Sub Panel Install - Start to Finish - Outbuilding | Shop | Barn | Garage
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ค. 2021
- In this video I will show you how I wired a Sub Panel in an out building (Barn). You will see everything I did... from trenching in the wire to setting the Sub Panel to wiring the Sub Panel to connecting the wires in the Sub Panel to combining some breakers to make room for a new breaker in the main panel. Most everything from start to finish.
Some may wonder why I only ran 10-2 wire out to the barn. I got 250' of 10-2 wire free (left over from a job) and had it laying around. I don't think I will need more than that in this little barn I built... but if should I ran another 3/4" conduit under ground that I can use.
*Electricity is very dangerous to work with! If you are not comfortable and knowledgeable working with electricity I recommend you consult with and/or hire a licensed electrician to assist with or do your project.
I am not a licensed electrician and produced this video only for entertainment purposes.
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Disclaimer:
Although I have been following these procedures for many years; I assume no liability for any damage that may occur to any person or property as a result of the information provided in this video. I take necessary precautions (that I am aware of) when working on these projects but that in no way implies or creates any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any kind of particular result. Any injury, damage or loss of any kind to anyone or their property or anything related to information in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Helping U Online (this video). - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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That was a perfect and straightforward explanation. I especially appreciated your delineating the gauge differences.
I've been working on my food truck electrical since last spring, just found this video and it answered all my questions
Great job! Doing the exact same thing this spring : )
Thanks for this video. I've been looking for one like it that features just wiring the subpanel for 110V using 3 wire. It made sense to me that it could be done, but I still wanted to see someone do it.
You cant find a video of anyone wiring a subpanel with 3 wires because its not a thing. This is a disaster. Dont follow this video.
great video! thank you for taking the time!
Thank you
Good job😊
Good video. Some people nit pick some details and there could have been some improvements for future use. People fail to realize this is exactly what you needed and it worked. If you wanted to add a hot tub out there you will have a bunch more work but it is a barn. You know what you will use out there what it will entail to add more. Great job.
Definitely not true! Just because something works, does not mean that it's safe. I applaud the effort, but there are so many code violations, and unsafe conditions! I would strongly suggest an inspection by the JHA to ensure that there remains no dangers to anyone!
What is unsafe about it? He needed a couple circuits in his shed , I'm going to do the same thing! You say it's unsafe give an example! You can't!!!!
Awesome
Thanks expert work
I don't understand why you'd run #10 wire to that huge panel.
Thank you.
What color was the wire going into the new twin 15? Looked like a red to me. If your septic alarm and pump were wired with 12/3 WG, technically that would be incorrect as you would have 30 amps of overcurrent protection on a #12 neutral off the same line. Also, that would be a multiwire branch circuit requiring ties across the handles to turn off both at the same time. Required since 2011 NEC I believe.
Great job. I enjoyed the video. also if you ran 10 3 you could have more circuits in the future but still fantastic job. I appricciate your time.
Do you think I can use for two windows ac , lights and recepticals ,2=15 brakers, and 2=20 brakers ?
Horrible Job
I prob would've used at least a 8/3 JMHO but thanks for the vid!!! Keep up the hard work
Balloon framing is used in multiple story structures a garage is standard framing.
Because the 2nd story floor joists supports the studs,correct?
Seems like an awfully long distance for a 30 amp circuit with 10/2, personally would’ve stepped up to 8/2 for the distance
Should be no more than 57 feet for 120V and up to 114 feet for 240V on a 30 AMP breaker. That looks way further than 57 feet. But it may just look further than 57 feet.
Yeah I looked again it does look further than 57 feet.
Well you never know. Voltage drop is, dependent on wire size, length of run, and size of load. If you're just trying to run a couple led lights the load is so small that you'd have very little voltage drop. If you were running a table saw with a 3/4 HP motor the voltage drop would probably be so low that the circuit breaker feeding the receptacle would probably trip because the amperage would be so high. If it didn't trip, your motor might burn up operating on the reduced voltage.
Doesn't matter. He might have a very small load. Voltage drop is dependent on wire size, length of run,and size of load.
Ran in to this when I remodeled my pool found the rusted metal conduit full of water under the ground. Could not understand why the pool contractor ran all individual circuits all the way from my main panel instead of using a sub-panel. They told me it's cheaper to run bunch of smaller wire then running fewer heavy AWG wire. I told them I wanted a subpanel I could shut the power off right at the pump in case of an emergency didn't have to run back to my main service panel.
Thank you for the video, well done. QUESTION. I currently have a 10/2 wire coming from a 20-amp breaker running from my house going to my garage. I would like to install a sub panel in my garage and have breakers for my lights and outlets. Currently, it seems to be wired wrong and I really have no idea what's going on behind my walls. I was planning on ripping out all my drywalls, and completely re-wiring the entire garage. I really just need to know if I need to change my 20-amp breaker in my house in order to install a sub box. Thanks.
10-2 for a 20A circuit is in code.
BUT, it all depends on the distance from main to sub, considering droppage and is it under ground, in conduit or PVC.
I have a metal shed, a 20'x20' that I'm running a 100A sub panel to, which will be my work shop.
It's mostly 20A circuits, LED lights, and one 30A 230V for heater eventually.
All my 20A cricuits and LED lighting is run with 12-2 solid copper wires, with rhe exception of the 3-way light switch eith 12-3 solid copper wires.
I'm no electrician, been an industrial maintenance for 40 years. I am hiring a licensed electrician to double check my work and certify the work and repair as needed, so it can pass the county inspection to have a legit electrical permit on the building...just in case I decide to sell my house.
A 20 amp breaker can feed a 30 amp wire no problem. Less voltage drop using #10. But you are limited to 20 amps rather than 30, in which case you would have to change out the 20 for a 30.
With a 10-2, you can only use two 15 amp breakers!
so inside the main panel the natural and ground can be on the same bar? just the sub panel has to be separate? love the donkey.....
In the main panel the ground bar and neutral bar must be connected. In sub panels that is prohibited.
If a hot wire touches a metal cabinet, the connection between ground and neutral in the main panel provides a low resistance to current flow completing the circuit and causing the breaker to trip. However, if the ground and neutral are connected in the sub panel, it allows for the possibility of current to get onto ground at the sub panel and potentially energize any metal chassis connected to ground.
That is why ground and neutral must be connected at the main breaker panel but are not connected at sub panels.
I have never seen the main power feed come from the bottom of the box with the main breaker and the hot leads on the bottom. ?
Your first beaker isn't gonna pass any electricity because you didn't put power on that buss. If you are only bringing out 120v you should jump the lugs together with a piece of #10 wire if you wanna energize both busses.
You can’t drill through the side of the junction box. That’s against code.
You should have run the wire above the box then had the wire enter through one of the tabs.
Correct!
Did all of the breakers work in the new panel. Wouldn't you need 120 volts to both lugs that run to both bus bars? Otherwise only every other breaker would have power.
You are correct
Stay hydrated!
Nobody calls it balloon framing in the states. Stud walls, stick build.
need bushing/cable clamp for feed to gang box
Into the gang box without using the proper entry is also problematic. No clamp on that side either because it's definitely not intended to be drilled and used that way.
It appears to me that the 15A breaker installed in the barn was NOT a GFCI breaker as stated, just a normal breaker.
12:14 15A breaker in sub panel.
17:13 30A breaker installed in the main panel - Is there any requirement this must be a GFCI breaker?
@@satsangatwenissangatwam8422 I may be wrong but I thought all outlets had to be GFCI protected in an out building but could be done at the outlet level and not at the breaker level.
Good video , But your big hands with gloves - hard to see what bar the ground and white wire got screwed into . Unless both bars are ground . It been nice to point each wire or better yet where the camera could see and then the screw you screwed down .
Unless one wire went threw both bars !
In the main panel wiring where I am wearing gloves... The bare copper wire went into the ground bar. The white wire went into the neutral bar.
Sorry I did not show that better in this video.
I believe you created a code violation by adding an additional ground rod. By doing that you created a separate pathway for a short to travel instead of one path from the main panel to the sub panel like it’s supposed to do
Nope no code violation just waste of many, not needed per code
You are right! Plus voltage drop.
@@thomasmarable6818 I agree, that's a waste and not necessary.
Sub panels in detached buildings most definitely need a ground rod.
@@thomasmarable6818 Please check again! Required an must be connected to ground bar.
Do you use pex cutter to cut the conduit?
Yes
Was that romex wire you ran in conduit?
10/2
Romex is not allowed in wet conditions (underground conduit as condensation can form even if sealed). You could technically run UF (direct burial) in the conduit if the conduit meets volume size limits so that it would not overheat. Normally you would run individual THWN (wet rated) labeled wires inside the conduit (much easier to pull). Most THHN wire is also rated THWN but that is not always the case.
I don't see a ground rod and grounding electrode. If that's is a detached building you need a ground rod with a number 6 bare for a grounding electrode system.
The previous home owners ran a buried an....extension cord out to our barn...Worked just fine until the dogs dug it up, and the lawn mower ran over it. So doing it this way should be very easy, with no worries. 👍
How many amps is the main panel?
200
Illegal. If this is a seperate out building you're required to have a main breaker in that subpanel
I do not believe that is 100%. Some areas I believe allow you to forgo a main breaker for a subpanel if all of the breakers on the subpanel can be turned off quickly (one hand).
No you don't for a 4 circuit panel.
Rule of six! Even though it's in a separate building it doesn't need a main disconnect because it's only 4 circuits.
Article 225.30 absolutely requires a “disconnect” for a branch circuit or feeder to one building from another. A main breaker can be a disconnecting means. So can a fused or non fused safety switch. The six switch rule can not be used as that is for “Mains”. The smallest “Main” allowed in NEC is 60 amperes. The disconnect requirement is not an overcurrent issue.
Only if it's more than 6 circuits.
Does the height or location of the subpanel matter in an outbuilding?
Maximum breaker height of any and all panels is 6’-7” AFF.
Just cause it works doesn't make it right. That panel is a hot mess.
You went to all that trouble and expense just to run #2 to a 20 amp breaker? # 6 Quadruplex is actually less expensive and more useful in the long run.
No romex clamps on the wires.
Your main has ground rod. You dont want a ground rod on sub.
Yes you do want a ground on a sub in a detached building.
its actually required in a separate building with separate ground bar and grounding screw removed
Tell me you aren’t an electrician without telling me lol
Do not follow this video they did not berate the conductor don't put Romex in a conduit
For all the $ and BS why not just use a GFCI and tap off of that? waste of time and money for a hack job that you cant ever expand upon.
That first breaker doesn't have power to it as that buss bar didn't get wired to power.
Wires too small.
So much wrong here I don't know where to begin....smh.
haha yeah im thinking the same
How about giving us just one or two examples...if you can. Seems to me like you can't.
Sounds to me like you're fishing. If you know even just a little bit about wiring, you'd be shaking your head.
So wrong it actually worked.
Nobody should ever in their life use this video as a installation of a sub panel. Its straight wrong.
yOUR FEEDER WIRE IS WAY UNDERSIZED!
#6 IS GOOD FOR 65 AMPS DEPENDING ON WHAT TYPE OF WIRE! dONT MAKE ANY MORE OF THESE VIDEOS. ALL BAD INFO!
He is only using 1) 15 AMP breaker. 10/2 AWG wire is more than adequate. I have 10/2 AWG running to a 4 circuit sub panel on a 30 AMP 2 pole breaker for my water heater. I only have the 1) 30 AMP 2 pole breaker in the sub panel. You don't want to go any higher than 30 AMP on a 10/2 AWG wire.
I suggest you getting some knowledge of an electrician before you even start! 1 your wire looks bundersized, making your conduit is undersized. 2 what is the length of wire your running to the subpanel to your main? over 100'? If so it needs to be derated.....so meaning the wire sized needs to be bigger! 3 Dont just drill into the side of your 3 gang box, but whatever , wont count that! The list keeps going on. SERIOUSLY GET HELP. I SEE A FIRE IN YOUR FUTURE!