That’s a masterpiece. Your an artist. When I seen it was 11min long I thought there is no way I’m watching this whole video. But then after I started watching and seen the quality of work you do I had to see it all. Watched it till The end. Simply outstanding.
Thanks Russ. Actually this was not to terribly difficult. I just corrected everything ruggedmade could of/should of from the factory. On the other hand my built from scratch splitter was😆
Steve Thiel thanks. Yeah I can’t say how much faster/better it is than Oem cause I modified it right out of the box....but yeah it’s well worth the money even in stock form I’m sure.
Really dig your thinking and upgrading. One question I thought I saw a bolt on back of the 4way. If your system doesn’t move in this set up type. How about using that screw as a height fixture ?
How has the Log Splitter been holding up over the years? I notice it’s a rugged made but what size is it? 28 ton or 37 tons? I like the upgrades that you’ve made. I am thinking of purchasing one of these Log Splitter’s.
Is there any way you could put together the exact parts needed to put an auto valve on a rugged made 700 series. I’m seeing a ton of videos but I’m still confused. Thanks
Lots of thought went into your mods. With the wider outfeed table you made, making it fold back on itself like your log lift does might help with towing and turning. Good video!
I just watched again your video! I realize that you don't have any radiator. But I know you may only need to run the splitter for 30 minutes before you fill your 3pt log hauler. How much gallons is the tank? How long can you run the splitter before the oil gets too warm? If ever it gets too warm! Thanks!
From Steel To Wood yup no radiator. Tank is @ 13 gal. Warmest I seen so far is 130F. And that was some big hard splitting for an hour with 65F ambient air
New subscriber here! Only viewed the first video yet! I just bought the same 28 gals / 2 phase pump from Surplus Center. I can't wait to mount that on my splitter. I like your ideas of a homemade manifold and also the pilot dump valve. I wish I had chosen the larger rod cylinder back then. I have the 5 in bore / 2 in rod basic cylinder. Anyways, I am going to upgrade from a 12 gal pump to the 28 gals, which should help a lot. I have the 15hp engine, so it should work if the valve is limited to 2,200 psi. Enough writing! Thanks for sharing this!
From Steel To Wood thanks for subscribing. Yep engine handles pump just fine. Be sure you valve(s) can handle the volume too. As for benefit of the dump valve it won’t make much difference in your cylinder being it only a 2 “ rod. My calcs come out to 33-34 gpm return out of base port. On my splitter it’s @55gpm. Dump makes a good bit of difference.
Right! 33.3 periodic. Lol! No much gain on speed indeed. My valve is having 1/2 work ports. So a dump valve might reduce heat generation. Although I might try first to add a cooling unit (homemade of course!). I don't operate this splitter 24/7 after all... Only for 20 face cord/year. Thanks!
From Steel To Wood I you might as well throw on that order from surplus center a auto cycle valve too! That sure is nice not having to hold valve lever
Hi Garny.. Great video.. I have a 28 ton dirty hands wood splitter that i want to modify with a lift and back table like yours... Love it and wood make it so much more user friendly.. Thank you!! The only other thing i would advise is to look into the Amsoil Synthetic Multi-Viscosity Hydraulic Oil - ISO 46 .. That's the stuff mine takes.. My system runs so much cooler, and the protection is unmatched.. I am a dealer and would be happy to send it to you at my cost which is 146.00 per five gallon.. you wont believe the difference... Thanks again for the video L.T. Dan
hi again . what another good job , hydraulic wizard for sure . i have been watching your videos and know all ready of your other splitter . the table method may work on this one if you were to remove the bottom foot on the log lift and put adjustable leg for support then take the wing off that side just the high part . than you have a platform for a bucket load of wood . then only 1 step to the rounds and no steps to the splitter . no lifting of large rounds . no more walking back and forth loading rounds on the lifter . do you have a loader bucket . saw your new splitter so all of this probley doesn't really matter now . next a up side down splitter john
John the stationary table idea is a dead issue for me. I rarely build things to be stationary. It may work well for you and your setup. I cut and split all wood in my forest. Minimal ground disturbance and all trash stays in the woods. I don’t want my dooryard to turn into a dirt farm and then have to clean up trash and sawdust to only have to haul it back into the woods. I’m fortunate that my forest terrain allows for me to do this. There is already a custom made vertical splitter in my family. I hope to do a comparison video between it and my splitter in the near future. We talk a lot of trash back and forth about who’s is best. All in good fun. There is also a homemade processor built by another uncle with a ingenious bar engagement. It is a repurposed clutch and pressure plate from a Ford escort and it’s powered by a Peugeot diesel running fast it sounds like a Detroit. Those Peugeot’s are tough little engines.
@@garny3766 i know what you mean about trash clean up you r wright . everyones has different needs so what ever works best is best . i like wood processors rented 2 times but didn't work hear but they are slick look forward to your videos because you a great fabricator love to see that new splitter in splitter wars next year john
Tim Engle remove the threaded elbow fittings that are screwed into the log lift cylinder ports. Cylinder ports are just a threaded boss coupling welded onto the cylinder. Once fittings are removed you’ll see the little port hole that needs to be drilled out.
Outside with Scheib www.surpluscenter.com/Brands/Zinga/3-4-NPT-Zinga-TBN310-Reservoir-Breather-9-8457.axd And www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Adapters-Fittings/Weld-in-Tank-Flanges/3-4-NPT-Stamped-Weld-In-Tank-Flange-9-7844-12.axd I’ve used this company for years for all my hydraulic and some mechanical needs.
After you opened up the cylinder ports, did it no longer run against the relief? I just assembled and used my 737 this weekend and I noticed that fluid leaks out from the spool from the main cylinder valve due to the high pressure running through it to the log lift valve. I am going to call Ruggedmade today about the leak.
J Huck it still will run against the relief. Instead of 3-4 seconds it’s like 1-2 sec. back out the detent on the log lift valve to. Back off adjustment bolt just enough (but don’t remove) so you don’t feel the detent when pulling back on lever. If you seen the end of my newest video order a new spider for your engine to pump coupling. There’s too much power being transferred for the stock buna rubber to handle.
@@garny3766 thanks for the info. Ruggedmade very quickly sent me a valve to replace the leaking main cylinder unit. I will still look at the detent option that you mentioned. Regarding the modification to the lift cylinder, are you happy with the new speed or do you wish you would have left it stock? I agree it could be faster but it appears that a small change in port size can really change things.
J Huck very happy with it. Glad I did it. I did add a longer handle to the valve to give smoother control though. The purpose of doing this mod was...1, increase in lift speed...and 2, limit the amount of time oil is passing thru the relief valve. That’s where the oil gets heated up quicker and my opinion it’s just harder on all plumbing involved when your maxing out pressures.
IIRC the valves are identical. You can switch which side the log lift goes on. What I see when plumbing splitters is you want to have splitter cylinder as first use and everything else as secondary. I would say its possible to do just that you might have to get some hoses made to accomplish this. The hoses that are with machine are pretty length specific for plumbing the primary loop.
Glad I found your videos! I have the same cylinder on a homemade splitter w/28 gpm pump. Quickly learned that I’ll want to add that dump valve. When you added the extra port on the cylinder, did you take the rod out or just extend and drain it?
Almost everything you've done to your splitter has fixed a problem or a nuisance in design of the ruggedmade splitters that I've encountered while using mine. Although simple, I must say I love your idea for the wedge holder in front of the motor...
Dude Ranch DIY I tried to cure all the “problems” I seen from watching YT vids before I even used it. Bang for buck, I’d say it’s hard to beat. Cylinder dimension is what sold me.
Nice mod job! I see you have the same disease I have, you can't buy anything without having to modify it before you use it! LOL I have the Ruggedmade version of this splitter with similar modes. I like your manifolds, I tee'd mine and don't have the dump valve. I agree the tank needs to be bigger, mostly if used in the heat of summer. See you also extended the wing tips. I like the folding lift table, good idea and ez to do. I modded my existing push off table too , didn't like it's issues either, but do like it's tube design because it allows a lot of debre to fall through before it on the conveyor. I set a hvy duty utility sled uder it to catch most debrees. I subsciped and can't wait for more vids!
Thanks Dan. Yeah pretty much my life story. It’s a blessing and a curse! Most of the time my mouth cant keep up with my thoughts! I do have a video of it in operation if you haven’t seen it yet...th-cam.com/video/5dPZMQK1WqE/w-d-xo.html. The tube design does have its place as you stated pushing onto a conveyor. I did not modify the end of the of the I beam so if I wanted to put the original table back on all I have to do is unbolt my table and pin original table back on. Most of the time this is how I head to the woods. Cut tree, block up, Split and load, Move on, repeat. All trash stays in the woods. Dump valve is a must with this design. With running the 28 gpm pump I return @ 56-58 gpms out the base port. IIRC the calc. Flow is @ 43 gpms with stock 22gpm pump. Not ideal for a log splitter valve that is designed for 25 gpms! The motor handles the 28gpm pump no problem. In total I have @ $4200 in this.
Just curious as to what you do that you have these talents for all the mods? Still would love to know about a drawing for the steel catch and side steel add on, please. Do you have a link for the parts you modified on the tank ( i.e. breathers, fill gauge, 3” opening for the fluid, etc.) Thanks again, it was my pleasure watching you. Oh, do you ever take a telephone call with a question?
You did a great job on the mods to this splitter. I just purchased a similar one and would like to borrow some of your ideas. Where did you get those breathers, I haven't found that type online yet. Did you use the stock holes in the frame for your table pivot?
Tim Engle the pump, dump valve, and tank mods were pretty easy. The catch table and tongue were a little more involved. I purchased this machine for $3140 right to the loading dock. I stuck another $1k in it. Future mods are gonna be wedge and push block. I really like the 30” ram.
The plumbing job looks like squidwards tentacles. I'm a firm believer in those powersplit woodsplitters that you don't even have to modify. -from the person in this house who actually cares about wood splitters🤣
Morgan Noth I agree those PS splitters are the cats meow. I was gonna go that way but being a right foot amputee I can’t run that splitter cause I’ll fall down. 🤔😆 I’ll stick with the tried and true high speed horizontal splitter. 😉 If you’re close by maybe we’ll have to make a video comparison of a PS and mine. Viewers I’m sure would like to see that.
@@garny3766 I realize now that I should have said the person who actually cares about the wood splitters wasn't and probably never will be me, I'm just a messenger. Oops🤣😆
That’s a masterpiece. Your an artist.
When I seen it was 11min long I thought there is no way I’m watching this whole video. But then after I started watching and seen the quality of work you do I had to see it all. Watched it till
The end. Simply outstanding.
Thanks Russ. Actually this was not to terribly difficult. I just corrected everything ruggedmade could of/should of from the factory. On the other hand my built from scratch splitter was😆
Awesome fab job, nice upgrade to the splitter.
Garny, you are doing great keep at it and your followers will add up quickly.
The reason is you do things that we want to see.
Like the improvements, makes a good splitter even better!
Steve Thiel thanks. Yeah I can’t say how much faster/better it is than Oem cause I modified it right out of the box....but yeah it’s well worth the money even in stock form I’m sure.
Really dig your thinking and upgrading. One question I thought I saw a bolt on back of the 4way. If your system doesn’t move in this set up type. How about using that screw as a height fixture ?
How has the Log Splitter been holding up over the years? I notice it’s a rugged made but what size is it? 28 ton or 37 tons?
I like the upgrades that you’ve made. I am thinking of purchasing one of these Log Splitter’s.
Just found this channel, well impressed! Really good quality videos, love the improvements to the stock splitter
Is there any way you could put together the exact parts needed to put an auto valve on a rugged made 700 series. I’m seeing a ton of videos but I’m still confused. Thanks
You did a nice job on that machine, can't wait to see it run
Thanks A.L.L. Firewood. They’re in the pipeline. I’m trying to figure out video editing now! This vid I winged in @ 15 minutes.
Garny yeah we are still figuring out how to make videos as well lol
Well...here it is in action. Yeah, editing is gonna need some work yet. th-cam.com/video/5dPZMQK1WqE/w-d-xo.html
Lots of thought went into your mods. With the wider outfeed table you made, making it fold back on itself like your log lift does might help with towing and turning. Good video!
Thanks Billjust Bill. Wait until you see my next project. It’s a wood splitter and it’s unique
Any chance of doing an up close detailed video of your front log table hinge setup? Thanks
Todd, no I can’t. I no longer have this splitter.
Do you mind sharing the part number for the auto cycle valve? Great design changes to the original.
www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Directional-Control-Valves/Prince-Auto-Cycle-Log-Splitter-Valve-w-Power-Beyond-RD523MMEE5A4C1-9-6587-PB.axd
@@garny3766 Thank you, wish you the best with your channel. Dont forget to ask viewers to like and subscribe so you may be rewarded for you work.
Good job. You should do a video on how the controls are plumbed and why you have a dump valve etc.
th-cam.com/video/jqTHnQDzP9w/w-d-xo.html
A lot of great mods, G. I'll check splitter out more in your other videos. Have a pleasant Resurrection Day. Full-watch.
Well impressed.😮
I just watched again your video! I realize that you don't have any radiator. But I know you may only need to run the splitter for 30 minutes before you fill your 3pt log hauler. How much gallons is the tank? How long can you run the splitter before the oil gets too warm? If ever it gets too warm! Thanks!
From Steel To Wood yup no radiator. Tank is @ 13 gal. Warmest I seen so far is 130F. And that was some big hard splitting for an hour with 65F ambient air
New subscriber here! Only viewed the first video yet! I just bought the same 28 gals / 2 phase pump from Surplus Center. I can't wait to mount that on my splitter. I like your ideas of a homemade manifold and also the pilot dump valve. I wish I had chosen the larger rod cylinder back then. I have the 5 in bore / 2 in rod basic cylinder. Anyways, I am going to upgrade from a 12 gal pump to the 28 gals, which should help a lot. I have the 15hp engine, so it should work if the valve is limited to 2,200 psi. Enough writing! Thanks for sharing this!
From Steel To Wood thanks for subscribing. Yep engine handles pump just fine. Be sure you valve(s) can handle the volume too. As for benefit of the dump valve it won’t make much difference in your cylinder being it only a 2 “ rod. My calcs come out to 33-34 gpm return out of base port. On my splitter it’s @55gpm. Dump makes a good bit of difference.
Right! 33.3 periodic. Lol! No much gain on speed indeed. My valve is having 1/2 work ports. So a dump valve might reduce heat generation. Although I might try first to add a cooling unit (homemade of course!). I don't operate this splitter 24/7 after all... Only for 20 face cord/year. Thanks!
From Steel To Wood I you might as well throw on that order from surplus center a auto cycle valve too! That sure is nice not having to hold valve lever
Hi Garny.. Great video.. I have a 28 ton dirty hands wood splitter that i want to modify with a lift and back table like yours... Love it and wood make it so much more user friendly.. Thank you!! The only other thing i would advise is to look into the Amsoil Synthetic Multi-Viscosity Hydraulic Oil - ISO 46 .. That's the stuff mine takes.. My system runs so much cooler, and the protection is unmatched.. I am a dealer and would be happy to send it to you at my cost which is 146.00 per five gallon.. you wont believe the difference... Thanks again for the video L.T. Dan
Thanks. I no longer have this splitter. My new home built holds plenty of oil. Yes amsoil is good stuff.
hi again . what another good job , hydraulic wizard for sure . i have been watching your videos and know all ready of your other splitter . the table method may work on this one if you were to remove the bottom foot on the log lift and put adjustable leg for support then take the wing off that side just the high part . than you have a platform for a bucket load of wood . then only 1 step to the rounds and no steps to the splitter . no lifting of large rounds . no more walking back and forth loading rounds on the lifter . do you have a loader bucket . saw your new splitter so all of this probley doesn't really matter now . next a up side down splitter john
John the stationary table idea is a dead issue for me. I rarely build things to be stationary. It may work well for you and your setup. I cut and split all wood in my forest. Minimal ground disturbance and all trash stays in the woods. I don’t want my dooryard to turn into a dirt farm and then have to clean up trash and sawdust to only have to haul it back into the woods. I’m fortunate that my forest terrain allows for me to do this.
There is already a custom made vertical splitter in my family. I hope to do a comparison video between it and my splitter in the near future. We talk a lot of trash back and forth about who’s is best. All in good fun. There is also a homemade processor built by another uncle with a ingenious bar engagement. It is a repurposed clutch and pressure plate from a Ford escort and it’s powered by a Peugeot diesel running fast it sounds like a Detroit. Those Peugeot’s are tough little engines.
@@garny3766 i know what you mean about trash clean up you r wright . everyones has different needs so what ever works best is best . i like wood processors rented 2 times but didn't work hear but they are slick look forward to your videos because you a great fabricator love to see that new splitter in splitter wars next year john
what brand and model of dump valve did you use
Thanks for the great video and all the help. One last question, what do you drill out on the log lift cylinder?
Tim Engle remove the threaded elbow fittings that are screwed into the log lift cylinder ports. Cylinder ports are just a threaded boss coupling welded onto the cylinder. Once fittings are removed you’ll see the little port hole that needs to be drilled out.
Garny thank you for all your help! You rock.
Where did you get the filter breathers and how do they mount just 3/4 npt?
Outside with Scheib www.surpluscenter.com/Brands/Zinga/3-4-NPT-Zinga-TBN310-Reservoir-Breather-9-8457.axd
And
www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Adapters-Fittings/Weld-in-Tank-Flanges/3-4-NPT-Stamped-Weld-In-Tank-Flange-9-7844-12.axd
I’ve used this company for years for all my hydraulic and some mechanical needs.
After you opened up the cylinder ports, did it no longer run against the relief? I just assembled and used my 737 this weekend and I noticed that fluid leaks out from the spool from the main cylinder valve due to the high pressure running through it to the log lift valve. I am going to call Ruggedmade today about the leak.
J Huck it still will run against the relief. Instead of 3-4 seconds it’s like 1-2 sec. back out the detent on the log lift valve to. Back off adjustment bolt just enough (but don’t remove) so you don’t feel the detent when pulling back on lever. If you seen the end of my newest video order a new spider for your engine to pump coupling. There’s too much power being transferred for the stock buna rubber to handle.
@@garny3766 thanks for the info. Ruggedmade very quickly sent me a valve to replace the leaking main cylinder unit. I will still look at the detent option that you mentioned. Regarding the modification to the lift cylinder, are you happy with the new speed or do you wish you would have left it stock? I agree it could be faster but it appears that a small change in port size can really change things.
J Huck very happy with it. Glad I did it. I did add a longer handle to the valve to give smoother control though. The purpose of doing this mod was...1, increase in lift speed...and 2, limit the amount of time oil is passing thru the relief valve. That’s where the oil gets heated up quicker and my opinion it’s just harder on all plumbing involved when your maxing out pressures.
Where can I drop off my 27 ton Champion?..
Question, do you know if I can switch the cylinder valve and the log lift valve hose routing depending on which side you put the log lift on?
IIRC the valves are identical. You can switch which side the log lift goes on. What I see when plumbing splitters is you want to have splitter cylinder as first use and everything else as secondary. I would say its possible to do just that you might have to get some hoses made to accomplish this. The hoses that are with machine are pretty length specific for plumbing the primary loop.
That’s what I thought but I wanted advice from someone with more knowledge thank me! Thank you!
Tim Engle contact Outside with Scheib. He may have more knowledge on this topic as he added extra valve on his ruggedmade 37 ton
Glad I found your videos! I have the same cylinder on a homemade splitter w/28 gpm pump. Quickly learned that I’ll want to add that dump valve. When you added the extra port on the cylinder, did you take the rod out or just extend and drain it?
Builder Ben I just pulled the rod out about a foot. I did I not have to drain it. It was brand new. Compressed air can be a good friend in this task.
Almost everything you've done to your splitter has fixed a problem or a nuisance in design of the ruggedmade splitters that I've encountered while using mine. Although simple, I must say I love your idea for the wedge holder in front of the motor...
Dude Ranch DIY I tried to cure all the “problems” I seen from watching YT vids before I even used it. Bang for buck, I’d say it’s hard to beat. Cylinder dimension is what sold me.
It appears you’ve fixed most of them! Started the mods on my splitter today...excited to see how it turns out
Can you give me the part number for the auto cycle valve please
Nice mod job! I see you have the same disease I have, you can't buy anything without having to modify it before you use it! LOL
I have the Ruggedmade version of this splitter with similar modes. I like your manifolds, I tee'd mine and don't have the dump valve. I agree the tank needs to be bigger, mostly if used in the heat of summer.
See you also extended the wing tips. I like the folding lift table, good idea and ez to do.
I modded my existing push off table too , didn't like it's issues either, but do like it's tube design because it allows a lot of debre to fall through before it on the conveyor. I set a hvy duty utility sled uder it to catch most debrees. I subsciped and can't wait for more vids!
Thanks Dan. Yeah pretty much my life story. It’s a blessing and a curse! Most of the time my mouth cant keep up with my thoughts! I do have a video of it in operation if you haven’t seen it yet...th-cam.com/video/5dPZMQK1WqE/w-d-xo.html. The tube design does have its place as you stated pushing onto a conveyor. I did not modify the end of the of the I beam so if I wanted to put the original table back on all I have to do is unbolt my table and pin original table back on. Most of the time this is how I head to the woods. Cut tree, block up, Split and load, Move on, repeat. All trash stays in the woods. Dump valve is a must with this design. With running the 28 gpm pump I return @ 56-58 gpms out the base port. IIRC the calc. Flow is @ 43 gpms with stock 22gpm pump. Not ideal for a log splitter valve that is designed for 25 gpms! The motor handles the 28gpm pump no problem. In total I have @ $4200 in this.
Just curious as to what you do that you have these talents for all the mods? Still would love to know about a drawing for the steel catch and side steel add on, please. Do you have a link for the parts you modified on the tank ( i.e. breathers, fill gauge, 3” opening for the fluid, etc.) Thanks again, it was my pleasure watching you. Oh, do you ever take a telephone call with a question?
It’s in the blood and simply...observation. Most of my hydraulic parts came from www.surpluscenter.com/
@@garny3766 thanks for surplus source. What do you do for a living that you are as talented as you are?
You did a great job on the mods to this splitter. I just purchased a similar one and would like to borrow some of your ideas. Where did you get those breathers, I haven't found that type online yet. Did you use the stock holes in the frame for your table pivot?
Breathers from Surplus Center. Yes stock holes used.
Excellent! If I buy one would you modify mine? 😉
Tim Engle the pump, dump valve, and tank mods were pretty easy. The catch table and tongue were a little more involved. I purchased this machine for $3140 right to the loading dock. I stuck another $1k in it. Future mods are gonna be wedge and push block. I really like the 30” ram.
The plumbing job looks like squidwards tentacles. I'm a firm believer in those powersplit woodsplitters that you don't even have to modify.
-from the person in this house who actually cares about wood splitters🤣
Morgan Noth I agree those PS splitters are the cats meow. I was gonna go that way but being a right foot amputee I can’t run that splitter cause I’ll fall down. 🤔😆 I’ll stick with the tried and true high speed horizontal splitter. 😉 If you’re close by maybe we’ll have to make a video comparison of a PS and mine. Viewers I’m sure would like to see that.
@@garny3766 I realize now that I should have said the person who actually cares about the wood splitters wasn't and probably never will be me, I'm just a messenger. Oops🤣😆
Morgan Noth you say that now but just wait, it’s addicting. It gets in your blood. You’ll be hooked like me and that other person in your house🤣
Since you built splitterzylla, can I buy your log table?
Tim sorry I gave it to a guy to try on his. Haven’t seen any money yet.
@@garny3766 if it falls through, let me know.
Awesome job
What make and model was this originally?
Ruggedmade 37 ton
What thickness is your table?
9 gauge
Thanks
You didn't tell us about welding wings on the splitter wings. 🙂
Jerry, yeah I forgot. Someone awhile back asked about that too. But yeah I added on @2.5-3” of 1055 on each wing.
nice mods
They have tounge on th wrong end. I have one and i changed it ! Jerry Buck
It’s not the wrong just it should be on both ends