Can you do a video how you tune a car, from beginning to end with voiceover so we can follow? You take a car, driving it, make comments how it feels and then change settings and we can follow and understand why you’ve done and how it feels to you. I think that’ll be great learning tool.
I know i'm late to reply to this, however this video would be hours and hours long if he was to make a half decent tune, as each adjustment you make (changing one setting at a time) you need to then a good 10 minutes to get an idea on whether it's helpful or not, given how many options there are to change, plus how changing one setting can affect a setting you've already changed, it would soon become a very boring video. My best advice is read, there are lots of tuning books, whether it be for other sims, or real life, the principle is the same if not very similar and will give you an idea on what to change given the issues you're experiencing.
I want to add that the PP value is calculated by GT7 by taking your car and settings and running it on a simulated track. So if the value goes up, then it means the car performed better around the track. But that doesn't always translate to an easier to drive car. So it's always important for you to test the car on a familiar track.
@@KeepCalmNCodeOn This is very true. I once did a set up looking at the PP value and I got a proper increase, while eventually making the car pretty much undriveable. Then I did some setup changes, dropping the PP value even lower than it originally was and I was notably waster.
This is a great guide! I've been simming for years. I've been adjusting settings over half my life. I just started teaching my brother how to properly tune, and since GT7 doesn't have tire temp readouts I was trying to find the best way to explain adjusting camber, one of the first things you should do when tuning a car. Then I came across this. So I just shared it to him lol you took care of it already. Great to see the genre has people with this level of know-how, down to you explaining the order these adjustments should be made in (though I usually do transmission before or during suspension, and downforce before damping and differential).
Oh man this was perfect, yes is was not overwhelming, it was perfect. And I was here for ECU and power banding and torque to PP HP, power restrictor etc, how you involved the turbo charge into the equation was a bonus. This was what I was looking for, thank you so much. I think the game needed to add more lessons in an part of the game that's missing, i remember learning so much about driving from the first gran turismo games, they tough you all about momentum and how weight shifting into corners and tires that are impacted with more grip cause of shifting weight from braking and cornering. They need to add this back as a refresher and for new people to car racing, not everyone that plays this game has all those things understood and mastered. This is really basic stuff for racing fans, but a lot of people that play this game might need refreshers on this nuances aspects of car racing. Super great video, keep it up.
Thanks for the detailed help man. I literally looked up some articles on Google and none of them even came close to talking about the tuning details as much as you did. So here's a genuine thank you. Thanks 👍
I always find suspension tuning to be the most difficult aspect of tuning cars in games, thank you for giving us the quick and dirty lol, i really didnt want to have to bust out my copy of tuned to win
I've been doing it so long that I don't find it difficult anymore (except shocks/dampers, that's rocket science), but I see how tackling suspension geometry and weight transfer can be daunting. What I did was start with the most important part of the car, the contact point with the track: tires. If you can figure out JUST tire geometry (which in this game is just camber and toe... be glad you don't have to deal with pressures or caster), not only is is good for up to or more than a second on-track, but you'll start learning how changes effect handling. From there, it's just about diving in. Give yourself a couple hours to adjust something, run some laps to see what changed, go BACK on you adjustment, and adjust something else. A lot of different tuning adjustments can accomplish the same thing, and which adjustments work best for you depend on your driving style.
@JReaLBiz86 shocks absorb road bump impacts. A damp ratio too high means impacts are absorbed too quickly, which resullts in a bouncy car because the spring can't compress quickly enough and vice versa. So find the perfect balance
Brilliant video. Every second was worthwhile to listen to. Learnt loads. Like the bit about the dot referencing how much steering lock. I didn't even know what the dot was for.
I would've added more info for Torque Vectoring Eg: Setting a value of 45:55 will obviously send 45% of the torque to the front wheels, which can help with traction out of corners, but it will also add more load to the front tires. So if the front tires are wearing out faster than you like, try setting the Torque Vector setting to 20:80. The car may have a higher chance of oversteer out of a corner, but less torque is put into the front tires which can help them last a little longer.
Great video, of course this goes deeper, but if you follow these guidelines and read those few descriptions while testing your favorite car, you can become a journeyman tuner in a few days.
Thank you for explaining all that.. A lot of other people's channels don't explain everything they just explained one certain thing... again Thank you!
1:40 this was perfect, i was hitting some VERY sharp turns they drop your speed to almost nothing and sometimes felt the car wasn't even turning for me, if you hit the brake you can't turn cause your not moving, and if you are moving to fast your going off the track. I'm so glad i discovered the height issue.
I carry over my tuning philosophy from the F1 games. For tuning the lsd. I max the braking and 10 under max acceleration. I've found that getting the wheels to roll at the same rate under braking allows for faster and more stable deceleration into corners. The reason that acceleration is 10 under max is I've found that the maxing out causes you to spin out the corners. The other tire will catch up on the straight. I need to get out the corners as quickly and safely as possible. That being said the power restrictor is a good idea.
The your taking rhe wrong philosophy into rhis game in gran turismo you should always put accelaration on your lsd ( rhe middle one ) as low as you possibly can to get out of the corners safely putting braking very high creates a good amount of understeer that you dont always want for cars unless they are are unstable when braking an f1 car is also very different froma road car my advice is start over and learn it the gran turismo way
Dude thank you so much for this video I so badly needed a good explanation on a lot of these stats since even though I love racing games I'm not really that much of a car head. What's really sad though is the fact that this entire video basically should have been in the game as some kind of like a basic information tutorial... Game devs have got to stop assuming that everyone understands every aspect of their genre Otherwise they alienate the casual audience that might just see their game on a shelf one day and say wow that looks really cool I think I'll give it a try.
This is an amazing video, so informative. Can you make a video explaining the strategies in tuning cars for 600 and 700PP races? I raced a car and set it up for the menu books and passed the tourneys, but the single race 600-700 PP races i can't come in first. I've took high end cars and throttled them back, took weaker cars and upgraded them, tuned the transmission for last gear redlining on the straight, used low and mid turbos when I can. Micro manages slicks to hard sports to add more horsepower. ETC I'm tinkering EVERYTHING and I really don't know what the best approach is to tuning for a set PP. If you made a video explain how to approach tuning cars to a set PP , like buying weak cars and gearing up to the PP or getting suped up cars and power regulating them back down, swapping slicks instead for more power components ETC, this video would be the missing link the video game forgot to implement as a tool for teaching people how to REALLY tune your car and not JUST add faster gear, but to look at all aspects of tuning like taking control components over HP: torque comments ETC. Can you do a video on the do's and don't's of finding the right cars and tuning practices for set PP races? Thank you good sir. Thank you for this great video, super helpful. now target this to getting a car to a optimal specific PP race. 😛
@@MrDahlbacken I finally figure it all out, it took SOOOO long and lots of just playing the game and learning about all the factors in racing. I should make a video now... 😂🤣
This man put a lot of work making this! This guy has a good heart and is sharing! A lot of people won't.... I have a budget of $500ish what steering set up is recommended? G293 Thrust Master T300 GT? Recommendations.. I'll be using a tv Fanatic is out of my price point.
Really helpful vid! Needed this for a league I’m in. P12 in race 1, after watching this vid with a different setup P2! Thankyou so much for this keep it up m8
I’d love GT to introduce a new “cafe” location where you are taught about tuning through guided scenarios at certain tracks and in certain cars where we could really learn the effects of tuning in clear tests. “Get such and such a time through this series of corners by adjusting suspension, ride height only, ride height only, etc”
Adding some more visual refrence would help this a lot. Also, I still have no idea how to tune the suspension and I'm starting to think I will never trully get it.
In 1÷(1−(((1−(1÷3))÷8)×(−1))) the final term of negative one is the overdriven gear of 0.92. If you add 1 to it and make it zero, you'll get 1.00. If you add 1 again, it produces 1.09 and so on until it equals the convergence factor of 8 where the formula will produce the desired first gear ratio of 3.00. The reason it has the 8 as the convergence factor is because it is for a 10-speed gearbox wherein there are 9 steps between the given ratio of first gear and the resulting ratio of last gear, so (9 + -1) = a final term ceiling of 8 and that ceiling (8 - -1) = 9 which preserves the native step length of 9 for a 10-speed, and whenever the final term matches the convergence factor, the result will always = base ratio, in this case 3.00 at 1st gear. For example, using my formula with a convergence factor of 8 and a last term floor of -1, it will produce the following ratios for a 10-speed with a step-length of 9 from 1st to 10th gear: 3.00, 2.40, 2.00, 1.71, 1.50, 1.33, 1.20, 1.09, 1.00, and 0.92. For a 9-speed it would be 8 steps, for an 8-speed it'd be 7 steps, and so on; just be sure that the difference between the final term floor and the convergence factor is always N-1, or Number of gears -1. So, if you want less overdrive and want a final gear of 1.00:1.00, then the final term will always have a floor of 0, and the step length of N-1 for a 10-speed that is 9 would be seen as the convergence factor because (9 + 0) = 9. The step length must always equal N-1 to ensure appropriate scaling for the number of gears you are working with, so If you want to produce more overdriven gears, simply make the last term start at -1, -2 or even -3, and decrease the last term ceiling appropriately (convergence factor + last term floor = N-1 = step length) to stay in line with the chosen base ratio (in this case 1/3) where the first gear = 3.00:1.00 when the final term ceiling matches the convergence factor. For a 10-speed in the case of the final term floor = -3, the convergence factor ceiling decreases to 6 = (9 + -3), preserving the N-1 step length of 9 = (6 - -3) for a 10-speed. The formula for that looks like this: 1÷(1−(((1−(1÷3))÷6)×(−3))) = 0.75 overdrive for 10th gear. Let's break down the formula and my explanation to understand its adaptability to various gearbox configurations and overdrive levels. Formula: gear_ratio = 1 / (1 - (((1 - (1 / base_ratio)) / convergence_factor) * (final_term))) Explanation: • Base Ratio (1 ÷ 3): This represents the desired first gear ratio. It sets the foundation for the exponential progression of subsequent gear ratios. • Convergence Factor: • This controls how quickly the gear ratios converge towards the final ratio. • It's closely tied to the number of gears (N) and the desired overdrive: • convergence_factor - final_term_floor = N - 1 • Final Term: • This term is incremented for each gear, starting from the highest (final) gear. • Its floor value determines the overdrive level: • 0: No overdrive (1.00:1.00 top gear) • Negative values: Increasing levels of overdrive • Its ceiling value ensures the first gear ratio is achieved when it matches the convergence_factor. Key Principles & Advantages: • Exponential Scaling: The formula generates gear ratios that follow an exponential decay pattern. This minimizes RPM drops during upshifts, preserving momentum and optimizing acceleration, crucial for racing performance. • Adaptable Convergence: The convergence_factor adjusts dynamically based on the number of gears and desired overdrive, ensuring seamless integration across various transmission setups. • Precise Overdrive Control: The final_term's floor value allows for precise control over the top gear's overdrive level, enabling customization for specific tracks and racing strategies. • Consistent Step Length: The formula maintains a consistent step length (N - 1) between gear ratios, ensuring a balanced and predictable progression for smoother shifts and improved driver control. Example: 10-Speed with Overdrive (0.75:1.00 top gear) • base_ratio = 1/3 (first gear = 3.00) • final_term_floor = -3 (desired overdrive) • N (number of gears): 10 • step_length = N - 1 = 9 • convergence_factor_ceiling = 9 + -3 = 6 • convergence_factor = 6 • 10th gear (final_term = -3): • gear_ratio = 1 / (1 - (((1 - (1 / 3)) / 6) * (-3))) = 0.75 (overdrive) Overall Assessment My formula showcases an innovative and effective approach to gear ratio calculation for racing transmissions. Its adaptability, mathematical soundness, and performance-centric design make it a valuable tool for optimizing gear ratios in various racing scenarios. Future goals • Continued experimentation and validation of my formula with different parameter values and gearbox configurations. • Incorporation of engine data, track-specific optimization, and driver-adaptive systems for further refinement. • Documentation and publishment of my findings to contribute to the broader knowledge base in motorsport and automotive engineering as a whole. Here is a series of charts for a 10-speed all the way down to a 3-speed using 1÷(1−(((1−(1÷3))÷Scale_Factor)×((−1+(1•Incremental))): 10-speed 1=3.00 2=2.40 3=2.00 4=1.71 5=1.50 6=1.33 7=1.20 8=1.09 9=1.00 10=0.92 9-speed 1=3.00 2=2.33 3=1.91 4=1.62 5=1.40 6=1.24 7=1.11 8=1.00 9=0.91 8-speed 1=3.00 2=2.25 3=1.80 4=1.50 5=1.29 6=1.13 7=1.00 8=0.90 7-speed 1=3.00 2=2.14 3=1.67 4=1.36 5=1.15 6=1.00 7=0.88 6-speed 1=3.00 2=2.00 3=1.50 4=1.20 5=1.00 6=0.86 5-speed 1=3.00 2=1.80 3=1.29 4=1.00 5=0.82 4-speed 1=3.00 2=1.50 3=1.00 4=0.75 3-speed 1=3.00 2=1.00 3=0.60
Great video, thanks for explaining each setting and its implications! I'd love to see a video of yourself picking a car (FR would be cool as I'm having issues on corner exit with them) and dialing it in whilst explaining why you did it.
Best tuning video out there that goos in depth! thanks. Would you be up for some example in different drive cars? what should we aim for in FR, FF, MR, 4WD cars for example?
Nice. Dialing for PP restrictions gets complicated due to changes in dampening, ride height or downforce can increase the PP value even though your car may be lightly modified. I’ll be trying the ecu/ peer restrictor to get some good torque in these races.
The Stanlick formula: Gear Ratio = 1 ÷ (1 - ((1 - (1 ÷ Point of Convergence)) ÷ Convergence Factor) • (Final Term)) Explanation: • Point of Convergence: This represents the desired 1st gear ratio upon which all other ratios will converge. It sets the foundation for the exponential progression of subsequent gear ratios. • Step-Length: Calculated as Number of Gears - 1, or (N - 1), is the amount of steps between the Point of Convergence and the remainder of the steps, or in this case, gears. For a 10-speed you would have 9 steps, for a 9-speed it would be 8 steps, for an 8-speed it'd be 7 steps, and so on; just be sure that the difference between the Final Term Floor and the Convergence Factor is always equal to (N - 1). • Convergence Factor: This controls how quickly all steps (or gear ratios) converge towards the final step (or ratio) that is at the Nth step (or gear). It's closely tied to the Number of Gears (N) and the desired Overdrive because: Convergence Factor + / - (+ / - Final Term Floor) = N - 1. The Convergence Factor is always minus a (negative Final Term Floor value), and plus any (positive Final Term Floor value). The Convergence Factor must be reduced or increased according to whatever value the Final Term Floor is to follow the rule N-1 = Step Length, which ensures that the Step Length is constant. • Final Term: This term is incremented for each gear, starting from the highest (final) gear and adding +1 to it for each preceding gear. Its floor value determines the Drive Level. A Drive Level of 0 = no Overdrive (1.00 : 1.00 top gear) whereas negative values for Drive Level such as -1 will produce levels of Overdrive. The opposite is true for values > 1, yielding more Torque Multiplication closer to the Nth ratio and producing Underdrive. • Final Term Ceiling is what ensures that the first gear ratio is achieved when it matches the Convergence Factor. This means that if you add 1 to a Final Term of -1: (-1 + 1) and make it zero, you'll get 1.00 : 1.00 as an output from the formula. If you add 1 again, it produces a number that is > 1.00. If you continue to increase the Final Term incrementally by 1, by the time it equals the given Convergence Factor, the formula will produce the desired first gear ratio that was set as your Point of Convergence. Example: • Using 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷8)×(−1)) for a 10-speed transmission, it will produce the following ratios from 1st to 10th gear (rounded to the nearest hundredth): 3.00, 2.40, 2.00, 1.71, 1.50, 1.33, 1.20, 1.09, 1.00, and 0.92. • The reason it has 8 as the Convergence Factor is because it is for a 10-speed gearbox wherein there are 9 steps between the given ratio of first gear and the resulting ratio of last gear, so (9 + -1) = a Final Term Ceiling of 8, and that ceiling (8 - -1) = 9, which preserves the Step Length of 9 for a 10-speed. Whenever the Final Term matches the Convergence Factor, the result will always = Point of Convergence, which is in this case 3.00 at 1st gear. • Of course, if you keep the Point of Convergence at 3.00 but lower the Final Term Floor to something that is < -1, say -2 or even -3, it will produce several levels of Overdrive and will create a more gradual progression both converging to the Point of Convergence and diverging towards the Nth gear. The opposite of this is true if you want less overdrive and desire a final gear of 1.00:1.00. Just make the Final Term Floor = 0, and the step length of N-1 for a 10-speed that is 9 would be seen as the Point of Convergence because (9 + 0) = 9. Key Principles & Advantages: • Exponential Scaling: The formula generates gear ratios that follow an exponential decay pattern where going in the direction further from the Point of Convergence there is progressively less delta between consecutive ratios (convergence). This results in a "wider" ratio spread amongst the lower gears, prioritizing torque at lower speeds, and each gear above the previous becomes progressively closer on the delta between consecutive ratios (divergence) as they get closer to the Nth gear. Obviously, given the sheer number of gears and the other parameters in the formula, you can scale exactly how steep this exponential decay (convergence towards Point of Convergence and divergence towards the Nth gear) is and exactly how gradual or sudden it is to get the set of ratios that best suits your needs and vehicle using pure algebra. This is a mathematically precise way to take advantage of the nature of geometric exponential feedback loops, that yields numerically perfect and scalably balanced ratio spreads with zero guesswork beyond the input of initial values. • Adaptable Convergence and Divergence: The Step Length adjusts dynamically based on the number of gears and desired Overdrive as determined by the Final Term Floor, ensuring seamless integration across various transmission setups. • Precise Overdrive Control: The Final Term Floor value allows for precise control over the top gear's overdrive level, enabling customization for specific tracks and racing strategies. • Consistent Step Length: The formula maintains a consistent step length (N - 1) between gear ratios, ensuring a balanced and predictable progression for smoother shifts and improved driver control. Ratio Spreads from 10 to 3-speed • Here is a series of charts for a 10-speed all the way down to a 3-speed. I chose a first gear of 3.00 : 1.00 as it is a median between 4.00 : 1.00 and 2.00 : 1.00, and I adjusted the Final Term Floor to -1 to apply a single level of overdrive to all of the spreads. Of course, you can manipulate these values at will to make your own charts. • The formula used for these ratio spreads is as follows: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷Step Length)×(−1)) and here are the results: 10-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷8)×(−1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8)) 1=3.00 (8) 2=2.40 (7) 3=2.00 (6) 4=1.71 (5) 5=1.50 (4) 6=1.33 (3) 7=1.20 (2) 8=1.09 (1) 9=1.00 (0) 10=0.92 (-1) 9-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷7)×(−1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7)) 1=3.00 (7) 2=2.33 (6) 3=1.91 (5) 4=1.62 (4) 5=1.40 (3) 6=1.24 (2) 7=1.11 (1) 8=1.00 (0) 9=0.91 (-1) 8-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷6)×(−1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6)) 1=3.00 (6) 2=2.25 (5) 3=1.80 (4) 4=1.50 (3) 5=1.29 (2) 6=1.13 (1) 7=1.00 (0) 8=0.90 (-1) 7-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷5)×(−1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5)) 1=3.00 (5) 2=2.14 (4) 3=1.67 (3) 4=1.36 (2) 5=1.15 (1) 6=1.00 (0) 7=0.88 (-1) 6-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷4)×(−1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4)) 1=3.00 (4) 2=2.00 (3) 3=1.50 (2) 4=1.20 (1) 5=1.00 (0) 6=0.86 (-1) 5-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷3)×(−1, 0, 1, 2, 3)) 1=3.00 (3) 2=1.80 (2) 3=1.29 (1) 4=1.00 (0) 5=0.82 (-1) 4-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷2)×(−1, 0, 1, 2)) 1=3.00 (2) 2=1.50 (1) 3=1.00 (0) 4=0.75 (-1) 3-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷1)×(−1, 0, 1)) 1=3.00 (1) 2=1.00 (0) 3=0.60 (-1)
Now what i am wonder is this, adjustments infleunce the PP, when the PP goes up, not by adding better parts but purely adjustments, is this an indication that your on the right track or not ?
So one thing I have noticed while dabbling in the tuning in this game, PP constantly increases and decreases with every adjustment. I’ve noticed that the game actually calculates higher PP for some of the more stable and faster tunes. I don’t know if it coincidence or if the game is actually designed to calculate the best tunes in the PP rating but some of the fastest and best feeling tunes I have are also the tunes that have the highest PP rating. Anytime I tend to adjust something that makes it worse, the PP rating also tends to reciprocate that. Usually.. very rare that the rating goes up and a tune feels worse. (Note: This is also all based on a wheel, not a controller)
I remember back in the days of GT5/GT6 tunes where like gold and someone always had a secret recipe, but seems they’ve made it more user friendly and easier for new comers to figure out. Still takes lots of adjustments and testing between but seems as though the PP rating kinda hints at the better tunes
Yes please.. I know that installing certain parts (Bore up/Polish Ports) will not allow you to decrease the PP other than using power restrictor, ecu or ballast. What i’m curious is if there’s a race with 550pp, would you tune the car with say Sports parts instead of Racing and then detune it to lower the pp? Or go all racing and detune? I’m not using a wheel and i’m not going to go crazy aiming to gold or get 1st for all races but I would love to just make some of my favourite cars drivable (FRs and MRs). Will try some of the tips here to see if it works.. Thanks! thanks 🙏🏻
Great video, thanks for making it. However, in the suspension section, especially when talking about damping ratio and natural frequency, you don't really say whether higher or lower values make the suspsension softer or harder / more or less stiff. I assume "higher dampening ratio" == "harder" and "higher natural frequency" == "stiffer?
Really helpful guide, especially where you favour power limiter over ECU to keep torque high. Can I ask what use the ECU is then if a power limiter is more favourable?
I'm going to give you amazing content here... When you race GT3 cars on the GT3 races, you have to hit 730PP, this is where that down force gets super interesting. When you lower the down force on the back and add more to the front, you lose 100 HP, plus the cars is not stable around turns. When you lower the down force on the front and add more to the back, you gain 100+HP, plus the car turns better. This is counter intuitive to the PP points going up and down, cause you would think you lose power for more stability and and gain power for instability?!?! Try it out and make a video about it, it was fascinating when I was trying everything to make my lap times better for GT3 PP 730 races, I see the power I got for adjusting the down force from front to back but after all my tests the more stability equaled more power and the instability created less power. I got smoother turns and higher top speeds with greater stability and 100+ more HP from lowering front down force to lowest and raising the back down force to highest. Make a video of this and enjoy.
Nice video. I feel like I have tuning down except dampers, springs and arbs, since they differ from game to game. In gran turismo I mostly try to set the arbs first, and balance the rest of the suspension around it, but in the F1 games Arbs aren’t as powerful so I set the springs first.
Thank you very much!! This helps a lot! For the stability section in the left panel for low and high speeds. Are we trying to get numbers closer to zero (0) or further away from zero (0) like -1.00? Thanks again!
I've been wanting to play gt for so long. I can't atm because I have an xbox. I plan to get a ps5 in the future but yesterday I played gt7 for the first time round my friends and boy was I impressed
This is fantastic! Many thanks. I'm going to need to write all this down, but if you already have a transcript that would save a lot of time and effort if you could post it somehow, please.
Questions with transmissions, i paddle shift or lb/rb shift on controller, will racing sequential be any better than the manual trans? Ive been using the sequential and just thought about it and wondered if anyone knew if 1 or the other made any real difference
I slapped a supercharger and some other high performance parts on my LT1 Camaro. The thing is a rocket but sucks in any type of curvy track. I’ve been relying on straight speed. Need to figure out how to make it a bit more agile.
![[#2024MAMA] BIGBANG (빅뱅) - 뱅뱅뱅 (BANG BANG BANG) + FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EQsYfiPR9uM/mqdefault.jpg)
Can you do a video how you tune a car, from beginning to end with voiceover so we can follow? You take a car, driving it, make comments how it feels and then change settings and we can follow and understand why you’ve done and how it feels to you. I think that’ll be great learning tool.
So did you ever do a vid like this @HokiHoshi
*capcations has entered the chat*
@@youtubeisracistx what's that?
I know i'm late to reply to this, however this video would be hours and hours long if he was to make a half decent tune, as each adjustment you make (changing one setting at a time) you need to then a good 10 minutes to get an idea on whether it's helpful or not, given how many options there are to change, plus how changing one setting can affect a setting you've already changed, it would soon become a very boring video. My best advice is read, there are lots of tuning books, whether it be for other sims, or real life, the principle is the same if not very similar and will give you an idea on what to change given the issues you're experiencing.
@@gtbeech that's called editing...
As a player whos new to the GT franchise, i cant thank you enough for this tuning guide. Really helped
I really wish there was some telemetry accessible in this game, pretty hard to see some of the effects of your tuning without it.
You can press the triangle button while in Car Settings to see if your PP goes up or down.
I want to add that the PP value is calculated by GT7 by taking your car and settings and running it on a simulated track. So if the value goes up, then it means the car performed better around the track. But that doesn't always translate to an easier to drive car. So it's always important for you to test the car on a familiar track.
@@KeepCalmNCodeOn This is very true. I once did a set up looking at the PP value and I got a proper increase, while eventually making the car pretty much undriveable. Then I did some setup changes, dropping the PP value even lower than it originally was and I was notably waster.
It comes down to driving A LOT of it pure testing but it works
Meausure every adjustment and also read other info like acceleration performance and stability
Been getting into the tuning stuff, and this video helps me get a better idea of how to approach it, depending on the car and track. Thank you!
Exactly what I was waiting for, your forza tuning videos were a massive help
This is a great guide!
I've been simming for years. I've been adjusting settings over half my life.
I just started teaching my brother how to properly tune, and since GT7 doesn't have tire temp readouts I was trying to find the best way to explain adjusting camber, one of the first things you should do when tuning a car.
Then I came across this. So I just shared it to him lol you took care of it already.
Great to see the genre has people with this level of know-how, down to you explaining the order these adjustments should be made in (though I usually do transmission before or during suspension, and downforce before damping and differential).
No PS5. No GT7. Oh hell, still watched 👍
Oh hell..? Uhhh okay..
Ps4
I play it on ps4, its playable and still fun
Oh man this was perfect, yes is was not overwhelming, it was perfect.
And I was here for ECU and power banding and torque to PP HP, power restrictor etc, how you involved the turbo charge into the equation was a bonus.
This was what I was looking for, thank you so much.
I think the game needed to add more lessons in an part of the game that's missing, i remember learning so much about driving from the first gran turismo games, they tough you all about momentum and how weight shifting into corners and tires that are impacted with more grip cause of shifting weight from braking and cornering.
They need to add this back as a refresher and for new people to car racing, not everyone that plays this game has all those things understood and mastered.
This is really basic stuff for racing fans, but a lot of people that play this game might need refreshers on this nuances aspects of car racing.
Super great video, keep it up.
Was waiting for this, thank you so much Hoki!
Thanks for the detailed help man. I literally looked up some articles on Google and none of them even came close to talking about the tuning details as much as you did. So here's a genuine thank you. Thanks 👍
About to watch this video now cause I think I messed something up
I always find suspension tuning to be the most difficult aspect of tuning cars in games, thank you for giving us the quick and dirty lol, i really didnt want to have to bust out my copy of tuned to win
@Luke Davies it really is, vehicle dynamics is not easy at all lol
I've been doing it so long that I don't find it difficult anymore (except shocks/dampers, that's rocket science), but I see how tackling suspension geometry and weight transfer can be daunting.
What I did was start with the most important part of the car, the contact point with the track: tires.
If you can figure out JUST tire geometry (which in this game is just camber and toe... be glad you don't have to deal with pressures or caster), not only is is good for up to or more than a second on-track, but you'll start learning how changes effect handling.
From there, it's just about diving in. Give yourself a couple hours to adjust something, run some laps to see what changed, go BACK on you adjustment, and adjust something else.
A lot of different tuning adjustments can accomplish the same thing, and which adjustments work best for you depend on your driving style.
@@JReaLBiz86 Thank you! This was very helpful.
@JReaLBiz86 shocks absorb road bump impacts. A damp ratio too high means impacts are absorbed too quickly, which resullts in a bouncy car because the spring can't compress quickly enough and vice versa. So find the perfect balance
Brilliant video. Every second was worthwhile to listen to. Learnt loads. Like the bit about the dot referencing how much steering lock. I didn't even know what the dot was for.
I would've added more info for Torque Vectoring
Eg: Setting a value of 45:55 will obviously send 45% of the torque to the front wheels, which can help with traction out of corners, but it will also add more load to the front tires.
So if the front tires are wearing out faster than you like, try setting the Torque Vector setting to 20:80.
The car may have a higher chance of oversteer out of a corner, but less torque is put into the front tires which can help them last a little longer.
I’ve been waiting for you to drop a tuning video for GT7!!
Been tuning for drifting for years but haven’t been into circuit racing so tuning for grip has been a challenge Thanks for the tips!
The reason I subbed to this channel was your FH4 tuning videos, was hoping you would make this for GT7!
Great video, of course this goes deeper, but if you follow these guidelines and read those few descriptions while testing your favorite car, you can become a journeyman tuner in a few days.
Thank you for explaining all that.. A lot of other people's channels don't explain everything they just explained one certain thing... again Thank you!
1:40 this was perfect, i was hitting some VERY sharp turns they drop your speed to almost nothing and sometimes felt the car wasn't even turning for me, if you hit the brake you can't turn cause your not moving, and if you are moving to fast your going off the track.
I'm so glad i discovered the height issue.
Tuning suspension's natural frequency up some when upgrading tires has been a huge help for handling. If I change one thing it's definitely that.
Been waiting for this vid since the game dropped!
This was awesome man!
This was SO HELPFUL. Thanks tons for making this video!
I carry over my tuning philosophy from the F1 games. For tuning the lsd. I max the braking and 10 under max acceleration. I've found that getting the wheels to roll at the same rate under braking allows for faster and more stable deceleration into corners. The reason that acceleration is 10 under max is I've found that the maxing out causes you to spin out the corners. The other tire will catch up on the straight. I need to get out the corners as quickly and safely as possible. That being said the power restrictor is a good idea.
The your taking rhe wrong philosophy into rhis game in gran turismo you should always put accelaration on your lsd ( rhe middle one ) as low as you possibly can to get out of the corners safely putting braking very high creates a good amount of understeer that you dont always want for cars unless they are are unstable when braking an f1 car is also very different froma road car my advice is start over and learn it the gran turismo way
It all depends on the drive train of the specific vehicle
This was honestly super helpful. Just a basic rundown but still very informative. Thanks!
Dude thank you so much for this video I so badly needed a good explanation on a lot of these stats since even though I love racing games I'm not really that much of a car head. What's really sad though is the fact that this entire video basically should have been in the game as some kind of like a basic information tutorial... Game devs have got to stop assuming that everyone understands every aspect of their genre Otherwise they alienate the casual audience that might just see their game on a shelf one day and say wow that looks really cool I think I'll give it a try.
This is an amazing video, so informative.
Can you make a video explaining the strategies in tuning cars for 600 and 700PP races? I raced a car and set it up for the menu books and passed the tourneys, but the single race 600-700 PP races i can't come in first.
I've took high end cars and throttled them back, took weaker cars and upgraded them, tuned the transmission for last gear redlining on the straight, used low and mid turbos when I can.
Micro manages slicks to hard sports to add more horsepower. ETC
I'm tinkering EVERYTHING and I really don't know what the best approach is to tuning for a set PP. If you made a video explain how to approach tuning cars to a set PP , like buying weak cars and gearing up to the PP or getting suped up cars and power regulating them back down, swapping slicks instead for more power components ETC, this video would be the missing link the video game forgot to implement as a tool for teaching people how to REALLY tune your car and not JUST add faster gear, but to look at all aspects of tuning like taking control components over HP: torque comments ETC.
Can you do a video on the do's and don't's of finding the right cars and tuning practices for set PP races?
Thank you good sir. Thank you for this great video, super helpful. now target this to getting a car to a optimal specific PP race. 😛
This. and only this.
@@MrDahlbacken
I finally figure it all out, it took SOOOO long and lots of just playing the game and learning about all the factors in racing.
I should make a video now... 😂🤣
Excellent video my friend!!!! Appreciate it. Liked and subscribed.
This man put a lot of work making this! This guy has a good heart and is sharing! A lot of people won't.... I have a budget of $500ish what steering set up is recommended? G293 Thrust Master T300 GT? Recommendations.. I'll be using a tv Fanatic is out of my price point.
Really helpful vid! Needed this for a league I’m in. P12 in race 1, after watching this vid with a different setup P2! Thankyou so much for this keep it up m8
Great intro into tuning. New sub!
This was game changing. I just started doing some tuning and so this will help
Hell yeah! Didn’t know you made a video for Gran Turismo tuning as well
This video will help a lot of new comers to GT series! Thank you for a great video, man!
This was very informative and helpful. Excellent work 👏
Bro you're a legend. Thankyou so much 🙏🙏
I’d love GT to introduce a new “cafe” location where you are taught about tuning through guided scenarios at certain tracks and in certain cars where we could really learn the effects of tuning in clear tests.
“Get such and such a time through this series of corners by adjusting suspension, ride height only, ride height only, etc”
Adding some more visual refrence would help this a lot.
Also, I still have no idea how to tune the suspension and I'm starting to think I will never trully get it.
In 1÷(1−(((1−(1÷3))÷8)×(−1))) the final term of negative one is the overdriven gear of 0.92.
If you add 1 to it and make it zero, you'll get 1.00. If you add 1 again, it produces 1.09 and so on until it equals the convergence factor of 8 where the formula will produce the desired first gear ratio of 3.00.
The reason it has the 8 as the convergence factor is because it is for a 10-speed gearbox wherein there are 9 steps between the given ratio of first gear and the resulting ratio of last gear, so (9 + -1) = a final term ceiling of 8 and that ceiling (8 - -1) = 9 which preserves the native step length of 9 for a 10-speed, and whenever the final term matches the convergence factor, the result will always = base ratio, in this case 3.00 at 1st gear.
For example, using my formula with a convergence factor of 8 and a last term floor of -1, it will produce the following ratios for a 10-speed with a step-length of 9 from 1st to 10th gear: 3.00, 2.40, 2.00, 1.71, 1.50, 1.33, 1.20, 1.09, 1.00, and 0.92.
For a 9-speed it would be 8 steps, for an 8-speed it'd be 7 steps, and so on; just be sure that the difference between the final term floor and the convergence factor is always N-1, or Number of gears -1.
So, if you want less overdrive and want a final gear of 1.00:1.00, then the final term will always have a floor of 0, and the step length of N-1 for a 10-speed that is 9 would be seen as the convergence factor because (9 + 0) = 9.
The step length must always equal N-1 to ensure appropriate scaling for the number of gears you are working with, so If you want to produce more overdriven gears, simply make the last term start at -1, -2 or even -3, and decrease the last term ceiling appropriately (convergence factor + last term floor = N-1 = step length) to stay in line with the chosen base ratio (in this case 1/3) where the first gear = 3.00:1.00 when the final term ceiling matches the convergence factor.
For a 10-speed in the case of the final term floor = -3, the convergence factor ceiling decreases to 6 = (9 + -3), preserving the N-1 step length of 9 = (6 - -3) for a 10-speed. The formula for that looks like this: 1÷(1−(((1−(1÷3))÷6)×(−3))) = 0.75 overdrive for 10th gear.
Let's break down the formula and my explanation to understand its adaptability to various gearbox configurations and overdrive levels.
Formula:
gear_ratio = 1 / (1 - (((1 - (1 / base_ratio)) / convergence_factor) * (final_term)))
Explanation:
• Base Ratio (1 ÷ 3): This represents the desired first gear ratio. It sets the foundation for the exponential progression of subsequent gear ratios.
• Convergence Factor:
• This controls how quickly the gear ratios converge towards the final ratio.
• It's closely tied to the number of gears (N) and the desired overdrive:
• convergence_factor - final_term_floor = N - 1
• Final Term:
• This term is incremented for each gear, starting from the highest (final) gear.
• Its floor value determines the overdrive level:
• 0: No overdrive (1.00:1.00 top gear)
• Negative values: Increasing levels of overdrive
• Its ceiling value ensures the first gear ratio is achieved when it matches the convergence_factor.
Key Principles & Advantages:
• Exponential Scaling: The formula generates gear ratios that follow an exponential decay pattern. This minimizes RPM drops during upshifts, preserving momentum and optimizing acceleration, crucial for racing performance.
• Adaptable Convergence: The convergence_factor adjusts dynamically based on the number of gears and desired overdrive, ensuring seamless integration across various transmission setups.
• Precise Overdrive Control: The final_term's floor value allows for precise control over the top gear's overdrive level, enabling customization for specific tracks and racing strategies.
• Consistent Step Length: The formula maintains a consistent step length (N - 1) between gear ratios, ensuring a balanced and predictable progression for smoother shifts and improved driver control.
Example: 10-Speed with Overdrive (0.75:1.00 top gear)
• base_ratio = 1/3 (first gear = 3.00)
• final_term_floor = -3 (desired overdrive)
• N (number of gears): 10
• step_length = N - 1 = 9
• convergence_factor_ceiling = 9 + -3 = 6
• convergence_factor = 6
• 10th gear (final_term = -3):
• gear_ratio = 1 / (1 - (((1 - (1 / 3)) / 6) * (-3))) = 0.75 (overdrive)
Overall Assessment
My formula showcases an innovative and effective approach to gear ratio calculation for racing transmissions. Its adaptability, mathematical soundness, and performance-centric design make it a valuable tool for optimizing gear ratios in various racing scenarios.
Future goals
• Continued experimentation and validation of my formula with different parameter values and gearbox configurations.
• Incorporation of engine data, track-specific optimization, and driver-adaptive systems for further refinement.
• Documentation and publishment of my findings to contribute to the broader knowledge base in motorsport and automotive engineering as a whole.
Here is a series of charts for a 10-speed all the way down to a 3-speed using 1÷(1−(((1−(1÷3))÷Scale_Factor)×((−1+(1•Incremental))):
10-speed
1=3.00
2=2.40
3=2.00
4=1.71
5=1.50
6=1.33
7=1.20
8=1.09
9=1.00
10=0.92
9-speed
1=3.00
2=2.33
3=1.91
4=1.62
5=1.40
6=1.24
7=1.11
8=1.00
9=0.91
8-speed
1=3.00
2=2.25
3=1.80
4=1.50
5=1.29
6=1.13
7=1.00
8=0.90
7-speed
1=3.00
2=2.14
3=1.67
4=1.36
5=1.15
6=1.00
7=0.88
6-speed
1=3.00
2=2.00
3=1.50
4=1.20
5=1.00
6=0.86
5-speed
1=3.00
2=1.80
3=1.29
4=1.00
5=0.82
4-speed
1=3.00
2=1.50
3=1.00
4=0.75
3-speed
1=3.00
2=1.00
3=0.60
Thanks a bunch! Just confirmed a question I had!!
Thanks for teaching me how to "fish". I have a much better understanding of how/what to change based on what I want now.
Great video, thanks for explaining each setting and its implications! I'd love to see a video of yourself picking a car (FR would be cool as I'm having issues on corner exit with them) and dialing it in whilst explaining why you did it.
Just what I needed. I'm new to GT7 but jumped into online races with friends and family immediately. This will help me to learn quicker!
Well done, liked & subscribed.
Great video! Thank you!
Best tuning video out there that goos in depth! thanks. Would you be up for some example in different drive cars? what should we aim for in FR, FF, MR, 4WD cars for example?
What a good video. Great job
I wish we can download peoples tuned stuff. like we can for the livery
Nice. Dialing for PP restrictions gets complicated due to changes in dampening, ride height or downforce can increase the PP value even though your car may be lightly modified.
I’ll be trying the ecu/ peer restrictor to get some good torque in these races.
Very good video..and very well explained...you've earnt my sub 👍
thank you for the easy to understand explanation
The Stanlick formula:
Gear Ratio = 1 ÷ (1 - ((1 - (1 ÷ Point of Convergence)) ÷ Convergence Factor) • (Final Term))
Explanation:
• Point of Convergence: This represents the desired 1st gear ratio upon which all other ratios will converge. It sets the foundation for the exponential progression of subsequent gear ratios.
• Step-Length: Calculated as Number of Gears - 1, or (N - 1), is the amount of steps between the Point of Convergence and the remainder of the steps, or in this case, gears. For a 10-speed you would have 9 steps, for a 9-speed it would be 8 steps, for an 8-speed it'd be 7 steps, and so on; just be sure that the difference between the Final Term Floor and the Convergence Factor is always equal to (N - 1).
• Convergence Factor: This controls how quickly all steps (or gear ratios) converge towards the final step (or ratio) that is at the Nth step (or gear). It's closely tied to the Number of Gears (N) and the desired Overdrive because: Convergence Factor + / - (+ / - Final Term Floor) = N - 1. The Convergence Factor is always minus a (negative Final Term Floor value), and plus any (positive Final Term Floor value). The Convergence Factor must be reduced or increased according to whatever value the Final Term Floor is to follow the rule N-1 = Step Length, which ensures that the Step Length is constant.
• Final Term: This term is incremented for each gear, starting from the highest (final) gear and adding +1 to it for each preceding gear. Its floor value determines the Drive Level. A Drive Level of 0 = no Overdrive (1.00 : 1.00 top gear) whereas negative values for Drive Level such as -1 will produce levels of Overdrive. The opposite is true for values > 1, yielding more Torque Multiplication closer to the Nth ratio and producing Underdrive.
• Final Term Ceiling is what ensures that the first gear ratio is achieved when it matches the Convergence Factor. This means that if you add 1 to a Final Term of -1: (-1 + 1) and make it zero, you'll get 1.00 : 1.00 as an output from the formula. If you add 1 again, it produces a number that is > 1.00. If you continue to increase the Final Term incrementally by 1, by the time it equals the given Convergence Factor, the formula will produce the desired first gear ratio that was set as your Point of Convergence.
Example:
• Using 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷8)×(−1)) for a 10-speed transmission, it will produce the following ratios from 1st to 10th gear (rounded to the nearest hundredth): 3.00, 2.40, 2.00, 1.71, 1.50, 1.33, 1.20, 1.09, 1.00, and 0.92.
• The reason it has 8 as the Convergence Factor is because it is for a 10-speed gearbox wherein there are 9 steps between the given ratio of first gear and the resulting ratio of last gear, so (9 + -1) = a Final Term Ceiling of 8, and that ceiling (8 - -1) = 9, which preserves the Step Length of 9 for a 10-speed. Whenever the Final Term matches the Convergence Factor, the result will always = Point of Convergence, which is in this case 3.00 at 1st gear.
• Of course, if you keep the Point of Convergence at 3.00 but lower the Final Term Floor to something that is < -1, say -2 or even -3, it will produce several levels of Overdrive and will create a more gradual progression both converging to the Point of Convergence and diverging towards the Nth gear. The opposite of this is true if you want less overdrive and desire a final gear of 1.00:1.00. Just make the Final Term Floor = 0, and the step length of N-1 for a 10-speed that is 9 would be seen as the Point of Convergence because (9 + 0) = 9.
Key Principles & Advantages:
• Exponential Scaling: The formula generates gear ratios that follow an exponential decay pattern where going in the direction further from the Point of Convergence there is progressively less delta between consecutive ratios (convergence). This results in a "wider" ratio spread amongst the lower gears, prioritizing torque at lower speeds, and each gear above the previous becomes progressively closer on the delta between consecutive ratios (divergence) as they get closer to the Nth gear. Obviously, given the sheer number of gears and the other parameters in the formula, you can scale exactly how steep this exponential decay (convergence towards Point of Convergence and divergence towards the Nth gear) is and exactly how gradual or sudden it is to get the set of ratios that best suits your needs and vehicle using pure algebra. This is a mathematically precise way to take advantage of the nature of geometric exponential feedback loops, that yields numerically perfect and scalably balanced ratio spreads with zero guesswork beyond the input of initial values.
• Adaptable Convergence and Divergence: The Step Length adjusts dynamically based on the number of gears and desired Overdrive as determined by the Final Term Floor, ensuring seamless integration across various transmission setups.
• Precise Overdrive Control: The Final Term Floor value allows for precise control over the top gear's overdrive level, enabling customization for specific tracks and racing strategies.
• Consistent Step Length: The formula maintains a consistent step length (N - 1) between gear ratios, ensuring a balanced and predictable progression for smoother shifts and improved driver control.
Ratio Spreads from 10 to 3-speed
• Here is a series of charts for a 10-speed all the way down to a 3-speed. I chose a first gear of 3.00 : 1.00 as it is a median between 4.00 : 1.00 and 2.00 : 1.00, and I adjusted the Final Term Floor to -1 to apply a single level of overdrive to all of the spreads. Of course, you can manipulate these values at will to make your own charts.
• The formula used for these ratio spreads is as follows: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷Step Length)×(−1)) and here are the results:
10-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷8)×(−1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8))
1=3.00 (8)
2=2.40 (7)
3=2.00 (6)
4=1.71 (5)
5=1.50 (4)
6=1.33 (3)
7=1.20 (2)
8=1.09 (1)
9=1.00 (0)
10=0.92 (-1)
9-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷7)×(−1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7))
1=3.00 (7)
2=2.33 (6)
3=1.91 (5)
4=1.62 (4)
5=1.40 (3)
6=1.24 (2)
7=1.11 (1)
8=1.00 (0)
9=0.91 (-1)
8-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷6)×(−1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6))
1=3.00 (6)
2=2.25 (5)
3=1.80 (4)
4=1.50 (3)
5=1.29 (2)
6=1.13 (1)
7=1.00 (0)
8=0.90 (-1)
7-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷5)×(−1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5))
1=3.00 (5)
2=2.14 (4)
3=1.67 (3)
4=1.36 (2)
5=1.15 (1)
6=1.00 (0)
7=0.88 (-1)
6-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷4)×(−1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4))
1=3.00 (4)
2=2.00 (3)
3=1.50 (2)
4=1.20 (1)
5=1.00 (0)
6=0.86 (-1)
5-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷3)×(−1, 0, 1, 2, 3))
1=3.00 (3)
2=1.80 (2)
3=1.29 (1)
4=1.00 (0)
5=0.82 (-1)
4-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷2)×(−1, 0, 1, 2))
1=3.00 (2)
2=1.50 (1)
3=1.00 (0)
4=0.75 (-1)
3-speed: 1÷(1−((1−(1÷3))÷1)×(−1, 0, 1))
1=3.00 (1)
2=1.00 (0)
3=0.60 (-1)
Nice bro, thanks. Answer a few of my questions fo sho
Great video! I'm sorta jumping in the deep end of GT7 and have been ruining how my cars feel haha. This might help me get back on track 😂
Thank you! I was waiting on this one.
BTW, what is the black car at the beginning?
Toyota Supra 👍
Now what i am wonder is this, adjustments infleunce the PP, when the PP goes up, not by adding better parts but purely adjustments, is this an indication that your on the right track or not ?
omg this is harder than i thought
i been having issues with tunning and was confuse thank you for the help
So one thing I have noticed while dabbling in the tuning in this game, PP constantly increases and decreases with every adjustment.
I’ve noticed that the game actually calculates higher PP for some of the more stable and faster tunes. I don’t know if it coincidence or if the game is actually designed to calculate the best tunes in the PP rating but some of the fastest and best feeling tunes I have are also the tunes that have the highest PP rating.
Anytime I tend to adjust something that makes it worse, the PP rating also tends to reciprocate that. Usually.. very rare that the rating goes up and a tune feels worse.
(Note: This is also all based on a wheel, not a controller)
I remember back in the days of GT5/GT6 tunes where like gold and someone always had a secret recipe, but seems they’ve made it more user friendly and easier for new comers to figure out. Still takes lots of adjustments and testing between but seems as though the PP rating kinda hints at the better tunes
Thank you dude, learned a lot
This is a huge help thank you so much
Great video bro, good info.
I’m overwhelmed
Don’t be.
Amazing guide thank you!
great video.. thanks a lot!
Great video
🎃happy Halloween!
One million view video! soon very soon 🤟💯👍🏁‼️👌😁
Can we please get an upgrades video as well?
I can definitely look into that
Yes please.. I know that installing certain parts (Bore up/Polish Ports) will not allow you to decrease the PP other than using power restrictor, ecu or ballast. What i’m curious is if there’s a race with 550pp, would you tune the car with say Sports parts instead of Racing and then detune it to lower the pp? Or go all racing and detune?
I’m not using a wheel and i’m not going to go crazy aiming to gold or get 1st for all races but I would love to just make some of my favourite cars drivable (FRs and MRs). Will try some of the tips here to see if it works.. Thanks! thanks 🙏🏻
Great video, thanks for making it. However, in the suspension section, especially when talking about damping ratio and natural frequency, you don't really say whether higher or lower values make the suspsension softer or harder / more or less stiff. I assume "higher dampening ratio" == "harder" and "higher natural frequency" == "stiffer?
Really helpful guide, especially where you favour power limiter over ECU to keep torque high. Can I ask what use the ECU is then if a power limiter is more favourable?
Combining both will allow you to lower the pp and hp even more than just the limiter. That’s all I can think of really
I'm going to give you amazing content here...
When you race GT3 cars on the GT3 races, you have to hit 730PP, this is where that down force gets super interesting.
When you lower the down force on the back and add more to the front, you lose 100 HP, plus the cars is not stable around turns.
When you lower the down force on the front and add more to the back, you gain 100+HP, plus the car turns better.
This is counter intuitive to the PP points going up and down, cause you would think you lose power for more stability and and gain power for instability?!?!
Try it out and make a video about it, it was fascinating when I was trying everything to make my lap times better for GT3 PP 730 races, I see the power I got for adjusting the down force from front to back but after all my tests the more stability equaled more power and the instability created less power.
I got smoother turns and higher top speeds with greater stability and 100+ more HP from lowering front down force to lowest and raising the back down force to highest.
Make a video of this and enjoy.
Nice video. I feel like I have tuning down except dampers, springs and arbs, since they differ from game to game. In gran turismo I mostly try to set the arbs first, and balance the rest of the suspension around it, but in the F1 games Arbs aren’t as powerful so I set the springs first.
Awesome Awesome tutorial
Sick video!
That R33 is 🔥
Thank you very much!! This helps a lot! For the stability section in the left panel for low and high speeds. Are we trying to get numbers closer to zero (0) or further away from zero (0) like -1.00? Thanks again!
i think for low speed closer to zero and for high speed -1.00
Hoki do you find those setup calculators work pretty well? You put in values and it gives you a setup based on that? Have you tried those?
HokiHoshi Rear-Wheel Steer Drift Car Build Guide soon?
what about permanent change upgrades? forthcoming video?
Finally, we come to nitrous ❤
Didn't know that about the power restricter need to make some changes thanks!
Hit triangle to measure your PP. Remember, it's not the size of your engine that matters, but how long you can ride.
Great video thanks
I suggest while tuning you start a private lobby so you can tune then get on a track immediately
I've been wanting to play gt for so long. I can't atm because I have an xbox. I plan to get a ps5 in the future but yesterday I played gt7 for the first time round my friends and boy was I impressed
Any ideas/tips for rally cars?
This is fantastic! Many thanks. I'm going to need to write all this down, but if you already have a transcript that would save a lot of time and effort if you could post it somehow, please.
I love this game and I love this video
I'll just fight at the back
Very informative
Muchas gracias por compartir la información, un saludo y nos vemos en pista
Thanks, man!
What track is the long open circle????
Thanks!
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful!
Questions with transmissions, i paddle shift or lb/rb shift on controller, will racing sequential be any better than the manual trans? Ive been using the sequential and just thought about it and wondered if anyone knew if 1 or the other made any real difference
I was wondering what the low/high speed stability thing means
Nice video. Can you do a tuning tutorials specifically for drifting? I need help tuning my car for drifting.
How can I fix my idle it’s at 3k rpm
I slapped a supercharger and some other high performance parts on my LT1 Camaro. The thing is a rocket but sucks in any type of curvy track. I’ve been relying on straight speed. Need to figure out how to make it a bit more agile.
It seems to not having spring rates adjustment. How do you adjusts it? And what are frequencies suspension adjustments? Thanks!