40 year carpenter, I’ve seen you many times at the roadshows, respect your passion, expertise, and practical “ in the field”, solutions, and also your attention to productivity which so many people don’t understand- your best tip in this video is when it’s time to throw the level away after checking head and jambs and fool the eye- there will always be the haters that don’t understand this concept and will lose their minds because they’re in love with the level and have not learned proper, proven, professional techniques- all the best Gary!
So excited to have this entire series streaming. Gary comes at it with zero ego and the patience of a saint. This series is so useful to those of us who weren’t able to find the mentor we needed but Gary indeed became that for me and I’m sure many others.
Thank you for perhaps the best how-to videos I have ever watched. You are comprehensive without wasting time, No wasted time!! You dont forget any thing which many others always do. I have done historic restoration for 45 years and your comment about finding middle ground with level, plumb and straight was SO spot on. A new guy went over and installed an "old" window into my bosses old crooked house. He put it in straight and level and square and it looked Horrible. It had to be ripped out and done completely over with the proper amount of out of level , plumb and square to work with the trapezoid space it was installed in. It is a bit of an art. Thank you for your in-depth enjoyable episode. I never liked hanging doors but it would have been a lot more pleasant had I seen this first.
@@DoctorDification Wow. Thank you for your note! I used to be terrified of hanging a new door in an old jamb, until I met the Shaefer brothers, and then…it became a game: how many can you do in a day: twenty, thirty?? pairs? Dutch doors, etc, etc. If more people find joy in hanging doors because of my videos and classes, I will leave succeeded. :)
Gary! This is tremendous!! I'm a new carpenter and doors are my absolute favorite work ever. They're so cool and fascinating; I'm always eager to learn more about door work. Thanks so, so much for sharing this.
You are more than welcome. My friend Jed Dixon (stairbuilder) always said that stairs and doors were the most challenging part of finish work. I couldn't agree more. Especially hanging a new door in an old jamb. I'm so happy to have learned form the Shaefer brothers and to be able to share those techniques on YT so they won't be lost.
Immense thanks, Gary! I encountered an odd sized 27.75 x 80 jam for a solid wood door. By cutting the slab door just once, it fit flawlessly on the first attempt! Discovering your video and gaining knowledge from it has brought me immense joy. Thank you!
Wow what a great surprise seeing this video on TH-cam today I have the dvd and the book you wrote on hanging doors. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge over the years it has made a big difference in my life and others. Now I can watch your video any time any where. God bless you buddy
BRILLIANT ! Thank you for being detailed oriented, not like many other videos with just a brush-over explanation and presto-the door is hung! Thanks for using the proper vocabulary also. it is a pleasure to listen and watch and experienced professional in his element. Your side comments about young helpers and extra details are most appreciated also. I have an exterior 9 light door slab to install next week and now I am ready-- even though I have installed several slabs before over the years I am now properly prepared. As my Strength of Materials teacher used to say: "You are good engineer."
Your content is invaluable to new carptners as well as well seasoned carptners looking for new tricks. Bending hinges to fix the hang on a door isnt anything ive seen on this old house. The 1/4 1/4 1/4 draw isnt anything Norm showed us. Im sure they knew this. Your a great teacher.
Really grateful for these videos, Gary. I always enjoy seeing how other people do things, especially from other continents/countries. Some nice little tips here I can use.
I love the strike plate with tape technique, I'll have to try that one. Thanks for the uploads. Great source of information and seasoned professional techniques.
49:19 Been there done that. Lost an hour trying to get the bit out. Didn't want to cut the door even though it was only a Masonite door, needed to get the job done and didn't have time to order another. There's a cardboard maize inside those doors, but I eventually got it out through the hole believe it or not. Use tape ever time now.
I would also like to add a huge thanks Gary. Im on door number 5 and even my dumb ass actually cut and installed the very first one perfectly. You are a fantastic teacher, man!!
Marvelous video! Very helpful! And you are a true professional! Thank you for the videos!How do I get a hold of the door scribing tool measurements you use in the video? Thank you.
Impact drivers/wrenches use high frequency impacts to increase the torque. They don't work so well with a continuous load like boring a large diameter hole. Also, the original video is pretty old. I use an 18v Milwaukee drill for this exact purpose and it works fine. Occasionally, the drill will hang up, but I think that's mostly because my batteries are old or the drill bit is dull. Battery tech has come along way since this video was filmed.
I'm sure he will add the video at some point but I just use a Simpson strong tie strap from home depot and an old exhaust coupler and some elastic from joaans
...never could figure why the bevel on the hinge side...I've never done it (well, after I learned it's not necessary) and have doors I've hung 35 years ago that operate just fine. oh, and I'm a stick guy too, it won't lie, lol...so, got to the end of the vid and, yes, I can see a reason to bevel the hinge side. But I'm one of those guys who resist bending the hinges until there's no other option...lots of times I'll slam a 4" screw into a hinge I want to pull back so it gets to the king stud, more often than not that will get it done. Nice vid...oh, I use a plunge router with the stops set to my depths and the newer Templaco kit has a nice jig for the strike where, usually, there's no need to adjust between the hinge depth and the strike depth. Also, Templaco makes a Forstner/auger type bit to fit their jig that is much faster and cleaner than that olde spade bit. I've done alot of apartment work and have to travel (read: lug tools) up and down stairs so have to keep my kit to a minimum...I *wish* I could use a door rig like you have! Haha...
I want to know where you got those pants! I need pants with a pocket at the knees for knee pads and I love those pouches for tools, nails, screws etc. I wish I could find then in heavier weight fabric for cold weather and thinner weight fabric for summer heat.
Find it interesting that carpenters use the butt to the hinges for getting the door handing. Locksmiths use a different method and its all based on which side of the door is the locked side. Standing on the locked side of the door and hinges on the right if you have to back up to open the door its a righthand reverse.
Hey I just used the thin Simpson strong tie straps from home depot and an old exhaust coupler to create the hook part and some elastic from joanns. Mine ended up a little long but it's fine. It hooks all the way above the trim.
As a new carpenter your videos are invaluable Gary, thank you very much A question: what to do if the existing jamb/wall is considerably out of plumb? Enough that the door would open/close due to gravity. Install the hinges plumb and have the door out of wind with the jamb? Thanks
Thank you for sharing these videos. I have most of your DVDs and two of your books. They have been the greatest resources I have for my trade. You and Spencer Lewis are my to go to people. I have two questions. What do you use to seal the bottom of the doors while your working on them? I hang both paint grade and stain grade doors for a store in old homes. Would shellac work for both? Do you have a different suggestion? Second question, What is the preferred height off the finish door? What do you do for hard surfaces? What about over carpet? And much do you allow for carpet that hasn't been installed yet? I currently aim for 1/4" above the finished floor or existing carpet, with the door closed (providing an unleveled floor doesn't interfere when the door is fully swung open). Sometimes the homeowner has a specific request, but most of the time they ask me what is normal. If anybody else is reading this and has practical input, please chime in. Thanks!
Spencer Lewis is awesome. I've learned a lot from watching his YT videos, too! I seal exterior doors with a couple coats of spray varnish, something that dries quickly. IF it's a stain-grade door, I mask off the door and spray the bottom. For paint grade I spray the bottom twice, then lightly sand the bottom rail to remove any overspray. The doorhangers/finish carpenters aren't really responsible for sealing doors--but I kind of feel that a little extra effort is worth it, especially if the painters never do it or do a slipshod job. I think shellac would work just as well. Height off finish floor is kind of a regional thing. Some places in the country they cut the doors off the floor a LOT thinking that's the only way to ensure conditioned air will move through the home. Where I come from, we allow 1/4" clearance--and the same as you, we check the swing and make sure 1/4" is enough just in case the floor rises as the door swings open (or the wall is out of plumb).
The preferred height off the finished floor for interior doors 1/4". But if the home has central air and heat, increase it to an inch or more to allow the return air out of the room and back to the HVAC system. A lot of homes have door bottoms that are too low and cause the HVAC system to pressurize the rooms and depressurize the main part of the house. This can cause several problems and safety concerns.
@@davidparker9676 Thank you for your input David. Originally, I mentioned that practice in my initial post, but somehow I must have deleted it when editing my comments. I don't know what happened there. Anyways, I see that a lot in older homes here in the Midwest. My question is, Is that still necessary if the room has cold air returns in them? Do you still need an 1" under the doors? Sorry my knowledge about HVAC is minimal.
@@t.e.1189 If you have supply and return ducts to every room you don't need any gap on the doors. If you have only supply ducts to the rooms, having a single central return duct in the home, you need a large gap on every room with a door and a supply duct.
So long as the jamb sides are straight, regardless whether plumb and reardless the shape of the opening, I use my HowFarOut level survey gauge and Stabila jamber levels to map the F.O., then my tracksaw to size the door with required allowances for width, head, and sill margins. If jamb surface(s) are so significantly bowed as to make margins noticeably inconsistent, I will scribe as Gary demonstrates, but it is not often that I find this necssary. As Gary says, there are many ways to skin the same trim cat...
How can I tell if an opening can hold a door? I have a opening between two rooms that looks like it's been framed out (molding on the side and what not) and it FEELS solid and I want to hang a door on it, how can I tell if it's good to hang one?
If you use a lightweight hollow-core door, it will probably be fine. However, the best way to know, would be to pull the casing off the side of the jamb you want the hinge to go. See if there are any shims supporting the jamb. When you install the door, add shims behind the hinges.
I have an existing hollow core interior door that the top corner is snug enough that it won't close. The top corner is touching both the latch jamb and the head jamb. How can I fix this?
Is the latch jamb plumb in all directions? Head jamb level? It sounds like they might not be? I don't know if it would benefit your scenario or if a true "pro" would recommend this, but I would consider either sanding down the very top (if it's been painted recently it might be because of paint "growth") or alternatively, planing it down just a tad. Again, I'm not a pro but if I were in a pinch and didn't want to replace the whole thing, I'd do something easy-ish.
@@kevincrinklaw7422 Jamb is square. Door is square, although out of plane a little. No paint buildup. It didn't use to be this way, but has gotten worse over the years. Had to take door down recently. Trying to fix without altering the door unless last resort.
My local door shop does pre-hangs by making the jamb the nominal size of the door, then cutting a fat 1/4" off the lock stile to make the door fit! They insist that that's the proper way. Beveling the hinge stile is unfortunately a rare thing. I install the strike plate so the door is even with the jamb, and then install the stops with a gap everywhere except the top and bottom of the latch edge. This is adjusted for a slight spring action and no rattling.
He says it is in the slide show on the DVD. I am looking for one as well. Looks like I will need to design my own by looking at the device on a stopped TH-cam.
He mentions that there are slides in the video to show it. But this obviously extracted from some dvd. Anyway, it should be easy to make by just looking at it 6:42.
Yes, if the casing is off, it's not only much easier/faster but the right thing to do. But most "re-hangs" are not on jambs without casing. Most of the time, they're exterior doors with brickmold masonry on the exterior, and some extremely expensive wallpaper or something on the interior.
I want clear & concise. I installed the door. It fits great. When you're in the middle of a job and youre looking for help from someone you don't need long conversations. @@JonDunnmusician
Wish someone would do a video on doors with tools the average DYI home owner would have on hand. Not gonna go out and buy everything in the festool catalog to hang a couple of doors in my house.
I hung doors for over 25 years before Festool was known very well in the U.S. I used a PC 126, a PC router, a Bosch router, and a Makita belt sander. But even THOSE tools are a considerable investment for a DYIer. You could always use a hand plane, which is much cheaper, but the learning curve is a lot steeper. :O)
Hey bro, I've got a LOT more than $5,000 in tools. $5,000 doesn't even cover my lathe stuff. That's what happens when you find something you love, set a priority when you're young, and you stick with it. By the time you're in your 70s....
I Think a carptners job is to make things squar plumb and leval then make it pretty and pleasing to look at by cheating the difference. Becuse you can only get so close you will find times you cant get perfect without making it look perfect. The closer to perfect you can start off with the better the end results. Your building a 100 to 500k dollar home would you buy a new car put together with rusty bolts and nuts? No you wouldn't. Would you buy brused bannas and pay top dolar for them? Either item is pennies in the bucket compaired to the cost of a house. Wood is a natural product its not perfect no tow 2x4s are the same. We make them the same by bending and twisting them to fit. We take advantage of its natural shape and use it to our advantage, durring finish work its up to finish carptners to make it the best it can be. But everything lays on the foundation laid before finnish. Dont use shorta as an excuse to not mesure up to best that can be done standards. Id tear out the door frame prehang it and start over, you can fit the door to the framing better the fit it to a frame. If the frame is this far out Fix it. That you can change. Once you cut parts of the door to fit It cant be moved without changing it back. I kinda disagree with dealing with a poorly hung frame like this.
IT IS FAR OUT FOR TRAINING PURPOSES He built the faming (in his filming studio) so as to illustrate techniques for dealing with problems one might run up against in the field. He is not advocating trimming doors as opposed to fixing framing.
i used to hang about 15 to 18 doors a day with hand chisels a wooden hammer cordless drill and a hand plain. how many power tools and gadgets does this chap need.
You only hang 15-18 doors a day? Well, there you go. I couldn't make a living doing that. All my door-hanging gear (kit) fits inside my door bench. I walk it into the job and walk it out, slide it into my truck, and I'm gone. I'm only responding to your comments (all three of the last ones I've noticed), because I don't want other views/readers to be mislead by what you're saying.
40 year carpenter, I’ve seen you many times at the roadshows, respect your passion, expertise, and practical “ in the field”, solutions, and also your attention to productivity which so many people don’t understand- your best tip in this video is when it’s time to throw the level away after checking head and jambs and fool the eye- there will always be the haters that don’t understand this concept and will lose their minds because they’re in love with the level and have not learned proper, proven, professional techniques- all the best Gary!
You are so right! Levels and lasers are great tools, but the results always have to be interpreted by the best tool we have--our minds.
So excited to have this entire series streaming. Gary comes at it with zero ego and the patience of a saint. This series is so useful to those of us who weren’t able to find the mentor we needed but Gary indeed became that for me and I’m sure many others.
Thank you for your note, Ethan. I'm glad the videos help and that I've contributed to your passion and confidence.
Thank you for perhaps the best how-to videos I have ever watched. You are comprehensive without wasting time, No wasted time!! You dont forget any thing which many others always do. I have done historic restoration for 45 years and your comment about finding middle ground with level, plumb and straight was SO spot on. A new guy went over and installed an "old" window into my bosses old crooked house. He put it in straight and level and square and it looked Horrible. It had to be ripped out and done completely over with the proper amount of out of level , plumb and square to work with the trapezoid space it was installed in. It is a bit of an art. Thank you for your in-depth enjoyable episode. I never liked hanging doors but it would have been a lot more pleasant had I seen this first.
@@DoctorDification Wow. Thank you for your note! I used to be terrified of hanging a new door in an old jamb, until I met the Shaefer brothers, and then…it became a game: how many can you do in a day: twenty, thirty?? pairs? Dutch doors, etc, etc. If more people find joy in hanging doors because of my videos and classes, I will leave succeeded. :)
@ 52:10 (hanging the door) -- you can also use AIR WEDGE BAGS to assist in dialing door height and hinge screws.
Gary! This is tremendous!! I'm a new carpenter and doors are my absolute favorite work ever. They're so cool and fascinating; I'm always eager to learn more about door work. Thanks so, so much for sharing this.
You are more than welcome. My friend Jed Dixon (stairbuilder) always said that stairs and doors were the most challenging part of finish work. I couldn't agree more. Especially hanging a new door in an old jamb. I'm so happy to have learned form the Shaefer brothers and to be able to share those techniques on YT so they won't be lost.
Immense thanks, Gary! I encountered an odd sized 27.75 x 80 jam for a solid wood door. By cutting the slab door just once, it fit flawlessly on the first attempt! Discovering your video and gaining knowledge from it has brought me immense joy. Thank you!
1 hour and 15 mins of pure carpentry pleasure. Thank you.
Wow what a great surprise seeing this video on TH-cam today I have the dvd and the book you wrote on hanging doors. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge over the years it has made a big difference in my life and others. Now I can watch your video any time any where. God bless you buddy
This guy's incredible you should have been a teacher explain things so well comprehended it very well thank you
He is and was a teacher!
He taught workshops all over the country for many many years- he is a legend to many carpenters & tradespeople.
Thank you for sharing this technique, I will be making a door hook now and trying this
That's a GOOD START!!!
BRILLIANT ! Thank you for being detailed oriented, not like many other videos with just a brush-over explanation and presto-the door is hung! Thanks for using the proper vocabulary also. it is a pleasure to listen and watch and experienced professional in his element.
Your side comments about young helpers and extra details are most appreciated also.
I have an exterior 9 light door slab to install next week and now I am ready-- even though I have installed several slabs before over the years I am now properly prepared.
As my Strength of Materials teacher used to say: "You are good engineer."
Great series! Having a different festool router for each depth of cut is some flex 😂
Incredible! Awesome teacher!!
Your content is invaluable to new carptners as well as well seasoned carptners looking for new tricks.
Bending hinges to fix the hang on a door isnt anything ive seen on this old house. The 1/4 1/4 1/4 draw isnt anything Norm showed us.
Im sure they knew this.
Your a great teacher.
Phenomenal!!! It's Great to get full detailed tips and instructions from a TRUE PROFESSIONAL! THANK YOU!
Really grateful for these videos, Gary. I always enjoy seeing how other people do things, especially from other continents/countries. Some nice little tips here I can use.
Excellent teacher... I love ya man.. .wish i would have found your videos years ago... subbed.. cheers.
I love the strike plate with tape technique, I'll have to try that one. Thanks for the uploads.
Great source of information and seasoned professional techniques.
I have installed a lot of doors b4 but ur video brought me a lot of light thank you 💯
Oh good!
@@THISisCarpentryI agree. There's always room to learn more no matter how old you get.
49:19 Been there done that. Lost an hour trying to get the bit out. Didn't want to cut the door even though it was only a Masonite door, needed to get the job done and didn't have time to order another. There's a cardboard maize inside those doors, but I eventually got it out through the hole believe it or not. Use tape ever time now.
I would also like to add a huge thanks Gary. Im on door number 5 and even my dumb ass actually cut and installed the very first one perfectly. You are a fantastic teacher, man!!
I've been doing carpentery for 40ys. I only wish you could could have taught me. Quality workmanship .😃
Wonderful, helpful video! Thanks so much!
I love this because unlike most videos, this is a video where nothing was square plumb and level - which is my life lolol
Thank you so much for posting these. Treasure!
Thanks for making this available 🙏 so good
I haven't seen the old videos you refer to, but I have enjoyed hours of Larry Haun videos.
Marvelous video! Very helpful! And you are a true professional! Thank you for the videos!How do I get a hold of the door scribing tool measurements you use in the video? Thank you.
Where’s the door hanger link 😂
Keep ‘em coming man I use every trick
This video is a master class. Thank you.
@ 48:00 (boring for latch) -- Could you not use a battery-powered IMPACT WRENCH? I think that my Milwaukee could do it.
Impact drivers/wrenches use high frequency impacts to increase the torque. They don't work so well with a continuous load like boring a large diameter hole. Also, the original video is pretty old. I use an 18v Milwaukee drill for this exact purpose and it works fine. Occasionally, the drill will hang up, but I think that's mostly because my batteries are old or the drill bit is dull. Battery tech has come along way since this video was filmed.
Yeah, I could really use that tool right now. Can you show me how to make it?
I'm sure he will add the video at some point but I just use a Simpson strong tie strap from home depot and an old exhaust coupler and some elastic from joaans
...never could figure why the bevel on the hinge side...I've never done it (well, after I learned it's not necessary) and have doors I've hung 35 years ago that operate just fine. oh, and I'm a stick guy too, it won't lie, lol...so, got to the end of the vid and, yes, I can see a reason to bevel the hinge side. But I'm one of those guys who resist bending the hinges until there's no other option...lots of times I'll slam a 4" screw into a hinge I want to pull back so it gets to the king stud, more often than not that will get it done. Nice vid...oh, I use a plunge router with the stops set to my depths and the newer Templaco kit has a nice jig for the strike where, usually, there's no need to adjust between the hinge depth and the strike depth. Also, Templaco makes a Forstner/auger type bit to fit their jig that is much faster and cleaner than that olde spade bit. I've done alot of apartment work and have to travel (read: lug tools) up and down stairs so have to keep my kit to a minimum...I *wish* I could use a door rig like you have! Haha...
You are a wonderful teacher
I want to know where you got those pants! I need pants with a pocket at the knees for knee pads and I love those pouches for tools, nails, screws etc. I wish I could find then in heavier weight fabric for cold weather and thinner weight fabric for summer heat.
Google Blaklader
SkilZZZZZZZZ- LEVEL 10. Thank You
Find it interesting that carpenters use the butt to the hinges for getting the door handing. Locksmiths use a different method and its all based on which side of the door is the locked side. Standing on the locked side of the door and hinges on the right if you have to back up to open the door its a righthand reverse.
Where is the link to make the door hook please it’s not in the description
Hey I just used the thin Simpson strong tie straps from home depot and an old exhaust coupler to create the hook part and some elastic from joanns. Mine ended up a little long but it's fine. It hooks all the way above the trim.
It was originally on the DVD that they don't sell anymore. I'm not sure if there is a video for it now.
As a new carpenter your videos are invaluable Gary, thank you very much
A question: what to do if the existing jamb/wall is considerably out of plumb? Enough that the door would open/close due to gravity. Install the hinges plumb and have the door out of wind with the jamb?
Thanks
I am following you from Morocco
Thank you for sharing these videos. I have most of your DVDs and two of your books. They have been the greatest resources I have for my trade. You and Spencer Lewis are my to go to people.
I have two questions. What do you use to seal the bottom of the doors while your working on them? I hang both paint grade and stain grade doors for a store in old homes. Would shellac work for both? Do you have a different suggestion?
Second question, What is the preferred height off the finish door? What do you do for hard surfaces? What about over carpet? And much do you allow for carpet that hasn't been installed yet? I currently aim for 1/4" above the finished floor or existing carpet, with the door closed (providing an unleveled floor doesn't interfere when the door is fully swung open).
Sometimes the homeowner has a specific request, but most of the time they ask me what is normal.
If anybody else is reading this and has practical input, please chime in. Thanks!
Spencer Lewis is awesome. I've learned a lot from watching his YT videos, too!
I seal exterior doors with a couple coats of spray varnish, something that dries quickly. IF it's a stain-grade door, I mask off the door and spray the bottom. For paint grade I spray the bottom twice, then lightly sand the bottom rail to remove any overspray. The doorhangers/finish carpenters aren't really responsible for sealing doors--but I kind of feel that a little extra effort is worth it, especially if the painters never do it or do a slipshod job. I think shellac would work just as well.
Height off finish floor is kind of a regional thing. Some places in the country they cut the doors off the floor a LOT thinking that's the only way to ensure conditioned air will move through the home. Where I come from, we allow 1/4" clearance--and the same as you, we check the swing and make sure 1/4" is enough just in case the floor rises as the door swings open (or the wall is out of plumb).
@@THISisCarpentry Thank you!
The preferred height off the finished floor for interior doors 1/4". But if the home has central air and heat, increase it to an inch or more to allow the return air out of the room and back to the HVAC system.
A lot of homes have door bottoms that are too low and cause the HVAC system to pressurize the rooms and depressurize the main part of the house. This can cause several problems and safety concerns.
@@davidparker9676 Thank you for your input David. Originally, I mentioned that practice in my initial post, but somehow I must have deleted it when editing my comments. I don't know what happened there. Anyways, I see that a lot in older homes here in the Midwest. My question is, Is that still necessary if the room has cold air returns in them? Do you still need an 1" under the doors? Sorry my knowledge about HVAC is minimal.
@@t.e.1189 If you have supply and return ducts to every room you don't need any gap on the doors.
If you have only supply ducts to the rooms, having a single central return duct in the home, you need a large gap on every room with a door and a supply duct.
Very nice tools.
Dude bending the hinges I always did old school and add paper stock behind them. Thanks
How did the distance increase after shimming the door up on the hinge side? See 08:40 and 09:53. The distance should be less at 09:53 than at 08:40.
Using the strike plate and tang method to line up the holes is a great idea! But do you use the strike plate for the dead bolt also?
Job well done
So long as the jamb sides are straight, regardless whether plumb and reardless the shape of the opening, I use my HowFarOut level survey gauge and Stabila jamber levels to map the F.O., then my tracksaw to size the door with required allowances for width, head, and sill margins. If jamb surface(s) are so significantly bowed as to make margins noticeably inconsistent, I will scribe as Gary demonstrates, but it is not often that I find this necssary. As Gary says, there are many ways to skin the same trim cat...
Might you be so kind as to share one or some?
How can I tell if an opening can hold a door? I have a opening between two rooms that looks like it's been framed out (molding on the side and what not) and it FEELS solid and I want to hang a door on it, how can I tell if it's good to hang one?
If you use a lightweight hollow-core door, it will probably be fine. However, the best way to know, would be to pull the casing off the side of the jamb you want the hinge to go. See if there are any shims supporting the jamb. When you install the door, add shims behind the hinges.
great video...a real pro in action. why seal the top and bottom (interior door) when you want moisture to leave?
It states on most door packaging to seal all the raw edges you make, to avoid a change in the moisture content of the door .
I have an existing hollow core interior door that the top corner is snug enough that it won't close. The top corner is touching both the latch jamb and the head jamb. How can I fix this?
Is the latch jamb plumb in all directions? Head jamb level? It sounds like they might not be? I don't know if it would benefit your scenario or if a true "pro" would recommend this, but I would consider either sanding down the very top (if it's been painted recently it might be because of paint "growth") or alternatively, planing it down just a tad. Again, I'm not a pro but if I were in a pinch and didn't want to replace the whole thing, I'd do something easy-ish.
@@kevincrinklaw7422 Jamb is square. Door is square, although out of plane a little. No paint buildup. It didn't use to be this way, but has gotten worse over the years. Had to take door down recently. Trying to fix without altering the door unless last resort.
My local door shop does pre-hangs by making the jamb the nominal size of the door, then cutting a fat 1/4" off the lock stile to make the door fit! They insist that that's the proper way.
Beveling the hinge stile is unfortunately a rare thing. I install the strike plate so the door is even with the jamb, and then install the stops with a gap everywhere except the top and bottom of the latch edge. This is adjusted for a slight spring action and no rattling.
LINK to the DOOR HOOK is NOT in the description above!
Anyone know where to get the door hook tool?
He says it is in the slide show on the DVD. I am looking for one as well. Looks like I will need to design my own by looking at the device on a stopped TH-cam.
You know this guy built that door jam perfectly incorrectly just for this demo
My head is going to explode . I'm just going to pay someone to do it.
Goodafternoon sir, please how can I reach out to you. Please am interested in learning in person.
Gary where can I find a door hook like you have in this video?
Thank you!
Great video. Was that your brother at the end ?
Yes it was. And my cousin, Kevin. Couldn't resist. Three carpenters in one family.
Right.... where do you get the door hook from
He mentions that there are slides in the video to show it. But this obviously extracted from some dvd. Anyway, it should be easy to make by just looking at it 6:42.
If you watch to the end of the video, the instructions for the door hook are included.
Thankyou
with the casings already off would it not be faster to correct the out-of-square frame?
Yes, if the casing is off, it's not only much easier/faster but the right thing to do. But most "re-hangs" are not on jambs without casing. Most of the time, they're exterior doors with brickmold masonry on the exterior, and some extremely expensive wallpaper or something on the interior.
Excellent video. I'm going to try to hang a new door in an old jam this weekend. Great tips
You did a lot of anecdotes however, made the video lengthy
If you want short and fast, go to Burger King, please get a clue!
I want clear & concise. I installed the door. It fits great. When you're in the middle of a job and youre looking for help from someone you don't need long conversations. @@JonDunnmusician
Gary I wonder what you would do if the power went out ? ha..
I've got a generator, duh. :)
Where I come from, that's called lunch time.
Number one fire safety tip...close the door.
Wish someone would do a video on doors with tools the average DYI home owner would have on hand. Not gonna go out and buy everything in the festool catalog to hang a couple of doors in my house.
I hung doors for over 25 years before Festool was known very well in the U.S. I used a PC 126, a PC router, a Bosch router, and a Makita belt sander. But even THOSE tools are a considerable investment for a DYIer. You could always use a hand plane, which is much cheaper, but the learning curve is a lot steeper. :O)
You were such a nebish! You look way cooler now.
Not everyone has Festool equipment .
that's your problem
this guy has like $5000 worth of nice Festool tools lol....damn
Hey bro, I've got a LOT more than $5,000 in tools. $5,000 doesn't even cover my lathe stuff. That's what happens when you find something you love, set a priority when you're young, and you stick with it. By the time you're in your 70s....
💪 Promo>SM
I Think a carptners job is to make things squar plumb and leval then make it pretty and pleasing to look at by cheating the difference.
Becuse you can only get so close you will find times you cant get perfect without making it look perfect. The closer to perfect you can start off with the better the end results.
Your building a 100 to 500k dollar home would you buy a new car put together with rusty bolts and nuts?
No you wouldn't. Would you buy brused bannas and pay top dolar for them? Either item is pennies in the bucket compaired to the cost of a house. Wood is a natural product its not perfect no tow 2x4s are the same. We make them the same by bending and twisting them to fit. We take advantage of its natural shape and use it to our advantage, durring finish work its up to finish carptners to make it the best it can be. But everything lays on the foundation laid before finnish.
Dont use shorta as an excuse to not mesure up to best that can be done standards.
Id tear out the door frame prehang it and start over, you can fit the door to the framing better the fit it to a frame. If the frame is this far out Fix it. That you can change.
Once you cut parts of the door to fit
It cant be moved without changing it back.
I kinda disagree with dealing with a poorly hung frame like this.
IT IS FAR OUT FOR TRAINING PURPOSES
He built the faming (in his filming studio) so as to illustrate techniques for dealing with problems one might run up against in the field. He is not advocating trimming doors as opposed to fixing framing.
................talk toooooo much just get to the point!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks. I got a lot of good tips!
i used to hang about 15 to 18 doors a day with hand chisels a wooden hammer cordless drill and a hand plain. how many power tools and gadgets does this chap need.
You only hang 15-18 doors a day? Well, there you go. I couldn't make a living doing that. All my door-hanging gear (kit) fits inside my door bench. I walk it into the job and walk it out, slide it into my truck, and I'm gone. I'm only responding to your comments (all three of the last ones I've noticed), because I don't want other views/readers to be mislead by what you're saying.
Gary please don't respond to the Russian trolls!