@@jjmcwill1881 the amount of bearings on the top race is always different from bottom race. If u put top bearings in a separate container than u will know how many goes back into top race during reassembly otherwise u are just guessing. It probably doesn't really matter but sometimes I'm OCD lol
it is recommended by the manufacturers to leave a gap on the bearing, basically remove at least 1-2 bearings on the bottom and 2-3 on the top, to give a free coasting without any bearing collision. Notice on the end, the freewheel moves like it's stuck it should move smoothly.
If you're going from a caged loose ball setup to balls without a cage, then yes, you fill the bearing completly and then remove one. Like for like? Same number as was there...
It's recommended by manufacturers to not put the bearings back in after disassembly. These aren't really meant to be serviced so don't try to put the ball bearings back in. If you watch towards the end you'll notice the freewheel doesn't move well. What he should have done is just put some mustard instead of the bearings and seal it up. Sounds silly but that's what Shimano recommends, I know the CEO personally he's a good friend and he told me that.
Does somebody know, what size steel balls are used in the MF Z012 freehub? And How many on Top and Bottom (as asked in another commend already) Thanks PS: Thanks for the nice and very usefull video :)
the only thing I see on the freewheel is Suntour - Japan and it is a 7 speed. The bicycle is very old and been sitting inside the garage for about 10 years and I been riding it for the past 4-5 years.
I use normal expensive good quality lube for bearings, if everything is fine you don’t need periodically service, but however riding in difficult conditions should be done once a year vmbefore the season
@@lonerbikes - and what do you consider to be "normal expensive good quality lube for bearings". You use two lubes in the video, one white, one red. What are they...? Who makes them...? .
Do u have a video for Shimano MF-HG20 freewheel total teardown? I want to remove the lockring in order to remove all the cogs individually and clean. The tool is next to impossible to find, thank u
not sure what model that is but it can either be locked by the smallest cog (threaded) in that case use 2 chain tools, or if it's got a locking ring use either a screwdriver and whack that shit with a hammer or use retaining ring pliers depending on the style.
You probably got too much grease onto the freewheel pawls. You should only put very thin grease on those, or even oil. With grease on the pawls you risk that they might start sticking. So it's not breaking anything, but your freewheel might spontaneously stop working properly, until you fix that issue. In the video you can see that a different paste was used on the pawls, vs. the grease used for the bearings.
Według mnie nie powinno się mieszać smarów w tak bliskiej i otwartej odległości. Ja bym dał ten łożyskowy na te trybiki i z bani, bo akurat dzisiaj też rozbierałem wolnobieg i smar z dolnej i górnej części przeskoczył. Tzn. przy skręcaniu wolnobiegu nadmiar idzie bokiem nakrętką i przy okazji na te trybiki.
You have right, in older freewheels, dirty with rust when stay in outside long time is rly hard to get of, for the purposes of the film, I loosened the cap earlier, you can use a punch and a hammer, it is shown in my other film, Regards
@1:27 Beginners should use two tubs...One tub for upper bearings and one tub for lower bearings...That way u know how many bearings per area...
Good idea. Just did that and it worked a treat.
Explain
@@jjmcwill1881 the amount of bearings on the top race is always different from bottom race. If u put top bearings in a separate container than u will know how many goes back into top race during reassembly otherwise u are just guessing. It probably doesn't really matter but sometimes I'm OCD lol
Also, I think the upper and lower bearings would wear differently so important to keep them separate, don't mix them up together.
it is recommended by the manufacturers to leave a gap on the bearing, basically remove at least 1-2 bearings on the bottom and 2-3 on the top, to give a free coasting without any bearing collision. Notice on the end, the freewheel moves like it's stuck it should move smoothly.
If that is true, does it mean that manufacturers sometimes put in too many bearings when they sell them?
If you're going from a caged loose ball setup to balls without a cage, then yes, you fill the bearing completly and then remove one.
Like for like? Same number as was there...
LoL remove bearings? It doesn't yet spin freely because it's been freshly greased.
Your advice is terrible
It's recommended by manufacturers to not put the bearings back in after disassembly. These aren't really meant to be serviced so don't try to put the ball bearings back in. If you watch towards the end you'll notice the freewheel doesn't move well. What he should have done is just put some mustard instead of the bearings and seal it up. Sounds silly but that's what Shimano recommends, I know the CEO personally he's a good friend and he told me that.
@@jtnoodleagreed 😊
Nice! Thanks for the video
Glad to hear it
Thanks 🙂
I have mf-tz21 could you plz tell me how many balls should put on top & bottom?
i cant remove lock ring on bearing....coz its has another lock ring, and i dont have i dea what tools should i need
Does somebody know, what size steel balls are used in the MF Z012 freehub? And How many on Top and Bottom (as asked in another commend already)
Thanks
PS: Thanks for the nice and very usefull video :)
enjoy !
I have a similar shimano freewheel and the hub is very stuck, where I can get that tweezer like tool and the socket to do the job? Thanks.
the only thing I see on the freewheel is Suntour - Japan and it is a 7 speed. The bicycle is very old and been sitting inside the garage for about 10 years and I been riding it for the past 4-5 years.
Very useful vdo.
Thx very good beo
Ferfect video!
Thanks bro
What were you using for lubricants...? Do they remain on the surfaces long term (i.e. years) or do you need to relube the cassette periodically....?
I use normal expensive good quality lube for bearings, if everything is fine you don’t need periodically service, but however riding in difficult conditions should be done once a year vmbefore the season
@@lonerbikes - and what do you consider to be "normal expensive good quality lube for bearings". You use two lubes in the video, one white, one red. What are they...? Who makes them...?
.
@@GlennMarshallRocks bearings lube and shimano freehub grease
@@lonerbikes - Great... Thank You... ;-)
whats the white thing? il the red is grease but whats the white
Do u have a video for Shimano MF-HG20 freewheel total teardown? I want to remove the lockring in order to remove all the cogs individually and clean. The tool is next to impossible to find, thank u
not sure what model that is but it can either be locked by the smallest cog (threaded) in that case use 2 chain tools, or if it's got a locking ring use either a screwdriver and whack that shit with a hammer or use retaining ring pliers depending on the style.
I don't bother doing this as the freewheel only lasts me a year or 2000 miles commuting to work daily a new chain needs a new freewheel.
my freewheel completely gone silent after a service. now i dont hear any click. is that a problem ? bike rides fine
the soft brag is not soft at all bro
You probably got too much grease onto the freewheel pawls. You should only put very thin grease on those, or even oil. With grease on the pawls you risk that they might start sticking. So it's not breaking anything, but your freewheel might spontaneously stop working properly, until you fix that issue. In the video you can see that a different paste was used on the pawls, vs. the grease used for the bearings.
Nice
Thanks 😊
amazing
Według mnie nie powinno się mieszać smarów w tak bliskiej i otwartej odległości. Ja bym dał ten łożyskowy na te trybiki i z bani, bo akurat dzisiaj też rozbierałem wolnobieg i smar z dolnej i górnej części przeskoczył. Tzn. przy skręcaniu wolnobiegu nadmiar idzie bokiem nakrętką i przy okazji na te trybiki.
zgadzam sie ze smaru jest troche za dużo, ale mimo wszystko zostaje przy roznych smarach na bieznie i zapadki
@@lonerbikes A możesz powiedzieć jakie to smary (ten czerwony i biały) oraz czym myłeś te elementy - dzięki.
Am I the only one, who sees only 6 cogs (not 7 as in the video description) ?
Not as easy to do as you show it especially in older one they don't screw off that easy they get stuck and they're very hard to get off
You have right, in older freewheels, dirty with rust when stay in outside long time is rly hard to get of, for the purposes of the film, I loosened the cap earlier, you can use a punch and a hammer, it is shown in my other film,
Regards
❤❤❤👍👍👍
It's a Sunrace freewheel
problably yes
tq bhai
Lasputev mierta
Loose Balls Rule...
Zbyt lepki smar. Niepotrzebnie.
masz racje, lepiej użyć go troche mniej
dałem go wiecej z uwagi na wiek wolnobiegu, mimo to wszystko działało poprawnie