There is a difference in the source of grit and polish that you buy for tumble polishing rocks! #thefinders #jawsjr #rockpolishing #jasperstone #jasper #lortone #lapidary
60/90 is a mix of two sizes of grit particles ( or mesh size ), hence the 60/90 name. The grit most likely has a proprietary blend from each supplier ( HP and the RS ). If your methodology is sound, it appears to me that the HP may just be a little less aggressive ( less 60 mesh and more 90 mesh ) and the RS may be a little higher on the 60 mesh. This is not an indicator if a product is “ good “ or not. If I was processing 12 pounds of baby malawis, I would not want an aggressive 60/90 blend. If I was tumbling 12 pounds of jasper, I might lean toward the more aggressive 60/90 blend. It’s a matter of perspective , not one is better than the other. I have used HP grit and Kingsley North grit ( never tried the RS grit ) and found both to be excellent products from reputable companies.
60/90 is not a mix 60 grit and 90 grit, it is a blend of all grit sizes as large as 60 grit and as small as 90 grit. In the video I stated that one works well from some applications while the other works better in others. Both are good products, but it helps to understand the expected outcomes prior to starting a project. But that is why when I do offer advice I clearly state the source of your grit and polish is very important. Someone will not have similar results if they use grit from HP and I use grit from The Rock Shed to process some of the harder jasper varieties. Now for softer material, if one wants more material removed, then go with the Rock Shed sourced grit. One thing is certain, this is another variable that needs to be considered when one is starting a batch.
Start off building a variable speed rotary tumbler that supports larger very soft sided barrels. Then be ready to start doing hours of removing cracks and flaws after you are done with the coarse grit and prior to starting medium grit. When done with medium grit, continue the flaw removal process. Then a rubber sided barrel is needed for a vibe, not plastic, not metal, but rubber, to finish the process. Also you have to know how to modify the intensity of the machine. Also having a custom mix of media is essential. Then on to final polish, the quality of the water being used is very important. Most city water is horrible. The water should have natural minerals in it. The source of the grit and.polish is very important. The additives added are very important. My knowledge is limited to my equipment that I have built and modified to my specific needs. One final thing, I have probably gone through nearly 1,000 pounds of obsidian to get my knowledge, and there is still an occasional batch that is a complete fail, mainly because one the needed steps/procedures were not done exactly right.
Very good video keep up the good work
Interesting!
Hiya Scott, awesome video and very informative. I hope you and the Misses, have a awesome blessed day. Cya!
😺🐟out!
Your buddy is teaching you from the great beyond...
That's a very special batch. Sorry to hear about your friend.
60/90 is a mix of two sizes of grit particles ( or mesh size ), hence the 60/90 name. The grit most likely has a proprietary blend from each supplier ( HP and the RS ). If your methodology is sound, it appears to me that the HP may just be a little less aggressive ( less 60 mesh and more 90 mesh ) and the RS may be a little higher on the 60 mesh. This is not an indicator if a product is “ good “ or not. If I was processing 12 pounds of baby malawis, I would not want an aggressive 60/90 blend. If I was tumbling 12 pounds of jasper, I might lean toward the more aggressive 60/90 blend. It’s a matter of perspective , not one is better than the other. I have used HP grit and Kingsley North grit ( never tried the RS grit ) and found both to be excellent products from reputable companies.
60/90 is not a mix 60 grit and 90 grit, it is a blend of all grit sizes as large as 60 grit and as small as 90 grit. In the video I stated that one works well from some applications while the other works better in others. Both are good products, but it helps to understand the expected outcomes prior to starting a project. But that is why when I do offer advice I clearly state the source of your grit and polish is very important. Someone will not have similar results if they use grit from HP and I use grit from The Rock Shed to process some of the harder jasper varieties. Now for softer material, if one wants more material removed, then go with the Rock Shed sourced grit. One thing is certain, this is another variable that needs to be considered when one is starting a batch.
Can you pass along your best educated guess of polishing obsidian recipe?
Start off building a variable speed rotary tumbler that supports larger very soft sided barrels. Then be ready to start doing hours of removing cracks and flaws after you are done with the coarse grit and prior to starting medium grit. When done with medium grit, continue the flaw removal process. Then a rubber sided barrel is needed for a vibe, not plastic, not metal, but rubber, to finish the process. Also you have to know how to modify the intensity of the machine. Also having a custom mix of media is essential. Then on to final polish, the quality of the water being used is very important. Most city water is horrible. The water should have natural minerals in it. The source of the grit and.polish is very important. The additives added are very important. My knowledge is limited to my equipment that I have built and modified to my specific needs. One final thing, I have probably gone through nearly 1,000 pounds of obsidian to get my knowledge, and there is still an occasional batch that is a complete fail, mainly because one the needed steps/procedures were not done exactly right.
@@1JawsJr Thank you for your time and knowledge!