I have that same sentry safe, model SB 0500. It is cased (trimmed out with wood) in a cabinet very similar to yours. My safe will open, but the handle stopped going back up to the lock position. The batteries were good, but I changed them out with new ones (exp. Date 2031) just to be sure. Any ideas on how to get the handle to raise/spring back up to the locked position? I appreciate your video about bolting it down. Mark R.
Raymond - as you know these are designed to be bolted down to concrete or wood floor. Too hard on my knees to get down that low so I found a closet where it fit. There is a very thick shelf and the bolts do not penetrate to the drawer below. Your way would work though. Thanks.
Valid question. This is an older model safe and the mounting instructions do not address the issue. I have noticed on more recent safes that the mounting points have a gasket system that they claim will maintain the fire rating.
Jake if you are referring to plastic wall anchors - no I did not need to use those as I was drilling down into a couple inches of solid wood. The safe is really meant to be anchored into concrete floor but that is a bit too hard on my knees to get down that low to take things in and out.
Trash - you are absolutely correct. Diminishes both fire and smoke protection. A trade off for enhanced theft protection. Other option is to get a much bigger safe that can’t be carried away. My antique safe in one of my videos weighs a ton. Thanks for watching.
@@ScottUrbach I think my new idea is I'm just gonna get a small fireproof lock box and put it in a safe. I wish I knew how to weld stuff I'd try to make my own safe.
Robert you have a valid point. Would take quite a bit of effort and they would have to defeat four other layers of security to do it. Thanks for watching
Exactly. It is even easier if the cabinet is made of melamine particle board. Even if a fascade were placed in front of the safe, a thief could tell that a heavy object was dragged into position by seeing the gouged wood and missing paint as tell tail signs that a safe was behind it.
That went fairly smooth.
Yeah surprised me too! Thanks for watching.
I have that same sentry safe, model SB 0500. It is cased (trimmed out with wood) in a cabinet very similar to yours. My safe will open, but the handle stopped going back up to the lock position. The batteries were good, but I changed them out with new ones (exp. Date 2031) just to be sure. Any ideas on how to get the handle to raise/spring back up to the locked position? I appreciate your video about bolting it down. Mark R.
This video was helpful. Thank You.
You're welcome!
Great job. 👍
Thanks 👍
Does the safe come with the bolts?
Yes most safes come with the proper kit to secure it to floor, wall, etc.
Personally I would have used long carriage bolts going up into the safe floor and secured with lock nuts inside the safe.
Raymond - as you know these are designed to be bolted down to concrete or wood floor. Too hard on my knees to get down that low so I found a closet where it fit. There is a very thick shelf and the bolts do not penetrate to the drawer below. Your way would work though. Thanks.
Good video ! I was wondering - what about fire safe .... will bolts (Metal) from outside going inside mess with fire-proof?? ThNks.
Valid question. This is an older model safe and the mounting instructions do not address the issue. I have noticed on more recent safes that the mounting points have a gasket system that they claim will maintain the fire rating.
Did you use the plastic pieces to to fit into the drill holes and put the bolts into?
Jake if you are referring to plastic wall anchors - no I did not need to use those as I was drilling down into a couple inches of solid wood. The safe is really meant to be anchored into concrete floor but that is a bit too hard on my knees to get down that low to take things in and out.
Asking for eye issues blowing metal shavings around like that.
Always smart to wear eye protection! Thanks for watching.
The issue is now it's not fireproof anymore. Damned shame they dont make these able to have a chain linked to it
Trash - you are absolutely correct. Diminishes both fire and smoke protection. A trade off for enhanced theft protection. Other option is to get a much bigger safe that can’t be carried away. My antique safe in one of my videos weighs a ton. Thanks for watching.
@@ScottUrbach I think my new idea is I'm just gonna get a small fireproof lock box and put it in a safe. I wish I knew how to weld stuff I'd try to make my own safe.
You can get waterproof and fire proof document bags. If you live in a community with a good fire department you are probably safe.
@@JimWinBR ive seen tests of the fireproof bags, they don't hold up too well
👍
Thanks for watching William
Mate I see a thief with a crow bar taking that cabinet apart and walking away with the safe there meant to be anchored to a concrete floor
Robert you have a valid point. Would take quite a bit of effort and they would have to defeat four other layers of security to do it. Thanks for watching
Exactly. It is even easier if the cabinet is made of melamine particle board. Even if a fascade were placed in front of the safe, a thief could tell that a heavy object was dragged into position by seeing the gouged wood and missing paint as tell tail signs that a safe was behind it.
Hadn't thought about someone walking away with it. I need to get one of these!
You definitely do!
Ya dig
That drill went through a little to easily
Yeah I was a bit surprised. Thanks for watching.