Just found your channel a few weeks ago but i started an LS2 Swap on a 34’ Hudson a few years ago ran one of those filters and immediately leaked. I searched for a few others but could find anything that wouldnt leak until i came across one that had the “fittings” fixed on the filter it self. It also worked way better when really tightening it. Hope it helps even if a little late😅
Thanks Jesus. When we put that video out we thought we would get comments from people saying how much they loved that filter. Most of the feedback was similar to your experience. I may try one on one of our own trucks sometime, but will absolutely not put one on a customers. Thanks for your comment. We appreciate you watching. Jerry and Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience love the videos now i got a 1982 C10 im trying to put a 2002 5.3 in it. The exact filter i ran on the Hudson was from summit Part Number: HLY-162-591. That was 5 years ago and still no leak to be found. Going to be running it on my c10 as well 👍
I have been swapping LS's into other vehicles for 15 years and on the Corvette reg/filter issue I have had great luck but I only have used Wix parts except for the first one which was a generic unit supplied from Speedway Motors. As far as I know they are all still working great, that being said there can be a lemon in every production run. I have used 6 of them in deadheaded systems, mostly on stock junkyard installs from a '52 Chevy Deluxe and a 71 Buick LeSabre convertible to a '91 Chevy 1500 without issue. I always use Russel fittings and ran hard line for fuel supply even on other installs with return line systems and separate regulator / filters. Just like other problems there are many ways to skin a cat.
I make a point to not mention brands in the videos but in this case the one that leaked on me was a WIX filter with Fragola fittings. Both brands I use every day with no problems and will continue to. I did try different fittings with the same result. Hopefully I just got a dud. Thanks Jerry
After watching your videos I decided to do it a bit differently. I did the pump wiring the same, but did in-tank regulators to avoid all the return line mess. Allowed me to also use the oem switch to power the relay for each pump and avoided the need for the second relay for tank sending units.
@@UglyTruckExperience being I had good condition un-baffled tanks, I went with the Holley in-tank efi conversion (not cheap sadly) which has the regulator on the side of the pickup in the tank. Their part number for the regulator is 12-878 but it snaps into a housing on the pickup tube, with that housing you could likely make your own. My other thought was two external regulators, one on each side, with shorter return loops to each tank that feed into the same check-ball/Y setup you have.
Ok. I get it. I did the two regulator setup on my 74 K10 and it works great. The cost is always the issue. The regulators that I use are over 200 a piece, so I opt to go with the extra relay. The setup you have with the efi conversion sounds really nice. If I was doing my own and cost was no issue, I would go that route. Much simpler. Thanks for the info and we appreciate you watching. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience Did you run baffled tanks? Mine being a 78 didn't have baffled tanks so when weighing price of tank + efi sending unit + pump + regulator (even cheap corvette ones) I was about breaking even for a drop-in holley solution utilizing their hydramat instead of baffles. The only really "budget" option I found was a reservoir system like FiTech has. But with how unreliable the oem tank switch system is, no guarantee you will ever actually have two tanks! lol
No. No baffles in mine. At the time that I did it I was squeezing every penny I had. I also drive like a 90 year old man and keep the tanks full. If I was to replace one of them today I would just go with the 87 tank. You couldn't be more correct about the OEM switch. Jerry
Please don't fall into the bottomless pit of comments. Ya'll are better than that. I have been building turbo bikes for over 45 years, doesn't mean I know it all, but we learn from each other. You are a very SMART man, with a beyond beautiful lady, and loving puppy dogs, and a very successful business, do ya'lls thing, and never ever stress the wanna bees on TH-cam. Ya'll are better than that. I have been wanting to put up videos and share my experiences and knowledge as well, but I have thin skin when I know I'm right. You're so much better than me, and I thank you. God bless 🙌 Jerry, the love of my life passed away from Cancer, and she was 20 years younger than me, I ain't never recovered from that. GOD BLESS 🙌
Thanks for all of your very nice comments. You mentioned Tammy in one of your other comments and I couldn't even begin to think about how terrible that would be to lose her. I will have to take a look back at that video and see where my complaints are directed. I think I was directing them towards the parts themselves and trying to relay where my dislike for them comes from. We really like all of the comments that we get no matter if they are good or bad or just informational. When I choose to take somebody's advice that is always on me to learn from. I hope our videos are entertaining most of all and if people learn something from them that is a huge bonus. I really just want more people to be interested in the auto industry, the kind of work that we both do and quite watching Dancing With The Stars and The Bachelor. TH-cam has so much more to offer. Thanks Again... Jerry
I found your channel about a month and a half ago and I enjoy all of your content. Jerry has a wealth of knowledge and as much as I hate LS swaps because people just put them in everything at least watching your videos they could be done right. Look forward to the next one.
LS swaps are great, but we understand they're not for everyone. We love everything mechanical, and we want to show that there's something to learn from all of it. We appreciate you watching! 😁 --Emily
Whoa! Hold Up! The title never said anything about learning. I'd like to register a complaint. It's Friday. My brains already full. Great video as always.👍🇨🇦
Great video y’all! I truly appreciate all of the work and info that you put out. I do have a question about this setup though. If your running on on the right tank, both tanks are full, and the valve fails…. Would it not switch back to and overfill the left tank? I suppose the easy answer is don’t run the right tank if the left tank is full, but I have to wonder if there’s another way to go about this. Thanks again for all that y’all do, and keep up the great work!
Hello Shawn. I have had that happen and it does fill the left tank fairly quickly. I started running a 1/2 fuel line from tank to tank that connects at the filler tube, just in case that happens. The times that it happened to me, the left tank was empty at the time when I started on the right tank, so the added fuel to it just ended up me running out of fuel on the right. The systems that I do now will have their own regulator for each tank and eliminate that possible problem. I didn't have the budget to do that in the beginning and now I just insist on it when I take on a swap for someone. Jerry
Love the videos and appreciate the time you spend on explaining both the fuel and electrical side if this build. Question i have is the switch in the cab.. can i use the stock type dual tank switch to activate the pump and the gauge? If so how would I wire that up? Thanks again
Depending on which switch you have, yes. It needs to be a 2 position toggle switch. That's something we've had a lot of questions about, so we'll have a video on that very soon! Thanks for tuning in!
Awesome. So I did an LS swap on my 80 with the carb selector valve. I couldn’t figure out out to plumb it for fuel tanks with the EFI so I decided to go to carb instead of blowing the truck up. Which is one of the reasons I did the carb conversion with a TBI fuel pumps. This is an awesome way to hook it up……… is there some relays in the factory ls fuse box you could have used to keep everything contained? I like the independent relays. Adds to the nostalgia of the truck! Great work guys.
Yes, we absolutely could use a relay that is in that fuse box already. There are quite a few of them in there that are not being used any longer. This was definitely the easiest way to do this though. I worry about people having to work on them in the future so I try to do it in a way that I would be able to figure it out if it was brought to me for repair. If it was my truck I would use relays from the original box for sure. Would make for a great video. Thanks for watching. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience I’ll keep that in mind. When I did my initial harness before carb, I used some really cheap fuse block and relay holders and it was garbage and ugly….. I also like how you adapted everything from the suburban into the truck. I am going to steal some of your ideas……. Have you thought of a way to hook up the AC? I know with DBC throttle bodies, the only needs to see a 5v reference and it adjusts the idle. Idk about the DBW. Also, do you have a video covering the pedal you used?
I'm going to be wiring up the AC on it this weekend actually and we will put a video out on that also. The accelerator pedal is something we have never recorded but should. I like to use the OEM pedal that is adjustable from these suburbans. It has a shorter throw and feels much more like the pedal travel from the original carburetor. I modify them and bolt them into the original 3 bolt holes. Thanks Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience well I can’t wait for the video. I’m taking notes for some of the stuff I haven’t thought of but you did. I like figuring stuff out rather than buying a kit. It takes the fun away and plus, if I ever have to troubleshoot wiring later on, ill know it by heart or most of it
I'm struggling and stressed out of my mind with my 87 R10 dual tank set up! After watching your video on the C5 Corvette filter regulators rant. I too don't feel comfortable using them now. So now I'm back to square one. I am willing to donate my project to you for the simple fact that I don't think you've actually had a 1987 R10 on any of your very informative videos lol. (Joking not joking 😄) I'm at my wits end. Please helllllllp me! By the way, I've had several mechanics just cheat me out of my hard earned $. I just brought it back from last mechanic that promised me it would be done in 6 weeks and he had it 4 months and never touched it. In a seriousness, I would love to take it to you. Let me know what you think. Love your videos. You have a big fan from Lubbock Texas! God bless y'all!
Oh by the way, have you done a video using PSI Conversion standalone wiring harness, ECU and Dakota Digital Dash, because that's what I'm trying to use. You think this could be an interesting video idea? Thanks again.
The rocker switch only works with the original style switch valve. By pushing on the rocker it moves those valves to another position and then when you let off the rocker it stays in that selected spot. I don't use that valve so I have to use a switch that stays open or closed. I have another one coming up and will make a point to talk about that more. Thanks Joey
What is the part number for the tank switch ? . Do you have any pictures of the fuel line from the fuel rail to the frame you show it going down the transmission thanks again.
The switch I use is a DS1807 Standard. I use the donor motor fuel lines running down the side of transmission and am not sure if there are any shots of it. Thanks Frank, we are going to be doing another fuel system wiring really soon. We appreciate you watching. Jerry and Emily.
Very informative video. Can you tell me where the pink wire on the dual tank switch picks up power? I do not see it labeled on the fuse block. I assume it's on the ignition side ( I don't have a battery in my truck to ck)? Is it a big enough wire to handle the current and voltage for the new pumps?
1986, OEM factory fuse block. Factory Dual tank switch .The truck is untouched all factory until now The engine harness is a New Speartech. The gray fuel pump wire out of their harness is probably a #16 (LS 5.3 out of a 2006 Avalanche). Tanks are from Tanks inc. complete kit.
I would use the grey wire that comes out of your new harness to turn a relay on that supplies power to the fuel pumps through a fused power with key on and cranking. Buy a tank switch for a 87 which is a toggle switch, not a rocker and use that switch to change tanks through a relay. That switch was not made to have the power going to a pump through it. We will be doing another video on this soon. Hope this helps. Jerry
Hi Mike! Here's a link to another video showing how we plumbed the fuel system, and the return valve. There's a parts list in the description of that video for everything we used. th-cam.com/video/HcaAvC2aOVY/w-d-xo.html We appreciate you watching! --Emily
The problem with running two tanks isnt wiring it so much...it is returning the fuel back to the same tank you are using. The best idea I have seen for fuel injection is running a IMCO valve that routes your return fuel back to whichever tank you are running. So a guy running drag week can run pump gas in one tank then switch his tune and tank over to race gas at the track.
I know this is a old video but do you remember where you got the relays and what gauge wire is in the 5 wire loom you have running down to the fuel pumps? thanks
Hello David. I run a 12 awg wire down to the fuel pump. The OEM is a 14 awg which works fine but that 12 will get power down there easily, especially if it is a longer run like on a long box or a Blazer. Here is a link to the relays that we buy. Thanks. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FSZWVT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yes you can. I have the right tank on my 74 as the primary also. You can do it how ever you prefer. Use a good high quality 12awg wire running that far to the pump. Thanks. Jerry
Here's a link to another video showing how we plumbed the fuel system and all the parts we used. There's a parts list in the description of that video. th-cam.com/video/HcaAvC2aOVY/w-d-xo.html We appreciate you tuning in!
What valve did you end up going with for the return setup? This is the point im at with my swap. Being relatively low pressure im thinking of using the stock carbureted tank selector valve for the return
I used a Standard Motor Product fv1t part for my fuel return. Using the stock valve for the return will work. I personally don't care for them but that's just my opinion which I have been told stinks sometimes. Thanks
@@UglyTruckExperience thank you for the reply. I was planning on that valve. I’ve also been told it won’t work by the internet experts… don’t see why it wouldnt
Unfortunately the aftermarket fittings are the problem. If you use a good master crimp tool or buy the hardline it would work fine. Especially when you bought a Delco or equivalent filter. I understand why you would get turned off since you are working on customer vehicles. Keep up the good work!
I was so excited to be putting these on. I thought all of my fuel supply troubles in the future we're over. Thanks for your comment and watching. Jerry
Woah! What happened!? Major continuity problem! I went to bed after watching the previous video in the series which was the marathon custom fuse box(es) wiring and subsequent cruz control video. Now it's the next moring and what am I looking at!? The entire wired custom fuse box is gone and replaced by what looks like the original LS donor wiring fuse box. For me it was overnight, but your time stamp suggests it was about 6 months for you. How'd you do that bit of magic?? I'd prefer to use the original fuse box as well, but it doesn't appear to have everything that is needed and I haven't found those little crimp pins for that 'C-connector' mate. So maybe a video on that. Also a video on the "DMV" reference you made. I'm trying to figure out how to title my 1981 LS-swapped C10.
We decided to switch that over to the oem fuse box because of some of the items that he wanted to add to it. Thanks for watching. I'm not sure what DMV reference you are asking about.
@@UglyTruckExperience Emily made a comment about the DMV in passing and it triggered me. I have no title for my 1981 C10 and the DMV gives me different answers on how to get a title, from "you can't" to "only if it is registered as antique" to "just register it. The rego functions as a title for cars that old." I haven't actually done it yet, but have plans for this spring to tackle the project. Hence my binge watching your fine collection of videos!
Each state is different and it seems like they change the rules occasionally. Here in a Missouri they have made it impossible to get a title in most cases. We have state vehicle inspections also, so I don't want somebody to modify their car or truck and then not put on road. I think a lot of older vehicles would be saved if it was a little easier. I hope things go smooth with yours.
Here's a link to another video showing how we plumbed the fuel system and all the parts we used. There's a parts list in the description of that video. th-cam.com/video/HcaAvC2aOVY/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching! --Emily
the problem you are having is with the china fitting you are putting on the filter. Had the same problem on my 69 camaro ls swap. got a name brand fitting and never had another problem. Holley now makes one that goes inside the tank. No return line needed at all.
I used top name brand fittings, who knows where they are made I guess. Will check out the Holley regulator. Wondering when someone would come up with an in tank. Thanks Jerry
Bummer. I have had good luck with my regulator/ filter. But if it puts a bad taste in your mouth I wouldn’t go back with the same product. If mine leaks, I will go a different as well.
A lot of people swear by them, but we just couldn't risk a fuel leak on a customer's vehicle. It is a much simpler system, so we may try it again someday. Thanks for watching!
How do I get an Ugly Truck tee shirt?
Thanks for watching! Here's a link! ugly-truck-experience.creator-spring.com/
Thank you.
I am happy to be part of the team working with you good people❤
We're glad to have you on the team! 😎 Thanks for tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
I love when Jerry shares the Jerry way with us. You can't go wrong with honest advice.
"The Jerry Way"... that has a nice ring to it! 😂 Thanks for watching!
Just found your channel a few weeks ago but i started an LS2 Swap on a 34’ Hudson a few years ago ran one of those filters and immediately leaked. I searched for a few others but could find anything that wouldnt leak until i came across one that had the “fittings” fixed on the filter it self. It also worked way better when really tightening it. Hope it helps even if a little late😅
Thanks Jesus. When we put that video out we thought we would get comments from people saying how much they loved that filter. Most of the feedback was similar to your experience. I may try one on one of our own trucks sometime, but will absolutely not put one on a customers. Thanks for your comment. We appreciate you watching. Jerry and Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience love the videos now i got a 1982 C10 im trying to put a 2002 5.3 in it. The exact filter i ran on the Hudson was from summit Part Number: HLY-162-591. That was 5 years ago and still no leak to be found. Going to be running it on my c10 as well 👍
I have been swapping LS's into other vehicles for 15 years and on the Corvette reg/filter issue I have had great luck but I only have used Wix parts except for the first one which was a generic unit supplied from Speedway Motors. As far as I know they are all still working great, that being said there can be a lemon in every production run. I have used 6 of them in deadheaded systems, mostly on stock junkyard installs from a '52 Chevy Deluxe and a 71 Buick LeSabre convertible to a '91 Chevy 1500 without issue. I always use Russel fittings and ran hard line for fuel supply even on other installs with return line systems and separate regulator / filters. Just like other problems there are many ways to skin a cat.
I make a point to not mention brands in the videos but in this case the one that leaked on me was a WIX filter with Fragola fittings. Both brands I use every day with no problems and will continue to. I did try different fittings with the same result. Hopefully I just got a dud. Thanks Jerry
After watching your videos I decided to do it a bit differently. I did the pump wiring the same, but did in-tank regulators to avoid all the return line mess. Allowed me to also use the oem switch to power the relay for each pump and avoided the need for the second relay for tank sending units.
Do you happen to know the part number for the regulator that you used. I have looked for them but haven't found them. Thanks DaWord. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience being I had good condition un-baffled tanks, I went with the Holley in-tank efi conversion (not cheap sadly) which has the regulator on the side of the pickup in the tank. Their part number for the regulator is 12-878 but it snaps into a housing on the pickup tube, with that housing you could likely make your own.
My other thought was two external regulators, one on each side, with shorter return loops to each tank that feed into the same check-ball/Y setup you have.
Ok. I get it. I did the two regulator setup on my 74 K10 and it works great. The cost is always the issue. The regulators that I use are over 200 a piece, so I opt to go with the extra relay. The setup you have with the efi conversion sounds really nice. If I was doing my own and cost was no issue, I would go that route. Much simpler. Thanks for the info and we appreciate you watching. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience Did you run baffled tanks? Mine being a 78 didn't have baffled tanks so when weighing price of tank + efi sending unit + pump + regulator (even cheap corvette ones) I was about breaking even for a drop-in holley solution utilizing their hydramat instead of baffles. The only really "budget" option I found was a reservoir system like FiTech has. But with how unreliable the oem tank switch system is, no guarantee you will ever actually have two tanks! lol
No. No baffles in mine. At the time that I did it I was squeezing every penny I had. I also drive like a 90 year old man and keep the tanks full. If I was to replace one of them today I would just go with the 87 tank. You couldn't be more correct about the OEM switch. Jerry
Please don't fall into the bottomless pit of comments. Ya'll are better than that. I have been building turbo bikes for over 45 years, doesn't mean I know it all, but we learn from each other. You are a very SMART man, with a beyond beautiful lady, and loving puppy dogs, and a very successful business, do ya'lls thing, and never ever stress the wanna bees on TH-cam. Ya'll are better than that. I have been wanting to put up videos and share my experiences and knowledge as well, but I have thin skin when I know I'm right. You're so much better than me, and I thank you. God bless 🙌
Jerry, the love of my life passed away from Cancer, and she was 20 years younger than me, I ain't never recovered from that. GOD BLESS 🙌
Thanks for all of your very nice comments. You mentioned Tammy in one of your other comments and I couldn't even begin to think about how terrible that would be to lose her. I will have to take a look back at that video and see where my complaints are directed. I think I was directing them towards the parts themselves and trying to relay where my dislike for them comes from. We really like all of the comments that we get no matter if they are good or bad or just informational. When I choose to take somebody's advice that is always on me to learn from. I hope our videos are entertaining most of all and if people learn something from them that is a huge bonus. I really just want more people to be interested in the auto industry, the kind of work that we both do and quite watching Dancing With The Stars and The Bachelor. TH-cam has so much more to offer. Thanks Again... Jerry
I found your channel about a month and a half ago and I enjoy all of your content. Jerry has a wealth of knowledge and as much as I hate LS swaps because people just put them in everything at least watching your videos they could be done right. Look forward to the next one.
LS swaps are great, but we understand they're not for everyone. We love everything mechanical, and we want to show that there's something to learn from all of it. We appreciate you watching! 😁 --Emily
I really like your videos all of them from the beginning the intro song the ending everything keep it up
Thanks so much Kloco! We appreciate you watching our stuff!
Thank you for sharing another great video with lots of interesting ideas and information.
Thanks for watching! There's always something to learn!
I love all your content. Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge with us. I sure can't understand why your not at 500k subscribers by now.
Thanks for watching! 500k subscribers sounds awesome and scary all at the same time! 😂😵
Look at that cute little doggo! Love their little curly fro
That's Juice with the fro, and Ripley with the blue eyes! They keep us in line! 😁 Thanks for watching!
This Is My Guy!!! The Easyest To Learn From If You Welling To Listen
Thanks John! We appreciate you watching!
Thanks for the video. This is what I been waiting to learn about.
Thanks for watching! Hope it was helpful! 👍
Whoa! Hold Up! The title never said anything about learning. I'd like to register a complaint. It's Friday. My brains already full. Great video as always.👍🇨🇦
🤣🤣🤣 Maybe I should put a disclaimer next time?? 😁 I always look forward to your comments! Thanks for watching! --Emily
Great video y’all! I truly appreciate all of the work and info that you put out. I do have a question about this setup though. If your running on on the right tank, both tanks are full, and the valve fails…. Would it not switch back to and overfill the left tank?
I suppose the easy answer is don’t run the right tank if the left tank is full, but I have to wonder if there’s another way to go about this.
Thanks again for all that y’all do, and keep up the great work!
Hello Shawn. I have had that happen and it does fill the left tank fairly quickly. I started running a 1/2 fuel line from tank to tank that connects at the filler tube, just in case that happens. The times that it happened to me, the left tank was empty at the time when I started on the right tank, so the added fuel to it just ended up me running out of fuel on the right. The systems that I do now will have their own regulator for each tank and eliminate that possible problem. I didn't have the budget to do that in the beginning and now I just insist on it when I take on a swap for someone. Jerry
Building a 5.3, 83 c10 love the content 👌
That's awesome! We appreciate you watching! 👍
What size circuit breaker 12v should I use, or formula to figure out,
Off of battery main wire
I'm not sure which wire or circuit breaker you're talking about... Can you elaborate? Are you using OEM harness and fuse box?
Psi harness stand alone
Love the videos and appreciate the time you spend on explaining both the fuel and electrical side if this build.
Question i have is the switch in the cab.. can i use the stock type dual tank switch to activate the pump and the gauge? If so how would I wire that up?
Thanks again
Depending on which switch you have, yes. It needs to be a 2 position toggle switch. That's something we've had a lot of questions about, so we'll have a video on that very soon! Thanks for tuning in!
Awesome. So I did an LS swap on my 80 with the carb selector valve. I couldn’t figure out out to plumb it for fuel tanks with the EFI so I decided to go to carb instead of blowing the truck up. Which is one of the reasons I did the carb conversion with a TBI fuel pumps. This is an awesome way to hook it up……… is there some relays in the factory ls fuse box you could have used to keep everything contained? I like the independent relays. Adds to the nostalgia of the truck! Great work guys.
Yes, we absolutely could use a relay that is in that fuse box already. There are quite a few of them in there that are not being used any longer. This was definitely the easiest way to do this though. I worry about people having to work on them in the future so I try to do it in a way that I would be able to figure it out if it was brought to me for repair. If it was my truck I would use relays from the original box for sure. Would make for a great video. Thanks for watching. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience I’ll keep that in mind. When I did my initial harness before carb, I used some really cheap fuse block and relay holders and it was garbage and ugly….. I also like how you adapted everything from the suburban into the truck. I am going to steal some of your ideas……. Have you thought of a way to hook up the AC? I know with DBC throttle bodies, the only needs to see a 5v reference and it adjusts the idle. Idk about the DBW. Also, do you have a video covering the pedal you used?
I'm going to be wiring up the AC on it this weekend actually and we will put a video out on that also. The accelerator pedal is something we have never recorded but should. I like to use the OEM pedal that is adjustable from these suburbans. It has a shorter throw and feels much more like the pedal travel from the original carburetor. I modify them and bolt them into the original 3 bolt holes. Thanks Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience well I can’t wait for the video. I’m taking notes for some of the stuff I haven’t thought of but you did. I like figuring stuff out rather than buying a kit. It takes the fun away and plus, if I ever have to troubleshoot wiring later on, ill know it by heart or most of it
I'm struggling and stressed out of my mind with my 87 R10 dual tank set up! After watching your video on the C5 Corvette filter regulators rant. I too don't feel comfortable using them now. So now I'm back to square one. I am willing to donate my project to you for the simple fact that I don't think you've actually had a 1987 R10 on any of your very informative videos lol. (Joking not joking 😄) I'm at my wits end. Please helllllllp me! By the way, I've had several mechanics just cheat me out of my hard earned $. I just brought it back from last mechanic that promised me it would be done in 6 weeks and he had it 4 months and never touched it. In a seriousness, I would love to take it to you. Let me know what you think. Love your videos. You have a big fan from Lubbock Texas! God bless y'all!
Oh by the way, have you done a video using PSI Conversion standalone wiring harness, ECU and Dakota Digital Dash, because that's what I'm trying to use. You think this could be an interesting video idea? Thanks again.
Hello Raul. Send us an email at uglytruckexperience@gmail.com and we will get in contact with you if you like. Thanks. Jerry and Emily
Thank you Jerry and Emily. You guys are great. Love the videos.
Thanks for the channel
We appreciate you watching!
Jerry, I love the LS videos! Question, why will the rocker switch not work? Maybe I missed this explanation. Thanks.
The rocker switch only works with the original style switch valve. By pushing on the rocker it moves those valves to another position and then when you let off the rocker it stays in that selected spot. I don't use that valve so I have to use a switch that stays open or closed. I have another one coming up and will make a point to talk about that more. Thanks Joey
What is the part number for the tank switch ? . Do you have any pictures of the fuel line from the fuel rail to the frame you show it going down the transmission thanks again.
The switch I use is a DS1807 Standard. I use the donor motor fuel lines running down the side of transmission and am not sure if there are any shots of it. Thanks Frank, we are going to be doing another fuel system wiring really soon. We appreciate you watching. Jerry and Emily.
Very informative video. Can you tell me where the pink wire on the dual tank switch picks up power? I do not see it labeled on the fuse block. I assume it's on the ignition side ( I don't have a battery in my truck to ck)? Is it a big enough wire to handle the current and voltage for the new pumps?
What year of truck are you swapping and what are you using for a harness and fuse box? Jerry
1986, OEM factory fuse block. Factory Dual tank switch .The truck is untouched all factory until now
The engine harness is a New Speartech. The gray fuel pump wire out of their harness is probably a #16 (LS 5.3 out of a 2006 Avalanche). Tanks are from Tanks inc. complete kit.
I would use the grey wire that comes out of your new harness to turn a relay on that supplies power to the fuel pumps through a fused power with key on and cranking. Buy a tank switch for a 87 which is a toggle switch, not a rocker and use that switch to change tanks through a relay. That switch was not made to have the power going to a pump through it. We will be doing another video on this soon. Hope this helps. Jerry
Jerry and Emily, perhaps I didn’t see it but what valve did you use for the fuel return? Thanks mh
Hi Mike! Here's a link to another video showing how we plumbed the fuel system, and the return valve. There's a parts list in the description of that video for everything we used. th-cam.com/video/HcaAvC2aOVY/w-d-xo.html
We appreciate you watching! --Emily
The problem with running two tanks isnt wiring it so much...it is returning the fuel back to the same tank you are using. The best idea I have seen for fuel injection is running a IMCO valve that routes your return fuel back to whichever tank you are running. So a guy running drag week can run pump gas in one tank then switch his tune and tank over to race gas at the track.
Those valves are really nice, the price is the problem. Thanks for watching. Jerry
I know this is a old video but do you remember where you got the relays and what gauge wire is in the 5 wire loom you have running down to the fuel pumps? thanks
Hello David. I run a 12 awg wire down to the fuel pump. The OEM is a 14 awg which works fine but that 12 will get power down there easily, especially if it is a longer run like on a long box or a Blazer. Here is a link to the relays that we buy. Thanks. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FSZWVT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I run a 14 awg for the extra ground and the sending unit wires are 18 awg. Jerry
Hello can I make the right tank the primary tank? Instead of the left…
Yes you can. I have the right tank on my 74 as the primary also. You can do it how ever you prefer. Use a good high quality 12awg wire running that far to the pump. Thanks. Jerry
Cool video as usually , but there is something I don´t get, you are always so clean, when I open a engine my hands got dirty before touching a thing.
😂 This truck is actually pretty clean! Some of the other stuff we work on... not so much. 😬 Thanks for watching!
do you have part numbers for what you used on this job? Thanks
Here's a link to another video showing how we plumbed the fuel system and all the parts we used. There's a parts list in the description of that video. th-cam.com/video/HcaAvC2aOVY/w-d-xo.html We appreciate you tuning in!
Can you give the part number and make of 2 relays you used for the bracket under the break fluid
I believe these are the relays. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FSZWVT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Thanks for watching! --Emily
What valve did you end up going with for the return setup? This is the point im at with my swap. Being relatively low pressure im thinking of using the stock carbureted tank selector valve for the return
I used a Standard Motor Product fv1t part for my fuel return. Using the stock valve for the return will work. I personally don't care for them but that's just my opinion which I have been told stinks sometimes. Thanks
@@UglyTruckExperience thank you for the reply. I was planning on that valve. I’ve also been told it won’t work by the internet experts… don’t see why it wouldnt
It works but you will need to change your rocker switch to a toggle switch.
Unfortunately the aftermarket fittings are the problem. If you use a good master crimp tool or buy the hardline it would work fine. Especially when you bought a Delco or equivalent filter. I understand why you would get turned off since you are working on customer vehicles. Keep up the good work!
I was so excited to be putting these on. I thought all of my fuel supply troubles in the future we're over. Thanks for your comment and watching. Jerry
Hey Jerry, I had great success with my filter/ regulator I didn't buy the expensive name brand tho, I used the OEM ac Delco part for the Vette.
Woah! What happened!? Major continuity problem! I went to bed after watching the previous video in the series which was the marathon custom fuse box(es) wiring and subsequent cruz control video. Now it's the next moring and what am I looking at!? The entire wired custom fuse box is gone and replaced by what looks like the original LS donor wiring fuse box. For me it was overnight, but your time stamp suggests it was about 6 months for you. How'd you do that bit of magic?? I'd prefer to use the original fuse box as well, but it doesn't appear to have everything that is needed and I haven't found those little crimp pins for that 'C-connector' mate. So maybe a video on that. Also a video on the "DMV" reference you made. I'm trying to figure out how to title my 1981 LS-swapped C10.
We decided to switch that over to the oem fuse box because of some of the items that he wanted to add to it. Thanks for watching. I'm not sure what DMV reference you are asking about.
@@UglyTruckExperience Emily made a comment about the DMV in passing and it triggered me. I have no title for my 1981 C10 and the DMV gives me different answers on how to get a title, from "you can't" to "only if it is registered as antique" to "just register it. The rego functions as a title for cars that old." I haven't actually done it yet, but have plans for this spring to tackle the project. Hence my binge watching your fine collection of videos!
Each state is different and it seems like they change the rules occasionally. Here in a Missouri they have made it impossible to get a title in most cases. We have state vehicle inspections also, so I don't want somebody to modify their car or truck and then not put on road. I think a lot of older vehicles would be saved if it was a little easier. I hope things go smooth with yours.
Can yall give me a list of items needed to run both tanks during and ls swap. Thx inadvance
Here's a link to another video showing how we plumbed the fuel system and all the parts we used. There's a parts list in the description of that video. th-cam.com/video/HcaAvC2aOVY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching! --Emily
Show video how to wire ac compressor
Hey Hustler! We have a video on that coming up very soon! 👍
@@UglyTruckExperience thanks
I’m going to need to Fly Jerry and.... Emily to Ohio to wire my truck.
Things have been pretty crazy around the shop lately... A road trip doesn't sound too bad! 🤔😁
Did you get a new dog or is she just a loaner? Or was she just camera shy until now?Also did you wire in obd2 port? I may have missed it.
Yep, that's Juice! We've had her for a few weeks, but she's been hiding in the air conditioning. 😂 Ripley needed a friend!
We will have a OBD and check engine light video out soon. Thanks Jerry
@T Burg Jerry has plenty of rants! 😁 Thanks for watching!
the problem you are having is with the china fitting you are putting on the filter. Had the same problem on my 69 camaro ls swap. got a name brand fitting and never had another problem.
Holley now makes one that goes inside the tank. No return line needed at all.
I used top name brand fittings, who knows where they are made I guess. Will check out the Holley regulator. Wondering when someone would come up with an in tank. Thanks Jerry
Bummer. I have had good luck with my regulator/ filter. But if it puts a bad taste in your mouth I wouldn’t go back with the same product. If mine leaks, I will go a different as well.
A lot of people swear by them, but we just couldn't risk a fuel leak on a customer's vehicle. It is a much simpler system, so we may try it again someday. Thanks for watching!