Paste Wax Mix-Up
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ส.ค. 2021
- Paste wax is an important element in every phase of woodworking. We use it to maintain our tools, polish our finishes, and keep our projects looking beautiful long after we've completed them. Nick shares recipes for two versions of a paste wax that combine the characteristics of four waxes, one a "standard" paste wax that will serve most woodworking purposes and the other completely food safe for kitchen utensils, children's toys, and other projects where toxicity is a concern. You can download his recipes and a chart of common waxes FREE from out store at workshopcompanionstore.com/pr... .
To see all of our videos and SUBSCRIBE for more, see: / @workshopcompanion
Also visit the WORKSHOP COMPANION GENERAL STORE where we offer a wide selection of Nick's BOOKS and PROJECT PLANS in digital format: workshopcompanionstore.com/
Pick up one of Nick’s books FREE just for visiting!
To follow us on social media, try:
FACEBOOK - / workshopcompanion
INSTAGRAM - / workshop_companion
For our non-English-speaking viewers: Closed captions can be set to any language. Click on “CC” (Closed Captions) at the bottom of the screen to turn them on. Click on the gear (Settings) and a menu appears. Click on “Subtitles/CC” and another menu will appear. Click on “Auto Translate” and a menu of languages will appear. Click on the language you want for the closed captions and you will be returned to the video -- closed captions will appear in the language you have chosen. If these captions cover up some of the action, place the cursor over the captions, press and hold the left mouse button, then drag the captions to where you want them on your screen. Release the mouse buttons and they’ll stay there.
Para nuestros espectadores que no hablan inglés: los subtítulos se pueden configurar en cualquier idioma. Haga clic en "CC" (Subtítulos) en la parte inferior de la pantalla para activarlos. Haga clic en el engranaje (Configuración) y aparecerá un menú. Haga clic en "Subtítulos/CC" y aparecerá otro menú. Haga clic en "Traducir automáticamente" y aparecerá un menú de idiomas. Haga clic en el idioma que desea para los subtítulos y volverá al video; los subtítulos aparecerán en el idioma que haya elegido. Si estos subtítulos cubren parte de la acción, coloque el cursor sobre los subtítulos, presione y mantenga presionado el botón izquierdo del mouse, luego arrastre los subtítulos a donde quiera que estén en su pantalla. Suelte los botones del mouse y permanecerán allí.
Our Music is Licensed through Epidemic Sounds - www.epidemicsound.com/referra...
And thank you so much for your time and interest!
#paste wax #mixing wax #mixing your own wax #parrafin #beeswax #carnauba #making wax #melting wax #types of waxes #paste waxes
Folks, several people have written and asked about the jars I use to pack the wax. They are Ball half-pint, wide-mouth mason jars. Search Ball 1440061162 to find stores or online sources.
Thanks! These are getting pricy.
I put my Johnson past wax in them also, the can is a pain in the ass!
Thanks?! No one ever taught me to do this. I have a very small shop. Which means I have to finish one project before I start a new one. I thought I was going to go out and clean everything to start a new project today. I guess I still am. Only now the project is waxing up my stuff. I really wanted to start that lamp. Maybe tomorrow.
@@LambentLarkwhat mean these words.... "Finish one project.
..." ???
I have a large tin of Johnson’s Paste Wax.
It will take me forever to use it up.
Do you know what’s in it?
Honestly the first minute and a half of this video taught me a ton. I didn't know I was supposed to be waxing all that stuff....
Same.
Haha same here. Him: We wax our screws/all tools/etc. Me: We do? Makes sense and won’t hurt so guess I’ll start waxing more stuff. Good info to know!
This dude is legit. He’s always super informative and gets straight to the point.
You're like the shop teacher I never had. Excellent content.
Thanks.
Priceless. This probably is the most valuable single woodworking video I've seen. No kidding.
Another informative and entertaining video. I'll say it again, this is what TH-cam SHOULD be.
And once again, thank you for your kind words.
I think you mean it’s what you WANT TH-cam to be. Other people want it to be other things that are equally important to them
@@MKRM27 I’ll stick with "should” since I was using my own words to describe my own opinions.
A few years ago I bought "butcher block" counter tops and a matching table top. They are really beautiful. However, I needed to find a fully food safe finish and preservative. I wanted to protect the wood from stains and didn't want anything we couldn't eat. I chose bee's wax and mineral oil. I have a friend who works with bees and gives me a good price on bulk wax (I bought nearly a life-time supply for $100). My wife heated up the mineral oil and started adding the wax until we had something like syrup or warm honey. It has good penetration (I prepared my countertop before cutting in my sink) and gives the wood a warm golden color that we love. Thank you for making this video. I still have a ton of bees wax I need to melt and I may use some with some turpentine. I love that old pine smell too!
Thanks for sharing.
I don’t understand why you are not the most watched TH-cam Woodworking Channel, please keep up the superior work!
Because of bullshit like the spinning hammer switch that has a finger hold on it that he claims works better after he waxed it but he waxed a different hammer.
When he tells you to put something down to protect the surface from spills; then he spills so much of it that it runs off the area protected.
You probably didn't notice how he poke his knife through the container of microcrystalline wax with his knife ... twice.
He arranges the waxes from highest to lowest melting points? Then tells you the second melts from 140-200F and that is not even consistent with what is in the image.
It's not more economical to make it yourself, unless you spend half your day waxing shit on a production line. (experience)
I watched it for the laugh about him spilling shit all over the place because a friend said it was hilarious BS and your comment just above his was needing the proper wake up. Abbott & Costello or the three stooges? yeah maybe superior to them .... but otherwise ... I'm laughing just as hard.
@@ejrupp9555 jesus christ dude seek help
@@rasputozen Why? What did I say that was untrue?
@@ejrupp9555 no cause you just wrote a full page essay on something completely out of the way. You shouldnt care this much, you could be so much more productive with your life
All the woodworking videos I've ever seen and not one time has anyone said we wax everything I've never heard this before but it makes so much sense and so much more sense than so many of the other things I've heard especially three-in-one oil on a rag and a can which I love but this makes so much more sense
It makes even more sense after you've done it for fifty years...;-)
Stumbled on this channel by accident. Pleasantly surprised to see it is hosted by none other than Nick Engler whose many books are in my collection. I have watched a few videos and they are very educational!
Thank you. Look forward to seeing more content.
Happy you found us!
I made a pretty cool paste wax where I mixed in colour shifting pigment that's meant to be mixed in with a clear paint, and usually applied via an airbrush. the pigment itself is an extremely fine powder, somewhere between flour and talc.
after a small amount has been mixed into the wax, and stirred until its cool to keep it suspended, it's applied.
the really really cool thing about this particular paste is after its applied and buffed out, the pigment only settles in the micro grooves of the grain. it doesn't settle on the surface of its thoroughly buffed. so all the grain structure is filled with this irradecent, colour shifting tint. it's actually extremely subtle but looks extremely interesting.
I got the colour shifting pigment from Aliexpress and it's very cheap.
Good info; thanks for sharing. Pigmented waxes can be very handing if you're rubbing out the finish on an open-grain wood.
His videos are always stuff you wont find elsewhere on You Tube and always right on the money.
A tip for anyone watching this; when pouring out from your double boiler. You can use a clean screwdriver as a decanting rod (or get a glass decanting rod from Amazon cheap), place the rod next to the lip of your container and when you pour slowly the majority of the fluid will follow the rod down into your container.
Good tip.
I’m a bit late to the party but sir you are the most pleasant man to learn from. It feels like I’ve known you forever. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the kind words.
this guy is the einstein of woodcraft
This channel provides high quality content! Thank you for sharing the knowledge and all the effort you put into these videos. Best part is that my 18 month old daughter enjoys watching with me. After finishing her nighttime bottle, she will watch a video with me until she falls asleep. Works every time.
I often have that effect on people -- young and old. Glad to be so soporific...;-)
@@WorkshopCompanion That’s funny! We love this channel and even though it’s putting my daughter to sleep it’s not out of boredom. She gets mad if I try to watch something else. It must run in my families genes. I remember watching The New Yankee Workshop as a kid with my dad and being mesmerized.
Nick. Great video. Just found your channel and catching up on watching your videos. Thought I would share and old chemist trick for pouring liquids from one container to another to facilitate a less messy transfer. In chemistry terms we would use a glass stirring rod touching the lower lip of the original container (in this case the can used to dissolve the waxes) and place the glass rod into the receiving container. In most cases the liquid’s surface tension will follow into the receiving container. This transfer technique worked great in most chemistry applications and I suspect that a 1/8 - 1/4” wooden dowel rod about 8 - 15” long if a glass rod isn’t available. Thanks for sharing your vast woodworking knowledge!!!
Wow. I mean, WOW! I wish I had known this 70 years ago. I shudder to think of all the melted wax, solvents, lubricants, coffee, and Jack Daniels I've wasted over the years not knowing this simple trick. Wow. There's always something to learn, isn't there? Many thanks for sharing that with us.
You just changed my life. In a small way, I'm no longer taking an organic chem class and I didn't have any mishaps of note, but lord knows I have had the spout on my measuring cup not do it's job and have a dribble of many liquids go down the side and onto the countertop/table/etc. Thanks!
I discovered your channel quite recently and instantly became a subscriber. It is impeccable in every aspect: informative (quite so), lively and entertaining, all in a good overall balance. Explanations are clear and we can feel your in-depth experience in each single sentence - or at least when it is important. Thanks and greetings from Ottawa, ON, Canada!
Thank you Nick, I have been using Renaissance wax for some years and have friends that won't because it is "too expensive for them". Now I will make up a batch and give some away. And start using it on my milling machine table, saws, and everything I can think of. Jimmy
I just tried your hammer flipping trick and dropped the hammer on my toe…this is proof that you know more than I do.
Great video! I've made my own paste wax for years. I use a turkey baster to transfer the liquid wax from the melting pot to the mason jar. No spilling that way. 😉
Great tip! Thanks for sharing.
@@Justin-fb7ni uh... Becuz I didn't think about that. 🤦
@@Justin-fb7ni no worries mate, it's a good idea
Great information!
No pushing products some company gave you.
Your the best!!
Thanks.
Great video. Straight to the point and very little confusion.
You have taught me a lot in such a short time. Thanks.
Now i'm out to the shed to use some of my beeswax that i collected years ago from my beehives.
Thanks. Good luck!
Brilliant video. I learned that the MSDS are now just called SDS, I still call them the old name but you are correct they contain a lot of valuable data.
They do, but unfortunately most of this data is in the form of clues, not straightforward facts. There is a whole (exceedingly boring) video to be dome on how to read the clues in an SDS. in my book on "Finishing" I spend two pages on this very subject.
Can’t wait to try this recipe, I’m going to pour it in the smaller tin that Dutch butter cookies come in, should be the perfect container for wax 👌🏻
Yeah, the Royal Dansk tins would make great wax containers/dispensers -- great excuse for eating more cookies.
Well done! It is nice to find someone who really does understand what they are doing.
Thanks, Nick, for the recipes!
Thanks for your interest.
Brilliant tips and advice!
Excellent explanation, thank you!
Well done here. I’m in the middle of figuring this out. I learned something.
Thank you Sir - trawling through the interweb trying to find something as informative as this tut, has been traumatic. An informative, well delivered and very refreshing video that covered many of the gaps glossed over by others. Much appreciated 😃
We appreciate you're saying so.
Thank you for sharing this. I'd been some what mystified by this process and you broke it down very clearly.
Impressive video. So informative.
Hands down THE BEST video on that topic. Thanks a ton!
Most welcome.
Another great, educational video!!
Great lesson Nick. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Most welcome.
Hello and thank you for your generosity and sharing the recipe 🙏
Most welcome.
Boy do I enjoy your content and delivery, thanks so very much 😊
Most welcome.
Hey, Nick... Been following you since I bought my Shopsmith back in '93. Miss the old Shopsmith videos but your more recent ones are great too. Due to the demise of Johnson paste wax, I made up a batch of your standard recipe (although I added a block of camphor). Absolutely great stuff. Cost me around $18 for a pound can-full at today's Amazon prices for the ingredients. That's quit comparable with the prices of competitor waxes and is way more specific to my needs. My Shopsmith is quite happy! Thanks for the video and the recipes!
Glad to have been of help.
You always have great information!!! Thank you for these great videos!!
Most welcome.
Just fabulous! Thank you so much for this wonderful video
Most welcome.
Your videos are really good. I always learn a lot with them.
Thanks for saying.
As always super informative
Thanks.
I was looking for an amazing recipe like this for wood and steel. I still need a recipe to apply on leather jacket and boots/shoes! Thanks Mr Gepeto 😘
Brilliant video 👏
See? I’m right. My god, the amount of knowledge you possess.😎🤜🤛👍👍
The only reason I possess all this knowledge is the my publisher was thoughtful enough to give me copies of all the books I wrote. You would be amazed at how often I have to look up something I wrote twenty years ago. A lot of stuff falls through the cracks -- and the cracks get wider each year! :-( But thanks.
@@WorkshopCompanion
(ahem, ahem, … Ok - but then …. )😎👌👍👍
@@johnrice6793 Do you need a cough drop? ;-)
@@WorkshopCompanion maybe yes, maybe no!👍
That is so cool
I've found all videos that I ssen from you are all very helpful. Also you explain in simple detailed explanations to why and ways you use any tip. Keep up the great info
Thanks for the kind words.
That did it for me! .
Subscribed
I always knew that there was some actual knowledge to be found in TH-cam, and I finally found it. Thanks for sharing it with us.!
You're welcome...and welcome!
Fantastic video!
Wow, absolutely incredible video. Answered all my questions. You remind me of a handyman I once knew, great guy. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experience so freely!
Most welcome.
Wonderful
I've been making my own paste wax for a short while. Haven't tried other waxes yet since I've got a lot of beeswax. For small batches I use a standard soup can in the boiler having worked on it with pliers to form a pouring lip. Very few drips. The squat Mason Jars are a brilliant idea.
Love it!
Very informative video..sir..thnx.. much appreciated
Most welcome.
Excellent tips. Deserves more views.
Agreed.
Awesome stuff as always!
Thanks.
Great video, like all I have seen by you, thanks for all!
Most welcome.
Absolute masterclass! I usually use empty hand cream tins and keep my rags inside them, I also melt everything already inside them so I don't have to spill it and they're easy to stack away. I didn't knew about the mixing waxes for different effects, now I'll definitely have to try it! Thank mate, this was legit the best indepth video about this!
Most welcome.
Very helpful and useful video.
Thanks.
For work surfaces, I recommend using 1 part multicrystalline and 3 parts carnauba melted in 3 parts turpentine, it'll make a nice coat that's easily applied (especially with a machine, and if you're routinely waxing tables, you *should* use a power tool) but also hard when done and sort of "heals" itself - as in, you may notice a scratch after doing some work, and the next day, it's just gone. This "self-healing" seems to persist until the coat is so thin you see bald patches on your table.
That dog got waxed yesterday and look at him, so shiny.
Great advice, I have always stayed away from wax, guess I have been wrong, thank you.
Most welcome.
Nick, you think of everything.
Thanks, but it's not all me. Travis' camerawork and editing make it look like I've got it together.
Just a safety advice for beginners: don't You ever, never, melt wax on a free flame. Wax (and obviously thinners) vapors catch fire and they can cause a disaster. Always use and electric stove like in the video.
Bees make their wax not on their legs but on the underside of their abdomen... it comes out in pairs of scales from in between four segments of their abdomen... pure white when it is produced only turning yellow as gets older, then onto very dark brown to black as more and more larva pupate in the comb and leave behind a layer of casing... the darker the wax the older it is...
Mineral oil and beeswax, is what I use for stuff that comes in contact with food.
Thank you
Most welcome.
It's not surprising you can't melt wax in the microwave. Paraffin is sometimes used as a lens or prism at microwave frequencies :)
I make my own wax for about 8yrs now. I use the shallow bowl/cup the American Chinese food comes in works great... Think "wonton soup"... Cheerio...
I think you need that screw eye to hold onto that waxed hammer handle. Great video. Thanks.
Ah my friend you have learned me something again and made me laugh too!
Excellent... I need to make a car wax and this is a good start
One thing that I throw in is orange or lemon oil. It's good for wood.
Makes sense. Lord, but the jabbering and waffling I've had to put up with.. This is well laid out.
Thank you, l am going to try making my own wax now.
Good luck!
Lol. I don't think you're going to find the recipe for that wax on a woodworking Channel!
What a great video. I watch you Americans use wax paste on everything but we can't get it here in Australia. Ive been making my own cutting board conditioner for ages now so can now make paste wax. Thanks!
What about Gilly's? (Gilly-Stephenson is based in western Australia.) I've used their Carnauba Polish and think it's a fine blend of carnauba and beeswax. I haven't tried their Cabinetmaker's Polish, which sounds like a reverse blend -- more beeswax than carnauba -- but my experience tells me that too could work well. As for working wood without paste wax, I shudder to think of it. The only thing more important in my shop are my border collies. Glad to have been of help in your crisis.
@@WorkshopCompanion Ive not heard of Gillys. Ill check them out thanks for that!
Could you recommend an oil / wax recipe for applying to my wooden gun stock ? I prefer a satin or flat finish, I do not want a glossy/ shiny finish.
I'm late to the game here, but consider salad grade walnut oil if you want to add oil, and limonene as a much less toxic solvent. I have added powdered mineral pigments, sienna looks great on Cherry for example.
Hint : use a can opener to remove the lip of your tins if you are going to pour liquid .
The cheapest source of paraffin that I've found is thrift stores and yard sales. I buy the ugly white candles that no one wants, especially the really big ones. It's simple to melt them down in an old crock pot I also bought at a thrift store, and cast blocks in a cast iron lead mold to make ingots that are much easier to store. I have a large plastic bin filled with blocks of wax, for a wax cost of around $5.00 (US). Worth doing, as it's useful for more than just woodworking.
You can pour a lot cleaner if you use a wide mouth canning funnel. They are sized for the canning jars, and they make cheap plastic ones that are more than good enough for this.
Just recently found your channel. Thank you! I mostly do scroll saw fret work and have been wondering about using the warm mixture to dip the piece in order to get full coverage of all the nooks and crannies. Any idea if that would work?
With finish, yes. But with wax? I think you would be creating a lot of unnecessary work trying to buff out the hardened wax in all the crevices.
I've always used naptha
Love naptha, but not for wax. Evaporates too fast, no time to rub out.
I make cutting board wax with mineral oil and beeswax and use the microwave oven. The mineral oil gets hot and that melts the beeswax.
is it possible to make a hard wax oil.
Those little Mason jars are great.
Coat them with some silicone or even a layer of tape just incase on ends up getting knocked off the bench.
Good idea.
Can these finishes be applied to stained wood without messing up the color?
👌👌👌
The way I do it is with a sous vide cooker. Throw everything in a canning jar, close it, put it in the water bath and set it to 150F, walk away, come back in an hour, shake the jar to give it a good mix, and put the jar somewhere to cool down.
No need to have turp near a hot surface or worse an open flame. No boiling hot wax to spill everywhere. Just a perfectly creamy paste ready to go in two hours.
Thanks for the tips.
Love your work and your willingness to share knowledge. I am attempting to make the Standard NIXWAX but encountering some issues sourcing the ingredients. Microcrystaline wax is hard to get in Western Australia so I will purchase from other states. The Parafin wax I received is of cosmetic grade and is enriched with vitamin E and a blend of nourishing oils. Do you see this being a problem? Also, may I use Pure Gum Turpentine as the solvent?
I made this for years without MC wax because it hadn't been invented yet -- just eliminate the MC wax in the recipe and add some additional beeswax and paraffin. Travis prefers making paste wax with little or no MC wax to make it easier to rub out.
I tried waxing everything just like you said. It's nice mostly but I miss my eyebrows.
Can use for leather?
Thank you for this. I have been trying to figure out the formula on my own for a while. I have three experimental batches I'm working with now. I'm using the wax on toys and using mineral oil as my solvent.
How long does it take for turpentine to evaporate?
The turpentine begins to evaporate seconds after the wax is applied -- it glazes over pretty fast. I would imagine that it is completely evaporated by the time you buff it out. The wax that's left on the surface is only a few molecules thick after a proper buffing and anything with any vapor pressure at all would escape quickly.
Nick, thank you! Timely and interesting … I'm getting into bowl turning and the various waxes are expensive: Yorkshire, Renaissance, etc. What do you think about a mix for bowl final finish … I'm using sanding sealer, and have the Yorkshire grits.
I used to turn pipes and just sanded to really fine and buffed in carnauba … very nice …
John, Renaissance wax is super -- I've used it on several restorations of classic furniture. It's a one-wax wonder -- microcrystaline, mostly. Still, I think I get a more durable shine from the four-wax recipe I published at workshopcompanion.selz.com/categories/know-how . But if you're turning, it's hard to beat pure carnauba for a bright shine and durability.
@@WorkshopCompanion Thanks, Nick! The download worked just fine! I really appreciate your careful prep and good teaching; nicely sequenced and illusstrated …
Good day Sir ! What’s your opinion on using Tung oil for the solvent. And would you use pure tung oil to finish the wood, let it cure, then wax over it ? Or just oil based wax. Thanks !
You should do those experiments.
Great video, enjoyed the information but here what I didn't like or agree with. 1. Don't put the solvent in till after the wax has melted, even the mineral oil. 2. use a melt container that pours naturally, so it does not drip while pouring!! Don't use a lipped tin can, but if you do, yes a screw driver over the lip to guide the flow.
Another wax I use is brown shoe polish for all my tool handles. If scratch just buff on a new coat. Works ike a charm!
I am really curious about the microwave you used to test that.
Cause wax can be melted in the microwave - and many instructions, including from wax-manufacturers for various crafts, suggest that as one method of heating up wax if you do not have a dedicated wax-warmer.
Heating it up in hot water assures no overheating, but can be a lot slower. Heating it up on a flame has the risk of igniting it if you leave it on for (faaaar) too long.
last time i went for a 3step approach:
I know i would need the wax in a couple of hours so i put it in a black box into the sun (that made the wax soft), then i used the microwave to get it mostly molten, and lastly in a water-bath to have it melt fully and stay that way.
Right now planning on building a small insulated black box - should be enough to fully melt wax. Nice little small project, should be cheap, and hey: Sunlight is for free and quit powerful even in winter. making a box that gets 1m² of sunlight easily nets you 400W of heating even up north, in summer it can even reach 1000 W. That is as much as an electric stove-top.
I made up a batch of NIXWAX using boiled linseed oil instead of turpentine or mineral oil. It came out super sticky. I could probably use it as a glue stick! Can you make a recommendation for what to add to harden it up a bit? I'm thinking I should add more carnauba wax or paraffin - or maybe linseed oil - but I don't want to start "chasing" the right admixture. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
"If you want to eat your wax like pudding"
That cracked me up.
I have been using bees, micro and coconut oil to blend a paste. I mix up a 3 Kg. batch as my base, 1 Kg. ea., The oil is added to get the right consistency upon cooling and thus this amount can't be a set weight each time as the waxes will vary. T.hen adjust that again for specific projects. It's been about 20 years I've been using this. Cheers, Billy in B.C., Canada
Thanks for sharing.
I also use coconut oil.