With respect, I think you should box in those two plates of the motor mount extension. IMHO, you are going to get some lateral flexure on the inner plate and it will be prone to fatigue. I also think you’re going to get a torsional flexure that you’re not accounting for. Just an old engineer’s recommendation. Love this build. Super cool.
This old engineer agrees! Also, I would put another bracket from the Tesla mounts to the frame rails just above to triangulate, so your adapter mount is secured in 4 locations instead of 2.
I know I over do things at times, but I'd 100% agree with boxing in the plates, and also second @ideabrickworks9043 on adding some triangulation - you're putting rotation / flex on the existing mounts that they didn't have from factory, so may not be able to withstand.
@electricsupercar or use your 3d printer to make some caps to insert in the top, just make a slit in it to allow a screw driver under it to be able to remove in the future
I know you've gotten a lot of advice and criticism for your build, a lot of which is very helpful advice, but I give you a ton of respect for what you're doing. It takes a lot of effort and commitment to do it. With that said, it would probably be a good idea to use grade 8 bolts to attach that frame. Keep up the great work!! 💪🔥
As others have noted, I believe your motor mounts need a reexamination. Assuming the subframe is rock solid in itself, you've essentially set up a rectangle mounted at four points on pivots with arms to an additional pair of pivots in the front, and more solid connections in the back. You can imagine it with paper pieces representing your parts and pins through the paper where you have bolts and sleeves. The rectangle will want to twist around laterally on the arms and pivots. The bar across and joining the front mount arms will help in preventing lateral movement, but you're relying purely on the strength of the welds to the tube and your arm plate to not bend/tear sideways. The tube may be large enough diameter to handle that though. The way to look at this should be thinking about all the pivot points you have, and if you need to eliminate pivots to prevent twisting and instead end up with a constrained part that can't twist despite it being mounted on pivots. The place to start here would be the front mounts, as you have added two pivots to the original design with the addition of the arms. Adding a second location from the Nissan frame to the front mount arms would triangulate them, locking the arms laterally in position and removing pivots from the subframe mounting system. That would reduce your number of pivots back to the four original ones directly at the subframe mount points. Note that I exclude the rear mounts above since they have two bolts holding the mount to the Nissan frame, but I am still a bit suspect of the rear mounts. The two bolts to the Nissan frame may solidify them enough laterally, but I expect only if the front mounts are at least equally solid laterally. Another concern I saw was with the mount arms and vertical strenght. Adding the arms to extend mount points means you've added torsion forces to the Nissan frame mount points that would otherwise have been force directly up into the frame. Now those arms, with the new subframe pushing up into them, will want to twist the Nissan frame mount points. You should definitely investigate adding support from your new mounting arms to a point on the Nissan frame above the arm itself, to act as a location where upwards force on the mount can be dealt with better than levering on the mount arms. Adding on to what has already been said, the mount arms as constructed with only parallel plates are too prone to folding over. Definitely box them in to strengthen them.
Another way to handle all the solidifying from what I mentioned above could be to flip your frame of reference. I wrote the above in reference to the Nissan frame. Basically, making arms and solidly mounting them to the Nissan frame with the goal of moving the Nissan's mount points. You can flip this entirely though and use the subframe as reference. Add the arms to the subframe and solidify the mounting of the arms to the subframe with the goal of moving the subframe's mount points. Depending on space constraints and other things in the way, it may be easier to do one or the other, but either way, those mount points need to be solidly attached and fixed to either the Nissan frame or the subframe.
Great build! Noted that you made dust collectors in the extension frame. Maybe it’s a minor thing where this car will live. Where I live it would be major rust developers in a hurry.
For the coilover issue , I suppose the easiest solution would be an offset/uneven shim to help angle and sit flat . Looking forward to the next video for this Nissan build .
Please reconsider your motor mounts. They are only connected at two points each, so the only thing keeping them from tipping / bending up and down is the lenght of bolt sticking out from the frame an your sleeve fit over it. That MAY even be enough, but I don't think it was designed with bending forces in mind. You have createds a moment arm that is applying torque whereas the Nissan subframe sat flat on there and was only transmitting pulling and pushing forces. It may feel sturdy but going over a bump the forces are easily multiples of the car's weight, so it my over time destroy itself, or worst case fail dramatically when driving through a bad pothole. Considering your suspension strut: The bolt shouldn't be loaded from an angle. If you can neutralize that with e. g. a flexible bushing, then maybe. I'm an engineer, but not an automitive engineer.
I know their a little expensive but if you're going to be doing this as a business it's worth it. What you need is a solar powered welding hood. They don't have batteries to die and fail on you. It's powered by the arc flash itself. They usually have an adjustment on them for how dark it gets and what the "turn on" threshold is. I know that Miller and Lincoln both make a really good one. Check with your local welding supply and see what they have. Also, see if they'll let you try them before you buy one. Most reputable shops will let you do that.
Welding helmet is 'solar', no batteries. Keep the solar thing clean. I've had issues with mine, so I cleaned it & it worked. It wasn't visually very dirty, either.
Visually the design doesn't look sturdy enough... 1. Have you done FEA to ensure the structure will hold together under the load? This is a must when touching the BIW. 2. I would suggest using the original Tesla coils on the subframe and original Tesla shock absorbers. Modifying the original suspension design will add more variables to the build with unknown outcomes.
I think those Nissan subframe studs are going to be receiving unwanted axial, or twisting load by cantalevering out to the subframe. Is there not a way to add more material above the Tesla cups so they can push up against the frame?
You can use a bushing and shim plate in the bottom swing arm mount in order to get the shock tower alignment where you need it, as long as you have enough clearance for the coil-over. I'd make a cardboard mock up of a coil-over to check for clearance between the two mounting locations before you commit to that option. But that would be way easier than modifying the upper mount location. You could keep the spring and damper separate the way Tesla has it, that way the damper could fit more easily without a spring also needing to fit in that area.
would adding a "web" piece of steel help? something like 3/8" plate triangle that connects horizontally to tie in the tesla side mount to the bracing pipe, then another from the car side mount to the bracing pipe? that and boxing in the exiting connection...
Since you end up doing a lot of welding on curves and tubing you should take a look at Jerome Fielding's channel where he created a foot controlled rotating welding fixture so he could do better welds while building his robot arm. Should be something you can put together in just a few hours and parts from a junkyard if I remember right.
Can you cut the shock mount towers out of the back and swap L to R? Depending on if they would still fit that would move the upper shock mount a few inches aft and may line up with the lower arm hole. Love the build!
I thinking there is a lot of bracket lever between the original bolts and new. There should be more attachments to try minimize flex At rear bolt of subframe you can add another bracket at top welded to the chassis and do something at front as well Car is heavy and motor a lot of torque Overall, great fabrication work Love you project and following
Some of those welds had me cringing. A weekend class at a trade school could help with technique and help you get good penetration. The vulcan welding helmets are pretty good feom harbor freight
Imo the slight angle of the coilovers is not a problem. All suspensions have more or less angles. More concerning is because of that angle will they rub on the walls of the original housing. But only mounting them with eventual test drive will show.
Suggestion for welding.... try some straight weld runs instead of wiggling the gun around... I used to weld 1mm sheet, box section, RSJs up to 15mm plate and never used anything other than straight runs Look at the subrame you are bolting in, they are the same you can always add another run
ESAB Sentinel helmet is a great option. They don't cost a fortune, but they will protect your eyes. Those cheap helmets are ok, but once you use a quality helmet, you will never go back.
Hi Jeremy, We know EVs have tremendous torque. I picture a diving board and/or seesaw effect with the new rear bracket mount as it is. Now, I'm no expert. But I think you are asking a lot of the factory bolts hanging down on the rear mounts to support everything under torque conditions, with the new diving board mount design. It might be wise to find a way to attach 2 more points, where the round cross member meets or farther back at the round cups and take either one up to the factory frame to stiffen up the back end of the rear mounts so it can not flex and put so much stress on those single bolts hanging down. I have an idea using 4to6 pieces of flat steel, 2 pieces of round stock, 2 bolts, 2 lock-washers and nuts. Keep up the good work. All the Best, Tony
not having a flat welding table has been one of my biggest issues welding in the front yard is a close second :) .. I have alot of scrap metal to make me hold downs .. I got c channel for pieces like this .. a maker will adapt and over come and build it anyway lol ..are you 3d printing a cover for the mount keep crud out of it incase it needs to drop later on ? or 3d print a mold make silicone plug.. anything really maybe a "Rubber Expansion Freeze Plug" in the correct size ? I kind of hate to say it but I think it would be alot better with the strut to be in line not only forward and backwards but the angle of the top and axle if that helps.. I've Jimmy rigged alot of things but suspension math is something I would rather even ask AI lol because a death wobble at 200 mph is a butt chewing seat moment that will make life flash before your eyes
I’m sure the angle of the shock will be fine, but at the bottom instead of a washer, I would make more of a strap that would extend and catch the through bolt at the end of the control arm.
100% you need to brace that new sub frame from the rear aswell not just your original bolt holes. Torque will destroy those in seconds. Strengthen plates on the original rear frame. Weld in captive nuts and replicate what you did for the front side but now coming of the rear of your new subframe. 🙏🏻 🙏🏻🙏🏻
the lower mount for the strut slot the rear hole upwards till the strut lines up with the top mount then get some 1/4 plate then make tapered shims out of it weld the shims over the lower holes so that the bolt and nut do up flat not crooked simple fix no modifying the body should take no more than an hour or 2 the top of the strut will also need a plate shim on the front side of it because of the angle cheers from down under
(8:02 and following) The perimeter welds of the tube sections to the flat washers have poor penetration to the tubes... you kept the bead going too fast and high, but it only welded to the flat washers in some places. considering that you have the entire weight of the drive unit hanging down on those "washers", trying to break the weld loose, that's a bad design. You should have had a "washer" welded to BOTH ends of those tube sections, so that the weight is trying to keep the top "washer" on the tube.
I like what you're doing and the approach of bolt-in parts instead of cutting up the chassis that you're taking! For the struts I would either cut and replace the mounting plate, or use a strut with a heim joint at the bottom to take up the difference in angles. There's a few other things that I would do differently from my experience, primarily the rear mounts. I would either put a 'tower' between the frame rail and the Tesla subframe mounting position, or mirror what you did toward the front and do it to the back so that it creates a triangle where the V is your mount adapter and top - being the frame rail. What's important is loading your mounting points correctly, for the original subframe mounting face+bolt that would be tension on the rubber bushing center piece to keep it attached, and said tension also creates immense friction on the face to take up forward/back/side loads that the bolt has trouble with. What your current mount essentially creates is a lever, with the outside edge of your spacer washer being the lever point, Tesla subframe mount being the side with the mechanical advantage, and the original bolt being the victim. It gets pulled diagonally with this kind of load and with the amount of force that it experiences, I would not trust it. If you have a dial indicator I'd recommend anchoring it against the frame rail, and measuring the vertical movement of the tesla subframe mount's tube on top of the adapter, you'll see what I'm talking about as you set it down from the lift. For the welding helmets, you can go for something fancy from Optrel, Lincoln, 3M, Miller, and so on, or if you're on a budget, there's only a few optical modules that all the cheap helmets use, in the 40-70$ category you can find one with 4 sensor holes around the corners and a grind/cut/weld mode switch, with a dial that adjusts the darkening intensity on the side, and a secondary dial that adjusts response time, some versions also have the delay dial out on the side, I've had pretty good experiences with the helmets that use that particular module. When it comes to the extremely cheap welding helmets you're genuinely better off with a passive one because they don't randomly blink on you like the worst automatic ones. On the topic of welding, I think there's a lot of room for improvement for you, especially when it comes to chassis welding and other safety critical things, those spacers are certified good enough, but seeing some of those tesla subframe side cups left a sour taste in my mouth with a third of the weld being stuck to only the plate and nothing on the pipe, don't worry about how the weld looks, just make sure it holds. I think you might benefit a lot from taking a class on welding, mainly improving your consistency and repeatability. Thank you for putting out entertaining content like this! I enjoy seeing your skills improve over time!
I appreciate you making these videos. I rely on channels like yours, B is for Build, LTT and Perkins Builder Bros for most of my entertainment. Keep doing you brother. ❤
I think you'll have to keep the rear shocks lateral unless you built an extension. I think the best option is to move the top mounts to keep it lateral.
Great content! Just a tip-try looking directly at the camera instead of at yourself on the screen. It helps create a stronger connection with the audience! 🤓
After trying many cheaper helmets, I thought that seeing while welding was something you just got used to not doing. I finally spent not too much more money on a legit middle of the road Lincoln helmet (not cheap but not their top of the line) and it was like night and day! Turns out that you actually can expect to see what you are welding. Sorry, I can't remember the model number.
As other folks have mentioned, your mouths could be a lot stronger. If you make the flat plates longer, you can mount them tangent to both cylinders which gives them a much wider base to support those cylinders and then you need to box in at least a third side maybe fourth I recommend the top at a minimum just to keep it from filling up with water. Besides that you’re doing great work I love this build. You should create a Set of plans you could sell CEL. I bet you you get at least a few followers and some really interesting interpretations of your work. Keep it up!
I'm not a suspension expert but intuitively, I think the coilover should swivel on one plane during operation. So, the top and the bottom should be as close to inline as possible, in terms of the suspension swivel direction. If for nothing but bushing life, I'd aim for that. It could have damping linearity impacts as well, as an additional angle would affect the axial forces on the damper at different wheel heights. I'll look around for any aftermarket tesla suspension using coilovers. It may be best to keep the spring further in at the shorter LCA radius because the spring effectively suspends the vehicle and moving it to a larger radius may stress the LCA more than it was designed for in that area. Damper may see much less force than the spring, so it's ok for it to be more cantilevered further out on the control arm... Not that it's impossible to succeed at that, but I would err toward keeping the suspension as original as possible to avoid unforeseen problems. Moving the upper strut mount location further back/inline would help you do that. Also, while you're moving the upper damper mount, you can use that opportunity to match the height to the model 3 height, if possible. It will be necessary to avoid overextending or underextending the strut due to the to mounting position. If you can, find out how far the top strut mount is from perhaps one of the subframe mounts and match that as close as you can. Update- it does look like there are aftermarket coilover offerings for Model 3 but it still might be good practice to start from a config that was known good for model 3, then make changes as needed for this car's different parameters.
Thank you so much for this amazing video! A bit off-topic, but I wanted to ask: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). How can I transfer them to Binance?
With a spherical mount on the coil over you shouldnt have any issue with the angle.. I’d be more worried about having that much caster is the back… feels like that might cause a problem but I’ve never really looked into it so maybe ignore me
Welding the adapter down-hand(from top to bottom gravitationally) is the weakest weld. If you had a 4"x1/4 length of box iron (HSS) and drilled holes in it then positioned all the welds on the horizontal it would give you better welds without and other skill, which you can learn later. Using the same of box piece over multiple projects. Also just tack parts in place in position, to be bench welded later? You kinda did, and kinda didn't. -I second the comment about plating them, doesn't need to be complete end to end. The only 2 sides is effectively creating a very rigid spring box with torsion on the plates ending at the end of a weld, the weakest part of said weld. -Remember a sub-frame and thus sub-frame adapter is meant to be a rigid-body.
I want to tell you a advice you make your videos little bit happier and speak like because you speak very boring under youtubers they are very comedy and always try to tell you in fun ways like chrisfix
Just add something different like cool animations make the video fun to watch your videos are very boring to watch very informative as well Main Ek video little bit fun to watch adjust little bit smile and speak good
With respect, I think you should box in those two plates of the motor mount extension. IMHO, you are going to get some lateral flexure on the inner plate and it will be prone to fatigue. I also think you’re going to get a torsional flexure that you’re not accounting for. Just an old engineer’s recommendation. Love this build. Super cool.
Thanks for the input, I'll consider that!
This old engineer agrees! Also, I would put another bracket from the Tesla mounts to the frame rails just above to triangulate, so your adapter mount is secured in 4 locations instead of 2.
A young engineer agrees too
Just here to agree!
I know I over do things at times, but I'd 100% agree with boxing in the plates, and also second @ideabrickworks9043 on adding some triangulation - you're putting rotation / flex on the existing mounts that they didn't have from factory, so may not be able to withstand.
I'd add some small holes in the 'cups' that bolt to the motor subframe. If they get water in, it has no where to go
Great point!
@electricsupercar or use your 3d printer to make some caps to insert in the top, just make a slit in it to allow a screw driver under it to be able to remove in the future
Or some 3D printed caps
I know you've gotten a lot of advice and criticism for your build, a lot of which is very helpful advice, but I give you a ton of respect for what you're doing. It takes a lot of effort and commitment to do it. With that said, it would probably be a good idea to use grade 8 bolts to attach that frame. Keep up the great work!! 💪🔥
Thanks for the heads up, I'll keep that in mind!
You did better than me 😂.for the shock mount, I would make a lower mount using Heim joints. They may cost a little more but well worth it.
Good call!
As others have noted, I believe your motor mounts need a reexamination. Assuming the subframe is rock solid in itself, you've essentially set up a rectangle mounted at four points on pivots with arms to an additional pair of pivots in the front, and more solid connections in the back. You can imagine it with paper pieces representing your parts and pins through the paper where you have bolts and sleeves. The rectangle will want to twist around laterally on the arms and pivots. The bar across and joining the front mount arms will help in preventing lateral movement, but you're relying purely on the strength of the welds to the tube and your arm plate to not bend/tear sideways. The tube may be large enough diameter to handle that though.
The way to look at this should be thinking about all the pivot points you have, and if you need to eliminate pivots to prevent twisting and instead end up with a constrained part that can't twist despite it being mounted on pivots. The place to start here would be the front mounts, as you have added two pivots to the original design with the addition of the arms. Adding a second location from the Nissan frame to the front mount arms would triangulate them, locking the arms laterally in position and removing pivots from the subframe mounting system. That would reduce your number of pivots back to the four original ones directly at the subframe mount points. Note that I exclude the rear mounts above since they have two bolts holding the mount to the Nissan frame, but I am still a bit suspect of the rear mounts. The two bolts to the Nissan frame may solidify them enough laterally, but I expect only if the front mounts are at least equally solid laterally.
Another concern I saw was with the mount arms and vertical strenght. Adding the arms to extend mount points means you've added torsion forces to the Nissan frame mount points that would otherwise have been force directly up into the frame. Now those arms, with the new subframe pushing up into them, will want to twist the Nissan frame mount points. You should definitely investigate adding support from your new mounting arms to a point on the Nissan frame above the arm itself, to act as a location where upwards force on the mount can be dealt with better than levering on the mount arms.
Adding on to what has already been said, the mount arms as constructed with only parallel plates are too prone to folding over. Definitely box them in to strengthen them.
Another way to handle all the solidifying from what I mentioned above could be to flip your frame of reference. I wrote the above in reference to the Nissan frame. Basically, making arms and solidly mounting them to the Nissan frame with the goal of moving the Nissan's mount points.
You can flip this entirely though and use the subframe as reference. Add the arms to the subframe and solidify the mounting of the arms to the subframe with the goal of moving the subframe's mount points.
Depending on space constraints and other things in the way, it may be easier to do one or the other, but either way, those mount points need to be solidly attached and fixed to either the Nissan frame or the subframe.
Great build! Noted that you made dust collectors in the extension frame. Maybe it’s a minor thing where this car will live. Where I live it would be major rust developers in a hurry.
I need to make some dust caps
Other real welders can comment, but it seems you are low on heat, or too high on wire feed. Great work!!😁
I work at making this at the factory in Sweden. By this and you won't be disappointed. 3M™ Speedglas™ 9100XXi. Keep up with the good clips. 👍😊
For the coilover issue , I suppose the easiest solution would be an offset/uneven shim to help angle and sit flat .
Looking forward to the next video for this Nissan build .
Please reconsider your motor mounts. They are only connected at two points each, so the only thing keeping them from tipping / bending up and down is the lenght of bolt sticking out from the frame an your sleeve fit over it.
That MAY even be enough, but I don't think it was designed with bending forces in mind. You have createds a moment arm that is applying torque whereas the Nissan subframe sat flat on there and was only transmitting pulling and pushing forces.
It may feel sturdy but going over a bump the forces are easily multiples of the car's weight, so it my over time destroy itself, or worst case fail dramatically when driving through a bad pothole.
Considering your suspension strut: The bolt shouldn't be loaded from an angle. If you can neutralize that with e. g. a flexible bushing, then maybe. I'm an engineer, but not an automitive engineer.
As a shade tree mechanic I was thinking a good enough bushing would *probably* make that angle work ok.
Would it be a good idea to 'box in' those new mounting assemblies to help with lateral support?
Yeah… first thing I thought. Or make them out of square tubing to begin with?
I know their a little expensive but if you're going to be doing this as a business it's worth it. What you need is a solar powered welding hood. They don't have batteries to die and fail on you. It's powered by the arc flash itself. They usually have an adjustment on them for how dark it gets and what the "turn on" threshold is. I know that Miller and Lincoln both make a really good one. Check with your local welding supply and see what they have. Also, see if they'll let you try them before you buy one. Most reputable shops will let you do that.
Welding helmet is 'solar', no batteries. Keep the solar thing clean. I've had issues with mine, so I cleaned it & it worked. It wasn't visually very dirty, either.
Good to know, thanks!
If you get a plasma cutter, you can save a lot on cutting parts
Visually the design doesn't look sturdy enough... 1. Have you done FEA to ensure the structure will hold together under the load? This is a must when touching the BIW. 2. I would suggest using the original Tesla coils on the subframe and original Tesla shock absorbers. Modifying the original suspension design will add more variables to the build with unknown outcomes.
Would you consider a Welding sponsor reach out to me? I own a welding supply in Miami and it pains me to watch you weld in such conditions.😂
I would welcome any welding sponsors!
The Lincoln electric Helmets with the 4C feature might help. They tend to have a blue tint rather than green as well.
Nice!
Thanks for all the work.
I appreciate you watching!
I think those Nissan subframe studs are going to be receiving unwanted axial, or twisting load by cantalevering out to the subframe. Is there not a way to add more material above the Tesla cups so they can push up against the frame?
You can use a bushing and shim plate in the bottom swing arm mount in order to get the shock tower alignment where you need it, as long as you have enough clearance for the coil-over. I'd make a cardboard mock up of a coil-over to check for clearance between the two mounting locations before you commit to that option. But that would be way easier than modifying the upper mount location. You could keep the spring and damper separate the way Tesla has it, that way the damper could fit more easily without a spring also needing to fit in that area.
would adding a "web" piece of steel help? something like 3/8" plate triangle that connects horizontally to tie in the tesla side mount to the bracing pipe, then another from the car side mount to the bracing pipe? that and boxing in the exiting connection...
Another great video! The other comments seem to have everything covered, so, Happy New Year to you and the family.
Since you end up doing a lot of welding on curves and tubing you should take a look at Jerome Fielding's channel where he created a foot controlled rotating welding fixture so he could do better welds while building his robot arm. Should be something you can put together in just a few hours and parts from a junkyard if I remember right.
Nice!
Thanks for sharing!!! Happy new year !!!
Happy New Year to you too!
Love your videos. I find myself chomping at the bit waiting for the next one.
Glad you're enjoying them!
Can you cut the shock mount towers out of the back and swap L to R? Depending on if they would still fit that would move the upper shock mount a few inches aft and may line up with the lower arm hole. Love the build!
Motor mounts look sturdy! 💪 Love a bit of over engineering 😊👍 just needs a "that ain't going no where" tap tap ....
Thanks!
I thinking there is a lot of bracket lever between the original bolts and new. There should be more attachments to try minimize flex
At rear bolt of subframe you can add another bracket at top welded to the chassis and do something at front as well
Car is heavy and motor a lot of torque
Overall, great fabrication work
Love you project and following
Some of those welds had me cringing. A weekend class at a trade school could help with technique and help you get good penetration. The vulcan welding helmets are pretty good feom harbor freight
Imo the slight angle of the coilovers is not a problem. All suspensions have more or less angles. More concerning is because of that angle will they rub on the walls of the original housing. But only mounting them with eventual test drive will show.
Suggestion for welding.... try some straight weld runs instead of wiggling the gun around...
I used to weld 1mm sheet, box section, RSJs up to 15mm plate and never used anything other than straight runs
Look at the subrame you are bolting in, they are the same
you can always add another run
Thanks for the tip
ESAB Sentinel helmet is a great option. They don't cost a fortune, but they will protect your eyes. Those cheap helmets are ok, but once you use a quality helmet, you will never go back.
Hi Jeremy, We know EVs have tremendous torque. I picture a diving board and/or seesaw effect with the new rear bracket mount as it is. Now, I'm no expert. But I think you are asking a lot of the factory bolts hanging down on the rear mounts to support everything under torque conditions, with the new diving board mount design. It might be wise to find a way to attach 2 more points, where the round cross member meets or farther back at the round cups and take either one up to the factory frame to stiffen up the back end of the rear mounts so it can not flex and put so much stress on those single bolts hanging down. I have an idea using 4to6 pieces of flat steel, 2 pieces of round stock, 2 bolts, 2 lock-washers and nuts. Keep up the good work. All the Best, Tony
not having a flat welding table has been one of my biggest issues welding in the front yard is a close second :) .. I have alot of scrap metal to make me hold downs .. I got c channel for pieces like this .. a maker will adapt and over come and build it anyway lol ..are you 3d printing a cover for the mount keep crud out of it incase it needs to drop later on ? or 3d print a mold make silicone plug.. anything really maybe a "Rubber Expansion Freeze Plug" in the correct size ? I kind of hate to say it but I think it would be alot better with the strut to be in line not only forward and backwards but the angle of the top and axle if that helps.. I've Jimmy rigged alot of things but suspension math is something I would rather even ask AI lol because a death wobble at 200 mph is a butt chewing seat moment that will make life flash before your eyes
I’m sure the angle of the shock will be fine, but at the bottom instead of a washer, I would make more of a strap that would extend and catch the through bolt at the end of the control arm.
100% you need to brace that new sub frame from the rear aswell not just your original bolt holes. Torque will destroy those in seconds. Strengthen plates on the original rear frame. Weld in captive nuts and replicate what you did for the front side but now coming of the rear of your new subframe. 🙏🏻 🙏🏻🙏🏻
the lower mount for the strut slot the rear hole upwards till the strut lines up with the top mount then get some 1/4 plate then make tapered shims out of it weld the shims over the lower holes so that the bolt and nut do up flat not crooked simple fix no modifying the body should take no more than an hour or 2 the top of the strut will also need a plate shim on the front side of it because of the angle cheers from down under
Thanks for the comment. I may need a diagram, I don't follow.
Looking good!
Glad you like it!
I second what someone else said, those front mounts should be boxed in or at least braced from torsion.
(8:02 and following) The perimeter welds of the tube sections to the flat washers have poor penetration to the tubes... you kept the bead going too fast and high, but it only welded to the flat washers in some places.
considering that you have the entire weight of the drive unit hanging down on those "washers", trying to break the weld loose, that's a bad design. You should have had a "washer" welded to BOTH ends of those tube sections, so that the weight is trying to keep the top "washer" on the tube.
I like what you're doing and the approach of bolt-in parts instead of cutting up the chassis that you're taking! For the struts I would either cut and replace the mounting plate, or use a strut with a heim joint at the bottom to take up the difference in angles.
There's a few other things that I would do differently from my experience, primarily the rear mounts.
I would either put a 'tower' between the frame rail and the Tesla subframe mounting position, or mirror what you did toward the front and do it to the back so that it creates a triangle where the V is your mount adapter and top - being the frame rail.
What's important is loading your mounting points correctly, for the original subframe mounting face+bolt that would be tension on the rubber bushing center piece to keep it attached, and said tension also creates immense friction on the face to take up forward/back/side loads that the bolt has trouble with.
What your current mount essentially creates is a lever, with the outside edge of your spacer washer being the lever point, Tesla subframe mount being the side with the mechanical advantage, and the original bolt being the victim. It gets pulled diagonally with this kind of load and with the amount of force that it experiences, I would not trust it. If you have a dial indicator I'd recommend anchoring it against the frame rail, and measuring the vertical movement of the tesla subframe mount's tube on top of the adapter, you'll see what I'm talking about as you set it down from the lift.
For the welding helmets, you can go for something fancy from Optrel, Lincoln, 3M, Miller, and so on, or if you're on a budget, there's only a few optical modules that all the cheap helmets use, in the 40-70$ category you can find one with 4 sensor holes around the corners and a grind/cut/weld mode switch, with a dial that adjusts the darkening intensity on the side, and a secondary dial that adjusts response time, some versions also have the delay dial out on the side, I've had pretty good experiences with the helmets that use that particular module. When it comes to the extremely cheap welding helmets you're genuinely better off with a passive one because they don't randomly blink on you like the worst automatic ones.
On the topic of welding, I think there's a lot of room for improvement for you, especially when it comes to chassis welding and other safety critical things, those spacers are certified good enough, but seeing some of those tesla subframe side cups left a sour taste in my mouth with a third of the weld being stuck to only the plate and nothing on the pipe, don't worry about how the weld looks, just make sure it holds. I think you might benefit a lot from taking a class on welding, mainly improving your consistency and repeatability.
Thank you for putting out entertaining content like this! I enjoy seeing your skills improve over time!
I appreciate you making these videos. I rely on channels like yours, B is for Build, LTT and Perkins Builder Bros for most of my entertainment. Keep doing you brother. ❤
Thanks friend!
To minimize warping the golden rule is the same as in algebra: "Do on to one side what you do onto the other one at a time"😉
thanks for the tip
Using uniball mounts, you should be able to use the existing mounts with small angle to it
good call
I think you'll have to keep the rear shocks lateral unless you built an extension. I think the best option is to move the top mounts to keep it lateral.
I really like the ESAB sentinel welding helmet
Thanks, I'll check it out!
I think you should add some strength between those 2 plates you welded for the motor mount. With enough torque, it could bend it
Thanks for the heads up!
I can't stop watching, but I feel bad for the Z 😢 a little😅
esab welding helmet pricey but I like my eyes
harbor freight welding table is pretty good.....really good for the price
Another great video!!
I’m loving this project. This era of Z was my favorite.
Thanks for the comment!
Great content! Just a tip-try looking directly at the camera instead of at yourself on the screen. It helps create a stronger connection with the audience! 🤓
Thanks for the tip!
Funny, I know Wolfbox from their air duster that is highly rated
Hold up a stick, or something straight & colorful, to show where you are considering to mount the strut.
You should try steel it Paint.
good call
After trying many cheaper helmets, I thought that seeing while welding was something you just got used to not doing. I finally spent not too much more money on a legit middle of the road Lincoln helmet (not cheap but not their top of the line) and it was like night and day! Turns out that you actually can expect to see what you are welding. Sorry, I can't remember the model number.
Use high misalignment hardware at true bottom mount and that top suspension location should be fine. Slightly progressive rate, probably. : )
Thanks!
As other folks have mentioned, your mouths could be a lot stronger. If you make the flat plates longer, you can mount them tangent to both cylinders which gives them a much wider base to support those cylinders and then you need to box in at least a third side maybe fourth I recommend the top at a minimum just to keep it from filling up with water. Besides that you’re doing great work I love this build. You should create a Set of plans you could sell CEL. I bet you you get at least a few followers and some really interesting interpretations of your work. Keep it up!
Thanks for the feedback, I’ll consider that!
Maybe just make the bottom mount of the shock have an offset attachment. Hard to tell from a Quick Look if it could work
thanks for the comment
3D print some covers to go over the cups to prevent dirt and water from getting in and rusting.
Good call
@electricsupercar keep up the good work. I love watching your show. All the best for 2025.
was thinking the same thing
When is the website going live?
I'm not a suspension expert but intuitively, I think the coilover should swivel on one plane during operation. So, the top and the bottom should be as close to inline as possible, in terms of the suspension swivel direction. If for nothing but bushing life, I'd aim for that. It could have damping linearity impacts as well, as an additional angle would affect the axial forces on the damper at different wheel heights.
I'll look around for any aftermarket tesla suspension using coilovers. It may be best to keep the spring further in at the shorter LCA radius because the spring effectively suspends the vehicle and moving it to a larger radius may stress the LCA more than it was designed for in that area. Damper may see much less force than the spring, so it's ok for it to be more cantilevered further out on the control arm...
Not that it's impossible to succeed at that, but I would err toward keeping the suspension as original as possible to avoid unforeseen problems.
Moving the upper strut mount location further back/inline would help you do that.
Also, while you're moving the upper damper mount, you can use that opportunity to match the height to the model 3 height, if possible. It will be necessary to avoid overextending or underextending the strut due to the to mounting position. If you can, find out how far the top strut mount is from perhaps one of the subframe mounts and match that as close as you can.
Update- it does look like there are aftermarket coilover offerings for Model 3 but it still might be good practice to start from a config that was known good for model 3, then make changes as needed for this car's different parameters.
Great point! I'll consider that!
Thank you so much for this amazing video! A bit off-topic, but I wanted to ask: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). How can I transfer them to Binance?
No living in the US, I hope someone there will want to have a bmw e46 cabrio dual motor 😇, would love to follow that build too
@lincolnelectrictv got any recommendations on a better welding helmet for Jeremy? #savetheeyeballs #WeldRed #WeldRedNation
You might want to reach out to whoever you got your welder from. They might be interested in having you do a demo, or some other sponsored content
Will you be keeping the 300ZX front and rear steering system operational? Or will this become a Tesla with a 300ZX body on top?
@@ocker2000 no rear steering
I’d recommend straight up and down. There will be too many strange forces acting on what appears to be really thin metal at the bottom.
Noted!
That mount looks really nice. Great work :)
Thanks a lot!
What ever happened with the A/C for this car? You said you were going to share the details of what compressor you used.
th-cam.com/video/W4I96i-hDJ0/w-d-xo.html
@@electricsupercar That says "Part 2 coming soon" What PWM controller did you use?
@notmyname9876 I used this one
amzn.to/422HEoK
I have to hook up my battery pack before I can release part 2
Algo
With a spherical mount on the coil over you shouldnt have any issue with the angle..
I’d be more worried about having that much caster is the back… feels like that might cause a problem but I’ve never really looked into it so maybe ignore me
I think little right it's would be OK if not just make new hole make it straight
If converting electric cars isn’t working out as well, you should see about becoming a small 3rd party ev repair through teslas program.
Thanks for the suggestion!
The Nissan model 300
👍💪✌
Like some comments here say - box it and make a water hole
Welding the adapter down-hand(from top to bottom gravitationally) is the weakest weld. If you had a 4"x1/4 length of box iron (HSS) and drilled holes in it then positioned all the welds on the horizontal it would give you better welds without and other skill, which you can learn later. Using the same of box piece over multiple projects. Also just tack parts in place in position, to be bench welded later? You kinda did, and kinda didn't.
-I second the comment about plating them, doesn't need to be complete end to end. The only 2 sides is effectively creating a very rigid spring box with torsion on the plates ending at the end of a weld, the weakest part of said weld.
-Remember a sub-frame and thus sub-frame adapter is meant to be a rigid-body.
this video makes me want a tesla with a diesel engine that can do burnouts and create huge clouds of black sud everywhere
Try the original hole first
Got it
Were you grinding steel over carpet? (@10:30)
dude...stop. I don't care if the carpet is trash, it is very hazardous.
What are you doing?
Read the video title
@@Jim.D He is ruining automotive icons
@@shiekhwaleedmiral-protein2819 a 300z isn't an icon
I want to tell you a advice you make your videos little bit happier and speak like because you speak very boring under youtubers they are very comedy and always try to tell you in fun ways like chrisfix
Just add something different like cool animations make the video fun to watch your videos are very boring to watch very informative as well Main Ek video little bit fun to watch adjust little bit smile and speak good
This is my dream. But I would have prefered they used the Z31 chassis.