Cheap ECHO CS-440 Chainsaw With Running Issues - Questionable Fuel Mix Color

I saw this ECHO CS-440 listed for a suspiciously low $40 and decided to take a chance on it. Let's see if I got a good deal or if it's completely worn out
Walbro WT-710 Carb Kit: D10-WAT or K10-WAT
Fuel Filter: Walbro 125-527 (Walbro 125-528 is correct)
Air Filter: Stens 605-319
questionable two stroke mix color, straight gas, Walbro WT-710, carburetor cleaning, carburetor kit, carburetor rebuild, carburetor gasket and diaphragm kit, new fuel filter, new fuel lines, remove carburetor limiter caps, air filter, testing
#smallengine #smallenginerepair #repair #troubleshooting #echo #chainsaw
Music from #InAudio: inaudio.org/
Infraction - All Mine (vlog lo-fi).

[@timothymilam732]

I've always found that if you run the mixture screws all the way in till they just stop, and then come our 1.5 turns that's a good base setting for starting.
The adjust by quarter turns outward until it smoothes out, and revs freely.
Occasionally you'll might find one that requires less on the low side, but that's not the norm.
Generally 1.5 to 2 or 2.25 is usually the closest without actually using a tachometer to fine tune it.
But everyone is different especially in cold weather as you're definitely working in from the white stuff all around.
Something I might mention that I noticed on the nomelite video, is that when you were cutting the block of wood.
Going through a block of wood in the direction you were actually ripping, is typically the most difficult way for a chainsaw to cut.
So thst said, your saw was actually working harder than it normally would be.
I've also found that even though you have a brand new chain doesn't necessarily mean that it's a sharp chain, and it never hurts to touch it up with a new file just for good measure.
Just a couple of things I've learned over the years that I've picked up from the old men that used saws for either a living, are endless cords of firewood for their home heating.

[@BackyardRepairs]

Really appreciate you sharing all this information. It definitely helps me (and anyone reading) get better at this repair stuff!

[@EastinColl]

Nice grab.
I picked up a CS400 the other day for $40 as well. Almost looks new.
I kid you not, only issue was the air filter was so dirty, it couldn't breath.
Swapped it, and she's good as new.

[@MotoLife541]

great deal just picked one up for 75$. Always check your clutch drum when buying a used saw, they usually need to be replaced unless you know the saw has low hours. Nothing worse than ruining a new chain on a worn out drum.

[@MotoLife541]

The first thing i do when buy a used saw is remove the muffler and visually inspect the piston. Saves alot of time and headaches.

[@BackyardRepairs]

great tip, thanks!

[@gregmccarter2176]

The fuel you took out had water in it..I have a 440..and a 444 I bought cheap....the both run like Champs..I use them all the time..the 440 is a good saw..

[@peteschiavoni]

I like the 440. Great deal for sure

[@thereeljahjah]

Great video with lots of excellent info.. The rocker arm you checked with the gauge? Oh boy. This is over my head. Feel like elaborating?
Also can you explain your technique for the tuning?

[@BackyardRepairs]

thanks! I'll try to explain my understanding the best I can lol, maybe this deserves a little more explanation in a future video.
The rocker arm I mentioned links the movement of the carb needle and center "button tip" of the metering diaphragm. When the equipment is running the engine vacuum will pull the fuel from that area and also on the metering diaphragm which in turn pulls the needle up (this is why it's important that it's flexible). The faster the engine is running (more vacuum) the more the diaphragm deflects and allows more fuel past the needle, through that area of the carb, and into the engine. Since they need to work together, the arm position needs to be checked using a calibration gage (Walbro p/n 500-13 on this one if you want to see what it looks like) when the carb get's rebuilt to ensure nothing got bumped out of spec. This makes sure the metering diaphragm is not too close (or too far away) from the rocker arm for the needle to move correctly and supply fuel to run the machine.
As for tuning.. I typically tune by ear initially and carry a screwdriver to tweak the first couple times I use them to dial it in. Adjust the Low screw until the engine runs at it's fastest, then richen it up about 1/8 turn. From there adjust the idle speed so the attachment isn't spinning. Then adjust the High screw while at full throttle to run at the point just before the engine "four-strokes". Some manufacturers give RPM ranges for full throttle and idle but that requires a tachometer that most don't have, so I try to do it by ear and show that against the changes in engine sound.