Attention everyone. FYI, the balljoint on the new Mevotech driver's LCA I installed in July 2019 has now failed - started popping the other day, a mere 15K miles later :( Looks like I can get a replacement (lifetime limited warranty + Rockauto will refund me on the new LCA when I ship the failed one back).
Thank you soo much for the update. I was debating on using aftermarket parts 😩. Looks like I will try just replacing both bushing on the original and seeing if that has better longevity.
In post USSR countries - yes. In North America - no. Since the arm is aluminum, it’s a tricky process. And there is no OEM ball joint sold separately from the LCA.
My balljoint was in very good shape. I managed to replace my compliance bushing with oem and the front arm bushings with 51360 STX A07. The Febest Number is HAB-PLS. This brought it back to oem ride again. Easily pressed out and in. Thanks again for the update.
Please let us know how much it costs to chip it back to them - it's a big heavy piece, so if you have to send it across the border, it will probably be expensive.
Hi Bogdan, I just wanted to thank you for being the absolutely "go to" source for Acura repairs. I got an 07 MDX at a big discount because it needed shocks. After replacing shocks, struts, and a control arm, with the help of your vids, I was still getting every VSA and other warning lights under the sun. I took it in for an alignment only to find out that the knuckle had been bent sometime in the past and had to be replaced. This also blew out the new ball joint.... So, here I am, once again, poring over your excellent vids refreshing myself on the helpful steps and torque values, etc. Take care, be well and thanks again!
Thank you, Michael, for your kind words! This is exactly the point of my channel. I'm always happy when these videos help someone on their journey! Hopefully, if you ever need anything else, you can find it here also. All the best!
I found it easier to remove the 2 bolts holding the strut in place to get ball joint back into place. Especially since I was working on this by myself and on the floor. And I did find your video informative. Thank you.
Small tip - floor jack handle can be used to lower the control arm (put in big hole) and get bolt out from the knuckle. Same for putting it back. Also if you don’t have lift it is better to raise both front wheels of the ground and put on the stands. It will make the task of dealing with the bolt and knuckle much easier. Same tip is true if you need to replace struts/shocks.
Wow, I did this job in 2017 and remember struggling with putting the new control arm back in. The compliance bushing (that rectangular piece) was angled and I remember having to lever and tap it back in. I definitely don't remember it sliding in like that, but like you said, maybe they changed the angle since then.
@@AcuraAddicted Weird. It was the driver's side that I had problems with. It was so bad I decided not to do the passenger side since that was still OK, even though it would have been a good idea to do both at the same time.
When installing the new ball joint bolt you can use a wrench and cheater bar on the nut on the larger bushing to push the control arm down. So much easier this way!
14mm bushing bolt part number: 93402-10025-08 Doing this with NAPA replacement control arms. Will post an update after a few thousand miles. Thanks Bogdan!!
Would love to see you do a video on replacing CV Axles for the fronts and rears =) There are so many videos, but not very detailed, and they make changing them harder than they need to be. I appreciate how thorough you are.
Just FYI The main lower control arm bolt in the front is NOT 7/8s for the older generation (04) it's 19mm. Should make sense considering that this is an Asian manufacturer made car (Honda). You can see the slop in engagement with the breaker bar on..
Perfect instructional video. Thank you so much. Great steady video, clearly explained, and you follow up with your viewers. Many others should study your style. My MDX is 2001, slightly different , but essentially a similar install. Do you have a donation page ? I would contribute, I expect to save funds on this soon to happen project. Cheers, ...Dk.
Thanks, Sean! :) It's actually great, I've used it many times already for the MDX (very simple to change the wheels, for example) and for my friends' cars where the height allowed.
Awesome video as always. Thank you for making these videos! How do you like the aftermarket part? I haven't had good luck with aftermarket parts in the past so I am wondering if you are still happy with your choice in using in aftermarket part. Do you feel any adverse effects of the part?
Hi Eric. I’m not a fan of aftermarket parts either, but I couldn’t pass on a 1/3 of the OEM price here. Obviously, it’s not going to last as long as the OEM one, but so far so good, no issues whatsoever. It hasn’t even been a year yet, so I think it’s too early to tell for now.
The first mistake you did is you used a rubber mallet. You need to hit the ball joint socket with a steel hammer/mallet. This will provide enough shock to loosen the ball joint from the socket.
@@AcuraAddicted You are very talented at making videos and fixing car's. I love my 09 mdx just as much. By chance do you have an Instagram account? I don't have Facebook.
@@edde333 Thanks a lot, I appreciate your feedback! Too old for Instagram :) Also, TBH, my life is pretty boring for Instagram. Most of my free time goes into this gig, not much more to share.
@@AcuraAddicted: I have a 2007 Acura MDX with 130K miles. I'd love to have someone like you take a look at it vice taking it to a dealership. I'd gladly buy you a plane ticket to Vegas in exchange for some help making sure my MDX is in tip-top shape.
Also, look at the tire tread, that will show extra wear, but by then it may to too late. In my case, the clunk/rattle is my notice to fix it VERY soon or my new tires may have damaged wear. I have no uneven wear now, but preventative work will remove the problem.
Your codes should be on a card in your owner’s manual pouch or attached inside of the glovebox. If you don’t have that, you will need to remove the radio to get a serial number from the unit which you can then use to retrieve the radio code from mygarage.honda.com/s/radio-nav-code?brand=Honda
Hey Bogdan - great video! Removing the ball joint from the lower control arm was extremely difficult and I ended up removing the copper bushing from the knuckle! Any suggestions? I also pulled the boot off from the CV and about a cup of thick grease came out. I managed to put it back together, but I have not replaced the grease. Any suggestions? How did you fix it?
Wow, I could not imagine it would be more difficult for someone than for me. I don’t even know what a knuckle copper bushing is, where is it? Is it where the ball joint pin goes into? For the CV boot - I put the grease back in as much as I could and put the boot back on without removing the clamp. Hope you can do that too.
@@AcuraAddicted Hey - thanks for the quick reply! Good news is that I managed to get the copper bushing off the old ball joint by cutting it bold off from the old lower control arm and beating the bushing off with a hammer. The LHS LCA is back in. Even better news, The other ball joint came apart pretty easily with the pickle fork. I'm jujst watching your video again in hopes that |I can prevent the RHS CV joint from coming apart. Wish me luck!
Quick update - Job is done and the vehicle passed the safety inspection. Hopefully the LCA will last more than 15000 miles. On a separate note, looks like I will need to change the drive shafts or at least the universal joints... Thanks again for your videos - you are helping a lot of people! Spacibo mi drog!
At about 5:59 min mark, is there a space under the nut so that the ball joint separator tool can push down that threaded bolt? I’m looking at buying this tool and it appears you may have accidentally used it incorrectly.
Yes, there is space under the nut. Otherwise the use of the tool is pointless, as there is no room for the pin to move. When the nut is fully on, securing the pin, it's much lower on the thread. You can check at 4:52. The upper end of the nut is lower than the upper end of the pin there. At 5:59 the upper end of the nut is above the upper end of the pin. The separator tool didn't work. It wasn't big enough for this to succeed. It will also destroy your boot anyway, so using a pickle fork is way easier.
I replaced the LCA of my X this past weekend. One thing I noticed is the angle of the back support was different than the original LCA I removed from the X. The new LCA that came from Honda where at the same angle. Eyeballing the angle they seem to be closer to the 8 degrees indicated in the service manual. The original parts had more angle, probably around 15 degrees. How was your experience with these parts?
Hi Pedro. An experienced Acura mechanic told me that Acura updated the entire bracket with the compliance bushing at some point, so that might be why. In this video I've used an aftermarket LCA, so it is different anyway. No complaints so far.
@@AcuraAddicted hi, I just replaced my driver side lower control arm today. I followed your video and torque specs. Upon completion now the car pulls to the left. Any idea what needs to be check? The control arm is from Dorman. Can it be I need a wheel alignment to address this problem. Thanks
@@taras6292 Дороги тут ужасающие в основном, несмотря на устоявшийся стереотип. Вот тут можно ознакомиться с дорогами в Торонто: th-cam.com/video/zfoV7FrbH3Q/w-d-xo.html
Да, за 220 каксов вместо геморроя по поиску перепрессовки шаровой - лучший выбор. Понятное дело, что 10 лет, как родной, не отходит. Но втрое дешевле зато.
Attention everyone. FYI, the balljoint on the new Mevotech driver's LCA I installed in July 2019 has now failed - started popping the other day, a mere 15K miles later :( Looks like I can get a replacement (lifetime limited warranty + Rockauto will refund me on the new LCA when I ship the failed one back).
Thank you soo much for the update. I was debating on using aftermarket parts 😩. Looks like I will try just replacing both bushing on the original and seeing if that has better longevity.
Is the ball joint replaceable?
In post USSR countries - yes. In North America - no. Since the arm is aluminum, it’s a tricky process. And there is no OEM ball joint sold separately from the LCA.
My balljoint was in very good shape. I managed to replace my compliance bushing with oem and the front arm bushings with 51360 STX A07. The Febest Number is HAB-PLS. This brought it back to oem ride again. Easily pressed out and in. Thanks again for the update.
Please let us know how much it costs to chip it back to them - it's a big heavy piece, so if you have to send it across the border, it will probably be expensive.
It’s 2023 and I’m still watching your videos 😊
Hi Bogdan, I just wanted to thank you for being the absolutely "go to" source for Acura repairs. I got an 07 MDX at a big discount because it needed shocks. After replacing shocks, struts, and a control arm, with the help of your vids, I was still getting every VSA and other warning lights under the sun. I took it in for an alignment only to find out that the knuckle had been bent sometime in the past and had to be replaced. This also blew out the new ball joint.... So, here I am, once again, poring over your excellent vids refreshing myself on the helpful steps and torque values, etc. Take care, be well and thanks again!
Thank you, Michael, for your kind words! This is exactly the point of my channel. I'm always happy when these videos help someone on their journey! Hopefully, if you ever need anything else, you can find it here also. All the best!
Love that you list all the needed items before the job
Thanks!
I found it easier to remove the 2 bolts holding the strut in place to get ball joint back into place. Especially since I was working on this by myself and on the floor. And I did find your video informative. Thank you.
Good point, Neal, thanks for sharing!
Thank you sir for answering my ? I was hoping. Looking at a late Father's Day present. 😊
No problem. A jack and stands would be a great present depending on your budget.
This was so relaxing to watch. I just replaced my sway bar bushings up front but need to do the front control arms, axles and hubs. Great video!
Thank you!
Bogdan, thanks so much! I am starting this project tomorrow for my 08' MDX.
Small tip - floor jack handle can be used to lower the control arm (put in big hole) and get bolt out from the knuckle. Same for putting it back. Also if you don’t have lift it is better to raise both front wheels of the ground and put on the stands. It will make the task of dealing with the bolt and knuckle much easier. Same tip is true if you need to replace struts/shocks.
Thanks for the tip!
Good video 👍 thanks
Wow, I did this job in 2017 and remember struggling with putting the new control arm back in. The compliance bushing (that rectangular piece) was angled and I remember having to lever and tap it back in. I definitely don't remember it sliding in like that, but like you said, maybe they changed the angle since then.
For some reasone the driver’s side was easy, but I really struggled with the passenger side. Not sure why, but it was really difficult!
@@AcuraAddicted Weird. It was the driver's side that I had problems with. It was so bad I decided not to do the passenger side since that was still OK, even though it would have been a good idea to do both at the same time.
When installing the new ball joint bolt you can use a wrench and cheater bar on the nut on the larger bushing to push the control arm down. So much easier this way!
did not get it😅
Well explained I'm doing my 2012 Monday
14mm bushing bolt part number: 93402-10025-08
Doing this with NAPA replacement control arms. Will post an update after a few thousand miles. Thanks Bogdan!!
Awesome! Very accurately and thoroughly. Good job :)
Thank you!
Would love to see you do a video on replacing CV Axles for the fronts and rears =)
There are so many videos, but not very detailed, and they make changing them harder than they need to be. I appreciate how thorough you are.
Thanks! Mine are just fine for now, so I wouldn't expect it any time soon.
outstanding!!!!!!!!!!! Thank You I am going to do this on my 2008
You're welcome!
Just FYI The main lower control arm bolt in the front is NOT 7/8s for the older generation (04) it's 19mm. Should make sense considering that this is an Asian manufacturer made car (Honda). You can see the slop in engagement with the breaker bar on..
22 mm exactly for me
9 and 3 is tie rods, 12 and 6 is ball joint.
You're right! Mine was so bad, even 9 and 3 worked.
Perfect instructional video. Thank you so much. Great steady video, clearly explained, and you follow up with your viewers. Many others should study your style. My MDX is 2001, slightly different , but essentially a similar install. Do you have a donation page ? I would contribute, I expect to save funds on this soon to happen project. Cheers, ...Dk.
Thanks for your kind words! I have Patreon and Paypal in my profile. I hope all goes well with your project!
Use a long pry bar strapped to the bottom of the control arm to lower it down.
Good advice, thank you!
Great content btw. Keep them coming!
Thanks!
Super vidéo bien expliquer, merci.
Nice job
Acura Addicted never disappoints!!! Awesome video! How do you like the 3 in one jack?
Thanks, Sean! :) It's actually great, I've used it many times already for the MDX (very simple to change the wheels, for example) and for my friends' cars where the height allowed.
@sean T my Acura dealer wants to this for $1009 and that without taxes.
Awesome video as always. Thank you for making these videos! How do you like the aftermarket part? I haven't had good luck with aftermarket parts in the past so I am wondering if you are still happy with your choice in using in aftermarket part. Do you feel any adverse effects of the part?
Hi Eric. I’m not a fan of aftermarket parts either, but I couldn’t pass on a 1/3 of the OEM price here. Obviously, it’s not going to last as long as the OEM one, but so far so good, no issues whatsoever. It hasn’t even been a year yet, so I think it’s too early to tell for now.
Great job!
Thanks a lot, for your feedback!
awesome video....Thanks 👌🏾
Ivan is gonna love this channel. lmao
Mechanics I worked with only used two torque settings, half torqued and fully tighten. They never used a torque wrench.
:D
Figures! DIY as much as possible.
Where did you get those wonderful toys, seriously where would you purchase these wrenches and jackstands, exclusively for Acura MDX 2012?
They are not vehicle specific. It’s just regular tools that work for most cars. I’ve purchased them mostly from Canadian Tire and Amazon.
Good video
Thank you!
The first mistake you did is you used a rubber mallet. You need to hit the ball joint socket with a steel hammer/mallet. This will provide enough shock to loosen the ball joint from the socket.
Awesome video! 👍 👏 🍻
Thank you!
@@AcuraAddicted You are very talented at making videos and fixing car's. I love my 09 mdx just as much. By chance do you have an Instagram account? I don't have Facebook.
@@edde333 Thanks a lot, I appreciate your feedback! Too old for Instagram :) Also, TBH, my life is pretty boring for Instagram. Most of my free time goes into this gig, not much more to share.
Good job !
Спасибо, Сергей!
Besides the squeak when hitting bumps, what other symptoms would a person experience?
With enough play you feel clunk on bumps and when coming to a complete stop or even when accelerating.
@@AcuraAddicted: I have a 2007 Acura MDX with 130K miles. I'd love to have someone like you take a look at it vice taking it to a dealership. I'd gladly buy you a plane ticket to Vegas in exchange for some help making sure my MDX is in tip-top shape.
Also, look at the tire tread, that will show extra wear, but by then it may to too late. In my case, the clunk/rattle is my notice to fix it VERY soon or my new tires may have damaged wear. I have no uneven wear now, but preventative work will remove the problem.
I have a 2007 Acura we replace the battery ow my radio won’t because it’s asking for a code how can I get that
Your codes should be on a card in your owner’s manual pouch or attached inside of the glovebox. If you don’t have that, you will need to remove the radio to get a serial number from the unit which you can then use to retrieve the radio code from mygarage.honda.com/s/radio-nav-code?brand=Honda
Hey Bogdan - great video! Removing the ball joint from the lower control arm was extremely difficult and I ended up removing the copper bushing from the knuckle! Any suggestions? I also pulled the boot off from the CV and about a cup of thick grease came out. I managed to put it back together, but I have not replaced the grease. Any suggestions? How did you fix it?
Wow, I could not imagine it would be more difficult for someone than for me. I don’t even know what a knuckle copper bushing is, where is it? Is it where the ball joint pin goes into? For the CV boot - I put the grease back in as much as I could and put the boot back on without removing the clamp. Hope you can do that too.
@@AcuraAddicted Hey - thanks for the quick reply! Good news is that I managed to get the copper bushing off the old ball joint by cutting it bold off from the old lower control arm and beating the bushing off with a hammer. The LHS LCA is back in. Even better news, The other ball joint came apart pretty easily with the pickle fork. I'm jujst watching your video again in hopes that |I can prevent the RHS CV joint from coming apart. Wish me luck!
Quick update - Job is done and the vehicle passed the safety inspection. Hopefully the LCA will last more than 15000 miles. On a separate note, looks like I will need to change the drive shafts or at least the universal joints... Thanks again for your videos - you are helping a lot of people! Spacibo mi drog!
At about 5:59 min mark, is there a space under the nut so that the ball joint separator tool can push down that threaded bolt? I’m looking at buying this tool and it appears you may have accidentally used it incorrectly.
Yes, there is space under the nut. Otherwise the use of the tool is pointless, as there is no room for the pin to move. When the nut is fully on, securing the pin, it's much lower on the thread. You can check at 4:52. The upper end of the nut is lower than the upper end of the pin there. At 5:59 the upper end of the nut is above the upper end of the pin. The separator tool didn't work. It wasn't big enough for this to succeed. It will also destroy your boot anyway, so using a pickle fork is way easier.
What not to do lol❤❤
👍👍👍🤘😁
I replaced the LCA of my X this past weekend. One thing I noticed is the angle of the back support was different than the original LCA I removed from the X. The new LCA that came from Honda where at the same angle. Eyeballing the angle they seem to be closer to the 8 degrees indicated in the service manual. The original parts had more angle, probably around 15 degrees. How was your experience with these parts?
Hi Pedro. An experienced Acura mechanic told me that Acura updated the entire bracket with the compliance bushing at some point, so that might be why. In this video I've used an aftermarket LCA, so it is different anyway. No complaints so far.
@@AcuraAddicted Thank you for replying. Good video by the way.
Thanks
@@AcuraAddicted hi, I just replaced my driver side lower control arm today. I followed your video and torque specs. Upon completion now the car pulls to the left. Any idea what needs to be check? The control arm is from Dorman. Can it be I need a wheel alignment to address this problem. Thanks
Hello. Yes, as advised in the video at 18:21, you will need alignment.
What are symptoms of a bad control arm?
th-cam.com/video/so2ZCylAuf8/w-d-xo.html
How the part holding up so far?
Thanks.
So far so good. I hope it lasts at least 5 years, although it only needs 3 years to justify itself compared to the OEM cost.
Какая цена рычага в сборе?
165 американских долларов с доставкой и налогами (включено).
Это первая замена? Какой километраж?
Первая. 265 тысяч километров.
@@AcuraAddicted Дороги хорошие?
@@taras6292 Дороги тут ужасающие в основном, несмотря на устоявшийся стереотип. Вот тут можно ознакомиться с дорогами в Торонто: th-cam.com/video/zfoV7FrbH3Q/w-d-xo.html
@@AcuraAddicted Прям как в Украине.
I thought the ball joint was suppose to be press in
It is. But because it’s an aluminum control arm, it’s not as simple as with a steel one.
Вы всетаки поменяли рычаг...я тоже
Да, за 220 каксов вместо геморроя по поиску перепрессовки шаровой - лучший выбор. Понятное дело, что 10 лет, как родной, не отходит. Но втрое дешевле зато.
How did u get those calipers with the Acura logo
th-cam.com/video/7qajgFHjq-o/w-d-xo.html
Thanks
👍👏✌
Письмо получил?