Thank you so much for your kind words! I’m really glad you enjoyed the video, and I appreciate your feedback. It means a lot to know that it stood out to you. I’m always striving to improve and provide the best content, so your support is truly appreciated!🙂
Hi, thanks a lot for the compliment! I'm glad you found the explanation helpful. If you have any more questions or need further clarification, feel free to ask!🙂
Thanks so much for the kind words! I’m glad the explanation helped with your freehub replacement. It’s great to hear that Shimano’s website was also useful for you. If you have any more questions or need further tips, don’t hesitate to ask! 🚴♂️
enfin une video digne de ce nom, je viens de dévisser le corps de roue libre j'ai cru que je n'y arriverait jamais tellement c'était serré, j'ai dû prendre un levier, et c'était encore très très dur...great video thank you
Thank you for your comment! I'm really glad the video helped you. I totally understand the frustration when a freehub body is super tight - sometimes you just have to get creative with leverage to break that initial resistance. But it's great to hear you got it done! Thanks again for watching and I'm happy the tutorial was useful to you!🙂
Thank you so much! I'm really glad you enjoyed the video. A warm greeting from Manchester, UK🇬🇧 right back to you in Italy-such a beautiful country! 😊🚴♂️
Thank you! I'm really glad you found the slower motion helpful. I try to highlight the key moments so it’s easier to follow along, especially when it comes to important details. Your feedback is much appreciated, and I’ll definitely keep that in mind for future videos. Happy cycling! 🚴♂️😊
Hi, and thanks for your great comment.🙏 I'm glad you found the video useful! It's great to know that the method for finding the correct replacement was helpful to you. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask.🙂
Great video. I remember once trying to "service" a Shimano free hub body. It definitely came apart, and best I remember there were immediately about 10,500 TINY bearings EVERYWHERE. Believe it or not, I found them all and managed to get them packed back in (both sides!) and finished the service. Moral of the story (for me anyway) was the main hub bearings are easy to service - the freehub body, not so much. Probably easier to either squirt some lube in there from the outside, or just replace it!
Hi, and thanks for your comment. I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Your experience with servicing a Shimano freehub body definitely sounds like quite the adventure. Kudos to you for managing to get them all packed back in and successfully finishing the service. Yes, I agrre with you, make your life easier and just replace the freehub. Especially that they are not that expensive.
Hey Rob! Thanks so much for the generous $2!🙏 I'm glad that you found my video helpful. Your support means a lot and helps me to create more content like this. If you have any questions or need further assistance, feel free to reach out.
Thank you so much for the kind words! I’m really glad you found the "how to find the part" section useful. It’s great to hear that the video was helpful to you-thanks for watching! 😊
Hi, and thanks very much for your kind words! I'm delighted to hear that you found the tutorial helpful and enjoyed the content. If you have any suggestions for future videos or any questions, feel free to let me know. Your support means a lot! ❤️
Yes, the process is similar, but you've inspired me with a great idea to create a video specifically addressing the replacement of the freehub body on thru axle wheels. 😊
Man, this as saved so much time & money. Normally I would be very lazy and purchase another wheel (twice I have done this), however after viewing this, a urica moment. I should be ablt to do this. took my time, all in all it took me an hour. Bravo, excellent tutorial. Thank you Sir. :o)... oh Subscripe to you 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Thank you so much and I'm sorry for not being able to reply to you sooner! I’m really glad the video helped you save both time and money. It’s awesome to hear you had that "eureka" moment and tackled it yourself. An hour well spent! Thanks for the subscription too-really appreciate the support! 👏🏾😊
I got a 1990ish bike that I’m fully restoring; one step is to replace the 7-speed body from a Shimano Parallax M563 body to one for 8-speed. After a year I finally got my hands on such 8/10-speed body and currently in the process of following these steps, but I’ve a question: the original assembly has a washer between the body and the wheel that is depressed in a circular ridge, this such washer is different to the one shown in 6:58, and the replacement body I got does include a washer exactly like the one in the video. My question is whether should I use both washers or only the one already in the wheel? I understand this will determine the spacing from the body and the spokes; but my logic (and ignorance) tell me that if the previous body didn’t need 2 washers the new one should not need them either. I appreciate any help, thank you in advance.
Hi, thanks for your comment and apologies for not being able to reply to you sooner. It sounds like you're on the right track with your restoration, and I can see how this part might be a bit tricky! From what you're describing, the washer that’s included with the new 8/10-speed freehub body is likely designed to fit the new body and ensure proper alignment with the wheel. If the original assembly had a washer that was depressed in a circular ridge, that may have been specific to the 7-speed setup to keep things aligned. I'm not entirely sure since the M563 hubs are quite old, and I don’t have much personal experience with them. For a more accurate recommendation, you might want to consult a local bike shop or reference a technical manual for the M563 model. They may have additional insight on how best to space the components properly. Let me know how it goes, and feel free to share any updates on your progress!
From my experience: Axle on detached wheel could be spinning freely, but just loose it extra very very little. After locking scewers axle is "tightened" a bit more and after it will be kust enough for free spinning vs too much tighteness.
Great and very useful video. I have a question: can an 11 speed freehub be installed on a 9 speed Shimano 105 bike? The idea is to upgrade from 9 to 11 speed without having to get new wheels.
Hi, thnak you for your kind comment and apologies for not being able to come back to you sooner. Regarding your question, you would need to check if your current freehub body can accommodate an 11-speed cassette Another thing to keep in mind is that you'll also need to upgrade your rear derailleur, chain, crankset, cassette and shifters for 11-speed. In short, it's possible but depends on the specific details of your current setup. Hope this helps.
The Bontrager setup on my mtb is so much more relax. No allenkey to remove the body. Just pull it off. My roadbike has shimano and needs a crazy 15mm allenkey.
@@cyclemaintenanceacademy All my 6Bolt rotor mounted discs have access to the cone. There is a big risk when removing rotor bolts; one my strip, so I don't take off rotors unless to replace or rebuild the wheel (new spokes). I bought an impact screwdriver a year ago and this has a much more dependable record of not stripping the head.
Hi, thank you for your comment! You’re absolutely right that Shimano freehubs on thru-axle wheels require larger Allen keys. However, this video focuses on quick-release and solid axle wheels, and I emphasized the use of 10mm Allen keys because non-Shimano freehubs for these wheel types often require larger sizes, like 11mm or 12mm. I hope this clears things up!🙂
@@cyclemaintenanceacademy ok, thanks for the answer. I wonder what type of axle do I have, and how can I find the answer to it? The bike is a pretty cheap hybrid from a supermarket for around 500 (around 10 years old), but I know it has a centerlock on disc brake side. I have not bought a key for it yet
Hi Luke, thank you for your question and apologies for not replying sooner. I don't have a video about this yet but I'll put it on my to do list. Stay tuned!
Is the washer between the hub and the freehub body necessary? I am trying to swap an 8-10 speed freehub to 11 speed freehub and when i use the washer, there is a 1mm gap… if I dont put it on, the freehub sits fluah and still moves freely
Hi, yes the washer is important. However, if the system works for you without it and the freehub moves freely and fits securely, then that’s great! Just make sure there’s no interference with the hub or cassette when riding, as that could affect performance over time.
Protip: when using quick release type wheels, leave the axle just a little bit "loose". When tightening quick release, it does press the axle a bit and if it is tightened "correctly" it won't spin that well.
Just got my whole wheel apart from a second hand bike. The body just fell out, body lock nut wasn't tight, afraid the thread inside the hub is stripped 😢
Hi, and thanks for your question. It would be great to avoid removing the rotor. However, in most cases, the rotor blocks access to the cone and you will not be able to fit the 15mm cone spanner. You need to hold the cone in place when loosening and tightening the lock nut on the non-drive side. Let me know if this makes sense🙂
Is it possible I need a 16mm cone spanner on a Shimano hub? The lock nut seems to be 17mm, which I have. But my 15mm does not fit on the cone (about 1mm out)
Hi George, thanks for your question. It's an interesting one. I'm not aware of Shimano ever using cones thet fit16mm cone spanners. Could it be manufacturing fault? Or maybe someone serviced it before and didn't use genuine replacement cone? If you find out let us know. Good luck!
@@cyclemaintenanceacademy Thanks for the reply! You were correct to slightly doubt me! It was in fact a 15mm. My problem was I was using a more generic (thicker) spanner rather than the thinner cone spanner (to my understanding). Found my cone spanner (15 mm) and on it went. Sorted- thanks
In my bicycle wrenching time, I have seen few broken freehubs, but mostly just need to be taken apart and overhauled. If you have an older bike, a new freehub may not be available.
Hi and thanks for your tips. Using tweezers to remove bearings is a good practice however using a pen magnet to remove bearings from a hub typically shouldn't cause issues with magnetization. However, it's important to be cautious and not leave the bearings in contact with the magnet for an extended period of time, as this could potentially magnetize them. Many tutorials recommend using magnets because they can make the process easier and more efficient. Just be mindful of how long the bearings are in contact with the magnet to minimise the risk of magnetization. When it comes to the 11mm and 12mm allen key sizes for freehub body axle bolts, other brands utilise these sizes. In Shimano's case, 10mm allen keys are used to remove the freehub body axle bolts, appart from XTR 970/975, XT 770/775, Saint 810, and Dura-Ace 7850/7900 that utilise 14mm allen key.
@@cyclemaintenanceacademyNice one brother. I too had a 12mm hex type freehub and boy o' boy was it tight! I had to order the 12mm hex especially. After a struggle, I then used three kettles of boiled water on the hub/hex area, and quenched it with cold water each time. This did the trick after the third dousing. Good channel you have, and UK based too, makes a change from too many Americans and Europeans on here. ✔🇬🇧💯👍😉
Hi Stephen, thanks for your comment. If your Shimano hub doesn't have a model number, but you're sure it's a Shimano, take off the old freehub part and bring it to your local bike shop. They can help you find a matching replacement. You can also check online pictures, but keep in mind that some might not show the real product - they could be just for show. I hope this helps.🙂
I have watched, i think all of your videos. I have to admit that your videos are THE BEST on TH-cam! I have question and would be very happy if you could answer it. My hub model number is : WH-RX010 pa/SF. The thing is 10mm doesn't open it. It seems to be to small. I do not know how to open it. Than k You!
Thank you so much for your kind words and for being a dedicated viewer! I appreciate your support. Regarding your question about removing the freehub body (Y48U98050) on the Shimano wheel - WH-RX010 that's interesting. I've confirmed this information by consulting the Shimano manuals, and the appropriate tool for your hub should indeed be a 10mm allen key. Make sure to turn it anti-clockwise to loosen it. You may also want to try another 10mm allen key as your old one might be worn out. If this doesn't help consider visiting your local bike shop. They should be able to provide you with a solution. Let me know how you got on.
Question, I have Joytech hub but shimano freehub. from the freehub side I have the exact same screw like showed on the video (only 11mm key is needed because the manufacturer hates me) but from the brake disc side I have access to 12mm standard hex screw. Which one choose to disconnect the freehub?
Thanks for your patience, and apologies for the delayed response! Based on your description, it sounds like the 12mm hex screw on the brake disc side is likely the one to undo. However, it’s always good to verify the specifics of your hub model, as some hubs may have different configurations. If you've already tried it, could you let us know which side worked for you? That way, we can all benefit from your experience!
I don't think I have seen a better video on internet - super well done and professional !! Thank you...
Thank you so much for your kind words! I’m really glad you enjoyed the video, and I appreciate your feedback. It means a lot to know that it stood out to you. I’m always striving to improve and provide the best content, so your support is truly appreciated!🙂
The best explanation on youtube.
Hi, thanks a lot for the compliment! I'm glad you found the explanation helpful. If you have any more questions or need further clarification, feel free to ask!🙂
I have the same hub and this is really good explanation about changing the broken Freehub. Also the website van Shimano was really helpful!
Thanks so much for the kind words! I’m glad the explanation helped with your freehub replacement. It’s great to hear that Shimano’s website was also useful for you. If you have any more questions or need further tips, don’t hesitate to ask! 🚴♂️
enfin une video digne de ce nom, je viens de dévisser le corps de roue libre j'ai cru que je n'y arriverait jamais tellement c'était serré, j'ai dû prendre un levier, et c'était encore très très dur...great video thank you
Thank you for your comment! I'm really glad the video helped you. I totally understand the frustration when a freehub body is super tight - sometimes you just have to get creative with leverage to break that initial resistance. But it's great to hear you got it done! Thanks again for watching and I'm happy the tutorial was useful to you!🙂
The best video ever seen. A warm greeting from Italy.
Thank you so much! I'm really glad you enjoyed the video. A warm greeting from Manchester, UK🇬🇧 right back to you in Italy-such a beautiful country! 😊🚴♂️
Great video! I like that you have a slower motion on the essential moments.
Thank you! I'm really glad you found the slower motion helpful. I try to highlight the key moments so it’s easier to follow along, especially when it comes to important details. Your feedback is much appreciated, and I’ll definitely keep that in mind for future videos. Happy cycling! 🚴♂️😊
Very useful video. Nowhere else I have seen the method mentioned hoew to find out the correct replacement... Thanks for it!
Hi, and thanks for your great comment.🙏 I'm glad you found the video useful! It's great to know that the method for finding the correct replacement was helpful to you. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask.🙂
This video saved me a lot of trouble. Can't thank you enough 🙏
You're most welcome!🙂 I'm glat the video was helpful.
Great video. I remember once trying to "service" a Shimano free hub body. It definitely came apart, and best I remember there were immediately about 10,500 TINY bearings EVERYWHERE. Believe it or not, I found them all and managed to get them packed back in (both sides!) and finished the service. Moral of the story (for me anyway) was the main hub bearings are easy to service - the freehub body, not so much. Probably easier to either squirt some lube in there from the outside, or just replace it!
Hi, and thanks for your comment. I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Your experience with servicing a Shimano freehub body definitely sounds like quite the adventure. Kudos to you for managing to get them all packed back in and successfully finishing the service. Yes, I agrre with you, make your life easier and just replace the freehub. Especially that they are not that expensive.
Thanks!
Hey Rob! Thanks so much for the generous $2!🙏 I'm glad that you found my video helpful.
Your support means a lot and helps me to create more content like this. If you have any questions or need further assistance, feel free to reach out.
I agree with the other, outstanding video, thanks a lot ! The how to find the part is very usefull!
Thank you so much for the kind words! I’m really glad you found the "how to find the part" section useful. It’s great to hear that the video was helpful to you-thanks for watching! 😊
awesome video, love the close ups, thank you
Thanks David, I'm glad that you like my way of filming🙂
Great video detailed tutorial 👌
Love your content ❤
Hi, and thanks very much for your kind words! I'm delighted to hear that you found the tutorial helpful and enjoyed the content. If you have any suggestions for future videos or any questions, feel free to let me know. Your support means a lot! ❤️
Nice tip on the si Shimano site,thanks! I have a through axle on my bike , is the process basically the same?
Yes, the process is similar, but you've inspired me with a great idea to create a video specifically addressing the replacement of the freehub body on thru axle wheels. 😊
Thank you for the great video! This helps me a lot!
You're very welcome! I'm glad the video was helpful for you. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask!🙂
Man, this as saved so much time & money. Normally I would be very lazy and purchase another wheel (twice I have done this), however after viewing this, a urica moment. I should be ablt to do this. took my time, all in all it took me an hour. Bravo, excellent tutorial. Thank you Sir. :o)... oh Subscripe to you 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Thank you so much and I'm sorry for not being able to reply to you sooner! I’m really glad the video helped you save both time and money. It’s awesome to hear you had that "eureka" moment and tackled it yourself. An hour well spent! Thanks for the subscription too-really appreciate the support! 👏🏾😊
I got a 1990ish bike that I’m fully restoring; one step is to replace the 7-speed body from a Shimano Parallax M563 body to one for 8-speed. After a year I finally got my hands on such 8/10-speed body and currently in the process of following these steps, but I’ve a question: the original assembly has a washer between the body and the wheel that is depressed in a circular ridge, this such washer is different to the one shown in 6:58, and the replacement body I got does include a washer exactly like the one in the video. My question is whether should I use both washers or only the one already in the wheel? I understand this will determine the spacing from the body and the spokes; but my logic (and ignorance) tell me that if the previous body didn’t need 2 washers the new one should not need them either. I appreciate any help, thank you in advance.
Hi, thanks for your comment and apologies for not being able to reply to you sooner. It sounds like you're on the right track with your restoration, and I can see how this part might be a bit tricky! From what you're describing, the washer that’s included with the new 8/10-speed freehub body is likely designed to fit the new body and ensure proper alignment with the wheel. If the original assembly had a washer that was depressed in a circular ridge, that may have been specific to the 7-speed setup to keep things aligned.
I'm not entirely sure since the M563 hubs are quite old, and I don’t have much personal experience with them.
For a more accurate recommendation, you might want to consult a local bike shop or reference a technical manual for the M563 model. They may have additional insight on how best to space the components properly.
Let me know how it goes, and feel free to share any updates on your progress!
Great detail, thank you.
You're welcome. I'm glad it was helpful!
Good job RJ 👌
Thanks, what a compliment😉👍
From my experience:
Axle on detached wheel could be spinning freely, but just loose it extra very very little. After locking scewers axle is "tightened" a bit more and after it will be kust enough for free spinning vs too much tighteness.
Hi, and thanks for sharing the extra tip with other viewers!🙂
Great and very useful video. I have a question: can an 11 speed freehub be installed on a 9 speed Shimano 105 bike? The idea is to upgrade from 9 to 11 speed without having to get new wheels.
Hi, thnak you for your kind comment and apologies for not being able to come back to you sooner. Regarding your question, you would need to check if your current freehub body can accommodate an 11-speed cassette Another thing to keep in mind is that you'll also need to upgrade your rear derailleur, chain, crankset, cassette and shifters for 11-speed. In short, it's possible but depends on the specific details of your current setup. Hope this helps.
@@cyclemaintenanceacademy It does help, thank you.
The Bontrager setup on my mtb is so much more relax. No allenkey to remove the body. Just pull it off. My roadbike has shimano and needs a crazy 15mm allenkey.
Hey, thnaks for sharing your experience. It's great to have options that make maintenance simpler!
Why remove the disc? Just to protect it?
Yes, and also to get access to the cone.
@@cyclemaintenanceacademy All my 6Bolt rotor mounted discs have access to the cone. There is a big risk when removing rotor bolts; one my strip, so I don't take off rotors unless to replace or rebuild the wheel (new spokes). I bought an impact screwdriver a year ago and this has a much more dependable record of not stripping the head.
Are you sure it is always 10mm hex wrench to remove the freehub? On some videos they have also said 14mm or 15mm
Hi, thank you for your comment! You’re absolutely right that Shimano freehubs on thru-axle wheels require larger Allen keys. However, this video focuses on quick-release and solid axle wheels, and I emphasized the use of 10mm Allen keys because non-Shimano freehubs for these wheel types often require larger sizes, like 11mm or 12mm. I hope this clears things up!🙂
@@cyclemaintenanceacademy ok, thanks for the answer. I wonder what type of axle do I have, and how can I find the answer to it? The bike is a pretty cheap hybrid from a supermarket for around 500 (around 10 years old), but I know it has a centerlock on disc brake side. I have not bought a key for it yet
How do you get the double sealed bearings out?
Hi Luke, thank you for your question and apologies for not replying sooner. I don't have a video about this yet but I'll put it on my to do list. Stay tuned!
Thank you for the great video.
You're most welcome. let me know if you stuck with anything else or need more advice!
Great tutorial, thanks a lot...
Is the washer between the hub and the freehub body necessary? I am trying to swap an 8-10 speed freehub to 11 speed freehub and when i use the washer, there is a 1mm gap… if I dont put it on, the freehub sits fluah and still moves freely
Hi, yes the washer is important. However, if the system works for you without it and the freehub moves freely and fits securely, then that’s great! Just make sure there’s no interference with the hub or cassette when riding, as that could affect performance over time.
Protip: when using quick release type wheels, leave the axle just a little bit "loose". When tightening quick release, it does press the axle a bit and if it is tightened "correctly" it won't spin that well.
Hi, and thanks for sharing your tip.🙂
By doing so there is a risk of bending the wheel axle, especially if it is an aluminum axle.
@@TheApanapan Just a little bit "loose". Watch Park tools Tech Tuesday #161 you can see what I mean.
Very clear,thank you.
You're welcome. I'm glad you found the video helpful!🙂
Just got my whole wheel apart from a second hand bike. The body just fell out, body lock nut wasn't tight, afraid the thread inside the hub is stripped 😢
Hey, thanks for the comment. Sorry to hear that, it must be really frustrating!
hex 10 does not fit for me, do i need a bigger one ?
Hi, interesting. Can you send me the hub's unique model number?
11 and 12 are more common for sealed freehub bodies
Can this not be done without taking the rotor off?
Hi, and thanks for your question. It would be great to avoid removing the rotor. However, in most cases, the rotor blocks access to the cone and you will not be able to fit the 15mm cone spanner. You need to hold the cone in place when loosening and tightening the lock nut on the non-drive side. Let me know if this makes sense🙂
Can convert it to XD driver?
Hi, apologies for not replying to your question sooner. No, unfortunately you can't convert them to the XD driver
Great info.
Hi Chris, thanks for the comment. I'm pleased to hear that you found the information in the video useful. 🙂
Is it possible I need a 16mm cone spanner on a Shimano hub? The lock nut seems to be 17mm, which I have. But my 15mm does not fit on the cone (about 1mm out)
Hi George, thanks for your question. It's an interesting one. I'm not aware of Shimano ever using cones thet fit16mm cone spanners. Could it be manufacturing fault? Or maybe someone serviced it before and didn't use genuine replacement cone? If you find out let us know. Good luck!
@@cyclemaintenanceacademy Thanks for the reply! You were correct to slightly doubt me! It was in fact a 15mm. My problem was I was using a more generic (thicker) spanner rather than the thinner cone spanner (to my understanding). Found my cone spanner (15 mm) and on it went. Sorted- thanks
In my bicycle wrenching time, I have seen few broken freehubs, but mostly just need to be taken apart and overhauled. If you have an older bike, a new freehub may not be available.
Very much appreciated
👍
Great! Thanx!
You're welcome!🙂 I'm pleased you found it useful.
Don't magnetize your bearing balls. Use a ball bearing tweezers instead. Also, some freehub bodies take 11, 12, or 14 mm hex wrenches.
Hi and thanks for your tips. Using tweezers to remove bearings is a good practice however using a pen magnet to remove bearings from a hub typically shouldn't cause issues with magnetization. However, it's important to be cautious and not leave the bearings in contact with the magnet for an extended period of time, as this could potentially magnetize them. Many tutorials recommend using magnets because they can make the process easier and more efficient. Just be mindful of how long the bearings are in contact with the magnet to minimise the risk of magnetization.
When it comes to the 11mm and 12mm allen key sizes for freehub body axle bolts, other brands utilise these sizes. In Shimano's case, 10mm allen keys are used to remove the freehub body axle bolts, appart from XTR 970/975, XT 770/775, Saint 810, and Dura-Ace 7850/7900 that utilise 14mm allen key.
@@cyclemaintenanceacademyNice one brother. I too had a 12mm hex type freehub and boy o' boy was it tight! I had to order the 12mm hex especially. After a struggle, I then used three kettles of boiled water on the hub/hex area, and quenched it with cold water each time. This did the trick after the third dousing. Good channel you have, and UK based too, makes a change from too many Americans and Europeans on here. ✔🇬🇧💯👍😉
No number on the hub
Hi Stephen, thanks for your comment. If your Shimano hub doesn't have a model number, but you're sure it's a Shimano, take off the old freehub part and bring it to your local bike shop. They can help you find a matching replacement. You can also check online pictures, but keep in mind that some might not show the real product - they could be just for show. I hope this helps.🙂
Wow that hub was from Malaysia
yep, it was🙂
Genius
Thanks!🙂
Dude put on some gloves though!
Thanks, I use a barrier cream🙂
I have watched, i think all of your videos. I have to admit that your videos are THE BEST on TH-cam! I have question and would be very happy if you could answer it.
My hub model number is : WH-RX010 pa/SF. The thing is 10mm doesn't open it. It seems to be to small. I do not know how to open it.
Than k You!
Thank you so much for your kind words and for being a dedicated viewer! I appreciate your support. Regarding your question about removing the freehub body (Y48U98050) on the Shimano wheel - WH-RX010 that's interesting.
I've confirmed this information by consulting the Shimano manuals, and the appropriate tool for your hub should indeed be a 10mm allen key. Make sure to turn it anti-clockwise to loosen it. You may also want to try another 10mm allen key as your old one might be worn out.
If this doesn't help consider visiting your local bike shop. They should be able to provide you with a solution. Let me know how you got on.
This video! 🙌🏻
Thank you for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Question, I have Joytech hub but shimano freehub.
from the freehub side I have the exact same screw like showed on the video (only 11mm key is needed because the manufacturer hates me) but from the brake disc side I have access to 12mm standard hex screw.
Which one choose to disconnect the freehub?
Thanks for your patience, and apologies for the delayed response! Based on your description, it sounds like the 12mm hex screw on the brake disc side is likely the one to undo. However, it’s always good to verify the specifics of your hub model, as some hubs may have different configurations. If you've already tried it, could you let us know which side worked for you? That way, we can all benefit from your experience!