rey0176 I'm going with the process of having more air volume in the chamber, similar to a large "whale penis" intake thar can be shoved into the TB/manifold.
Damn man, really appreciate that comment CODA! I also love how you comment on other people's comments helping them out and shooting them in the right direction!! Super cool of you, and much appreciated, that's exactly what I'm all about, helping one another out!
awesome video again, even when I already know how to do everything it's just relaxing to me to watch you do it :D btw don't forget to mention that you have to torque the intake manifold to engine bolts/nuts in the correct order for anyone trying to do this for themselves, otherwise they'll get huge vacuum leaks :p
Jon Widmer so you just did them in a random order ? I used a hondata gasket with an edelbrock performerX intake and I had to torque them in the correct order/pattern or else it had a big vacuum leak
falZ wow, that sucks. I always start from the center nut/bolt in between the 2nd and 3rd runner then work my way out til I reach the ends. I've had great results doing it this way. I even did the MPFI manifold on my d15 on the wagon with an or gasket and it's been great. What is the torque sequence?
Jon Widmer haha, that actually is the sequence, from inside to outside, thats why you never had the problem. first time I did it was on a 1999 integra type R and there was such lilited space to reach everything so I torqued them on reachable basis :p had to redo it from the inside outwards :D
falZ aw perfect! lol. I probably knew it from doing so many over the years that it just became habit. I need to remind myself to include these small bits in the video sometimes because I forget not everyone has been playing with the cars like we have, some are virgins popping the automotive cherry!!
Hi great video. I have a 97 crv upgrading to 70mm throttlebody. Problem where did you put the throttle motor from the bottom of the old throttle body. Also how to route the hoses to it. Really need assistance with this.
Awesome Video. Thx for all the help not just this particular video but all your work. Just a question. Did you use your original throttle cable? I’m having issues with idle. My car won’t start unless I’m holding the throttle down and maybe after a minute the car will stay on but idle super low. My ef runs great once I’m on the road but any stop it revs low again. I tighten my cable and still starts low at a cold start but once it warms up now at stops it idles way high. I’m stumped. I have the same swap. Everything’s been replaced just never removed the tps which is still oem with the rivets.
Just re-watched this video because I have basically the same setup on my 90 hatch with a ZC swap. I also had a high idle that turned out to be a vacuum leak (I put the throttle body gasket in upside down). I was wondering if you ever got the idle down and where you ended up setting your fuel pressure and the air idle screw. Thanks again for the great videos.
I have a 97 Civic Coupe that I will be turboing after I pass inspection. I have a 70mm tb and much more but I plan to run a cat in street tune to reduce my emissions but swap it out when I go to the road course and race it....
I just wanted to check and ask, the injectors other manifold bits you were using on this setup were for a b18a1 or b1 right. I'm getting a b20 this weekend that comes with a skunk2 mani/tb and an aem fuel rail that has no injectors or anything on it so I'm starting from scratch finding parts for them lol
Awesome vid!! So are you going to dyno it? curious as to how the power curves look. I want it on my B20 but kinda scared I'll lose too much low-end torque. Running the stock b20z mani now.
Roel Pastors man, it feels hella strong! My butt-dyno loves it! lol. The motor has a lot of torque to begin with, if I lost a little but gained top end, it's worth it. It has more than needed, some top end will help me out when I take this car to the track .
Yeah you'll probably gain more on top than lose down low. But I kinda made a challenge/sport out of it to create a motor with super great low-end :) When I finish the EJ B20 coupe I'm thinking of getting an EF as second car.If you do a dyno a vid would be so great. Really big fan of your vids, got to love '90's Honda's ! \m/
HONDA MASTER!back at it again! cant wait to see some gangsta track footage of this track beast tearing it up again! Awesome vid love the knowledge you kick! appreciate the hard work keep it up!👍✌☝😎
Hey man, been watching your video for a while now. I have a 1990 Honda Civic Hatchback EF and I need to find upper control arms for the front that are adjustable because my alignment shop says I need them cause the current ones I have are non-adjustable. Can you help a bro out?
CarsNfish Thanks man, I love the b20. I've been playing with this one for about 15 months now and it's a great engine. My "butt dyno" tells me I gained some top end at the track. It definitely feels like it at WOT also. I will get it dyno'd again once I get the header I want plus a test pipe installed. With that setup that I had before the IM/TB install it made 136 whp at 3800 ft elevation.
Jon Widmer yea ok I'm thinking of installing it on my b18a1 it's a 93 da it was an auto when i got it but i converted it to 5 speed so the manifold has a bunch of junk
Love your videos . Now to each their own but after a bad sticking throttle blade and numerous other build flaws with Skunk 2 parts. I thoroughly hate the company and the parts. K tuned only for me. Just curious how the throttle body from skunk2 was fairing on your build?
I haven't had an issue at all. I recently put the same throttle body on my Si and that one has been fine too. I'll have to research the sticking throttle plate, I haven't read about it. I wonder if adjusting the throttle plate stop on the front would help the sticking issue?
Hey Jon, excellent video man really enjoyed it. I have a USDM B20B motor im planning on running this on with the 66mm alpha TB. My question is, can I run this on OBD2 ECU until I get my chipped ECU with hondata for tuning? I know it wont run optimally without tune, but if I do it correctly will it run?
Thanks for the support !! Yes, probably not optimally like you said but it should run just fine. I'm still running obd0 90-91 integra parts on my jdm b20b and when I did the swap with the IM & TB I didn't have an issue at all. Still runs super hard!
For sure thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I am running OBD2 stock ECU until I can afford OBD1 Hondata S300 set up, either way i think my engine is gasping for more air and really needs it if my stock ecu can keep up with the fuel trim. My concern was on the stock high rise giraffe B20 intake there are two vacuum hoses in the front, one is the PCV and the other goes down to the fuel rail. But on the Skunk2, there is only one for the PCV. Where could i re route this other vaccum?
If this was swapped in an EK and tuned on an OBD1 Ecu of our choice- would it still get by emissions with a jumper harness etc? No CELs? I live in a crazy state PA.! 🤨
Hey Jon, thanks to your videos I was able to swap out the 1.5L DPFI in my 90 hatchback for a ZC 1.6L. I've been thinking about getting a Skunk2 set up for it, but I have a question. Don't you need to switch out the injectors to match the increased airflow?
ive been trying to get time to get a vid but im haveing trouble figureing out why my driver side low beam headlight wont work ive changed out the socket and bulbs no luck and fuae seems good
Thanks! It was DIY. I stripped it completely, then painted using the engine paint and it's the Grabber Green color. I can't remember the name of the paint but I bought it at AutoZone.
When putting on the shock tower bar you should Jack up the car from the front center and adjust it so it is pushing on both towers so when turning it pushes down on the other side and actually does something. Just a tip hope it helps.
Hey man awesome video. I see you didn’t film the pain of a process of actually removing and installing the bottom manifold bolts. Did you do them from the engine bay or up underneath the car? Just got my mani removed and got the bolts from up above but it was a real PITA. Just want to know how to make install as smooth as possible
I used a couple extensions and bend-joints and removed some from the top and 1-2 from the bottom. I can't remember which order as I just kept working on them until I got them out.
Awesome job. Thanks for sharing. Now just peel that adhesive protector film off the Skunk2 lettering badge. They look really good with that film removed.
My throttle body doesn’t have those holes for the little hoses …. I’m having trouble with p1507 p1509 how can I fix that? Do I need to chip my computer ?
One of the best channels on youtube. Tried to do my front springs on my lude with your video, turns out the lude sh has a sway bar in the way of the 17mm bolt at he bottom fork. Will need a hoist :(
Matteo Coutant Really? It wasn't like how the sway bar was attached in my video? The radius rod does block the bolt at the bottom of the fork but you can remove it if the bolt was put in the wrong way.
I’m in a Honda sponsored program right now, I’m not sure if I’m going to become a tech or have this as a hobby. Might mix a bit of both and stay in the industry doing business
+Matteo Coutant Hopefully if it turns into a job you don't get sick of working on your own car. It happened to two of my really good friends, but sometimes it just works out that way.
Hi Jon, Nice video! I'm looking into DPFI to B20 swap. Quick two questions: 1, on 7:40, two water lines on the intake manifold, the larger one goes to thermostat housing, the smaller one goes to which part of the thermostat housing? 2, Why I don't see the FITV on the stock intake? It's deleted?
One loops from thermo housing to intake manifold. The other goes to your heater core. Yes, the FITV is deleted on this intake manifold. I had the holes welded up and it was powder coated.
@@GarageBuiltHondas Where does the small water nipple on the stock intake manifold go to? Did you Tee it to the thermostat housing, or you plugged it? Can i plug it if I want to delete FITV?
As long as the hoses go somewhere, then it really doesn't matter. To can delete the FITV if you wish, not recommended if you live someplace cold though.
Is that an Obx type R racing strut? If it is we're twinning Jon! I have a matching one! Haha. Just got in my Hasport Cable to Hydro conversion setup. I was thinking about doing review video since I have it installed, would you be interested in me sending you some footage to perhaps use as a new diy video. If you know anyone with that has that obnoxious cable clutch issue like me, that conversion might be the answer! Haha.
Hey a couple questions, I'm running this intake manifold on my b18. I've watched your video probably 50 times. I'm stuck at where to run my hose from my charcoal canister. Do I run it to the top of the throttle body or to the far back of the manifold? Also I don't have a second coooant hose that comes from the thermal housing to the manifold. Is it okay to only hook up the bigger inlet and leave the smaller inlet line open?? Thanks for making videos!!
Hey jon, I'm getting mixed reviews on calibrating the tps sensor. People say to warm up the car first, then test the TPS. Everytime I've tried to calibrate my tps I get .5 closed and 3.5 to 3.6 WOT. I checked the voltage on the middle wire, all was good. checked my ground wire, all is good. I've tried like 3 different tps sensors and they all do the same thing.
Its not with anything skunk2. I have an 89 integra, all oem. It's auto, ( im doing a swap to 5speed soon, but the tps not being calibrated correctly causes all sorts of shifting and rpm issues. I want it gone. I want to figure it out today if possiblen
Nope. Not at all. Im going try again today. I will tear the wire housing so i can see if i get a better reading. I'm going to bet that's what my issue is.
I got up to 4.3. Car shifts way better now. At least I'm on the right track. Loosened and re positioned the throttle cables on both the pedal and auto trans. Messing with the auto trans shifter cable really helped. I messed with both of them and got a happy medium. Gonna mess with it some more to see if I can get 4.5 at WOT
So what does the second plug actually go to the one that you just taped up? I’m curious. And I want to do this to my project. I’m just scared to make the next move. Thank you
None so far. The idle air adjustment screw was all the way in so I couldn't use that to lower the idle. After finishing up all the vacuum lines (new line from booster to manifold, and from manifold to charcoal canister) it idle lower. After it reaches operating temp I was getting a 900-1000 idle. Lastly, I'm going to tinker with the IACV gasket as mine seemed flat so maybe that shall help. I haven't adjusted the cable or the stop on the throttle plate yet. It had got to be something simple, I have the same intake manifold on my Si with the B16 and it idles like a champ. We'll see how it goes!
Dat 1 Song Some in a pretty low HP setup such as mine, but it's needed if you want to continue to gain power with an opened up exhaust system/header combo and future tuning and/or cam upgrades. With what I added, maybe 4-9 HP hopefully!!
Change that junk2 spring on the throttlebody or you Will have problem with it :) 2/2 of my throttlebodys got revhang after some usage...on the alpha i changed to oem spring and on the Pro series i redrilled to put more tension on the spring and problems was solved
Thanks for that feedback, now I know what'll need to be done if I'm experiencing any issues. Luckily this TB has been perfect. I haven't had one issue at at thankfully!
Why does Amazon tell me the throttle body isn’t a fit, I have b20b motor in my crv I’m trying to make some upgrades on. 4 years late to the comments but if you can help me out that would be great :D
Question sir: where does your little hose from the water pipe on the back of the motor connect to? Mine goes from the water pipe to the iacv, I'm just wondering where yours goes with the way you ran your iacv water hose straight to the water neck under dizzy. Did you cap that water pipe line off?
MegaDankone The hose nipple under the dizzy went to the TB, then out that back of the TB to the IACV. I just eliminated it running through the TB, I didn't want it to heat up the TB any more, I'm trying to keep it as cool as possible.
For the 2 throttle body ports that were bypassed, do I put vacuum caps on those? Can I also cap the port to the EVAP Canister since I don't have one? On the intake manifold, it has a large and small coolant port. I know the larger one gets used, but do I also cap the one right next to it?
Yes. Yes. You can cap off whatever you're not needing. For instance, some people remove the heater core and thus you'll cap off the lines which lead to it. So any that are not needed in your setup, you may cap off.
Hey Jon, do you have a link to that 3" intake you bought, been looking to buy one for my hatch but not sure about the fitment with a b series. Thanks in advance
Effin Eduardo I just installed it today. I had to cut some of it off where it met the throttle body but it fits now. Was still kind of pain. Search (Crx 3" intake), that'll bring you to it. I paid like $35 shipped.
You'll need a regulator that's not dependable on the rail. AEM makes one as well as other companies. jhpusa.com/products/aem-universal-adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulator
I think alone, probably not much maybe 3-5 hp. But with all the other bolt-ons it'll definitely help. My b20 is pretty darn strong as it sits with all the bolt ons.
@@GarageBuiltHondas An additional 3-5hp isn't bad at all. Skunk2 is having a Black Friday sale if you weren't aware. I'm going to go ahead an order that S2 manifold.
.hey boss....quick question please...that throttle body has a 90mm opening right? You went smaller throttle body because you thought 90mm is overkill? Is it always okay to go smaller throttle body to manifold but not the other way around because then it will impact flow? Or is it better to always match up directly? Thanks
I'd think the smaller TB would affect flow if the opening on the IM is too large. I'd get what you feel is appropriate for your build now. Don't spend money twice .
Hey bro how you doing? So the throttle body will be completely disconnected from any water lines since you bypassed the water neck hose directly to the iadc valve? If you have a messenger is there anyway I can contact you so I can do this on my swap? I just want to make sure I'm doing this correctly?
+Pierre Espinel Yes that's what I did. All you need to do is run that line from the IACV to the front nipple like I did. It's very easy, you cannot miss where the coolant lines go.
Skunk 2's websitte says tthatt intake manifold can handle up up to 75 mm, and the ttb you have linked is 70 mm, which conttradicts what you said in the video, your tb being 66mm. Is skunk2 correct or are you more accuratte? Wanted to make sure for my b20 build thanks
You may want to do some reading on what TB size is good for your power setup, then buy which you think is best for your build. I'm sure all the TB's that skunk2 says fit, fit.
The IAT behind the fuel rail. Is there supposed to be a gasket, with a small spritz of brake clean, behind that is my vacuum leak ive been hunting. Just not sure if that sensor should be silicon Grey or if there is a gasket
Similar set up but still using the integra throttle body and it idles rough 1k to 2k the whole time, any ideas? Could it be because of the fast idle thermal valve delete? Will deleting the iacv help? Thanks in advance!
Getting ready for May 28th! Round 2 at ASR Super lap!
That would be awesome, and so much fun! You'll definitely have to keep in touch if those plans come to fruition!
that 2 1/1 inch intake is better then the hot air intake 3 inch.66mm tb is 2 1/2 inch and perfect location for cold air
rey0176 I'm going with the process of having more air volume in the chamber, similar to a large "whale penis" intake thar can be shoved into the TB/manifold.
Hey whats up, my friend is selling me his s2 pro series for b16 for 100$, do you think its a good deal and good to put on a stock b16? Thanks
Yes, buy it!
That moment you watch a 30 min video of the stuff you already know how to do only cause the content is awesome!! 👌👌 keep up the sweet tutorials Jon!!
Damn man, really appreciate that comment CODA! I also love how you comment on other people's comments helping them out and shooting them in the right direction!! Super cool of you, and much appreciated, that's exactly what I'm all about, helping one another out!
@@KeepinItReal890 that wasnt the point of my comment sir, i may know how to do alot of stuff but i watch cause its refreshing to see
@@KeepinItReal890 but yet your replying to a 4 year old comment...
He's done commenting on my channel. Lol
I was hoping I wasn’t the only one lol
Fascinating. My engine bay is BONE stock right now, but videos like this open up the door in my mind, to what is possible.
Can't wait to get my civic. I'm 14 right now but I'm getting it before I turn 15 and I already know everything I'm gonna buy for it
Awesome!
Did you get it ? I'm late but yeah?
Removing the old style map sensor and evap purge solenoid was so satisfying to watch, looks much more clean 🤤
Integra DIY I love it, this bay needed some love bad. it's so freaking dirty!
I've said it many times before. This is the best Honda Channel on youtube!
Thanks Jim
Great video. Answered a ton of questions I had regarding an install on my H series
I'll watch this when I have time, but from your other vids, this is going to be well made. youtube has been needing this diy
Appreciate it very much!!
awesome video again, even when I already know how to do everything it's just relaxing to me to watch you do it :D
btw don't forget to mention that you have to torque the intake manifold to engine bolts/nuts in the correct order for anyone trying to do this for themselves, otherwise they'll get huge vacuum leaks :p
falZ good tip, unfortunately I don't follow it with these Hondata gaskets. I only torqued them at 17 ft lbs, then double checked them.
Jon Widmer so you just did them in a random order ? I used a hondata gasket with an edelbrock performerX intake and I had to torque them in the correct order/pattern or else it had a big vacuum leak
falZ wow, that sucks. I always start from the center nut/bolt in between the 2nd and 3rd runner then work my way out til I reach the ends. I've had great results doing it this way. I even did the MPFI manifold on my d15 on the wagon with an or gasket and it's been great. What is the torque sequence?
Jon Widmer haha, that actually is the sequence, from inside to outside, thats why you never had the problem.
first time I did it was on a 1999 integra type R and there was such lilited space to reach everything so I torqued them on reachable basis :p had to redo it from the inside outwards :D
falZ aw perfect! lol. I probably knew it from doing so many over the years that it just became habit. I need to remind myself to include these small bits in the video sometimes because I forget not everyone has been playing with the cars like we have, some are virgins popping the automotive cherry!!
Cool video. Pretty informative. Would be cool to see some dyno results later down the road. Thanks for sharing.
Hi great video. I have a 97 crv upgrading to 70mm throttlebody. Problem where did you put the throttle motor from the bottom of the old throttle body. Also how to route the hoses to it. Really need assistance with this.
Bro. Your videos are super helpful!
🍻
Thanks man, love to hear it!
Great video man! very well explained step by step!
Thank you
Awesome Video. Thx for all the help not just this particular video but all your work. Just a question. Did you use your original throttle cable? I’m having issues with idle. My car won’t start unless I’m holding the throttle down and maybe after a minute the car will stay on but idle super low. My ef runs great once I’m on the road but any stop it revs low again. I tighten my cable and still starts low at a cold start but once it warms up now at stops it idles way high. I’m stumped. I have the same swap. Everything’s been replaced just never removed the tps which is still oem with the rivets.
Try adjusting the throttle plate stopper screw. Maybe even the idle adjustment screw. Both are on the TB.
Just re-watched this video because I have basically the same setup on my 90 hatch with a ZC swap. I also had a high idle that turned out to be a vacuum leak (I put the throttle body gasket in upside down). I was wondering if you ever got the idle down and where you ended up setting your fuel pressure and the air idle screw. Thanks again for the great videos.
All idle screws will be set differently. Adjust til you see fit. I left my pressure at 42.
I have a 97 Civic Coupe that I will be turboing after I pass inspection. I have a 70mm tb and much more but I plan to run a cat in street tune to reduce my emissions but swap it out when I go to the road course and race it....
👍
"Some sort of shock tower bar" tbats great haha
as always. great instructional installation videos.
Thanks Lauro!
Jon Widmer are you using the type 2 blue coolant? i have 3 jugs my buddy gave me, is it safe with green coolant?
Take a shot each time exhales “ehh” after every word - “intake manifold-ehh”🥃
Lol dick! I'm down though!
i see you rocking that honda coolant! i see you went with the tuner series tb 👍 heard some complaints with the pro series tb
mark0shark0 I read the same thing. This one is nice, no problems on the install. Honda coolant Ftw!
Love the Vids!
is the TB and INTAKE worth it for daily?
Did it have a noticeable torque on a stop. Thanks....
Thanks!
It did feel a little stronger. The b20 is so torquey already that it was hard to tell though but this car moves pretty darn well now!
I just wanted to check and ask, the injectors other manifold bits you were using on this setup were for a b18a1 or b1 right. I'm getting a b20 this weekend that comes with a skunk2 mani/tb and an aem fuel rail that has no injectors or anything on it so I'm starting from scratch finding parts for them lol
I really want to bolt that Skunk2 on my Gen1 CR-V B20z2 … have you tried any bolt-ons with your CR-V?
I haven't
Awesome vid!! So are you going to dyno it? curious as to how the power curves look. I want it on my B20 but kinda scared I'll lose too much low-end torque. Running the stock b20z mani now.
Roel Pastors man, it feels hella strong! My butt-dyno loves it! lol. The motor has a lot of torque to begin with, if I lost a little but gained top end, it's worth it. It has more than needed, some top end will help me out when I take this car to the track .
Roel Pastors I'd like to dyno it again, we'll see if I have some extra cash next month!
Yeah you'll probably gain more on top than lose down low. But I kinda made a challenge/sport out of it to create a motor with super great low-end :) When I finish the EJ B20 coupe I'm thinking of getting an EF as second car.If you do a dyno a vid would be so great. Really big fan of your vids, got to love '90's Honda's ! \m/
Nice work man! Any Improvments in terms of Hp or Engine output?
On this engine maybe a 5-10 hp difference. On a dohc-V you'll probably get even more.
HONDA MASTER!back at it again! cant wait to see some gangsta track footage of this track beast tearing it up again! Awesome vid love the knowledge you kick! appreciate the hard work keep it up!👍✌☝😎
Hey man, been watching your video for a while now. I have a 1990 Honda Civic Hatchback EF and I need to find upper control arms for the front that are adjustable because my alignment shop says I need them cause the current ones I have are non-adjustable. Can you help a bro out?
great vid man its hard to find people who love the non vtec motors.I got one question did you see any gains or feel anything differrent?
CarsNfish Thanks man, I love the b20. I've been playing with this one for about 15 months now and it's a great engine. My "butt dyno" tells me I gained some top end at the track. It definitely feels like it at WOT also. I will get it dyno'd again once I get the header I want plus a test pipe installed. With that setup that I had before the IM/TB install it made 136 whp at 3800 ft elevation.
Jon Widmer yea ok I'm thinking of installing it on my b18a1 it's a 93 da it was an auto when i got it but i converted it to 5 speed so the manifold has a bunch of junk
Makes sense, also have a nice bump in power too.
Great video!! How do I remove the intake manifold bracket on a 2000 Honda crv? I have everything off but I can't lift the head.
Thank you! There's a couple of bolts that hold it to the block and manifold. You should see them. I believe 4 total. 2 top, 2 bottom.
Great upload as usual!
Thanks Dale!
Love your videos . Now to each their own but after a bad sticking throttle blade and numerous other build flaws with Skunk 2 parts. I thoroughly hate the company and the parts. K tuned only for me. Just curious how the throttle body from skunk2 was fairing on your build?
I haven't had an issue at all. I recently put the same throttle body on my Si and that one has been fine too. I'll have to research the sticking throttle plate, I haven't read about it. I wonder if adjusting the throttle plate stop on the front would help the sticking issue?
Hey Jon, excellent video man really enjoyed it.
I have a USDM B20B motor im planning on running this on with the 66mm alpha TB.
My question is, can I run this on OBD2 ECU until I get my chipped ECU with hondata for tuning?
I know it wont run optimally without tune, but if I do it correctly will it run?
Thanks for the support !! Yes, probably not optimally like you said but it should run just fine. I'm still running obd0 90-91 integra parts on my jdm b20b and when I did the swap with the IM & TB I didn't have an issue at all. Still runs super hard!
For sure thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I am running OBD2 stock ECU until I can afford OBD1 Hondata S300 set up, either way i think my engine is gasping for more air and really needs it if my stock ecu can keep up with the fuel trim. My concern was on the stock high rise giraffe B20 intake there are two vacuum hoses in the front, one is the PCV and the other goes down to the fuel rail. But on the Skunk2, there is only one for the PCV. Where could i re route this other vaccum?
You can just plug it off. They sell small packs of plugs at auto parts stores. It won't be needed.
ok cool thanks bro
If this was swapped in an EK and tuned on an OBD1 Ecu of our choice- would it still get by emissions with a jumper harness etc? No CELs?
I live in a crazy state PA.! 🤨
Honda for life!
👍🙏
Hey Jon, thanks to your videos I was able to swap out the 1.5L DPFI in my 90 hatchback for a ZC 1.6L. I've been thinking about getting a Skunk2 set up for it, but I have a question. Don't you need to switch out the injectors to match the increased airflow?
Excellent!
No, the stock injectors flow more than enough for just an intake manifold.
ive been trying to get time to get a vid but im haveing trouble figureing out why my driver side low beam headlight wont work ive changed out the socket and bulbs no luck and fuae seems good
May be a bit of a noob question....but will the stock throttle body work with the Skunk2 manifold
Yes. 👍
Hey dude. That valve cover looks awesome. Was that DIY or shop done?
Thanks! It was DIY. I stripped it completely, then painted using the engine paint and it's the Grabber Green color. I can't remember the name of the paint but I bought it at AutoZone.
When putting on the shock tower bar you should Jack up the car from the front center and adjust it so it is pushing on both towers so when turning it pushes down on the other side and actually does something. Just a tip hope it helps.
Thanks! ☝️
Hey man awesome video. I see you didn’t film the pain of a process of actually removing and installing the bottom manifold bolts. Did you do them from the engine bay or up underneath the car? Just got my mani removed and got the bolts from up above but it was a real PITA. Just want to know how to make install as smooth as possible
I used a couple extensions and bend-joints and removed some from the top and 1-2 from the bottom. I can't remember which order as I just kept working on them until I got them out.
Garage Built Hondas appreciate the quick reply love the videos man keep it up
Thanks! 👍
Awesome job. Thanks for sharing. Now just peel that adhesive protector film off the Skunk2 lettering badge. They look really good with that film removed.
👍
Good video. I learned a lot!
Glad to hear, thanks for checking it out!
Sweet! Looks real nice
Great video man! I will use it to install mine thanks!
+Ricardo Victoria awesome buddy!!
Dude, almost 800,000 miles that's fucking insane. My gsr has 418,000 all stock and I thought that was a lot
My throttle body doesn’t have those holes for the little hoses …. I’m having trouble with p1507 p1509 how can I fix that? Do I need to chip my computer ?
Great video! How do you get to the bolts under the intake manifold? I want to do this swap on my ef sedan....
+LockTest a couple 12" extensions, and a swivel extension from underneath the car is how I removed mine.
ahh ok that makes sense. Thank you!
Hey bro how did you remove the lower bolts from the manifold
Extensions and u-joints
Great instructions for newbies like myself.😂😂😂
Love to hear, thanks for sharing!
Same. Here.
One of the best channels on youtube. Tried to do my front springs on my lude with your video, turns out the lude sh has a sway bar in the way of the 17mm bolt at he bottom fork. Will need a hoist :(
Matteo Coutant Really? It wasn't like how the sway bar was attached in my video? The radius rod does block the bolt at the bottom of the fork but you can remove it if the bolt was put in the wrong way.
Garage Built Hondas yeah, I’m pretty sure it was in the wrong direction, the bolt was too long to pull out of the fork. What’d you do exactly?
Garage Built Hondas yeah I didn’t have new cauter pins and the tool to separate the ball joint
I’m in a Honda sponsored program right now, I’m not sure if I’m going to become a tech or have this as a hobby. Might mix a bit of both and stay in the industry doing business
+Matteo Coutant Hopefully if it turns into a job you don't get sick of working on your own car. It happened to two of my really good friends, but sometimes it just works out that way.
Aye bro where you get that spark plug cover
EFparts.com
really good video!
Thanks!
Hi Jon,
Nice video!
I'm looking into DPFI to B20 swap. Quick two questions: 1, on 7:40, two water lines on the intake manifold, the larger one goes to thermostat housing, the smaller one goes to which part of the thermostat housing? 2, Why I don't see the FITV on the stock intake? It's deleted?
One loops from thermo housing to intake manifold. The other goes to your heater core.
Yes, the FITV is deleted on this intake manifold. I had the holes welded up and it was powder coated.
@@GarageBuiltHondas Where does the small water nipple on the stock intake manifold go to? Did you Tee it to the thermostat housing, or you plugged it? Can i plug it if I want to delete FITV?
As long as the hoses go somewhere, then it really doesn't matter. To can delete the FITV if you wish, not recommended if you live someplace cold though.
Is that an Obx type R racing strut? If it is we're twinning Jon! I have a matching one! Haha. Just got in my Hasport Cable to Hydro conversion setup. I was thinking about doing review video since I have it installed, would you be interested in me sending you some footage to perhaps use as a new diy video. If you know anyone with that has that obnoxious cable clutch issue like me, that conversion might be the answer! Haha.
Zane Nourse Yes it is! Its served its purpose so far, but going to swap one from my Si soon. Send me the footage, that be awesome!
Hey a couple questions, I'm running this intake manifold on my b18. I've watched your video probably 50 times. I'm stuck at where to run my hose from my charcoal canister. Do I run it to the top of the throttle body or to the far back of the manifold? Also I don't have a second coooant hose that comes from the thermal housing to the manifold. Is it okay to only hook up the bigger inlet and leave the smaller inlet line open?? Thanks for making videos!!
The very top smaller one goes to the manifold or TB, doesn't matter just needs to read vacuum. The larger one goes to the large nipple on the TB.
Great video man 👍keep up the good work
Great tutorial man!!!
Great content, I have one question, I have a EG that I swapped a b16 from a EM1. those this bolt on do any different on power?
Any upgrade to the engine where it can breathe better is good for it.
Thanks and thanks for the reply, only the channels where answer questions from their followers are worthy subscribing. @@GarageBuiltHondas
I try to get to all of them!! It's gotten harder as the channel has grown but I still think I get to most! 👍
Hey jon, I'm getting mixed reviews on calibrating the tps sensor. People say to warm up the car first, then test the TPS. Everytime I've tried to calibrate my tps I get .5 closed and 3.5 to 3.6 WOT. I checked the voltage on the middle wire, all was good. checked my ground wire, all is good. I've tried like 3 different tps sensors and they all do the same thing.
Braden skunk2 has a full video about that, they calibrate it on the bench
Its not with anything skunk2. I have an 89 integra, all oem. It's auto, ( im doing a swap to 5speed soon, but the tps not being calibrated correctly causes all sorts of shifting and rpm issues. I want it gone. I want to figure it out today if possiblen
So at WOT you can't get anywhere close to 4.5?
Nope. Not at all. Im going try again today. I will tear the wire housing so i can see if i get a better reading. I'm going to bet that's what my issue is.
I got up to 4.3. Car shifts way better now. At least I'm on the right track. Loosened and re positioned the throttle cables on both the pedal and auto trans. Messing with the auto trans shifter cable really helped. I messed with both of them and got a happy medium. Gonna mess with it some more to see if I can get 4.5 at WOT
Awesome bro!!! I need to upgrade my intake and throttle body lol
So what does the second plug actually go to the one that you just taped up? I’m curious. And I want to do this to my project. I’m just scared to make the next move. Thank you
The small valves next to the MAP.
amazing video Jon skunk2 nice choice
Thanks brotha!
your welcome Jon 🙏🙌
another good video. this is something i'm gearing up to too. Thanks!
Not a difficult install, the video seemed long after I finished it, but only took a few hours in the afternoon.
did you have to do any fine tuning to IVAC idle adjustment or Throttle body adjustments?
None so far. The idle air adjustment screw was all the way in so I couldn't use that to lower the idle. After finishing up all the vacuum lines (new line from booster to manifold, and from manifold to charcoal canister) it idle lower. After it reaches operating temp I was getting a 900-1000 idle. Lastly, I'm going to tinker with the IACV gasket as mine seemed flat so maybe that shall help. I haven't adjusted the cable or the stop on the throttle plate yet. It had got to be something simple, I have the same intake manifold on my Si with the B16 and it idles like a champ. We'll see how it goes!
Does your car have the evap system in it still? I have no idea where to run the lines from the evap canister. Help please!?
Ok for the big question any gains in power besides it looking nice?
Dat 1 Song Some in a pretty low HP setup such as mine, but it's needed if you want to continue to gain power with an opened up exhaust system/header combo and future tuning and/or cam upgrades. With what I added, maybe 4-9 HP hopefully!!
Change that junk2 spring on the throttlebody or you Will have problem with it :) 2/2 of my throttlebodys got revhang after some usage...on the alpha i changed to oem spring and on the Pro series i redrilled to put more tension on the spring and problems was solved
Thanks for that feedback, now I know what'll need to be done if I'm experiencing any issues. Luckily this TB has been perfect. I haven't had one issue at at thankfully!
What was the extra plug that you wrapped up? Is it needed for anything?
It's for the valve next to the old map sensor. It's not needed when using a throttle body mounted map sensor.
@@GarageBuiltHondas thank you. I'm about to put my Blox intake manifold on my B16a and this really helps.
👍
Why does Amazon tell me the throttle body isn’t a fit, I have b20b motor in my crv I’m trying to make some upgrades on. 4 years late to the comments but if you can help me out that would be great :D
Which throttle body on which manifold?
Did you just put caps on the two coolant nipples on the throttle body?
Question sir: where does your little hose from the water pipe on the back of the motor connect to? Mine goes from the water pipe to the iacv, I'm just wondering where yours goes with the way you ran your iacv water hose straight to the water neck under dizzy. Did you cap that water pipe line off?
MegaDankone The hose nipple under the dizzy went to the TB, then out that back of the TB to the IACV. I just eliminated it running through the TB, I didn't want it to heat up the TB any more, I'm trying to keep it as cool as possible.
Any future A/C videos jon?
Hey wat did u use to hold that spark plug cover in place. I made a plate havnt figured out how to mount it
It came with mounting hardware. I didn't make it, I purchased it off of eBay.
For the 2 throttle body ports that were bypassed, do I put vacuum caps on those? Can I also cap the port to the EVAP Canister since I don't have one?
On the intake manifold, it has a large and small coolant port. I know the larger one gets used, but do I also cap the one right next to it?
Yes.
Yes.
You can cap off whatever you're not needing. For instance, some people remove the heater core and thus you'll cap off the lines which lead to it. So any that are not needed in your setup, you may cap off.
@@GarageBuiltHondas Awesome, thanks for the quick reply. Your content is super helpful in showing me how to do my first engine swap into my EG.
Hey Jon, do you have a link to that 3" intake you bought, been looking to buy one for my hatch but not sure about the fitment with a b series. Thanks in advance
Effin Eduardo I just installed it today. I had to cut some of it off where it met the throttle body but it fits now. Was still kind of pain. Search (Crx 3" intake), that'll bring you to it. I paid like $35 shipped.
Jon Widmer hmm ok, I'll check it out. Thanks Jon
What injectors can I use with a stock b20b obd1 in my Integra
so whats up with the pro version where do the gas lines connect
????
You'll need a regulator that's not dependable on the rail. AEM makes one as well as other companies. jhpusa.com/products/aem-universal-adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulator
Did you notice any gains with the S2 pro manifold? I'm considering getting it for my B18B1
I think alone, probably not much maybe 3-5 hp. But with all the other bolt-ons it'll definitely help. My b20 is pretty darn strong as it sits with all the bolt ons.
@@GarageBuiltHondas An additional 3-5hp isn't bad at all. Skunk2 is having a Black Friday sale if you weren't aware. I'm going to go ahead an order that S2 manifold.
And imagine if you get it tuned? All those bolt ons will help. I did notice. I always stock up every year. Lol
@@GarageBuiltHondas For sure. Best time of the year to stock up on go fast parts!
mannnn those ac compressors are visciouss!!!! i hate that grinding sound
Lol
.hey boss....quick question please...that throttle body has a 90mm opening right? You went smaller throttle body because you thought 90mm is overkill? Is it always okay to go smaller throttle body to manifold but not the other way around because then it will impact flow? Or is it better to always match up directly? Thanks
My pro series manifold is 90mm so i figure to get a 90 mm throttle body for my 12:1 gsr build
I'd think the smaller TB would affect flow if the opening on the IM is too large. I'd get what you feel is appropriate for your build now. Don't spend money twice .
what cold air intake would be the best?
Hey bro how you doing? So the throttle body will be completely disconnected from any water lines since you bypassed the water neck hose directly to the iadc valve? If you have a messenger is there anyway I can contact you so I can do this on my swap? I just want to make sure I'm doing this correctly?
+Pierre Espinel Yes that's what I did. All you need to do is run that line from the IACV to the front nipple like I did. It's very easy, you cannot miss where the coolant lines go.
Garage Built Hondas Thanks man, big help.
Skunk 2's websitte says tthatt intake manifold can handle up up to 75 mm, and the ttb you have linked is 70 mm, which conttradicts what you said in the video, your tb being 66mm. Is skunk2 correct or are you more accuratte? Wanted to make sure for my b20 build thanks
You may want to do some reading on what TB size is good for your power setup, then buy which you think is best for your build. I'm sure all the TB's that skunk2 says fit, fit.
U dont run coolant lines too throttle body?
I didn't on this setup.
What is the advantages over the original manifold and throttle body?
More air flow resulting in more HP.
What fuel rail is that I like the placement of the fuel pressure gauge
It's an AEM
What type upper/lower radiator hoses are you using with your Skunk2 rad.? I just ordered a Skunk2 rad.
Mishimoto silicone setup for a b18 ls
@@GarageBuiltHondas Just seeing your reply now. Ended up ordering S2 silicone radiator hoses!
where do you get that small L tip tool you use to unsnap clip and remove hose?
Any store that sells tools usually has them.
Question. I basically have the same setup. Why does mine idle up and down as if there a vacuum leak
Maybe you have a vacuum leak? Lol. Did you install a new gasket when installing it?
What size is the custom hoses? 5/16?
The IAT behind the fuel rail. Is there supposed to be a gasket, with a small spritz of brake clean, behind that is my vacuum leak ive been hunting. Just not sure if that sensor should be silicon Grey or if there is a gasket
I believe the sensor had a small rubber gasket.
@@GarageBuiltHondas i appreciate it. The shop cranked it on though so I have to find a way to loosen her
Impact screwdriver is your best bet. I just googled it. There is a rubber washer
how much gain did you get from that intake manifold and TB upgrade?
Probably 5-10 hp on a stock setup like this.
Great work
Special your videos from u I can do much more to my efs
Awesome!!
Do you need to get a tune when you install a skunk2 intake and throttle body?
No
Wouldn't a front strut bar on a fwd car increase understeer?
Time for a PJDM 3pt bar!
Hey I’m trying to find the easiest way to put the evap canister on to pass CA Smog smh.. it should be below the oem intake manifold
I don't understand what you're asking.
Hey i wanted to ask what size bolts did you use for the intake manifold and where did you get them from or if u can send me a link thanks
I have tons of Honda hardware.. I just dug through my box that day.
What kinda number differences (if any) have you seen post-installation?
Maybe like a 7-10 HP increase on this kind of setup.
Hi I have a 2000 gsr and Im doing the same upgrade, what kind of tool can I use to get the bottom throttle body bolts?
I used a handful of extensions and u-joints. They never seem to let me down.
Is there a difference in performance with the new TB and intake manifold? I have B18A on my `92 Integra.
You may get like 5-10 HP without a tune. These parts definitely help if you do want to achieve more HP.
Similar set up but still using the integra throttle body and it idles rough 1k to 2k the whole time, any ideas? Could it be because of the fast idle thermal valve delete? Will deleting the iacv help? Thanks in advance!
You can see in this video where I run the coolant line which originally went to the FITV, but I run it straight to the nipple on the side of the head.