ATTENTION!: If you want a safe cable you should connect the GROUND to the external SHIELD/braid. This will avoid electric shock. SHIELDING (Updated): Since I have received a lot of criticism on my decision on NOT to shield the cable here is a short explanation that may help you to decide what to do. I am adding an important video (th-cam.com/video/ekR5-tUk0tA/w-d-xo.html) released by Paul McGowan ho clearly states how shielding is negative for audio quality in power cords. PS Audio does add shielding but very very distant from the conductor, which makes sense. I say go all the way and if you do not have interference go with out any shielding. The audio signal will greatly improve. Here is an interesting article that confirms the presence of this issue and its cause: www.empiricalaudio.com/computer-audio/technical-papers/myths-and-snake-oil Unfortunately shielding has two downsides: 1 - it lowers the dynamics In fact, for example 'Audience', one of the best powercable producers out there, has always produced unshielded cables. Only recently they started to introduce some special shielding. 2 - it can vehicle humms The best is to try without, especially if, like me, you are using a power conditioner. If you hear sone interference, just connect the braid to the ground. Very easy and fast to do in a powercord! This is my personal experience.
Shielded power cables causing either downside 1 or 2 is an improper termination/application of said power cable. Anyone selling $1k+ power cables is selling audiophool jewelry.
Much appreciated! Today I finished assembling the power cable as per your instructions. I'm happy to report that the investment paid off really well. Thanks a lot!
Also proper wire gauge is very important. In the US a standard 15 amp circuit, by code, employs 14awg and a 20 amp circuit 12awg. By knowing what is run from your breaker panel to your outlets will help you determine the final leg to your components.
Actually gold isn't such a good conductor like copper and silver silver is the number one conductor followed by copper the reason why people use gold is because it doesn't corrode and therefore it protects the connections but it's definitely not the number one conductor
Hey GSUS HC! Thank you for your comment. I can see that you did not see my other videos. I have already said what you just claimed here, take a look: th-cam.com/video/91cCufCB9JQ/w-d-xo.html In the end, due to the decay of the other metals, gold is best. Silver has its numbers, and it is probably even better in high quality connectors, but strage lubricants are used to stop corrosion and we do not know exactly how much they interfere in the transmission. I use both!
Maybe use cold soldered/ crimped cabling. Corrosion is important, but purity is what counts for the audio (= also very very slow corrosion). You are maybe right on the lubricants, f.e. Audioquest uses copper/ silver paste in respect to copper/ silver cable, but that is for better conductivty and I don't know how it will affect the sound on a long term. Even bending of a cable will change it's properties! Change copper/ silver cables to make it sound like you want. High-end cables are composed (different materials) to bring a flat response as much as possible. So it is a matter of taste and you have to test as long as your not satisfied. The diameter of the cable also is responsible for the sensitivity of interference. So shielding (and grounding) is just as important, and the type of shielding, will change the sound too. It's a balance of the entire chain, so test thinner vs fatter cables as well! You're too deep in it already hahaha Good luck my friend.... In my experience the cables that have a mechanical part on the end (speakers/ mic) will have the most audible effect when changed. My condenser mic is known for it's thinny high end (great for recording high frequencies) until I replaced the XLR cable. (Audioquest in this case). Man, the difference is night and day. Noise levels are negligable now and it sounds warmer to say the least, without comprimise of the high frequencies. That being said it still is a compromise.
I'm using gold connectors, because the sound is best to me. I don't like silver, highs are harsh and unnatural to my ears. People like silver, because of the details. I like gold, because of the musicality.
Hifi and power cabling , we won't win. If we say we can't hear it, they say we are deaf or don't know how to listen. Best is just shut up and sell them the crap and collect the commission.
Clear instruction and encouraging video. Safe operation. A few tweaks for audience make it better 1. Terminate the metal shield at power source (wall plug) side ground connector when grounding wire is inside the shield. 2. Cut off the excess cleaner before wrap them with dialectic tape. Op has a time limit:)
Thanks for your input but I did not connect the shield on purpose. I know its more dangerous but the sound will be much better, trust me...and if you don't check the video Paul McGowan just released on this topic: th-cam.com/video/ekR5-tUk0tA/w-d-xo.html
I'm an audio engineer, not an audiophile. Good shielded power cables are important to isolate the power signal going to the equipment. BUT IT HAS TO BE COMING FROM A POWER CONDITIONER/FILTER !! Using them with crappy home depot power extension is just going to deliver the bad power signal very well.
Isn't this mostly about making sure that (close to your audio equipment) the mains power cable doesn't cause too much interference on the nearby audio interconnect cables? So it's not about having cleaner power, it's about letting the dirty power noise leak towards the nearby analog cables carrying very sensitive audio signals.
I see it like this. The mains supply to your house has travelled hundreds of miles from the power station to your local sub-station. From there, it's probably gone to a ring main in your street then into your mains box where it's split into spurs such as downstairs power, upstairs lights etc. You're saying that changing the last metre of your electricity's journey has changed the sound ? Your new cable certainly isn't acting as a filter. If so, then I can only suggest that what's happened is either: 1. your old cable was somehow faulty possibly picking up RF interference, or, more likely.. 2. the placebo effect. There's no such thing as audiophile electricity. What's most important is that your system doesn't share its mains spur with appliances such as fridges, washing machines, vacuum cleaners etc. Nice looking cable though.
Hi Someblocke, as I replied to others, first of all you need a good cable that can serve you gear when it needs more power or less, high quality shielding (not used in this video), preserve the quality of the electrivity that comes NOT from my wall sockets but from my main filters, which deliver pure and stable power. Here is a video I made on this topic: th-cam.com/video/elU1cEMLjYE/w-d-xo.html
I think it would be interesting to dismantle a generic power cable in order to measure the diameter of the cables and the (lack of) quality of the connections. Then we will rush to the cable store to build one like yours!
Dynamics may seem better when not shielded, but the fact is that is effect may be artificial. Noise below audible level may be giving this feeling of added dynamics but in the long term it is making the sound more fatiguing. I prefer the relaxed sound a shielded cable brings. There is no problem with the dynamics. Do you honestly think if you measure dynamics, peak vs min dB level with a shielded vs non shielded cable that you will see any measurable difference? You most certainly will not. The unshielded cable simply sounds more superficially dynamic and this will come to the detriment of long term listening pleasure and a natural sound.
If shielding isn't properly done and isolated from the conductor the sound is going to be lifeless compared to the same without. No fatigue, it's the signal in its purest form. Shielding will introduce artificial color to the sound. If you enjoy that be my guest!
I built a pair of one meter power cords a few years ago. These were for class D monoblocks so I decided to use shielding because of the switchmode power supplies these units have. I connected the shielding only at the plug end not the amp end because i did not want the shield to carry any current.
I've watched this video on three different occasions now, and I still come to the same uncertainty regarding the cable's inability to twist, as I presume it could make it annoying trying to plug it into the amp and power board without having to move stuff around. Do you recommend any other OCC based power cables due to it being nearly three years later, or even more important, if you had seen any of your regular vendors who made a male AS 3112 plugs for Australians. Thanks.
Of course! That is just an example. The best of the best, unbeatable for performance and sonics it the Yarbo SP-1100PW....simply speechless. All OCC and teflon insulation. A dream cable at a right price, at least here in Europe. I used this for my high-end equipment!
I purchased an SKW OCC power cable based on your recommendation of their speaker cables. I am now considering opening up my Tripp-Lite Isolation Transformer to replace its stock power cable w/ a custom made OCC power cable probably from SKW to connect it to the mains. - Cheerio
Electrical insulation Test Must do! The cable you used does it meet electrical safety standards for your country? This may be nit picky but SAFETY FIRST. What about your house electrical system, So in your house there may be up to 100M+ of cable from the fuse box which will be made of ordinary materials for a normal house in your country Not to mention the cables from the street and so forth,. So what difference would the last meter do? I have seen house earth connection replaced/repaired in a older house to fix a safty issue and the end user said there AV systems worked so much better...
I don’t know much about it but, if the electricity coming out of the wall socket has noise, does a good power cable minimize the noise? Also ideally should every component have a power cable? I appreciate your time in responding not just for me, perhaps other people have the same questions. Thank you!!’
Good quality power cables, IMHO, are very important, especially for amplifiers. Moreover, they should be paird with good quality power filters: th-cam.com/video/elU1cEMLjYE/w-d-xo.html
nice, but if you don't connect the shield to the ground (do it in one end) then it will actually work as an antenna causing more interference :/ maybe not a big problem with the short lenght of cable you have there
Shielding at plug end connection only is necessary. Even using a good power unit with effective filters, you are cleaning up the point before at the wall. The power cable with proper shielding, after the power unit, is to shield off interferences at its surrounding (electro magnetic field, radio frequencies, etc). I used not-thin single core copper wires insulated by solid teflon with two shieldings (braided to ground, and foil). I am happy with the musical sounds.
The antenna wont happen unless by capactive coupling, but the whole idea of shielding doesn't work. But the author said he is not an EE. so trying his best. the interesting fact is he heard an effect. So mains cable is important ! Which as an EE i know to be true -without snake oil peddling which i hate.
This is best to be done if you don't own the nuclear power stations. Some new home owners in some parts of the world would have done hi-fi wiring lay down and associated electrical supplies hardware as the houses being built. For old houses, one would choose to manage cleanliness and stability of power supply like the "good" power cables. It is fun and appropriate.
Du hast die Stecker verkehrt herum angeschlossen. Stromfluss,wenn nicht anders markiert,immer gleich Schriftrichtung des Kabels. Abschirmung nur am Schuko anschließen. Ansonsten schönes video.
Don't quite understand these thick copper cables - what cable is in your walls - do you have this kind (gage) cable all the way to the fuse table of the house? And what type of cable (gage) is the service provider providing to your fuse table? Or am I missing something here? Do you really ear a difference in your audio equipment? One would assume that it would not benefit to go any higher (gage vise) than the smallest one on your way to the "source" of the electricity .... Just asking. Thanks for great, entertaining episodes!!
The point here is to use high quality OCC copper and good quality connectors, possibly with a power filter. Then you will really make a change in your system. The cable can be solid or multistrand, no problem. This oyaide bulk cablebus just an example. I love to use all different kinds of cables of OCC copper or OCC silver.
Hello there, thank you for the great video, I want to ask though Looking on the video, you are using a "3 * 1.5mm with stranded shielding" as the base, but only using the 3 cable with no shield. What I want to ask, can I use standard NYY cable with only 3 * 2.5mm cable with exact plug type in this video? iec+...sucko? And no braided shield too within the cable Thanks in advance
Sure! For security it is better to connect the ground to the shield. I would try to use high quality OCC copper. I recently recommend my favorite for DIY cables: th-cam.com/video/zRkZEAYwIGA/w-d-xo.html
@@anadialog thank for the reply! Hmm, I don't know if I can find this "3 x ?.?mm with braided shield" in my country that's why I ask, can it still be used, For now, I'm still waiting either plug arrive from overseas order, but yeah, to think even for 1m high quality cable can cost me more than 40$, is fearsome...
Ciao Guido, ma il cavo Yarbo che vorrei prendere per il mio Amplificatore valvolare (2 mt), può andar bene anche per il prephono (black cube) e il giradischi sl 1210 GR? Così ne ordinerei 4 metri (2+1+1)...
Intendi sempre per l'alimentazione, certo! Mi sembra un'ottima soluzione! È il cavo perfetto...difficile da preparare però, occhio a non incidere i filamenti quando li sbucci!
@@anadialog il metraggio è importante? Oggi il corriere mi consegnerà 4 metri di cavo YARBO, inizialmente pensavo di prendere 2 metri (vista la distanza) per l'ampli valvolare, 1 metro per il prephono e 1 metro per il giradischi (ho preso anche 3-3 IEC-Schuko della ELECAUDIO); però forse riesco a recuperare da ognuno qualche centimetro per far uscire fuori un quarto cavo (per il lettore Bluray/CD). Per da questo posso ridurre il cavo per l'ampli a 1,40 metri forse anche un po' meno (vedo in corso di montaggio), 80 cm per il prephono, 80 per il giradischi e mi avanzarebbe così un metro per il lettore CD... pensi sia cosa buona, oppure un buon cavo di alimentazione richiede almeno un metro di cablaggio?
È un argomento delicato. Ho sentito costruttori dire di usare almeno 1.5m. Secondo me, dopo anni che me li faccio da solo, più sono corti e meglio è come tutti i cavi. Per esperienza ti dico che spesso uno riusa i cavi e li sposta. Se sono troppo corti non puoi più utilizzarli con altro oppure le prese troppo lontane.
@@anadialog ottimo! Alla fine ho ricavato 4 cavi, quello per il giradischi ci sta giusto giusto, 50 cm... così è uscito quello per il lettore CD, solo che avevo iec e schuko scarse, non ci entravano tutti i filamenti di cavo... li ho ridotti alla fine... poi rimedierò. Al momento, con breve ascolto, mi sento di dire di essere soddisfatto... forse le medie frequenze troppo squillanti... domani proverò meglio, poi mi sa che sarà necessario anche un po' di rodaggio no?
Nice shielded cable. Just too bad that the version you make doesn't use the shielding at all. As you clearly state, you're not a tech. Also the magic cable you have must really work wonders, since your electrical wires in your building probably isn't more that ordinary electricity house wiring. From your circuit breaker to the wall socket, there might be 10 meters or more. The wall socket is by chance not gold plated. So that nice cable doesn't do anything to the sound quality. And the mains filters you talk about in your first video doesn't do much to your sound either. If your hifi equipment is of a decent quality there will already be build in mains filters. So the what you might hear as better sound quality is based on the psycological effect of the price you have paid for the piece of expensive cable. Next time you make a cable and want to shield it, try to use the shield and connect that to the ground connection in one end of the connector, and only one end, as you might get a groundloop if you connect it to both ends. By the way, try to unscrew the lid of your amplifier and take a look at the wiring inside it. Then you might get an idea that all those thick expensive cables aren't that important, at least not the mains cables.
As I have already answered to others, you don't always shield just because you have a ground wire in your cable...in power cables active shileding is nit always a good idea in terms of sound...turning to the mains filter....geez! That was one if the best purchases of my life. The change in sound, especially before when I had a worse setup, the increase in quality was stunning.
Agree with you. For who that do not beleive that only changing power cable can significantly improve the soud, just try it man! I can't explained either but I've tired and it does significantly improved.
@@prathanw7091 I just had mine. One for the amp (Outlaw RR2160) and the second for the CD player (Emotiva ERC-3) and man.... the changes were unbelievable! I'm an electrical tech with some college in the field and more than 20 years of experience and still I was not a believer... until I tried them.
@@JulioCSolar You must be kidding right? Unbelieveable changes? How bad are the power-sections of your equipment that actually changing the power-cable has so much influence!. I can only conclude that before the change in power-cable, your equipment must have been sounding really awfull! Otherwise a UNBELIEVABLE cahnge would be impossible. Your claim is unbelievable.
Well, you can change it inside. You just need to desolder it. If it is ruined that is the best thing to do. As an upgrade I would focus on a good power conditioner or at least get a good connector.
@@anadialog great thank you, i will proceed to buy all item soon, but where to find the nylon sleeve for this type of cable? and what is the diameter for the cable?
Nice instructional. Anyone who has tried a better quality power cable knows it does make a difference by lowering the noise floor and rejecting interference. Cheers!
hello, pardon my ignorance but how do you guys deal with equipment without an IEC inlet ? like my receiver for example, the only way for me to make this happen would be to open up said receiver and solder the power cable.... any ideas ?
Older gear has in most cases its own cable. Yes, you could do that and substitute the cable or drill a hole for the inlet but you really need to know what you are doing besides decreasing the value of the machine.
What is the equivalent AWG guage of the wires? Doesn't look that thick - maybe 12 or 10? What guage woud you use for an amp? What Is the theory behind needing such cable? How does it make any difference?
We are in the multiple 0 area (below 1) if we are talking overall diameter. Very big cables, for less resistance and higher capacity, plus there is more space for insulation. The single conductor, I don't remember. We must change our perspective and stop saying there are hundreds of meters from the power plant up to our homes or studios. A good power cord is the first meter or so from the amplifier perspective, a very important part.
You should connects the shield to ground on one end (the AC wall outlet). Also, with Schuko its easy to swap live and neutral, thus causing current flow between devices. These both need attention when you want to improve sound.
Thanks. For the reason I did not connect the shield check the video description, for phase, I agree and always put a mark on the hot side. Check this: th-cam.com/video/VhhRPmt47j8/w-d-xo.html
Don't forgot to add the quarts crystals ! They must surround the conductors all the way through from one end to another for truly improved dynamics and depth.
I did the same with all my audio hardware (not that quality) but I changed the standard cables for better ones and like you said! It changes the sound dramatically! Sharper, brighter, more dynamics, bigger Soundstage, more volume and etc and etc.... I highly recommend to upgrade your audio cables
It's an important part of the system if you want it to look fancy. The top most important factors are: The room, speakers, power amp, pre-amp, and the audio source. Of the cables, the speaker cables are most important, then the interconnect. The least important is the power cable. The power cables that comes with the equipment is more than good enough for the task. Use your money on speakers and amplifier.
Really appreciated, thanks for your video. I'll try to make this cable (matte I'll use less rigid wires) and I'll compare with the np one. Homemade products give more satisfaction :-). Greatings from Italy
Ok great, you have an awesome 2 ft power cable. But what are you going to do about the 25 ft of cheap copper 14/2 in your walls or the miles of power lines that aren't super duper aligned power crystal copper?
That is a common misconception. You must change the perspective. The cable is the first meter for the amp, the most important of all, especially in a push-pull configuration.
Where can I find cable and plugs to make these? I am in the US. Also I have a two prong Pioneer SC-81 AV receiver that I want a cable upgrade for. How should I deal with that?
I think I miawednyour comment...sorry about that! It's probably too late but a good starting point is for the US is this one: www.thecableco.com/diy-cables-and-connectors.html
I also have a two-prong power cable on my integrated amp, and the manufacturer's tech said to get a decent-grade IEC C14 inlet (Amazon sells them) and ground the middle prong to the chassis.
Just a little heads up in terms of country specific regulations: here in Germany it is not allowed to use rigid cables for connecting electric devices to the wall plug. Rigid cables are only allowed to be used for permanent installation...
Nice video and explanation. You are correct in not connecting the screen at the IEC end., But you didn't as you should only the mains plug end, this would have provided screening of the cable, would have ensured low noise screening. As you have done, it there is no shielding! I would have also use heatshrink instead of insulation tape. Solid core cable does deliver better power than stranded but it's very inflexible.
Hi Chris, I did not connect the screen to keep the dynamics of the cable as best as possible. When you connect the screen, you obviously have a better screening from interference but if you are in a good spot with clean energy, infact I use power filters, the results are much better without connected it. Check the video description for further info. Several cable producers follow this philosophy.
Hi there, yes you are right...if usee that way. I tene not to use a shield when I am using a power filter (no wall socket). The dynamics are a better that way!
If you use single ended triode amplifiers they do not draw more current from the wall outlet during loud music passages so the power cable is less demanding than a solid state amplifier which draws more current. Also, a large enough capacitor bank takes care of momentary brief loud passages. Proper power supply filters: transformers which isolate, filter capacitors, and chokes all remove noise from appliances on the power line. These considerations having been made, the see-through plugs themselves look good to me, even if some think I have bad taste for liking them. You can buy different colored neon bulbs you can put in these plugs (with at least 100 k resistors to the neon bulb) so they light up when the power is live.
Good isolation from the wall socket to the amplifier. But how about the rest of the wiring? As far as I know the rest is just 2.5mm² Copper wire with basic isolation, picking up noise just as well. How does this small length of 'hi-end' wire help you?
There's a vid here on YT of an elderly Japanese man who paid to have the power line to his home replaced to improve the audio in his home, but I still dont get how that insulates him from the factories and other businesses sharing the same power grid. I'd also be looking to isolate myself from every refrigerator, television and bandsaw in the neighbourhood ;)
The answer to this common question is divided in two. Good cables interface between your gear and the power supply. It plays a role and must correctly respond to the gear need of power. Plus, a goid cable IMHO should always be attached to a good mains filter. Yhat chsnges completely your system (check my first video for this topic) and in thst case yoy want to deliver that good power thr best way as possible to your gear with a goid cable!
Yes, to be protected by electrocution. But not to get the best out of your component. Plus, we have dozens of stuff with bipolar cables, not everything is grounded.
You can get even better sound by change a few of your steps. The change are wary great. I think that the improvement will be the same as you already have experienced on top of what you have now! There are two shielding, that you just removed, try this instead. 1) connect the outer most shield to the earth, but only at the amplifier side. 2) the inner most shield. In both ends, du you solder a 0.1uF capacitor and solder it to ground.
Great, I would really like to hear what you say about it:-) By the way, in some seldom situations you could use a 0.047uF instead, but it is important that they are marked as the same value! :-)
Have you tried my version of your cable yet? :-) LOL have just tried a trick more, that really do make an improvement!! It is a lot greater work but imagine "My" version of your cable but with a stranded thin 18 AWG silver wire wrapped around the main cable, under the shields. And add some padding to make more space under the shielding. The silver do get better heights and air while the solid core give better base and the extra padding do add to that effect! EDIT: forgot to say that the silver and cobber cable shall connect in each end.
Sorry am properly the only one in the world without any FB, Twitter and so on. Warning it is a LOT of work, but the sound!!! I will try to make a better description:-) 1) you take two solid core OFC + OCC wire and wrap them together (only 6 or 12 turn per inch, 12 gives larger rejection and punch but unfortunately also less room in the sound) 2) put heat-schrink over them. 3) take a 18 AWG stranded silver cable and wrap it around the main wires (4 turns per inch if main 6 else 8 if main 12) and connect the silver wire to the main copper wires. 4) now tightly wrap cotton or wool around so that the fabric are running between the silver-cable turns but do not cross over the silver wire. Do that until the fabric and the silver wire are at same height 5) Put heat shrink over it all again 6) now wrap alu-foil around the whole cable 7) Put heat shrink over it all again 8) Put braided steel tubing over that 9) Do as described above with the shielding 10) Last you can decorate it all as you see fit. I know it is a lot, but my amp has just thrown away its tweeter-blanket, got rid of it's astma in the mids and kicked the base so hard it had to visit the doctor!! :-) Trust me, it's above high end, it's reference!! EDIT: forgot to tell that the two shields now act as a capacitor in the whole length and blocks any noise or humm from the outside, while at the same time stops reflections inside the cable!
Good point Ivar. Also soldering the connections once screwed in, with silver solder (WBT is good for this). Better sound and the screws never loosen this way too.
Hi Alex, Yes Ivar is right to get better shielding but I would not recommend to solder the connections. Soldering material is always a negative addition to a cable. A full contact through crimping or other non-soldering solutions is always better. Nevertheless, if you do have connection problems then some soldering will greatly help!
The connectors you talk about here are not meant for the US consumers I believe right ? so what would be a comparable ones for the guys who want to get these high end connectors ? any recommendations ? Pl let me know.
True, look for the same brands. They develop plugs for all countries. In any case, you just need a high quality construction and at least gold connectors for good performance and durability. Invest mainly in the conductors.
I tried to make a power cable with some heavy solid gauge cable Oyaide Tsunami and it was very difficult (impossible) to attach the UK plug or my right angled Furutech IEC. Do not go too low on the AWG as will cause my issues.
Ciao, quel connettore IEC riesce a stare dietro al Technics 1200 GR? Tu hai il 1200 G e sai come è l'attacco della IEC, angolato e nascosto dietro-sotto il giradischi.
I tried to understand this because you ask a good question and shunyata cables website has a good answer but I needed more so I looked further so here's my attempt as I understand it because more info helps finally solve this right? Think of power flowing from your component and the power source as a circuit. It circulates. The power is alternating current. So that means it changes direction 50 to 60 times a second. Google water analogy ac current for a good visual. There should be a gif of it. Next it is important to understand the component is drawing power not receiving it so what that means is it is doing the pumping in the circuit because it demands the power. The power source is letting the current flow as the component pushes it and it makes its way around to the component. Because the component is the one drawing power and the power cable is the first thing connected to it. That cable decides how good of a boost you're going to get before the rest messes with the sine wave. Adding the distortion. The better the cable the more it will resist the distortion and reflections and stuff like that.
I really am interested if you could compare this cable that has solid conductors with some version of the same quality from Oyaide, but the not solid core, multi litz wire, to compare the dynamics, the speed, and the richness of the sound. I've only used litz power cables and I am curious what is your take on this matter. I believe that you have realized by now that I am another compulsively obsessed music lover and audio gear lover.
Hi there, I have these: th-cam.com/video/K5tFrlCvn3o/w-d-xo.html Which are very good, especially the OCC copper one and they are litz. But they are interconnects not power cables. In my experience quality OCC copper it silver cables like Neotech, Oyaide, Furutech, Zapfino, Ramm etc. is all you need!
Hi thanks a lot for the very valuable advice. In your experience which type of components can benefit more from a better power cord ? my feeling is the digital ones, i.e. cd players and dacs. I guess the cable acts as a filter and suppress some mains noise. But i do not have equipment to verify this feeling. Regards, gino
Hi Gino, thanks! Actually, for me, the best place to start with is the power amp and preamp (or integrated amp, phono amp, headphones amp etc.)...then all the rest!
I upgraded to Nordost Valhalla 2 power cables and new power distribution and Nordost Frey 2 speaker cables. I will try to make an updated recording of the new cables...My partner is into high end cables and Hifi and listening to Madness or Depech Mode, the extra 3D dimensions were produced, more details were apparent, sounds of individual instruments were separated very easyily to hear the difference. I purchase Nordost Sort Kones an placed these under cd Central area, one other under the power inlet, another under the output side. Definitely more defined and clearer sound. Where do you stop? Enjoy the music. The purer the copper, the less the neutrons have stopping the transmission. Dirty copper or cheap copper is no good. Also termination to stop eddy currents , make asymmetrical at degree angles. Tuned lengths for the 50/60 Herz cycles. You need to know where to cut the cable.
Dave Jones, thank you again for your interesting comments. I'm not sure I understand the last part...do you Think bullet plugs and alike are good or not? Explain better the cable cutting procedure!
Hi. Thank you for your helpful video. Actually I have 2 conductors like your (in this vid) and a power cable that has 7 wires as identical and equal and All 7 wires are all transparent and without color. How can I select and connect them to connectors? Thanks
Just decide three coples and stick with them, one is the hit pole, one is the cold pole and one is ground. The 7th cable should be connected to the external brake. You decide, for a dafe cable it should be connected to the ground only on the source side. Otherwise none....
Yeah... miles and miles of aluminum cables since the power plant until our houses... and many more feet of poor copper inside the wall until the outlet... but the last foot will make "all the difference". Audiophile or audiophooled?
Hi Chistian, this is the 30th time I answer to this same comment. I use a power conditioner or mains filter that I discussed in my first video. This is a very important part of a hi-fi system (th-cam.com/video/elU1cEMLjYE/w-d-xo.html). The optimized and clean power produced from that needs to be perfectly delivered to my gear. Moreover, even if you do not have a conditioner, a good cable is nevessary to shield the power from interference, to respond to the push and pull demands of power of an amp and, mist importantly the geometry and quality of the conductors, wether we are using a wall socket or a filter, are going to improve the sound quality not enhancing it but trasmitting it in the best way possible fir your gear and its needs. Especially amplifiers but also the delicate sourced. When I finally intriduced I high quality cable in ky system for my amplifier, the change was dramatic. Now my question is, did you ever tried to buy a good quality cable for your amplifier, say of at least 70-80$? The truth is a real good cable is going yo cost you an arm and a leg but if you follow my instructions you can obtain the same results spending much less.
Nice vid, good to see you taking cables and powerchords serious. You could improve on the powercable by connecting the copper shielding to ground on the shuko side. I made my own powercables with the Oyaide Tunami and Oyaide connectors and I am very satisfied with the result.
Thanks Ivar and Anadialog on a great subject/demonstration. Regarding connecting cable sheilding to ground, just want to confirm that the sheilding should only be connected at one end (power outlet side) instead of both end, is that correct?
Power cables are the most effective cables on a system. Especially the one from the wall to your powerbar and the one feeding the amp. Also if you add a double pull metal on the minus pole, it gives the sound more stability be removinga lot of noise.
No it is not a joke. I also cover this on my channel. Double pull on minus means that you have a lot less noise because of the double amount of threads. It creates a flow in the music, where everything has a bit more time to happen; meaning that you also get a better timing and a more natural sound. If you have instead a double pull on the plus pole, it usually gives a more dynamic and unsettling sound that does not fully discharge the music. (sounding too tight) You can also go with a 50cm power cable instead of the usual 200cm length, to get a more focused and coupled sound. But 200cm sounds more smooth and settled. Try it.
It is a complete joke, if you judge a thing from a distance, then you won't actually know how that thing really reacts. The best things in this world were discovered by accident, this is one of those things. Only once you have done this, will you be able to find a theoretical reason to why it sounds better. All people in the start also found Einstein to be insane and not conforming to reality. But once they simulated his discoveries, did they realize that he was right. But it took a lot of work, going from theory to being able to apply that knowledge in practical ways.
I was interested until the cost. I am trying to AVOID spending 100+ for a power cable upgrade. Psaudio has a badass one for the same cost as you have here and no work plus resale.... but I love the video and it looks fun and satisfying to make.
+cardiobroker thank you for your comment. The Oyaide is just an example...try this baby: YARBO SP-1100PW Triple Shielded Power Cable OCC Ø 16.5mm (about 65€/80$). It Will blow the PSaudio out of the water. There is even a smaller gauge version that is even cheaper! All OCC Cooper. Impossible to find at this price as a finished cable!
Ciao! Mi hai convinto a costruirmi da solo il mio cavo, ho ordinato i componenti identici a quelli di questo video. Ho anche recuperato il video di Paul McGowan che dicevi. Lui dice di collegare la schermatura alla terra solo dal lato del connettore maschio, come mai tu non lo hai fatto per nessuno dei due connettori? Ho capito male il video di psaudio? Grazie, i tuoi video sono sempre molto interessanti.
Salve Mario, bene sono contento! Venendo alla questione schermatura. Se uno non ha grossi problemi di interferenze, è meglio non collegare la calza a mo' di schermatura perché a mio avviso, e anche secondo molti altri come PS audio, diminuisce la dinamica. PS audio dice di fare le cose diversamente e riesce ad inserire una schermatura senza compromettere il suono però Paul lo dice chiaro e tondo nel video che ho linkato nella descrizione del mio video, in generale la schermatura influisce negativamente e io sono d'accordo.
I know. It dies shield bit in a passive way. I have explained my choice in other comments. For my merda I do non want to connect the shield bit dir others it May workout.
What gauge was your original power cable? Upgrading from an 18 gauge to what looks like a 12 gauge will allow your transformer to draw power more easily. You may very well be correct that you heard a difference, but it probably wasn't because of some fancy schmancy cable, but just that your power cable is now a larger electrical pipe. Think sucking water throw a coffee straw and some PSI=X, then through a drinking straw at the same PSI; you get more and faster. Btw, those power wires running through your walls are likely 12 or 14 gauge, so long as your power cord is same gauge or larger, your equipment won't be bottlenecked by the stock 18 gauge wire the manufacturer gives you.
You buy an expensive SHIELDED cable, then cut the drain wire at both ends??? The shield will be doing nothing . You are supposed to connect the drain to the earth wire connection at both ends. What do you think the drain wire is there for? Using the automatic wire stripper is also bad practice - you can see how it damages the insulation just where the cables are near each other in the plug.
ana[dia]log I think you should read this very useful note about shielding. www.rane.com/note151.html I think also that the key thing about mains cable shielding is to stop the radiation of signal from the cable to other cables like interconnects, hence the name of Supra’s mains cable “Low Rad”.
ana[dia]log this is also useful. Unconnected shield can induce current into signal.... forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/why-we-need-to-connect-shield-of-shielded-cable-to-earth-ground.71926/
I agree that the hest thing is to usually ground the cable. But that is not always true. Shielding may induce re-rediating fields. Considering that I am using a power conditioner and the rest of the gear in grounded and shielded I decided not to shield the cable since IMHO it performs better. In all other cases I do suggest to shield!
@@anadialog is this not about each component part having an easier time performing it's function. The shield should be connected at earth. Each item is working at its best because it is dealing with less possible issues. Agree your conditioner should and will but why not allow it to perform with less possible RFI. I always connect the shield, its there so best to use it. Will it make a difference, well that is debatable.
Hey Guido! Please forgive me for bothering you about a video you shot 5 years ago 😊 but I do not believe that you can get this Oyaide OCC cable anymore to make your DIY power cord. I need to make one now primarily to reach a longer distance (about 2M) to the wall, but I cannot find this OCC wire. May I ask, please if you have any other suggestions for where I can get comparable wire now? Thank you Sir!
Oops, he forgot to mention that the cable running inside the walls of your house is about $1.50 per metre...but by all means, go ahead and make yourselves " HIGH END " CABLES! ENJOY! 👍
That is a common mistake there. Gear, especially amps, have a push-pull power requirement and if you do not have a good cable the machine is not going to work properly. Secondly, I always suggest to use a power filter and obviously the power cable makes even more sense. Thirdly the power cable I am suggesting is not high-end in its price but only in its effects. Finally, though you do not believe this because of your prejudice you still watch these videos and put a thumbs up on you your own comment...how lame.
I agree, shielding is useless, actually it lowers dynamics! What I am trying to say is that there is a variable use of power from the machine and the wall socket, and a good cable can optimize that relationship. Obviously it would be better to rewire properly the whole house but that is difficult and expensive. Plus, if you insert a good power filter things will get even better. A bad power filter will suck the life out of the music.
For me the best at the right price are the bulk cables by Neotech or any OCC copper teflon insulated is ok. Connectors again in OCC copper or simply high quality 24kt gold connectors.
What is the difference in sound if you invert you're neutral and living wire on the power cord (since AC current don't care about this and ALSO in my power amp how to tell the hot and cool wire on the transformer should be connected since is a single coil so they usually use the same wire so they are the same color ??
I want the A/B test. Where is it? Just so you know, I pay my power company extra to send me super clean, noiseless, audiophile AC right through the public power grid. It makes my stereo sound fantastic, superior toast, and my blender makes tastier margaritas!
Cool! I want that feature too!! I did set it up multiple times...man, the things I heat in real life on my couch just disapppear when converted and digitalized...that is why I am not doing it for now. ...moreover, now thst my system is optimimazed the effects are liwer than when I started when each quality tweek was hugely significant...
The prices dont add up for me here in the US. 87 for plugs each, 60 for cable, not to mention other materials. A good power cable can be 300 bucks, but its done and relatively the same cost for me.
Hi there, probably i will make a cable like yours, but do you know / recomend something diferent and more flexible? i dont have much space between my system and my wall, so i need a cable who can bend more easly. thanks a lot :)
Mainly this type www.amazon.com/VCELINK-Automatic-Stripper-Professional-Adjustable/dp/B08G48R47N/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=stripping+pliers&qid=1672433592&sr=8-5 But not exclusively
Hello bro. Can you please give me or do a run down on Nura Headphones. Heard a lot of hype. Any deapth;and a price comparison please. I have faith in your ears.
Hi John, I haven't tried them but the concept seems very intriguing. What I don't like on the paper is noise cancellation and the the normal frequency response. At that price I would look for a classic but solid pair of cans like the the Meze 99, which are also dam gorgeous!
You should run the cable through the acrylic back piece of the connector before you strip off any insulation. Easier that way. Also, what you call Hot, Neutral, Ground we call Line, Neutral, and Ground in the US.
Ho M Z, well if it is well shielded (in that case also using the brace connected to the ground that I cut off) you can have a very long cable without any issues, for example 5 m. It is also a good idea to have a power cable NOT too short. Short cables are good for interconnects but with power cables 1.5 m is better than 0.5 or 1 m. Don't ask me why, they just sound better! A person who sells cables told me this once and I must admit that he was right!
Very cool, I see your point about the length and the type of cable you area using, I noticed that somebody mentioned about silver, but the metal that you use needs to be for the appropriate application. In my humble opinion and I have done few different tests, yes silver is good for interconnects, headphones. Copper is the best to be used for power cables and they need to be well shilded. You are giving me a new project I want to try. Thanks for sharing
I'm curious, did you have any problems with the iec connector gripping the solid core wire ? it seems every time I use solid core the wire will pull out with just a slight tug.
Thanks for answering quickly, What I meant to say is, would these high-end power cables make a difference on my speakers since each one has a plate amp on them. I also have a pair of Yorkville 801 subs that also have a plate amp on them. I’m a ready running signal to them with Mogami XLR’s and that made a nice difference too.
Sadly as others have said you cut the screen at both ends? At the ac outlet plug end you should have installed the screen with the earth wire. Heatshrinked the earth and screen wires. All you have made is a three core mains cable with no RFI protection. Expensive plugs and cable for no benefit. They look expensive but that's all these expensive power cables are about alot of the time. You might want to fit a ferrite core to this cable to at least give it some RFI protection. Totally agree with you I make all my cables with quality materials, it cost so much less and performs just as well.
Try them without earth...as I said in other comments, the dynamics are better without a ground. Interference might he an issue but it's rare, especially if you are using a power conditioner like me.
@@anadialog well prior to using screened power cords mine were UK 13amp cables. So already have done that. Also I would add have I noticed a real change before and after. No not really, extremely subtle but as I made my own I have not wasted lots of cash in the process. I have one power cord pre conditioner then from the conditioner to components.
@@anadialog it's great experimenting. Some work some don't. Knowing you have nice quality materials just means things should work as they are supposed too 👍
Hi China Tim, Sure! Good 'softer' choices are: - ELECAUDIO CS-361B Power Cable OCC PTFE 3x2.5mm² Triple shielding Ø 17mm (around 25$ x 1 meter...these are a little bulky though) - FURUTECH FP-3TS20 Power cable OCC Copper (Alpha) Ø 14.3mm (around 80$ x 1 meter) - YARBO SP-2200 Power cable Silver plated Copper Ø 11mm (around 45$ x 1 meter....these are not OCC copper but they are good). Check the prices and Ebay, they may be different according to the country you live in...
I see a bit of a stir-up about the shielding of the power-cable. Yes, if you use the cable to power a power amplifier, the shielding is not necessary and indeed it lowers the dynamic of music. If, on the other hand, you use the power cord to power a preamplifier or a cd-player or DAC, I recommend to you a shielded cable. Also, a shielded power cable is necessary to power the turntable. I am not an advocate of power-conditioners because they too lower the dynamic of the music and they also have a negative effect on transients and harmonics, on the richness of the sound, it makes the sound dry. I have tested some P.S. Audio power conditioner in the past with some Naim gear and it was not good, not good at all. A power conditioner may do a good job on audio gear that has lower current consumption, like preamplifiers, DACs, cd-players.
Sad that Nordost stoped making my favourite AC-cable before I understood that it WAS my absolute favourite. Their WyreWizard Magus. I like that cheaper cable more than their Blue Heaven.
I'm an electrical engineer and I can tell you without doubt that fancy little wire from your wall socket to your amp will make no difference at all, not unless you"ve paid big bucks for one. Then you will hear a difference. Only you will hear the difference but no one else will.
According to conventional wisdom I can't see how the super mains cable can make a difference, other than screening the electrical field of the cable which will decrease pick up by any nearby (imperfectly) screened signal cables and equipment. As others have said it's hard to logic how a short piece of special cable can compensate for standard circuit cables etc and thousands of standard copper windings in the input transformer of the equipment.However as we have a very limited model of what electricity really is, I hold back from saying definitively that such a thing cannot make a difference....
Am a electrical engineer and I can tell you that It most definitely will make a difference I've made my own everything they all sound better lol you have to understand that free cheap power cables that come with your gear are rubbish
@@mfr58it makes a difference because your power supply for the Frist time in it's life gets clean power less resistance so more of a dark background and better base and hi end resolution
I know that they a difficult to find in the US. I think you should try ebay I see they have the 102. Otherwise I don't know. In Europe it is easy to find. Sorry about that.
Grazie innazitutto per l'ottimo tutorial. Da poco mi sono iscritto e guardo alcuni dei tuoi video. Vorrei porti due quesiti, dato che ultimamente sto "giocando" con un Purist Audio Musaeus, un Kubala Sosna Fascination (circa 600€) e ho inoltre letto molto bene del Black Sand Violet (colore viola, acquistabile nuovo per 400€ sul sito ufficiale) : 1. Che tipo di miglioramenti ha portato questo cavo nella tua catena? In che direzione? Miglior Nero/Contrasto? caratteristica in particolare o è equilibrato "top to bottom"? Miglior Velocità e PRat? L'estensione in alto ha subuto un roll-off? E' un cavo che predilige una gamma di frequenze o qualche 2. Conosci i cavi che ho citato sopra? Potresti descrivermi se il tuo cavo autoscostruito si pone in confronto a questi? E' all'altezza? 3. Cosa ne pensi riguardo il cavo del progetto TNT Audio acquistabile su Ebay per circa 36€ rispetto al tuo cavo? Hai avuto modo di provarlo?
Caro Marco, scusami per il ritardo con cui ti rispondo! Vengo subito alle risposte: 1- Il cavo l'ho utilizzato per un amplificatore per cuffie valvolare. I miglioramenti che ho notato sono stati soprattutto nella timbrica e dinamica. Le valvole sono sembrate meno taglienti e più dettagliate e fluido. Le tue richieste sono molto dettagliate, forse troppo! ;-) Posso però dirti che non ho notato nessuna enfasi nelle alte frequenze. Odio i cavi brillanti! Il rame OCC a mio avviso è quello più neutrale di tutti e in molti stanno tornado al solid core per le sue qualità dinamiche e neutrali. 2- Purtroppo non li conosco ma sono andato a vedere le specifiche. Wow! Sembrano dei cavi davvero ottimi. Complimenti! Soprattutto il Musaeusin OCC con trattamento criogenico. Per l'altro ho trovato meno informazioni ma sembra promettere bene dalle recensioni. Penso che la geometria dei tuoi cavi sia superiore a quello di questo cavo del video. Potresti provare ad andare al top di gamma della Oyaide, il Tunami. Quello dovrebbe reggere il paragone senza svuotarti il portafogli! 3- Per quanto riguarda il TTS di TNT lascerei perdere. Il progetto a mio avviso è obsoleto. Penso che tu sappia che sono un convinto sostenitore del rame OCC o PCOCCC. Con quello tutto ha una marcia in più e se fai il cavo da solo ti costa il giusto, se prendi cavi già fatti, ti costano un rene!
ana[dia]log La tua risposta è stata molto utile ti ringrazio. Posseggo già un TNT e non è malvagio ma se con il cavo che mi hai appena suggerito posso ottenere prestazioni paragonabili a quelle dei cavi che ho elencato direi che è un ottima cosa. Grazie mille !
What's your experience with bi-wiring? I tried with very good results (more definition) BUT the improvement could be justified by the substitution of the gilded plaque which is included in speakers.
You mean in speakers...actually I have a tri-wire speaker (ATC-SCM35). Removing the jumpers was incredible...then I found a true tri-wire cable...simply amazing! I know a lot of people think it's snakeoil but I do hear a lot of detail and ambience that not al normal cables have!
Hi many thanks for sharing! Which European country are you from? And where do you source the cables as often shipping and handling is more costly tuant thé câble itself. Thank you for reading
Hello! I live in Italy. Check the video description of the video as well as this other one for material sources: th-cam.com/video/u3EPL6hI_H4/w-d-xo.html
Focus on copper screw and nut, gets rid of most of the emi from magnetic screws & nuts. Connector also most loss occur there and solder with 10% silver, 99.9% are brass connectors out there with only 25 iacs. Thus now available Tellurium copper 95 iacs will get you that improvement.
Power cords are like tone controls, they can either enhance or detract from the sound...it all depends on the particular components used and where you place your power cable(s). Caution must always be used when mixing or matching various cables! It is also wise to change them in or out incrementally to discern whatever changes. I currently have a power cord on my amplifier and power conditioner, but used nowhere else. A noticeable improvement of dynamics was the biggest change with a darker/silent background. Cheers!
Hi and thanks OCD HiFi guy Mike a pro hi end cable manufacturer also on TH-cam fills the terminals with a mineral mix and removes all the inner screws. Is this unnecessary?
![ANA[DIA]LOG](http://yt3.ggpht.com/50CpmGNilS8aoMlarZVhI_GxRDoZdbj4ZgwCMZXg-Rq2PrEvCytlE6RVyLUrNY-rwE_sAlZ1Zw=s48-c-k-c0x00ffffff-no-rj)
ATTENTION!: If you want a safe cable you should connect the GROUND to the external SHIELD/braid. This will avoid electric shock.
SHIELDING (Updated):
Since I have received a lot of criticism on my decision on NOT to shield the cable here is a short explanation that may help you to decide what to do.
I am adding an important video (th-cam.com/video/ekR5-tUk0tA/w-d-xo.html) released by Paul McGowan ho clearly states how shielding is negative for audio quality in power cords. PS Audio does add shielding but very very distant from the conductor, which makes sense. I say go all the way and if you do not have interference go with out any shielding. The audio signal will greatly improve.
Here is an interesting article that confirms the presence of this issue and its cause: www.empiricalaudio.com/computer-audio/technical-papers/myths-and-snake-oil
Unfortunately shielding has two downsides:
1 - it lowers the dynamics
In fact, for example 'Audience', one of the best powercable producers out there, has always produced unshielded cables. Only recently they started to introduce some special shielding.
2 - it can vehicle humms
The best is to try without, especially if, like me, you are using a power conditioner. If you hear sone interference, just connect the braid to the ground. Very easy and fast to do in a powercord!
This is my personal experience.
Shielded power cables causing either downside 1 or 2 is an improper termination/application of said power cable. Anyone selling $1k+ power cables is selling audiophool jewelry.
What kind of wiring is in your house and what kind of ground if if is not good power cable is worth nothing think about it lmao
That is dhy I highly suggest to use a mains or power filter: th-cam.com/video/elU1cEMLjYE/w-d-xo.html
@@Adam.Brunkhorst Babe ruth couldn't of hit that one home any better lol!!....Some people still believe in Fairy Tales
@@merronphillips7079 Yeah and then they plug it in to a $4 Walmart outlet
Much appreciated! Today I finished assembling the power cable as per your instructions. I'm happy to report that the investment paid off really well. Thanks a lot!
Je hebt uiteraard, tussen je oren, nu een geweldig geluid!
how does it sound?
Also proper wire gauge is very important. In the US a standard 15 amp circuit, by code, employs 14awg and a 20 amp circuit 12awg. By knowing what is run from your breaker panel to your outlets will help you determine the final leg to your components.
Even the videos that come on your channel I watched them all to cooperate in thanking you for making those cables
I......could not believe how easy You made it look. Thank you sooooooo much
Thank you so much Galindo!
I made one of these for my toaster. My Pop Tarts have never tasted better!
Good job! 🤣🤣🤣
Genius!
Did they make them sweeter richer or did they just crunch better
Mostly the crunching sound. As advertised, these cables are acoustically superior!
😂😂
Actually gold isn't such a good conductor like copper and silver silver is the number one conductor followed by copper the reason why people use gold is because it doesn't corrode and therefore it protects the connections but it's definitely not the number one conductor
Hey GSUS HC! Thank you for your comment. I can see that you did not see my other videos. I have already said what you just claimed here, take a look: th-cam.com/video/91cCufCB9JQ/w-d-xo.html
In the end, due to the decay of the other metals, gold is best. Silver has its numbers, and it is probably even better in high quality connectors, but strage lubricants are used to stop corrosion and we do not know exactly how much they interfere in the transmission. I use both!
Maybe use cold soldered/ crimped cabling. Corrosion is important, but purity is what counts for the audio (= also very very slow corrosion). You are maybe right on the lubricants, f.e. Audioquest uses copper/ silver paste in respect to copper/ silver cable, but that is for better conductivty and I don't know how it will affect the sound on a long term. Even bending of a cable will change it's properties! Change copper/ silver cables to make it sound like you want. High-end cables are composed (different materials) to bring a flat response as much as possible. So it is a matter of taste and you have to test as long as your not satisfied. The diameter of the cable also is responsible for the sensitivity of interference. So shielding (and grounding) is just as important, and the type of shielding, will change the sound too. It's a balance of the entire chain, so test thinner vs fatter cables as well! You're too deep in it already hahaha Good luck my friend....
In my experience the cables that have a mechanical part on the end (speakers/ mic) will have the most audible effect when changed. My condenser mic is known for it's thinny high end (great for recording high frequencies) until I replaced the XLR cable. (Audioquest in this case). Man, the difference is night and day. Noise levels are negligable now and it sounds warmer to say the least, without comprimise of the high frequencies. That being said it still is a compromise.
I'm using gold connectors, because the sound is best to me. I don't like silver, highs are harsh and unnatural to my ears. People like silver, because of the details. I like gold, because of the musicality.
I think I agree with that...
Oh, but it costs 30€. How can you flex on the people you annoy by being reasonable? 🤷🏽♂️
Thanks for sharing, it is explained very clear. I already ordered the materials to make one myself.
What about the wiring from the breaker panel to the receptacle?
Hifi and power cabling , we won't win. If we say we can't hear it, they say we are deaf or don't know how to listen. Best is just shut up and sell them the crap and collect the commission.
Clear instruction and encouraging video. Safe operation. A few tweaks for audience make it better 1. Terminate the metal shield at power source (wall plug) side ground connector when grounding wire is inside the shield. 2. Cut off the excess cleaner before wrap them with dialectic tape. Op has a time limit:)
Thanks for your input but I did not connect the shield on purpose. I know its more dangerous but the sound will be much better, trust me...and if you don't check the video Paul McGowan just released on this topic: th-cam.com/video/ekR5-tUk0tA/w-d-xo.html
I'm an audio engineer, not an audiophile.
Good shielded power cables are important to isolate the power signal going to the equipment.
BUT IT HAS TO BE COMING FROM A POWER CONDITIONER/FILTER !!
Using them with crappy home depot power extension is just going to deliver the bad power signal very well.
lol good point
Isn't this mostly about making sure that (close to your audio equipment) the mains power cable doesn't cause too much interference on the nearby audio interconnect cables? So it's not about having cleaner power, it's about letting the dirty power noise leak towards the nearby analog cables carrying very sensitive audio signals.
"Good shielded power cables are important to isolate the power signal going to the equipment". Twaddle.
I see it like this. The mains supply to your house has travelled hundreds of miles from the power station to your local sub-station. From there, it's probably gone to a ring main in your street then into your mains box where it's split into spurs such as downstairs power, upstairs lights etc. You're saying that changing the last metre of your electricity's journey has changed the sound ? Your new cable certainly isn't acting as a filter.
If so, then I can only suggest that what's happened is either:
1. your old cable was somehow faulty possibly picking up RF interference, or, more likely..
2. the placebo effect.
There's no such thing as audiophile electricity. What's most important is that your system doesn't share its mains spur with appliances such as fridges, washing machines, vacuum cleaners etc. Nice looking cable though.
Hi Someblocke, as I replied to others, first of all you need a good cable that can serve you gear when it needs more power or less, high quality shielding (not used in this video), preserve the quality of the electrivity that comes NOT from my wall sockets but from my main filters, which deliver pure and stable power. Here is a video I made on this topic: th-cam.com/video/elU1cEMLjYE/w-d-xo.html
I think it would be interesting to dismantle a generic power cable in order to measure the diameter of the cables and the (lack of) quality of the connections. Then we will rush to the cable store to build one like yours!
Dynamics may seem better when not shielded, but the fact is that is effect may be artificial. Noise below audible level may be giving this feeling of added dynamics but in the long term it is making the sound more fatiguing. I prefer the relaxed sound a shielded cable brings. There is no problem with the dynamics. Do you honestly think if you measure dynamics, peak vs min dB level with a shielded vs non shielded cable that you will see any measurable difference? You most certainly will not. The unshielded cable simply sounds more superficially dynamic and this will come to the detriment of long term listening pleasure and a natural sound.
If shielding isn't properly done and isolated from the conductor the sound is going to be lifeless compared to the same without. No fatigue, it's the signal in its purest form. Shielding will introduce artificial color to the sound. If you enjoy that be my guest!
@@anadialog I will take properly done shielding, thanks.
I built a pair of one meter power cords a few years ago. These were for class D monoblocks so I decided to use shielding because of the switchmode power supplies these units have. I connected the shielding only at the plug end not the amp end because i did not want the shield to carry any current.
I've watched this video on three different occasions now, and I still come to the same uncertainty regarding the cable's inability to twist, as I presume it could make it annoying trying to plug it into the amp and power board without having to move stuff around.
Do you recommend any other OCC based power cables due to it being nearly three years later, or even more important, if you had seen any of your regular vendors who made a male AS 3112 plugs for Australians.
Thanks.
Of course! That is just an example. The best of the best, unbeatable for performance and sonics it the Yarbo SP-1100PW....simply speechless. All OCC and teflon insulation. A dream cable at a right price, at least here in Europe. I used this for my high-end equipment!
I purchased an SKW OCC power cable based on your recommendation of their speaker cables. I am now considering opening up my Tripp-Lite Isolation Transformer to replace its stock power cable w/ a custom made OCC power cable probably from SKW to connect it to the mains. - Cheerio
Nice! Thanks for sharing that!
Electrical insulation Test Must do! The cable you used does it meet electrical safety standards for your country? This may be nit picky but SAFETY FIRST. What about your house electrical system, So in your house there may be up to 100M+ of cable from the fuse box which will be made of ordinary materials for a normal house in your country Not to mention the cables from the street and so forth,. So what difference would the last meter do? I have seen house earth connection replaced/repaired in a older house to fix a safty issue and the end user said there AV systems worked so much better...
Check the other answers here to your reasonable question please!
The answer to your question is....
NOTHING.
I don’t know much about it but, if the electricity coming out of the wall socket has noise, does a good power cable minimize the noise? Also ideally should every component have a power cable? I appreciate your time in responding not just for me, perhaps other people have the same questions. Thank you!!’
Good quality power cables, IMHO, are very important, especially for amplifiers. Moreover, they should be paird with good quality power filters: th-cam.com/video/elU1cEMLjYE/w-d-xo.html
nice, but if you don't connect the shield to the ground (do it in one end) then it will actually work as an antenna causing more interference :/ maybe not a big problem with the short lenght of cable you have there
It will also act as an antenna if you connect the shield on both ends.
Pontus Åkesson Which end is the best one to connect? Thx
@@zhiyaoyang3389 The Shuko end (the wall plug )
Shielding at plug end connection only is necessary. Even using a good power unit with effective filters, you are cleaning up the point before at the wall. The power cable with proper shielding, after the power unit, is to shield off interferences at its surrounding (electro magnetic field, radio frequencies, etc). I used not-thin single core copper wires insulated by solid teflon with two shieldings (braided to ground, and foil). I am happy with the musical sounds.
The antenna wont happen unless by capactive coupling, but the whole idea of shielding doesn't work. But the author said he is not an EE. so trying his best. the interesting fact is he heard an effect. So mains cable is important ! Which as an EE i know to be true -without snake oil peddling which i hate.
So did you substitute the cable from the wall plug to the power station as well? This is a terrible load of crap.
Kind of a silly argument if you have a decent power conditioner.
In fact! Here it is: th-cam.com/video/elU1cEMLjYE/w-d-xo.html
@@jondrubin .. they suck.
A load of crap in your opinion - not mine.
This is best to be done if you don't own the nuclear power stations. Some new home owners in some parts of the world would have done hi-fi wiring lay down and associated electrical supplies hardware as the houses being built.
For old houses, one would choose to manage cleanliness and stability of power supply like the "good" power cables. It is fun and appropriate.
Is it worth the extra cost on audio power cords if we opt for cryogenically treated connectors?
Thank you very much.
I never noticed much an improvement. If it is there good, I wouldn't look out for it.
Du hast die Stecker verkehrt herum angeschlossen. Stromfluss,wenn nicht anders markiert,immer gleich Schriftrichtung des Kabels. Abschirmung nur am Schuko anschließen. Ansonsten schönes video.
Don't quite understand these thick copper cables - what cable is in your walls - do you have this kind (gage) cable all the way to the fuse table of the house? And what type of cable (gage) is the service provider providing to your fuse table? Or am I missing something here? Do you really ear a difference in your audio equipment? One would assume that it would not benefit to go any higher (gage vise) than the smallest one on your way to the "source" of the electricity .... Just asking. Thanks for great, entertaining episodes!!
The point here is to use high quality OCC copper and good quality connectors, possibly with a power filter. Then you will really make a change in your system. The cable can be solid or multistrand, no problem. This oyaide bulk cablebus just an example. I love to use all different kinds of cables of OCC copper or OCC silver.
Hello there, thank you for the great video, I want to ask though
Looking on the video, you are using a "3 * 1.5mm with stranded shielding" as the base, but only using the 3 cable with no shield.
What I want to ask, can I use standard NYY cable with only 3 * 2.5mm cable with exact plug type in this video? iec+...sucko? And no braided shield too within the cable
Thanks in advance
Sure! For security it is better to connect the ground to the shield.
I would try to use high quality OCC copper. I recently recommend my favorite for DIY cables: th-cam.com/video/zRkZEAYwIGA/w-d-xo.html
@@anadialog thank for the reply!
Hmm, I don't know if I can find this "3 x ?.?mm with braided shield" in my country that's why I ask, can it still be used,
For now, I'm still waiting either plug arrive from overseas order, but yeah, to think even for 1m high quality cable can cost me more than 40$, is fearsome...
AWESOME!! You just saved me a ton of money. I have to make 3 cables. Thank you so much for including where to buy. What an excellent channel!!!
Thanks!
Ciao Guido, ma il cavo Yarbo che vorrei prendere per il mio Amplificatore valvolare (2 mt), può andar bene anche per il prephono (black cube) e il giradischi sl 1210 GR? Così ne ordinerei 4 metri (2+1+1)...
Intendi sempre per l'alimentazione, certo! Mi sembra un'ottima soluzione! È il cavo perfetto...difficile da preparare però, occhio a non incidere i filamenti quando li sbucci!
@@anadialog il metraggio è importante? Oggi il corriere mi consegnerà 4 metri di cavo YARBO, inizialmente pensavo di prendere 2 metri (vista la distanza) per l'ampli valvolare, 1 metro per il prephono e 1 metro per il giradischi (ho preso anche 3-3 IEC-Schuko della ELECAUDIO); però forse riesco a recuperare da ognuno qualche centimetro per far uscire fuori un quarto cavo (per il lettore Bluray/CD). Per da questo posso ridurre il cavo per l'ampli a 1,40 metri forse anche un po' meno (vedo in corso di montaggio), 80 cm per il prephono, 80 per il giradischi e mi avanzarebbe così un metro per il lettore CD... pensi sia cosa buona, oppure un buon cavo di alimentazione richiede almeno un metro di cablaggio?
È un argomento delicato. Ho sentito costruttori dire di usare almeno 1.5m. Secondo me, dopo anni che me li faccio da solo, più sono corti e meglio è come tutti i cavi. Per esperienza ti dico che spesso uno riusa i cavi e li sposta. Se sono troppo corti non puoi più utilizzarli con altro oppure le prese troppo lontane.
@@anadialog ottimo! Alla fine ho ricavato 4 cavi, quello per il giradischi ci sta giusto giusto, 50 cm... così è uscito quello per il lettore CD, solo che avevo iec e schuko scarse, non ci entravano tutti i filamenti di cavo... li ho ridotti alla fine... poi rimedierò.
Al momento, con breve ascolto, mi sento di dire di essere soddisfatto... forse le medie frequenze troppo squillanti... domani proverò meglio, poi mi sa che sarà necessario anche un po' di rodaggio no?
Assolutamente si! Dagli un po' di giorni...
Nice shielded cable. Just too bad that the version you make doesn't use the shielding at all. As you clearly state, you're not a tech. Also the magic cable you have must really work wonders, since your electrical wires in your building probably isn't more that ordinary electricity house wiring. From your circuit breaker to the wall socket, there might be 10 meters or more. The wall socket is by chance not gold plated. So that nice cable doesn't do anything to the sound quality. And the mains filters you talk about in your first video doesn't do much to your sound either. If your hifi equipment is of a decent quality there will already be build in mains filters.
So the what you might hear as better sound quality is based on the psycological effect of the price you have paid for the piece of expensive cable.
Next time you make a cable and want to shield it, try to use the shield and connect that to the ground connection in one end of the connector, and only one end, as you might get a groundloop if you connect it to both ends.
By the way, try to unscrew the lid of your amplifier and take a look at the wiring inside it. Then you might get an idea that all those thick expensive cables aren't that important, at least not the mains cables.
As I have already answered to others, you don't always shield just because you have a ground wire in your cable...in power cables active shileding is nit always a good idea in terms of sound...turning to the mains filter....geez! That was one if the best purchases of my life. The change in sound, especially before when I had a worse setup, the increase in quality was stunning.
Agree with you. For who that do not beleive that only changing power cable can significantly improve the soud, just try it man! I can't explained either but I've tired and it does significantly improved.
@@prathanw7091 I just had mine. One for the amp (Outlaw RR2160) and the second for the CD player (Emotiva ERC-3) and man.... the changes were unbelievable! I'm an electrical tech with some college in the field and more than 20 years of experience and still I was not a believer... until I tried them.
@@JulioCSolar You must be kidding right? Unbelieveable changes? How bad are the power-sections of your equipment that actually changing the power-cable has so much influence!. I can only conclude that before the change in power-cable, your equipment must have been sounding really awfull! Otherwise a UNBELIEVABLE cahnge would be impossible.
Your claim is unbelievable.
@@Rob-rg4oe forget unbelievable, it's NOT POSSIBLE 🤣😂🤣
got any tips for people that cant change power cables not all vintage u can change the power cables becuse its built into it
Well, you can change it inside. You just need to desolder it. If it is ruined that is the best thing to do. As an upgrade I would focus on a good power conditioner or at least get a good connector.
Use that cable for my electric fan & WOW! IT GIVES MORE CHILLS
can i use this type of cable to be used with a CPU power supply?
Sure!
@@anadialog great thank you, i will proceed to buy all item soon, but where to find the nylon sleeve for this type of cable? and what is the diameter for the cable?
Nice instructional. Anyone who has tried a better quality power cable knows it does make a difference by lowering the noise floor and rejecting interference. Cheers!
I wonder if in the standard power cables that come with audio devices (amplifiers, etc) have the shield and ground wire joined on BOTH ends?
Probably most of them do, for security reasons.
hello, pardon my ignorance but how do you guys deal with equipment without an IEC inlet ? like my receiver for example, the only way for me to make this happen would be to open up said receiver and solder the power cable.... any ideas ?
Older gear has in most cases its own cable. Yes, you could do that and substitute the cable or drill a hole for the inlet but you really need to know what you are doing besides decreasing the value of the machine.
@@anadialog thank you, guess I’d need to open up the receiver and check it out myself...
What is the equivalent AWG guage of the wires? Doesn't look that thick - maybe 12 or 10? What guage woud you use for an amp? What Is the theory behind needing such cable? How does it make any difference?
We are in the multiple 0 area (below 1) if we are talking overall diameter. Very big cables, for less resistance and higher capacity, plus there is more space for insulation. The single conductor, I don't remember.
We must change our perspective and stop saying there are hundreds of meters from the power plant up to our homes or studios. A good power cord is the first meter or so from the amplifier perspective, a very important part.
@@anadialog no just the conductor awg.
You should connects the shield to ground on one end (the AC wall outlet). Also, with Schuko its easy to swap live and neutral, thus causing current flow between devices. These both need attention when you want to improve sound.
Thanks. For the reason I did not connect the shield check the video description, for phase, I agree and always put a mark on the hot side. Check this: th-cam.com/video/VhhRPmt47j8/w-d-xo.html
Don't forgot to add the quarts crystals ! They must surround the conductors all the way through from one end to another for truly improved dynamics and depth.
🤣🤣🤣
I did the same with all my audio hardware (not that quality) but I changed the standard cables for better ones and like you said! It changes the sound dramatically! Sharper, brighter, more dynamics, bigger Soundstage, more volume and etc and etc.... I highly recommend to upgrade your audio cables
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Only the speaker cables make a difference.
It's an important part of the system if you want it to look fancy. The top most important factors are: The room, speakers, power amp, pre-amp, and the audio source. Of the cables, the speaker cables are most important, then the interconnect. The least important is the power cable. The power cables that comes with the equipment is more than good enough for the task. Use your money on speakers and amplifier.
Hi-end needs to cost a lot for reasons that sound confusing, stop making sense :)
Really appreciated, thanks for your video. I'll try to make this cable (matte I'll use less rigid wires) and I'll compare with the np one. Homemade products give more satisfaction :-). Greatings from Italy
Great! Give us some feedback!
Ok great, you have an awesome 2 ft power cable. But what are you going to do about the 25 ft of cheap copper 14/2 in your walls or the miles of power lines that aren't super duper aligned power crystal copper?
That is a common misconception. You must change the perspective. The cable is the first meter for the amp, the most important of all, especially in a push-pull configuration.
Where can I find cable and plugs to make these? I am in the US. Also I have a two prong Pioneer SC-81 AV receiver that I want a cable upgrade for. How should I deal with that?
I think I miawednyour comment...sorry about that! It's probably too late but a good starting point is for the US is this one: www.thecableco.com/diy-cables-and-connectors.html
I also have a two-prong power cable on my integrated amp, and the manufacturer's tech said to get a decent-grade IEC C14 inlet (Amazon sells them) and ground the middle prong to the chassis.
Just a little heads up in terms of country specific regulations: here in Germany it is not allowed to use rigid cables for connecting electric devices to the wall plug. Rigid cables are only allowed to be used for permanent installation...
Interesting! I did not know that!
I’d love to see a vid about power conditioners and power regenerators.
Love the channel!
Thanks Nick! Here it is: th-cam.com/video/elU1cEMLjYE/w-d-xo.html
it's my first video, very strange! ;-)
Nice video and explanation. You are correct in not connecting the screen at the IEC end., But you didn't as you should only the mains plug end, this would have provided screening of the cable, would have ensured low noise screening. As you have done, it there is no shielding! I would have also use heatshrink instead of insulation tape. Solid core cable does deliver better power than stranded but it's very inflexible.
Hi Chris, I did not connect the screen to keep the dynamics of the cable as best as possible. When you connect the screen, you obviously have a better screening from interference but if you are in a good spot with clean energy, infact I use power filters, the results are much better without connected it. Check the video description for further info. Several cable producers follow this philosophy.
I've sold loads of these Oyaide cables, this one and Tunami, they should always be sheilded at the wall plug end.
Hi there, yes you are right...if usee that way. I tene not to use a shield when I am using a power filter (no wall socket). The dynamics are a better that way!
If you use single ended triode amplifiers they do not draw more current from the wall outlet during loud music passages so the power cable is less demanding than a solid state amplifier which draws more current. Also, a large enough capacitor bank takes care of momentary brief loud passages. Proper power supply filters: transformers which isolate, filter capacitors, and chokes all remove noise from appliances on the power line.
These considerations having been made, the see-through plugs themselves look good to me, even if some think I have bad taste for liking them. You can buy different colored neon bulbs you can put in these plugs (with at least 100 k resistors to the neon bulb) so they light up when the power is live.
Good isolation from the wall socket to the amplifier. But how about the rest of the wiring? As far as I know the rest is just 2.5mm² Copper wire with basic isolation, picking up noise just as well. How does this small length of 'hi-end' wire help you?
Hi Uberhood, the answer to this relevant question is in my first video: th-cam.com/video/elU1cEMLjYE/w-d-xo.html
There's a vid here on YT of an elderly Japanese man who paid to have the power line to his home replaced to improve the audio in his home, but I still dont get how that insulates him from the factories and other businesses sharing the same power grid. I'd also be looking to isolate myself from every refrigerator, television and bandsaw in the neighbourhood ;)
The answer to this common question is divided in two. Good cables interface between your gear and the power supply. It plays a role and must correctly respond to the gear need of power. Plus, a goid cable IMHO should always be attached to a good mains filter. Yhat chsnges completely your system (check my first video for this topic) and in thst case yoy want to deliver that good power thr best way as possible to your gear with a goid cable!
You need to connect the shielding leeds to grond on the wall connector!
Yes, to be protected by electrocution. But not to get the best out of your component. Plus, we have dozens of stuff with bipolar cables, not everything is grounded.
How many hours need cable for warm Up? 100 hours or less? Thanks
You mean to burn in? Around 40 or so IMO
You can get even better sound by change a few of your steps. The change are wary great. I think that the improvement will be the same as you already have experienced on top of what you have now!
There are two shielding, that you just removed, try this instead.
1) connect the outer most shield to the earth, but only at the amplifier side.
2) the inner most shield. In both ends, du you solder a 0.1uF capacitor and solder it to ground.
Great suggestions! Thank you! I will try that for my next cable.
Great, I would really like to hear what you say about it:-) By the way, in some seldom situations you could use a 0.047uF instead, but it is important that they are marked as the same value! :-)
Have you tried my version of your cable yet? :-)
LOL have just tried a trick more, that really do make an improvement!!
It is a lot greater work but imagine "My" version of your cable but with a stranded thin 18 AWG silver wire wrapped around the main cable, under the shields.
And add some padding to make more space under the shielding.
The silver do get better heights and air while the solid core give better base and the extra padding do add to that effect!
EDIT: forgot to say that the silver and cobber cable shall connect in each end.
Not yet! This other version seems complex...can you send me a picture ir a drawing on my fscebook page wirh messenger?
Sorry am properly the only one in the world without any FB, Twitter and so on.
Warning it is a LOT of work, but the sound!!!
I will try to make a better description:-)
1) you take two solid core OFC + OCC wire and wrap them together (only 6 or 12 turn per inch, 12 gives larger rejection and punch but unfortunately also less room in the sound)
2) put heat-schrink over them.
3) take a 18 AWG stranded silver cable and wrap it around the main wires (4 turns per inch if main 6 else 8 if main 12) and connect the silver wire to the main copper wires.
4) now tightly wrap cotton or wool around so that the fabric are running between the silver-cable turns but do not cross over the silver wire. Do that until the fabric and the silver wire are at same height
5) Put heat shrink over it all again
6) now wrap alu-foil around the whole cable
7) Put heat shrink over it all again
8) Put braided steel tubing over that
9) Do as described above with the shielding
10) Last you can decorate it all as you see fit.
I know it is a lot, but my amp has just thrown away its tweeter-blanket, got rid of it's astma in the mids and kicked the base so hard it had to visit the doctor!! :-)
Trust me, it's above high end, it's reference!!
EDIT: forgot to tell that the two shields now act as a capacitor in the whole length and blocks any noise or humm from the outside, while at the same time stops reflections inside the cable!
Good point Ivar. Also soldering the connections once screwed in, with silver solder (WBT is good for this). Better sound and the screws never loosen this way too.
Hi Alex, Yes Ivar is right to get better shielding but I would not recommend to solder the connections. Soldering material is always a negative addition to a cable. A full contact through crimping or other non-soldering solutions is always better. Nevertheless, if you do have connection problems then some soldering will greatly help!
The connectors you talk about here are not meant for the US consumers I believe right ? so what would be a comparable ones for the guys who want to get these high end connectors ? any recommendations ? Pl let me know.
True, look for the same brands. They develop plugs for all countries. In any case, you just need a high quality construction and at least gold connectors for good performance and durability. Invest mainly in the conductors.
A year later, how is it going with you snakeoil cable?
It's doing great! IMHO you should address your snakeoil concerns to those who charge 500$ or 1000$ or more for 1m of cable...
Thanks for this. I look forward to making mine. A question. Is there no corrosion protection oil on the connectors that needs to be cleaned off?
Not if you peel them from new bulk cables.
I tried to make a power cable with some heavy solid gauge cable Oyaide Tsunami and it was very difficult (impossible) to attach the UK plug or my right angled Furutech IEC. Do not go too low on the AWG as will cause my issues.
True...they are extremely stiff...
Ciao, quel connettore IEC riesce a stare dietro al Technics 1200 GR? Tu hai il 1200 G e sai come è l'attacco della IEC, angolato e nascosto dietro-sotto il giradischi.
Ora non ce l'ho sottomano ma penso proprio di si, almeno nel 1200G. Mi pare di averci messo roba anche più grossa...
isnt there potentially crappy wiring going from the xfomrer to the outlet then 2 ft of 'high quality' conductor?
That is a common mistake. You must use the amplifier's perspective (or other component). It's the FIRST meter for him!
I tried to understand this because you ask a good question and shunyata cables website has a good answer but I needed more so I looked further so here's my attempt as I understand it because more info helps finally solve this right?
Think of power flowing from your component and the power source as a circuit. It circulates. The power is alternating current. So that means it changes direction 50 to 60 times a second. Google water analogy ac current for a good visual. There should be a gif of it.
Next it is important to understand the component is drawing power not receiving it so what that means is it is doing the pumping in the circuit because it demands the power. The power source is letting the current flow as the component pushes it and it makes its way around to the component. Because the component is the one drawing power and the power cable is the first thing connected to it. That cable decides how good of a boost you're going to get before the rest messes with the sine wave. Adding the distortion. The better the cable the more it will resist the distortion and reflections and stuff like that.
Hi! I have question. Is it possible to buy USA type power plugs. Does this product sell USA type power plugs?
Yes, of course!
@@anadialog Ok! Thank you for your answer! ☺
You are very welcome!
I really am interested if you could compare this cable that has solid conductors with some version of the same quality from Oyaide, but the not solid core, multi litz wire, to compare the dynamics, the speed, and the richness of the sound. I've only used litz power cables and I am curious what is your take on this matter. I believe that you have realized by now that I am another compulsively obsessed music lover and audio gear lover.
Hi there, I have these: th-cam.com/video/K5tFrlCvn3o/w-d-xo.html
Which are very good, especially the OCC copper one and they are litz. But they are interconnects not power cables. In my experience quality OCC copper it silver cables like Neotech, Oyaide, Furutech, Zapfino, Ramm etc. is all you need!
Hi thanks a lot for the very valuable advice. In your experience which type of components can benefit more from a better power cord ? my feeling is the digital ones, i.e. cd players and dacs. I guess the cable acts as a filter and suppress some mains noise. But i do not have equipment to verify this feeling. Regards, gino
Hi Gino, thanks! Actually, for me, the best place to start with is the power amp and preamp (or integrated amp, phono amp, headphones amp etc.)...then all the rest!
Thank you very much again. I will try some DIY soon following your directions. Regards, gino
I upgraded to Nordost Valhalla 2 power cables and new power distribution and Nordost Frey 2 speaker cables. I will try to make an updated recording of the new cables...My partner is into high end cables and Hifi and listening to Madness or Depech Mode, the extra 3D dimensions were produced, more details were apparent, sounds of individual instruments were separated very easyily to hear the difference. I purchase Nordost Sort Kones an placed these under cd Central area, one other under the power inlet, another under the output side. Definitely more defined and clearer sound. Where do you stop? Enjoy the music. The purer the copper, the less the neutrons have stopping the transmission. Dirty copper or cheap copper is no good. Also termination to stop eddy currents , make asymmetrical at degree angles. Tuned lengths for the 50/60 Herz cycles. You need to know where to cut the cable.
Dave Jones, thank you again for your interesting comments. I'm not sure I understand the last part...do you Think bullet plugs and alike are good or not? Explain better the cable cutting procedure!
i just upgraded my spotify to premium!
Hi. Thank you for your helpful video. Actually I have 2 conductors like your (in this vid) and a power cable that has 7 wires as identical and equal and All 7 wires are all transparent and without color. How can I select and connect them to connectors? Thanks
Just decide three coples and stick with them, one is the hit pole, one is the cold pole and one is ground. The 7th cable should be connected to the external brake. You decide, for a dafe cable it should be connected to the ground only on the source side. Otherwise none....
Yeah... miles and miles of aluminum cables since the power plant until our houses... and many more feet of poor copper inside the wall until the outlet... but the last foot will make "all the difference". Audiophile or audiophooled?
Hi Chistian, this is the 30th time I answer to this same comment. I use a power conditioner or mains filter that I discussed in my first video. This is a very important part of a hi-fi system (th-cam.com/video/elU1cEMLjYE/w-d-xo.html). The optimized and clean power produced from that needs to be perfectly delivered to my gear. Moreover, even if you do not have a conditioner, a good cable is nevessary to shield the power from interference, to respond to the push and pull demands of power of an amp and, mist importantly the geometry and quality of the conductors, wether we are using a wall socket or a filter, are going to improve the sound quality not enhancing it but trasmitting it in the best way possible fir your gear and its needs. Especially amplifiers but also the delicate sourced. When I finally intriduced I high quality cable in ky system for my amplifier, the change was dramatic. Now my question is, did you ever tried to buy a good quality cable for your amplifier, say of at least 70-80$? The truth is a real good cable is going yo cost you an arm and a leg but if you follow my instructions you can obtain the same results spending much less.
Nice vid, good to see you taking cables and powerchords serious. You could improve on the powercable by connecting the copper shielding to ground on the shuko side. I made my own powercables with the Oyaide Tunami and Oyaide connectors and I am very satisfied with the result.
Ivar! Thank you for your comment and for your suggestion, I Will try that! Well...the Tunami is much better...congratulations!
Thanks Ivar and Anadialog on a great subject/demonstration. Regarding connecting cable sheilding to ground, just want to confirm that the sheilding should only be connected at one end (power outlet side) instead of both end, is that correct?
+Richard Gan Yes! That's right!
Grounding the copper shielding makes a huge difference, but only ground it at one end.
Yes, but it does degrade sound. Check my video description for more info.
Would it make sense to change out a 2 prong power cord for a 3 prong with ground, on my pioneer vsx-d1s receiver? And how easy would it be?
Not really...if you want a safer cable, yes, but you might lose dynamics...
ana[dia]log ok, it works why mess with it
What gauge of cable is used for 1 meter (3.28) ft.
If the shielding grounded, high freq will be dull and lowest will be too rounded not extended
I agree
@@anadialog thank you
Power cables are the most effective cables on a system. Especially the one from the wall to your powerbar and the one feeding the amp. Also if you add a double pull metal on the minus pole, it gives the sound more stability be removinga lot of noise.
Is that a joke?
No it is not a joke. I also cover this on my channel. Double pull on minus means that you have a lot less noise because of the double amount of threads. It creates a flow in the music, where everything has a bit more time to happen; meaning that you also get a better timing and a more natural sound.
If you have instead a double pull on the plus pole, it usually gives a more dynamic and unsettling sound that does not fully discharge the music. (sounding too tight)
You can also go with a 50cm power cable instead of the usual 200cm length, to get a more focused and coupled sound. But 200cm sounds more smooth and settled.
Try it.
@@RealHIFIHelp It is a joke. Complete nonsense.
It is a complete joke, if you judge a thing from a distance, then you won't actually know how that thing really reacts.
The best things in this world were discovered by accident, this is one of those things. Only once you have done this, will you be able to find a theoretical reason to why it sounds better.
All people in the start also found Einstein to be insane and not conforming to reality. But once they simulated his discoveries, did they realize that he was right. But it took a lot of work, going from theory to being able to apply that knowledge in practical ways.
@@RealHIFIHelp Educate yourself about electronics and how amplifiers work and you will then know why you got it so wrong.
any ideas were to get the plug for the revox b77 as it is non standard and those offered on ebay as revox are standard 2pin flat plugs
This is an option: www.revox-online-shop.com/equipment/cable/power-cord-double-pole-r0146?c=44
I was interested until the cost. I am trying to AVOID spending 100+ for a power cable upgrade. Psaudio has a badass one for the same cost as you have here and no work plus resale.... but I love the video and it looks fun and satisfying to make.
+cardiobroker thank you for your comment. The Oyaide is just an example...try this baby: YARBO SP-1100PW Triple Shielded Power Cable OCC Ø 16.5mm (about 65€/80$).
It Will blow the PSaudio out of the water. There is even a smaller gauge version that is even cheaper! All OCC Cooper. Impossible to find at this price as a finished cable!
Ciao! Mi hai convinto a costruirmi da solo il mio cavo, ho ordinato i componenti identici a quelli di questo video. Ho anche recuperato il video di Paul McGowan che dicevi. Lui dice di collegare la schermatura alla terra solo dal lato del connettore maschio, come mai tu non lo hai fatto per nessuno dei due connettori? Ho capito male il video di psaudio? Grazie, i tuoi video sono sempre molto interessanti.
Salve Mario, bene sono contento! Venendo alla questione schermatura. Se uno non ha grossi problemi di interferenze, è meglio non collegare la calza a mo' di schermatura perché a mio avviso, e anche secondo molti altri come PS audio, diminuisce la dinamica. PS audio dice di fare le cose diversamente e riesce ad inserire una schermatura senza compromettere il suono però Paul lo dice chiaro e tondo nel video che ho linkato nella descrizione del mio video, in generale la schermatura influisce negativamente e io sono d'accordo.
You should connect the shielding to the ground, if not the shielding does not work
I know. It dies shield bit in a passive way. I have explained my choice in other comments. For my merda I do non want to connect the shield bit dir others it May workout.
forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/why-we-need-to-connect-shield-of-shielded-cable-to-earth-ground.71926/
What gauge was your original power cable? Upgrading from an 18 gauge to what looks like a 12 gauge will allow your transformer to draw power more easily. You may very well be correct that you heard a difference, but it probably wasn't because of some fancy schmancy cable, but just that your power cable is now a larger electrical pipe. Think sucking water throw a coffee straw and some PSI=X, then through a drinking straw at the same PSI; you get more and faster.
Btw, those power wires running through your walls are likely 12 or 14 gauge, so long as your power cord is same gauge or larger, your equipment won't be bottlenecked by the stock 18 gauge wire the manufacturer gives you.
I don't remember but I agree, gauge is ALSO influencing tue sound...
You buy an expensive SHIELDED cable, then cut the drain wire at both ends??? The shield will be doing nothing . You are supposed to connect the drain to the earth wire connection at both ends. What do you think the drain wire is there for?
Using the automatic wire stripper is also bad practice - you can see how it damages the insulation just where the cables are near each other in the plug.
Not necessarily...read the other comments. I do agree on your last point...
ana[dia]log I think you should read this very useful note about shielding. www.rane.com/note151.html
I think also that the key thing about mains cable shielding is to stop the radiation of signal from the cable to other cables like interconnects, hence the name of Supra’s mains cable “Low Rad”.
ana[dia]log this is also useful. Unconnected shield can induce current into signal.... forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/why-we-need-to-connect-shield-of-shielded-cable-to-earth-ground.71926/
I agree that the hest thing is to usually ground the cable. But that is not always true. Shielding may induce re-rediating fields. Considering that I am using a power conditioner and the rest of the gear in grounded and shielded I decided not to shield the cable since IMHO it performs better. In all other cases I do suggest to shield!
@@anadialog is this not about each component part having an easier time performing it's function. The shield should be connected at earth. Each item is working at its best because it is dealing with less possible issues. Agree your conditioner should and will but why not allow it to perform with less possible RFI. I always connect the shield, its there so best to use it. Will it make a difference, well that is debatable.
Hey Guido! Please forgive me for bothering you about a video you shot 5 years ago 😊 but I do not believe that you can get this Oyaide OCC cable anymore to make your DIY power cord. I need to make one now primarily to reach a longer distance (about 2M) to the wall, but I cannot find this OCC wire. May I ask, please if you have any other suggestions for where I can get comparable wire now? Thank you Sir!
Oops, he forgot to mention that the cable running inside the walls of your house is about $1.50 per metre...but by all means, go ahead and make yourselves " HIGH END " CABLES! ENJOY! 👍
That is a common mistake there. Gear, especially amps, have a push-pull power requirement and if you do not have a good cable the machine is not going to work properly. Secondly, I always suggest to use a power filter and obviously the power cable makes even more sense. Thirdly the power cable I am suggesting is not high-end in its price but only in its effects. Finally, though you do not believe this because of your prejudice you still watch these videos and put a thumbs up on you your own comment...how lame.
I agree, shielding is useless, actually it lowers dynamics!
What I am trying to say is that there is a variable use of power from the machine and the wall socket, and a good cable can optimize that relationship. Obviously it would be better to rewire properly the whole house but that is difficult and expensive. Plus, if you insert a good power filter things will get even better. A bad power filter will suck the life out of the music.
@W N Well said brother!👌
@@anadialog ABSOLUTE LOAD OF SHIT! You keep telling yourself that bro, because it's only your money you're wasting...
Yup! audio cables in signal chain have some effect, 6 foot of power cable between wall and device, unless it's defective is BULLSHIT!!!
What make of cable do you use brand etc including plugs and connecting
For me the best at the right price are the bulk cables by Neotech or any OCC copper teflon insulated is ok. Connectors again in OCC copper or simply high quality 24kt gold connectors.
What is the difference in sound if you invert you're neutral and living wire on the power cord (since AC current don't care about this and ALSO in my power amp how to tell the hot and cool wire on the transformer should be connected since is a single coil so they usually use the same wire so they are the same color ??
Hi Jay P, woah...a streaming of comments...if I understand correctly your point, here is the answer: th-cam.com/video/VhhRPmt47j8/w-d-xo.html
I want the A/B test. Where is it?
Just so you know, I pay my power company extra to send me super clean, noiseless, audiophile AC right through the public power grid.
It makes my stereo sound fantastic, superior toast, and my blender makes tastier margaritas!
Cool! I want that feature too!! I did set it up multiple times...man, the things I heat in real life on my couch just disapppear when converted and digitalized...that is why I am not doing it for now.
...moreover, now thst my system is optimimazed the effects are liwer than when I started when each quality tweek was hugely significant...
@@anadialog I know how to make any amp and music sound better with a cable. But you have to apply it appropriately to the baby. J/K ;)
why not use Furutech GTX NCF plug?
Sure, it's an excellent plug, but it will higher the overall price, that's all.
The prices dont add up for me here in the US. 87 for plugs each, 60 for cable, not to mention other materials. A good power cable can be 300 bucks, but its done and relatively the same cost for me.
Hi there, probably i will make a cable like yours, but do you know / recomend something diferent and more flexible? i dont have much space between my system and my wall, so i need a cable who can bend more easly. thanks a lot :)
Indeed: check the video description, there are other high quality suggestions!
What strippers are you using?
Mainly this type www.amazon.com/VCELINK-Automatic-Stripper-Professional-Adjustable/dp/B08G48R47N/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=stripping+pliers&qid=1672433592&sr=8-5
But not exclusively
Hello bro. Can you please give me or do a run down on Nura Headphones. Heard a lot of hype. Any deapth;and a price comparison please. I have faith in your ears.
Hi John, I haven't tried them but the concept seems very intriguing. What I don't like on the paper is noise cancellation and the the normal frequency response. At that price I would look for a classic but solid pair of cans like the the Meze 99, which are also dam gorgeous!
You should run the cable through the acrylic back piece of the connector before you strip off any insulation. Easier that way. Also, what you call Hot, Neutral, Ground we call Line, Neutral, and Ground in the US.
Very cool Sr, what is the max length that you would make a power cable.
Ho M Z, well if it is well shielded (in that case also using the brace connected to the ground that I cut off) you can have a very long cable without any issues, for example 5 m. It is also a good idea to have a power cable NOT too short. Short cables are good for interconnects but with power cables 1.5 m is better than 0.5 or 1 m. Don't ask me why, they just sound better! A person who sells cables told me this once and I must admit that he was right!
Very cool, I see your point about the length and the type of cable you area using, I noticed that somebody mentioned about silver, but the metal that you use needs to be for the appropriate application. In my humble opinion and I have done few different tests, yes silver is good for interconnects, headphones. Copper is the best to be used for power cables and they need to be well shilded. You are giving me a new project I want to try. Thanks for sharing
I'm curious, did you have any problems with the iec connector gripping the solid core wire ? it seems every time I use solid core the wire will pull out with just a slight tug.
I did not...fortunately, this cable is really stiff!
I’m new to this and I wanted to ask for your opinion, would adding hi end Power Cables to Yorkville NX750 active speakers for a live/Dj set?
Wow! What a pair of speakers you have their...I am not sure what is the question...
Thanks for answering quickly, What I meant to say is, would these high-end power cables make a difference on my speakers since each one has a plate amp on them. I also have a pair of Yorkville 801 subs that also have a plate amp on them. I’m a ready running signal to them with Mogami XLR’s and that made a nice difference too.
Miguel, they desperately need good quality power cables...you will imnediately hear the difference if you are coming from standard bulk cables...
Sadly as others have said you cut the screen at both ends? At the ac outlet plug end you should have installed the screen with the earth wire. Heatshrinked the earth and screen wires. All you have made is a three core mains cable with no RFI protection. Expensive plugs and cable for no benefit. They look expensive but that's all these expensive power cables are about alot of the time. You might want to fit a ferrite core to this cable to at least give it some RFI protection. Totally agree with you I make all my cables with quality materials, it cost so much less and performs just as well.
Try them without earth...as I said in other comments, the dynamics are better without a ground. Interference might he an issue but it's rare, especially if you are using a power conditioner like me.
@@anadialog well prior to using screened power cords mine were UK 13amp cables. So already have done that. Also I would add have I noticed a real change before and after. No not really, extremely subtle but as I made my own I have not wasted lots of cash in the process. I have one power cord pre conditioner then from the conditioner to components.
Great! In the end both solutions will do the job....
@@anadialog it's great experimenting. Some work some don't. Knowing you have nice quality materials just means things should work as they are supposed too 👍
Can you suggest some other cables that might offer a bit more flexility? The stiffness of that one would be problematic for my setup.
Hi China Tim, Sure! Good 'softer' choices are:
- ELECAUDIO CS-361B Power Cable OCC PTFE 3x2.5mm² Triple shielding Ø 17mm (around 25$ x 1 meter...these are a little bulky though)
- FURUTECH FP-3TS20 Power cable OCC Copper (Alpha) Ø 14.3mm (around 80$ x 1 meter)
- YARBO SP-2200 Power cable Silver plated Copper Ø 11mm (around 45$ x 1 meter....these are not OCC copper but they are good).
Check the prices and Ebay, they may be different according to the country you live in...
tyvm
I see a bit of a stir-up about the shielding of the power-cable. Yes, if you use the cable to power a power amplifier, the shielding is not necessary and indeed it lowers the dynamic of music. If, on the other hand, you use the power cord to power a preamplifier or a cd-player or DAC, I recommend to you a shielded cable. Also, a shielded power cable is necessary to power the turntable. I am not an advocate of power-conditioners because they too lower the dynamic of the music and they also have a negative effect on transients and harmonics, on the richness of the sound, it makes the sound dry. I have tested some P.S. Audio power conditioner in the past with some Naim gear and it was not good, not good at all. A power conditioner may do a good job on audio gear that has lower current consumption, like preamplifiers, DACs, cd-players.
Sad that Nordost stoped making my favourite AC-cable before I understood that it WAS my absolute favourite. Their WyreWizard Magus.
I like that cheaper cable more than their Blue Heaven.
IMHO Nordost is one of the best cable makers out there!
@@anadialog Mine too so most of my cables in my 7.1 AV-system is from Nordost.
I'm an electrical engineer and I can tell you without doubt that fancy little wire from your wall socket to your amp will make no difference at all, not unless you"ve paid big bucks for one. Then you will hear a difference. Only you will hear the difference but no one else will.
According to conventional wisdom I can't see how the super mains cable can make a difference, other than screening the electrical field of the cable which will decrease pick up by any nearby (imperfectly) screened signal cables and equipment. As others have said it's hard to logic how a short piece of special cable can compensate for standard circuit cables etc and thousands of standard copper windings in the input transformer of the equipment.However as we have a very limited model of what electricity really is, I hold back from saying definitively that such a thing cannot make a difference....
Am a electrical engineer and I can tell you that It most definitely will make a difference I've made my own everything they all sound better lol you have to understand that free cheap power cables that come with your gear are rubbish
@@mfr58it makes a difference because your power supply for the Frist time in it's life gets clean power less resistance so more of a dark background and better base and hi end resolution
@@MorecrazythanyouEverything's measurable mate. They do nothing. It's a logical fallacy, confirmation bias, that's clouding your judgements.
Hi, I'm in US.. where can i get the cable and connectors?
I know that they a difficult to find in the US. I think you should try ebay I see they have the 102. Otherwise I don't know. In Europe it is easy to find. Sorry about that.
Grazie innazitutto per l'ottimo tutorial. Da poco mi sono iscritto e guardo alcuni dei tuoi video.
Vorrei porti due quesiti, dato che ultimamente sto "giocando" con un Purist Audio Musaeus, un Kubala Sosna Fascination (circa 600€) e ho inoltre letto molto bene del Black Sand Violet (colore viola, acquistabile nuovo per 400€ sul sito ufficiale) :
1. Che tipo di miglioramenti ha portato questo cavo nella tua catena? In che direzione? Miglior Nero/Contrasto? caratteristica in particolare o è equilibrato "top to bottom"?
Miglior Velocità e PRat?
L'estensione in alto ha subuto un roll-off?
E' un cavo che predilige una gamma di frequenze o qualche
2. Conosci i cavi che ho citato sopra? Potresti descrivermi se il tuo cavo autoscostruito si pone in confronto a questi? E' all'altezza?
3. Cosa ne pensi riguardo il cavo del progetto TNT Audio acquistabile su Ebay per circa 36€ rispetto al tuo cavo? Hai avuto modo di provarlo?
Caro Marco, scusami per il ritardo con cui ti rispondo!
Vengo subito alle risposte:
1- Il cavo l'ho utilizzato per un amplificatore per cuffie valvolare. I miglioramenti che ho notato sono stati soprattutto nella timbrica e dinamica. Le valvole sono sembrate meno taglienti e più dettagliate e fluido. Le tue richieste sono molto dettagliate, forse troppo! ;-) Posso però dirti che non ho notato nessuna enfasi nelle alte frequenze. Odio i cavi brillanti! Il rame OCC a mio avviso è quello più neutrale di tutti e in molti stanno tornado al solid core per le sue qualità dinamiche e neutrali.
2- Purtroppo non li conosco ma sono andato a vedere le specifiche. Wow! Sembrano dei cavi davvero ottimi. Complimenti! Soprattutto il Musaeusin OCC con trattamento criogenico. Per l'altro ho trovato meno informazioni ma sembra promettere bene dalle recensioni. Penso che la geometria dei tuoi cavi sia superiore a quello di questo cavo del video. Potresti provare ad andare al top di gamma della Oyaide, il Tunami. Quello dovrebbe reggere il paragone senza svuotarti il portafogli!
3- Per quanto riguarda il TTS di TNT lascerei perdere. Il progetto a mio avviso è obsoleto. Penso che tu sappia che sono un convinto sostenitore del rame OCC o PCOCCC. Con quello tutto ha una marcia in più e se fai il cavo da solo ti costa il giusto, se prendi cavi già fatti, ti costano un rene!
ana[dia]log La tua risposta è stata molto utile ti ringrazio. Posseggo già un TNT e non è malvagio ma se con il cavo che mi hai appena suggerito posso ottenere prestazioni paragonabili a quelle dei cavi che ho elencato direi che è un ottima cosa. Grazie mille !
What's your experience with bi-wiring? I tried with very good results (more definition) BUT the improvement could be justified by the substitution of the gilded plaque which is included in speakers.
You mean in speakers...actually I have a tri-wire speaker (ATC-SCM35). Removing the jumpers was incredible...then I found a true tri-wire cable...simply amazing! I know a lot of people think it's snakeoil but I do hear a lot of detail and ambience that not al normal cables have!
Hi many thanks for sharing! Which European country are you from? And where do you source the cables as often shipping and handling is more costly tuant thé câble itself. Thank you for reading
Hello! I live in Italy. Check the video description of the video as well as this other one for material sources: th-cam.com/video/u3EPL6hI_H4/w-d-xo.html
Focus on copper screw and nut, gets rid of most of the emi from magnetic screws & nuts. Connector also most loss occur there and solder with 10% silver, 99.9% are brass connectors out there with only 25 iacs. Thus now available Tellurium copper 95 iacs will get you that improvement.
I have already said this in another comment and I replied there.
Power cords are like tone controls, they can either enhance or detract from the sound...it all depends on the particular components used and where you place your power cable(s). Caution must always be used when mixing or matching various cables! It is also wise to change them in or out incrementally to discern whatever changes. I currently have a power cord on my amplifier and power conditioner, but used nowhere else. A noticeable improvement of dynamics was the biggest change with a darker/silent background. Cheers!
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Hi and thanks
OCD HiFi guy Mike a pro hi end cable manufacturer also on TH-cam fills the terminals with a mineral mix and removes all the inner screws. Is this unnecessary?
Sounds interesting but I do not know this method...