Great video really helpful will be doing this tomorrow. My discs are even worse than yours with big grooves in them. Not great. Luckily a lot less rust in South East England!
Cheers Richard! I had a look at a car at the weekend that spent most of it's life near Gatwick. What a difference compared to a car that's spent its life up here with all the salt! Hope your brake job went as well as possible! 😇
Nice one Gav, love the humour 🤣. Don’t know which model you have there… but I have similar to do on mine (MoT failure 🙄)…. Also another job I’ve done (with help from global TH-camrs- ) was coil pack replacement. Bloody engine (4 pot) has 8 plugs and 8 coil packs! Honda want a kings ransom to replace (circa £100+ each pack!) Needless to say - eBay was useful coming in at 1/6 Hondas (part only) price. (Must be the Scot’s’ in me 😉) 👍👍
On the previous Jazz - it started kangarooing and it was the back plugs that caused the problem. Got a full set from Eurocarparts and that cured it. The gap was really wide and I suspect they had never been changed from new!
I've just finished this job, and decided to replace the whole shooting match. Pads, discs, calipers, shims, and guide pins & boots. The problem seems to be the caliper brackets, in particular the holes where the guide pins seat themselves. There was a ton of corrosion in each cylinder, on both rear brackets. These aren't for sale anywhere, so I had to use various grinding and polishing drill bits to clean the metal sleeves so that the guide pins would move freely. For anyone who is taking on this job, I'd strongly advise to check and clean these holes until they are gleaming, otherwise you'll be back at square one in no time. Stuck guide pins leads to uneven braking, leads to cooked caliper pistons, leads to general loss of braking performance, and an MOT failure. If your handbrake is underperforming and your discs are wearing unevenly, it's not just a quick nip up of the handbrake cable adjustment nut. I hope this is helpful to someone.
Yeah, once water gets into the rubber grommets the slide pins can easily seize up. I've got another video that goes into more detail on the handbrake adjustment as it's a known weak point of this model and also the Civic. Think it's this one to get the best out of the handbrake th-cam.com/video/qews-vza5Dg/w-d-xo.html turned out the rear right caliper was defective and I replaced and re-adjusted everything in this video th-cam.com/video/R4PUVg47kAI/w-d-xo.html and the handbrake was great. Still better off with the earlier drums, if you ask me!
@@gtd65I saw these other vids thanks. Good all-round analysis of the rear braking system. Totally agree that the handbrake system is pants to begin with. Although, I'm not a huge fan of drums either. I've had the displeasure of doing rear drums on a Hyundai i30 before, and there's built-in issues with that system too. The handbrake linkage inside the drum is open to corrosion, and even after replacing and polishing everything in sight, you're only 12-18 months from a complete teardown again. I wonder if anyone has found an upgrade solution for the Jazz rear brakes? Not just taking about more pots and bigger brakes. Just something that replicates the mid-2000s VW setup (pre electric handbrake). My old Golf was rock solid in this area.
@@ottofumbler7267 we previously had the Jazz with the rear drums and it was fine for the handbrake function, especially compared to the discs. I've not really had problems with the handbrake on any of the cars I've bought other than the Jazz and also my KIA Ceed, which is probably the identical set up to the i30 (I've got a video of that as well). With the Ceed, the handbrake wasn't working properly on the rear driver side and after a tear down it was an extremely seized up and rusty operating lever. I was actually surprised that it cleaned up so well. The hand brake is really good but I prefer a more simple solution, like only using pads on the disc.
@@gtd65 You're absolutely right. The C'eed and i30 have an identical setup. In fact, it was a tutorial for the C'eed that I used to tackle the job on the i30. Good luck with drum teardown and clean-up longevity on the C'eed. There's literally nothing there to stop it crusting up again on our salty roads. Well, maybe some zinc paint would help. At least next time you'll know where to focus your efforts.
Hi same car, same colour,same year..😀Replaced rear caliper,hooked all up and the piston is not moving. Opened the bleeder and there is a dribble of fluid coming through, not with any real pressure though....when I took the old caliper off, i had to leave it so i clamped off the flexi hose with a vice grips.....it stayed over night like that......did I crush the hose innards hence no piston moving? Cheers!
Pat, if you open the bleeder and get somebody to press the brake pedal (assuming you've put a bit of pipe into a jar), does the fluid come through OK? It might be that you could undo the banjo bolt that secures the brake hose onto the caliper and see if that allows the fluid to come through? If it still does not come through you may well be correct that there's a problem with the hose. Are you aware of doing anything that might have caused a problem with it?
@@gtd65 Cheers Gt, well got up this morning and gave the pedal a good pumping....."oooh err missus"...😄 Found a puddle of fluid on the ground.....seemed to be coming from the handbrake linkeage.......rang the shop and they told me to return for an exchange......will have it tomm so hopefully will be back on the road......much obliged for the reply!
Work my 2011 model this same calliper housing won't go back on over to of the new pads and calliper mounting bracket because the handbrake hydraulic line is too tight.
@soundknight from memory this is more of an issue on the driver side (UK/RHD) rear brake caliper? One thing you have to verify is the position of the caliper piston cross shape, relative to the raised bumps on the inner brake pad that has to be aligned to accept the caliper. If not, it will not slide into place, no matter how hard you try. It might be an idea to make sure the handbrake cable (is it not a cable, rather than a hydraulic line?) is fully released.
@brycegrozili9794, the parts were sourced on eBay UK. Might be an idea to look over the border, in the USA, using rockauto.com? You might get parts sent to Canada by UK sellers but it's not something I've had experience of.
@@brycegrozli9794 here is an example link. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304564804911?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Kz6ruQlnQTe&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=W5DndEWpToO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Best explained video I have watched on fixing cars. Fair play.
Cheers Paul. Car went in for MOT in February and no problems with handbrake this time 😁
Great video really helpful will be doing this tomorrow. My discs are even worse than yours with big grooves in them. Not great. Luckily a lot less rust in South East England!
Cheers Richard! I had a look at a car at the weekend that spent most of it's life near Gatwick. What a difference compared to a car that's spent its life up here with all the salt! Hope your brake job went as well as possible! 😇
Watching from France...Very clear english with very good explanation Sir..
Thanks a lot ..I have the same car and I follow your video carefully..
@@husseinlodhee2357 merci beaucoup Lodhee. I'm actually in Paris as I type 😉
WHERE SIR
@@husseinlodhee2357 right now I'm on the Batobus at Notre Dame.
@@gtd65 YOU WILL STAY HOW MANY DAYS IN Paris
have you a portable number
Nice one Gav, love the humour 🤣.
Don’t know which model you have there… but I have similar to do on mine (MoT failure 🙄)…. Also another job I’ve done (with help from global TH-camrs- ) was coil pack replacement. Bloody engine (4 pot) has 8 plugs and 8 coil packs! Honda want a kings ransom to replace (circa £100+ each pack!)
Needless to say - eBay was useful coming in at 1/6 Hondas (part only) price.
(Must be the Scot’s’ in me 😉) 👍👍
On the previous Jazz - it started kangarooing and it was the back plugs that caused the problem. Got a full set from Eurocarparts and that cured it. The gap was really wide and I suspect they had never been changed from new!
I've just finished this job, and decided to replace the whole shooting match. Pads, discs, calipers, shims, and guide pins & boots.
The problem seems to be the caliper brackets, in particular the holes where the guide pins seat themselves. There was a ton of corrosion in each cylinder, on both rear brackets. These aren't for sale anywhere, so I had to use various grinding and polishing drill bits to clean the metal sleeves so that the guide pins would move freely.
For anyone who is taking on this job, I'd strongly advise to check and clean these holes until they are gleaming, otherwise you'll be back at square one in no time. Stuck guide pins leads to uneven braking, leads to cooked caliper pistons, leads to general loss of braking performance, and an MOT failure.
If your handbrake is underperforming and your discs are wearing unevenly, it's not just a quick nip up of the handbrake cable adjustment nut. I hope this is helpful to someone.
Yeah, once water gets into the rubber grommets the slide pins can easily seize up. I've got another video that goes into more detail on the handbrake adjustment as it's a known weak point of this model and also the Civic. Think it's this one to get the best out of the handbrake th-cam.com/video/qews-vza5Dg/w-d-xo.html
turned out the rear right caliper was defective and I replaced and re-adjusted everything in this video
th-cam.com/video/R4PUVg47kAI/w-d-xo.html
and the handbrake was great. Still better off with the earlier drums, if you ask me!
@@gtd65I saw these other vids thanks. Good all-round analysis of the rear braking system. Totally agree that the handbrake system is pants to begin with. Although, I'm not a huge fan of drums either.
I've had the displeasure of doing rear drums on a Hyundai i30 before, and there's built-in issues with that system too. The handbrake linkage inside the drum is open to corrosion, and even after replacing and polishing everything in sight, you're only 12-18 months from a complete teardown again.
I wonder if anyone has found an upgrade solution for the Jazz rear brakes? Not just taking about more pots and bigger brakes. Just something that replicates the mid-2000s VW setup (pre electric handbrake). My old Golf was rock solid in this area.
@@ottofumbler7267 we previously had the Jazz with the rear drums and it was fine for the handbrake function, especially compared to the discs.
I've not really had problems with the handbrake on any of the cars I've bought other than the Jazz and also my KIA Ceed, which is probably the identical set up to the i30 (I've got a video of that as well).
With the Ceed, the handbrake wasn't working properly on the rear driver side and after a tear down it was an extremely seized up and rusty operating lever. I was actually surprised that it cleaned up so well. The hand brake is really good but I prefer a more simple solution, like only using pads on the disc.
@@gtd65 You're absolutely right. The C'eed and i30 have an identical setup. In fact, it was a tutorial for the C'eed that I used to tackle the job on the i30. Good luck with drum teardown and clean-up longevity on the C'eed. There's literally nothing there to stop it crusting up again on our salty roads. Well, maybe some zinc paint would help. At least next time you'll know where to focus your efforts.
Thanks for uploading. Very helpful.
forgot the plastic ring once, drove for a week without it... didn't notice anything off hehe
It's a bummer when you think you have finished the job!
Hi same car, same colour,same year..😀Replaced rear caliper,hooked all up and the piston is not moving. Opened the bleeder and there is a dribble of fluid coming through, not with any real pressure though....when I took the old caliper off, i had to leave it so i clamped off the flexi hose with a vice grips.....it stayed over night like that......did I crush the hose innards hence no piston moving? Cheers!
Pat, if you open the bleeder and get somebody to press the brake pedal (assuming you've put a bit of pipe into a jar), does the fluid come through OK? It might be that you could undo the banjo bolt that secures the brake hose onto the caliper and see if that allows the fluid to come through? If it still does not come through you may well be correct that there's a problem with the hose. Are you aware of doing anything that might have caused a problem with it?
@@gtd65 Cheers Gt, well got up this morning and gave the pedal a good pumping....."oooh err missus"...😄 Found a puddle of fluid on the ground.....seemed to be coming from the handbrake linkeage.......rang the shop and they told me to return for an exchange......will have it tomm so hopefully will be back on the road......much obliged for the reply!
@@patscanlan2678 can't beat a good pumping 🤣
Work my 2011 model this same calliper housing won't go back on over to of the new pads and calliper mounting bracket because the handbrake hydraulic line is too tight.
@soundknight from memory this is more of an issue on the driver side (UK/RHD) rear brake caliper?
One thing you have to verify is the position of the caliper piston cross shape, relative to the raised bumps on the inner brake pad that has to be aligned to accept the caliper. If not, it will not slide into place, no matter how hard you try.
It might be an idea to make sure the handbrake cable (is it not a cable, rather than a hydraulic line?) is fully released.
Brilliantly described. Thank you!! (Stop knocking the beautiful Scottish weather 😁)
Cheers Graham, the weather is even worse today!
What site did you find parts on ? I live in Canada and it’s impossible to find calipers :(
@brycegrozili9794, the parts were sourced on eBay UK.
Might be an idea to look over the border, in the USA, using rockauto.com?
You might get parts sent to Canada by UK sellers but it's not something I've had experience of.
@@gtd65 yeah haven’t had any luck there in Canada all of the fits came with drum brakes and I’m running out of options 😂
@@brycegrozli9794 here is an example link.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304564804911?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Kz6ruQlnQTe&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=W5DndEWpToO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@brycegrozli9794 the rear drums were far easier to keep in good order, especially the handbrake function, is it the front discs you're looking for?
@@gtd65 I’m looking for the rear rotors and calipers