Loving this series Joe! Keep up the great work and top notch editing! I also use my JIS screwdriver for all Phillips head screws, good money spent. Aloha 🤙🏽
Thanks man! I’m researching rear suspension. It’s highly likely that I’ll swap out for something new, so this stock suspension still has your name on it. Aloha!
Bought my first Harley and fell in love with the look of these bars. Bought a set and would love to know where to get that Knurling tool so I can do a similar action to knurl the set I have coming! Awesome video. Definitely gonna refer to this when installing my set.
I bought my knurling tool for a $100 from a guy that hand builds them. I likely won’t use it again. If you’re interested I’d sell it for cheap. Like $50 cheap. Reach out to me at joe@greategretmoto.com if you’re interested.
Yeah, it worked for me on a previous build, but it breaks up over time and begins to slip again. Knurling the bars is the only thing that’s worked long term for me.
The clutch cable is stock. No need to extend it. These 8” bars are the max, though. Anything higher than this and you’re gonna need a longer clutch cable.
Hi Joe, I am glad the knurling tool worked out for you. Now you have some back and forth adjustment as well. I really like those bars you picked, they definitely look much more comfortable. The way you prepped the patient for the transfusion was rather impressive, good thing dot 5 doesn’t eat paint like the dot 3 does. I use dot 5 in all my classic cars as well so it won’t eat the hydraulic rubber seals during winter storage. Looking forward to the next video!
@@GreatEgret Well Joe, it’s a long story. Actually I always thought old British sports cars where the closest thing to riding a motorcycle, they are low to the ground, very responsive and you FEEL and become part of the raw mechanicals going on under the bonnet, the smell of the wool carpets, the smell the walnut wood dashboard and leather seats. all the aircraft type smith gauges in front of you, the WW2 British racing green paint and spoke wheels. The open cockpit and that big steering wheel in your hands. Not to mention the old warbird sound of the exhaust is intoxicating. The rawness of it and flowing lines. Kind of like riding a old vintage Sportster.. it’s touches your soul and you become part of it! Your not insulated from the sounds, smells and mechanicals.. you are one! No radios, just the beautiful music of the machine! There was a time when I was not riding motorcycles, so these old Classic British sports cars where the closest thing to the filling my natural desire of man, machine and the open road! 1967 Austin Healey BJ8, 1959 Austin Healey BN4, 1959 MGA coupe, 1973 Triumph TR6, 1967, Triumph TR4. Always wanted a 1963 Jaguar XKE but never could afford one. I will send you some pictures. Maybe they will be food for thought… as long as you are willing to learn to wrench on them to keep them mostly reliable and fun!
@@GreatEgret Joe, I just send you some photos of some of my vintage British sports cars via your email. Just food for thought you may want to consider in the future! Hope you like the photos.
Not really. The thread cutting oil I used acts as rustproofing and I don’t really plan on being in the rain much on this bike. Buuuut, since you mentioned it, I’ll probably keep an eye on it.
I went the opposite way. went from Chumps to a dragbar on my Sporty. Want a more lowdown look and next is to swap over to mid controls maybe. Gonna give it a try for a bit before investing in mid controls.
I’ll never say never to forward controls, but it’s highly likely I’ll always use mid controls. They just give you so much more control of the bike. Especially in the twisties.
On my sporty which I no longer have, I went with Z bars with a 7" rise. They had me leaning forward and hunched over a bit compared to stock and I felt much more in control, especially with the mid controls and it helped with buffeting because I was leaning into the wind.
@@GreatEgret Yeah ive heard many say the same but ive never tried a Sportster with mid controls. Makes sense tho. My biggest gripe with forwards is that its hard to shift your weight with them so arse goes numb haha
@@cmbiker yeah that makes sense, I have a Road king with apes and it turns me effectively into a sail and it definitely makes me tired faster than stock bars.
Thanks! I was wondering who was going to notice that first! 😂 Its such a process adjusting the headlight. I need a warm, snow-free day so I head outside and get the 25’ required to adjust it.
hi Joe just watched the video, good work, question for you, im going to be doing the same, did you have to get a longer clutch cable? If so what length is the new cable.? regards Jon in the uk
Hey Jon. Thanks! I didn’t need a longer clutch cable for the 8” handlebars. If you go any taller than that, you’ll need a longer clutch cable. The Sportster 72 clutch cables are longer (68” I think) and are perfect for really tall handlebars. Get your hands on an inexpensive used one if you can.
TC Bros makes handlebars that are nearly identical to the Chumps, both in style and price point, and they have the knurling. Yeah I could have bought those, but then I wouldn’t get the chance to make a fool out of myself knurling the Chumps. 😂
@@GreatEgret thanks! 🤘😎 I am over your side of the pond in May but only for 5 days and working with no down days, then go from there straight to Poland.. next time out il add a couple days on if I’m not going anywhere else afterwards
Oh, man! Good choice! I rode the Iron for the first time this year last Saturday and I was thinking while riding how I have these dialed in perfectly for my riding position. Love these bars!
@Great Egret It will have to wait... just changed my rear shocks for Progressives and a new front tire, not mention new battery charging system for winter storage... i look forward to the first ride in about 2 weeks.
@@GreatEgret Yeah I have their 12 inch chrome ones for my 1200 sportster. I got them drilled to get the wiring internal. Didnt get them knurled hoping they wont slip but now an issue. I am not thinking of getting them removed and getting them knurled or maybe use rubber or some extra metal sheet in the riser.
@@GreatEgret On your previous bike you popped in some window screen repair tape/kit before you did the R66 journey. Did that hold up okay, or not well enough to do it again, so you opted for Knurling? I'm looking at putting Chumps on my bike this weekend, so thought I'd ask.
Yeah, I wrapped Emory cloth around the bars where they clamped in. It worked until the grit of the Emory cloth wore out. Only lasted about a month for me. The knurling worked great for me.
Loving this series Joe! Keep up the great work and top notch editing! I also use my JIS screwdriver for all Phillips head screws, good money spent. Aloha 🤙🏽
Thanks man! I’m researching rear suspension. It’s highly likely that I’ll swap out for something new, so this stock suspension still has your name on it. Aloha!
Looks way better already, I NEEEED those grips!
They are pretty sweet.
Bought my first Harley and fell in love with the look of these bars. Bought a set and would love to know where to get that Knurling tool so I can do a similar action to knurl the set I have coming! Awesome video. Definitely gonna refer to this when installing my set.
I bought my knurling tool for a $100 from a guy that hand builds them. I likely won’t use it again. If you’re interested I’d sell it for cheap. Like $50 cheap. Reach out to me at joe@greategretmoto.com if you’re interested.
Joe you make this look so easy! I have been avoiding this because I dont trust myself with the brake fluid work lol.
Wait until next week. I look a bit foolish on my first attempt.
Hi. I got same handlebars. Do I need extension wires or all stock wires fit?
Pretty much explain that in this video. Electrical and clutch cables are long enough. Brake line needs to be swapped out for a longer one.
Screenmend and a lighter helped me on my brothers handle bar knurl for his bike lol
Yeah, it worked for me on a previous build, but it breaks up over time and begins to slip again. Knurling the bars is the only thing that’s worked long term for me.
Did you have to install cable extension kit? Or is it factory length?
The clutch cable is stock. No need to extend it. These 8” bars are the max, though. Anything higher than this and you’re gonna need a longer clutch cable.
Hi Joe, I am glad the knurling tool worked out for you. Now you have some back and forth adjustment as well. I really like those bars you picked, they definitely look much more comfortable. The way you prepped the patient for the transfusion was rather impressive, good thing dot 5 doesn’t eat paint like the dot 3 does. I use dot 5 in all my classic cars as well so it won’t eat the hydraulic rubber seals during winter storage. Looking forward to the next video!
What classic cars have you worked on? I'm thinking I need a project like that down the road.
@@GreatEgret Well Joe, it’s a long story. Actually I always thought old British sports cars where the closest thing to riding a motorcycle, they are low to the ground, very responsive and you FEEL and become part of the raw mechanicals going on under the bonnet, the smell of the wool carpets, the smell the walnut wood dashboard and leather seats. all the aircraft type smith gauges in front of you, the WW2 British racing green paint and spoke wheels. The open cockpit and that big steering wheel in your hands. Not to mention the old warbird sound of the exhaust is intoxicating. The rawness of it and flowing lines. Kind of like riding a old vintage Sportster.. it’s touches your soul and you become part of it!
Your not insulated from the sounds, smells and mechanicals.. you are one! No radios, just the beautiful music of the machine! There was a time when I was not riding motorcycles, so these old Classic British sports cars where the closest thing to the filling my natural desire of man, machine and the open road!
1967 Austin Healey BJ8, 1959 Austin Healey BN4, 1959 MGA coupe, 1973 Triumph TR6, 1967, Triumph TR4. Always wanted a 1963 Jaguar XKE but never could afford one. I will send you some pictures. Maybe they will be food for thought… as long as you are willing to learn to wrench on them to keep them mostly reliable and fun!
Your description here is perfect and makes me want to at least drive a classic British sports car. I would love to see photos.
@@GreatEgret Joe, I just send you some photos of some of my vintage British sports cars via your email. Just food for thought you may want to consider in the future! Hope you like the photos.
Great idea for knurling the bars! Loving the detailed videos Joe!
What’s the inch height on these
8”. Goldilocks bars. Not too tall, not too short.
As usual, great info for all. I am 6'1" so the stock Iron type bars might not work. These would move me up a bit; similar to the Iron 1200.
These are very similar to the Iron 1200 bars. I think the Iron 1200 bars are wider at the base.
Did you not have to buy cable or wire extensions? Looking at doing pretty much the same thing on my 1200 with the same before and after bars.
I cover this in the next video in the series. The stock clutch cable and the electrical wiring works here, but replaced the brake line.
Any concern with rust on the fresh knurled parts of the bar?
Not really. The thread cutting oil I used acts as rustproofing and I don’t really plan on being in the rain much on this bike. Buuuut, since you mentioned it, I’ll probably keep an eye on it.
You didn’t have to change out the brake and clutch cables out?
cutch cable no. Front brake cable yes. It’s covered in the episode after this one.
I have similar handlebars on my 1982 KZ650. Was considering 70’s Honda style but I may just stick to what I have which is really comfortable.
There are other handlebar styles that I like the looks of more than the Chumps, but man, these bars are so comfy.
I went the opposite way. went from Chumps to a dragbar on my Sporty. Want a more lowdown look and next is to swap over to mid controls maybe. Gonna give it a try for a bit before investing in mid controls.
I’ll never say never to forward controls, but it’s highly likely I’ll always use mid controls. They just give you so much more control of the bike. Especially in the twisties.
On my sporty which I no longer have, I went with Z bars with a 7" rise. They had me leaning forward and hunched over a bit compared to stock and I felt much more in control, especially with the mid controls and it helped with buffeting because I was leaning into the wind.
@@GreatEgret Yeah ive heard many say the same but ive never tried a Sportster with mid controls. Makes sense tho. My biggest gripe with forwards is that its hard to shift your weight with them so arse goes numb haha
@@cmbiker yeah that makes sense, I have a Road king with apes and it turns me effectively into a sail and it definitely makes me tired faster than stock bars.
Nice progress....your led headlight bulb isnt centered😜
Thanks! I was wondering who was going to notice that first! 😂 Its such a process adjusting the headlight. I need a warm, snow-free day so I head outside and get the 25’ required to adjust it.
hi Joe just watched the video, good work, question for you, im going to be doing the same, did you have to get a longer clutch cable? If so what length is the new cable.?
regards
Jon in the uk
Hey Jon. Thanks! I didn’t need a longer clutch cable for the 8” handlebars. If you go any taller than that, you’ll need a longer clutch cable. The Sportster 72 clutch cables are longer (68” I think) and are perfect for really tall handlebars. Get your hands on an inexpensive used one if you can.
Cheers mate I’ve ordered the 8” bitwell bars so that’s a bonus👍
I’m impressed buddy, but why wouldn’t the company opt out of knurling the bars??
Thanks man! Biltwell says it’s because knurling wouldn’t improve grip. I clearly have my doubts about that. 😂 I hope this works.
It adds time and expense, they opt out because they know that people will still buy them anyway (because they’re awesome) and knurl them at home lol
@@BulldogBadger I guess, as I just witnessed that, but I don’t need anymore tools in my shop........I may have room for one more I guess
TC Bros makes handlebars that are nearly identical to the Chumps, both in style and price point, and they have the knurling. Yeah I could have bought those, but then I wouldn’t get the chance to make a fool out of myself knurling the Chumps. 😂
@@GreatEgret you did a great job brother. We appreciate your videos and learning with ya
1st🤘😎
Nice name
He’s got a great channel too!
@@GreatEgret thanks! 🤘😎
I am over your side of the pond in May but only for 5 days and working with no down days, then go from there straight to Poland.. next time out il add a couple days on if I’m not going anywhere else afterwards
My next mod...
Oh, man! Good choice! I rode the Iron for the first time this year last Saturday and I was thinking while riding how I have these dialed in perfectly for my riding position. Love these bars!
@Great Egret It will have to wait... just changed my rear shocks for Progressives and a new front tire, not mention new battery charging system for winter storage... i look forward to the first ride in about 2 weeks.
Not perfect. Not pretty. Gets the job done. Story of my life.
Biltwell should provide knurling on their handlebars. Their explanation is such a silly excuse.
I really wish they would. They make such great bars.
@@GreatEgret Yeah I have their 12 inch chrome ones for my 1200 sportster. I got them drilled to get the wiring internal. Didnt get them knurled hoping they wont slip but now an issue. I am not thinking of getting them removed and getting them knurled or maybe use rubber or some extra metal sheet in the riser.
I tried everything to get them to not slip. This is the last resort before switching to the TC Bros 8” narrow apes.
@@GreatEgret On your previous bike you popped in some window screen repair tape/kit before you did the R66 journey. Did that hold up okay, or not well enough to do it again, so you opted for Knurling? I'm looking at putting Chumps on my bike this weekend, so thought I'd ask.
Yeah, I wrapped Emory cloth around the bars where they clamped in. It worked until the grit of the Emory cloth wore out. Only lasted about a month for me. The knurling worked great for me.
what made this video so enjoyable was the mute button
😂