I already had my eye on this speaker cable for a while before seeing this video. I eventually took the plunge and bought some from Audiophonics based in France, 6 meters worth to start with. I tested it on my Bi-amped system and all I can say is, wow, superb sounding cable. Bass extension, clean, clearer mid range with a nice extended top end, massive soundstage, transparency, speed, focus and superb imaging is what you get. This speaker cable should be on anybody's short list of speaker cables if you have a high-end revealing system. A bargain cable for the DIYer and I highly recommend it. I tested out some Canare 4S11 (5 Euro Meter) which is great sounding cable that replaced my Van den hul ' The Wind' (40 GBP per meter back in the day) which blew it away. The Amadeus 5 Mk2 blew the Canare well out of the water and then some. I use 2+2 connections ( 2 locking bananas + 2 spades) for each cable length, 4 x 3 meter lengths for Bi-amping from 4 mono bloc amplifiers into a pair of Monitor Audio PL200 floor standing speakers.
Très beau travail, the only thing I can say is to test it with a multimeter to make sure there is no short between the wires before connecting it on the amplifier. Thanks for your great video as usual.
Hi My cable has finally arrived in New Zealand and I have made them up as a tri wire set up as my speakers are tri wired. I initially had the cables lying on the floor running to the speakers and they sounded very smooth and detailed but the music was a bit congested and lacking a bit of life. I then raised them off the floor using the cardboard centres of toilet rolls standing on end with a vee cut in one end (to locate the cable). Wow what a difference in sound! The sound really opened up and the life that was missing was all there. I am very happy with the sound of this cable and I find in my system that they are better than my Nordest flatline 2 speaker cables that I was using. The cables are connected between a Plinius SA100 MK2 class A power amp and Mourdant-Short 880 Performance speakers. Thank you so much for making me aware of this cable as I was looking at some other options - all of which I believe would have been inferior to this cable. Remember don't leave the cables lying on the floor or you are missing out on most of their potential! Regards Kevin
whaat da hell,always cables are lying on a floor. What the hell fifference does it make?? Or do you mean dirt floor or concrete floor? My cables are on a wood floor,insuleted from ground or concretefloor.
@@artsimannisto5659 Hi My cables were lying on a carpeted wooden floor. I have done quite a bit of research on cables and the reason is the floor changes the capacitance of the cable and therefore applies a different load to the amplifier. It is this different load that amplifier sees that causes the sound to change. In one of Paul from PS audios videos he mentions to always keep your speaker cables up off the floor. I had a set of old Monster cables that were a bit short to reach my amplifier so had them propped up as there was not enough length for them to go from the speaker terminals to the floor and along the floor to the Amplifier. I was confused as to how good they sounded as the music was full of life and my better cables that were lying on the floor were not as good. This is when I remembered Pauls comments and experimented. Have a go and see if it makes a difference for you with your current cables and let me know. The difference is subtle but noticeable when using decent HI Fi equipment. Good Luck.
@@kevinironside3624 ok good for u. Only desent unit i have is a Deck. Adf-770,aiwa. Amplifier/radio is yamaha htr 6130,so,lowend amp. speakers are audio pro,swedish stuff. Maby pro-cables in my case,makes zero effect...hehe..??
Just bought this cable from France which takes a week more to get it delivered to HK. After one day of run-in, the sound have improved a lot. I use the whole cable for bi-amping. Two core to high and four to the low. It seems that it is more nautral then my original (silver + AQ mix) in which it sounds like one driver as a whole instead of coming from 2 seperate drivers.
I have tried Ramm Audio Am5Mk2 speaker cable after the recommendation from this channel and seriously surprised with its performance. Didn’t stop there and tried Elite8 XLR interconnect from Ramm Audio and they are the best cables so far i ever listen to. I have replaced Audioquest rocket 88 and Audioquest Yukon XLR interconnect with Ramm Audio cables and extremely happy with the thick and clean mid range it can produce.
yes, since I discovered Ramm Audio cables I solved all my cable problems, Elite 8 interconnects and Amadeus 5 MK2 power cables are unbelievable!! I'm now waiting for another Amadeus 5 to use as speaker cables, can't wait!
9:12 Oxidation isn't an issue in every case; silver connectors can oxidize, but silver oxide conducts even better than pure silver! The silver oxidation also provides a "coating" against further corrosion. IMO, I agree that spades are the most reliable audiophile connector, but in general, I think the SpeakON connectors by Neutrik are the most reliable. 11:30 those parts are a wise choice, without those, the cable has no strain relief. So if something/someone pulls on the cable, the outer isolation can move in respect to the inner wires diminishing the cable construction (SpeakON has built-in strain relief though). 14:48 Can I use my cigar cutter on that cable too? 😜 16:33 I'm sorry to be "that guy", but bi from bi-wire is pronounced as bye in English, not as bee. 22:02 If you're into "cable direction" and there are no arrows on the cable to mark the direction, generally the letters can be used as marking. The start of the text is the input and the end of the text is the output. Even IF the direction is a thing, it's debatable if it applies to AC signals/noise, since the negative potential of the signals effectively goes the opposite direction. 28:33 The advantage of spades that need to be crimped on the copper with a crimping pliers, is that "automatic" crimping pliers has a self adjusting mechanism so that there's always the right amount of force applied to squeeze the spades on the copper. With screws/bolts there's a potential risk that they come loose over longer periods of time or that the bolts are screwed too tightly and the copper leads get squeezed too flat. 29:50 now that looks very neat! looks like you've got the skills for it! 👍
Hi there and thanks for you valuable comment. Well, yes, silver is great but it has different electrical properties than copper. As I said in teh first video, IMO it's better not to mix metals. Yes, you can use your cigar cutter ;-) Bi-wire, you'e right! Damm my Italian always gets me with names. Sorry! I do agree that crimping has the best contact but most crimping spades are of very bad quality plus I wanted to use the excellent Ramm ones. Ciao!
@@anadialog Ah funny how the Italian pronounciation of Bi is very similar to the pronounciation in Dutch (my native language) 😜 I agree that mixing metals for conductors isn't a good idea in general, especially because of the Seebeck effect that might occur. However, gold plating on connectors theoretically could cause similar issues. But there are exceptions when done right; silver plating can be very useful to prevent copper oxidation and it's often found on higher-end copper litz wires, such as Ortofon headshell wires or Superflex tonearm wires by KAB.
@@QoraxAudio The Seebeck effect is just one of three separate effects (Seebeck, Peltier and Thompson) which together is referred to as the "thermoelectric effect". It is highly doubtful that this effect can have any influence on the application of different metals in a speaker cable and connections especially because the Peltier effect alternately heats and cools the junction with alternating direction of current. This along with all of the other claims of superiority, other than resistance, is pure snake oil.
When my cables start approaching hose pipe size I only feel secure about the connections when I use SpeakON. And the ones that use a screw-and-plate system to squeeze the conductors are especially reassuring and easy to work with.
Unless you have a dedicated crimping tool which gives you an airtight (voidless) crimp soldering is the better option. With large wire cross sections (4mm2 and larger) it is difficult to solder as it requires a lot of heat. Speaker wire is an issue, usually. I like ultrasonic welding but this is not accessible to most people. Blue Jeans does it right. Cardas Quad is my solder of choice (hypereutectic).
I recommend getting the Miccah pure copper 14awg for $40 for a 12 foot pair with gold banana plugs. They sound amazing even when compared to cables that cost in the thousands
Woohoo! Great job, man! A good amount of expensive cables are most likely pricey due to the time and work involved. All the more reason to DIY what you can, as long as the quality is there, which it obviously is with those cables you just made. Bravo!
I think 50 dollars / meter is still expensive for a speaker cable. I use ProCab Reference, which is actually pro audio stuff and only about 4 bucks / meter (most pro audio cables are significantly cheaper than audiophile cables, speaker cables in particular) - it works very well. Especially in combination with the easy to use Neutrik SpeakON connectors it makes a very sturdy cable and provides a very reliable connection that's even suitable for 'on the road' applications! I have a reel containing that type of cable of about 30 meters laying around somewhere, so I can cut off the right length whenever I need to. Btw, according to Fat Rat, solid core speaker cables are the best - knowing him, he'd probably bash this video 😜
Caro Aldo I followed your suggestions and I'm very happy. In few months a did several upgrades to my speaker cables as you suggest. I started with Ramm Audio Amadeus and finally I got the Neotech NES-3001 for the High Frequency and the Neotech NES-3002 for the Low frequency. AMAZING nothing to compare with the other cable that I owned before (very expensive one - NBS, Nordost, Audioquest). I would like to thank you for your advise. kindly recommended. Don't use the any Silver cable this is my recommendation. Non rispondere a sti ingegneri da tastiera che sono solo capaci a dirti che 1 feet is not 1 meter. Nessuno di loro ha seguito i tuoi preziosi consigli. Questa gente e' da bannare e non degna di ricevere risposta alcuna. GRANDE
Grazie mille Fabrizio! Gentilissimo! Thank you so much Fabrizio for your words. My name is not Aldo, it's another subscriber that likes to call me that way! 😂 Congrats also for taking the Neotech jump! Once you try that, you can't look back! Bravo!
I am just wondering if you can share your experience with Ramm audio amandeus compared to audioquest. I am currently using Audioquest rocket 88 but not very happy with lack of neutrality compared to van den hul i used before. Any idea if it is worth replacing rocket 88 with amandeus ? In your experience with other brands where amandes sits with other popular brands ? Thanks
I built this cable according to your specifications in July / August, extremely happy with the result. First tested on my old Onkyo NT-TX747 amplifier, and then switched to my new Hegel H160. This cable did more to the sound than replacing the amplifier ... A few months later, the sound is the same, but I see that the unprotected copper oxidizes quickly?
Going over this old vid as I am looking at sorting out my speaker cables. The big issue I have with all speaker cables is that the live and drain(is that correct? ) cables run next to each other. I want to use two completely separate cables for live and drain. and install them so there is a decent gap(20mm) between each.
If you put some good distance it is undoubtedly better, lowering capacitance a lot but it is difficult and in most cases ugly to look at. Otherwise you can twist them, that also helps (with a good amount of dielectric around each cable).
I'll put my best lps up later. Every single stereo shop I have talked to, I have asked them, if u were on a desert island, which would u pick of these 100 cds, which would you pick as the best sounding cd. Every single stereo shop said that the best of these 1 out of the 100 cds is all 100 of the them. Listed in alphabetical order. 1. Baden Powell- baden plays Vinicius (1973) Spanish, best acoustical guitarist I have ever heard 2. Baden powell-solitude (1971) 3. Don baker_ duckin & Divin (2006) worlds best harmonica 4. bamboo (1971) as clear as flute can get 5. Beatles-love 6. Beatles- revolver Beatles- yellow submarine 7. bud Shank-magical mystery (1971) Absolutely perfect sound, I keep this under beatles, its beatles songs 8. beck-sea change MFSL 92003) much better remaster, the lp goes for $300 9. George benson& jack mcduff (1964) jazz 10. blind faith(1971) Deluxe Edition, the extra cd worth it 11. dave Brubeck-time further out (1961) 12.dave Brubeck-time out (1958) jazz 13. Kenny burrell midnight blue (1961) jazz 14. tracy chapman tracy chapman (1994) this can be on lp, too 15. John Coltrane a love subpreme (1958) jazz !6. John Coltrane-ole (1963) elvin jones drums 17. Ry cooder- a meeting by the river (19990 pure analog, better than the later digital remaster. The remaster is the only one u can get on lp that's great must have cd 18. Keith cooper- sacred dance (2000) strums guitar with both hands 19. Mike cooper-trout steel(1970) great acoustic guitar 20. Cure- disentigration, mixed up, 7 wish cds, not perfect sound 21. the exotic sounds of martin den- primativa (1958) perfect sound 22. willie Dixon-I am the blues. walter Horton on harmonica 23. Dylan- blood on the tracks- not perfect sound (1968) 24. Dylan-hard to handle (1995) not perfect sound 25. Dylan MTV Unplugged (1996) perfect sound 26. Bill frisello with dave Holland & elvin jones (2001) must have for great sound 27. Emmylou harrisspyboy live (1999) dont get this mixed up with plain spyboy. clearest ever heard at all frequencies 28. Michael hedges-oracle (1996) 29. jimi Hendrix-blues new cd of old stuffgreat sound 30. dave Holland-hands (2010) great acoustic guitar 31. the best of HOOKER N HEAT (1971) 32. lightnin' Hopkins- blues hoot (1961) DCCCD remasteranalog steve Hoffman 33. Freddie hubbard-straight lifejazz. George bensen on guitar. This is CBS original, I dont like remaster 34. dave grusin-discovered again (1976) direct to disc, great 35. James gang-rides again(1971) lp is great 36. Jazz at the pawnshop)1979)analog recorded in café in open box for sound 37. J. K. & Co.-suddenly one summer(1968) boy played all guitars 38. Elton john-tumbleweed connection (1971) mick ronson guitar lp is great 39.albert king-I'll play the blues for you (1970) 12 track version 40. Leo kottke 6 & 12 string (!969) 41. Led Zeppelin 3 (1971) lp is better 41. The Maureeny Wishful album (1967) jimiie Page, better than led zed albums 42. Little feat-waiting for Columbus- (1973) perfect sound recorded in cathedral. MFSL analog tube remaster with better tone 43. Nils Lofgren-acoustic live (1998) 44. Antonio Lysy at the Broad-music from argentina (2009) analog recorded. cellos. Great audiophile 45. herbie mann- live at the whiskey a go go (1961) flute, great sound 46. dave Matthews & tim Reynolds-live at luther college (2008) 47. medicine head-new bottles old medicine (1970) 48. Mississippi fred mcdowall- I dont play no rock & roll (1969) black acoustic guitar blues 49. modest mouse-this is a long time (1996)analog recorded 50. van morrison-astral weeks (1968) remaster. one of the finest albums recorded all acoustic in 2 days. acoustic bass is wild 51. Penguin café orchestra- a brief history (1971) 52. Autumn Shuffle-Per af Ugglas (2007) analog recorded, hybrid sacd or xrcd, I like both 53. Quicksilver messenger service-happy trails (1968) 54. Quicksilver messenger service- live at the filmore (1968) 55. quicksilver messenger service-quicksilver messenger service (1968) 56. rolling stones-letit bleed (1969) ry cooder guitar. bob lutz 2002 remaster. a great remaster. sold unmarked in storesas a hybrid cd, as all of stones cds. 57. sonny Rollins-thebridge 91962 jazz just only greaton saxophone 58. Santana1, abraxas, & 3. abraxas on lp is mind blowing, especially the 1st lps. 59. shanti (1971) amazing inside your head mid east recording 60. Horace silver - cape Verdean blues (1964) rudy van gelder 24 bit 2003 remaster.Rudy made his own electronics & was afraid thieves would steal it, he guarded it. 61. Son house-father of the delta blues (1965) black acoustic guitar 62. Jeremy steig-howling for judy91971) blue note, great flute 63. Jeremy steig-wayfaring stranger ( blue note, best flute air I have heard. 64. cat stevens-tea for the tillerman (1971) 65. Steve Stills-super session (1968) 66. taj mahal-live & direct (1975) direct to disc 67. taj mahal - taj mahal (1968) 68. ten years after-recorded live (1971) 69.traffic-welcome to the canteen (1971) I'm crazy on this jazz rock cd. 70. U2- Joshua tree. not perfect sound. 71. the string quartet tribute to U2 Joshua tree (2004) 72. peter walker-rainy day raga (1966) mind blowing India like acoustic guitar 73. war-all day music 74. war-war (1971) worth getting for great 10 minute track 75. jennifer warnes-the hunter 919920 raincoat is better, but I like deep bass on some tracks 76. Jennifer warnes- raincoat the remaster is much better, the MFSL remaster by analog tube remaster has better tone. 77. who- live at leeds (1971) Deluxe Edition, any remaster has better sound 78. who-now & zen (2005) best sound hits version 78.who-quadrophenia (1971) the 2nd remaster 10 years ago has better sound than the bob lutz remaster. fans complained they couldn't find the analog version of tapes. 79. wilco-being there (1999) This sounds analog 80. George Winston-December (1985) 20th anniversary remaster. has a crisper sound hdcd best piano cd made 81. Gretchen yanover-bow & cello black lady beautiful cello tone
Bravo. Hai spiegato molto bene. However as audiophiles, we are an extremely fussy group. No matter on how many times we wash our hands, there will always be a minute amount of oil/debris that will make contact with the bare wires. Solution is to wear latex and powder free vinyl gloves. Please correct me if I'm wrong! Pace a tutti.
Very cool. I'm going to try building a cable like this. I am going to do it from the cable I'm already using to keep costs under control (van den Hul D-352 speaker cable). Try what a shorter cable with spades will do....
Just use this scheme: www.google.com/search?q=ramm+audio+amadeus.biwiring&client=ms-android-samsung-gs-rev1&source=android-browser&prmd=ivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiUyeKJ_e3tAhXG3KQKHT5lBmsQ_AUoAXoECAIQAQ&biw=412&bih=682&dpr=2.63#imgrc=fPvoBfX-hYHlgM If you are just biwiring, use it this way, if you are bi-amping use the same scheme that is employed on the speaker side.
No wait, 3 conductors for each pair of connectors: 2 conductors for one pole and the third goes to the opposite pole. As I said, look at the scheme on the loudspeaker side and use it also on the amp side (if you are bi-amping)
Not to complain because i love your channel and we share the same thoughts/philosopy on hifi gear but didnt you say in part1 to not use shielded speaker cables? This has shielding around each section of conductors. I also have found out about neotech and will be uppgrading my entire cabling to neotech diy. Maybe i choose the little cheaper oyaide occ 5mm2 solid shielded powercable from the fusecentral to the wallsocket because of the length. But in the musicroom I go neo👍 this ramm cable seem to be very affordable compared to the performance. Great Work!
Nice video! Did you also try this cable (Amadeus 5 MK2) as single cable for red and black (so 2 cables in stead of one)? Does it match the neotech 3001 of you do that? Regards, Tini
Hello my Dear! @ ,17:19 you cut the hollow, brown one? i would not do this! This is actually the Storage for recommended Snake Oil ! lol....But, all in all: It´s a nice Tonearm-Cable! hehe
Thanks, I will be trying these. On their web site, I was unable to figure out if the wires were twisted inside the cables. I assume that they tested the inductance and added twists if needed though.
Are you sure it does not matter which colours to combine in red and black? In the technical video, you explained that you can reduce the magenetic field (induction) by twisting the wires. So I'm thinking maybe alternate + and - wires that are laid out around the empty brown wire? E.g. combine green, yellow and black in one channel and the rest in the other?
@@anadialog You choose to combine 3 adjecent wires, as that is the most easy to get a neat combinatioin. But what I am thinking about is the question what combination would make for the smallest magnetic field. As twisting + around - reduced the magnetic field, then probably alternating adjecent + and - in the layout of the cable also reduces the magnetic field. Downside is that it would take a bit more effort (or strip a bit more cable) to then twist the 3 (non adjecent) strands into 1. Of course, this is all theoretical. It remains to be seen if any of this would give any audible result :-).
Great stuff as always. Even at US prices it's still well below a cable of equal quality from any of the various companies. I may sell my cables and make these. Make first sell second actually!
Thanks for yet another great video! When connecting RME ADI-2 PRO FS R to two Genelec 8320A, what XLR cables should I use? Shielded vs unshielded vs filtered? Silver vs copper? OFC vs OCC? Etc... What is your recommendation for optimal reference grade performance for mastering?
With XLR things are better! Shielding isn't very important due to the balanced design. I would go with OCC copper if possible. Here is a recent video I made on the topic: th-cam.com/video/y5h_Qa6A4IU/w-d-xo.html
You are right! I did not notice this. Sorry about that. It's incredible that in Europe the price is 1/3! I am going to contact the company and investigate.
I was going to give this a try and I went to the US website and I was like??? damn This is going to cost me 800 dollars in cable alone HAHAHA 16 feet x 50 ouch.
ANA[DIA]LOG Thanks! 😀🙏You changed world! 🙏😀Now please call 202-456-1414 (The White House) and fix the one there. Haha! In all seriousness thank you very much!
The Amadeus is perfect for bi-wiring. Just follow this scheme: www.google.com/search?q=ramm+audio+amadeus+biwire&client=ms-android-samsung-gs-rev1&source=android-browser&prmd=imvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi85pvHy4TuAhVIasAKHWSoDXoQ_AUoAXoECAMQAQ&biw=412&bih=682&dpr=2.63#imgrc=fPvoBfX-hYHlgM
why didnt you use copper spades that are crimped and then soldered, surly that would be the best option for these cables ??? ps lovely cables i may treat my self :) good vid
Usually crimped spades are not high quality and I wanted to use the ones from Ramm, which are very good. I do agree that a true crimp is a better connection.
@@anadialog thank you for your great channel. i have researched and found that as contact pressure increases resistance decreases(there is a formula) and then soldering the joint holds everything in place and stops oxidation of the joint. in my opinion there is nothing better than crimp&solder, but i understand your reservations regarding getting hold of good quality copper spades.
For all of the expense going towards wire with supposed benefit from continuous crystals, those spade plug screw joints don't seem to provide remotely the same quality of continuity. The set screws will only press the wires into the housing at two spots and the screw will likely act like a wedge to spread the wires apart rather that hold them together. A simple crimp, by contrast, is created with so much force that it effectively cold welds the strands of wires together and creates a 360 degree joint between the two metals.
Yes, I agree a true crimp should be better but I wanted to use the Ramm products throughout and see the results and for now I must admit thatbI am very pleased. For the record the spades have 3 screws to fix the cable.
Valid point, but unless the connection is loose or compramised in another way, your never going to hear the difference,, can you imagine doing a blind test,, trying to ID, the difference in sound between spades and banannas,, 😂
Thanks! Great information but one question if you don't mind. My Polk R700 speakers have separate binding posts on the back one to the woofers and one to the tweeters. They come bridged together but they say running a separate wire from the amplifier to the binding posts are better than using the bridge they give you. You can bi-amp but I'm not doing that. Should I use two separate wires to each speaker from each of my mono amps? Also, since this video is from 2020 would you change anything you recommended here?
Looks like you answered my question at 16:52 in the video! However would still like your opinion as to whether there is an advantage of this bi-wiring.
Absolutely yes! When possible try to bi-wire. I had a pair of ATC and after removing the jumpers they finally started to sing, even if I wasn't bi-amping either. For the quality/peice ratio I still recommend these. Clearly something with PTFE (teflon) would be better, like the Neotech. In fact now I have those, which are certainly better but not day and night difference.
@@anadialog Just great info always. Going to order the Cable and parts today! Now I have two new hobbies, watching your channel; and building cables!!👍
If you bi wire, your going to have 2 wires together for one post and only one wire for the other post right? I assume you keep the combined two as positive (for example) for both right and left?
Hi. This cable looks good and sophisticated, I was going to buy but I stumble upon a neotech nemos 3080 with occ solid ectangular conductors, about the same price, not so sophisticated build though, simple made, but has Teflon insulation. Have you tried it? What's your opinion on this?
Neotech is always the best. I have made a pair of interconnects with the Nemo 3080 for my Telefunken M15. Its an amazing cable. Maybe the gauge is a little too small. Larger cables as I have explained in part 1 of the video are greatly beneficial.
and now there's something even better, OCC single Crystal silver and copper rectangular wire, outperforms the round wire significantly, their top of the line cable is called Sahara for the copper and Amazon for the silver.
Good vid, but there's no benefit to splitting the signal path with lengths under 3 meters, you'll also get a stronger signal from a single conductor of equal properties.
Hi. I am Bi-amping a set of JBL Everest DD67000 speaker using 2 McIntosh MC901 amps. This amp consists of a 600 watt solid state amp and a 300 watt tube amp in one chassis. Should I build 2 separate cables for each speaker?
Cool! Give us some feedback after burn-in! Just for the record, I want to underline that I am not earning anything by recommending their products, they're just good and I like to share that! No affiliation!
Hi Excellent video thanks. I have speakers that are tri wired and was wondering if I can use just use 1 pair of wires to go to each terminal on the speakers or will I need to run 2 of these cables and make one biwired and the other the same as you made in your video? Thanks in advance.
Yes, you can use 3 separate wires the problem is usually to connect all three of them at the amp side. In any case the Ramm cables has enough wires to do a tri-wire connection if you like. Just use two cables for each input on the loudspeaker side!
@@anadialog Hi Thanks so much for your quick reply. I will make some speaker cables and provide some feed back on how they perform compared to my current cables. Please be patient as it may take a while to get sorted as I live in New Zealand.
Crimping is good when wires are cropped together with the connector. In this case it’s better to twist and insert to leave the surfaces nice and shiny.
I used 5 m of cable (250€) plus 8 spades both by Ramm (110€), total 360€. Audioquest, if I don't go wrong, does not have OCC copper speaker cables, only OFC (long grain is just a more pure OFC).
Hi! Thanks for video. Regarding Bi-Wire, these split into 2 pairs of 2 conductors and 2 pairs of 1 conductor. Are there concerns in this for the single conductor lead? It looks in the graphic that single conductor is routed to highs and double conductor to lows.
Yes, on the side of the amp you create a pair of wires made up of 3 wires each. On the loudspeakers side, you create 4 wires, a pair of two and a pair of single wires. Here you can see the scheme: www.audiophonics.fr/img/cms/Images/Produits/12K/12202/Amadeus5-1.jpg
Banana plugs actually have more surface area than spade connectors so technically banana plugs actually will get you a more solid connection. If you want to be scientifically technical.
Its very simple, the main reason is resistance, but not only. Check the first part I have explained why it is important to have the right gauge otherwise you will have issues if they are too think, or other issues is they are too thin.
If the 12 gauge is too thick for my binding posts, should i peel back some strands backwards against the wire and add the shrink wrap tubing over these strands to cover them up ? Would this be okay ??
@@anadialog Hi, and thank you for the answer, but im afraid my post wasnt clear as to bending the excess wire back. The plastic is cut, exposing the copper wires. Are the wires i am bending backward bent over the exposed copper, or are they bent over the plastic tubing surrounding the wire, and then, i add the tubing that shrinks, leaving only what i need for the binding post ? Sorry about being anal !
You say that soldering is bad. I can understand why, but when soldering is good and when is it bad? Do soldering a crossover is bad for the sound quality?
Soldiering is always bad because it creates signal loss also because of the different electrical properties. A good cold mechanical crimp of joint is always better.
@@anadialog I used DNM solid core (silver ribbon structure wire )for the tweeter, and AQ Midnight 2 for the low frequency drivers all terminated with WBT banana plugs to a LS3 /5A loudspeaker. However, I move my amp location recently, the cables are not long enough, so I would like to give this cable a try. I would try two wires for the high, and four for the low, the whole cable first. Then try two wires for the high + AQ Midnight for the low, and the last is to try whole six wires for the high + AQ for the low to see which one is better.😊
I doubt that those spades are really of high quality. First of all, they seem to be made of some sort of brass and have smooth gold plating (with a nickel base) thus are most likely having the hard serfice. That would prevent them from making the best possible contact with the binding posts. IMHO spade connectors have to be made of soft copper with direct gold or silver plating. In that case spade material conforms to the binding post surface imperfections and forms air-tight solid connection. And second, such screw connection could not provide any good quality contact for the multistrand wires. A good spade should have either criming type connection or at least some gold/silver plated copper crim-on ferrule should be used between any stranded wire and spade's clamping screw .
Are you joking? I only use prime components. The spades have a double coating of gold and they are made out of pure copper. I soft connector is generally not a good idea for spades because you indent the surface when locking them. Here is the site of the manufacturer: aecoustics.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=184
@@anadialog Thank you for the information. If we trust manufacturer's claims about the material and direct plating then these connectors are in fact better than I thought. My mistake. However I still insist that only spades with a soft surface can make a good reliable contact. Hard spades are the reason why many people including Gene DellaSala from "Audioholics.com" falsely believe that banana plugs always make better connections than spades.
Not really, the word itself explains it: technology is composed by the Greek word tekne, art, work and loghia, study, explanation...technological research was done to reach that conclusion. Doesn't have to be electrical....I think you are confused with electronic.
@@NickP333 Hahaha Hi Nick, good to see you again! Yeah I like TH-cam traditions and I'm subscribed to all the good hifi channels like this one! 👌 I don't know if Rattus also knows this channel, but yeah... he probably does, since he seems to be an integral part of the TH-cam hifi community, just like me and you 😉 We'll probably hear more of him by the time it's daytime in Australia, because that's where he lives (I'm Dutch, GMT+1 here).
Qorax Hahaha! I’m. sure Rat knows about this channel too. I love the TH-cam HiFi / VC family. There’s always the regulars, and it’s even cooler that we’re from all over the world. With the 3 of us we’ve got The Netherlands, Australia, and I’m in the US. I’m sure we’ll all meet up somewhere else soon. Haha! 😂🎶🔊✌️🎵🥳
I think you should check your math! At 50 us dollars per foot it would equate to 145 euros per meter not the 45 euros you claim. Are we talking apples to apples?
I think you did not watch carefully! At 12:06 I clearly wrote on the screen the 1m / 3.2ft, that is one meter equals three point two feet (not 1 foot) is around 50$ and in Europe roughly 45/50€.
I do see now that on the Ramm audio store the price is 50$ per foot (perhaps you were referring to that) while in Europe we spend much much less! 50€ for 3 feet! Absurd!
Where are you? did you give up? Furthermore if dielectrics burn in then the capacitor is damaged. If you mean electrolytic capacitors they have to be formated. The dielectrics of it is aluminium oxyde. The higher the capacity, the thiner the oxyde film and even the lower the voltage. If you are using electrolytic capacitors in your audio path you'll get some bad and inconstant results because their capacity tolerance is normall -50/+100 %. Precision elko's are a bit better. Polycarbonate and especially PTFE are far better and lasting over years without degrading. Tell wich audio engineers are talking such bullshit. I've studied electronics engineer decades ago and be specialised in audio recording and playback on STUDER tapemachines if you know them. Even I devloped Hi class audio speakers with precision frequency range and cabling inside. I know very well what I'm talking about.
The arrows showing the direction on the cables jacket is for manufacturing purposes only. The arrows have absolutely nothing to do with electricity flow. Electricity flows 100% identical through both ends of the cable. There is no right or wrong way to connect the cable. Only a very picky individual who calls themselves an " Audiophile" would even say such things. Remember people, Audiophile and Pedophile are very close. One just means they'll do anything and everything mentally and physically to obtain the sound quality they feel if perfection to them. Key word " Them". I say that because audio is subjective because everyone has different hearing. Most audiophiles claim to hear " Soundstage" when Soundstage was created to justify an audiophiles mental health issues of a created false reality.
I think your comment is out of place. In any case, you are completely wrong. Arrows indicate on which side the shield is connected. No mumbo jumbo, just solid engineering my biased viewer.
Indents, really, what kind of snake oil engineering is that? Any AES paper on those. Also directional cables? As you can tell the electricity where to go by inverting the cable. wow
Since you clearly don’t know why cables are directional (makes me wonder if the rest) I will explain it to you. Cables are directional because the shield is connected only on one side. Simple simple science.
@@anadialog jajaja really tell that to my car battery or to my microwave. No it's that simple the shield can't do anything either as it's not in the path. Indents!!! jajaj and then you twist the ends creating multiple indents jajaj Simple science too? You are a fluke, just like the ones that use pretty meaningless words when describing gear.
Again a huge BS story. Go and buy a bit thick stranded twin cable (which has a marker on one side). Strip the cable, and do not touch the copper. As long as it's stays around 2 x 4 to 5 meter, you have a perfect connection. As when one doesn't uses plugs, you have a perfect connection! Every other solution is inferior. Total cost 8 Euro! Nothing, but nothing will beat this.
You're talking alot of bullshit. Burn in of speaker cables!! LOL!! What do you want to burn in? The electrons do not travel in the cable they only shaking because it's AC. So there is no preference of the direction. Did you ever heard about the skin effect? Apparently not. All electric cables are OFC, because it's electrolytic copper. It's always funny to watch your videos because it's religion and esoteric. Once another guy like you want to persuade me that a vinyl record has e frequency range up to 70 KHz. LOL!
As I said in the video, and several other audio engineers out there, mainly dielectrics need burn-in/brake-in. I mentioned skin effect. I am afraid that you have a serious ear problem or just a severe attention deficiency. Very few electric cables are OFC even your milkman knows that. It is a very expensive procedure as well as the final copper produced. OCC copper, that is the subject of the video, again please pay attention, is by far superior to all and even more expensive. Vinyl frequency range up to 70Khz? Yes, he was wrong. It is actually 122Khz: www.positive-feedback.com/Issue2/mastering.htm This is called proof, not babbeling around with no evidence. Now that we have filled up your lack of knowledge we can all move on and please next time take some notes.
@@anadialog Sorry you are a noob. What's so special in your experiments? It's amateur not professional. What do you think did I learn decades ago? You simply have no clue, sorry about.
@@anadialog Sorry you don't have no clue what's going on. You are talking alot of bullshit. Your explanations are completely wrong. You cannot check out cables in this way. Another proof that you are a poor amateur is if you say that vinyl has 122 KHz max frequency.. LOL!!! These guys in the video link are just funny clowns. Their experiment has interferencies and they thougt that they have cut 122 KHz onto vinyl with 33 rpm. That's physically impossible !!! With 33 rpm you'll get a speed of about 35 cm/s wich gives you at 122 KHz a wavelenght of only 283 nano meter !! No mechanical system in this world is able to read this out, especially not from vinyl because you never can cut such micro structures. Even no diamond is small enough and it's inertia is far to big. I don't want to mention the acceleration wich would be the result. You see you are a poor noob. Don't beleive all what's coming on from other poeple if you are unable to proof it by yourself.
A beautiful aesthetic upgrade but so much nonsense and bs regarding sound characteristics. Reminds me of the flat earther movement.... Lovely job none the less.
![ANA[DIA]LOG](http://yt3.ggpht.com/50CpmGNilS8aoMlarZVhI_GxRDoZdbj4ZgwCMZXg-Rq2PrEvCytlE6RVyLUrNY-rwE_sAlZ1Zw=s48-c-k-c0x00ffffff-no-rj)
I already had my eye on this speaker cable for a while before seeing this video. I eventually took the plunge and bought some from Audiophonics based in France, 6 meters worth to start with. I tested it on my Bi-amped system and all I can say is, wow, superb sounding cable. Bass extension, clean, clearer mid range with a nice extended top end, massive soundstage, transparency, speed, focus and superb imaging is what you get. This speaker cable should be on anybody's short list of speaker cables if you have a high-end revealing system. A bargain cable for the DIYer and I highly recommend it. I tested out some Canare 4S11 (5 Euro Meter) which is great sounding cable that replaced my Van den hul ' The Wind' (40 GBP per meter back in the day) which blew it away. The Amadeus 5 Mk2 blew the Canare well out of the water and then some. I use 2+2 connections ( 2 locking bananas + 2 spades) for each cable length, 4 x 3 meter lengths for Bi-amping from 4 mono bloc amplifiers into a pair of Monitor Audio PL200 floor standing speakers.
Cool!
Très beau travail, the only thing I can say is to test it with a multimeter to make sure there is no short between the wires before connecting it on the amplifier. Thanks for your great video as usual.
Indeed! Good idea!
Hi My cable has finally arrived in New Zealand and I have made them up as a tri wire set up as my speakers are tri wired. I initially had the cables lying on the floor running to the speakers and they sounded very smooth and detailed but the music was a bit congested and lacking a bit of life. I then raised them off the floor using the cardboard centres of toilet rolls standing on end with a vee cut in one end (to locate the cable). Wow what a difference in sound! The sound really opened up and the life that was missing was all there. I am very happy with the sound of this cable and I find in my system that they are better than my Nordest flatline 2 speaker cables that I was using. The cables are connected between a Plinius SA100 MK2 class A power amp and Mourdant-Short 880 Performance speakers. Thank you so much for making me aware of this cable as I was looking at some other options - all of which I believe would have been inferior to this cable. Remember don't leave the cables lying on the floor or you are missing out on most of their potential! Regards Kevin
Cool! Thanks for sharing that!
whaat da hell,always cables are lying on a floor. What the hell fifference does it make?? Or do you mean dirt floor or concrete floor?
My cables are on a wood floor,insuleted from ground or concretefloor.
@@artsimannisto5659 Hi My cables were lying on a carpeted wooden floor. I have done quite a bit of research on cables and the reason is the floor changes the capacitance of the cable and therefore applies a different load to the amplifier. It is this different load that amplifier sees that causes the sound to change. In one of Paul from PS audios videos he mentions to always keep your speaker cables up off the floor. I had a set of old Monster cables that were a bit short to reach my amplifier so had them propped up as there was not enough length for them to go from the speaker terminals to the floor and along the floor to the Amplifier. I was confused as to how good they sounded as the music was full of life and my better cables that were lying on the floor were not as good. This is when I remembered Pauls comments and experimented. Have a go and see if it makes a difference for you with your current cables and let me know. The difference is subtle but noticeable when using decent HI Fi equipment. Good Luck.
@@kevinironside3624 ok good for u. Only desent unit i have is a Deck. Adf-770,aiwa. Amplifier/radio is yamaha htr 6130,so,lowend amp. speakers are audio pro,swedish stuff. Maby pro-cables in my case,makes zero effect...hehe..??
Just bought this cable from France which takes a week more to get it delivered to HK. After one day of run-in, the sound have improved a lot. I use the whole cable for bi-amping. Two core to high and four to the low. It seems that it is more nautral then my original (silver + AQ mix) in which it sounds like one driver as a whole instead of coming from 2 seperate drivers.
I have tried Ramm Audio Am5Mk2 speaker cable after the recommendation from this channel and seriously surprised with its performance. Didn’t stop there and tried Elite8 XLR interconnect from Ramm Audio and they are the best cables so far i ever listen to. I have replaced Audioquest rocket 88 and Audioquest Yukon XLR interconnect with Ramm Audio cables and extremely happy with the thick and clean mid range it can produce.
Great! Thanks for your feedback!
yes, since I discovered Ramm Audio cables I solved all my cable problems, Elite 8 interconnects and Amadeus 5 MK2 power cables are unbelievable!! I'm now waiting for another Amadeus 5 to use as speaker cables, can't wait!
9:12 Oxidation isn't an issue in every case; silver connectors can oxidize, but silver oxide conducts even better than pure silver!
The silver oxidation also provides a "coating" against further corrosion.
IMO, I agree that spades are the most reliable audiophile connector, but in general, I think the SpeakON connectors by Neutrik are the most reliable.
11:30 those parts are a wise choice, without those, the cable has no strain relief. So if something/someone pulls on the cable, the outer isolation can move in respect to the inner wires diminishing the cable construction (SpeakON has built-in strain relief though).
14:48 Can I use my cigar cutter on that cable too? 😜
16:33 I'm sorry to be "that guy", but bi from bi-wire is pronounced as bye in English, not as bee.
22:02 If you're into "cable direction" and there are no arrows on the cable to mark the direction, generally the letters can be used as marking. The start of the text is the input and the end of the text is the output. Even IF the direction is a thing, it's debatable if it applies to AC signals/noise, since the negative potential of the signals effectively goes the opposite direction.
28:33 The advantage of spades that need to be crimped on the copper with a crimping pliers, is that "automatic" crimping pliers has a self adjusting mechanism so that there's always the right amount of force applied to squeeze the spades on the copper. With screws/bolts there's a potential risk that they come loose over longer periods of time or that the bolts are screwed too tightly and the copper leads get squeezed too flat.
29:50 now that looks very neat! looks like you've got the skills for it! 👍
Hi there and thanks for you valuable comment.
Well, yes, silver is great but it has different electrical properties than copper. As I said in teh first video, IMO it's better not to mix metals.
Yes, you can use your cigar cutter ;-)
Bi-wire, you'e right! Damm my Italian always gets me with names. Sorry!
I do agree that crimping has the best contact but most crimping spades are of very bad quality plus I wanted to use the excellent Ramm ones.
Ciao!
@@anadialog Ah funny how the Italian pronounciation of Bi is very similar to the pronounciation in Dutch (my native language) 😜
I agree that mixing metals for conductors isn't a good idea in general, especially because of the Seebeck effect that might occur.
However, gold plating on connectors theoretically could cause similar issues.
But there are exceptions when done right; silver plating can be very useful to prevent copper oxidation and it's often found on higher-end copper litz wires, such as Ortofon headshell wires or Superflex tonearm wires by KAB.
@@QoraxAudio The Seebeck effect is just one of three separate effects (Seebeck, Peltier and Thompson) which together is referred to as the "thermoelectric effect". It is highly doubtful that this effect can have any influence on the application of different metals in a speaker cable and connections especially because the Peltier effect alternately heats and cools the junction with alternating direction of current. This along with all of the other claims of superiority, other than resistance, is pure snake oil.
When my cables start approaching hose pipe size I only feel secure about the connections when I use SpeakON. And the ones that use a screw-and-plate system to squeeze the conductors are especially reassuring and easy to work with.
The only time cable direction matters, is if the shield is only connected on one side. Connect that side to source. (Usually)
Unless you have a dedicated crimping tool which gives you an airtight (voidless) crimp soldering is the better option. With large wire cross sections (4mm2 and larger) it is difficult to solder as it requires a lot of heat. Speaker wire is an issue, usually. I like ultrasonic welding but this is not accessible to most people. Blue Jeans does it right. Cardas Quad is my solder of choice (hypereutectic).
comprehensive and so well demonstrated Guido, thanks!
Thanks. I ordered the kit from US and it’s on the way.
Give us some feedback! :-)
I recommend getting the Miccah pure copper 14awg for $40 for a 12 foot pair with gold banana plugs. They sound amazing even when compared to cables that cost in the thousands
Amazing! Might have to do this.
Woohoo! Great job, man! A good amount of expensive cables are most likely pricey due to the time and work involved. All the more reason to DIY what you can, as long as the quality is there, which it obviously is with those cables you just made. Bravo!
I think 50 dollars / meter is still expensive for a speaker cable. I use ProCab Reference, which is actually pro audio stuff and only about 4 bucks / meter (most pro audio cables are significantly cheaper than audiophile cables, speaker cables in particular) - it works very well.
Especially in combination with the easy to use Neutrik SpeakON connectors it makes a very sturdy cable and provides a very reliable connection that's even suitable for 'on the road' applications!
I have a reel containing that type of cable of about 30 meters laying around somewhere, so I can cut off the right length whenever I need to.
Btw, according to Fat Rat, solid core speaker cables are the best - knowing him, he'd probably bash this video 😜
This bad cable took me more than 2 hours to craft, it had a monster insulation I would say, but having fun and worth of doing so.😁
Caro Aldo
I followed your suggestions and I'm very happy. In few months a did several upgrades to my speaker cables as you suggest. I started with Ramm Audio Amadeus and finally I got the Neotech NES-3001 for the High Frequency and the Neotech NES-3002 for the Low frequency. AMAZING nothing to compare with the other cable that I owned before (very expensive one - NBS, Nordost, Audioquest). I would like to thank you for your advise. kindly recommended. Don't use the any Silver cable this is my recommendation. Non rispondere a sti ingegneri da tastiera che sono solo capaci a dirti che 1 feet is not 1 meter. Nessuno di loro ha seguito i tuoi preziosi consigli. Questa gente e' da bannare e non degna di ricevere risposta alcuna. GRANDE
Grazie mille Fabrizio! Gentilissimo! Thank you so much Fabrizio for your words. My name is not Aldo, it's another subscriber that likes to call me that way! 😂
Congrats also for taking the Neotech jump! Once you try that, you can't look back! Bravo!
I am just wondering if you can share your experience with Ramm audio amandeus compared to audioquest. I am currently using Audioquest rocket 88 but not very happy with lack of neutrality compared to van den hul i used before. Any idea if it is worth replacing rocket 88 with amandeus ? In your experience with other brands where amandes sits with other popular brands ? Thanks
I hear a lot of people NOT happy about Audioquest. Unfortunately I don't have direct experience so I can't help you, sorry about that.
@@weeragardens I only use AQ Midnight 2 for the bass driver, that's work fine, punchy and airy.
@@anadialog Ramm cables are made in Taiwan, so I wouldn't surprised if they are made by Neotech.
Fantastico done a great job I've done a lot of your things you recommended with great results thank you very much for your Channel
I built this cable according to your specifications in July / August, extremely happy with the result. First tested on my old Onkyo NT-TX747 amplifier, and then switched to my new Hegel H160. This cable did more to the sound than replacing the amplifier ...
A few months later, the sound is the same, but I see that the unprotected copper oxidizes quickly?
Use heatshrink to wrap it up.
might have to give these cables a go. a good of mine recommended some HIFI occ Copper T16x1mm 18 awg cables from Ebay also
Sure! As long as it is using true OCC copper with decent insulation! And not too thin! Resistence goes up!
Going over this old vid as I am looking at sorting out my speaker cables. The big issue I have with all speaker cables is that the live and drain(is that correct? ) cables run next to each other. I want to use two completely separate cables for live and drain. and install them so there is a decent gap(20mm) between each.
If you put some good distance it is undoubtedly better, lowering capacitance a lot but it is difficult and in most cases ugly to look at. Otherwise you can twist them, that also helps (with a good amount of dielectric around each cable).
I'll put my best lps up later. Every single stereo shop I have talked to, I have asked them, if u were on a desert island, which would u pick of these 100 cds, which would you pick as the best sounding cd. Every single stereo shop said that the best of these 1 out of the 100 cds is all 100 of the them. Listed in alphabetical order. 1. Baden Powell- baden plays Vinicius (1973) Spanish, best acoustical guitarist I have ever heard 2. Baden powell-solitude (1971) 3. Don baker_ duckin & Divin (2006) worlds best harmonica 4. bamboo (1971) as clear as flute can get 5. Beatles-love 6. Beatles- revolver Beatles- yellow submarine 7. bud Shank-magical mystery (1971) Absolutely perfect sound, I keep this under beatles, its beatles songs 8. beck-sea change MFSL 92003) much better remaster, the lp goes for $300 9. George benson& jack mcduff (1964) jazz 10. blind faith(1971) Deluxe Edition, the extra cd worth it 11. dave Brubeck-time further out (1961) 12.dave Brubeck-time out (1958) jazz 13. Kenny burrell midnight blue (1961) jazz 14. tracy chapman tracy chapman (1994) this can be on lp, too 15. John Coltrane a love subpreme (1958) jazz !6. John Coltrane-ole (1963) elvin jones drums 17. Ry cooder- a meeting by the river (19990 pure analog, better than the later digital remaster. The remaster is the only one u can get on lp that's great must have cd 18. Keith cooper- sacred dance (2000) strums guitar with both hands 19. Mike cooper-trout steel(1970) great acoustic guitar 20. Cure- disentigration, mixed up, 7 wish cds, not perfect sound 21. the exotic sounds of martin den- primativa (1958) perfect sound 22. willie Dixon-I am the blues. walter Horton on harmonica 23. Dylan- blood on the tracks- not perfect sound (1968) 24. Dylan-hard to handle (1995) not perfect sound 25. Dylan MTV Unplugged (1996) perfect sound 26. Bill frisello with dave Holland & elvin jones (2001) must have for great sound 27. Emmylou harrisspyboy live (1999) dont get this mixed up with plain spyboy. clearest ever heard at all frequencies 28. Michael hedges-oracle (1996) 29. jimi Hendrix-blues new cd of old stuffgreat sound 30. dave Holland-hands (2010) great acoustic guitar 31. the best of HOOKER N HEAT (1971) 32. lightnin' Hopkins- blues hoot (1961) DCCCD remasteranalog steve Hoffman 33. Freddie hubbard-straight lifejazz. George bensen on guitar. This is CBS original, I dont like remaster 34. dave grusin-discovered again (1976) direct to disc, great 35. James gang-rides again(1971) lp is great 36. Jazz at the pawnshop)1979)analog recorded in café in open box for sound 37. J. K. & Co.-suddenly one summer(1968) boy played all guitars 38. Elton john-tumbleweed connection (1971) mick ronson guitar lp is great 39.albert king-I'll play the blues for you (1970) 12 track version 40. Leo kottke 6 & 12 string (!969) 41. Led Zeppelin 3 (1971) lp is better 41. The Maureeny Wishful album (1967) jimiie Page, better than led zed albums 42. Little feat-waiting for Columbus- (1973) perfect sound recorded in cathedral. MFSL analog tube remaster with better tone 43. Nils Lofgren-acoustic live (1998) 44. Antonio Lysy at the Broad-music from argentina (2009) analog recorded. cellos. Great audiophile 45. herbie mann- live at the whiskey a go go (1961) flute, great sound 46. dave Matthews & tim Reynolds-live at luther college (2008) 47. medicine head-new bottles old medicine (1970) 48. Mississippi fred mcdowall- I dont play no rock & roll (1969) black acoustic guitar blues 49. modest mouse-this is a long time (1996)analog recorded 50. van morrison-astral weeks (1968) remaster. one of the finest albums recorded all acoustic in 2 days. acoustic bass is wild 51. Penguin café orchestra- a brief history (1971) 52. Autumn Shuffle-Per af Ugglas (2007) analog recorded, hybrid sacd or xrcd, I like both 53. Quicksilver messenger service-happy trails (1968) 54. Quicksilver messenger service- live at the filmore (1968) 55. quicksilver messenger service-quicksilver messenger service (1968) 56. rolling stones-letit bleed (1969) ry cooder guitar. bob lutz 2002 remaster. a great remaster. sold unmarked in storesas a hybrid cd, as all of stones cds. 57. sonny Rollins-thebridge 91962 jazz just only greaton saxophone 58. Santana1, abraxas, & 3. abraxas on lp is mind blowing, especially the 1st lps. 59. shanti (1971) amazing inside your head mid east recording 60. Horace silver - cape Verdean blues (1964) rudy van gelder 24 bit 2003 remaster.Rudy made his own electronics & was afraid thieves would steal it, he guarded it. 61. Son house-father of the delta blues (1965) black acoustic guitar 62. Jeremy steig-howling for judy91971) blue note, great flute 63. Jeremy steig-wayfaring stranger ( blue note, best flute air I have heard. 64. cat stevens-tea for the tillerman (1971) 65. Steve Stills-super session (1968) 66. taj mahal-live & direct (1975) direct to disc 67. taj mahal - taj mahal (1968) 68. ten years after-recorded live (1971) 69.traffic-welcome to the canteen (1971) I'm crazy on this jazz rock cd. 70. U2- Joshua tree. not perfect sound. 71. the string quartet tribute to U2 Joshua tree (2004) 72. peter walker-rainy day raga (1966) mind blowing India like acoustic guitar 73. war-all day music 74. war-war (1971) worth getting for great 10 minute track 75. jennifer warnes-the hunter 919920 raincoat is better, but I like deep bass on some tracks 76. Jennifer warnes- raincoat the remaster is much better, the MFSL remaster by analog tube remaster has better tone. 77. who- live at leeds (1971) Deluxe Edition, any remaster has better sound 78. who-now & zen (2005) best sound hits version 78.who-quadrophenia (1971) the 2nd remaster 10 years ago has better sound than the bob lutz remaster. fans complained they couldn't find the analog version of tapes. 79. wilco-being there (1999) This sounds analog 80. George Winston-December (1985) 20th anniversary remaster. has a crisper sound hdcd best piano cd made 81. Gretchen yanover-bow & cello black lady beautiful cello tone
I enjoyed watching you make speaker cables I use canare cable
Canare can in no way be close to this one,
Great vid. I enjoyed it very much. Thank you. However, I just pay whatever Audioquest prices are for their best cables. I love them!
I am going to use it for bi-amping with Audioquest hybrid.
Bravo. Hai spiegato molto bene. However as audiophiles, we are an extremely fussy group. No matter on how many times we wash our hands, there will always be a minute amount of oil/debris that will make contact with the bare wires. Solution is to wear latex and powder free vinyl gloves. Please correct me if I'm wrong! Pace a tutti.
Yes, I agree. It is preferable.
Great video. What was the music on the 24:20 mark?
Just youtube's free music
Very cool. I'm going to try building a cable like this. I am going to do it from the cable I'm already using to keep costs under control (van den Hul D-352 speaker cable). Try what a shorter cable with spades will do....
👍
Great video man,how do i split 6 conductors to 4 for the use of bi amping?
Just use this scheme: www.google.com/search?q=ramm+audio+amadeus.biwiring&client=ms-android-samsung-gs-rev1&source=android-browser&prmd=ivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiUyeKJ_e3tAhXG3KQKHT5lBmsQ_AUoAXoECAIQAQ&biw=412&bih=682&dpr=2.63#imgrc=fPvoBfX-hYHlgM
If you are just biwiring, use it this way, if you are bi-amping use the same scheme that is employed on the speaker side.
@@anadialog so if i understand it right,1 conductor for the highs and 2 conductors for the lows.thank you very much
No wait, 3 conductors for each pair of connectors: 2 conductors for one pole and the third goes to the opposite pole. As I said, look at the scheme on the loudspeaker side and use it also on the amp side (if you are bi-amping)
That‘a not what the scheme says…..3 conductors per pole……2 (green and red)and 1 (black) both on minus, which ones for the lows? Black or green/red??
Not to complain because i love your channel and we share the same thoughts/philosopy on hifi gear but didnt you say in part1 to not use shielded speaker cables? This has shielding around each section of conductors. I also have found out about neotech and will be uppgrading my entire cabling to neotech diy. Maybe i choose the little cheaper oyaide occ 5mm2 solid shielded powercable from the fusecentral to the wallsocket because of the length. But in the musicroom I go neo👍 this ramm cable seem to be very affordable compared to the performance.
Great Work!
Indeed and infact I will increase capacitance this way BUT I did not connect the shield so it is much less "present".
Nice video! Did you also try this cable (Amadeus 5 MK2) as single cable for red and black (so 2 cables in stead of one)?
Does it match the neotech 3001 of you do that?
Regards,
Tini
Hello my Dear! @ ,17:19 you cut the hollow, brown one? i would not do this! This is actually the Storage for recommended Snake Oil ! lol....But, all in all: It´s a nice Tonearm-Cable! hehe
Thanks, I will be trying these. On their web site, I was unable to figure out if the wires were twisted inside the cables. I assume that they tested the inductance and added twists if needed though.
They were just spirally turning around the hollow brown tube for air insulation, this can somehow reduce skin-effect I think.
Are you sure it does not matter which colours to combine in red and black? In the technical video, you explained that you can reduce the magenetic field (induction) by twisting the wires. So I'm thinking maybe alternate + and - wires that are laid out around the empty brown wire? E.g. combine green, yellow and black in one channel and the rest in the other?
I am not sure I am understanding your point, I thought I did that...
@@anadialog You choose to combine 3 adjecent wires, as that is the most easy to get a neat combinatioin. But what I am thinking about is the question what combination would make for the smallest magnetic field. As twisting + around - reduced the magnetic field, then probably alternating adjecent + and - in the layout of the cable also reduces the magnetic field. Downside is that it would take a bit more effort (or strip a bit more cable) to then twist the 3 (non adjecent) strands into 1. Of course, this is all theoretical. It remains to be seen if any of this would give any audible result :-).
Great stuff as always. Even at US prices it's still well below a cable of equal quality from any of the various companies. I may sell my cables and make these. Make first sell second actually!
Give us a feedback if you do!
Been using Oyaide for years have you tried there usb cable bloody ripper mate.
I love the quality and great price of Oyaide! I have also made a dedicated video on their pro series: th-cam.com/video/K5tFrlCvn3o/w-d-xo.html
what were the cable splitter collar parts called that you used? Do you have a link or product code for them?
Here it is: www.rammaudio.com/acc.html
By any chance you have tried Ramm Audio Elite8 interconnect cables ?
I haven't!
Thanks for yet another great video! When connecting RME ADI-2 PRO FS R to two Genelec 8320A, what XLR cables should I use? Shielded vs unshielded vs filtered? Silver vs copper? OFC vs OCC? Etc... What is your recommendation for optimal reference grade performance for mastering?
With XLR things are better! Shielding isn't very important due to the balanced design. I would go with OCC copper if possible. Here is a recent video I made on the topic: th-cam.com/video/y5h_Qa6A4IU/w-d-xo.html
Also, there is a 7th version out there sold at cheaper price, is it a upgrade or cost down version？
Thanks! Beautiful cables!!! Do you have a recommendation for a US source? Seems direct from RAMM model is different and price is $50 /foot!
You are right! I did not notice this. Sorry about that. It's incredible that in Europe the price is 1/3! I am going to contact the company and investigate.
ANA[DIA]LOG Thanks!
I was going to give this a try and I went to the US website and I was like??? damn This is going to cost me 800 dollars in cable alone HAHAHA 16 feet x 50 ouch.
I contacted RAMM Audio and they told me it was a mistake. Now the price on their website is 50$ for 1 metre (3.2ft)!
ANA[DIA]LOG Thanks! 😀🙏You changed world! 🙏😀Now please call 202-456-1414 (The White House) and fix the one there. Haha! In all seriousness thank you very much!
Do you have recommendations or a video on how I can DIY Bi-Wire speaker cables using the Ramm Audio cable?
The Amadeus is perfect for bi-wiring. Just follow this scheme: www.google.com/search?q=ramm+audio+amadeus+biwire&client=ms-android-samsung-gs-rev1&source=android-browser&prmd=imvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi85pvHy4TuAhVIasAKHWSoDXoQ_AUoAXoECAMQAQ&biw=412&bih=682&dpr=2.63#imgrc=fPvoBfX-hYHlgM
Thanks a lot for the good video. Can i ask where you got those cable splitters from ? I didn`t find those ones on the homepage of Ramm audio.
I got them here: www.audioselection.it/product.php~idx~~~3451~~Splitter+RAMM+Audio+D5~.html
Right here: th-cam.com/video/2rjOdEuFe88/w-d-xo.html
why didnt you use copper spades that are crimped and then soldered, surly that would be the best option for these cables ??? ps lovely cables i may treat my self :)
good vid
Usually crimped spades are not high quality and I wanted to use the ones from Ramm, which are very good. I do agree that a true crimp is a better connection.
@@anadialog
thank you for your great channel. i have researched and found that as contact pressure increases resistance decreases(there is a formula) and then soldering the joint holds everything in place and stops oxidation of the joint. in my opinion there is nothing better than crimp&solder, but i understand your reservations regarding getting hold of good quality copper spades.
For all of the expense going towards wire with supposed benefit from continuous crystals, those spade plug screw joints don't seem to provide remotely the same quality of continuity. The set screws will only press the wires into the housing at two spots and the screw will likely act like a wedge to spread the wires apart rather that hold them together. A simple crimp, by contrast, is created with so much force that it effectively cold welds the strands of wires together and creates a 360 degree joint between the two metals.
Yes, I agree a true crimp should be better but I wanted to use the Ramm products throughout and see the results and for now I must admit thatbI am very pleased. For the record the spades have 3 screws to fix the cable.
Valid point, but unless the connection is loose or compramised in another way, your never going to hear the difference,, can you imagine doing a blind test,, trying to ID, the difference in sound between spades and banannas,, 😂
Thanks! Great information but one question if you don't mind. My Polk R700 speakers have separate binding posts on the back one to the woofers and one to the tweeters. They come bridged together but they say running a separate wire from the amplifier to the binding posts are better than using the bridge they give you. You can bi-amp but I'm not doing that. Should I use two separate wires to each speaker from each of my mono amps? Also, since this video is from 2020 would you change anything you recommended here?
Looks like you answered my question at 16:52 in the video! However would still like your opinion as to whether there is an advantage of this bi-wiring.
Absolutely yes! When possible try to bi-wire. I had a pair of ATC and after removing the jumpers they finally started to sing, even if I wasn't bi-amping either. For the quality/peice ratio I still recommend these. Clearly something with PTFE (teflon) would be better, like the Neotech. In fact now I have those, which are certainly better but not day and night difference.
@@anadialog Just great info always. Going to order the Cable and parts today! Now I have two new hobbies, watching your channel; and building cables!!👍
@@DrAlanWeinstein give us some feedback if you want, the good and the bad, no problem!
How do you know which direction the cable goes after covering up the sheathing? I didn't see you mark the amp end?
On the side of the speaker I added the RAMM metal splitter. On the amp side there is nothing.
17:35 Can I swap the yello and white? Like, White Red Blue and Black Green Yello? as oppose to your Yello Red Blue and Black Green White?
If you bi wire, your going to have 2 wires together for one post and only one wire for the other post right? I assume you keep the combined two as positive (for example) for both right and left?
Here is the diagram: images.app.goo.gl/SMuXKjeqtzL52MC39
Hi. This cable looks good and sophisticated, I was going to buy but I stumble upon a neotech nemos 3080 with occ solid ectangular conductors, about the same price, not so sophisticated build though, simple made, but has Teflon insulation. Have you tried it? What's your opinion on this?
Neotech is always the best. I have made a pair of interconnects with the Nemo 3080 for my Telefunken M15. Its an amazing cable. Maybe the gauge is a little too small. Larger cables as I have explained in part 1 of the video are greatly beneficial.
@@anadialog so you have this cable. Great. Do you still think is not thick enough for my Focal Sopra1's and my Amp is 90w per channel.
@@dimitrispanayides6912 how long do the cables need to be?
@@anadialog 2,5m each
Other thing is, you said in part one video," we don't need shielding" , but Amadeus has one, could you comment on this?
Well done
and now there's something even better, OCC single Crystal silver and copper rectangular wire, outperforms the round wire significantly, their top of the line cable is called Sahara for the copper and Amazon for the silver.
I have those. They came out a few years ago. Very good but nothing revolutionary IMO.
What do you think of Cardas cables?
Good vid, but there's no benefit to splitting the signal path with lengths under 3 meters, you'll also get a stronger signal from a single conductor of equal properties.
Hi. I am Bi-amping a set of JBL Everest DD67000 speaker using 2 McIntosh MC901 amps. This amp consists of a 600 watt solid state amp and a 300 watt tube amp in one chassis. Should I build 2 separate cables for each speaker?
Nice! Yes, that would be best to completely separate the signals!
@@anadialog Thanks you! Spoke to Rudy at Ramm today and I am going cable from those guys. He spoke very highly of you!!
Cool! Give us some feedback after burn-in!
Just for the record, I want to underline that I am not earning anything by recommending their products, they're just good and I like to share that! No affiliation!
Hi Excellent video thanks. I have speakers that are tri wired and was wondering if I can use just use 1 pair of wires to go to each terminal on the speakers or will I need to run 2 of these cables and make one biwired and the other the same as you made in your video? Thanks in advance.
Yes, you can use 3 separate wires the problem is usually to connect all three of them at the amp side. In any case the Ramm cables has enough wires to do a tri-wire connection if you like. Just use two cables for each input on the loudspeaker side!
@@anadialog Hi Thanks so much for your quick reply. I will make some speaker cables and provide some feed back on how they perform compared to my current cables. Please be patient as it may take a while to get sorted as I live in New Zealand.
@@kevinironside3624 that would be great! Thanks!
Question. Why don't you use crimp tip before you put it into the spades?
Crimping is good when wires are cropped together with the connector. In this case it’s better to twist and insert to leave the surfaces nice and shiny.
Have you tried Neotech rectangular core occ cables?
I have two of them, occ copper and occ silver. They are excellent.
Good job u inspired me
What is the total cost of this build as compared to a cable of similar quality from say, Audioquest ?
I used 5 m of cable (250€) plus 8 spades both by Ramm (110€), total 360€. Audioquest, if I don't go wrong, does not have OCC copper speaker cables, only OFC (long grain is just a more pure OFC).
hello, can i do this as a balance xlr speaker cable also?
Of course!
Thanks nice video
Greeting
Do you know by any chance the inductance and capacitance of the cable
Thanks in advance
Unfortunately I don't. The brand sadly doesn't report that.
To keep the same resistance is it overkill to do 2 Ramm cable per side for Bi-Wire? Maybe depends on length.
If we are talking below 5m I wouldn't bother.
Hi! Thanks for video. Regarding Bi-Wire, these split into 2 pairs of 2 conductors and 2 pairs of 1 conductor. Are there concerns in this for the single conductor lead? It looks in the graphic that single conductor is routed to highs and double conductor to lows.
Yes, on the side of the amp you create a pair of wires made up of 3 wires each. On the loudspeakers side, you create 4 wires, a pair of two and a pair of single wires. Here you can see the scheme: www.audiophonics.fr/img/cms/Images/Produits/12K/12202/Amadeus5-1.jpg
@@anadialog Thanks! Any expectation of perceivable loss on the single conductor connections? E.G. vs a cable with 8 conductors.
I don't know but clearly it would be better to have the same "amount of copper" for each connector.
@@anadialog yes, thanks! That is also what I was thinking. Enjoy your day!
Banana plugs actually have more surface area than spade connectors so technically banana plugs actually will get you a more solid connection. If you want to be scientifically technical.
Not really. Spades have full contact, bananas only in the center or where they enlarge. That's a small portion.
I can't understand the deal about having 3 same separated cables if at the end they going to be joined together. ¿?
Its very simple, the main reason is resistance, but not only. Check the first part I have explained why it is important to have the right gauge otherwise you will have issues if they are too think, or other issues is they are too thin.
@@anadialog ok. Got it! Thanks for the quick answer
If the 12 gauge is too thick for my binding posts, should i peel back some strands backwards against the wire and add the shrink wrap tubing over these strands to cover them up ? Would this be okay ??
Sure! The important is that they maintain their contact.
@@anadialog Hi, and thank you for the answer, but im afraid my post wasnt clear as to bending the excess wire back. The plastic is cut, exposing the copper wires. Are the wires i am bending backward bent over the exposed copper, or are they bent over the plastic tubing surrounding the wire, and then, i add the tubing that shrinks, leaving only what i need for the binding post ? Sorry about being anal !
@@skyblinked Just cut off the strands that keep you from inserting the wire. Heat shrink only if you care about the look.
...or simply use quality pin connectors like Nakamichi! This is a good solution for all vintage amps.
@@StewartMarkley thanks, good advice !
What are the metal beauty neck called do you have a part number thanks
What do you mean?
So once you're done what kind of gauge does that make 9 awg ?
It makes two wires 11AWG each.
hi, any different between amadeus 7?
because 7 more cheaper.
I think the insulation I worse...
You say that soldering is bad. I can understand why, but when soldering is good and when is it bad? Do soldering a crossover is bad for the sound quality?
Soldiering is always bad because it creates signal loss also because of the different electrical properties. A good cold mechanical crimp of joint is always better.
@@anadialog what about the speaker drivers? Many people say that soldering is better than the clamp connectors
@@andreimj for a definitive answer we would need some scientific tests. For now we only have opinions. Mine, is that less is better.
Wow! Great video. It is $50/ft in the US and you paid ~45 Euro per meter.?
Yes i noticed that too! Is there possibly another place to buy at a lower cost. Also seems in us the model has a different name.
Yes!
Check the video description I added some places for the US and Europe!
Still 50/ft from the US source you listed. Thanks though
ANA[DIA]LOG Thank you! Saw it!
Is it suitable for Bi-amping？
It has enough wires to that as well as bi-wiring
@@anadialog I used DNM solid core (silver ribbon structure wire )for the tweeter, and AQ Midnight 2 for the low frequency drivers all terminated with WBT banana plugs to a LS3 /5A loudspeaker. However, I move my amp location recently, the cables are not long enough, so I would like to give this cable a try. I would try two wires for the high, and four for the low, the whole cable first. Then try two wires for the high + AQ Midnight for the low, and the last is to try whole six wires for the high + AQ for the low to see which one is better.😊
intresting video. Thank you. But I can confirm that the signal direction is total BS ;-)
The electrons will flow in either direction???
Aldo I made a mistake on the date. 1989 sorry about that
sshite,Aldo,hehe
I doubt that those spades are really of high quality.
First of all, they seem to be made of some sort of brass and have smooth gold plating (with a nickel base) thus are most likely having the hard serfice. That would prevent them from making the best possible contact with the binding posts. IMHO spade connectors have to be made of soft copper with direct gold or silver plating. In that case spade material conforms to the binding post surface imperfections and forms air-tight solid connection.
And second, such screw connection could not provide any good quality contact for the multistrand wires. A good spade should have either criming type connection or at least some gold/silver plated copper crim-on ferrule should be used between any stranded wire and spade's clamping screw .
Are you joking? I only use prime components. The spades have a double coating of gold and they are made out of pure copper. I soft connector is generally not a good idea for spades because you indent the surface when locking them. Here is the site of the manufacturer: aecoustics.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=184
@@anadialog Thank you for the information. If we trust manufacturer's claims about the material and direct plating then these connectors are in fact better than I thought. My mistake.
However I still insist that only spades with a soft surface can make a good reliable contact. Hard spades are the reason why many people including Gene DellaSala from "Audioholics.com" falsely believe that banana plugs always make better connections than spades.
Air tubes are not technology. Technology has circuit boards inside of the device.
Not really, the word itself explains it: technology is composed by the Greek word tekne, art, work and loghia, study, explanation...technological research was done to reach that conclusion. Doesn't have to be electrical....I think you are confused with electronic.
I use & insist upon solid core cable.
I love solid core! Unfortunately it's against the law in some countries like Germany plus it's not my first choice when my wires need ro make curves.
First
Qorax
Man, you love being first, huh? Haha! Ya know I’m just kiddin’ with you! 😜
I’m surprised Fat Rat didn’t try to beat ya on this one! LOL
@@NickP333 Hahaha Hi Nick, good to see you again!
Yeah I like TH-cam traditions and I'm subscribed to all the good hifi channels like this one! 👌
I don't know if Rattus also knows this channel, but yeah... he probably does, since he seems to be an integral part of the TH-cam hifi community, just like me and you 😉
We'll probably hear more of him by the time it's daytime in Australia, because that's where he lives (I'm Dutch, GMT+1 here).
Qorax
Hahaha! I’m. sure Rat knows about this channel too. I love the TH-cam HiFi / VC family. There’s always the regulars, and it’s even cooler that we’re from all over the world. With the 3 of us we’ve got The Netherlands, Australia, and I’m in the US.
I’m sure we’ll all meet up somewhere else soon. Haha! 😂🎶🔊✌️🎵🥳
@@NickP333 US? oh lol I'd think you were Italian because of the Pantazi surname, sounds Italian to me 😜
ma sei italiano?
I see read people ☺☺😅😅😴
I think you should check your math! At 50 us dollars per foot it would equate to 145 euros per meter not the 45 euros you claim. Are we talking apples to apples?
I think you did not watch carefully! At 12:06 I clearly wrote on the screen the 1m / 3.2ft, that is one meter equals three point two feet (not 1 foot) is around 50$ and in Europe roughly 45/50€.
I do see now that on the Ramm audio store the price is 50$ per foot (perhaps you were referring to that) while in Europe we spend much much less! 50€ for 3 feet! Absurd!
I contacted RAMM Audio and they told me it was a mistake. Now the price on their website is 50$ for 1 metre (3.2ft)!
Thanks for the time you took to look into this. Now it makes sense. Otherwise it was cheaper to buy in Europe and ship back to USA
;-)
Where are you? did you give up? Furthermore if dielectrics burn in then the capacitor is damaged. If you mean electrolytic capacitors they have to be formated. The dielectrics of it is aluminium oxyde. The higher the capacity, the thiner the oxyde film and even the lower the voltage. If you are using electrolytic capacitors in your audio path you'll get some bad and inconstant results because their capacity tolerance is normall -50/+100 %. Precision elko's are a bit better. Polycarbonate and especially PTFE are far better and lasting over years without degrading. Tell wich audio engineers are talking such bullshit. I've studied electronics engineer decades ago and be specialised in audio recording and playback on STUDER tapemachines if you know them. Even I devloped Hi class audio speakers with precision frequency range and cabling inside. I know very well what I'm talking about.
Eleven godge? Wth?
I am Italian so I mispronounce several words, sorry about that. I did write the correct word in the video.
@@anadialog oh wow ok - I honestly thought English was your first language! So it’s MY mistake lol
Thanks. I am actually 50% USA but I was born and grew up in Italy so it's my second language, nevertheless I make several mistakes.
@@anadialog oh right that’s interesting :-D
So much bs.
Explain why. I see a lot of prejudice in your comments.
The arrows showing the direction on the cables jacket is for manufacturing purposes only. The arrows have absolutely nothing to do with electricity flow. Electricity flows 100% identical through both ends of the cable. There is no right or wrong way to connect the cable. Only a very picky individual who calls themselves an " Audiophile" would even say such things. Remember people, Audiophile and Pedophile are very close. One just means they'll do anything and everything mentally and physically to obtain the sound quality they feel if perfection to them. Key word " Them". I say that because audio is subjective because everyone has different hearing. Most audiophiles claim to hear " Soundstage" when Soundstage was created to justify an audiophiles mental health issues of a created false reality.
I think your comment is out of place. In any case, you are completely wrong. Arrows indicate on which side the shield is connected. No mumbo jumbo, just solid engineering my biased viewer.
Indents, really, what kind of snake oil engineering is that? Any AES paper on those. Also directional cables? As you can tell the electricity where to go by inverting the cable. wow
Since you clearly don’t know why cables are directional (makes me wonder if the rest) I will explain it to you. Cables are directional because the shield is connected only on one side. Simple simple science.
@@anadialog jajaja really tell that to my car battery or to my microwave. No it's that simple the shield can't do anything either as it's not in the path. Indents!!! jajaj and then you twist the ends creating multiple indents jajaj Simple science too? You are a fluke, just like the ones that use pretty meaningless words when describing gear.
Great use of words. I just can’t compete with your level of speech and arguments. Thanks for enlightening us!
@@anadialog jajaja sure, my argument remains.
Really bad twisting and construction....
Fortunately the sonics are great! ;-)
Again a huge BS story. Go and buy a bit thick stranded twin cable (which has a marker on one side). Strip the cable, and do not touch the copper. As long as it's stays around 2 x 4 to 5 meter, you have a perfect connection. As when one doesn't uses plugs, you have a perfect connection! Every other solution is inferior. Total cost 8 Euro! Nothing, but nothing will beat this.
Which high quality speaker cables have you tried?
You're talking alot of bullshit. Burn in of speaker cables!! LOL!! What do you want to burn in? The electrons do not travel in the cable they only shaking because it's AC. So there is no preference of the direction. Did you ever heard about the skin effect? Apparently not. All electric cables are OFC, because it's electrolytic copper.
It's always funny to watch your videos because it's religion and esoteric. Once another guy like you want to persuade me that a vinyl record has e frequency range up to 70 KHz. LOL!
As I said in the video, and several other audio engineers out there, mainly dielectrics need burn-in/brake-in.
I mentioned skin effect. I am afraid that you have a serious ear problem or just a severe attention deficiency.
Very few electric cables are OFC even your milkman knows that. It is a very expensive procedure as well as the final copper produced. OCC copper, that is the subject of the video, again please pay attention, is by far superior to all and even more expensive.
Vinyl frequency range up to 70Khz? Yes, he was wrong. It is actually 122Khz: www.positive-feedback.com/Issue2/mastering.htm
This is called proof, not babbeling around with no evidence.
Now that we have filled up your lack of knowledge we can all move on and please next time take some notes.
@@anadialog Sorry you are a noob. What's so special in your experiments? It's amateur not professional. What do you think did I learn decades ago? You simply have no clue, sorry about.
@@anadialog Sorry you don't have no clue what's going on. You are talking alot of bullshit. Your explanations are completely wrong. You cannot check out cables in this way. Another proof that you are a poor amateur is if you say that vinyl has 122 KHz max frequency.. LOL!!! These guys in the video link are just funny clowns. Their experiment has interferencies and they thougt that they have cut 122 KHz onto vinyl with 33 rpm. That's physically impossible !!! With 33 rpm you'll get a speed of about 35 cm/s wich gives you at 122 KHz a wavelenght of only 283 nano meter !! No mechanical system in this world is able to read this out, especially not from vinyl because you never can cut such micro structures. Even no diamond is small enough and it's inertia is far to big. I don't want to mention the acceleration wich would be the result. You see you are a poor noob. Don't beleive all what's coming on from other poeple if you are unable to proof it by yourself.
A beautiful aesthetic upgrade but so much nonsense and bs regarding sound characteristics. Reminds me of the flat earther movement....
Lovely job none the less.