This is BY FAR the best 8.8 rebuild and assembly video series I’ve seen. Thank you very much Eric for taking the time to show the process in all of its detail. So helpful to me, I’m currently in the process of rebuilding the 8.8 for my Capri.
Much better video than the 2 part videos. Somehow I get confused in them what you where doing but this one cleared everything and is finally very good and understandable.
I personally like checking the backlash on the drive side of the gear so that the dial indicator doesn't ride down the coast side tooth causing you to reset the zero every time. Nice video.
Rears can be a real pain in the rear for sure. Thanks for the tips and pointers. I’m sure you saved me countless hours especially with the koyo timken bearing differences. You got a thumbs up from me for life. 👍🏻 Some videos will drive you crazy.
Can't wait to build the 8.8 for my jeep. I've spent a lot of time watching and making mental notes. Appreciate the starting pinion shim tip. I'm starting without the old pinion shim so I needed a place to start.
I love these "cliff note" versions of videos as they make people feel incompetent when it takes them nearly a week to successfully do something they saw took like 30 minutes. :) "Just the facts" vids are helpful and time saving though.
I watched both videos I can't tell you how many times I've been beat up taking it apart and put it back together just trying to get a good pattern.. So I was feeling your pain!! See you at the meet up Saturday.
Having seen both the short and the long versions, I like the longer videos more. After watching them this one just seems a bit rushed in comparison. I do think that the long version is just as important to watch as this one specifically because of how difficult it was to get everything set up properly. We've all been in that situation where nothing seems to go right on what we're working on matter what we do, getting frustrated, and wanting to just quit. It's actually a bit refreshing and encouraging to know that it still happens to the best of us
Hi Eric, First of all, I want to really thank you for all the awesome videos you make. I truly like they way you explain technical solutions or issues you run into. Futhermore I appreciate the accurate and precise work, although it is sometimes time consuming and therefore frustrating! Many mechanics here in Germany would learn alot from you in that regard:) One possible reason for the tighter backlash during final assembly could be the difference in bearing width between your setup and assembly bearing. Altough you finally purchased the same type of bearings, they still show different widths due to allowed manufacturing tolerances. Concerning the tighter blacklash in combination with the slight offset in the tooth pattern, it seems likley that your final bearing is quite on the upper edge of these tolerances while your setup bearing is on the lower edge. For the next build up I recommend you to set up the backlash exact in the middle of the given tolerances (which is 10 in that case). Most likely, you will not run out of spec in backlash -if done everything else right-, because the manufacturing tolerances are the exact reason why a range from 8-12 is permitted. Hope to see the Fairmont Project on the road soon! Best wishes, Timm
Eric, a few months ago I rebuilt the front differential on my 1974 Jeep CJ5. Painted it black just like you did, but I wish I had a seal driving set! That would've made race installation so much easier
I liked your caution by using wood for the press and vice, it moulds nicely to the surface and distributes the force, ive used sacrificial wood/aluminium for brutal jobs too :-). And the half nude dancing ladys near the end was a nice addition to this version, the blonde one looked wow!!, shame that some people didnt watch it.
This is an old video, but if you are reading this the early pinion bearing bearing uses a different angle then the one currently used in kits and production, so don't plan on using the old bearing as a setup bearing buy a spare ( I believe is what is implied as he talks about it) . If you are changing an assembled diff, you can record your checking height as well and calculate out your starting depth it usually works fine if you dont or cant get a second bearing ( global supply chain shortages) .
I personally like the other vid better because of the the strugles that is something that actually hapens but I like all your vids i have seen them all and they have saved me tons of money and have learned alot from them. Thanks Ericthecarguy
I found you have to torque the carrier to perform a test pattern. Otherwise when you do finally torque the carrier, the extra tightness will force the ring gear into the pinion tighter, and you wind up with less backlash, than when you pre- final assembly tested it.
Use impact and once u get play out of bearing put impact on low settings and ugga dugga check ugga dugga check... Be really light on the trigger... Works everytime for me
You know I watch your videos as soon as I get the notification that they were posted in the morning and yet it always has 2+ dislikes before I make it to the video...... Who hates Eric so much as to dedicate there time to dislike every video he posts before watching it at 5 A.M. in the morning....
Can I take up excessive backlash by just adding shims to the left carrier bearing WITHOUT taking apart the pinion? Taking it down to install axle saver wheel bearings/seals. Doing this while diff. is in vehicle at 252k miles. It presently is quiet but has lot's of backlash. Will this make it howl?
Really nice one, Eric. You gave me the last bit of confidence that made me realize I did something right on my Mercedes rear differential. However, the carrier bearings (ring gear carrier) has also tapered bearings that needs to have certain amount of preload. Did you encounter any issues on that? I know you used the same sum of shim thicknesses that seems to take care of the problem but what if you didn't have the specs?
It's a pain setting them up......that's why I use Richmond gears only which are marked for pinion depth from ring center....use a matco pinion depth gauge....then it's just backlash....usually done in two or three tries
"Old Koyo race" knocked out at 10:37? but the set up bearing you made during disassembly should have been Koyo too if it was original, right? Was the race you knocked out actually a replacement Timken race and thus the difference? I know this is 4 years old, but super relevant to me right now.
Are these specs the same for independent rear suspension aluminum housing 8.8s and solid axle rears alike? Im assuming mesh specs will be the same but torque specs may vary to aluminum cases
It seems to me that the only way to really learn is to experience what causes the problems. I’m wondering if pinion preload changes from when you’re setting it up initially and then your final setup by 5 or so in/lbs will that throw everything off ? When you change pinion shims the difference is so small can preload pull or push the pinion at all ?
You're right, about you have to actually do something, to really know what's going to happen. I found when I snugged the carrier, but did not torque it all the way, once I did torque it, I had minus- zero backlash. everything has to be to specs, (pinion depth, with preload on the pinion, and the carrier shimmed correctly, and torqued down to specs, to do these pre-tests. I also found that I don't have to crush a new sleeve, each time I do a retest for pinion depth. I Can run it back down to the same number of inch pounds, (you just can't back off, and have ( less) inch pounds, you can go to the same number of inch pounds- or greater, without replacing the sleeve) it's similar to adjusting wheel bearings. but when I went from adding shims, to removing shinms, on the pinion, then I found I had to re- crush the sleeve to optain the specified preload. So to address your point, I have discovered things doing this, that I didn't I didn't see addressed on any of these videos.
working on mopar 8 3/4 from 1969 sure grip works great but I'm switching my breaks to disks and new end seals + bearings shoud i rebuild all if it or just the ends missing some tool and not a big budget to do all of it rite my self ?
If nothing wrong with the diff, just pull the axles out (no "C" clips on that axle), cut off the original taper bearings and press the "Green" (non-adjustable") bearings onto the axles. Use the "Green" bearings that have the circular clip and separate retainer plate, not the ones where the retainer plate is part of the bearing.
thanks just old 15+ year old parts i didn't see it leaking and no noise or tell is wrong with it the brakes went bad and can't get good USA parts easy + disk stop better
o i have ben at work / had projects that snow balled out of control of what i was looking to do so trying for no surprises i like i to work out smoothly
This is BY FAR the best 8.8 rebuild and assembly video series I’ve seen. Thank you very much Eric for taking the time to show the process in all of its detail. So helpful to me, I’m currently in the process of rebuilding the 8.8 for my Capri.
This was the most informative instruction video, I followed it word per word and it came out great.
Much better video than the 2 part videos. Somehow I get confused in them what you where doing but this one cleared everything and is finally very good and understandable.
I made this version just for you then. :)
In the Haynes manual the description would probably be, assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
I personally like checking the backlash on the drive side of the gear so that the dial indicator doesn't ride down the coast side tooth causing you to reset the zero every time. Nice video.
Rears can be a real pain in the rear for sure. Thanks for the tips and pointers. I’m sure you saved me countless hours especially with the koyo timken bearing differences. You got a thumbs up from me for life. 👍🏻 Some videos will drive you crazy.
Can't wait to build the 8.8 for my jeep. I've spent a lot of time watching and making mental notes. Appreciate the starting pinion shim tip. I'm starting without the old pinion shim so I needed a place to start.
Just the right pace. Easy to follow, but not so slow I needed to advance it. Just did my first one, an 8.5" GM.
I love these "cliff note" versions of videos as they make people feel incompetent when it takes them nearly a week to successfully do something they saw took like 30 minutes. :) "Just the facts" vids are helpful and time saving though.
I watched both videos I can't tell you how many times I've been beat up taking it apart and put it back together just trying to get a good pattern.. So I was feeling your pain!! See you at the meet up Saturday.
Having seen both the short and the long versions, I like the longer videos more. After watching them this one just seems a bit rushed in comparison. I do think that the long version is just as important to watch as this one specifically because of how difficult it was to get everything set up properly. We've all been in that situation where nothing seems to go right on what we're working on matter what we do, getting frustrated, and wanting to just quit. It's actually a bit refreshing and encouraging to know that it still happens to the best of us
Hi Eric,
First of all, I want to really thank you for all the awesome videos you make. I truly like they way you explain technical solutions or issues you run into. Futhermore I appreciate the accurate and precise work, although it is sometimes time consuming and therefore frustrating! Many mechanics here in Germany would learn alot from you in that regard:)
One possible reason for the tighter backlash during final assembly could be the difference in bearing width between your setup and assembly bearing. Altough you finally purchased the same type of bearings, they still show different widths due to allowed manufacturing tolerances. Concerning the tighter blacklash in combination with the slight offset in the tooth pattern, it seems likley that your final bearing is quite on the upper edge of these tolerances while your setup bearing is on the lower edge. For the next build up I recommend you to set up the backlash exact in the middle of the given tolerances (which is 10 in that case). Most likely, you will not run out of spec in backlash -if done everything else right-, because the manufacturing tolerances are the exact reason why a range from 8-12 is permitted.
Hope to see the Fairmont Project on the road soon!
Best wishes,
Timm
Eric, a few months ago I rebuilt the front differential on my 1974 Jeep CJ5. Painted it black just like you did, but I wish I had a seal driving set! That would've made race installation so much easier
I liked your caution by using wood for the press and vice, it moulds nicely to the surface and distributes the force, ive used sacrificial wood/aluminium for brutal jobs too :-).
And the half nude dancing ladys near the end was a nice addition to this version, the blonde one looked wow!!, shame that some people didnt watch it.
Eric my day is better when I receive a notification from your channel! Your videos are pretty pretty awesome! Thanks
My day is better when I read comments like yours. Thanks!
+EricTheCarGuy 😊
my day is better when i suck some cock
Those shims are what makes the 9-inch ford so much better to rebuild.
Thank you Eric! Great video for us non professional do it yourself types!
This is an old video, but if you are reading this the early pinion bearing bearing uses a different angle then the one currently used in kits and production, so don't plan on using the old bearing as a setup bearing buy a spare ( I believe is what is implied as he talks about it) . If you are changing an assembled diff, you can record your checking height as well and calculate out your starting depth it usually works fine if you dont or cant get a second bearing ( global supply chain shortages) .
NICE JOB ON EXPLAINING DIFF REBUILD LOVE YOURE SHOW
I personally like the other vid better because of the the strugles that is something that actually hapens but I like all your vids i have seen them all and they have saved me tons of money and have learned alot from them. Thanks Ericthecarguy
Eric this is very interesting and educational bro never knew was going to be that difficult butt you did a great job and then
Damn. Diffs are technical
I found you have to torque the carrier to perform a test pattern. Otherwise when you do finally torque the carrier, the extra tightness will force the ring gear into the pinion tighter, and you wind up with less backlash, than when you pre- final assembly tested it.
Use impact and once u get play out of bearing put impact on low settings and ugga dugga check ugga dugga check... Be really light on the trigger... Works everytime for me
This is so absurdly useful its not even funny
When is the engine rebuild video gonna be posted
Great Eric, thks, first time seen this diff rebuild.
This was really helpful, thanks for making this video.
13:18, you ever just had that extended breaker bar slip off the nut and crack your rips? I'd be madder than a hornets nest if that happened to me.
Thanks for both vids.
Do i re use the newly crushed sleeve ?
Or do i re crush a whole new one ?
This is like watching a wreck on the highway
Why couldn't you use the older bearing hollowed out for set up? Was it because it wasn't a Timken and the tolerances would be off?
You know I watch your videos as soon as I get the notification that they were posted in the morning and yet it always has 2+ dislikes before I make it to the video......
Who hates Eric so much as to dedicate there time to dislike every video he posts before watching it at 5 A.M. in the morning....
maybe is just someone thats angry because the fairmont is taking too long for them.
+nahuel luna Idk, I see this on all of his videos, Fairmont related or not.
Haters gonna hate.
I just find it funny how dedicated they are to it.
EricTheCarGuy you are right!
Can I take up excessive backlash by just adding shims to the left carrier bearing WITHOUT taking apart the pinion? Taking it down to install axle saver wheel bearings/seals. Doing this while diff. is in vehicle at 252k miles. It presently is quiet but has lot's of backlash. Will this make it howl?
Really nice one, Eric. You gave me the last bit of confidence that made me realize I did something right on my Mercedes rear differential. However, the carrier bearings (ring gear carrier) has also tapered bearings that needs to have certain amount of preload. Did you encounter any issues on that? I know you used the same sum of shim thicknesses that seems to take care of the problem but what if you didn't have the specs?
"sphincter factor 12" lmao i had to pause the video i was laughing so hard xD
It's a pain setting them up......that's why I use Richmond gears only which are marked for pinion depth from ring center....use a matco pinion depth gauge....then it's just backlash....usually done in two or three tries
"Old Koyo race" knocked out at 10:37? but the set up bearing you made during disassembly should have been Koyo too if it was original, right? Was the race you knocked out actually a replacement Timken race and thus the difference? I know this is 4 years old, but super relevant to me right now.
Are these specs the same for independent rear suspension aluminum housing 8.8s and solid axle rears alike? Im assuming mesh specs will be the same but torque specs may vary to aluminum cases
Great video Eric 👍🏻
Would setting up a front 8.8 in the front of a ford 4x4 the same as a rear 8.8 ?
i feel hapy when you post anew video
ali from iraq again
Allahu albar. ?
+Mody Alga allah is a bedofile because maried 9 yer child.
you mean Allah Akper
becuse i am muslim?
Allah for all my frend
not just for muslims
Thank you!
How long should a pinion seal last?
Eric can you post a clip of the paint prep where you do the tape trick? I want to share it with people!
there is already a full video of how he taped it off and painted it.
Awesome, good stuff Eric. Thanks
It seems to me that the only way to really learn is to experience what causes the problems. I’m wondering if pinion preload changes from when you’re setting it up initially and then your final setup by 5 or so in/lbs will that throw everything off ? When you change pinion shims the difference is so small can preload pull or push the pinion at all ?
You're right, about you have to actually do something, to really know what's going to happen. I found when I snugged the carrier, but did not torque it all the way, once I did torque it, I had minus- zero backlash. everything has to be to specs, (pinion depth, with preload on the pinion, and the carrier shimmed correctly, and torqued down to specs, to do these pre-tests. I also found that I don't have to crush a new sleeve, each time I do a retest for pinion depth. I Can run it back down to the same number of inch pounds, (you just can't back off, and have ( less) inch pounds, you can go to the same number of inch pounds- or greater, without replacing the sleeve) it's similar to adjusting wheel bearings. but when I went from adding shims, to removing shinms, on the pinion, then I found I had to re- crush the sleeve to optain the specified preload. So to address your point, I have discovered things doing this, that I didn't I didn't see addressed on any of these videos.
first thing you think of at 6am is to upload a vid? what time you wake up brew
5:30am
But Eric we love the filler of the original video. Im joking, great video.
KISS AUTO GLASS. Hey Joe you didn't show the install of your fancy cover, what's the story on that?
i know right, that cover looks awesome
Will there be a video of you behind the scene while you were raging over the rear diff shims ? #JustAsking
13:20 if u ever do this make sure the other bar is not against a rib! use your hip or thigh like in video
At 9:05 how did you hollow it out the pinion bearing ??
What did you use to make the set up bearing? A dremel?
can i get by without the differential shim install Driver ?
Hi Eric.
working on mopar 8 3/4 from 1969 sure grip works great but I'm switching my breaks to disks and new end seals + bearings shoud i rebuild all if it or just the ends missing some tool and not a big budget to do all of it rite my self ?
If nothing wrong with the diff, just pull the axles out (no "C" clips on that axle), cut off the original taper bearings and press the "Green" (non-adjustable") bearings onto the axles. Use the "Green" bearings that have the circular clip and separate retainer plate, not the ones where the retainer plate is part of the bearing.
thanks just old 15+ year old parts i didn't see it leaking and no noise or tell is wrong with it the brakes went bad and can't get good USA parts easy + disk stop better
o i have ben at work / had projects that snow balled out of control of what i was looking to do so trying for no surprises i like i to work out smoothly
If that is the "Right Stuff Detailing" disc brake kit, you will need the extend the emergency brake lines about 2".
thanks 4 helping I'm using wilwood 4 piston mim rim 16" in. is it the same ? double checking
THANK YOU!!!!!
super great
amazing.
Is the diff a 28 spline or 31 spline?
th-cam.com/video/LKS0ZLQJpUA/w-d-xo.html
Where is your shop actually located? Out of all the companies you promote, i have not seen you promote your very own.
At the end of every video I say, "visit EricTheCarGuy.com"=Self promotion. :)
LOLOL, I love at 21:10 where it said "Like, 3 hours later". I am just starting to set backlash and it is a PITA for sure! These shims suck.
why was the old Koyo pinion bearing chewing up the Koyo bearing race? fitment should have been proper, not like ur mixing a Timken and Koyo together.
Shud really have the diff loaded before checking the pattern of the gear mesh
1000th like.
i still wait engine overhaul videos -.- ,,, i feel like watch middle season of soccer and late watch begin season.....
36:30 ( short video ) :D
👍😁😎
not first
Sixth
Never knew he lived in ohio