The stud on the back side is an leveling adjustment for the case and rests against the floor/carpet. You loosen the jam nut and extend the bolt downward to the floor. It also keeps the unit from rattling/vibrating. Some have a rubber tip that fits over the pointed bottom.
In this time frame, Ford did not put AC in these cars at the factory. But AC became so popular, this dealer-installed unit was made available. It was not "factory" AC.
I love this Chanel guys y’all have helped me with many installations in my 66, I prefer to do it myself so the videos are awesome, keep it going for us✊🏼
I don't have an ac unit for a Mustang, or a Mustang for that matter. But I do have an old Montgomery ward unit in my GMC that is very similar functionally. I'm able to gleen some good info from this, so thanks!
Yes, take his advice and DO NOT use a heavy-duty cleaning solution to clean the fiberglass casing. I learned this the hard way a few weeks ago when I cleaned mine in my laundry tub with some diluted Simple Green and a dish cleaning brush. It cleaned up the case really nicely. But after drying, I soon realized to my horror that all of the paint was flaking off! I ended up having to re-paint the entire thing.
Thank you for this knowledge. One question… if the fan motor goes out where could I find one? Is there a good replacement part for it? Maybe with more power and such. Thank you
another great video guys! I was wondering ( seeing how you guys are pretty knowledgeable about this stuff ) if a guy could try to manipulate an old case like the one you guys are working on. On my 68 one of the heater box case sides has a very large bend in it and the tongue and grove slots dont align. Maybe with a heat gun or something. thanks anyways!
If possible, would you please advise how the tube from the temp switch is supposed to be placed in or near the fins of the under dash ac to control how cool the unit is to operate. This would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
In between the fins about half way through the thickness, generally toward the last tube going out. That allows you to adjust to prevent coil condensation icing. (expansion valve is on the input end) Not terribly critical.
ES12a Industrial refrigerant is fantastic. Colder than 12 and super efficient (with less head pressure) especially if youre using a little sanden type compressor. Remember the evaporator is still the R12 tubes. Use an 134 condenser for best efficiency. ES12a Ind. still works wonders in the original compressor systems and R12 expansion valves and is compatible with all oils.
My original 1963 Mark 4 brand unit at maximum fan drops more than 35* Delta drop with ES12a industrial. That means air coming in the back to out the front drops 35* in one pass. Vintage Air will told me that 20+ is acceptable...... But 35 is better.
BTW the sanden type compressors pump about half the freon as the factory York, Tecumseh, Motorcraft compressors did.... Below 1600 rpm. So if you want cold idling and cruising, use ES12a industrial. Less than 2 cans = $15.
I was looking at all that crap on the evaporator which, on the video at least, looks like caked on mud. I thought the evap was maybe going to get dipped into a tray of hot soapy water. It looked to me like blowing it out with air didn't really clear much out of it all.
Actually, it cleaned it quite well. The soap and water routine can help. but most folks can't get the water pressure to really do it justice. If you take it to a spray car wash or have a pressure washer.
Can this unit be used with modern ac gas? Cause you can’t find the old gas anywhere to recharge. No ones seems to explain this. Really need help. I know you need to change everything under the hood but what about this unit?
Hello family. I have a 1992 FORD MUSTANG GT that was restored but doesn't have AC. I'm willing to loan her to your show for a underdash AC install if you like. Let us know...
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The stud on the back side is an leveling adjustment for the case and rests against the floor/carpet. You loosen the jam nut and extend the bolt downward to the floor. It also keeps the unit from rattling/vibrating. Some have a rubber tip that fits over the pointed bottom.
In this time frame, Ford did not put AC in these cars at the factory. But AC became so popular, this dealer-installed unit was made available. It was not "factory" AC.
I love this Chanel guys y’all have helped me with many installations in my 66, I prefer to do it myself so the videos are awesome, keep it going for us✊🏼
great information here. Thanks. David
Coming back to this after viewing a year ago. Getting ready to slowly restore a 64.5.
Glad to hear!
I don't have an ac unit for a Mustang, or a Mustang for that matter. But I do have an old Montgomery ward unit in my GMC that is very similar functionally. I'm able to gleen some good info from this, so thanks!
The foam motor mount can be made from a beer can couzy.
Great video thanks
Tub and tile cleaner works well for the evap core. Avoid CLR tho.
My under dash A/C case chipped right in the area of right top screw goes.Any suggestion?
Yes, take his advice and DO NOT use a heavy-duty cleaning solution to clean the fiberglass casing. I learned this the hard way a few weeks ago when I cleaned mine in my laundry tub with some diluted Simple Green and a dish cleaning brush. It cleaned up the case really nicely. But after drying, I soon realized to my horror that all of the paint was flaking off! I ended up having to re-paint the entire thing.
Thank you for this knowledge.
One question… if the fan motor goes out where could I find one?
Is there a good replacement part for it? Maybe with more power and such.
Thank you
Contact classic auto air out of Florida. www.clasdicautoair.com
You could clean the motor with isopropyl alcohol if you need to do more then dry brush. It will not damage the electronics
+ICEW0LF137 Good point Wolf! We prefer to "leave the sleeping dogs lay" since the motor and cage are tucked away behind the core.
another great video guys! I was wondering ( seeing how you guys are pretty knowledgeable about this stuff ) if a guy could try to manipulate an old case like the one you guys are working on. On my 68 one of the heater box case sides has a very large bend in it and the tongue and grove slots dont align. Maybe with a heat gun or something. thanks anyways!
+Benjamin Miller. com We'll talk to Larry about that. He has a ton of experience with fiberglass.
much appreciated!
If possible, would you please advise how the tube from the temp switch is supposed to be placed in or near the fins of the under dash ac to control how cool the unit is to operate. This would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
In between the fins about half way through the thickness, generally toward the last tube going out. That allows you to adjust to prevent coil condensation icing.
(expansion valve is on the input end)
Not terribly critical.
Could we get a link to the other video? I think it was ep 110? (Yes, I'm lazy)
+David Plass Oops. Yeaaaah. We meant to do that. We'll add it to the vidoe but here it is in the comments: th-cam.com/video/wKF2ePbnp3k/w-d-xo.html
Thanks!
OK what compressor can I use with original evaporator ?
I'd use a Sanden. Contact Classic Auto Air (www.classicautoair) for the best one to use.
Is your system going to be r12? Or can you make it work on 134a?
We'll be going 134.
ES12a Industrial refrigerant is fantastic.
Colder than 12 and super efficient (with less head pressure) especially if youre using a little sanden type compressor. Remember the evaporator is still the R12 tubes.
Use an 134 condenser for best efficiency.
ES12a Ind. still works wonders in the original compressor systems and R12 expansion valves and is compatible with all oils.
My original 1963 Mark 4 brand unit at maximum fan drops more than 35* Delta drop with ES12a industrial.
That means air coming in the back to out the front drops 35* in one pass.
Vintage Air will told me that 20+ is acceptable......
But 35 is better.
BTW the sanden type compressors pump about half the freon as the factory York, Tecumseh, Motorcraft compressors did.... Below 1600 rpm.
So if you want cold idling and cruising, use ES12a industrial.
Less than 2 cans = $15.
I was looking at all that crap on the evaporator which, on the video at least, looks like caked on mud. I thought the evap was maybe going to get dipped into a tray of hot soapy water.
It looked to me like blowing it out with air didn't really clear much out of it all.
Actually, it cleaned it quite well. The soap and water routine can help. but most folks can't get the water pressure to really do it justice. If you take it to a spray car wash or have a pressure washer.
Pressure will bend the fins.
Use brake cleaner and blow dry.
Since you're already using lacquer thinner, use that.
Can this unit be used with modern ac gas? Cause you can’t find the old gas anywhere to recharge. No ones seems to explain this. Really need help. I know you need to change everything under the hood but what about this unit?
You can update the system to R134.
Hello family. I have a 1992 FORD MUSTANG GT that was restored but doesn't have AC. I'm willing to loan her to your show for a underdash AC install if you like. Let us know...
Could you just run new wiring?
+Shannon Helton Yes. The wiring is available. But this was in decent shape and we don't feel the need to change it out.
Pitbull latindo
Only thing I got out of this is Jeff needs to hit the gym.
And you need to hit the pause button on your typing. Find a filter for your thoughts, be nice.
@@AutoRestoMod Great reply! Thank you for this video.