Should be noted if you live in wet area and your basement floor is only 4" thick do not drill thru the cement as the hole could be a pressure relief for water.
Use a very large heavy washers to prevent the rods or bolts from pulling through the bottom of the safe and use a waterproof sealer to keep the water out. I moved a safe a few years ago that we didn't even know was bolted down since the bolts easily pulled right through the floor.
I have a question: I just purchased a Gardall safe and I have a wooden floor. You said that lag screws are an option. The safe has 4 holes on the bottom that are 5/8th wide. I couldn’t find 5/8th thick lag screws but I was able to find 5/8th thick bolts. The bolts have finer threading. Can I use the bolts instead? Secondly, do 5/8th lag screws actually exist? Thanks so much
Probably best to bolt through the supporting timbers. If not, built a frame of very strong timber and install that underneath the floor and use nuts and bolts, but be sure to bolt from under and secure the frame you’ve made in the structure of the house.
Drake - I would cut the carpet to the proper dimension (under the safe) and remove it to expose the concrete. If that is not possible, use a different drill bit to drill the fibrous carpet then switch to the masonry/concrete drill bit for the concrete. Hope this helps.
Cutting hinges off a safe has not worked for 300 years! But lucky for me useless clowns still try it! Look up 'dog bolt'. Also you can see it at 0.32. The purpose of a hinge on a safe is so the door does not fall on your feet when it opens. It has absolutely nothing to do with security. How do I know? I a professional safe cracker. Keep cutting those hinges off big boy, it just earns me more money.
Grind flat to concrete or below the surface and do a concrete repair. Or sell the safe with the house and buy a new one for the next house. Horrible idea not to bolt down the safe. Also there is no head of the bolt when using all thread. It is literally all thread...
As mentioned above, with these rods, if you want to move the safe, you are stuck with stubs sticking up that you now have to lift the safe over to remove. Not easy. You can not grind those off until the safe is gone.
Should be noted if you live in wet area and your basement floor is only 4" thick do not drill thru the cement as the hole could be a pressure relief for water.
Use a very large heavy washers to prevent the rods or bolts from pulling through the bottom of the safe and use a waterproof sealer to keep the water out. I moved a safe a few years ago that we didn't even know was bolted down since the bolts easily pulled right through the floor.
showing is the washer and bolt/nut install that attached to the rods would make this video complete, without this it's incomplete.
Really?, if you need to see him place a washer and nut over the stud and tighten down, you need to hire this job out.
i like the threaded rod idea , thanks
how smug would you look removing the safe from the sticking out rods? if you ever have to move it
lets say one that weighs over 1500lbs
i
Would have been better if you had shown all of the actual work. Not just talked about it.
can you make a video of using he epoxy with the threaded rod?
Any concerns about plumbing or post tension cables when you drill a slab?
Ira Nicodemus
you can scan the floor
Any answer on this?
I have a question: I just purchased a Gardall safe and I have a wooden floor. You said that lag screws are an option. The safe has 4 holes on the bottom that are 5/8th wide. I couldn’t find 5/8th thick lag screws but I was able to find 5/8th thick bolts. The bolts have finer threading. Can I use the bolts instead? Secondly, do 5/8th lag screws actually exist? Thanks so much
Like your new opening.
Excellent video..Thank you
with your method if you ever need to move the safe you have to lift it over the top of those threaded rods. That would not be fun.
If you drill deep enough. When you do need to move it just hammer the studs down flush with the floor.
@@edwardgutierrez7083, with that epoxy holding them in place?
Lookin pretty young there Matt!😉
what about tension cables?
What about securing safe in home UPSTAIRS!!!!
Probably best to bolt through the supporting timbers. If not, built a frame of very strong timber and install that underneath the floor and use nuts and bolts, but be sure to bolt from under and secure the frame you’ve made in the structure of the house.
I live in a house with radient heat can't go into slab Can't you attach to the wall?
Totally can. Just a bit easier to extract should a persistent thief find your safe
@@buildshow
How would you attach to the wall, when the bolt holes are in the bottom of the safe? I'm very interested in this.
What about if you have carpet everywhere?
Drake - I would cut the carpet to the proper dimension (under the safe) and remove it to expose the concrete. If that is not possible, use a different drill bit to drill the fibrous carpet then switch to the masonry/concrete drill bit for the concrete. Hope this helps.
"I'm gonna show you the best way to secure your safe!"
Doesn't show us...
Very expensive good looking safe made by Brown Safe Co. It looks like a 6024 Estate series with no fire protection.
Safe should be in Corner of room..
Just tossing this out there. Put epoxy on the base as well as down the hole.
If they want it. There taking the basement with them.
Mine works too. I used woodprix plans and made it without any problems.
best
0:15 this is really shitty safe. look at those hinges. i cut them with angle grinder and the door will fall. what a joke...
Cutting hinges off a safe has not worked for 300 years! But lucky for me useless clowns still try it! Look up 'dog bolt'. Also you can see it at 0.32. The purpose of a hinge on a safe is so the door does not fall on your feet when it opens. It has absolutely nothing to do with security. How do I know? I a professional safe cracker. Keep cutting those hinges off big boy, it just earns me more money.
@@safecracker ok. thanks for the info big bad boy
@@safecracker do you recommend any brands?
What happens when you move houses and the head of the bolt is gone and glued in......horrible idea
Grind flat to concrete or below the surface and do a concrete repair. Or sell the safe with the house and buy a new one for the next house. Horrible idea not to bolt down the safe.
Also there is no head of the bolt when using all thread. It is literally all thread...
@@dennispope8160 I never said not to bolt down a safe....reading comprehension guy
SVT iwin...but there are no heads.
As mentioned above, with these rods, if you want to move the safe, you are stuck with stubs sticking up that you now have to lift the safe over to remove. Not easy. You can not grind those off until the safe is gone.
@@alanaldpal950 tilt cut gone
You could have been more detailed on installing it. Do this do that doesn't show how to do it.