Non preoccuparti di chi critica senza averlo provato. Ho trovato ad un prezzo inferiore i WBT (coppia a 98€ ) e ho assemblato questo cavo. Veramente ottimo e superiore al Nordost Blue Heaven che avevo. Grazie del video - Translation: Don't worry about those who criticize without having tried it. I found the WBTs at a lower price (pair for €98) and I assembled this cable. Really excellent and better to the Nordost Blue Heaven I had. Thanks for the video
After you make the solder joint, clean it thoroughly with a clean toothbrush and some IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) to remove all traces of flux. Solder joints degrade over time due to remaining un-burnt flux residue. Although flux is essential to clean the joint as the solder flows while under heat... it is corrosive and it will eat away at the solder joint over time. It is possible to buy a "no-clean flux" but that is a liquid flux and needs to be applied separately with a paint brush prior to flowing the joint with solder. Also it needs to be used in conjunction with flux free silver solder. But this is only essential for production environments to reduce time consuming operations like cleaning and drying time. A good clean solder joint should be good for 25 years. Good video anyhow. Nice to see you tin everything first. Like a pro!
@@anadialog Not a big problem when you only have a few cables. Just imagine putting together a recording studio and you have to make 24 or 48 cables. It could be a big problem 10 years down the line when they all start failing around the same time and you have a diary full of bookings.
I ordered a set of 4 of these connectors and a meter of the cable; to make 2 short coax cables that I need in my system - one for the streamer and one for the CD transport. I have been using a Monolith cable - that is silver coated on the copper center conductor. I have tried 4 other low cost cable (they are all a bit more than the Monolith) and none of them have anywhere the sound quality. So, I am hoping that this cable is even better than the Monolith. It is ~$15 vs ~$172. By the way - I can highly recommend the Iso-Braid AC cable from Pine Tree Audio, here in the US. They are $65 for 3' and about $10 more per additional foot. They sound *stunning*. NOTHING short of an amazing new amp or DAC has made anywhere as much of an improvement in my system, as using these Iso-Braid AC power cables. It took me over 30 years to try an AC cable swap - though for much of that time, my equipment had non-detachable power cords - and I was a very big *skeptic*. *I wasted over 30 years on what I now know was totally mediocre sound!*
If you are streaming, invest $40 in this network switch... Amazon has them in stock. NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Plus Switch (GS108Ev3) I installed this switch into my network and never said a word to anyone. This switch only serves my little AV corner in the living room. There is a Roku Ultra and BuzzTV android box getting signal via this switch, HDMI out to the TV. My 80 yo mother walked into the room and thought I had bought a new TV and sound bar... The difference in sound and picture quality was that dramatic. Spend the $40, if it does nothing, send it back for a refund. It is even better with an upgraded 12v power supply.
I ended up paying to have the two cables assembled - they did them both for $50, and used silver solder. THEY SOUND FANTASTIC! I was using silver plated coax, that sounded better than the 4 other coax cables I tried - but these pure silver cables sound significantly better, still!
Excellent tutorial, many years ago I made some interconnect cables, however today there are more resources and tools to make them with ease and some skill. I will be following your steps, thanks for the lesson. Cheers...
Thanks for the Video. Since 2 Years I use exact this Neotech-Cable with BNC-Platinium Connectors by Furutech. Great sound. It connects my Reclocker Mutec MC 3plus USB and the McIntosh-Pre/DAC MHA 150. A friend of mine did the DiY-Work for me (thanks, Witold).
i made my own coaxial cable too; but i used solid twin copper electrical cable with a couple of connectors to go with it. At least both of the cables are solid. I’m not overly keen on stranded wire. i use this type of wire ( solid copper wire) for speaker cables too. Coaxial cables are noisy, because there is a current flowing through the wire itself. But the sound quality is still retained; with plenty of detail. Monday am 15th May 2023. 🏴 Southampton England
I have done the same cable but with EIT pługs. It sounds very good. Recently I tried the Viablue silver digital cable. I was shocked how much it was better than the Neotech.
I was searching for a good usb cable to go up from Supra excalibur, I'd never heard of Neotech before, so I tried their silver occ usb cable. Now after a few hours of break-in, I'm very impressed, my Innuos Zen connected to Audiogram dac jumped to another level. Thanks for introducing me to Neotech
I congratulate you for your videos on cabling. So many reviewers stay away from this "controversial" topic because they don't want to upset some inexperienced, ignorant or biased people don't believe that cables make a difference. I have a couple thoughts to consider for the cable denier. Cardas, Audioquest, Kimber etc have sold hundreds of thousands of cables to tens of thousands of audiophiles and their business thrive after almost fifty years. Are all these customers wrong considering that, a good many who have far superior systems and probably hearing?. These same cable deniers will anxiously await the next product review from their favorite reviewer who uses custom cables. They don't believe in cables but the fact that their favorite reviewer believes in them and has carefully chosen custom cables for their system seems to escape them. Some people don't have a system that is sufficiently revealing so differences in cables become obvious. Also, this hobby is mostly pursued by men and many men pursue pastimes and occupations that have negative effects on their hearing, like they serve in the military, play with automobiles, motorcycles, power tools, firearms and other devices guaranteed to diminish unprotected hearing. If you cant hear the difference, get your hearing checked. Finally, the cost is a factor. Profit margins in the cable business are generous and some cables are very expensive with dubious results, that doesn't mean that cables do not make a difference and if people will put aside their biases and do some objective listening they may improve the sound of their systems for a reasonable cost. I have a suggestion for people wishing to tackle cables with minimal risk and cost. You can get cables from "Worlds Best Cables" on Amazon for reasonable prices with a no risk 30 day return. WBC has reasonably priced cables made from Mogami, Gotham and Canare products Give it a try. What do you have to lose?
That's great and everyone should build their own cable. I built mine from a standard 75 ohm TV cable (white) which is perfect for this use ,it is wideband and Easley enough for this application. The only (not big) drawback is that it is not as flexible as other cables, it is so cheap and works at least as good if not better than other cables ( compared it to quite expensive cable and there wasn't any difference between them sound Wise)
Great video, good work indeed. I've been making cables for over 30 years and agree you can make fabulous cables for a fraction of the price and lets not forget the marketing hype 'BS' associated with it that most of the price of goes on. I will say one thing though, WBT connectors have got to be one of the most user unfriendly, clunky and a bit pricey. There are easier, simpler and cheaper ones out there. But great video. Thanks
@@r423fplip I am about to change your world....ready? Digital travels on an analog signal (voltage)! Hence your 1s and 0s are subject to the same issues. Boom!
@@devilspin6649 it not was "alco plug Klei" it was "also plug Klei" i put the most expensive Klei : Klei Perfect 22 Harmony Plug. It is good for digital cables(75 ohms) For me Klei(top plug) is more natural, analog, engaging sounding then WBT plug from silver
Measurements on short cables are nonsense. Only dielectrics have a sensible impact. Capacitance also have an effect but mainly on weak signals like tape heads and phono cartridges.
Sei l'italiano che parla inglese meglio di tutti so TH-cam (tranne me, ma io tra le altre cose sono professore d'inglese e non vale). Bravo! Davvero! Complimenti per i tuoi video, sempre molto informativi. Personalmente credo che non sia necessario comprare cavi così costosi (qui in Brasile dove abito io non li trovo) e comunque ho fatto degli RCA con cavo microfonico che vanno benissimo. Ciaone
U made this a semi balanced digital interlink right? Planning on making myself one of those. Already made a nice pair of regular interlinks with that neotech 3004 cable :)
I'm sorry to be a cable bore but it was into it deeply and of course, no one likes my opinions like I do. I agree with your observations about materials. I only used the best available at the time. Six nines pure copper and pure silver wire. Silver plated copper wire always was harsh and fatiguing in he long run except on digital where it seemed to work okay. I also used teflon coating dielectric. I didnt care for gold plated plugs that used ferrous nickel as a binder for the gold plating. I used a plug that used a silver undercoating to bind the silver to the brass or bronze plug. Without the binder gold flakes off. I often used Cardas SLVR RCA plugs because they were made of silver plate directly on to the brass or bronze plug No gold plating. At the time I thought Rhodium killed too much information. Maybe food for an excessively bright cable but I didnt use it. I also experimented with cryogenically treating copper condors with some success. At the time there was a solder called Wonder Solder sold by an audio reviewer. I have no idea what it contains but it was an excellent solder natural and reviewing without the brightness of silver solder or the dullness of standard Kester solder. The important things about cables is they are a little system unto themselves and evert individual piece counts. You can change conductor, dialectic, connector and solder to tailor the sound you want. I sold or gave away all my cable in the 90s. Ironically, I recently I bought back a pair of one of my best interconnects on Ebay and I was gratified to hear that they still sounded as good or better than what I had in my system at the time. New is not always better .
i most certainly would love, to have… solid silver and a pure gold audio cables… laid out in front of me right now, to connect up…. and have a listen, and see if it does make any difference. Much more detail perhaps; without having to mess about with the built in graphic equaliser. Solid Gold or silver speaker cables too… yes that would be great! That’s assuming that you can get hold of…. any of these cables in the 1st place. Might cost a pretty packet too? i have, 2 sets of speakers. One set is the Wharfadale 9.1 and the other is a pair of Moukey… 3 way. i tested them both using my solid electrical copper speaker wires ( not too long) but thicker than satellite cable. and I’m using a made up twin solid copper coaxial cable. There is a noticeable sound difference In between the 2 sets of speakers. The Wharfadale came out on top. Much clearer. Slightly more detail. Friday am 19th May 2023. Southampton England 🏴
I prefer factory cables. Guido, for that ~210 eur you have many many choices. I would recommend QED cables at first, but there are tons of Audioquest. There are also silver-plated ones. Not worse. I bet. This is not cheap, this is rather almost expensive though I know there are much more expensive options out there. But making DIY cables for the price of a great factory one...
Yes, I have recommended much cheaper solutions, you're right, but remember that this is all silver and that in terms of factory cables are extremely expensive
@@anadialog Guido, the signal is carried on the surface of the cable. It does not matter if the core is silver or copper. I would kindly compare it to factory cables. Did you may do that?
@@7AccordHomeStudio hi there, nope that is a misconception. Signal travels near the surface not exclusively ON the surface. The higher the frequency the closer to the edge, that is in fact where we have the skin effect, with very high frequencies while audio is more in depth.
The 2001 is a triaxial. I only connect the outer shield to the source end. The distance between inner "shield" and the center conductor is where the 75 ohm relationship is created. Also I do not see how the 75 ohm is maintained in the connector you are using. The distance between the conductors looks to be changed. I use a hot knife to cut insulation, super easy. Also use the hot knife to melt the decorative cover into the insulation where it will be inside the connector so no shrink is needed. I modify Switchcraft 3502AAU connectors so that the cable can be butted up to right where the RCA takes shape. There is only about 1/32" at each end of the cable where the conductors are not in their original coaxial arrangement.
In the video you can clearly see that I connect only the outer shield. In the connector the distance is created by the connector itself which is a 75 ohm silver connector designed for coaxial cable. I think all this is very clearly expressed in the video.
@@anadialog From the Sonic Craft website where I have purchased. "Our recommendation is to terminate the inner braid at both ends, and the outer braid at the source." I THINK YOUR CABLE STRIPPER CUT OFF THE OUTER BRAID !. Look at the diagram in your video, there are TWO BRAIDS. You say in the video "Repeat on the other side". You are not supposed to do the same thing on each side. You also say "this is the first one I have made." I have made about 50 of them. I am giving you my feedback as you request because I make these types of cables. I have tried many connectors. I don't doubt you are happy with your cable. I believe you could be even happier.
If you connect the shield at both ends then its no longer a shield. You have two grounds. The cable you are using has a live , ground and dedicated shield thats to be terminated at the source end. This is why many cables are directional.
@@stephens2r338 That is exactly what I said. The Neotech 2001 is a triaxial construction. The largest diameter braid is the shield. and is connected at the source end only. In the video this is cut off at both ends with the wire stripping tool and I don't think the guy in the video is even aware that it is there. He even says the stripper tool doesn't fit properly. The next braid is the negative and is connected at both ends. Then the center conductor is the positive. You can see the 2 braids on the cable diagram presented in the video. Most all 75 ohm cables are coaxial and there is only one braid and a center. The braid is often still referred to as a shield, which is why I used quote marks on the word "shield". The whole point of my comments is that the builder was not using the actual shield at all.
Shit, that's were exactly what I were using for years. I use the AECO pure silver connector which are the OEM factory of ETI Bullet plug. Also, did you tried any different if all braid connected to the ground v.s. just connect the inner/outer/all sheild to the source end only ? There are certainly many way to play with this multi-shielding cable.
You better off going with a non-shielded cable for digital signal and trying to get 93 Ohms. Just use some pliers ideally pointed nose and wrap a elastic band around the handle as a clamp to hold your wire or terminal
Why 93ohms? SPDIF is a 75ohm transmission line. It is designed for standard 75ohm coax. Under six feet it won't mater anyway but again why not just use the proper cable?
@@andydelle4509 well 75 is a standard for digital but if you use 93 you should get less ringing smoother response on the top leading edge should sound a bit better analogue more filtering at the high frequency above 10kHz
@@hoobsgroove Where are you getting this information? There is absolutely no benefit to mis-matching an impedance controlled circuit. A mismatch is exactly what causes ringing and reflections. And furthermore, what makes you think less ringing on a digital pulse train relates to less ringing on the decoded analog signal? It simply doesn't work that way. As long as any ringing is less than half the pulse amplitude, it is invisible to the decoder. Any more and you will get clicks and pops due to errors.
I work for a wire termination company here on the US. I enjoyed your video. My question is do you prefer silver over copper? Our connectors are compression connectors so they are much easier to put on but probably not as high quality as what was shown here. Nice work.
Thanks! I can say that silver has that extra quality, especially OCC silver, when designed properly and with excellent insulation BUT they are just too expensive so quality copper is probably the most quality/cost effective!
I've always wondered why no one has tested and posted results of different RCA connectors to see which ones come close to 75 ohms. I have seen a ton of cable measurements but not a single test of the actual connectors. Odd.
Yes, the keep the price down in that video I used non-occ connectors. But at least it was still high quality copper. No, I don't think they would make a big difference only some difference. Nope, no silver on xlr, usually they are quite long, maybe one day...
i honestly don’t know if, it really does make any difference as regards to, using…… either copper, silver, or even Gold… for that matter; when it comes to audio cables, for listening to music. But, i do have that feeling, though… that it probably doesn’t.
It makes a clear difference to anyone with ears. ...When I started to build my own power cables decades ago, I noticed that I could tune the sound of the cables and by proxy my gear by using different plated connectors, gold would sound warmer, silver more detailed, pure copper was always my baseline and usually I preferred gold. I found the same was true of ICs Then I found that certain combinations with certain gear had better synergy. ...As long as you’re having fun. ;-)
Thank you very much for this excellent video, as always. Like you, I make my own modulation and digital cables, using the remarkable NEOTECH cables. I have just changed my amplifier (Willsenton R300, excellent single stage amplifier, 300B tubes not too expensive). My beloved Van Den Hul "The Frist Ultimate" all carbon cable is not suitable here as it is too warm and lacks transparency. I first ordered a NEOTECH NEMOI-3220 RCA stereo copper OCC PTFE cable, but I returned it after a few days because the Van Den Hul is much better. I then decided to review the digital and modulation cables with NEOTECH OCC copper cables, which have some silver plated strands. Please abandon all ideas about silver plated copper, at least with these two references (KLEI PURE22 HARMONY RCA connectors) : RCA modulation : - NEOTECH NEI-3001 MKIII symmetrical UP-OCC (48 euro per meter, another world compared to the already excellent NEOTECH NEI-3004). Here you have to connect the cables two by two and the shield on the source side only) digital RCA : - NEOTECH NEI-3003 MK III UP-OCC silver plated coaxial cable (22 euro per meter). In 45 years of high fidelity, I have NEVER heard such qualities of transparency, harmonic richness, smoothness and naturalness. Incredible! I don't know if the pure silver model are still superior to it, but for my part, I will stay with these ones which fill me completely. Thanks again for all your excellent videos! Love from France.
Thank you for your input! I suspect that the Neotech you sent back maybe wasn't burned-in enough? But it may be that the Van was better, you seem to have experienced enough to understand this! ;-)
2:08 you have difficulty to say pair of scissors because of english :) there is A scissor not a pair :) we call it "makas" not "bir çift makaslar" (a couple of scissors) in turkish :) just noticed I am using scissor all the time :))
How this affects the sound?? the signal is digital, a regular coaxial cable that can be made for less than 5 € will be exaclty the same in quality, i did work on a telecom and our wiring was less than 1€ and top quality for broadband in a quite higer bandwith than SP/DIF, and there's always the option of optical SP/DIF that is just flawless.
@@Nihilist13 yes, i'm aware of that, and this will have an effect on analog transmissions, but SP/DIF is digital so it doesn't matter the quality on the transmission while is inside certain parameters, that's the advantage of digital communications, you have a range of values that will be decoded as correct on the receiver end thus making a perfect reception, there's no advantage on "better" wiring for digital transmission for this and other reasons (checksum, error correction, noise floor).
I wish it was so. As I said in the video digital audio travels on an analog signal (voltage) which is my manybthibgs can go wrong. Ever wondered why coaxial cables for digital has so much shielding plus it is built just like a normal interconnect, because it is always an electromagnetic signal. Time to wake up from the less digital myths. Digital is crammed filled with issues, just like analog!
As, I’ve mentioned in my comment. I’m using solid copper electrical wires for my made up coaxial cable. But there is one million dollar question that i don’t know…… are these cables oxygen free??? (OFC) Tuesday pm 16th May 2023. 🏴 Southampton England
@@anadialog you sure it is genuine. Have you tested it with regards to its oxygen free rating ? Are they 75 ohm ? Are they 100% silver ? Just because it says so on the label, may not be true. If you use a connector that's not 75 ohms, what effect does it have and the dac. Are the connections on a cd player or dac 75 ohms ? They may not be, so what effect might this have ? Just wondering.
The golden rule of audiophile cables: You tell the average audiophile the price of each cable and magically the more expensive one will be the best sounding one.
Don’t know what you are commenting because I am the first (for years now and with much more impact) to claim that you don’t need to spends hundreds of dollars but just look for quality materials and do them yourself
@@anadialog Yes, I know, and I'm not here to disagree with that message! Actually I agree on it 100% and also love my own system to look audiophile on every cable, even for those cables where there is no actual audio fidelity difference.
@@anadialog One video that would be really fun to make and very informative is to go the other way around and just make a very long SPDIF cable using 75 Ohms antenna cable long enough to get audible data errors. You probably need more than 25 feet for that. Then reduce the length until you feel the audio data is coming through reliably and run an A/B blind listening test between this insane cable and any dedicated SPDIF cable (short length), ideally some crazy priced Nordost cable or similar. If you can reliably convince yourself that you actually hear any difference, it would be interesting.
SPDIF Myth Busting: 1) No SPDIF cable is going to make subtle improvements or changes to the decoded audio. Bad cables make clicks and pops or no signal at all. That's the point of digital signal transmission. 2) Exotic cables do not sound different other than above (clicks and pops). Just use plain old 75ohm coax which SPDIF was designed for. 3) You don't need true 75ohm RCA connectors,. At the frequencies involved for AES/SPDIF, the impedance mis-match due connector length is irrelevant. 4) For short runs, like under 4 feet, any plain old audio cable will probably work but I would still use proper 75ohm coax. But again, cable problems result in clicks and pops, not subtle degradation's to the decoded audio.That simply can't happen. 5) Copper wire is not directional period! Some XLR cables may show a direction due PIN 1 being unconnected on one of the ends. but that copper has no ideal direction. ANA[DIA]LOG, What is your background in Electrical Engineering? As for mine, you can look me up on LinkedIn.
1) wrong because digital travels on analog signal. 2) 3) seem to contradict each other 4) Wrong again. Just for a start bad insulation may attenuate the signal (dielectric constant). 5) Cables are directional when the screen is not connected at both ends. Period.
There are two different types of listeners. Those who look at a monitor's and let there fingers do the talking. Then, there are avid listeners who are willing to take the punt.
This is a coaxial cable. Remove the shield and then he only has one conductor and the digital signal would float. It wouldnt work like that. Are you suggesting a simple pair of wires would be better? (For a digital cable is that really true?)
Solid core silver conductors: Good! But it’s shielded, really really bad!! The metal shielding when surrounding the silver conductor will act as a capacitor and it will change the sound. Get rid of the shielding, for God’s sake (wait… I don’t believe in your Gods)
The first thing that’s wrong with the picture on your video is the metal/aluminum shielding for the cable. Shielding robs the essence of the music. Never use shielding on a cable. The best dielectric is air surrounding the metal conductor which is housed in a Teflon tube without any kind of shielding. NO Shielding!!
When I had my cabe company in the 80s and 90s I cam to the same conclusion and never shielded IC or speaker cable. Then I made a digital cable and it was a whole different thing. Digital throw out a lot of electronic garbage that will interfere with other cables and your phono. Even back then when there was not so much digital electronic detritus in the atmosphere shielding was necessary. My compromise however was not to use a heavy metal shield but a metalized poly tape that I wrapped around the cable. It was flexible, shielded the digital noise and had minimal impact on the sound of the cable
@@anadialog Except you didn't use the shield. Your stripper tool cut it off. Most coax the "shield" is one of the conductors. The unique feature of the 2001 is that is has a second braid that can be used like a real shield connected only at the source end.
or, you can buy some van Damme coax for about 10 euros, some fake WBT's for 10 euros, and make a functionally identical cable for a tenth the cost of this nonsense. A digital signal just needs to get cleanly from A to B, digital information doesn't care if it gets sent over silver, and it certainly doesn't know if its going over a genuine WBT. Spending more than 200 euros on a coax cable is madness.
There is no difference between analog and digital signal because digital travels in an analog form, yes, voltage so it is susceptible to the same problems of interference, inductance, capacitance and resistance, plus all the problems coming from the dielectrics. It is much more complex than what we think.
Obviously audio cables costing 100s or 1000s of Dollars are pure snake oil considering the actual material BOM cost is down in a few Dollars. However, don't get fooled also by their marketing justifying those insane cost to think that you need sophisticated cables for everything. SPDIF (Sony/Philips Digital Interconnect Format) is a relatively simple one way binary level data transfer connection using Biphase Mark encoding with a base frequency up to 3MHz. For this reason the cable does exhibit some RF transmission line concerns and needs 75 Ω coax to support it, but because the cable is short and 3MHz is still relatively low frequency, you don't have to worry about data being lost or altered. Your old TV or radio were often also using 75 Ω coax cables btw but up to 100s of times higher frequencies and at much longer cable lengths. So save your money and time, SPDIF connections do not make a difference for your sound quality, as this TH-cam video doesn't look or sound any better using an audiophile power cable to your computer. Period.
@@anadialog Numerous cables in fact, cause I work professionally in audio R&D. As SPDIF is a data transfer interconnect, the goal is to have a reliable transfer of every bit of data. The physical and data link layer of the SPIF protocol is reliable because of the relatively low data frequency and short cable length. You could try to connect a long coax cable (e.g. if you have an old TV cable) and perhaps if you reach a very long length, you would start to hear data reliability issues. So how would such data errors sound like? Loss of details? Change of tonal balance? Change of sound stage? NO, what you will start to hear when the data becomes unreliable is DC jumps in the signal with very nasty effects. Yes, I've heard how that actually sounds like! Until the moment where data becomes unreliable, data is data like it is when you do online banking, watch Netflix or whatever you do with those data. Also jitter is a concern of good PLL design on the DAC side and not the cable btw.
Not true. Apart from the fact that it is a 450$ cable and mine is 190$, but tye Neotech has teflon insulation (Harmonic has polyethylene) and insulation is paramount in performance almost as the conductor. But I agree on OCC silver, if you find that with teflon THEN it will be superior to this one BUT much much more expensive.
@@anadialog The Oyaide FTVS-510 coax has a solid 5N silver conductor and is well regarded. I'm pretty sure the insulation is teflon. They sell them terminated too with RCA's or some very nice BNC's - a much better connector.
All wrong...SPDIF cable as video cable should be crimped not soldered... The RCA connector are made for analog audio. There are at least two manufacturers of RCA connector designed to be crimped and certified for 75 Oms cable. CANARE RCAP-C5F Belden DB59RCAU-25 For wire choose Belden or Canare The recipe is ultra simple, the right impedance (75 Ohms), with the right cable (75 Ohms), the right connector (75 Ohms certified) and NO SOLDERING...crimping only.
Crimping is for the video coaxial cable, this is an audio cable. Nevertheless, if you can find a silver crimpable rca be my guest! Cold joints are always better IMHO.
@@anadialog Crimping video 75 Ohms coaxial cable is for any cable...video or audio. It's just the right way to do it, to get the proper impedance. Following industry standards seems alaways a challenge for audiophile...
@@MrMftech It is the audiophile industry that does not follow the standards because there is no such thing as a true 75 ohm RCA connector. Once you get to the RCA part the distance between the center pin and the collar is incorrect. The crimp on connectors you mention are likely the best you can get. They maintain the 75 ohm right up to where the RCA dimensions take hold. The crimping vs. soldering alone has little to nothing to do with it. Maintaining the proper distance between the conductors is paramount and the crimp style connectors easily do this well. Unfortunately the crimp ons need the correct crimper die for different cable models and I do not think that there is one for the 2001 and I don’t know how you could handle the second braid.
@@MrNeverlift There is a least two RCA connector designed to support 75 Ohms cable. CANARE RCAP-C5F and Belden Double Bubble RG-6 RCA Coax Compression Connector both are crimped. Thre is no soldering when you need to transport high frequency content and crimping provide consistency in the assemblage. Every die is designed for a specific coaxial cable diameter and RCA plugs. Nothing fancy...just common sense and following industry standards.
@@MrMftech Iv'e used them all. As mentioned, I do not believe there is a die set that fits the Neotech 2001. Neotech does not publish a radio guide spec. The 2001 is also a triaxial and the outer most braid should be connected to the source end only. Problematic for a crimp style. The crimp style maintains the 75 ohm coaxial configuration right up to the RCA (no longer 75 ohms). Most solder connectors alter the distance between the conductors way before it turns into RCA. Therefore, crimp ons are inherently a better design for this use. The fact that they don't need solder is a convenience (especially in the field where most RG cables are assembled). The electronics industry (not the audiophile) decided to use RCA ends on SPDIF cables. Look at older DAC's, many had BNC sockets and you would get 75 all the way. You do know is not measured with an ohm meter? You do know if you bend a coax to sharply it degrades the 75 ohms? Go to the Blue Jeans Cable website. They use the RCAP's. They do a good job explaining. Better than I can.
expensive solder !!!!!! :) expensive cable !!!! :) expensive RCA connectors !!!! :) to be fair he is using all the best gear :) . ps i dont like the way rca connectors are now coming with plastic outer casing like the one's from KLE :(
![ANA[DIA]LOG](http://yt3.ggpht.com/50CpmGNilS8aoMlarZVhI_GxRDoZdbj4ZgwCMZXg-Rq2PrEvCytlE6RVyLUrNY-rwE_sAlZ1Zw=s48-c-k-c0x00ffffff-no-rj)
Non preoccuparti di chi critica senza averlo provato. Ho trovato ad un prezzo inferiore i WBT (coppia a 98€ ) e ho assemblato questo cavo. Veramente ottimo e superiore al Nordost Blue Heaven che avevo. Grazie del video - Translation: Don't worry about those who criticize without having tried it. I found the WBTs at a lower price (pair for €98) and I assembled this cable. Really excellent and better to the Nordost Blue Heaven I had. Thanks for the video
After you make the solder joint, clean it thoroughly with a clean toothbrush and some IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) to remove all traces of flux. Solder joints degrade over time due to remaining un-burnt flux residue. Although flux is essential to clean the joint as the solder flows while under heat... it is corrosive and it will eat away at the solder joint over time.
It is possible to buy a "no-clean flux" but that is a liquid flux and needs to be applied separately with a paint brush prior to flowing the joint with solder. Also it needs to be used in conjunction with flux free silver solder. But this is only essential for production environments to reduce time consuming operations like cleaning and drying time.
A good clean solder joint should be good for 25 years.
Good video anyhow. Nice to see you tin everything first. Like a pro!
Thanks for the suggestion!
@@anadialog Not a big problem when you only have a few cables. Just imagine putting together a recording studio and you have to make 24 or 48 cables. It could be a big problem 10 years down the line when they all start failing around the same time and you have a diary full of bookings.
I ordered a set of 4 of these connectors and a meter of the cable; to make 2 short coax cables that I need in my system - one for the streamer and one for the CD transport. I have been using a Monolith cable - that is silver coated on the copper center conductor. I have tried 4 other low cost cable (they are all a bit more than the Monolith) and none of them have anywhere the sound quality. So, I am hoping that this cable is even better than the Monolith. It is ~$15 vs ~$172.
By the way - I can highly recommend the Iso-Braid AC cable from Pine Tree Audio, here in the US. They are $65 for 3' and about $10 more per additional foot. They sound *stunning*. NOTHING short of an amazing new amp or DAC has made anywhere as much of an improvement in my system, as using these Iso-Braid AC power cables.
It took me over 30 years to try an AC cable swap - though for much of that time, my equipment had non-detachable power cords - and I was a very big *skeptic*.
*I wasted over 30 years on what I now know was totally mediocre sound!*
If you are streaming, invest $40 in this network switch... Amazon has them in stock. NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Plus Switch (GS108Ev3)
I installed this switch into my network and never said a word to anyone. This switch only serves my little AV corner in the living room. There is a Roku Ultra and BuzzTV android box getting signal via this switch, HDMI out to the TV. My 80 yo mother walked into the room and thought I had bought a new TV and sound bar... The difference in sound and picture quality was that dramatic. Spend the $40, if it does nothing, send it back for a refund. It is even better with an upgraded 12v power supply.
I ended up paying to have the two cables assembled - they did them both for $50, and used silver solder.
THEY SOUND FANTASTIC! I was using silver plated coax, that sounded better than the 4 other coax cables I tried - but these pure silver cables sound significantly better, still!
I’ve put these cables on my tv cable box and modem boxes. I’ve been able to detect more transparency on all my TH-cam videos.
LOL, nice detector you got yourself! How about using golden Ethernet cables for online banking hahahaha 🙂
Excellent tutorial, many years ago I made some interconnect cables, however today there are more resources and tools to make them with ease and some skill. I will be following your steps, thanks for the lesson. Cheers...
Thank YOU!
audiophonics is my go to supplier for cables
Thanks for the Video. Since 2 Years I use exact this Neotech-Cable with BNC-Platinium Connectors by Furutech. Great sound. It connects my Reclocker Mutec MC 3plus USB and the McIntosh-Pre/DAC MHA 150. A friend of mine did the DiY-Work for me (thanks, Witold).
i made my own coaxial cable too; but i used solid twin copper electrical cable with a couple of connectors to go with it. At least both of the cables are solid. I’m not overly keen on stranded wire. i use this type of wire ( solid copper wire) for speaker cables too. Coaxial cables are noisy, because there is a current flowing through the wire itself. But the sound quality is still retained; with plenty of detail.
Monday am 15th May 2023. 🏴 Southampton England
I have done the same cable but with EIT pługs. It sounds very good. Recently I tried the Viablue silver digital cable. I was shocked how much it was better than the Neotech.
Hej Marcin, mozemy sie skontaktowac na priv? Planuje zbudowac taki kabelek i twoje doswiadczenie moze byc bezcenne dla mnie
I was searching for a good usb cable to go up from Supra excalibur, I'd never heard of Neotech before, so I tried their silver occ usb cable. Now after a few hours of break-in, I'm very impressed, my Innuos Zen connected to Audiogram dac jumped to another level. Thanks for introducing me to Neotech
Thank YOU!
I recently built digital interconnects for my mojo 1 and mojo 2 using furutech 75ohm cable. Very nice cable. Clean and musical.
A cable that's musical.
I congratulate you for your videos on cabling. So many reviewers stay away from this "controversial" topic because they don't want to upset some inexperienced, ignorant or biased people don't believe that cables make a difference. I have a couple thoughts to consider for the cable denier. Cardas, Audioquest, Kimber etc have sold hundreds of thousands of cables to tens of thousands of audiophiles and their business thrive after almost fifty years. Are all these customers wrong considering that, a good many who have far superior systems and probably hearing?. These same cable deniers will anxiously await the next product review from their favorite reviewer who uses custom cables. They don't believe in cables but the fact that their favorite reviewer believes in them and has carefully chosen custom cables for their system seems to escape them. Some people don't have a system that is sufficiently revealing so differences in cables become obvious. Also, this hobby is mostly pursued by men and many men pursue pastimes and occupations that have negative effects on their hearing, like they serve in the military, play with automobiles, motorcycles, power tools, firearms and other devices guaranteed to diminish unprotected hearing. If you cant hear the difference, get your hearing checked. Finally, the cost is a factor. Profit margins in the cable business are generous and some cables are very expensive with dubious results, that doesn't mean that cables do not make a difference and if people will put aside their biases and do some objective listening they may improve the sound of their systems for a reasonable cost. I have a suggestion for people wishing to tackle cables with minimal risk and cost. You can get cables from "Worlds Best Cables" on Amazon for reasonable prices with a no risk 30 day return. WBC has reasonably priced cables made from Mogami, Gotham and Canare products Give it a try. What do you have to lose?
Thanks for your nice comment and reccomendations!
That's great and everyone should build their own cable.
I built mine from a standard 75 ohm TV cable (white) which is perfect for this use ,it is wideband and Easley enough for this application.
The only (not big) drawback is that it is not as flexible as other cables, it is so cheap and works at least as good if not better than other cables ( compared it to quite expensive cable and there wasn't any difference between them sound Wise)
Great video, good work indeed. I've been making cables for over 30 years and agree you can make fabulous cables for a fraction of the price and lets not forget the marketing hype 'BS' associated with it that most of the price of goes on. I will say one thing though, WBT connectors have got to be one of the most user unfriendly, clunky and a bit pricey. There are easier, simpler and cheaper ones out there. But great video. Thanks
I agree...As I said in the video I don't like WBT but I wasn't able to find other silver 75ohm connectors...
@@anadialog silvers going to make a huge difference. Should make the 1 and 0 very bright.
@@r423fplip I am about to change your world....ready? Digital travels on an analog signal (voltage)! Hence your 1s and 0s are subject to the same issues. Boom!
Very Good Hand Assembled RCA Cord & Keep It Up Bro.........................👍
You are the only white audio guy on line that recognizes Black music. GIL SCOTT HERON album in the background, Kudos!
Black music in all its forms, blues, jazz, soul, funk, r&b etc. is the best music on earth!
@@anadialog Thats Racism
I made this cable Neotech its great. I put alco plug klei from pure silver.
Are the alco connectors 75 ohm? I'm considering the WBT alternative as they're rated 75 ohm, tx
@@devilspin6649 it not was "alco plug Klei" it was "also plug Klei" i put the most expensive Klei : Klei Perfect 22 Harmony Plug. It is good for digital cables(75 ohms) For me Klei(top plug) is more natural, analog, engaging sounding then WBT plug from silver
I hear you however, I use ordinary gold-plated 75ohm composite video cable as they are professionally/industrially terminated.
Ye - you should have shown measurements - how good this cable is ☝☝🧐
Measurements on short cables are nonsense. Only dielectrics have a sensible impact. Capacitance also have an effect but mainly on weak signals like tape heads and phono cartridges.
Sei l'italiano che parla inglese meglio di tutti so TH-cam (tranne me, ma io tra le altre cose sono professore d'inglese e non vale). Bravo! Davvero! Complimenti per i tuoi video, sempre molto informativi. Personalmente credo che non sia necessario comprare cavi così costosi (qui in Brasile dove abito io non li trovo) e comunque ho fatto degli RCA con cavo microfonico che vanno benissimo.
Ciaone
Mia madre era statunitense, sono bilingue. Credimi questi non sono costosi in confronto a quello che chiedono i marchi blasonati hifi!
@@anadialog Lo so... Ho visto certi cavi della Nordost che costano sui 40 mila dollari al metro...
Esatto, quelle sono le cose folli da evitare
Sono d'accordo, ottimo inglese, da 36000 piedi in aereo per Salt Lake City! Non ci sono cavi migliori di questo Neotech?
Thanks for the video ! Does this cable have "direction" ?
It does, it is reported on the surface of the cable.
U made this a semi balanced digital interlink right? Planning on making myself one of those. Already made a nice pair of regular interlinks with that neotech 3004 cable :)
Geez, I don't remember. I think this time I connected the shield on both sides.
I'm sorry to be a cable bore but it was into it deeply and of course, no one likes my opinions like I do. I agree with your observations about materials. I only used the best available at the time. Six nines pure copper and pure silver wire. Silver plated copper wire always was harsh and fatiguing in he long run except on digital where it seemed to work okay. I also used teflon coating dielectric. I didnt care for gold plated plugs that used ferrous nickel as a binder for the gold plating. I used a plug that used a silver undercoating to bind the silver to the brass or bronze plug. Without the binder gold flakes off. I often used Cardas SLVR RCA plugs because they were made of silver plate directly on to the brass or bronze plug No gold plating.
At the time I thought Rhodium killed too much information. Maybe food for an excessively bright cable but I didnt use it. I also experimented with cryogenically treating copper condors with some success. At the time there was a solder called Wonder Solder sold by an audio reviewer. I have no idea what it contains but it was an excellent solder natural and reviewing without the brightness of silver solder or the dullness of standard Kester solder. The important things about cables is they are a little system unto themselves and evert individual piece counts. You can change conductor, dialectic, connector and solder to tailor the sound you want. I sold or gave away all my cable in the 90s. Ironically, I recently I bought back a pair of one of my best interconnects on Ebay and I was gratified to hear that they still sounded as good or better than what I had in my system at the time. New is not always better .
How do you know the cable is six nines. You would be surprised what is not. Loads of unmeasured stuff out there. eBay, 100% genuine !
i most certainly would love, to have… solid silver and a pure gold audio cables… laid out in front of me right now, to connect up…. and have a listen, and see if it does make any difference. Much more detail perhaps; without having to mess about with the built in graphic equaliser.
Solid Gold or silver speaker cables too… yes that would be great! That’s assuming that you can get hold of…. any of these cables in the 1st place. Might cost a pretty packet too?
i have, 2 sets of speakers. One set is the Wharfadale 9.1 and the other is a pair of Moukey… 3 way.
i tested them both using my solid electrical copper speaker wires ( not too long) but thicker than satellite cable. and I’m using a made up twin solid copper coaxial cable. There is a noticeable sound difference In between the 2 sets of speakers. The Wharfadale came out on top. Much clearer. Slightly more detail.
Friday am 19th May 2023. Southampton England 🏴
I prefer factory cables. Guido, for that ~210 eur you have many many choices. I would recommend QED cables at first, but there are tons of Audioquest. There are also silver-plated ones. Not worse. I bet. This is not cheap, this is rather almost expensive though I know there are much more expensive options out there. But making DIY cables for the price of a great factory one...
Yes, I have recommended much cheaper solutions, you're right, but remember that this is all silver and that in terms of factory cables are extremely expensive
@@anadialog Guido, the signal is carried on the surface of the cable. It does not matter if the core is silver or copper. I would kindly compare it to factory cables. Did you may do that?
@@7AccordHomeStudio hi there, nope that is a misconception. Signal travels near the surface not exclusively ON the surface. The higher the frequency the closer to the edge, that is in fact where we have the skin effect, with very high frequencies while audio is more in depth.
@@anadialog Ok maestro. :) I believe it to you. But I will prefer factory ones in the future.
@@anadialog I doubt 1's and 0's care if it's silver or copper.
The 2001 is a triaxial. I only connect the outer shield to the source end. The distance between inner "shield" and the center conductor is where the 75 ohm relationship is created. Also I do not see how the 75 ohm is maintained in the connector you are using. The distance between the conductors looks to be changed. I use a hot knife to cut insulation, super easy. Also use the hot knife to melt the decorative cover into the insulation where it will be inside the connector so no shrink is needed. I modify Switchcraft 3502AAU connectors so that the cable can be butted up to right where the RCA takes shape. There is only about 1/32" at each end of the cable where the conductors are not in their original coaxial arrangement.
In the video you can clearly see that I connect only the outer shield. In the connector the distance is created by the connector itself which is a 75 ohm silver connector designed for coaxial cable. I think all this is very clearly expressed in the video.
@@anadialog From the Sonic Craft website where I have purchased. "Our recommendation is to terminate the inner braid at both ends, and the outer braid at the source." I THINK YOUR CABLE STRIPPER CUT OFF THE OUTER BRAID !. Look at the diagram in your video, there are TWO BRAIDS. You say in the video "Repeat on the other side". You are not supposed to do the same thing on each side. You also say "this is the first one I have made." I have made about 50 of them. I am giving you my feedback as you request because I make these types of cables. I have tried many connectors. I don't doubt you are happy with your cable. I believe you could be even happier.
If you connect the shield at both ends then its no longer a shield. You have two grounds. The cable you are using has a live , ground and dedicated shield thats to be terminated at the source end. This is why many cables are directional.
@@stephens2r338 That is exactly what I said. The Neotech 2001 is a triaxial construction. The largest diameter braid is the shield. and is connected at the source end only. In the video this is cut off at both ends with the wire stripping tool and I don't think the guy in the video is even aware that it is there. He even says the stripper tool doesn't fit properly. The next braid is the negative and is connected at both ends. Then the center conductor is the positive. You can see the 2 braids on the cable diagram presented in the video. Most all 75 ohm cables are coaxial and there is only one braid and a center. The braid is often still referred to as a shield, which is why I used quote marks on the word "shield". The whole point of my comments is that the builder was not using the actual shield at all.
Great video, mate 😎🎶👍
Excellent
Would this be a good cable for analog RCA interconnects?
Specifically for turntable, the quad shielding seems good for RFI.
ALWAYS CHECK CONTINUITY!
Shit, that's were exactly what I were using for years. I use the AECO pure silver connector which are the OEM factory of ETI Bullet plug. Also, did you tried any different if all braid connected to the ground v.s. just connect the inner/outer/all sheild to the source end only ? There are certainly many way to play with this multi-shielding cable.
You better off going with a non-shielded cable for digital signal and trying to get 93 Ohms.
Just use some pliers ideally pointed nose and wrap a elastic band around the handle as a clamp to hold your wire or terminal
Why 93ohms? SPDIF is a 75ohm transmission line. It is designed for standard 75ohm coax. Under six feet it won't mater anyway but again why not just use the proper cable?
@@andydelle4509 well 75 is a standard for digital but if you use 93 you should get less ringing smoother response on the top leading edge should sound a bit better analogue more filtering at the high frequency above 10kHz
@@hoobsgroove Where are you getting this information? There is absolutely no benefit to mis-matching an impedance controlled circuit. A mismatch is exactly what causes ringing and reflections. And furthermore, what makes you think less ringing on a digital pulse train relates to less ringing on the decoded analog signal? It simply doesn't work that way. As long as any ringing is less than half the pulse amplitude, it is invisible to the decoder. Any more and you will get clicks and pops due to errors.
I work for a wire termination company here on the US. I enjoyed your video. My question is do you prefer silver over copper?
Our connectors are compression connectors so they are much easier to put on but probably not as high quality as what was shown here. Nice work.
Thanks! I can say that silver has that extra quality, especially OCC silver, when designed properly and with excellent insulation BUT they are just too expensive so quality copper is probably the most quality/cost effective!
bella la intro asmr XD
I've always wondered why no one has tested and posted results of different RCA connectors to see which ones come close to 75 ohms. I have seen a ton of cable measurements but not a single test of the actual connectors. Odd.
Digital music travels through analog signals. Dam 😂
Ignorance is bliss! 😊
You made an xlr cable, but you didn't use occc connectors. do you think it's making a big difference? have you tried silver xlr cables?
Yes, the keep the price down in that video I used non-occ connectors. But at least it was still high quality copper. No, I don't think they would make a big difference only some difference. Nope, no silver on xlr, usually they are quite long, maybe one day...
Are solid core good non digital?
Always good!
Good bosqu
Im I the only one Who listened to slayer mandatory suicide after this clip?
i honestly don’t know if, it really does make any difference as regards to, using…… either copper, silver, or even Gold… for that matter; when it comes to audio cables, for listening to music. But, i do have that feeling, though… that it probably doesn’t.
Try!
It makes a clear difference to anyone with ears. ...When I started to build my own power cables decades ago, I noticed that I could tune the sound of the cables and by proxy my gear by using different plated connectors, gold would sound warmer, silver more detailed, pure copper was always my baseline and usually I preferred gold. I found the same was true of ICs Then I found that certain combinations with certain gear had better synergy. ...As long as you’re having fun. ;-)
Thank you very much for this excellent video, as always. Like you, I make my own modulation and digital cables, using the remarkable NEOTECH cables.
I have just changed my amplifier (Willsenton R300, excellent single stage amplifier, 300B tubes not too expensive). My beloved Van Den Hul "The Frist Ultimate" all carbon cable is not suitable here as it is too warm and lacks transparency. I first ordered a NEOTECH NEMOI-3220 RCA stereo copper OCC PTFE cable, but I returned it after a few days because the Van Den Hul is much better.
I then decided to review the digital and modulation cables with NEOTECH OCC copper cables, which have some silver plated strands. Please abandon all ideas about silver plated copper, at least with these two references (KLEI PURE22 HARMONY RCA connectors) :
RCA modulation :
- NEOTECH NEI-3001 MKIII symmetrical UP-OCC (48 euro per meter, another world compared to the already excellent NEOTECH NEI-3004). Here you have to connect the cables two by two and the shield on the source side only)
digital RCA :
- NEOTECH NEI-3003 MK III UP-OCC silver plated coaxial cable (22 euro per meter).
In 45 years of high fidelity, I have NEVER heard such qualities of transparency, harmonic richness, smoothness and naturalness. Incredible!
I don't know if the pure silver model are still superior to it, but for my part, I will stay with these ones which fill me completely.
Thanks again for all your excellent videos! Love from France.
Thank you for your input! I suspect that the Neotech you sent back maybe wasn't burned-in enough? But it may be that the Van was better, you seem to have experienced enough to understand this! ;-)
@@anadialog I waited a week but nothing to do for the 3220. However, for the NEOTECH 3001 MkII, mio Dio ! :)
2:08 you have difficulty to say pair of scissors because of english :) there is A scissor not a pair :) we call it "makas" not "bir çift makaslar" (a couple of scissors) in turkish :) just noticed I am using scissor all the time :))
How this affects the sound?? the signal is digital, a regular coaxial cable that can be made for less than 5 € will be exaclty the same in quality, i did work on a telecom and our wiring was less than 1€ and top quality for broadband in a quite higer bandwith than SP/DIF, and there's always the option of optical SP/DIF that is just flawless.
Electrons travel differently through conductive materials. Try a steel cable vs a copper one and let's talk again...
@@Nihilist13 yes, i'm aware of that, and this will have an effect on analog transmissions, but SP/DIF is digital so it doesn't matter the quality on the transmission while is inside certain parameters, that's the advantage of digital communications, you have a range of values that will be decoded as correct on the receiver end thus making a perfect reception, there's no advantage on "better" wiring for digital transmission for this and other reasons (checksum, error correction, noise floor).
Don’t waste your time Francisco. They belive! You can’t outscore their faith! ;)
I wish it was so. As I said in the video digital audio travels on an analog signal (voltage) which is my manybthibgs can go wrong. Ever wondered why coaxial cables for digital has so much shielding plus it is built just like a normal interconnect, because it is always an electromagnetic signal. Time to wake up from the less digital myths. Digital is crammed filled with issues, just like analog!
Lol… keep the faith! 😆
As, I’ve mentioned in my comment. I’m using solid copper electrical wires for my made up coaxial cable. But there is one million dollar question that i don’t know…… are these cables oxygen free??? (OFC)
Tuesday pm 16th May 2023. 🏴 Southampton England
The ones I used is OCC silver
eBay, 100% genuine ! You sure .
What?
@@anadialog you sure it is genuine. Have you tested it with regards to its oxygen free rating ? Are they 75 ohm ? Are they 100% silver ? Just because it says so on the label, may not be true. If you use a connector that's not 75 ohms, what effect does it have and the dac. Are the connections on a cd player or dac 75 ohms ? They may not be, so what effect might this have ? Just wondering.
@@anadialog still no reply !
I changed my modem cables to silver.
I suggest trying oil filled cables. I no longer have a sweet spot.
The golden rule of audiophile cables: You tell the average audiophile the price of each cable and magically the more expensive one will be the best sounding one.
Don’t know what you are commenting because I am the first (for years now and with much more impact) to claim that you don’t need to spends hundreds of dollars but just look for quality materials and do them yourself
@@anadialog Yes, I know, and I'm not here to disagree with that message! Actually I agree on it 100% and also love my own system to look audiophile on every cable, even for those cables where there is no actual audio fidelity difference.
@@anadialog One video that would be really fun to make and very informative is to go the other way around and just make a very long SPDIF cable using 75 Ohms antenna cable long enough to get audible data errors. You probably need more than 25 feet for that. Then reduce the length until you feel the audio data is coming through reliably and run an A/B blind listening test between this insane cable and any dedicated SPDIF cable (short length), ideally some crazy priced Nordost cable or similar. If you can reliably convince yourself that you actually hear any difference, it would be interesting.
Apparently, I'm not "hifi" enough for $145 connectors just by themselves.
Of course they are if done properly and made with quality materials. In cables cost means nothing
@@anadialog you are crazy
SPDIF Myth Busting:
1) No SPDIF cable is going to make subtle improvements or changes to the decoded audio. Bad cables make clicks and pops or no signal at all. That's the point of digital signal transmission.
2) Exotic cables do not sound different other than above (clicks and pops). Just use plain old 75ohm coax which SPDIF was designed for.
3) You don't need true 75ohm RCA connectors,. At the frequencies involved for AES/SPDIF, the impedance mis-match due connector length is irrelevant.
4) For short runs, like under 4 feet, any plain old audio cable will probably work but I would still use proper 75ohm coax. But again, cable problems result in clicks and pops, not subtle degradation's to the decoded audio.That simply can't happen.
5) Copper wire is not directional period! Some XLR cables may show a direction due PIN 1 being unconnected on one of the ends. but that copper has no ideal direction.
ANA[DIA]LOG, What is your background in Electrical Engineering? As for mine, you can look me up on LinkedIn.
1) wrong because digital travels on analog signal.
2) 3) seem to contradict each other
4) Wrong again. Just for a start bad insulation may attenuate the signal (dielectric constant).
5) Cables are directional when the screen is not connected at both ends. Period.
@@anadialog 1) what?
2) 3) learn to read
4) you are wrong
5) learn to read again
There are two different types of listeners. Those who look at a monitor's and let there fingers do the talking.
Then, there are avid listeners who are willing to take the punt.
shielding?! no need. just muddies the sound. Maybe if your home is like an electrical sub station, otherwise ditch it.
This is a coaxial cable. Remove the shield and then he only has one conductor and the digital signal would float. It wouldnt work like that. Are you suggesting a simple pair of wires would be better? (For a digital cable is that really true?)
I agree...on other cables, but coaxial need some
Yeah, coax is shielded. I don't use it. 2 proper wires twisted or braided is what I found best after 30yrs playing around. Jmho.... 😉
Gil Scott Heron
VanDamme 75 Ohm professional video coax cable €1.50 per meter, REAN by Neutrik RCA plugs €2 each - perfect cables for barely more than €5.
Solid core silver conductors: Good!
But it’s shielded, really really bad!! The metal shielding when surrounding the silver conductor will act as a capacitor and it will change the sound. Get rid of the shielding, for God’s sake (wait… I don’t believe in your Gods)
It's a 75 ohm co-axial cable
What you've actually heard the difference within the sound yourself have you? Or is it something you read
The first thing that’s wrong with the picture on your video is the metal/aluminum shielding for the cable. Shielding robs the essence of the music. Never use shielding on a cable. The best dielectric is air surrounding the metal conductor which is housed in a Teflon tube without any kind of shielding. NO Shielding!!
This is a 75 Ohm co-axial cable not a speaker cable or IC's
If uou check my other vids you will see that I agree on this but it depends for what cable...coax needs good shielding unfortunately
When I had my cabe company in the 80s and 90s I cam to the same conclusion and never shielded IC or speaker cable. Then I made a digital cable and it was a whole different thing. Digital throw out a lot of electronic garbage that will interfere with other cables and your phono. Even back then when there was not so much digital electronic detritus in the atmosphere shielding was necessary. My compromise however was not to use a heavy metal shield but a metalized poly tape that I wrapped around the cable. It was flexible, shielded the digital noise and had minimal impact on the sound of the cable
@@anadialog Except you didn't use the shield. Your stripper tool cut it off. Most coax the "shield" is one of the conductors. The unique feature of the 2001 is that is has a second braid that can be used like a real shield connected only at the source end.
or, you can buy some van Damme coax for about 10 euros, some fake WBT's for 10 euros, and make a functionally identical cable for a tenth the cost of this nonsense. A digital signal just needs to get cleanly from A to B, digital information doesn't care if it gets sent over silver, and it certainly doesn't know if its going over a genuine WBT. Spending more than 200 euros on a coax cable is madness.
There is no difference between analog and digital signal because digital travels in an analog form, yes, voltage so it is susceptible to the same problems of interference, inductance, capacitance and resistance, plus all the problems coming from the dielectrics. It is much more complex than what we think.
@@anadialog Best answer one could have wished for.
Obviously audio cables costing 100s or 1000s of Dollars are pure snake oil considering the actual material BOM cost is down in a few Dollars. However, don't get fooled also by their marketing justifying those insane cost to think that you need sophisticated cables for everything. SPDIF (Sony/Philips Digital Interconnect Format) is a relatively simple one way binary level data transfer connection using Biphase Mark encoding with a base frequency up to 3MHz. For this reason the cable does exhibit some RF transmission line concerns and needs 75 Ω coax to support it, but because the cable is short and 3MHz is still relatively low frequency, you don't have to worry about data being lost or altered. Your old TV or radio were often also using 75 Ω coax cables btw but up to 100s of times higher frequencies and at much longer cable lengths. So save your money and time, SPDIF connections do not make a difference for your sound quality, as this TH-cam video doesn't look or sound any better using an audiophile power cable to your computer. Period.
Which quality spdif cables have you tried?
@@anadialog Numerous cables in fact, cause I work professionally in audio R&D. As SPDIF is a data transfer interconnect, the goal is to have a reliable transfer of every bit of data. The physical and data link layer of the SPIF protocol is reliable because of the relatively low data frequency and short cable length. You could try to connect a long coax cable (e.g. if you have an old TV cable) and perhaps if you reach a very long length, you would start to hear data reliability issues. So how would such data errors sound like? Loss of details? Change of tonal balance? Change of sound stage? NO, what you will start to hear when the data becomes unreliable is DC jumps in the signal with very nasty effects. Yes, I've heard how that actually sounds like! Until the moment where data becomes unreliable, data is data like it is when you do online banking, watch Netflix or whatever you do with those data. Also jitter is a concern of good PLL design on the DAC side and not the cable btw.
@@ThinkingBetter anadialog is in shambles!
The Harmonic Technology Digital Silver III is far better, its OCC Silver.
Not true. Apart from the fact that it is a 450$ cable and mine is 190$, but tye Neotech has teflon insulation (Harmonic has polyethylene) and insulation is paramount in performance almost as the conductor. But I agree on OCC silver, if you find that with teflon THEN it will be superior to this one BUT much much more expensive.
@@anadialog No, 1meter 80€ @mcru
I did the same cable as u 1 month ago, but with the kopper Version plugs.
@@anadialog The Oyaide FTVS-510 coax has a solid 5N silver conductor and is well regarded. I'm pretty sure the insulation is teflon. They sell them terminated too with RCA's or some very nice BNC's - a much better connector.
20 minute video/5 minutes of info. 🙄
All wrong...SPDIF cable as video cable should be crimped not soldered...
The RCA connector are made for analog audio.
There are at least two manufacturers of RCA connector designed to be crimped and certified for 75 Oms cable.
CANARE RCAP-C5F
Belden DB59RCAU-25
For wire choose Belden or Canare
The recipe is ultra simple, the right impedance (75 Ohms), with the right cable (75 Ohms), the right connector (75 Ohms certified) and NO SOLDERING...crimping only.
Crimping is for the video coaxial cable, this is an audio cable. Nevertheless, if you can find a silver crimpable rca be my guest! Cold joints are always better IMHO.
@@anadialog Crimping video 75 Ohms coaxial cable is for any cable...video or audio.
It's just the right way to do it, to get the proper impedance.
Following industry standards seems alaways a challenge for audiophile...
@@MrMftech It is the audiophile industry that does not follow the standards because there is no such thing as a true 75 ohm RCA connector. Once you get to the RCA part the distance between the center pin and the collar is incorrect. The crimp on connectors you mention are likely the best you can get. They maintain the 75 ohm right up to where the RCA dimensions take hold. The crimping vs. soldering alone has little to nothing to do with it. Maintaining the proper distance between the conductors is paramount and the crimp style connectors easily do this well. Unfortunately the crimp ons need the correct crimper die for different cable models and I do not think that there is one for the 2001 and I don’t know how you could handle the second braid.
@@MrNeverlift There is a least two RCA connector designed to support 75 Ohms cable.
CANARE RCAP-C5F and Belden Double Bubble RG-6 RCA Coax Compression Connector both are crimped.
Thre is no soldering when you need to transport high frequency content and crimping provide consistency in the assemblage.
Every die is designed for a specific coaxial cable diameter and RCA plugs.
Nothing fancy...just common sense and following industry standards.
@@MrMftech Iv'e used them all. As mentioned, I do not believe there is a die set that fits the Neotech 2001. Neotech does not publish a radio guide spec. The 2001 is also a triaxial and the outer most braid should be connected to the source end only. Problematic for a crimp style. The crimp style maintains the 75 ohm coaxial configuration right up to the RCA (no longer 75 ohms). Most solder connectors alter the distance between the conductors way before it turns into RCA. Therefore, crimp ons are inherently a better design for this use. The fact that they don't need solder is a convenience (especially in the field where most RG cables are assembled). The electronics industry (not the audiophile) decided to use RCA ends on SPDIF cables. Look at older DAC's, many had BNC sockets and you would get 75 all the way. You do know is not measured with an ohm meter? You do know if you bend a coax to sharply it degrades the 75 ohms? Go to the Blue Jeans Cable website. They use the RCAP's. They do a good job explaining. Better than I can.
expensive solder !!!!!! :) expensive cable !!!! :) expensive RCA connectors !!!! :) to be fair he is using all the best gear :) .
ps i dont like the way rca connectors are now coming with plastic outer casing like the one's from KLE :(
True, but if you would go and get this same type of cable (meaning the same materials) from a cable manufacturer you would be paying at least triple!
First you have to learn how to focus your camera.