Hi Mike. Love your videos. I use a sous vide instead of a double boiler. Super easy to get the perfect temperature and fill containers without creating a mess. Thanks again for your work!
Made my own paste using Daniel's recipe. It works great and really makes the finish on my turnings first rate and beautiful. Thanks for the recipe on the butter. Sometimes I do not need the abrasive paste. Great job!
Thanks for sharing this. I watched when you initially posted this and made the paste. A year later I’m still using the paste and really enjoy what it brings to my projects. Thanks!
I have been researching and shopping for abrasive pastes for the past few months. Last night it occurred to me that this might be something I could make myself. Then I stumbled on to your video. Very easy to follow and educational. I have subscribed and look forward to seeing the rest of them and any future videos. Thank you!
good info, i have been doing this for many years and always good to learn something new ,i use the small crock with a zip baggie ,have not had any problems with it leaves less mess. i enjoy your channel ,cheers
I recently started trying wet sanding and have gotten fairly good results. What started me to do this I noticed in Carl Jacobsen's, videos that he was dipping his sandpaper in to some sort of polishing compound and sanding thorough each grit. Right now I am using plain Minwax paste wax, trying to get the hang of things.
I find the paste wax out of a can to cost a bit more than the Howards Feed and Wax he is using now. I like softer then the paste wax but it will all work. This concoction takes some effort. If I was not using much I would just use the Howards.
I too use a crockpot - I did use the smallest mason jars I could find at Walmart and almost filled 4 of the jars. I use it on many kitchen items and on my two chopping boards. Wish I had this recipe when I was making as mine turned out a little hard - had to go back and reheat all and add more MO - needless step in the future thanks to your recipe; so, thanks Mike!
I've always mixed my own but never as a sanding paste. I'll try it as such . I've used it as a wax polish though. If I want a more durable finish I shave off a small amount of carnuba wax in the melting mixture. Great video. Thanks!!
Another great video Mike . I use a very similar blend myself all the time when I need to .Mike I have looked through your videos and I can't find the sanding wax video you mentioned would you be so kind to post the link to your video on sanding wax I would be very interested to watch it . Again thank you for you videos and I always learn something from each of your videos. God bless you and yours
Years ago I made some polish using Bees wax and Turpentine with a double boiler system. It worked great, polished up like glass.The downfall was it always had that turpentine smell.
Thanks for the info Mike. Seems like a good winter project when it is too cold in MN to work in the garage! Build up the supply for the more clement months:)
I've made some with Walnut Oil and Carnuba and Beeswax---I then tried to make my own abrasive paste--and the trick with Rottenstone or Pumice is you have to continue to stir it till it gets pretty thick to keep the Rottenstone or Pumice in suspension--I didn't do that first time around and all the abrasive settled to the bottoms of the containers I put the mix into--Live and learn eh!!
Thanks for the vid Michael.... good stuff as usual. I've been looking to do this for some time now .....just can't seem to get myself well enough to accomplish anything these days! I've been checking out different formulas over the past year, have not made any myself but as soon as I get feeling better I think....I know I will be making some. I appreciate your commments regarding what finish will work well with this concoction. I use a lot of lacquer and you seem to indicate that the two are compatible? Would it be compatible with shellace, how about captn eddies OB Shine juice? Sorry for so many questions but I've spend the last year or so tryinig to get educated on finishes, I used to sand my wood projects (usually cabinets) and then apply polyurathane or lacquer. Now I've been using lacquer on the outside of my bowls and "Salad Bowl Finish" by General Finishes on the inside XXXXXX (supposed to be FDA food safe) Do you have any thoughts on just using the beeswax and mineral oil as a sanding vehicle and as a final finish. I guess you would have to buff afterward ....but I was just wondering if it could be used as a final finish. If so, how would you recommend someone to maintaine the bowl for years to come...mineral oil? Finally, as I have been studying this mixture I ran across a few woodturners making your recipe as you do plus adding diatomaceous earth. The diatomaceous earth is basically the silica shells of one celled oranisms and is very fine....it is like a powder similar to flower or baking soda ....but it has grit since it is silica which is basically glass. The diatomaceous earth is like sanding at a 30,000 grit and is wiped off of the project as it turns. As a side note, diatomaceous earth can be fed to your pets to keep their digestive tracts clean of parasites. It can also be spread in the garaden for various pets. Since these are basically microscopic shards of glass ....the DE rips apart the digestive tract of invertabrate one and multi celled organisms. I give the stuff to my dogs (and chickesn and turkeys) to eliminate worms and other digestive tract parasites. I can say it does work! I haven't tried it in any type of finishing product but I am anxious to give it a whirl, I wondered if you have any experience using diatomaceous earth in any of your mixtures?
Good video Mike. I’ve made a few different versions of this, one using walnut oil instead of mineral oil which works nicely although it costs a little more to make. It’s fine for a friction polish finish but I haven’t tried any other types of finish over it, I’ll experiment a bit on some scraps. Another variation which is a finish and not a sanding butter uses microcrystalline and carnauba waxes for a beautiful food safe finish that maintains the natural look of the wood, which I prefer over a gloss finish. As always, thanks for taking the time to make all your great vids, you’ve really helped me progress as a woodturner. - Jay
Thanks for sharing. Any problem with the walnut oil hardening the wax solution? I have some Mahoney's Walnut oil and wax finish that works well for utility items but I notice the walnut oil seems to limit the shelf life.
Hmm, it would seem that some turners don't understand that certain oils are "drying oils" and do not remain liquid indefinitely. Walnut, Tung or China, Danish and boiled Linseed being the most common. Maybe Mike could prepare a video on oils? Stay safe
Hi, Mike. I’ve always heard that varnish should not be put on a waxed surface, which is why I don’t use this sanding butter or Yorkshire grit, etc. do you know anything about that.
I am still experimenting with this. But I think the key is trying to get off any excess wax at the end. Here is a reference to finish over MO which may apply. www.woodcentral.com/russ/finish13.shtml I am not having any problems with Minwax AO but unlike most antique oils or Danish oil finishes which typically contain about 1/3 varnish, I think it is mostly oil and mineral spirits. I am looking for feedback from anyone with first hand experience.
Thanks for sharing that. I would think mineral spirits would also remove any traces of wax and MO. My limited experience with Minwax Antiqe Oil has been successful without a wipe down of anything. I just make sure I am not picking up any more residue on a clean piece of paper towel.
For all the videos you two have done I’m happy to help out, even if just a little bit. I saw your video on finishes and like the idea of Antique Oil not having any varnishes. I recently ran out of Danish oil but I’m having a hard time finding AO, would it happen to be available through your Amazon page?
I am not having any problems with using Antique Oil, my main finish. I never had a problem with using a shellac based friction polish over Ubeaut EEE which is in a wax base. You may want to test and continue reading viewer comments since I asked for feedback on this.
Useful info. I wonder if one didn't want to use a petroleum product like mineral oil could you use Lanolin instead? ( I suppose PGA could be used as a solvent). An interesting thought brought up by this video, bee;s wax and lanolin, I just don't know.
You could use one of the natural drying oils, like walnut oil or tung oil. You just want to be sure that whatever finish you want to use is compatible with the 'carrier' in your sanding butter. I don't know enough about Lanolin to know if finishes are compatible with it or not. As Mike points out, most finishes are compatible with mineral oil, which is what makes it good for this application.
Hi Mike I enjoy your videos very much, I respect your attitude of passing experience to those who wants to learn, Mike I do use lacquer thinner base sanding sealer, from my memory ingredients where, Thinner Polystyrene and some talcum powder, I do not know if this ingredients are correct? and percentage quantities? can you help? Kind regards from Australia Jack Marashlian
Sounds like you are making your version of Mylands lacquer cellulose sanding sealer that has agents to make it easier to sand? Never made any. Just bought it off the shelf.
Hello Mike.... I would pay the $20-25 at Walmart or somewhere for a new crockpot. A friend had their house burn down after using a crockpot that either someone gave them or they got it at a garage sale. They had only used it four or five times. The fire department traced the fire back to the crockpot. Anything can catch fire but for the money you save I would prefer to have some peace of mind and shell out a few bucks. I’ll definitely be trying out the recipe though. Thanks Mike. Ron
Hi Mike! Always enjoy your videos and have learned a great deal from them. I make my own sanding butter using mineral oil, bees wax and FFFF pumice ( get that on ebay). I see in your Club meeting table that you have some diatomaceous earth. I've used that for around and inside my horses for fly control but not for sanding. Is it added to the mixture by itself of in combination with pumice or some other abrasive? Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Take care, Dave
If you want mineral oil it's also called baby oil which is much more available. Beeswax and mineral oil mixed into a butter is food safe so I use it on all my bowls.
Some time ago you did a video on a sanding system witch a wood turner had developed. He was selling a kit including sanding disk and mandrels. I would appreciate his contact information if you could thank you
Between you and Worth the Effort y'all are making by tired old brain swell with info.(My turnings are getting better from you ,You Tubers willing to share your knowledge. (Thanks) ). I just started turning about two years ago, most of what I know is from trial and error [mostly error] and what I pick up from reading books and watching You Tube . Once again great info.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Thanks for the response, love your videos. Water marks. I've been finishing with mineral oil only and wanted to step up to a harder brighter finish. I think the problem is i have oiled (only) first then beeswax compound (50/50) over. This results in spotting or finish damage from water just splashed on it. I only tried hand rubbing a piece of scrap with beeswax compound on wood first and didn't get the negative results. Is it the oil first causing the issue?
@@minirto Mineral oil and wax is never going to be a hard durable finish but one that will need regulae replenishing. Sounds like you never got a good even coating of wax and mineral oil. That probably caused the spotting. My formula was 1 part wax to 4 parts oil applied on the lathe spinning. I use Minwax Antique Oil for most things. It gets more shiney with each coat. But any finish on a food bowl is going to get dull
Don't bother converting for volume of the oil multiplying by density. Just weigh the oil on the scale as you measured the wax. That is easier and more accurate.
I agree it is the easiest and most accurate. the other way works well for folks who may not have scales and bought a 2oz bar. It happens so I like to give alternatives where I can as one size does not fit all.
hey mike,,, i spray laqre over board butter all the time and have for years,, with never any problem or reaction
Great info! Thanks for sharing. That is what I was looking for.
Hi Mike. Love your videos. I use a sous vide instead of a double boiler. Super easy to get the perfect temperature and fill containers without creating a mess. Thanks again for your work!
Great tip!
Made my own paste using Daniel's recipe. It works great and really makes the finish on my turnings first rate and beautiful. Thanks for the recipe on the butter. Sometimes I do not need the abrasive paste. Great job!
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing this. I watched when you initially posted this and made the paste. A year later I’m still using the paste and really enjoy what it brings to my projects. Thanks!
Glad it is working for you!
I have been researching and shopping for abrasive pastes for the past few months. Last night it occurred to me that this might be something I could make myself. Then I stumbled on to your video. Very easy to follow and educational. I have subscribed and look forward to seeing the rest of them and any future videos. Thank you!
Thanks. I hope you find more of my videos helpful.
good info, i have been doing this for many years and always good to learn something new ,i use the small crock with a zip baggie ,have not had any problems with it leaves less mess. i enjoy your channel ,cheers
Thanks for the feedback, Tom.
Mike, I love the stuff. Cuts down dust, smells great, softens my hands, and finishes - all at once.
Alan
Sorry I did not get started with this sooner. Thanks for commenting, Alan.
A very informative and very well explained video Mike
Cheers
Mike
I appreciate that Mike. It will be a sidebar in an article on wet sanding due to be published in the Feb issue of the American Woodturner.
I recently started trying wet sanding and have gotten fairly good results. What started me to do this I noticed in Carl Jacobsen's, videos that he was dipping his sandpaper in to some sort of polishing compound and sanding thorough each grit. Right now I am using plain Minwax paste wax, trying to get the hang of things.
I find the paste wax out of a can to cost a bit more than the Howards Feed and Wax he is using now. I like softer then the paste wax but it will all work. This concoction takes some effort. If I was not using much I would just use the Howards.
I too use a crockpot - I did use the smallest mason jars I could find at Walmart and almost filled 4 of the jars. I use it on many kitchen items and on my two chopping boards. Wish I had this recipe when I was making as mine turned out a little hard - had to go back and reheat all and add more MO - needless step in the future thanks to your recipe; so, thanks Mike!
Mike, I utilize a crock pot, but I also use the food liners for the crock pot, that way I do not have a mess to clean up.
I never thought of that but since my crock pot is dedicated for this, I just wipe it down with a paper towl. I would not want to eat out of it!
I've always mixed my own but never as a sanding paste. I'll try it as such . I've used it as a wax polish though. If I want a more durable finish I shave off a small amount of carnuba wax in the melting mixture. Great video. Thanks!!
Thanks for sharing, Brian.
Always like your videos.
Another great video Mike . I use a very similar blend myself all the time when I need to .Mike I have looked through your videos and I can't find the sanding wax video you mentioned would you be so kind to post the link to your video on sanding wax I would be very interested to watch it . Again thank you for you videos and I always learn something from each of your videos.
God bless you and yours
It was last week. There was a link at the end of the video.
Years ago I made some polish using Bees wax and Turpentine with a double boiler system. It worked great, polished up like glass.The downfall was it always had that turpentine smell.
Thanks Mike, good video.
Thanks you.
Another great idea, Mike, thanks!
Phil
Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for the info Mike. Seems like a good winter project when it is too cold in MN to work in the garage! Build up the supply for the more clement months:)
Thanks for the reminder to count my blessings! A year round temperature controlled basement shop.
Thanks for sharing Mike👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for your support, Alan.
Could this blend be used as a finish itself? Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
No, wax is not a finish unless it is a pure utilitarian piece.
I've made some with Walnut Oil and Carnuba and Beeswax---I then tried to make my own abrasive paste--and the trick with Rottenstone or Pumice is you have to continue to stir it till it gets pretty thick to keep the Rottenstone or Pumice in suspension--I didn't do that first time around and all the abrasive settled to the bottoms of the containers I put the mix into--Live and learn eh!!
Good point. One I emphasize in the video this Friday on making abrasive paste.
Thanks for the vid Michael.... good stuff as usual. I've been looking to do this for some time now .....just can't seem to get myself well enough to accomplish anything these days!
I've been checking out different formulas over the past year, have not made any myself but as soon as I get feeling better I think....I know I will be making some.
I appreciate your commments regarding what finish will work well with this concoction. I use a lot of lacquer and you seem to indicate that the two are compatible?
Would it be compatible with shellace, how about captn eddies OB Shine juice?
Sorry for so many questions but I've spend the last year or so tryinig to get educated on finishes, I used to sand my wood projects (usually cabinets) and then apply polyurathane or lacquer. Now I've been using lacquer on the outside of my bowls and "Salad Bowl Finish" by General Finishes on the inside XXXXXX (supposed to be FDA food safe)
Do you have any thoughts on just using the beeswax and mineral oil as a sanding vehicle and as a final finish. I guess you would have to buff afterward ....but I was just wondering if it could be used as a final finish. If so, how would you recommend someone to maintaine the bowl for years to come...mineral oil?
Finally, as I have been studying this mixture I ran across a few woodturners making your recipe as you do plus adding diatomaceous earth. The diatomaceous earth is basically the silica shells of one celled oranisms and is very fine....it is like a powder similar to flower or baking soda ....but it has grit since it is silica which is basically glass.
The diatomaceous earth is like sanding at a 30,000 grit and is wiped off of the project as it turns.
As a side note, diatomaceous earth can be fed to your pets to keep their digestive tracts clean of parasites. It can also be spread in the garaden for various pets. Since these are basically microscopic shards of glass ....the DE rips apart the digestive tract of invertabrate one and multi celled organisms.
I give the stuff to my dogs (and chickesn and turkeys) to eliminate worms and other digestive tract parasites. I can say it does work!
I haven't tried it in any type of finishing product but I am anxious to give it a whirl, I wondered if you have any experience using diatomaceous earth in any of your mixtures?
I use a very similar concoction as a food base finish on some of my woodworking projects.
Thanks for sharing.
Good video Mike. I’ve made a few different versions of this, one using walnut oil instead of mineral oil which works nicely although it costs a little more to make. It’s fine for a friction polish finish but I haven’t tried any other types of finish over it, I’ll experiment a bit on some scraps. Another variation which is a finish and not a sanding butter uses microcrystalline and carnauba waxes for a beautiful food safe finish that maintains the natural look of the wood, which I prefer over a gloss finish. As always, thanks for taking the time to make all your great vids, you’ve really helped me progress as a woodturner. - Jay
Thanks for sharing. Any problem with the walnut oil hardening the wax solution? I have some Mahoney's Walnut oil and wax finish that works well for utility items but I notice the walnut oil seems to limit the shelf life.
I haven’t had a problem but I only make a couple ounces at a time. I thought the walnut oil might limit the shelf life so thanks for confirming that.
Hmm, it would seem that some turners don't understand that certain oils are "drying oils" and do not remain liquid indefinitely. Walnut, Tung or China, Danish and boiled Linseed being the most common. Maybe Mike could prepare a video on oils? Stay safe
Good idea, Paul. The video I did on finishing is three eyars old but seemed get a lot of views so one focusing on different oils might be of interest.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning I agree Mike, and would love to see that.
Hi, Mike. I’ve always heard that varnish should not be put on a waxed surface, which is why I don’t use this sanding butter or Yorkshire grit, etc. do you know anything about that.
I am still experimenting with this. But I think the key is trying to get off any excess wax at the end. Here is a reference to finish over MO which may apply. www.woodcentral.com/russ/finish13.shtml I am not having any problems with Minwax AO but unlike most antique oils or Danish oil finishes which typically contain about 1/3 varnish, I think it is mostly oil and mineral spirits. I am looking for feedback from anyone with first hand experience.
I’ve used Danish oil and BLO over it without any problems, but only after a thorough wipedown with DNA.
Thanks for sharing that. I would think mineral spirits would also remove any traces of wax and MO. My limited experience with Minwax Antiqe Oil has been successful without a wipe down of anything. I just make sure I am not picking up any more residue on a clean piece of paper towel.
For all the videos you two have done I’m happy to help out, even if just a little bit. I saw your video on finishes and like the idea of Antique Oil not having any varnishes. I recently ran out of Danish oil but I’m having a hard time finding AO, would it happen to be available through your Amazon page?
Hi, Cigar. Amazon carries Minwax Antique Oil in pints and quarts. Of course, unless you subscribe to Anazon Primre, you’ll pay $7 for shipping.
You address putting finishes over mineral oil, but what about the bees wax?
I am not having any problems with using Antique Oil, my main finish. I never had a problem with using a shellac based friction polish over Ubeaut EEE which is in a wax base. You may want to test and continue reading viewer comments since I asked for feedback on this.
Useful info. I wonder if one didn't want to use a petroleum product like mineral oil could you use Lanolin instead? ( I suppose PGA could be used as a solvent). An interesting thought brought up by this video, bee;s wax and lanolin, I just don't know.
Lanolin would certainly cost more. Try it and let us know.
You could use one of the natural drying oils, like walnut oil or tung oil. You just want to be sure that whatever finish you want to use is compatible with the 'carrier' in your sanding butter. I don't know enough about Lanolin to know if finishes are compatible with it or not. As Mike points out, most finishes are compatible with mineral oil, which is what makes it good for this application.
Hi Mike I enjoy your videos very much, I respect your attitude of passing experience to those who wants to learn, Mike I do use lacquer thinner base sanding sealer, from my memory ingredients where, Thinner Polystyrene and some talcum powder, I do not know if this ingredients are correct? and percentage quantities? can you help? Kind regards from Australia Jack Marashlian
Sounds like you are making your version of Mylands lacquer cellulose sanding sealer that has agents to make it easier to sand? Never made any. Just bought it off the shelf.
Thanks Mike! 😁 🇦🇺
Any time!
Good info...thanks for sharing!
I appreciate that Carol.
Hello Mike.... I would pay the $20-25 at Walmart or somewhere for a new crockpot. A friend had their house burn down after using a crockpot that either someone gave them or they got it at a garage sale. They had only used it four or five times. The fire department traced the fire back to the crockpot. Anything can catch fire but for the money you save I would prefer to have some peace of mind and shell out a few bucks.
I’ll definitely be trying out the recipe though. Thanks Mike.
Ron
I guess you can't be too careful. But as I suggest in the video, you need to be there watching it.
Mike Peace Woodturning Good point. Thanks Mike.
Hi Mike! Always enjoy your videos and have learned a great deal from them. I make my own sanding butter using mineral oil, bees wax and FFFF pumice ( get that on ebay). I see in your Club meeting table that you have some diatomaceous earth. I've used that for around and inside my horses for fly control but not for sanding. Is it added to the mixture by itself of in combination with pumice or some other abrasive? Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Take care, Dave
I was lucky to see Russ Fairfield demo once. Sam
I bet that was a treat. Love his articles on Woodcentral.com
If you want mineral oil it's also called baby oil which is much more available. Beeswax and mineral oil mixed into a butter is food safe so I use it on all my bowls.
Baby oil usually costs a tad more but adds a nice smell.
Thanks for sharing
I made by "spoon butter" using a 1 oz. bar or beeswax and 5 fl. oz. of mineral oil. I found this recipe on a woodworking Internet site.
yep, that is about the same mix I am using for a soft wax.
Some time ago you did a video on a sanding system witch a wood turner had developed. He was selling a kit including sanding disk and mandrels. I would appreciate his contact information if you could thank you
It is in the video description th-cam.com/video/U-WPKihAefo/w-d-xo.html
Good information - thanks!! However, I'm ounce-challenged. Thank goodness for the metric system :)
Thanks for your feedback.
Between you and Worth the Effort y'all are making by tired old brain swell with info.(My turnings are getting better from you ,You Tubers willing to share your knowledge. (Thanks) ). I just started turning about two years ago, most of what I know is from trial and error [mostly error] and what I pick up from reading books and watching You Tube . Once again great info.
I am in good company then. I love Worth the Effort's channel. I appreciate the feedback.
Have you ever had issues with water marks using this in fruit or salad bowls? I'm having a little issue im trying to nail down.
No, what kind of an issue are you having?
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Thanks for the response, love your videos. Water marks. I've been finishing with mineral oil only and wanted to step up to a harder brighter finish. I think the problem is i have oiled (only) first then beeswax compound (50/50) over. This results in spotting or finish damage from water just splashed on it. I only tried hand rubbing a piece of scrap with beeswax compound on wood first and didn't get the negative results. Is it the oil first causing the issue?
@@minirto Mineral oil and wax is never going to be a hard durable finish but one that will need regulae replenishing. Sounds like you never got a good even coating of wax and mineral oil. That probably caused the spotting. My formula was 1 part wax to 4 parts oil applied on the lathe spinning. I use Minwax Antique Oil for most things. It gets more shiney with each coat. But any finish on a food bowl is going to get dull
You promised a video on “sanding butter” with the secret ingredient. O cannot find it in the library of your great videos
This video is on sanding butter. This Fri I will release my video on making abrasive paste which is sanding butter with the secret ingredient added.
Thanks. Got my timing confused. Will look forward to it.
If people are concerned about with the wax interfering with the final finish why can't you wet sand with just mineral oil?
Sanding with just MO is certainly an option. No perfect answer to wet sanding. Lots of choices.
"It has a secret ingredient...", just after showing a huge bag of diatomaceous earth :)
I just can't keep a secret, can I?
Great to know.
Hot liquid beeswax directly into plastic containers. Yeesh
Beeswax melts at 147 Degrees F. It is not a problem at all.
Amish are a great source beeswax, for a buck or so they will pack you off with big blocks of the stuff.
Too bad we don't have any Amish around Atlanta, LOL.
Don't bother converting for volume of the oil multiplying by density. Just weigh the oil on the scale as you measured the wax. That is easier and more accurate.
I agree it is the easiest and most accurate. the other way works well for folks who may not have scales and bought a 2oz bar. It happens so I like to give alternatives where I can as one size does not fit all.
In one of Daniel Valarino videos he shows putting rotten wood in his sanding butter to make it slightly abrasive.
I missed that in his videos.