HO Scale Boxcar Replacing Cushion Coupler Pockets 11-1-15 Podcast
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ต.ค. 2015
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In this month's video podcast, Dan explains how to fix a boxcar that has messed up couplers. He demonstrates removing the hack jobbed couplers that are on it, files down the area where the new coupler goes, and puts on the new coupler boxes & couplers. If you have some cheap eBay bargains that need to be fixed, this might be just the thing for you!
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finger drills and razor saws are invaluable to have in a modelers toolbox...kitbashing is a blast. Great vid
Thanks for the video, well done. Just like to add a little tip about the drill bit work at 5:40. Sometimes you can get a broken electric hand drill, for cheap/free, that still has a good adjustable chuck. Take the chuck off and use it as a large pin vice. Works good and the extra weight helps some too.
The coupler looks so much cooler with the pin lifter modeled too.
Note: You can not use this product as-is with Athearn cars which have the weight between the floor and the underframe. The weight will need to either be cut short at both ends, notched above the coupler pocket area, or relocated above the floor. Relocating is the simplest solution for boxcars with non-opening doors, but this will leave a gap between the floor and underframe, however. A 0.040 " x 0.250" center sill shim will need to be cemented under the floor between the truck mounts, as well as 0.040" stringers cut to length and cemented to the floor. (I used 0.020" x 0.040" Evergreen strips laid on edge, which can be tricky if you have no patience.) With any of the three options, the original coupler pockets will need to be cut off after measuring where the back end of the new pockets will line up. The bottom of the floor will then need to have 0.050" X 0.250" of shimming added, whereupon the new pockets can then be attached.
The Details West instructions suggest a 00-90 screw for the coupler box lid. They also claim that pewter is a soft metal so tapping the hole is not necessary. This is NOT the case. If going with the instructions, you HAVE to drill out the upper half of the coupler pocket with a #65 drill bit before you can even attempt to screw in a 00-90 machine screw. A Phillips head screw is a definite plus. The instructions also suggest a 0-80 screw for attaching the coupler pocket to the body of the car. Again, you will have to drill out the plastic with 3/64ths inch drill bit to make it a little easier threading into plastic.
you should do a start to finish podcast on this car. starting with the couplers, paint stripping, repainting, detailing etc
Thanking you for this video. The Boxcar SHOCK CONTROL SANTA FE from this viewers point of view look fine on the camera. 9 times out of 10 the trucks wheels affect the car bodies height. I can tell it looked like a 33 inch wheels. Don't worry about the height I used a small diameter washer metal you could use Dubro or i purchased mine in assortments at a discount 99 cent store. This probably looks like ATHEARN GENESIS series or ROUNDHOUSE. Earlier & older models didn't print where the cars were made in at that time in The USA. I have to replace all of my Auto Boxcar swing bar coupler boxes. Some of them are nuisances & are plagued with defects. The metal snaps keep coming off & similar to the badly glued up one it didn't have support. But if the train is low as above mentioned the wheels play a role try 36 in case 33 doesn't work in height otherwise Details West is the model i'm looking for. All i need are the proper size 🔩 screws & good to go. Well done on this repair in spite of the lack of some tool equipment needed. Great job. ✅⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Frankenbuild is what I call these types of models and as weird as it seems it does reflect some of what actual railroads do to their cars to fit a specific purpose a customer requests. However the common place you see this "custom" car designs and modifications is with MOW equipment. You can get away with nearly anything with a model but only a certain amount in real life railroading when it comes to modifying a piece of equipment, as long as it passes the federal regulations for use on the railroad.
very helpful techniques
What Details West # kit did you use? Thanks
I'm pretty sure thats on old Atlas car from the early 2000s. I have that looks nearly identical, though it being a CSX.Great video, been wanting to order the DW cushion coupler box for a while now, good to see how they're mounted.
+MP352Studios One wonders what happened to it in the first place. Because of the "modifications" its previous owner made, it's a kibosh henceforth! :)
At what point should the coupler be mounted on the car frame instead of on the truck ("Talgo" type)? For a really long car like this, plus the cushion extension, means that when the car goes into a curve, unless it's a super-big radius (much more than 18" radius), the couple could be sticking so far to the side of the rail, that it could be binding against the side of the gear box and pull any attached car off the rail! The good thing about truck-mounted couplers is that in curves, the coupler tends to stay reasonably in the center of the track.
That's really a personal choice, and something that there isn't a "correct" answer to. The simplest answer I have for this is to use a truck mounted coupler when the prototype has one.
You might use truck mounted couplers out of necessity because you have tiny curves on your layout and body mounted ones won't work. See what I mean?
You not be using this car on 18-inch radius. The length of the car before the pockets is at 60-foot. 18-inch is best for 55-foot and small rolling stock. 22-inch and higher curves are best ror 55-foot and longer freight and passenger cars.
Do they still make Talgo equipped models? I know that is / was the industry standard for the cheap toy class trains back in the 80's / 90's
I know on my autoracks the couplers are frame mounted and the draft gear (coupler box) has a wider side to side margin for the coupler to pivot on. The couplers also have a longer shank than the standard Kadee #5 as well. I cant think of the number I got at this moment though.
Great vid! Isn't fixing and detailing the fun part of model railroading?
+Daniel Cortopassi Your welcome! By the way, the car looks to be made by Intermountain. I checked their website and they make an ATSF 60' PS-1 boxcar similar to this one. Might be a previous run.
what is the difference in the kadee couplers , I was going to buy some for the first time to change out couplers from the 1980's and they all have different numbers on them ,, 5 to say 59 I think I saw , so I didn't buy any , , and second question is how do you know what couplers to put on each car then since they must be different in some way ? thanks for this video , I think it going to help out a bit
thanks for explaining ,, so just kadee dot com
sparky107107 Kadee offers a coupler test kit that comes with many of the various Kadee couplers available along with uncoupling magnets and coupler hight gauge, I found it quite usful.
Would this coupler pocket work on a Athearn Blue box 86' boxcars an the big flatcars too? I have a lot of the Athearn 86' boxcar with the Walther conversion kits on them.
Probably not. Details West should have a variety of cushion coupler pockets to model specific types, including those for long cars that use couplers with long shanks designed to swivel widely in the pockets. I believe the part number is 1024. Check their website for more info.
need to plastic weld it, more authentic....
You need to get a pin vice
I have a pin vise. :D
Why in the world would someone have removed the original coupler boxes? They were cushion pockets with air line details and air hose attached. That's almost as sacrilegious as removing body mounted couplers and original trucks and replacing with Talgo trucks!
I think blma put a car out like that
+devin baker Could be. It's like I said in the video, it seems like there should be a brand label somewhere on it.
John
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