it eventually by searching. But a link to the video itself would have been handy!
I'd love to get my hands on a Phal. Scilleriana but can't find one anywhere in the UK! HAven't seen any for months. *sad face*
Keep looking, it will show up when you least expect! 🤞
Do you keep phals that don’t bloom?
... they all bloom 😁
I would disagree that they take the same care. I find that my polychilos orchids thrive when I keep them moist, but my cool-spiking phalaenopsis hybrids and species will rot if I don't let them fully dry out.
🌱💚
Bellinas scent is way too strong for me. I would give a heads up to anyone who is allergic to strong scents. :)
Si seulement il y avait les sous titres en français,😭
I take them home n they die. I buy another n take it home, and they die! SOo frustrating!
You might be interested in the massive „orchid care for beginners“ series that this account has published over the years. Also, before buying, check the state of the roots in the transparent pot (brown and mushy? Or none visible at all? Not good), state of the leaves and flowers (pests? Very bad. Infections? Suboptimal and potentially very bad also. Wrinkly roots? Could be underwatering, could be root rot, check the roots). Keep in mind that orchids that are in full bloom when being bought will likely drop some blooms in the environment change, and might stop blooming a short time after buying them because they don‘t bloom forever. That doesn‘t mean the plant is dead, just that it‘s concentrating on root and leaf growth in that time. Never water so that water is stuck in the leaf axis, that‘s a recipe for fungal and bacterial infections killing your plant. You know it‘s time to water if the transparent pot is no longer „misty“ and the roots inside the pot that you can see from outside have a silvery cast on them (do not wait until they are shrivelled like mummy fingers). If the pot is still a little cloudy or the roots are still vivid green, there’s still enough moisture, check again in a few days. Letting them sit in a water bath for five minutes or rinsing the pot thoroughly is generally good. water with additives like chlorine is bad, very hardy water might need to be stretched a little with distilled water, but never water with only distilled water because that causes electrolyte loss to the plant which can damage plant cells and kill your plant. If you grow orchids, a special orchid fertiliser dosed at half dosages in very soft water (you can always try to up dosage later) every second to fourth watering, and then rinsing the pot every non-fertiliser watering with non-fertiliser water to avoid salt buildup and thus root burn, sure is a good thing to do as well, but is not your first thing to worry about.
If you come home with a new orchid, you also might notice that a plant is only up-potted, meaning that it is grown in a coco peat plug that‘s around the core of the roots and then just pushed in a bigger pot with the classic bark on the outside of the pot. That usually means that in colder regions, the root core in coco peat will rot due to never drying out properly and being too tightly compressing and smothering on the roots. It becomes harder for you to see whether the plant needs watering because the visible parts will look dry already while the core is still wet, but the external parts will need watering when the core still doesn’t.
You can avoid this issue by repotting the plant into properly aerated medium, removing the plug (dani has good videos on repotting!). Phalaenopsis are not terrestrial plants, they need a chunky and lose medium allowing for air flow and humidity but not smothering wetness if potted. Nurseries generally have the setup to deal with those coco plugs and the plugs actually make sense for seedlings, but in home environments in non-tropical climates, they‘re usually overkill that can kill your plant.
Hope I could help. Watch the orchid care for beginner series that MOG has, it’s good! Good luck.