Thanks for explaining hand brake mechanism. Had to strip first calliper to see why piston wasn’t going in all the way. Watched another video, wasn’t very good
Overall not bad. Just a few extra points: Slider pins need some silicone grease If you don't have a proper tool instead of pliers use a flat head screwdriver(align it wit the cross pattern and rotate-don't damage the rubber seal) The screw on the rotors are not phillip's screws- they're JIS Japanese industrial standard- even with a proper screwdriver it's hard to remove them. I drilled mine out. Use a torque wrench.
Two important points missed & one wrong comment. 1. When the wheel is removed, if it was a struggle to get it off - as in this video - clean the stub end of the axle to get the rust and corrosion off. The wheel must sit square on that stub. If it doesn't , the wheel will wobble when in motion which could cause the wheel securing nuts to become loose, causing the wheel to come off! 2. There was no mention of taking precautions when the pistons are pushed back. When that happens, brake fluid is forced back to the brake fluid reservoir. You need to release the top cap of that reservoir and ideally get someone else to watch the fluid level in that reservoir so that they can tell you to 'Stop!' if that fluid will overflow. Then remove some of that fluid - to make - room - and carry on. 3. The disc securing screw must be tightly screwed in - unlike what is stated here. As this video shows, getting them unscrewed required a lot of torque - and there's a good reason for that! I always use thread locking compound, just to be sure.
I tend to agree with Jani. The screws are not the primary force holding the discs on, it's the wheel that bolts on and clamps it in place. The screws just hold it in position. Some brake disc setups don't even have these little set screws.
The disc holding screws are not really necessary and if I was to put them back, I would have applied coppar grease on those two little screws to make it easier to get them off next time.
Hey, this was a 2011 model year 1.4 . If you have a different engine there may be some slight differences as the rotors/pads may be a different size. General procedure will be the same 👍🏼
Hi, if I don't put the handbrake on, do I still need to be wounding back that piston for the calliper to slide in easily? Out of everything you've done there that's the bit that seems the riskier 😅 BTW thanks for the video, might save us some big trouble if I can actually get myself or my husband to do it.
Great video, love it got me out of some trouble when winding the calliper back in. I thought it was the same as front brakes. Do they also have brake shoes aswell of the rear brakes?
You didn't use stud lock.noticed you mentioned copper slip,also would have been a lot easier to remove handrake cable by removing clip and unhooking.brake pipe are easily damaged.
It should adjust itself gradually, keep pulling it up and down that’s should help adjust it, otherwise usually under the trims of the handbrake leaver there’s some adjustments nuts
@@GarageTechAutomotive thank you sir, even tho i pulled my handbrake hard it haves 8 to 10 clicks and my hangbrake is not that strong. So maybe the other way i need to do is to tighten the adjustments nuts. 😊
Nice and easy mate, good. Going to do it on my grand daughters car tomorrow, thanks. I went to do this on my grand sons Hyundai 35 . Nightmare, had to take one end of the torsion arm off to get at the carrier retaining bolt. Badly designed for DIY..
Quote: I went to do this on my grandsons Hyundai 35. In that case, this video is no help to you, is it? This video is for a Honda Jazz, not a Hyundai 35 !!! OTOH, "Badly designed for D-I-Y" Quite so. But aren't ALL modern cars deliberately designed that way, forcing the owner to take it to a main dealer and get ripped off? Modern cars are rubbish: designed for a relatively short & an expensive life.
Mike Smith Sorry about that misunderstanding. What I meant was that I had done the Hyundai few weeks ago. It wasn’t a cakewalk. So I had the Honda Jazz to do 2 weeks ago. Your video was helpful. The Jazz was a cakewalk compared to Hyundai. Thanks.
@@GarageTechAutomotive Thanks for that. I tried changing the pads earlier today but I couldn't get the calliper over the new pads?? The handbrake cable was holding the cable back. How would I go around this??
Dylan Wolff, yes it is rather tight, just make sure you have wound the piston in far enough in the calliper. If you are still struggling there may be a retaining bracket for the handbrake or brake pipe further back that you could loosen to give you that little more movement. Good luck
Had to change the discs and pads on a Honda Jazz. Although this video was helpful, the job is a LOT more difficult than this video suggests. And that is simply due to the totally over-complicated design of the braking system mechanics - as one would expect for a Far Eastern designed piece of technology, especially Honda. What also does not help is Honda's choice of machine screws: they corrode easily: poor choice of metal; stainless steel would have been much better. And why two sizes of hex-head screws? One size - say 13 mm. A/F - would have been much more convenient at manufacture and for maintenance purposes. However, here's a tip that makes this difficult job a lot easier. Removing the pad carrier is a lot easier if the brake line is unscrewed first at the pad carrier assembly. Otherwise that assembly really gets in the way and makes a difficult job a lot more difficult. But before you unscrew it, put a hose clamp on the flexible rubber brake line so that the brake fluid doesn't leak out. I used a Mole grip with the 'bird's beak' type of jaws.
er. what any brake job is a hassle.. carrier bolts will rust and seize. They're rear discs, slightly more hassle than front discs but nothing extremely different at all. Most EU cars are metric, my fiestas (3 different models), my mums car, my grans car etc are all metric too. a good socket set will include metric and imperial without breaking the bank. "hex head screws" so, bolts then the carrier is the metal bracket that is left behind after the caliper assembly is removed (the part you twist in, the caliper). i think you confused carrier with the caliper assembly.
This is terrible, dont let the caliper bracket with the hydraulic cable. Use a thick cable tie or a hook ended ochy-strap to hang the weight of the unit from the suspension. Bad bad bad. Never undo a socket or nut using a torque wrench.
Thanks from France !
Thanks, thorough explaination and good to see grease too
Thanks for explaining hand brake mechanism. Had to strip first calliper to see why piston wasn’t going in all the way. Watched another video, wasn’t very good
Overall not bad. Just a few extra points:
Slider pins need some silicone grease
If you don't have a proper tool instead of pliers use a flat head screwdriver(align it wit the cross pattern and rotate-don't damage the rubber seal)
The screw on the rotors are not phillip's screws- they're JIS Japanese industrial standard- even with a proper screwdriver it's hard to remove them. I drilled mine out.
Use a torque wrench.
Does the brake pad needs grease as well?
@@genesisyt4763 Some copper grease on the "ears" of the pads and some on the back. Just make sure you don't contaminate the friction material.
Two important points missed & one wrong comment.
1. When the wheel is removed, if it was a struggle to get it off - as in this video - clean the stub end of the axle to get the rust and corrosion off. The wheel must sit square on that stub. If it doesn't , the wheel will wobble when in motion which could cause the wheel securing nuts to become loose, causing the wheel to come off!
2. There was no mention of taking precautions when the pistons are pushed back. When that happens, brake fluid is forced back to the brake fluid reservoir. You need to release the top cap of that reservoir and ideally get someone else to watch the fluid level in that reservoir so that they can tell you to 'Stop!' if that fluid will overflow. Then remove some of that fluid - to make - room - and carry on.
3. The disc securing screw must be tightly screwed in - unlike what is stated here. As this video shows, getting them unscrewed required a lot of torque - and there's a good reason for that! I always use thread locking compound, just to be sure.
Wrong. You can leave disc screws off and everything is still working and safe.
I tend to agree with Jani. The screws are not the primary force holding the discs on, it's the wheel that bolts on and clamps it in place. The screws just hold it in position. Some brake disc setups don't even have these little set screws.
LOT OF RUBBISH 1
The disc holding screws are not really necessary and if I was to put them back, I would have applied coppar grease on those two little screws to make it easier to get them off next time.
Very clear demonstration. Thanks for the upload!
That was a really great tutorial - I learned loads. Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video.
No problem 😌 thank you 🙏🏽
Get an axle stand under there - don’t rely on a hydraulic jack.
good video, going to help me a lot and save a lot of cash
dealer wants £500 to do this on my dads car - very helpful, thanks
£500 ? That is totally outrageous!
Thats a rip off. Parts and labour 2 discs and pads on rear £150 to 200 at non honda garage.
Superb a great help thsnks
Great you didn’t show spinning the piston back into the calliper this can be a very difficult task😮not many guys show it wonder why
Really useful thanks. I just need to get some WD40 on to the bolts to hopefully make the job easier when I get round to doing it.
Great video, many thanks. I will now do my own brake's
Does anythink with changing the brake pads and disk change, depending on the year? Because I have a 2011 model.
Hey, this was a 2011 model year 1.4 . If you have a different engine there may be some slight differences as the rotors/pads may be a different size. General procedure will be the same 👍🏼
@@GarageTechAutomotive Thank you very much sir, I appreciate your reply.
Very very useful vidio. Thank you so much
Very helpful thank you
Thanks for the video.
It was helpful.
Hi, if I don't put the handbrake on, do I still need to be wounding back that piston for the calliper to slide in easily? Out of everything you've done there that's the bit that seems the riskier 😅
BTW thanks for the video, might save us some big trouble if I can actually get myself or my husband to do it.
Hi, yes you will still need to wined the piston in so the new pads will fit. Good luck with the job, let me know how you get on 👍🏼
Great video, love it got me out of some trouble when winding the calliper back in. I thought it was the same as front brakes. Do they also have brake shoes aswell of the rear brakes?
Hey thanks for the comment, no not on this setup, the handbrake mechanism is built into the calliper, glad this helped 👍🏼
You didn't use stud lock.noticed you mentioned copper slip,also would have been a lot easier to remove handrake cable by removing clip and unhooking.brake pipe are easily damaged.
what happen to the spring?...I didnt see it in the video otherwise its a very good video.Thanks!
Safety is number one priority, especially for diyers.
Thank you so much, very useful
when i replaced my rear disc brake, the handbrake feels weak? how do i adjust the handbrake ?
It should adjust itself gradually, keep pulling it up and down that’s should help adjust it, otherwise usually under the trims of the handbrake leaver there’s some adjustments nuts
@@GarageTechAutomotive thank you sir, even tho i pulled my handbrake hard it haves 8 to 10 clicks and my hangbrake is not that strong. So maybe the other way i need to do is to tighten the adjustments nuts. 😊
@@amarbautista6783 try pulling it up and down 30-40 times that might help but yes the best way is to just adjust it at the nuts
I thought you had to line the nipple on the back of the pad up with the piston on the calliper
Nice and easy mate, good. Going to do it on my grand daughters car tomorrow, thanks. I went to do this on my grand sons Hyundai 35 . Nightmare, had to take one end of the torsion arm off to get at the carrier retaining bolt. Badly designed for DIY..
Quote: I went to do this on my grandsons Hyundai 35.
In that case, this video is no help to you, is it? This video is for a Honda Jazz, not a Hyundai 35 !!!
OTOH, "Badly designed for D-I-Y" Quite so. But aren't ALL modern cars deliberately designed that way, forcing the owner to take it to a main dealer and get ripped off? Modern cars are rubbish: designed for a relatively short & an expensive life.
Mike Smith Sorry about that misunderstanding. What I meant was that I had done the Hyundai few weeks ago. It wasn’t a cakewalk. So I had the Honda Jazz to do 2 weeks ago. Your video was helpful. The Jazz was a cakewalk compared to Hyundai. Thanks.
Great video mate. Does the handbrake have to be on or off when doing this ??
Dylan Wolff, handbrake off 👍🏽
@@GarageTechAutomotive Thanks for that. I tried changing the pads earlier today but I couldn't get the calliper over the new pads?? The handbrake cable was holding the cable back. How would I go around this??
Dylan Wolff, yes it is rather tight, just make sure you have wound the piston in far enough in the calliper. If you are still struggling there may be a retaining bracket for the handbrake or brake pipe further back that you could loosen to give you that little more movement. Good luck
@@dylanwolff9018 Just did rear brakes on Jazz yesterday. I find it easier hooking off the handbrake clip from caliper.
Had to change the discs and pads on a Honda Jazz. Although this video was helpful, the job is a LOT more difficult than this video suggests. And that is simply due to the totally over-complicated design of the braking system mechanics - as one would expect for a Far Eastern designed piece of technology, especially Honda.
What also does not help is Honda's choice of machine screws: they corrode easily: poor choice of metal; stainless steel would have been much better. And why two sizes of hex-head screws? One size - say 13 mm. A/F - would have been much more convenient at manufacture and for maintenance purposes.
However, here's a tip that makes this difficult job a lot easier. Removing the pad carrier is a lot easier if the brake line is unscrewed first at the pad carrier assembly. Otherwise that assembly really gets in the way and makes a difficult job a lot more difficult. But before you unscrew it, put a hose clamp on the flexible rubber brake line so that the brake fluid doesn't leak out. I used a Mole grip with the 'bird's beak' type of jaws.
er. what
any brake job is a hassle.. carrier bolts will rust and seize.
They're rear discs, slightly more hassle than front discs but nothing extremely different at all.
Most EU cars are metric, my fiestas (3 different models), my mums car, my grans car etc are all metric too.
a good socket set will include metric and imperial without breaking the bank.
"hex head screws" so, bolts then
the carrier is the metal bracket that is left behind after the caliper assembly is removed (the part you twist in, the caliper). i think you confused carrier with the caliper assembly.
You obviously don't know what you're talking about !
Release hand brake
Grips! Find a big chisel instead as a screw driver
This is terrible, dont let the caliper bracket with the hydraulic cable. Use a thick cable tie or a hook ended ochy-strap to hang the weight of the unit from the suspension. Bad bad bad.
Never undo a socket or nut using a torque wrench.