Folks, several people have written and asked about the jars I use to pack the wax. They are Ball half-pint, wide-mouth mason jars. Search Ball 1440061162 to find stores or online sources.
Thanks?! No one ever taught me to do this. I have a very small shop. Which means I have to finish one project before I start a new one. I thought I was going to go out and clean everything to start a new project today. I guess I still am. Only now the project is waxing up my stuff. I really wanted to start that lamp. Maybe tomorrow.
@@WorkshopCompanion Lots of great information here, thanks. One question; how about dissolving the wax in boiled linseed oil (I have plenty of beeswax & BLO...).
All the woodworking videos I've ever seen and not one time has anyone said we wax everything I've never heard this before but it makes so much sense and so much more sense than so many of the other things I've heard especially three-in-one oil on a rag and a can which I love but this makes so much more sense
Nick is a credit to his craft and a gem of a person. Thanks, Nick! At 67, I am finally setting up my woodworking shop, and your knowledge so eloquently presented 🎁 is a tremendous gift!
Because of bullshit like the spinning hammer switch that has a finger hold on it that he claims works better after he waxed it but he waxed a different hammer. When he tells you to put something down to protect the surface from spills; then he spills so much of it that it runs off the area protected. You probably didn't notice how he poke his knife through the container of microcrystalline wax with his knife ... twice. He arranges the waxes from highest to lowest melting points? Then tells you the second melts from 140-200F and that is not even consistent with what is in the image. It's not more economical to make it yourself, unless you spend half your day waxing shit on a production line. (experience) I watched it for the laugh about him spilling shit all over the place because a friend said it was hilarious BS and your comment just above his was needing the proper wake up. Abbott & Costello or the three stooges? yeah maybe superior to them .... but otherwise ... I'm laughing just as hard.
@@ejrupp9555 no cause you just wrote a full page essay on something completely out of the way. You shouldnt care this much, you could be so much more productive with your life
A few years ago I bought "butcher block" counter tops and a matching table top. They are really beautiful. However, I needed to find a fully food safe finish and preservative. I wanted to protect the wood from stains and didn't want anything we couldn't eat. I chose bee's wax and mineral oil. I have a friend who works with bees and gives me a good price on bulk wax (I bought nearly a life-time supply for $100). My wife heated up the mineral oil and started adding the wax until we had something like syrup or warm honey. It has good penetration (I prepared my countertop before cutting in my sink) and gives the wood a warm golden color that we love. Thank you for making this video. I still have a ton of bees wax I need to melt and I may use some with some turpentine. I love that old pine smell too!
Stumbled on this channel by accident. Pleasantly surprised to see it is hosted by none other than Nick Engler whose many books are in my collection. I have watched a few videos and they are very educational! Thank you. Look forward to seeing more content.
This channel provides high quality content! Thank you for sharing the knowledge and all the effort you put into these videos. Best part is that my 18 month old daughter enjoys watching with me. After finishing her nighttime bottle, she will watch a video with me until she falls asleep. Works every time.
@@WorkshopCompanion That’s funny! We love this channel and even though it’s putting my daughter to sleep it’s not out of boredom. She gets mad if I try to watch something else. It must run in my families genes. I remember watching The New Yankee Workshop as a kid with my dad and being mesmerized.
Nick. Great video. Just found your channel and catching up on watching your videos. Thought I would share and old chemist trick for pouring liquids from one container to another to facilitate a less messy transfer. In chemistry terms we would use a glass stirring rod touching the lower lip of the original container (in this case the can used to dissolve the waxes) and place the glass rod into the receiving container. In most cases the liquid’s surface tension will follow into the receiving container. This transfer technique worked great in most chemistry applications and I suspect that a 1/8 - 1/4” wooden dowel rod about 8 - 15” long if a glass rod isn’t available. Thanks for sharing your vast woodworking knowledge!!!
Wow. I mean, WOW! I wish I had known this 70 years ago. I shudder to think of all the melted wax, solvents, lubricants, coffee, and Jack Daniels I've wasted over the years not knowing this simple trick. Wow. There's always something to learn, isn't there? Many thanks for sharing that with us.
You just changed my life. In a small way, I'm no longer taking an organic chem class and I didn't have any mishaps of note, but lord knows I have had the spout on my measuring cup not do it's job and have a dribble of many liquids go down the side and onto the countertop/table/etc. Thanks!
Great video! I've made my own paste wax for years. I use a turkey baster to transfer the liquid wax from the melting pot to the mason jar. No spilling that way. 😉
Great video. Straight to the point and very little confusion. You have taught me a lot in such a short time. Thanks. Now i'm out to the shed to use some of my beeswax that i collected years ago from my beehives.
Thank you Nick, I have been using Renaissance wax for some years and have friends that won't because it is "too expensive for them". Now I will make up a batch and give some away. And start using it on my milling machine table, saws, and everything I can think of. Jimmy
I'm convinced that watching informative videos like this help to heal the brain of every 10 insipid, moronic things that we have been subjected to in the past. Thank you for this invaluable information, kind Sir! Your service is more valuable than you could ever know.
A tip for anyone watching this; when pouring out from your double boiler. You can use a clean screwdriver as a decanting rod (or get a glass decanting rod from Amazon cheap), place the rod next to the lip of your container and when you pour slowly the majority of the fluid will follow the rod down into your container.
Brilliant video. I learned that the MSDS are now just called SDS, I still call them the old name but you are correct they contain a lot of valuable data.
They do, but unfortunately most of this data is in the form of clues, not straightforward facts. There is a whole (exceedingly boring) video to be dome on how to read the clues in an SDS. in my book on "Finishing" I spend two pages on this very subject.
Been doing woodworking (cabinetry) for 20 years and I prefer using old-fashioned products for finishing like french polish with shellac, oils, waxes and home made varnishes but I never have I received so much info about waxes as in this video. Turns me on and I'm going to whip-up a batch. Thank you for your clear explanations and Merry Christmas.
That did it for me! . Subscribed I always knew that there was some actual knowledge to be found in TH-cam, and I finally found it. Thanks for sharing it with us.!
I made a pretty cool paste wax where I mixed in colour shifting pigment that's meant to be mixed in with a clear paint, and usually applied via an airbrush. the pigment itself is an extremely fine powder, somewhere between flour and talc. after a small amount has been mixed into the wax, and stirred until its cool to keep it suspended, it's applied. the really really cool thing about this particular paste is after its applied and buffed out, the pigment only settles in the micro grooves of the grain. it doesn't settle on the surface of its thoroughly buffed. so all the grain structure is filled with this irradecent, colour shifting tint. it's actually extremely subtle but looks extremely interesting. I got the colour shifting pigment from Aliexpress and it's very cheap.
Man do I have so many different wax mixes. Stuff for finishing, stuff for polishing, stuff for turnings, stuff for flat cabinets. And it all works great! I personally like the oil and wax finish mix. I put it on, wipe down somewhat an hour later, and rub out the next day. Using pure tung or linseed oils as base makes them drying finishes. And polymerized versions of them makes the drying time bearable
The turpentine shown in the video has a lot of other chemicals besides turpentine. It doesn't even smell right. I make sure to always use what is labeled "pure gum spirits of turpentine". It smells great and works great without the nasty additives. Thanks for all the content, I enjoy your channel.
Hey, Nick... Been following you since I bought my Shopsmith back in '93. Miss the old Shopsmith videos but your more recent ones are great too. Due to the demise of Johnson paste wax, I made up a batch of your standard recipe (although I added a block of camphor). Absolutely great stuff. Cost me around $18 for a pound can-full at today's Amazon prices for the ingredients. That's quit comparable with the prices of competitor waxes and is way more specific to my needs. My Shopsmith is quite happy! Thanks for the video and the recipes!
Really enjoyed this and subscribed. Hope your other videos are as informative as this one. Just in passing tho - It's Car-Nah-ba rather than Car-New-ba.
I've found all videos that I ssen from you are all very helpful. Also you explain in simple detailed explanations to why and ways you use any tip. Keep up the great info
Absolute masterclass! I usually use empty hand cream tins and keep my rags inside them, I also melt everything already inside them so I don't have to spill it and they're easy to stack away. I didn't knew about the mixing waxes for different effects, now I'll definitely have to try it! Thank mate, this was legit the best indepth video about this!
This is the best wax video I’ve seen. Really demystifies everything. Next up is to find a source of the microcrystalline wax, I have the others from past attempts.
Wow, absolutely incredible video. Answered all my questions. You remind me of a handyman I once knew, great guy. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experience so freely!
The only reason I possess all this knowledge is the my publisher was thoughtful enough to give me copies of all the books I wrote. You would be amazed at how often I have to look up something I wrote twenty years ago. A lot of stuff falls through the cracks -- and the cracks get wider each year! :-( But thanks.
I've been making my own paste wax for a short while. Haven't tried other waxes yet since I've got a lot of beeswax. For small batches I use a standard soup can in the boiler having worked on it with pliers to form a pouring lip. Very few drips. The squat Mason Jars are a brilliant idea.
Great Video!. We bought our house from my wife's mom and dad. After watching this video I was thinking that in out closet of clean stuff thre was in old can of wax. Sure enough there is was. Canuba wax (made with pertoleum by products) and scotch bright. it had shrunk a bit but it was in a good can, I got busy on my dining room table that I inherited from my mom who had it made by the Amish in a galaxy far far away.. It defintily too some elbow grease, that old wax was tough, but it looks great, then I got some 600 grit sand paper to clean up some rought spots. and now thoses spots are like glass. Guess I am going to have to polish the whole table now, but going to get some power equiptment for that. I think the shine is just from theremove of umteen years of use. There does appear to be some find of clear coat on the wood as one spot has some sort of chemical reaction as eaten thru the finsh. Questions: Can I revjinate Wax? I was thinking of adding just enough turpinetine to fill in the gap on the out side ring up to the top of the wax which appears to be the amout evaporated, give it a water bath mix and cool. What is that finshing producted used on the table top if you had to take a guess?
Have you ever lacquered your machine surfaces? I did when I was forced to keep my tablesaw and jointer outdoors(I made them each their own removeable covers out of plywood). One coat would last about a year. Then I would scrape off last years coat, sand with 220&400 grit to a nice shine, put the new layer on. The wooden cover was light enough to lift off each time, and the lacquer fended away the humidity. It worked for 12 years!
A very creative solution to an awful problem. Those tools that I have had to make resistant to moisture, I have blued instead of lacquered. Bluing puts a very thin layer of "black rust" (Fe3O4) on the surface that effectively seals the iron surface and prevents oxygen from reaching the iron crystals beneath the blued layer. This, in turn, prevents red rust (Fe2O3) from forming. It doesn't have to be scraped off, although I do re-apply the bluing chemicals from time to time if I see a little red rust forming.
For work surfaces, I recommend using 1 part multicrystalline and 3 parts carnauba melted in 3 parts turpentine, it'll make a nice coat that's easily applied (especially with a machine, and if you're routinely waxing tables, you *should* use a power tool) but also hard when done and sort of "heals" itself - as in, you may notice a scratch after doing some work, and the next day, it's just gone. This "self-healing" seems to persist until the coat is so thin you see bald patches on your table.
This is great to know, thanks for sharing. I just have to find a source for the microcrystaline wax (assuming that’s the same as the ‘multi’ you typed)
What a great video. I watch you Americans use wax paste on everything but we can't get it here in Australia. Ive been making my own cutting board conditioner for ages now so can now make paste wax. Thanks!
What about Gilly's? (Gilly-Stephenson is based in western Australia.) I've used their Carnauba Polish and think it's a fine blend of carnauba and beeswax. I haven't tried their Cabinetmaker's Polish, which sounds like a reverse blend -- more beeswax than carnauba -- but my experience tells me that too could work well. As for working wood without paste wax, I shudder to think of it. The only thing more important in my shop are my border collies. Glad to have been of help in your crisis.
you totally can heat them in a microwave! Bang on regarding the info on microwaves so I don't know where the moisture comes from, maybe the air? Which then heats the container enough that it eventually gets hot enough to melt the waxes. I used a pyrex measuring cup and it took about 4 mins to heat up a total of around 6 fl ounces.
Tip: take a bamboo skewer or other long, skinny object and hold it against the top of the container, then pour *down* the skewer. The surface tension that makes the liquid cling to the container and run down to the bottom, will instead make it run down the object. No spill!
If you hold a stick, something like a chopstick, across the top of the can holding the warmed wax, it will pour without dripping. The stick should be a few inches longer than the diameter of the can so the wax can follow it down to the container you are pouring into and it won't drip. It's a little hard to hold the stick in place but doable.
another tip you can use ethanol 96% or linseed oil or other seed oil as solvent you need to mix it week while warm but can be done the alcohol one will dry fast but can be used in a rush
Do you have model #/weight size and where can I buy your scale? Also, you sell plans for the table/cabinet that is behind you on this video? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Richard from Cibolo TX.
Just recently found your channel. Thank you! I mostly do scroll saw fret work and have been wondering about using the warm mixture to dip the piece in order to get full coverage of all the nooks and crannies. Any idea if that would work?
I made up a batch of NIXWAX using boiled linseed oil instead of turpentine or mineral oil. It came out super sticky. I could probably use it as a glue stick! Can you make a recommendation for what to add to harden it up a bit? I'm thinking I should add more carnauba wax or paraffin - or maybe linseed oil - but I don't want to start "chasing" the right admixture. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Folks, several people have written and asked about the jars I use to pack the wax. They are Ball half-pint, wide-mouth mason jars. Search Ball 1440061162 to find stores or online sources.
Thanks! These are getting pricy.
I put my Johnson past wax in them also, the can is a pain in the ass!
Thanks?! No one ever taught me to do this. I have a very small shop. Which means I have to finish one project before I start a new one. I thought I was going to go out and clean everything to start a new project today. I guess I still am. Only now the project is waxing up my stuff. I really wanted to start that lamp. Maybe tomorrow.
@@LambentLarkwhat mean these words.... "Finish one project.
..." ???
I have a large tin of Johnson’s Paste Wax.
It will take me forever to use it up.
Do you know what’s in it?
I am a self-taught woodworker and I had NO IDEA that i was supposed to wax so many things! Thank you for the extremely educational tutorial!
Most welcome. I have a presentation I give from time to time called "The 15 Commandments of Woodworking.:- The first commandment is "Wax everything."
@@WorkshopCompanion is this presentation available on line anywhere? I was looking for it the other day and couldn't find any trace.
@@TimRice-v7t We'll work it into a video, or series of videos, sooner or later.
Honestly the first minute and a half of this video taught me a ton. I didn't know I was supposed to be waxing all that stuff....
Same.
Haha same here. Him: We wax our screws/all tools/etc. Me: We do? Makes sense and won’t hurt so guess I’ll start waxing more stuff. Good info to know!
Honestly same, I jus' remembered I ' saw a comment 'bout beeswax and woodworkin' months ago.. Now... I'm here.
I’m a bit late to the party but sir you are the most pleasant man to learn from. It feels like I’ve known you forever. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the kind words.
@@WorkshopCompanion Lots of great information here, thanks.
One question; how about dissolving the wax in boiled linseed oil (I have plenty of beeswax & BLO...).
This dude is legit. He’s always super informative and gets straight to the point.
All the woodworking videos I've ever seen and not one time has anyone said we wax everything I've never heard this before but it makes so much sense and so much more sense than so many of the other things I've heard especially three-in-one oil on a rag and a can which I love but this makes so much more sense
It makes even more sense after you've done it for fifty years...;-)
Another informative and entertaining video. I'll say it again, this is what TH-cam SHOULD be.
And once again, thank you for your kind words.
I think you mean it’s what you WANT TH-cam to be. Other people want it to be other things that are equally important to them
@@Macron87 I’ll stick with "should” since I was using my own words to describe my own opinions.
You're like the shop teacher I never had. Excellent content.
Thanks.
Simply the best woodworking channel on TH-cam. Thanks so much for the content :)
Most welcome.
Nick is a credit to his craft and a gem of a person. Thanks, Nick! At 67, I am finally setting up my woodworking shop, and your knowledge so eloquently presented 🎁 is a tremendous gift!
Thanks for the kind words.
I don’t understand why you are not the most watched TH-cam Woodworking Channel, please keep up the superior work!
Because of bullshit like the spinning hammer switch that has a finger hold on it that he claims works better after he waxed it but he waxed a different hammer.
When he tells you to put something down to protect the surface from spills; then he spills so much of it that it runs off the area protected.
You probably didn't notice how he poke his knife through the container of microcrystalline wax with his knife ... twice.
He arranges the waxes from highest to lowest melting points? Then tells you the second melts from 140-200F and that is not even consistent with what is in the image.
It's not more economical to make it yourself, unless you spend half your day waxing shit on a production line. (experience)
I watched it for the laugh about him spilling shit all over the place because a friend said it was hilarious BS and your comment just above his was needing the proper wake up. Abbott & Costello or the three stooges? yeah maybe superior to them .... but otherwise ... I'm laughing just as hard.
@@ejrupp9555 jesus christ dude seek help
@@rasputozen Why? What did I say that was untrue?
@@ejrupp9555 no cause you just wrote a full page essay on something completely out of the way. You shouldnt care this much, you could be so much more productive with your life
A few years ago I bought "butcher block" counter tops and a matching table top. They are really beautiful. However, I needed to find a fully food safe finish and preservative. I wanted to protect the wood from stains and didn't want anything we couldn't eat. I chose bee's wax and mineral oil. I have a friend who works with bees and gives me a good price on bulk wax (I bought nearly a life-time supply for $100). My wife heated up the mineral oil and started adding the wax until we had something like syrup or warm honey. It has good penetration (I prepared my countertop before cutting in my sink) and gives the wood a warm golden color that we love. Thank you for making this video. I still have a ton of bees wax I need to melt and I may use some with some turpentine. I love that old pine smell too!
Thanks for sharing.
Stumbled on this channel by accident. Pleasantly surprised to see it is hosted by none other than Nick Engler whose many books are in my collection. I have watched a few videos and they are very educational!
Thank you. Look forward to seeing more content.
Happy you found us!
Priceless. This probably is the most valuable single woodworking video I've seen. No kidding.
this guy is the einstein of woodcraft
This channel provides high quality content! Thank you for sharing the knowledge and all the effort you put into these videos. Best part is that my 18 month old daughter enjoys watching with me. After finishing her nighttime bottle, she will watch a video with me until she falls asleep. Works every time.
I often have that effect on people -- young and old. Glad to be so soporific...;-)
@@WorkshopCompanion That’s funny! We love this channel and even though it’s putting my daughter to sleep it’s not out of boredom. She gets mad if I try to watch something else. It must run in my families genes. I remember watching The New Yankee Workshop as a kid with my dad and being mesmerized.
Great information!
No pushing products some company gave you.
Your the best!!
Thanks.
Nick. Great video. Just found your channel and catching up on watching your videos. Thought I would share and old chemist trick for pouring liquids from one container to another to facilitate a less messy transfer. In chemistry terms we would use a glass stirring rod touching the lower lip of the original container (in this case the can used to dissolve the waxes) and place the glass rod into the receiving container. In most cases the liquid’s surface tension will follow into the receiving container. This transfer technique worked great in most chemistry applications and I suspect that a 1/8 - 1/4” wooden dowel rod about 8 - 15” long if a glass rod isn’t available. Thanks for sharing your vast woodworking knowledge!!!
Wow. I mean, WOW! I wish I had known this 70 years ago. I shudder to think of all the melted wax, solvents, lubricants, coffee, and Jack Daniels I've wasted over the years not knowing this simple trick. Wow. There's always something to learn, isn't there? Many thanks for sharing that with us.
You just changed my life. In a small way, I'm no longer taking an organic chem class and I didn't have any mishaps of note, but lord knows I have had the spout on my measuring cup not do it's job and have a dribble of many liquids go down the side and onto the countertop/table/etc. Thanks!
I just tried your hammer flipping trick and dropped the hammer on my toe…this is proof that you know more than I do.
Play that part of the video at 1/4 speed....
His videos are always stuff you wont find elsewhere on You Tube and always right on the money.
Great video! I've made my own paste wax for years. I use a turkey baster to transfer the liquid wax from the melting pot to the mason jar. No spilling that way. 😉
Great tip! Thanks for sharing.
@@Justin-fb7ni uh... Becuz I didn't think about that. 🤦
@@Justin-fb7ni no worries mate, it's a good idea
Now that SC Johnson no longer makes their wonderful paste wax, I owe you big-big. Thank you so much for this video!
Most welcome.
I'm always blown away 10/10 by all the knowledge you drop but that hammer twirl at the end was nuts -- 11/10!! wowww
That Hammer has something like a ring to spin that way? Funny
Great video. Straight to the point and very little confusion.
You have taught me a lot in such a short time. Thanks.
Now i'm out to the shed to use some of my beeswax that i collected years ago from my beehives.
Thanks. Good luck!
Thank you Nick, I have been using Renaissance wax for some years and have friends that won't because it is "too expensive for them". Now I will make up a batch and give some away. And start using it on my milling machine table, saws, and everything I can think of. Jimmy
Can’t wait to try this recipe, I’m going to pour it in the smaller tin that Dutch butter cookies come in, should be the perfect container for wax 👌🏻
Yeah, the Royal Dansk tins would make great wax containers/dispensers -- great excuse for eating more cookies.
Thanks for another great and helpful video Nick. Love your humour mixed in with your advice.
Most welcome.
I'm convinced that watching informative videos like this help to heal the brain of every 10 insipid, moronic things that we have been subjected to in the past.
Thank you for this invaluable information, kind Sir! Your service is more valuable than you could ever know.
Most welcome, and thanks for the kind words.
Any else feel like this is the Mr Rodger’s of woodworking? Just me? 👀👀 love it.
A tip for anyone watching this; when pouring out from your double boiler. You can use a clean screwdriver as a decanting rod (or get a glass decanting rod from Amazon cheap), place the rod next to the lip of your container and when you pour slowly the majority of the fluid will follow the rod down into your container.
Good tip.
Brilliant video. I learned that the MSDS are now just called SDS, I still call them the old name but you are correct they contain a lot of valuable data.
They do, but unfortunately most of this data is in the form of clues, not straightforward facts. There is a whole (exceedingly boring) video to be dome on how to read the clues in an SDS. in my book on "Finishing" I spend two pages on this very subject.
Well done! It is nice to find someone who really does understand what they are doing.
Been doing woodworking (cabinetry) for 20 years and I prefer using old-fashioned products for finishing like french polish with shellac, oils, waxes and home made varnishes but I never have I received so much info about waxes as in this video. Turns me on and I'm going to whip-up a batch. Thank you for your clear explanations and Merry Christmas.
Most welcome, and the same to you and yours.
That did it for me! .
Subscribed
I always knew that there was some actual knowledge to be found in TH-cam, and I finally found it. Thanks for sharing it with us.!
You're welcome...and welcome!
I made a pretty cool paste wax where I mixed in colour shifting pigment that's meant to be mixed in with a clear paint, and usually applied via an airbrush. the pigment itself is an extremely fine powder, somewhere between flour and talc.
after a small amount has been mixed into the wax, and stirred until its cool to keep it suspended, it's applied.
the really really cool thing about this particular paste is after its applied and buffed out, the pigment only settles in the micro grooves of the grain. it doesn't settle on the surface of its thoroughly buffed. so all the grain structure is filled with this irradecent, colour shifting tint. it's actually extremely subtle but looks extremely interesting.
I got the colour shifting pigment from Aliexpress and it's very cheap.
Good info; thanks for sharing. Pigmented waxes can be very handing if you're rubbing out the finish on an open-grain wood.
I was looking for an amazing recipe like this for wood and steel. I still need a recipe to apply on leather jacket and boots/shoes! Thanks Mr Gepeto 😘
Man do I have so many different wax mixes. Stuff for finishing, stuff for polishing, stuff for turnings, stuff for flat cabinets. And it all works great! I personally like the oil and wax finish mix. I put it on, wipe down somewhat an hour later, and rub out the next day. Using pure tung or linseed oils as base makes them drying finishes. And polymerized versions of them makes the drying time bearable
Thanks!
Very much appreciate the support. Merry Christmas.
The turpentine shown in the video has a lot of other chemicals besides turpentine. It doesn't even smell right. I make sure to always use what is labeled "pure gum spirits of turpentine". It smells great and works great without the nasty additives. Thanks for all the content, I enjoy your channel.
Hey, Nick... Been following you since I bought my Shopsmith back in '93. Miss the old Shopsmith videos but your more recent ones are great too. Due to the demise of Johnson paste wax, I made up a batch of your standard recipe (although I added a block of camphor). Absolutely great stuff. Cost me around $18 for a pound can-full at today's Amazon prices for the ingredients. That's quit comparable with the prices of competitor waxes and is way more specific to my needs. My Shopsmith is quite happy! Thanks for the video and the recipes!
Glad to have been of help.
Really enjoyed this and subscribed. Hope your other videos are as informative as this one.
Just in passing tho - It's Car-Nah-ba rather than Car-New-ba.
Thank you for sharing this. I'd been some what mystified by this process and you broke it down very clearly.
I've found all videos that I ssen from you are all very helpful. Also you explain in simple detailed explanations to why and ways you use any tip. Keep up the great info
Thanks for the kind words.
Absolute masterclass! I usually use empty hand cream tins and keep my rags inside them, I also melt everything already inside them so I don't have to spill it and they're easy to stack away. I didn't knew about the mixing waxes for different effects, now I'll definitely have to try it! Thank mate, this was legit the best indepth video about this!
Most welcome.
That dog got waxed yesterday and look at him, so shiny.
Another great, educational video!!
This is the best wax video I’ve seen. Really demystifies everything. Next up is to find a source of the microcrystalline wax, I have the others from past attempts.
See www.workshopcompanion.com/affiliate-hardware-materials.html and scroll down.
Boy do I enjoy your content and delivery, thanks so very much 😊
Most welcome.
Wow, absolutely incredible video. Answered all my questions. You remind me of a handyman I once knew, great guy. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experience so freely!
Most welcome.
Hands down THE BEST video on that topic. Thanks a ton!
Most welcome.
See? I’m right. My god, the amount of knowledge you possess.😎🤜🤛👍👍
The only reason I possess all this knowledge is the my publisher was thoughtful enough to give me copies of all the books I wrote. You would be amazed at how often I have to look up something I wrote twenty years ago. A lot of stuff falls through the cracks -- and the cracks get wider each year! :-( But thanks.
@@WorkshopCompanion
(ahem, ahem, … Ok - but then …. )😎👌👍👍
@@johnrice6793 Do you need a cough drop? ;-)
@@WorkshopCompanion maybe yes, maybe no!👍
Hello and thank you for your generosity and sharing the recipe 🙏
Most welcome.
I love the materials science in this video. Splendid job, sir.
Thanks.
I've been making my own paste wax for a short while. Haven't tried other waxes yet since I've got a lot of beeswax. For small batches I use a standard soup can in the boiler having worked on it with pliers to form a pouring lip. Very few drips. The squat Mason Jars are a brilliant idea.
Great lesson Nick. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Most welcome.
Nice Video, thank you for making this
Great Video!. We bought our house from my wife's mom and dad. After watching this video I was thinking that in out closet of clean stuff thre was in old can of wax. Sure enough there is was. Canuba wax (made with pertoleum by products) and scotch bright. it had shrunk a bit but it was in a good can, I got busy on my dining room table that I inherited from my mom who had it made by the Amish in a galaxy far far away.. It defintily too some elbow grease, that old wax was tough, but it looks great, then I got some 600 grit sand paper to clean up some rought spots. and now thoses spots are like glass. Guess I am going to have to polish the whole table now, but going to get some power equiptment for that. I think the shine is just from theremove of umteen years of use. There does appear to be some find of clear coat on the wood as one spot has some sort of chemical reaction as eaten thru the finsh. Questions: Can I revjinate Wax? I was thinking of adding just enough turpinetine to fill in the gap on the out side ring up to the top of the wax which appears to be the amout evaporated, give it a water bath mix and cool. What is that finshing producted used on the table top if you had to take a guess?
Your videos are really good. I always learn a lot with them.
Thanks for saying.
Have you ever lacquered your machine surfaces? I did when I was forced to keep my tablesaw and jointer outdoors(I made them each their own removeable covers out of plywood). One coat would last about a year. Then I would scrape off last years coat, sand with 220&400 grit to a nice shine, put the new layer on. The wooden cover was light enough to lift off each time, and the lacquer fended away the humidity. It worked for 12 years!
A very creative solution to an awful problem. Those tools that I have had to make resistant to moisture, I have blued instead of lacquered. Bluing puts a very thin layer of "black rust" (Fe3O4) on the surface that effectively seals the iron surface and prevents oxygen from reaching the iron crystals beneath the blued layer. This, in turn, prevents red rust (Fe2O3) from forming. It doesn't have to be scraped off, although I do re-apply the bluing chemicals from time to time if I see a little red rust forming.
Ah my friend you have learned me something again and made me laugh too!
Great video! I was looking for elves in the workshop :-)
Just fabulous! Thank you so much for this wonderful video
Most welcome.
Well done here. I’m in the middle of figuring this out. I learned something.
For work surfaces, I recommend using 1 part multicrystalline and 3 parts carnauba melted in 3 parts turpentine, it'll make a nice coat that's easily applied (especially with a machine, and if you're routinely waxing tables, you *should* use a power tool) but also hard when done and sort of "heals" itself - as in, you may notice a scratch after doing some work, and the next day, it's just gone. This "self-healing" seems to persist until the coat is so thin you see bald patches on your table.
This is great to know, thanks for sharing. I just have to find a source for the microcrystaline wax (assuming that’s the same as the ‘multi’ you typed)
You always have great information!!! Thank you for these great videos!!
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Brilliant video 👏
Great advice, I have always stayed away from wax, guess I have been wrong, thank you.
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Excellent tips. Deserves more views.
Agreed.
Explains a lot of my questions...thanks
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What a great video. I watch you Americans use wax paste on everything but we can't get it here in Australia. Ive been making my own cutting board conditioner for ages now so can now make paste wax. Thanks!
What about Gilly's? (Gilly-Stephenson is based in western Australia.) I've used their Carnauba Polish and think it's a fine blend of carnauba and beeswax. I haven't tried their Cabinetmaker's Polish, which sounds like a reverse blend -- more beeswax than carnauba -- but my experience tells me that too could work well. As for working wood without paste wax, I shudder to think of it. The only thing more important in my shop are my border collies. Glad to have been of help in your crisis.
@@WorkshopCompanion Ive not heard of Gillys. Ill check them out thanks for that!
Very helpful video. Thanks for sharing the tips. Can the food safe one be used on machine surfaces too?
Great video, like all I have seen by you, thanks for all!
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Excellent explanation, thank you!
I make my own wax for about 8yrs now. I use the shallow bowl/cup the American Chinese food comes in works great... Think "wonton soup"... Cheerio...
Thanks, Nick, for the recipes!
Thanks for your interest.
Impressive video. So informative.
Brilliant tips and advice!
You are an excellent teacher. Makes me want to work with wood lol. Tho I have neither means nor the stamina but its fun to watch
As always super informative
Thanks.
Very good share, thank you.
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Very helpful and useful video.
Thanks.
Wonderful
Nick, you think of everything.
Thanks, but it's not all me. Travis' camerawork and editing make it look like I've got it together.
Very informative video..sir..thnx.. much appreciated
Most welcome.
Can you do a comparison vs this wax mix vs Rudy’s original? Confused on which I should use for a table I built. Thanks!
Thank you from a australia
Cheers from Ohio.
I think you need that screw eye to hold onto that waxed hammer handle. Great video. Thanks.
I love the clock in the background. Any chance you have the plans for sale? Great video!!
workshopcompanionstore.com/products/infinity-cube-clock-plan
you totally can heat them in a microwave! Bang on regarding the info on microwaves so I don't know where the moisture comes from, maybe the air? Which then heats the container enough that it eventually gets hot enough to melt the waxes. I used a pyrex measuring cup and it took about 4 mins to heat up a total of around 6 fl ounces.
Tip: take a bamboo skewer or other long, skinny object and hold it against the top of the container, then pour *down* the skewer. The surface tension that makes the liquid cling to the container and run down to the bottom, will instead make it run down the object. No spill!
If you hold a stick, something like a chopstick, across the top of the can holding the warmed wax, it will pour without dripping. The stick should be a few inches longer than the diameter of the can so the wax can follow it down to the container you are pouring into and it won't drip. It's a little hard to hold the stick in place but doable.
Thank you
Most welcome.
Love it!
another tip
you can use ethanol 96% or linseed oil or other seed oil as solvent
you need to mix it week while warm but can be done
the alcohol one will dry fast but can be used in a rush
Do you have model #/weight size and where can I buy your scale? Also, you sell plans for the table/cabinet that is behind you on this video?
Any help will be greatly appreciated. Richard from Cibolo TX.
Fantastic video!
Just recently found your channel. Thank you! I mostly do scroll saw fret work and have been wondering about using the warm mixture to dip the piece in order to get full coverage of all the nooks and crannies. Any idea if that would work?
With finish, yes. But with wax? I think you would be creating a lot of unnecessary work trying to buff out the hardened wax in all the crevices.
Hint : use a can opener to remove the lip of your tins if you are going to pour liquid .
Perhaps an old soup ladle, never again to be used in the kitchen, could help transfer the liquid wax to the container?
I made up a batch of NIXWAX using boiled linseed oil instead of turpentine or mineral oil. It came out super sticky. I could probably use it as a glue stick! Can you make a recommendation for what to add to harden it up a bit? I'm thinking I should add more carnauba wax or paraffin - or maybe linseed oil - but I don't want to start "chasing" the right admixture. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
4:50 The use of a breadboard caused a double take. I use a different kind of breadboard in my other kind of project builds.