There’s lots of videos on TH-cam about re-gears and the 8.8 in general. However. I found your videos have such a wealth of knowledge in the tips and tricks category. Everyone’s are almost always just the actual procedure. But hardly anyone covers when things don’t go right and what to do. Or how to make things go in, or come out easier. You can honestly tell you have lots of learned experience actually doing it. Thanks for dropping and sharing knowledge.
Thanks! It's either too much or not enough with most people lol. Some want nothing but the procedure and others love the details. It's all good though, glad you like them.
Thank you for the well documented and edited video! I just did my first ever gear swap on a Dana 30. Now I'm going to rebuild my 8.8 with new bearings. I will be returning to the key points in this video. 😊
Just want to thank you. This is the only video I've found on the ARB in the 8.8. All I really needed to see was how to remove the pressure housing because I have a leak.
I have setup several sets of gears before I saw your videos but watching your process really helped me to perfect the art. The clamshell puller didn't hurt either :)
Thanks for the video, I just put a Ford 8.8 under my Jeep yj . Currently running 4.11 but need to regear to 4.88. I have never done gears before , but I’m willing to attempt it . I am thinking of pulling the rearend out from under the Jeep and benching it to make things easier . I agree that the Ford 8.8 is a PIG !! Couldn’t believe the weight difference between the Ford 8.8 and the Dana 35 that was replaced with it . Your video is definitely a great inspiration and I’m sure it will be a great help to me ! I also liked your skid plate nutsert replacement video, and I did all of mine last spring using the black magic brakes kit .
I'm on the verge of running patterns on an 8.8 re-gear and had a couple questions: 1. Have you ever used the method of patterning with shims that provide a "tight slip fit" and then adding 0.005-0.006" shims to each side on final install? This was recommended in the OX locker install manual. 2. If my pinion depth is off, I would need to remove the bearing and re-shim, but that could damage the bearing. I have the puller tool and the old race so I was going to use that. What if you didn't have the tool? Would you need to use a new bearing and race each time? Seems painful. Thanks for your awesome videos.
You can do that to get close but I have had a pattern change when adding shims at the end. Just double check. As far as working the pinion depth, make a setup race for the inner pinion bearing. Take in and out until final setup.
Hi, I have a very strange clunking somewhere in my driveline that only happens after it has been driven for a while to warm up and it only happens at very very slow speed, even less then walking speed but it is a savage clunk that goes right through the truck. It is a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac 4x4. I have checked the uni's and they are all good. Thanks.
Wow. I've been watching all 8.8 regear vids and I can say yours is probably one of the best! I'm getting a detroit locker for my 8.8 with 4.56 gears. Do you know if the carrier of the detroit will clear the crosspin? Or I have to shave the tooth gear like you did? Cuz I heard some lockers have that in mind when designing the housing. Cheers man!
question the splined gear next to the ring gear.. is that an abs tone ring? I have an 82 mustang gt that i figured out has 3.73 gears trac lok posi.. but unsure of that gear attached to the ring. (left hand side of ring gear) or what donor it came from..
No. Use a setup race. Make sure it's new and the same manufacturer as the final one. If I'm shimming between the pinion head and bearing, then yes, I'll use my clamshell puller. You can also use a setup bearing in that spot.
@@TheBFHGarage yeah. I use under lift hoists, one on each end. I install the axles for proper load and drag, then I run my pattern. If it needs adjustment, I pull the axles out only enough to disengage the carrier, and allow it to be removed. The hoists at each wheel end are used to support the axles while they are disengaged from the carrier. The way I was taught was that you can't get an accurate reading with the axles out as they apply their own drag, angle, and pitch to the carrier. 🤷♂️
@@LynxStarAuto Somebody fed you a line of BS when they "taught" you. There is no angle or pitch, the carrier only goes in one way and gets bolted down. Accuracy statement is bunk too. This isn't rocket science! 😂
@@TheBFHGarage My father passed on down the industry to me sir. He was a professional automotive mechanic for 40+ years. I followed in his foot steps, and run my own automotive repair business. (Check some of my own videos). Been in the industry myself 20+ years. Show a little more class and respect. The way my dad taught me, is the way the big rig industry taught him. The idea is to measure with the axle assembled as close to road simulation as possible. The drive axles do indeed put a load on the carrier. Try it one day, you will notice your measurements change. 😉
I don't mean any disrespect but I've seen a lot of crazy stuff. I'm sure your big rig stuff could be different but what I put out pertains to common light vehicle axles that's all.
Sometimes it is far better to just pull it and put it on a bench. I can remove an axle in about 30 minutes. Not having to get up and get back down multiple times is worth it in my opinion.
I have an 8.8" front diff that I am working on and I am very thankful for your videos! I have a question about the install. The diff is slightly different than you show and the ARB supplied C-clips do not fit. Originally the axles have Circlips, however, when test fitted it appears that the original slot for those is out of reach because the cross pin wont let the axle slide any further in. Do I need to modify the end of the axles to allow for C clips to fit because even if the circclip fit it would be almost impossible to get in and out of that small window? Any suggestions? Asking for educational purposes only. Thank you.
When you reshim the pinion after the original measurement, are you removing the bearing to put the shims along side the original one or are you placing them elsewhere on the pinion? I assume you’re putting them with the other shims but I figure I clarify vs guessing. This will be my first time doing gears, I’m a full time mechanic and I’m trying to familiarize myself before I dig in
When shimming the pinion, you have two options. You can place shims between the bearing and pinion head or you can place shims behind the race in the housing. Either way will require a setup bearing or a setup race that you can slide in and out to change shims. When adjusting shims, you are adding or subtracting to the same shim stack location.
It's important on both sides. But I like to favor the side that sees the majority of the load. For example, on a front high pinion dana 30 I would favor the drive side. On a low pinion rear axle, I would favor the drive side.
Is it possible to clock the ring gear so the cross shaft will clear between the teeth ? I was thinking that the teeth are probably not an even number so some orientation may be better than others ? Thanks
Usually it's two teeth on one side and one on the other that gets one the way. You can certainly try it, but you'll need to have the ring gear heated up to rotate it.
question, I have a 31 spline 8.8 cut down to size to fit my track car, its a custom 8.8 rear end, however it was the open variant. I bought a 31 spline LSD for the thing but I dont have a ARB nor do I need it, can i just follow the same steps but instead of using that arb bearing + seal housing, just use a normal bearing?
@@TheBFHGarage by chance do you have a parts list online or any links that could guide me to buy the appropriate bearings, races, and shims like you had in the video? I'm very new to ford parts so I dont really know where to look for them, sorry for the bother.
@@iReinTV I always just buy a master install kit for a particular axle. Comes with everything you need. Call Revolution Gear and Axle and tell them what you're looking for and they will make sure you get the right stuff.
@@prospexican gear marking compound. Any decent set a gears will include a tube with the gear set. If it didn't, you can get a tube online. Permatex also sells one that's called Prussian Blue. That's available at most auto parts stores.
Probably the most underrated off-road DIY channel on TH-cam. Your videos are absolutely fantastic. As thorough as it gets. Thank you brother!
Thanks for the comment! SHARE!
There’s lots of videos on TH-cam about re-gears and the 8.8 in general. However. I found your videos have such a wealth of knowledge in the tips and tricks category. Everyone’s are almost always just the actual procedure. But hardly anyone covers when things don’t go right and what to do. Or how to make things go in, or come out easier. You can honestly tell you have lots of learned experience actually doing it. Thanks for dropping and sharing knowledge.
Thanks! It's either too much or not enough with most people lol. Some want nothing but the procedure and others love the details. It's all good though, glad you like them.
Thank you for the well documented and edited video! I just did my first ever gear swap on a Dana 30. Now I'm going to rebuild my 8.8 with new bearings. I will be returning to the key points in this video. 😊
Just want to thank you. This is the only video I've found on the ARB in the 8.8. All I really needed to see was how to remove the pressure housing because I have a leak.
I have setup several sets of gears before I saw your videos but watching your process really helped me to perfect the art. The clamshell puller didn't hurt either :)
Clamshell makes teardown so much quicker. Absolutely beats using a Dremel
By far the best video I've seen on this topic. I'll give it a go on my 8.8
Setting up an 8.8 with an arb & 4.88s this week, such a great how to, thank you so much.
Good luck with it!
You’re a Fuckin bad ass sir. Great to see a visual of someone who actually knows what their talking about before doing it on my own. Appreciate it.
Thanks for the video, I just put a Ford 8.8 under my Jeep yj . Currently running 4.11 but need to regear to 4.88. I have never done gears before , but I’m willing to attempt it . I am thinking of pulling the rearend out from under the Jeep and benching it to make things easier . I agree that the Ford 8.8 is a PIG !! Couldn’t believe the weight difference between the Ford 8.8 and the Dana 35 that was replaced with it . Your video is definitely a great inspiration and I’m sure it will be a great help to me ! I also liked your skid plate nutsert replacement video, and I did all of mine last spring using the black magic brakes kit .
Glad the videos are helping! Putting it on a bench makes things way easier but at the same time it takes the extra time for removal etc.
best video I've seen to educate guys on gear changes! love it! great job!
Amazing video man. Love the way you narrate.
Oh my god! This whole time I've been using a puller to remove the flange, that is a great little trick, what you did LOL!
Thanks very much Sir, this thorough explanation really helped me allot....
Thank you. Just about to tackle this job and you've provided some great aadvice!
I'm on the verge of running patterns on an 8.8 re-gear and had a couple questions:
1. Have you ever used the method of patterning with shims that provide a "tight slip fit" and then adding 0.005-0.006" shims to each side on final install? This was recommended in the OX locker install manual.
2. If my pinion depth is off, I would need to remove the bearing and re-shim, but that could damage the bearing. I have the puller tool and the old race so I was going to use that. What if you didn't have the tool? Would you need to use a new bearing and race each time? Seems painful.
Thanks for your awesome videos.
You can do that to get close but I have had a pattern change when adding shims at the end. Just double check.
As far as working the pinion depth, make a setup race for the inner pinion bearing. Take in and out until final setup.
Hi, I have a very strange clunking somewhere in my driveline that only happens after it has been driven for a while to warm up and it only happens at very very slow speed, even less then walking speed but it is a savage clunk that goes right through the truck. It is a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac 4x4. I have checked the uni's and they are all good. Thanks.
That could be a lot of things! 🤷
@@TheBFHGarage I wish I new some of them.
Great video, really informative! How long do you put the ring gear in the oven and at what temperature?
180ish for about 15-20 minutes
This video demonstrates what an excellent mechanic you are. Well done [beerclink].
Wow. I've been watching all 8.8 regear vids and I can say yours is probably one of the best! I'm getting a detroit locker for my 8.8 with 4.56 gears. Do you know if the carrier of the detroit will clear the crosspin? Or I have to shave the tooth gear like you did? Cuz I heard some lockers have that in mind when designing the housing. Cheers man!
I don't know. Depends on gears. It's easy to do once you're in there so I wouldn't sweat it.
Awesome video. Thank you sir
Nice video man!
Hi bro, what about of oil? Which one can you recommend us?
Speaking solely for the use with an ARB, use conventional. As for others, dealers choice. If it needs friction modifier, add it.
question the splined gear next to the ring gear.. is that an abs tone ring? I have an 82 mustang gt that i figured out has 3.73 gears trac lok posi.. but unsure of that gear attached to the ring. (left hand side of ring gear) or what donor it came from..
Did you have to remove bearing from the pinion every time you adjusted the shim thickness?
No. Use a setup race. Make sure it's new and the same manufacturer as the final one. If I'm shimming between the pinion head and bearing, then yes, I'll use my clamshell puller. You can also use a setup bearing in that spot.
Interesting how you apply your drag. I usually install the axles, and apply the parking brake slightly.
I couldn't imagine doing that every time I wanted to run a pattern. That would add a lot of time to a job.
@@TheBFHGarage yeah. I use under lift hoists, one on each end. I install the axles for proper load and drag, then I run my pattern. If it needs adjustment, I pull the axles out only enough to disengage the carrier, and allow it to be removed. The hoists at each wheel end are used to support the axles while they are disengaged from the carrier.
The way I was taught was that you can't get an accurate reading with the axles out as they apply their own drag, angle, and pitch to the carrier. 🤷♂️
@@LynxStarAuto Somebody fed you a line of BS when they "taught" you. There is no angle or pitch, the carrier only goes in one way and gets bolted down. Accuracy statement is bunk too. This isn't rocket science! 😂
@@TheBFHGarage My father passed on down the industry to me sir. He was a professional automotive mechanic for 40+ years. I followed in his foot steps, and run my own automotive repair business. (Check some of my own videos). Been in the industry myself 20+ years. Show a little more class and respect.
The way my dad taught me, is the way the big rig industry taught him. The idea is to measure with the axle assembled as close to road simulation as possible. The drive axles do indeed put a load on the carrier. Try it one day, you will notice your measurements change. 😉
I don't mean any disrespect but I've seen a lot of crazy stuff. I'm sure your big rig stuff could be different but what I put out pertains to common light vehicle axles that's all.
I’m gonna do this to my bronco. I’m doing it in my drive way. Would it be worth pulling the rear diff completely out of the truck?
Sometimes it is far better to just pull it and put it on a bench. I can remove an axle in about 30 minutes. Not having to get up and get back down multiple times is worth it in my opinion.
Great video. Thanks Mike. Looks like you can skip your arm workout this week.
I have an 8.8" front diff that I am working on and I am very thankful for your videos! I have a question about the install. The diff is slightly different than you show and the ARB supplied C-clips do not fit. Originally the axles have Circlips, however, when test fitted it appears that the original slot for those is out of reach because the cross pin wont let the axle slide any further in. Do I need to modify the end of the axles to allow for C clips to fit because even if the circclip fit it would be almost impossible to get in and out of that small window? Any suggestions? Asking for educational purposes only. Thank you.
You have to pull the crosspin to get the C clips installed!
I was able to get the original ford Circ Clips to fit after a lot of finagling. Cheers from Colorado Springs. Thanks.
When you reshim the pinion after the original measurement, are you removing the bearing to put the shims along side the original one or are you placing them elsewhere on the pinion? I assume you’re putting them with the other shims but I figure I clarify vs guessing. This will be my first time doing gears, I’m a full time mechanic and I’m trying to familiarize myself before I dig in
When shimming the pinion, you have two options. You can place shims between the bearing and pinion head or you can place shims behind the race in the housing. Either way will require a setup bearing or a setup race that you can slide in and out to change shims. When adjusting shims, you are adding or subtracting to the same shim stack location.
Aside from the weight difference, were there any unique challenges to the 8.8 vs the D44s and D35s/30s you do more regularly?
Just the ARB seal housing. Everything else is the same.
So , is the pattern more important on the coast side?
It's important on both sides. But I like to favor the side that sees the majority of the load. For example, on a front high pinion dana 30 I would favor the drive side. On a low pinion rear axle, I would favor the drive side.
Is it possible to clock the ring gear so the cross shaft will clear between the teeth ? I was thinking that the teeth are probably not an even number so some orientation may be better than others ? Thanks
Usually it's two teeth on one side and one on the other that gets one the way. You can certainly try it, but you'll need to have the ring gear heated up to rotate it.
question, I have a 31 spline 8.8 cut down to size to fit my track car, its a custom 8.8 rear end, however it was the open variant. I bought a 31 spline LSD for the thing but I dont have a ARB nor do I need it, can i just follow the same steps but instead of using that arb bearing + seal housing, just use a normal bearing?
Yep
@@TheBFHGarage awesome thanks!
@@TheBFHGarage by chance do you have a parts list online or any links that could guide me to buy the appropriate bearings, races, and shims like you had in the video? I'm very new to ford parts so I dont really know where to look for them, sorry for the bother.
@@iReinTV I always just buy a master install kit for a particular axle. Comes with everything you need. Call Revolution Gear and Axle and tell them what you're looking for and they will make sure you get the right stuff.
13:16 never grind the ring gear, grind a small flat surface the length of the cross pin instead.
What temp did u use in the oven and how long?
180° seems to be my magic number that allows it to slide on without being loose. I would say at least 15-20 minutes.... Medium rare😂
I think you could use a new pair of gloves 😂 great video as usual!
Lol you are correct!
hi, what kind a pain are you using there?
??? Usually back pain🤣😂
@@TheBFHGarage lol. im sorry i try to said paint.
@@prospexican haven't decided just yet
@@prospexican gear marking compound. Any decent set a gears will include a tube with the gear set. If it didn't, you can get a tube online.
Permatex also sells one that's called Prussian Blue. That's available at most auto parts stores.
where did you get that "clam shell puller?"
I bought it off of a buddy of mine.... He bought it on eBay
Can anyone tell me what the s looking price does that locate between the spider gears on the axels
@@lindseysteele1436 clarify your statement, I'm not following you...
@@TheBFHGaragehe is talking about trac lock, the big S in between the spider gears in most mustangs and crown vics
Think I'd ground off material from the shaft.
Just did this on my garage floor laying on my back and I can confirm it sucks
😂🤣👍👍👍
Where is the video where you flatten down the pinion nut?
Flatten down? You mean take the edge off the threads? I just use a Dremel with a sanding drum
@@TheBFHGarage ah gotcha, i went ahead and did that and worked great 👍 thanks for video.
Wish u were in nyc
Glad I'm not!😂
@@TheBFHGarage ain't to many building clean rears like this