I'm glad you found the video informative and that you enjoyed it enough to subscribe to the channel. Thank you for the positive feedback, and I hope you continue to find the content valuable and enjoyable. I have a collection of videos based on my Woodturning, Life, and Q&A called the Weekly Wrap. I hope to see you over there in the comments asking some questions. Cheers, mate, and thank you for the support. Cheers, Kerry C
Thank you for sharing this with us. You’re doing fantastic work. I’m still a fairly new turner. Learning something new every day. And I wish we had wood like that here in the US. Have a great day.
thank you so much Keith. This is an excellent way of sealing wooden bowls and platters creating a durable watertight finish. Really hope it helps mate. Cheers
Had been familiar with wet sanding gun stocks to fill in grain, but had not heard of doing this with wood turning until now. Late to the party as I've just discovered this channel and I'm still a noob on turning with right at 3 years at it.
Thanks for leaving a comment mate. I find it very effective for larger pieces as well. Creates a nice even coverage over the surface and is water tight after a drying. Have a great day mate. Kezza
Kerry, A fine video on wet sanding with oil. I have not seen such a thorough discussion & visual before. I appreciate you putting this together. Gonna give it a try, with product available here in the States.
Thanks so much, Bob. I really appreciate the feedback and the comment. It's such a great finish. I wish you all the best mate. Let me know how you go. Cheers, Kezza
I've been waiting my whole life (43 working years as a certified, state-certified male nurse, with what feels like 1 million training courses in Germany) for an Australian colleague to explain to me for minutes how to hold a rag! Thanks, that was still missing in my repertoire. Okay, joking aside. Danish Oil is also one of my favorite finishes. For the last job, I add a dash of walnut oil (walnut oil also hardens) and give the lathe a 1000 grit at a rpm of 2000 to 3000, if the turned object allows it. Otherwise: nice video and well explained, thanks for that. I'll take a look at what else you're doing. Objects with Banksia cones would interest me, because you are sitting at the source. Greetings from northern Germany, stay healthy and take care of yourself, Schorschi.
Hey there Schorschi, It's awesome to hear that you enjoyed the video and found the tips on finishing your woodturning projects helpful. Adding a dash of walnut oil sounds like a great idea, I'll have to give it a go. Banksia cones are definitely a cool material to work with, I've seen some stunning pieces with them. Thanks for saying hi from Northern Germany, and I hope you have a great day! PS Make sure you hold the rag correctly 😂 Pps join the team on the Weekly Wrap! and ask questions for the Q&A. I will look forward to hearing from you. Próst mate, Kez
Thank you so much, mate. Please send me any request for a video and I will do my best to film it for ya. Im currently working on a video for a jewellery box👌 Cheers mate
@@KerryCorney I'll take you up on that. When you do the jewellery box, if you can illustrate how you 'sqaure out' the bottom (flat from middle to corner), that would be great, as I am yet to feel fully at ease and I am never completely satisfied with the result. And, for the future, anything on control of the skew for a finer finish on outside curves would be great, too. Thanks Kerry - good luck.
Hey Ken, I would recommend sanding to either 120 or 180 grit and then applying a polyurethane finish, especially if you plan to use something like gloss. After the third coat with Danish oil, I find it will build up a nice semi-gloss sheen. Does that help? I havent used a lacquer on top and I don't think it would adhere, it might laminate off. Cheers Ken
Cheers mate. Experiment with 320 and 400 grits. You can start at lower grits but it might leave track marks. I love we sanding because of no dudt👌 let me know how you go
Always anxious to get to my lathe after watching your vids. Love sanding with Danish oil. Not only dustless but the slurry fills grain, particularly on open grain materials.
Glad to hear that you found the video helpful! And I agree, the wood is absolutely beautiful. Australia is truly a one-of-a-kind, special place. Thanks for sharing your thoughts! Cheers mate, Kez
That looks like a nicely finished bowl but I have never been a fan of using compressed air to blow dust into the air to clean out a bowl in the same room that I end up applying the finish. Even though I have my extractors on at all time I still find dust settles on surfaces. I prefer to vacuum the dust away and then finish of with a tack rag.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts on the Video mate. It's great to hear about different techniques and preferences when it comes to dust collect. Your approach to dust removal is very thorough, and I can definitely see the benefits of using a vacuum and tack rag instead of compressed air. Thank you for sharing your tip, Ronald. Cheers, Kerry C.
Beautiful. Love that you finish with the end user in mind. Makes it where they can easily fix little dings. I like making the artistic yet functional pieces myself. Keep up the good work
Thanks, Rod. For sure, if someone across the globe scratched there bowl/ platter; they can fix it, and I think that empowers them as well. They can be part of the story of their piece. Cheers mate
Yeah, I've got Dr. Woodshop's Walnut oil and it works a treat. I haven't tried it with all the grits yet, but thanks for letting me know it works like a charm!. Cheers mate, Kez
Certainly does, depending on the oil you use. Usually, you have to wait a couple of days for the oil to harden and what's called off-gas. Then it's safe. Thanks for watching Kelkilkat🤝 Cheers, Kez
Hey mate 🤣😂I use cut and polish, yer that's right, the cut and polish used to polish the Kingswood from supercheap 😎😂🤣😆.Ernie smith from brisbane Australia
Hey mate I have just stumbled across your channel. Great to see Australians putting up videos I am in Queensland as well and have subscribed instantly great video on the wet sanding. Look forward to more videos. I will be watching all others in the coming days. Thanks heaps
Hey Trevor, Thanks so much for stopping by my channel and taking the time to leave a comment. It's always great to connect with fellow Aussies who share a passion for woodturning. It makes me really happy to hear that you enjoyed the video. I truly appreciate your support mate and subscribing. Let me know if there are any videos that you want to see? Cheers mate. Kezza
Very nice. I was thinking of using Walnut oil next and showing wet sanding it. Thank you so much for the kind words mate. Much appreciated. Cheers, Kerry C
Thank you for the feedback. I leave my products in my storage shed for one to two weeks to ensure the curing process is complete and they become food safe👌 hope that helps. Some products dry/harden faster and the process is quick. Hope this helps mate. 🤝
Thanks heaps, Ian. I'm currently working on that video right now! You read my mind👌 It will be on Shellawax Glow (shellac) and EEE ULTRA shine. Cheers mate and thank you for the support. Make sure you check out the weekly wraps🙏 Kez
Rather than using compressed air and blowing out the dust, do you think vacuuming with a brush attachment work as well? I'm trying to keep the dust down in my shop. Thanks for sharing your methods and time with all.
@@krperry2007 Thank you for your really nice comment mate. I know the feeling. Dust is a huge issue. I prefer using compressed air since it’s the only way I’ve found that really gets dust out of the grain. I’ll link a video here about sanding, where I show a few different attachments; Sanding Like a Pro woodturner. How to Power + rotary sand. Complete Sanding Tutorial. th-cam.com/video/CHAfU_VqdRs/w-d-xo.html
You talk about using a compressor to blow the grit, dust etc out of the bowl, but surely that spreads it everywhere. I prefer to use an industrial strength vacuum to suck all that stuff away.
Thanks for adding to the discussion mate. I find that the air compressor works best for me. I have a huge air scrubber in the shop also that gets the particles flying around. The vacuum (shop vacuum) does an alright job, I prefer the air compressor because it punches the dust out and gives a really clear indication of any torn grain and missed spots. Cheers Brian. Kez
Thanks for the great video! For a spindle turning like an ice cream scoop handle, is it ok to go to a faster speed to burnish the oil? Not sure if that reduces wait time to cure?
Thank you so much for watching and leaving a comment, Jim. The main reason I allow 24 hours between coats is to let it penetrate and harden, allowing for a light sanding between coats to really build up a nice sheen, waterproofing, and durability. I would say give it a go and see what happens. I would apply subsequent coats on something like that for added durability. I hope that helps. Cheers, Kez
Thanks very much mate. No I’ve never tried that🤔 I have read that somewhere. Let me know if there’s anything I might be missing that will benefit others🙏cheers Tyler. Kezza
Great video, I’ve used that technique with a food grade oil and wax and it works great. I’ve not had sed it with danish oil though I use danish oil frequently. What do you think about danish oils as a food safe product? That’s the main reason I haven’t been using it for my food bowls.
I let all my bowls and platters that I used Danish oil, rest for a week. That gives them plenty of time to off gas and then it becomes food-safe and water tight. Hope that helps. Kez
In this video it is store bought Danish oil. Go to this video th-cam.com/video/V74c9TrmAy0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1ddMzbtTtDllgnUQ At around the 20min mark onwards, I talk about the homemade blend of danish oil. Kez
G’day mate. Linseed oil is extracted from flax seeds. Danish oil is a blend of oils, including Linseed oil and/or Tung oil, mineral spirits, synthetic resins, and varnish. Different companies use varying quantities of these oils. I personally prefer using Rustins Danish oil (not sponsored). I also make sure to allow my products to rest while the oil off-gases and becomes foot-safe. Hope that helps mate. Cheers, Kez
Sorry to hear about your accident,hope that u have a fast recovery.Thanks for the response and just wanted to tell you that I've learned a lot from your channel and I appreciate the effort you put into your videos.
Check this video out mate th-cam.com/video/eeL6eVdY18U/w-d-xo.html I remove the tenon sand and oil. The smaller surface area helps, so I apply and buff the first coat on the lathe then subsequent coats are applied and buffed by hand.
I own several rotary sanders, including one from Ubeaut and the Vicmarc rotary sander, which can be connected to a vacuum cleaner. I have listed the gear that I use in my videos under "My kit" in the description. But I always see if you can find it cheaper elsewhere, buy it from there. Please let me know if you have any dramas, mate. Cheers Alex, Kezza
So, I have been in contact with U Beaut Polishes, and they have said to send an email to this address: Orders@ubeaut.com.au. They will help you out, and they ship worldwide. I hope it helps. Kez.
When you use wet and dry sandpaper along with an oil like this, it sands down the surface, creating a really fine paste that is later buffed in. By ‘ridges,’ what exactly are you referring to?
@@morgancalvi6675 I start by sanding with 120, 180, and 240 grit, using normal sandpaper on my drill (not wet and dry). I blow off the dust from the project between each grit change, checking for torn grain and to make sure it’s cutting clean and leaving an even surface. Then, I apply oil to the bowl, thoroughly coating it, before moving on to wet sanding with either 320 or 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper. After wet sanding with the oil, I use a clean rag to buff in the fine paste created by the wet sanding process and the oil, generating heat in the process. I hope this explanation is clear - it’s from a sanding video I made about my process. Kez
I was thinking of trying it. My initial thought though is the oil would go everywhere. But I haven't tried it yet. Might be a good thing to include in the next Woodturning weekly wrap-up video, would you mind? Thank you.
An old metal paint can is great for oily rags in a small workshop. Put a bit of water in the can and toss your oily rags in, then seal the lid tight. No oxygen means no fire.
![[TH] 2024 PMGC League | Survival Stage วันที่ 1 | PUBG MOBILE Global Championship](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FVFT-PFwU80/mqdefault.jpg)
This was an informative video. I saw this one and liked it so much and I subscribed
I'm glad you found the video informative and that you enjoyed it enough to subscribe to the channel. Thank you for the positive feedback, and I hope you continue to find the content valuable and enjoyable. I have a collection of videos based on my Woodturning, Life, and Q&A called the Weekly Wrap. I hope to see you over there in the comments asking some questions. Cheers, mate, and thank you for the support.
Cheers,
Kerry C
Great info & demonstration….. Greetings from Oklahoma USA
Thank you so much for the support. Greetings from Brisbane, Australia.
Brilliant. Finally a full description of how to apply danish oil from
Beginning to end. I thank you. 🙏
So glad it helped Mandy.🤝
Beautiful shine, thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Thanks for commenting, Tony. It only getts better coat after the coat as well.
Cheers, mate.
Kez
Thank you for sharing this with us. You’re doing fantastic work. I’m still a fairly new turner. Learning something new every day. And I wish we had wood like that here in the US. Have a great day.
thank you so much Keith. This is an excellent way of sealing wooden bowls and platters creating a durable watertight finish. Really hope it helps mate. Cheers
Had been familiar with wet sanding gun stocks to fill in grain, but had not heard of doing this with wood turning until now. Late to the party as I've just discovered this channel and I'm still a noob on turning with right at 3 years at it.
Thanks for leaving a comment mate. I find it very effective for larger pieces as well. Creates a nice even coverage over the surface and is water tight after a drying.
Have a great day mate.
Kezza
Kerry, A fine video on wet sanding with oil. I have not seen such a thorough discussion & visual before. I appreciate you putting this together. Gonna give it a try, with product available here in the States.
Thanks so much, Bob. I really appreciate the feedback and the comment. It's such a great finish. I wish you all the best mate. Let me know how you go.
Cheers,
Kezza
I've been waiting my whole life (43 working years as a certified, state-certified male nurse, with what feels like 1 million training courses in Germany) for an Australian colleague to explain to me for minutes how to hold a rag! Thanks, that was still missing in my repertoire. Okay, joking aside. Danish Oil is also one of my favorite finishes. For the last job, I add a dash of walnut oil (walnut oil also hardens) and give the lathe a 1000 grit at a rpm of 2000 to 3000, if the turned object allows it. Otherwise: nice video and well explained, thanks for that. I'll take a look at what else you're doing. Objects with Banksia cones would interest me, because you are sitting at the source. Greetings from northern Germany, stay healthy and take care of yourself, Schorschi.
Hey there Schorschi, It's awesome to hear that you enjoyed the video and found the tips on finishing your woodturning projects helpful. Adding a dash of walnut oil sounds like a great idea, I'll have to give it a go.
Banksia cones are definitely a cool material to work with, I've seen some stunning pieces with them. Thanks for saying hi from Northern Germany, and I hope you have a great day!
PS Make sure you hold the rag correctly 😂
Pps join the team on the Weekly Wrap! and ask questions for the Q&A. I will look forward to hearing from you.
Próst mate,
Kez
Your video making is as impressive as the bowl turning, well done.
Thank you so much, mate. Please send me any request for a video and I will do my best to film it for ya. Im currently working on a video for a jewellery box👌
Cheers mate
@@KerryCorney I'll take you up on that. When you do the jewellery box, if you can illustrate how you 'sqaure out' the bottom (flat from middle to corner), that would be great, as I am yet to feel fully at ease and I am never completely satisfied with the result.
And, for the future, anything on control of the skew for a finer finish on outside curves would be great, too. Thanks Kerry - good luck.
Stunning wood, and finish.
Thanks heaps mate🙏
Nice bowl and finish. I have never wet sanded with oil. Can you put a film finish like lacquer on top? Everyone wants a shiny bowl.
Hey Ken, I would recommend sanding to either 120 or 180 grit and then applying a polyurethane finish, especially if you plan to use something like gloss. After the third coat with Danish oil, I find it will build up a nice semi-gloss sheen.
Does that help? I havent used a lacquer on top and I don't think it would adhere, it might laminate off.
Cheers Ken
Very helpful, thanks. Wet sanding was something I wasn’t 100% certain on the method.
Cheers mate. Experiment with 320 and 400 grits. You can start at lower grits but it might leave track marks. I love we sanding because of no dudt👌 let me know how you go
Always anxious to get to my lathe after watching your vids. Love sanding with Danish oil. Not only dustless but the slurry fills grain, particularly on open grain materials.
That's awesome! Danish oil for sanding = dust-free and grain-enhancing win! 🪚😊 Cheers Les.
Have a great day.
Kez
Great helpful video. Beautiful wood. I've lived in Perth many years ago. I truly love Australia.
Glad to hear that you found the video helpful! And I agree, the wood is absolutely beautiful. Australia is truly a one-of-a-kind, special place. Thanks for sharing your thoughts!
Cheers mate,
Kez
Awesome mate.
Cheers mate. Glad you enjoyed it
Helpful! Your bowl is gorgeous!!!
Cheers Ken🤝 Red Stringybark. Australian hardwood.
I too love Danish oil. Easy to apply & buff up to a nice sheen. A little goes a long way. Nice video. 👍
Thanks heaps mate. I'm glad you enjoyed it and thank you for the comment. I will see you over on the Weekly Wrap crew. Cheers mate.
That looks like a nicely finished bowl but I have never been a fan of using compressed air to blow dust into the air to clean out a bowl in the same room that I end up applying the finish. Even though I have my extractors on at all time I still find dust settles on surfaces. I prefer to vacuum the dust away and then finish of with a tack rag.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts on the Video mate. It's great to hear about different techniques and preferences when it comes to dust collect. Your approach to dust removal is very thorough, and I can definitely see the benefits of using a vacuum and tack rag instead of compressed air. Thank you for sharing your tip, Ronald.
Cheers,
Kerry C.
Very nice
Thanks mate. I hope it helps you out.
salut de françe merci pour le cours
Thank you so much for watching and your support.
Cheers,
Kez
Beautiful. Love that you finish with the end user in mind. Makes it where they can easily fix little dings. I like making the artistic yet functional pieces myself. Keep up the good work
Thanks, Rod. For sure, if someone across the globe scratched there bowl/ platter; they can fix it, and I think that empowers them as well. They can be part of the story of their piece.
Cheers mate
Beautiful bowl
It’s very dense hard material, but it’s so worth the effort🤝 thank you.
I really like that Red Stringy Bark. Beautiful wood!
It is even more beautiful to turn. Thank you so much mate.
I frequently use walnut oil as my sanding lubricant. Except, I wet sand with all the sanding grits, not just the last one. Works very well.
Yeah, I've got Dr. Woodshop's Walnut oil and it works a treat. I haven't tried it with all the grits yet, but thanks for letting me know it works like a charm!. Cheers mate,
Kez
Hi KC...
Beautiful results...the 'timber' you have there is so different from us in the States...great work...
Have a wonderful weekend...🌿🌿🌿
Thanks Pam, yeah its beautiful stuff. Glad you liked the video. Talk soon, cheers,
Kez
Thank you Legend!!
Cheers mate. Hope it helped 🙏
Very helpful, thanks
It's rewarding to know that people are finding it helpful. Cheers, Josh.
Kerry
@@KerryCorney I did subscribe, too.
Much appreciated mate. Make sure you catch up on the weekly wrap video. I share insights into my woodturning gig, life and Q&A.
Cheers mate
That is some really beautiful wood...amazing process. When the bowl is finished can it hold food or be eaten out of?
Certainly does, depending on the oil you use. Usually, you have to wait a couple of days for the oil to harden and what's called off-gas. Then it's safe.
Thanks for watching Kelkilkat🤝
Cheers,
Kez
Definitely a beauty! Nice job.
Thanks heaps mate🙏
Hey mate 🤣😂I use cut and polish, yer that's right, the cut and polish used to polish the Kingswood from supercheap 😎😂🤣😆.Ernie smith from brisbane Australia
True, did it work alright? Thats awesome 👍
Hey mate
I have just stumbled across your channel. Great to see Australians putting up videos I am in Queensland as well and have subscribed instantly great video on the wet sanding. Look forward to more videos. I will be watching all others in the coming days.
Thanks heaps
Hey Trevor,
Thanks so much for stopping by my channel and taking the time to leave a comment. It's always great to connect with fellow Aussies who share a passion for woodturning. It makes me really happy to hear that you enjoyed the video.
I truly appreciate your support mate and subscribing. Let me know if there are any videos that you want to see?
Cheers mate.
Kezza
Great info Kerry. I have done the same thing with orange oil. I saw it done on the axminster tools woodworking wisdom.
Very nice. I was thinking of using Walnut oil next and showing wet sanding it. Thank you so much for the kind words mate. Much appreciated.
Cheers,
Kerry C
Big fan of Danish oil, so easy to apply and super forgiving. Not tried wet sanding it before, will have to give it a crack.
So forgiving and can be lightly sanded and reapplied 👌for sure experiment with 400 grit and 320, keep it moving 👌
Thankyou for all that great information. My question is it food safe?
Thank you for the feedback. I leave my products in my storage shed for one to two weeks to ensure the curing process is complete and they become food safe👌 hope that helps. Some products dry/harden faster and the process is quick. Hope this helps mate. 🤝
Kerry,
Thanks for the great information thorough explanation.
What grit do you use for the wet sanding?
5:50 This is the time stamp of which grit I started with. I would go to 600
Thank you.
Thank you for a very helpful video Kerry. Question, will you be making a video on U-beaut lacquer polish?
Thanks heaps, Ian. I'm currently working on that video right now! You read my mind👌 It will be on Shellawax Glow (shellac) and EEE ULTRA shine.
Cheers mate and thank you for the support. Make sure you check out the weekly wraps🙏
Kez
Rather than using compressed air and blowing out the dust, do you think vacuuming with a brush attachment work as well? I'm trying to keep the dust down in my shop. Thanks for sharing your methods and time with all.
@@krperry2007 Thank you for your really nice comment mate. I know the feeling. Dust is a huge issue. I prefer using compressed air since it’s the only way I’ve found that really gets dust out of the grain. I’ll link a video here about sanding, where I show a few different attachments; Sanding Like a Pro woodturner. How to Power + rotary sand. Complete Sanding Tutorial.
th-cam.com/video/CHAfU_VqdRs/w-d-xo.html
You talk about using a compressor to blow the grit, dust etc out of the bowl, but surely that spreads it everywhere. I prefer to use an industrial strength vacuum to suck all that stuff away.
Thanks for adding to the discussion mate. I find that the air compressor works best for me. I have a huge air scrubber in the shop also that gets the particles flying around. The vacuum (shop vacuum) does an alright job, I prefer the air compressor because it punches the dust out and gives a really clear indication of any torn grain and missed spots. Cheers Brian.
Kez
Thanks for the great video! For a spindle turning like an ice cream scoop handle, is it ok to go to a faster speed to burnish the oil? Not sure if that reduces wait time to cure?
Thank you so much for watching and leaving a comment, Jim. The main reason I allow 24 hours between coats is to let it penetrate and harden, allowing for a light sanding between coats to really build up a nice sheen, waterproofing, and durability. I would say give it a go and see what happens. I would apply subsequent coats on something like that for added durability.
I hope that helps.
Cheers,
Kez
Very informative- never thought of wet sanding that way. Have you ever tried going over top of your danish oil with a friction finish?- Tyler
Thanks very much mate. No I’ve never tried that🤔 I have read that somewhere. Let me know if there’s anything I might be missing that will benefit others🙏cheers Tyler.
Kezza
Great video, I’ve used that technique with a food grade oil and wax and it works great. I’ve not had sed it with danish oil though I use danish oil frequently. What do you think about danish oils as a food safe product? That’s the main reason I haven’t been using it for my food bowls.
I let all my bowls and platters that I used Danish oil, rest for a week. That gives them plenty of time to off gas and then it becomes food-safe and water tight.
Hope that helps.
Kez
Please share if you mix tung oil with danish and if, is it a 1:1 blend?
In this video it is store bought Danish oil. Go to this video th-cam.com/video/V74c9TrmAy0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1ddMzbtTtDllgnUQ
At around the 20min mark onwards, I talk about the homemade blend of danish oil.
Kez
Is raw linseed oil the same as Danish oil
G’day mate. Linseed oil is extracted from flax seeds. Danish oil is a blend of oils, including Linseed oil and/or Tung oil, mineral spirits, synthetic resins, and varnish. Different companies use varying quantities of these oils. I personally prefer using Rustins Danish oil (not sponsored). I also make sure to allow my products to rest while the oil off-gases and becomes foot-safe. Hope that helps mate.
Cheers,
Kez
Sorry to hear about your accident,hope that u have a fast recovery.Thanks for the response and just wanted to tell you that I've learned a lot from your channel and I appreciate the effort you put into your videos.
How do you finish the base of the bowl that's held in the chuck
Check this video out mate th-cam.com/video/eeL6eVdY18U/w-d-xo.html
I remove the tenon sand and oil. The smaller surface area helps, so I apply and buff the first coat on the lathe then subsequent coats are applied and buffed by hand.
Nice video! Thanks. What brand is the rotary sander you show early on? I've been looking for one like that.
I own several rotary sanders, including one from Ubeaut and the Vicmarc rotary sander, which can be connected to a vacuum cleaner. I have listed the gear that I use in my videos under "My kit" in the description. But I always see if you can find it cheaper elsewhere, buy it from there. Please let me know if you have any dramas, mate. Cheers Alex,
Kezza
@@KerryCorney Ubeaut, that's the one! Thanks a lot.
@@alexbrown1147 Cheers, mate. There not making them any more, but you might be able to get one that's out before they all sell up.
Does anyone know of a source for the book in the u.s.
I will ask them for you👌
Message sent
Thanks
So, I have been in contact with U Beaut Polishes, and they have said to send an email to this address: Orders@ubeaut.com.au.
They will help you out, and they ship worldwide.
I hope it helps. Kez.
How come there's so many ridges when wet sanding? Is the sand paper just getting wet...or is it sanding?
When you use wet and dry sandpaper along with an oil like this, it sands down the surface, creating a really fine paste that is later buffed in. By ‘ridges,’ what exactly are you referring to?
@@KerryCorney I think more like ripples...not smooth. Iff you blow the bowl off in between sands...how can you buff it in?
@@morgancalvi6675 I start by sanding with 120, 180, and 240 grit, using normal sandpaper on my drill (not wet and dry). I blow off the dust from the project between each grit change, checking for torn grain and to make sure it’s cutting clean and leaving an even surface. Then, I apply oil to the bowl, thoroughly coating it, before moving on to wet sanding with either 320 or 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper. After wet sanding with the oil, I use a clean rag to buff in the fine paste created by the wet sanding process and the oil, generating heat in the process. I hope this explanation is clear - it’s from a sanding video I made about my process.
Kez
th-cam.com/video/CHAfU_VqdRs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zBfNTOfZmwAcFAEN
Has anyone tried wet sanding with a rotary sander? Pros, cons?
I was thinking of trying it. My initial thought though is the oil would go everywhere. But I haven't tried it yet. Might be a good thing to include in the next Woodturning weekly wrap-up video, would you mind? Thank you.
An old metal paint can is great for oily rags in a small workshop. Put a bit of water in the can and toss your oily rags in, then seal the lid tight. No oxygen means no fire.
Thanks for the tip mate. Always handy to know little gems like this. Cheers.
I would add gloves to the list of components needed.
Thanks mate. 🧤