That's really encouraging to hear. Thank you so much! Unfortunately, about 99% of viewers don't watch more than a minute or two, they don't rate the videos with a like, and they don't leave a comment. The algorithms read that as, "not interesting/not appealing/not worth watching" so the videos aren't put into people's feeds, or promoted in any other way, nor is the channel.
After viewing your repairs and adjustments on this saw it has certainly been extremely helpful with my repairs on my CS 341. You obviously take pride in your work and the viewers can certainly benefit greatly with your expertise. Thank w
Well deserved compliments for your work! I particularly found it interesting how you inspected the Reed valve and clearly discovered that wood chips were not allowing the valve to work correctly. I definitely need to check that on mine. They do have a tendency to draw in saw dust if proper maintenance is neglected. Great tips!
Very common for these to pull in debris, and suck it through the carburetor into the reed. They're a fiddly little saw to work on because of how everything is packed down into that plastic box area.
What is theory behind the coiled fuel line design? I noticed Husqvarna has used this type of design over the years, but only on a select few tools. This is the first time I've seen one used in an Echo fuel tank. In a pinch, can one substitute the normal uncoiled fuel line with a coiled one that is specified?
I don't know why they, or Husqvarna do the coiled fuel lines, and as you point out, it's only in certain saws. Yes, you can just use the straight Echo fuel line, but you'll have to source an outer diameter that will seal off, where it passes through the rubber grommet. I've successfully done it a few times, in order to get a saw that was needed, back out into the field.
I’m having what seems to be flooding problems and I’m thinking that it’s either the Reed valve as your video indicates or possibly the fuel tank vent not properly venting. I’m assuming that the vent is located somewhere in the area near the flywheel under the starter cover maybe?
In diagnostics, always start with the basics (the most simple solution) and work toward the more complex. So prove spark, and prove compression. And just because you have spark in the Lisle tester that you seem me frequently use in my videos, and have spark from a spark plug that's outside the cylinder, does not mean that you have spark with the spark plug installed, under the "squeeze" of compression. The spark test also doesn't prove timing, and ignition coils can fail, so they'll produce spark, but not at the correct time... and of course, air gap between the coil poles and the flywheel magnets is also key. Re: your question about the fuel tank vent, a non-functional vent (either blocked and not venting, or the one-way function no longer works, won't flood an engine during starting. If the vent is blocked, the engine will start and run fine, but die in X amount of time, depending on level of fuel in the tank, because no air is getting into the tank to replace the volume of fuel used by the engine... so fuel stops flowing. Loosening the cap is the temporary cure and test, because the saw will start back up (with the cap re-tightened, of course) and then die in the same amount of time. A blocked vent will typically cause fuel pressure in the tank to eventually over pressure the tiny spring on the carb metering needle, and fuel will syphon from the tank up into the carb throat, and then run out into the air filter, and into the engine crankcase, creating dripping from the filter, and usually from the muffler, and of course, the saw will be very flooded, and possibly hydro-locked, so it can't even be pulled over. It's not uncommon for these saws to never get the starter assembly removed, and the internals of the saw thoroughly cleaned out, either by pressure washing (from a reasonable distance) or using compressed air and a powerful gun. So they fill up with oily sawdust, blocking air flow through the starter assembly over the cylinder and crankcase, and this eventually causes crankcase pan seal failure, and crankshaft seal failure due to overheating when in use. This is magnified when the saws are run with dull chain, used has hedge and brush trimmers, and used to cut wood much larger than they are built to handle. All of this is death of the saw, due to the high engine heat. Good luck with it.
I don't know what algorithms aren't lining up, for views,.....but this man's small engine skills are incredible....Thank you again
That's really encouraging to hear. Thank you so much!
Unfortunately, about 99% of viewers don't watch more than a minute or two, they don't rate the videos with a like, and they don't leave a comment. The algorithms read that as, "not interesting/not appealing/not worth watching" so the videos aren't put into people's feeds, or promoted in any other way, nor is the channel.
Extremely thorough explanation of the process to get this saw running well again. Thanks this is has been super helpful.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for the kind words!!
After viewing your repairs and adjustments on this saw it has certainly been extremely helpful with my repairs on my CS 341.
You obviously take pride in your work and the viewers can certainly benefit greatly with your expertise. Thank w
Wow! You made my day! Thank you for the kind words, and I'm glad the video was helpful.
Well deserved compliments for your work! I particularly found it interesting how you inspected the Reed valve and clearly discovered that wood chips were not allowing the valve to work correctly. I definitely need to check that on mine. They do have a tendency to draw in saw dust if proper maintenance is neglected. Great tips!
Very common for these to pull in debris, and suck it through the carburetor into the reed. They're a fiddly little saw to work on because of how everything is packed down into that plastic box area.
@@austinado16 so very true!
What is theory behind the coiled fuel line design? I noticed Husqvarna has used this type of design over the years, but only on a select few tools. This is the first time I've seen one used in an Echo fuel tank. In a pinch, can one substitute the normal uncoiled fuel line with a coiled one that is specified?
I don't know why they, or Husqvarna do the coiled fuel lines, and as you point out, it's only in certain saws.
Yes, you can just use the straight Echo fuel line, but you'll have to source an outer diameter that will seal off, where it passes through the rubber grommet. I've successfully done it a few times, in order to get a saw that was needed, back out into the field.
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I’m having what seems to be flooding problems and I’m thinking that it’s either the Reed valve as your video indicates or possibly the fuel tank vent not properly venting. I’m assuming that the vent is located somewhere in the area near the flywheel under the starter cover maybe?
In diagnostics, always start with the basics (the most simple solution) and work toward the more complex.
So prove spark, and prove compression. And just because you have spark in the Lisle tester that you seem me frequently use in my videos, and have spark from a spark plug that's outside the cylinder, does not mean that you have spark with the spark plug installed, under the "squeeze" of compression. The spark test also doesn't prove timing, and ignition coils can fail, so they'll produce spark, but not at the correct time... and of course, air gap between the coil poles and the flywheel magnets is also key.
Re: your question about the fuel tank vent, a non-functional vent (either blocked and not venting, or the one-way function no longer works, won't flood an engine during starting. If the vent is blocked, the engine will start and run fine, but die in X amount of time, depending on level of fuel in the tank, because no air is getting into the tank to replace the volume of fuel used by the engine... so fuel stops flowing. Loosening the cap is the temporary cure and test, because the saw will start back up (with the cap re-tightened, of course) and then die in the same amount of time. A blocked vent will typically cause fuel pressure in the tank to eventually over pressure the tiny spring on the carb metering needle, and fuel will syphon from the tank up into the carb throat, and then run out into the air filter, and into the engine crankcase, creating dripping from the filter, and usually from the muffler, and of course, the saw will be very flooded, and possibly hydro-locked, so it can't even be pulled over.
It's not uncommon for these saws to never get the starter assembly removed, and the internals of the saw thoroughly cleaned out, either by pressure washing (from a reasonable distance) or using compressed air and a powerful gun. So they fill up with oily sawdust, blocking air flow through the starter assembly over the cylinder and crankcase, and this eventually causes crankcase pan seal failure, and crankshaft seal failure due to overheating when in use. This is magnified when the saws are run with dull chain, used has hedge and brush trimmers, and used to cut wood much larger than they are built to handle. All of this is death of the saw, due to the high engine heat.
Good luck with it.