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BMW DISA valve test
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 มี.ค. 2015
- Testing the DISA valve on my 2004 BMW 325I M54. Plenty of other videos showed removal and basic vacuum test, here I show electrically testing it's movement without starting the car.
![BMW E46 DISA VALVE - The WHAT, the HOW, and the WHY it WORKS & FAILS [2021]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7oJmcCoLG7M/mqdefault.jpg)
![BMW E46 DISA VALVE - The WHAT, the HOW, and the WHY it WORKS & FAILS [2021]](/img/tr.png)
![[UNCUT] ชาวบ้านถาม “นายกอุ๊งอิ๊งค์” ประชาชนมีกิน มีใช้ กี่โมง? I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 16 ส.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tKZvOzLIJJc/mqdefault.jpg)
OH MY god I was ALWAYS wondering what makes that buzzing sound thanks!! :)
Your car has a hidden electrical plant that is generating power for the world to turn :)
@@_J.P._ 😱😱😱
For a lot of ppl, and also me, it does not close while putting contact on. However, you can try it another way. Look at the position the moving arm is while you put the contact, and start your car, after that go check back the position. If it moved, your disa is now close and i guess everything is fine, if it doesn't, then you got a problem.
I precise : keep the disa inside, don't take it out like him to do that test. Also, you can ask someone so watch the moving arm while you start the car, its easier.
Thanks for the tip. I had a similar idle problem and it turned out to be the Intake Tube Elbow Throttle Housing Air Mass Sensor Boot. The idle problem cleared up temporarily when I sprayed it with carb cleaner.
Actually it's the solenoid that's buzzing, there is no motor in the disa valve.
The reason why it still operates is risidual vacuüm.
The valve could have been much smaller than it actually is if it was only the mechanism for operating the valve. The rest of the valve body, the big rectangular box thing attached to the valve is actually a vacuüm reservoir that stores vacuüm from the intake manifold hence why the valve still works without the car running ;)
This comment should be pinned at the top, really. Testing your disa the way this video suggests, would work only if there is residual vacuum left inside the valve. If your disa cannot hold vacuum because the diaphragm is ripped, for example, this test will fail. I did my test after rebuilding my disa and at first panicked that it was broken because the flap didn't close. However, it didn't close because there was no residual vacuum in the valve's body.
Makes sense. I just rebuilt my DISA valve and it failed this test. I hope it‘s just the residual vacuum which is missing.
He didn't talk about it in the video, but if the pin that the flap rotates on is loose, replace your DISA or get a repair kit from German Auto Solutions. If that pin falls into the motor, it can ruin the engine.
Thanks. Helpful when the ultimate driving machine engineers stick a plastic valve and pin in the intake.
Nice video! Mine was holding vacuum, the motor was working but when I did that last test you showed the flap stayed in the open position
@Hristijan Nolevski yep! Sure did.
What was?
Disa valve not holding vacuum
@@EastCoast_883 so u need to replace disa?
This is with the canister charged with air. It won’t shut if there isn’t vacumm in the canister.
Wow dude this is exactly what I need! I was doing the "finger test" and undecided on whether or not to switch. I will try this out.
That's a very good and handy advice! Thank you!
Thanks for this. Mine is not holding vaccum and not working at all while key on 😂 thanks again
I did the hand test and it’s good. But when I did the key ignition it buzz but the flat doesn’t move so is mine disa bad or good? Everything hand test is good except the key ignition. The disa make a buzz sound while the key is on but the flat doesn’t move.
Was it good or bad?
Excellent video.
Interesting. Mine, and others on bimmerfest report no voltage doing it the way you are. Same engine but I believe yours is an e46 while mine and on the forum is an e39. May not apply voltage until started up (vs run position).
Yes i tested mine on x5 e53 2002 and tested new and old one and flap doesnt move like that om key position number 2 ...so maybe on e46 is different?
@Hristijan Nolevski actually, mine does that to, but as soon as i start the car, it closes
@Hristijan Nolevski i missread "turn the ignition". mine does close when it turn it on, but when i just turn contact on, it does not
@@luciano5137 ok now I got it. Mine does the same. The hand test is good but the key test make sound and buzz but the flat didn’t move. I guess according to you guys some car has to be turn on for the flat to turn. Got it! Mine is good then. It’s an older car 2002 BMW X5 3.0i
@@DragonTailDiabloBlkDT-ACE yes exactly
nice i had a similar issue
Would bad disa valve rattle, like plastic catching on a fan, that's the best way I can describe it
Very helpful. Thanks.
This does not apply in all cases / regions and is very misleading. In some cases the unit does not move on ignition and it also requires vacuum to operate so your unit might not be faulty just because it does not move on this test
Very informative kid keep it up
Good man. Helped me. Thx
My z4 starting to do this and my fuel usage shot up as well
How did you remove it without removing the cabin air filter assembly and the bike booster shroud?
Good job 👏
no motor in there . residual vacuum kept doing the job for you.
Good Video👍🏼
good explanation you should do more video
Good video. Thanks.
excellent
Graig, So what was causing the bad idle then?
The buzzing is coming from the icv
@craig did you ever figure out your rough idle issue? My M54 is tough idling and I'm about to check for Vacuum leaks.
Check the idle control valve. Make sure the valve can rotate freely and is not stuck in one position.
Checked mine today, when I turn the key my valve doesn’t closed?. Time for new valve?. It weird because it stays closed when doing the finger on hole test and no rattle?.I am getting a loss of power (Vanos has been replaced)
Do you have an result for the problem? Mine does the same thing.
Mine also did not close after turning on the ignition. Did you get yours replaced?
@@SvenIffert I cleaned it up as it was full off crap (bad ccv) bought the xr8 kit replaced ccv and it’s been running spot on ever since.
Ive been looking for ever on how to test for free but everyone always using a 5k$ machine and Im all set with that. Been ding to just plug the thing in and see if it would move. both of mine are stuck open.SUCKS!!!Anyways thanks for showing something worth a shit.
That buzzing is normal?
Yes it is.
bro thank you very much. I have that same engine. my valve d.i.s.a. when giving contact it does nothing, it stays open. I have lean mix codes p0171 and p0174. I have asked for a new disa, is that the problem? I love you
Hey i dont know if you have fixed your problem yet but after changing my spark plugs and coils i recieved the same codes... took it to a shop and got a vacuum test and came back i needed a new disa! they also said it was worth changing my intake boots (upper and lower) since im at 144k. That was today i can update you if it worked or not im about to check it out today. Shop was trying to charge me $1,300 lol its a simple DIY
@@semajthebest u have p0171 and p0174? I think it is ccv broken. Do u changed ccv?
@@NakaiSan. No they used smoke test or dye test i forget which one exactly to see where my air leak was coming from and my d.i.s.a needed to be restored or replaced. also your intake boots can cause the same lean code in bank 1 & 2 to be honest CCV probably the most expensive job and time consuming. the d.i.s.a and intake boots is a 1 1/2hr job they just tryed to get over on me today charging $850 for labor. I have p0171 and 174. its alot of rubber components that can be damaged that can cause that code after the MAF sensor. its worth taking it to a shop and paying $100 to be completely sure if you can.
@@semajthebest i know...but i have a lot of oil leaks too...fckin ccv..
So if it makes the buzz sound its bad?
Read the comments you'll find your answer
I just checked the DISA in my E39 m54 and discovered that the vacuum test works perfectly and there's 12V on plug but the flap doesn't move like yours after turn on ignition. I applied the 12V from accu directly to DISA and it works! Is there something wrong with power supply in my car?
same story with my E46 m54b25 DISA , the flap is not moving after switching on the ignition ,couldn't figure out if this is normal or not ? can't find information on this issue , I apologize for my English use a translator
Did you find the solution ? Got the same issue with my M52TU
This also happening to my m52, did you ever figure it out?
Got the same problem on my M54
@@all-time-tv9025 I have the same problem on my 325ci! Did bmw deactivate in some cars? I bought a pos market disa and it also doesn't work
what year is your car is it 325i
Yes, it was a 2004 325i. (I don't have the car anymore)
En général des la mise sous contact .
La vanne dois ce fermé ci elle ne réagi pas c'est qu'il y a un problème avec la vanne disa !!! .. 🤔
Je pense pas parceque beaucoup de personne sa ferme pas ni le mien
на че он помагает
Three new disas later, and none of them will close like this one. Aftermarket parts are such trash these days