Careful. The L3901 front axel is only rated for 2865LB so with that kind of load on your front loader you're getting real close to breaking the front axle if you bounce the load over rough terrain and hit it with a shock load.
If "They came this way stock", they would BE in the "Shop" every two-three weeks instead of every two or three YEARS. The "manufacturers " are just realing trying to "Save the lives" of your typical " Green-horn home-lowner Twac-tor Driver". These "Almost Extreme " modifications are for ONLY the most "dareing & Experienced Operator's".
@@donaldstrishock3923 100% agree. I pull stumps with my L3302, and I've lifted the back end up (with a brush hog on) more than a few times from just increasing my PSI bypass to 2700-2800. Each time I do it I think "Well there's another 6 months off my bearing life." Maybe not that dramatic, but I'm certainly not doing my front axle any favors when I overdo it like that. I like big numbers and big lift capacity, but I like my equipment to last, too.
What a Great Improvement & Demostration, Fellows. On my "kubogy" MX5200 TLB it is as strong as l want it to be...maybe.! You guys MUST of "turned up" the hydraulic pressure a while ago....reason because the standard lift capacity was EXCEEDED / Plus the weight of those heavy duty pallet forks. My "unit" picks up only about 4 more "ounces" from idle-to full RPM's. I have never "jacked" with the Pressure,....but did change some hoses & FITTINGS; for a 40% increase of SPEED. It was Especially a BIG HELP when using the Back-hoe atachment ( a BH92). Even though a tractor-loader can LIFT a good amount; the "manufacture" only Suggests that only 60% is Used for moving materials. I have never had any problems with my tractors, BUT my Associate's HAVE...since they Call me ALL THE TIME for a "REBUILD" on their front axles....leaking,cracked & BROKE!!! I am surely Suprised on the "Price" of these After-market cylinders. They are a 4 for 1 BARGAIN compaired to "origional Dealer prices". Thank you Sir's for the Excelent vidio and happy safe tractoring. Best wishes with all your endeavours.
What was being called the "bore" is actually the rod size. The Inside Diameter of the cylinder is properly called the bore, and is the same number as the piston diameter. The piston moves up and down in the cylinder and is fastened to the end of the rod, usually by a threaded rod with a nut on the end. sometimes the piston itself is threaded and acts as a nut.
I don’t see it putting any more of a load on the front axle than I already was considering the stock cylinders were able to lift everything I asked them to. I’m not seeking to lift heavier objects, this just allows me to lift my totes and logs easier and with more control.
@@DudeRanchDIY you are correct. I should have said the potential is there, being that you can lift more now. Neil at messics did a video on how ballast weights affect weight applied to front ends. Very good video!
Thanks, I’d venture to say I have more ballast than most weighing in around 1,900lbs between rear tires and BTR. All of that help reduce excessive strain
Nice upgrade! Be careful. I’m pretty sure the manufacturer sizes everything appropriately to ensure longevity… YMMV but stressing other components can lead to catastrophic failure and it may get expensive. Just thinking out loud.
As I mentioned in the video my tractor already picked up everything I needed it to. This just allows for a little extra wiggle room, maybe even a set of heavier rotating pallet forks…
Kubota ships the tractors with a wimpy pressure rating on the system. It is highly adjustable on the joystick control. I run my B7510 at 1800 pounds instead of 1500 in order to dump the lift trailer. My old rebadged Mitsubishi has a plaque in the cab with recommended hydro pressures. Maximum is a bit over 2000 pounds.
I think that stock lift capacity is actually pretty good. The weight of the forks are also part of the lift capacity so thats prob another couple hundred. Kubota says that loader lifts 1131 lbs at full height for reference
Yes the stock lift on my tractor was very good, as I mentioned I was already able to lift everything I needed. This just allows me to do it easier and with more control.
I have a 2008 Kubota tractor that use the same cylinders as yours. While it's very tempting to increase the lift capacity, the weak point of these loaders are the pins, particularly the bucket pins. With my weak lift capacity, I had to replace several pins over the years because they tend to break in the middle where the grease gets out to lubricate the joins. I imagine that lifting even more weight would result in more broken pins.
My only concern with that is now you really need to pay close attention to stress cracks.. if you see rust forming you may need to weld some plate to the area.. other than that this is an absolute game changer.. now you can lift a basket of wood with ease.. oh yeah.. make certain your attachment can handle the new limits.. great job guys
just started watching your videos, you guys do an awesome job!! please do a follow up video on rotating pallet forks when you and AJ get it figured out. Gotta ask what is on ur hood?? a rat / mouse?? take care!!
I lift heavy logs all the time. This summer I replaced my front bearings and seals for the third time. My loader arms flex way more than they used to. It's fine on flat ground but lifting long heavy logs on slopes is not a good idea. It's just like building an off road truck. Do motor work and don't do your drivetrain and very quickly you will have to get a new heavier drivetrain. Then tires, then rims, then brakes and on and on. This upgrade is fine for your yard and totes though. Keep an eye on your hoses too. Chris, don't let Jake do this to your 1520. I broke my front wheel drive on my 1520 pulling tree roots out, it was an expensive fix.
Have you considered if your front axles can handle that weight, you will lift even heavier using the curl of your forks, I have broken 3 axles on a 444 international tractor when curling my load, 16 foot hard maple at 40 inch at the butt, not a good feeling when the tractor falls. My tree farmer I lowered the hydraulic pressure not to blow the axles drives, I know hydraulics.
Playing catchup and watched the latest 2 videos. Love the lift capacity. Looks like Hydros Plus only makes cylinders for Kubota's, does anyone know another company that makes cylinders for Kioti?
I’ve learned that back ballast relieves the front axel pressure, typical fulcrum. So I have a heavy box if I’m doing anything past stock weights. Generally, I can fully offset the extra lift on the front.
Seriously I would not do this reason being the engineering designed this tractor and loader to be compatible to weights that the frame-structured metal is designed for a weight that is safe for the tractors capacity to avoid metal fatigue breakdowns of welded joints and pump sized for a weight that it is able to handle along with hydraulic parts that are rated according to certain pressure limits based on size of hydraulic pump psi
Not by much, percentage wise it would slow it down the same amount it increased in lift capacity. At first it was noticeable but now after several weeks I don’t notice the speed differential.
First of all i would check the warranty.Second i would see what the cost of the front end part that will possibly break because the loader should be matched to the tractor never the less good video
There’s nothing to check, it voids the warranty if something related to front end stress were to occur. Front axle seals are cheap ($40/set) and relatively simple to replace. Keep in mind my tractor was already able to lift everything I asked of it. I’m not seeking to lift heavier weight, this just allows me to lift what I already was easier and with more control.
one of the first things Jake said was it voids the warranty, not to mention warranties don't last forever so why not try something like this at your own risk? Worse case scenario new bearing, a weld or two to fix the cracks in the axle. good content for more video to watch in my opinion. Good video Jake and Chris!
@@DudeRanchDIY There MUST be a "Special Place"( Kubota land is not one of them) to buy these "Ultra high tech seal-in-a-seal-rotating KUBOTA" Very expensive ( seals) & EXTRA parts to REBUILD just ONE of these front Spindals. Have done 3 whole sets on this same tractor & it costs at LEAST 240.°°$ per side with NO NEW bearings or races. Please direct me to this "cheep-o" price place & the complete list of parts to do A "Rebuild" on these front axle spindle's.
Hold on I have a slight bit of an issue with this. Gentlemen we are in America do what the hell you want lift as much as you can as often as you want You own the tractor, if you break it well you've bought it. Thank you for your hard work and investment. I love you Jesus Christ loves you, amen.
Very interesting and informative video !! However I do have a to me a very serious criticism. Drinking beer while operating a saw and tractor no matter how little is unacceptable and makes you look immature, unknowledgeable and infantile. I am old enough to either be you father or grandfather and have been using both of those implement throughout my life. So I'm not some dogooder chastising you. I know from experience, personally and from working with others. When using equipment there is never ANY place for ANY alcohol of any amount no matter how small. It does have an effect no matter how much you don't think so and not realize that will demonstrate just how mature you are or not. I would never be a sponsor of anyone for any reason if they were showing beer drinking while working especially if I was a beer manufacturer. Your response will reveal just what kind of person you are and if you channel will have serious value in the long run. Will it be childish or not??? I know what I hope it will be son, I'll just have to wait and see.. W.A. Derby
While I agree with pretty much everything you said and would never promote or condone drinking on a real job site, this video was shot on my property not doing anything even remotely close to actual work/equipment operation. The test was performed as safely and controlled as possible. I personally don’t see much wrong with a guy working on his tractor in his driveway on a nice day while enjoying a beer. That being said, everyone is entitled to their own opinion and I can respect yours. Thanks for watching!
@@DudeRanchDIY You are correct. However the image is what is left regardless of the intent. Drinking on the Job.. While it is as you intend meant innocently it just doesn't come off that way. You come off as a couple of hard working young men and that is REALLY important. Don't sully it with a beer on film. You don't want some dumb younger person watching and getting a stupid idea where for them one may lead to to many. Presenting yourself to the public makes you a potential leader.. IMHO the only leader you should project is that is only interest in doing things the safest way possible!!! I bet you have a good Conscience and if you found out that some stupid person got hurt after view a video where you drank beer and got hurt it would bother you. If not then your not really worth knowing and I'm betting the other way.
@@waynederby4684 take it eazy partner. When Safety Steve gets ahold of the throttle, there is ALWAYS a reason to crank it back, forgetting the frustration, stress and the feeling of always being watched or doing something wrong in the eyes of someone else has an impact on quality of life, progress individually and progress as a whole. Already SOOOOOO many road blocks in life stopping you from getting things done, just saying. People like you who judge others from a far with some nonsense rule you heard and are just word vomiting out to others while sitting on your high horse pretending to be knowledgeable are WAY more damaging to people than a dude having a beer on the weekend working on some.of his stuff and making an interesting video for others entertainment. I mean, to each their own....but kinda keep it to yourself unless you have some dang good and closely related data to back up your finger wagging. You have an option and so does everyone else. You can die while shopping for groceries, how far are we going to take safety Steve's regulations? It's getting to be a bit much, your comment is a PERFECT example of that.
It no hidden secret 2 things with any kabota eqipment. 1 all there machine they cheap out on there cylinders big time. There all under sized for the weight an hp of them.. 2 kabota the worst brand to do any work on. As a macanic. Just to do a simple repair or service there no room to work with out having to remove 6 to 10 other parts just to get to one. They Of a labor intent Brand witch for one is frustrating to the owner to work on an 3 times more costly to take it to a dealer for repair or service. You look at any kabota peace every cylinder just dont look right in So is racial. Cut cost well keeping the sale price high.. i have pulled many hairs out working on them an always asking my self.. Why would they do that. Id never buy one. Yes i rented many. But lost days of rent waithing on them to come fix it. Time on site for what should be a 1 hour job is 6.
Never had an issue with my Kubota tractor. It’s done everything I’ve asked of it and more. I also have done all of the regular scheduled maintenance myself and found it to be simple and easy.
Want to maximize your lift? HydrosPlus HERE: hydrosplus.com
VEVOR Crane Scale: amzn.to/3uqtyzh
Careful. The L3901 front axel is only rated for 2865LB so with that kind of load on your front loader you're getting real close to breaking the front axle if you bounce the load over rough terrain and hit it with a shock load.
What does the speed difference look like? Did you gain any lift height as well?
That’s the way tractors should come!!!
I agree!!
If "They came this way stock", they would BE in the "Shop" every two-three weeks instead of every two or three YEARS. The "manufacturers " are just realing trying to "Save the lives" of your typical " Green-horn home-lowner Twac-tor Driver". These "Almost Extreme " modifications are for ONLY the most "dareing & Experienced Operator's".
@@donaldstrishock3923 100% agree. I pull stumps with my L3302, and I've lifted the back end up (with a brush hog on) more than a few times from just increasing my PSI bypass to 2700-2800. Each time I do it I think "Well there's another 6 months off my bearing life." Maybe not that dramatic, but I'm certainly not doing my front axle any favors when I overdo it like that.
I like big numbers and big lift capacity, but I like my equipment to last, too.
Morning guys…that’s a sweet upgrade for the Kubota. The curl will probably shine the more you use it. Fantastic video 👍🍺
Thanks!
Nice video of being able to make a L3901 more workable around the woodyard!!! Stay Hydrated and Have a Safe Day
Thanks David! Enjoying the easier lifting already
Love it….I was thinking of doing the same thing and just didn’t know where to source the cylinder. I’ll be going on the website! Nice video.
Yep @HydrosPlus makes it easy!
Nice job on the cylinder swap out 👍
Thanks 👍
What a Great Improvement & Demostration, Fellows. On my "kubogy" MX5200 TLB it is as strong as l want it to be...maybe.! You guys MUST of "turned up" the hydraulic pressure a while ago....reason because the standard lift capacity was EXCEEDED / Plus the weight of those heavy duty pallet forks. My "unit" picks up only about 4 more "ounces" from idle-to full RPM's. I have never "jacked" with the Pressure,....but did change some hoses & FITTINGS; for a 40% increase of SPEED. It was Especially a BIG HELP when using the Back-hoe atachment ( a BH92). Even though a tractor-loader can LIFT a good amount; the "manufacture" only Suggests that only 60% is Used for moving materials. I have never had any problems with my tractors, BUT my Associate's HAVE...since they Call me ALL THE TIME for a "REBUILD" on their front axles....leaking,cracked & BROKE!!! I am surely Suprised on the "Price" of these After-market cylinders. They are a 4 for 1 BARGAIN compaired to "origional Dealer prices". Thank you Sir's for the Excelent vidio and happy safe tractoring. Best wishes with all your endeavours.
Haha I may have played around with my pressures previously 😉
@@DudeRanchDIY Thank you. I just "knew it"!.
What was being called the "bore" is actually the rod size. The Inside Diameter of the cylinder is properly called the bore, and is the same number as the piston diameter. The piston moves up and down in the cylinder and is fastened to the end of the rod, usually by a threaded rod with a nut on the end. sometimes the piston itself is threaded and acts as a nut.
Nice upgrade. Curious to see long term results. Thats gonna put a massive load on the front axle.
I don’t see it putting any more of a load on the front axle than I already was considering the stock cylinders were able to lift everything I asked them to. I’m not seeking to lift heavier objects, this just allows me to lift my totes and logs easier and with more control.
@@DudeRanchDIY you are correct. I should have said the potential is there, being that you can lift more now. Neil at messics did a video on how ballast weights affect weight applied to front ends. Very good video!
Thanks, I’d venture to say I have more ballast than most weighing in around 1,900lbs between rear tires and BTR. All of that help reduce excessive strain
Back ballast reduces front axle pressure by about 60% back to front on my BX. So I’m running 500# on the back to compensate for the 250# extra lift.
Very interesting video. It would be interesting to hear what your Kubota dealer might say about these replacement cylinders.
I’d be surprised if they even noticed the difference.
This is what I'm thinking of doing to a tractor when I get one...
Damn! Thats impressive. Great video guys
Thanks buddy!
Nice upgrade! Be careful. I’m pretty sure the manufacturer sizes everything appropriately to ensure longevity… YMMV but stressing other components can lead to catastrophic failure and it may get expensive. Just thinking out loud.
As I mentioned in the video my tractor already picked up everything I needed it to. This just allows for a little extra wiggle room, maybe even a set of heavier rotating pallet forks…
@@DudeRanchDIY Rotating forks would be perfect for your operation! Pricey, but man, what a game changer…
Good video guys! The tires are always my worry. Could try this in my 3039R but probably not on my 1026R. Nice test.
Yeah if I was consistently lifting that heavy I’d have to really fill the front tires but the heaviest thing I’m lifting are logs and full totes!
hi there guys most likley by now its the ark lift as abodes to a straight lift . good show john
Kubota ships the tractors with a wimpy pressure rating on the system. It is highly adjustable on the joystick control. I run my B7510 at 1800 pounds instead of 1500 in order to dump the lift trailer. My old rebadged Mitsubishi has a plaque in the cab with recommended hydro pressures. Maximum is a bit over 2000 pounds.
I shimmed my fel relief valve almost immediately upon purchasing the tractor, this kit made a big difference above and beyond that as well.
Nice. I wish my tractor lift little more. He don’t make kits for mine as of now. My curl will not do as much as my lift. Nice video 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for watching!
I think that stock lift capacity is actually pretty good. The weight of the forks are also part of the lift capacity so thats prob another couple hundred. Kubota says that loader lifts 1131 lbs at full height for reference
Yes the stock lift on my tractor was very good, as I mentioned I was already able to lift everything I needed. This just allows me to do it easier and with more control.
They are low specs compared to a lot of other brands. Branson/tym 2515 for instance has double the lift capacity. Kioti is much better as well.
"That being said..." Nailed it! 😂
“To be faaiiirrr…” 😂
That's awsome I would like more tilt with my forks
good stuff…….Jake love Chris bis jumpin in vids.
Impressive 👍 Thanks.
I have a 2008 Kubota tractor that use the same cylinders as yours. While it's very tempting to increase the lift capacity, the weak point of these loaders are the pins, particularly the bucket pins.
With my weak lift capacity, I had to replace several pins over the years because they tend to break in the middle where the grease gets out to lubricate the joins.
I imagine that lifting even more weight would result in more broken pins.
Good to know, I havent had any issues so far in the three years I’ve owned this machine
Nice gains for sure.
I was pretty impressed! Not everyone has a 75hp tractor like the HWM 😂
@@DudeRanchDIY lol true.
My only concern with that is now you really need to pay close attention to stress cracks.. if you see rust forming you may need to weld some plate to the area.. other than that this is an absolute game changer.. now you can lift a basket of wood with ease.. oh yeah.. make certain your attachment can handle the new limits.. great job guys
Yep as I mentioned I don’t really need to lift anything heavier than I already was. Just makes it easier to do so
Jake, weigh, one of your totes it be interesting to see what the scale says.
I’d like to do that!
just started watching your videos, you guys do an awesome job!! please do a follow up video on rotating pallet forks when you and AJ get it figured out. Gotta ask what is on ur hood?? a rat / mouse?? take care!!
Hey there thanks for watching! I will definitely be doing a follow up! Haha it’s a rubber chicken I found out in the woods one day! 🐔
I lift heavy logs all the time. This summer I replaced my front bearings and seals for the third time. My loader arms flex way more than they used to. It's fine on flat ground but lifting long heavy logs on slopes is not a good idea. It's just like building an off road truck. Do motor work and don't do your drivetrain and very quickly you will have to get a new heavier drivetrain. Then tires, then rims, then brakes and on and on. This upgrade is fine for your yard and totes though. Keep an eye on your hoses too. Chris, don't let Jake do this to your 1520. I broke my front wheel drive on my 1520 pulling tree roots out, it was an expensive fix.
Yeah as I mentioned I was already able to lift everything I needed to, this mod just gives me a little extra wiggle room
You have to add the weight of the forks.
I'm sure it's coming but I would like to see some IBC totes weighted with green verses wet wood
I will definitely be trying this! Turns out weighing big stuff is pretty fun!
Have you considered if your front axles can handle that weight, you will lift even heavier using the curl of your forks, I have broken 3 axles on a 444 international tractor when curling my load, 16 foot hard maple at 40 inch at the butt, not a good feeling when the tractor falls. My tree farmer I lowered the hydraulic pressure not to blow the axles drives, I know hydraulics.
Yep as I mentioned I don’t really need to lift anything heavier than I already was. Just makes it easier to do so
Playing catchup and watched the latest 2 videos. Love the lift capacity. Looks like Hydros Plus only makes cylinders for Kubota's, does anyone know another company that makes cylinders for Kioti?
I’ve been extremely impressed with them so far. He makes them for John Deere as well, give Kevin a call he might be working on other brands!
That’s BA! How do you think it’ll affect the front axle hubs and bearings?
Im not sure it will at all considering I was already able to lift everything I needed for the past 3 years with 0 issue.
I’ve learned that back ballast relieves the front axel pressure, typical fulcrum. So I have a heavy box if I’m doing anything past stock weights. Generally, I can fully offset the extra lift on the front.
1750. Also, how much UDT did you have to add?
Maybe 1/2-3/4 of a gallon
it says on the side of loader what it lifts. 525 kg
Seriously I would not do this reason being the engineering designed this tractor and loader to be compatible to weights that the frame-structured metal is designed for a weight that is safe for the tractors capacity to avoid metal fatigue breakdowns of welded joints and pump sized for a weight that it is able to handle along with hydraulic parts that are rated according to certain pressure limits based on size of hydraulic pump psi
Love your grill guard. Can I get the details
Tell them Jake from Dude Ranch DIY sent you! I love the grille guard. Has saved my front end numerous times.
www.5elevendesignz.com
I figured it was gonna rip the stump right out of the ground as soon as you went wide open throttle 😂
lol that would be impressive
Trade it in and Get a Bigger tractor.! It will be alot safer.! 🤔
Wish you would've checked the curl lift before and after
Wouldn’t have been all that accurate given the testing conditions. Break out force wouldn’t be accurate with the loader a few feet in the air.
Curious, how much did it slow the loader down?
Not by much, percentage wise it would slow it down the same amount it increased in lift capacity. At first it was noticeable but now after several weeks I don’t notice the speed differential.
First of all i would check the warranty.Second i would see what the cost of the front end part that will possibly break because the loader should be matched to the tractor never the less good video
There’s nothing to check, it voids the warranty if something related to front end stress were to occur. Front axle seals are cheap ($40/set) and relatively simple to replace. Keep in mind my tractor was already able to lift everything I asked of it. I’m not seeking to lift heavier weight, this just allows me to lift what I already was easier and with more control.
one of the first things Jake said was it voids the warranty, not to mention warranties don't last forever so why not try something like this at your own risk? Worse case scenario new bearing, a weld or two to fix the cracks in the axle. good content for more video to watch in my opinion.
Good video Jake and Chris!
Exactly, looking at this again, his comment makes sense, “lazyjoe” 😂
I own a Kubota L3560. It comes with 3 loader options; LA555, LA 805 & LA1055. All have the same tractor/front end
@@DudeRanchDIY There MUST be a "Special Place"( Kubota land is not one of them) to buy these "Ultra high tech seal-in-a-seal-rotating KUBOTA" Very expensive ( seals) & EXTRA parts to REBUILD just ONE of these front Spindals. Have done 3 whole sets on this same tractor & it costs at LEAST 240.°°$ per side with NO NEW bearings or races. Please direct me to this "cheep-o" price place & the complete list of parts to do A "Rebuild" on these front axle spindle's.
Can you not simply shim your PRV?
Already did that as well.
🎉
What’s the pocket knife? You have to know the Karen’s are coming.
CJRB Riff. Went from a $300 Benchmade edc to this and absolutely love it. amzn.to/3UHLWhF
You need to add air to your front tires.
I do! 😂
Hold on I have a slight bit of an issue with this. Gentlemen we are in America do what the hell you want lift as much as you can as often as you want You own the tractor, if you break it well you've bought it. Thank you for your hard work and investment. I love you Jesus Christ loves you, amen.
Couldn’t agree more!! Thanks for watching!!
I'd feel safer if I needed to lift more, just get a bigger tractor that can handle the weight.
In my case a bigger tractor would limit the maneuverability on clients properties.
Oh yeah just go drop 50k so you can lift more.
Very interesting and informative video !! However I do have a to me a very serious criticism. Drinking beer while operating a saw and tractor no matter how little is unacceptable and makes you look immature, unknowledgeable and infantile. I am old enough to either be you father or grandfather and have been using both of those implement throughout my life. So I'm not some dogooder chastising you. I know from experience, personally and from working with others. When using equipment there is never ANY place for ANY alcohol of any amount no matter how small. It does have an effect no matter how much you don't think so and not realize that will demonstrate just how mature you are or not. I would never be a sponsor of anyone for any reason if they were showing beer drinking while working especially if I was a beer manufacturer. Your response will reveal just what kind of person you are and if you channel will have serious value in the long run. Will it be childish or not??? I know what I hope it will be son, I'll just have to wait and see.. W.A. Derby
While I agree with pretty much everything you said and would never promote or condone drinking on a real job site, this video was shot on my property not doing anything even remotely close to actual work/equipment operation. The test was performed as safely and controlled as possible. I personally don’t see much wrong with a guy working on his tractor in his driveway on a nice day while enjoying a beer.
That being said, everyone is entitled to their own opinion and I can respect yours. Thanks for watching!
@@DudeRanchDIY You are correct. However the image is what is left regardless of the intent. Drinking on the Job.. While it is as you intend meant innocently it just doesn't come off that way. You come off as a couple of hard working young men and that is REALLY important. Don't sully it with a beer on film. You don't want some dumb younger person watching and getting a stupid idea where for them one may lead to to many. Presenting yourself to the public makes you a potential leader.. IMHO the only leader you should project is that is only interest in doing things the safest way possible!!! I bet you have a good Conscience and if you found out that some stupid person got hurt after view a video where you drank beer and got hurt it would bother you. If not then your not really worth knowing and I'm betting the other way.
@@waynederby4684 take it eazy partner. When Safety Steve gets ahold of the throttle, there is ALWAYS a reason to crank it back, forgetting the frustration, stress and the feeling of always being watched or doing something wrong in the eyes of someone else has an impact on quality of life, progress individually and progress as a whole. Already SOOOOOO many road blocks in life stopping you from getting things done, just saying. People like you who judge others from a far with some nonsense rule you heard and are just word vomiting out to others while sitting on your high horse pretending to be knowledgeable are WAY more damaging to people than a dude having a beer on the weekend working on some.of his stuff and making an interesting video for others entertainment. I mean, to each their own....but kinda keep it to yourself unless you have some dang good and closely related data to back up your finger wagging. You have an option and so does everyone else. You can die while shopping for groceries, how far are we going to take safety Steve's regulations? It's getting to be a bit much, your comment is a PERFECT example of that.
It no hidden secret 2 things with any kabota eqipment. 1 all there machine they cheap out on there cylinders big time. There all under sized for the weight an hp of them.. 2 kabota the worst brand to do any work on. As a macanic. Just to do a simple repair or service there no room to work with out having to remove 6 to 10 other parts just to get to one.
They Of a labor intent Brand witch for one is frustrating to the owner to work on an 3 times more costly to take it to a dealer for repair or service. You look at any kabota peace every cylinder just dont look right in So is racial. Cut cost well keeping the sale price high.. i have pulled many hairs out working on them an always asking my self.. Why would they do that. Id never buy one. Yes i rented many. But lost days of rent waithing on them to come fix it. Time on site for what should be a 1 hour job is 6.
Never had an issue with my Kubota tractor. It’s done everything I’ve asked of it and more. I also have done all of the regular scheduled maintenance myself and found it to be simple and easy.
nice!
Thanks!
Don't forget you can add the weight of your forks to those numbers. Mike🔥🪵
For sure! Extra weight of new forks is one of the main reasons I did this…