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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ส.ค. 2024
- This video shows how to install a crimp-on type BNC male connector onto RG-8X coax cable. The connector shown is available from Max-Gain Systems. The specific connector used here can be found at:
mgs4u.com/product/bnc-male-cr...
The installation guide, datasheet, etc. can all be found on this page as well.
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.79[2/2] มานั่งฮ้านกินข้าวนำกันเด้ออ้ายยย](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pHIS_Sdy8P8/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello, you do it beautifully, I crimped them until my hand hurt, the middle pins were also crimped, there was no time and conditions for soldering 🤪 I have a tool that cuts the cable exactly to the dimensions at once as a whole.
Nice day 🙂 Tom
Hi Alan,
You always make adding connectors look easy. Stay safe. 73 WJ3U
thank you for the great videos. Very helpful..
Nice tutorial.. 👍 for heat shrink these days I only use the type with glue inside, it's so much better than regular heat shrink.
Me too - the ones I used in the video have a small amount of adhesive inside. Marine-grade stuff.
Awesome connector install video!
I love using RG8X coax. MUCH better than RG58, but not big and bulky like RG8. I've run 800 watts through it all the way through 10 meters without any issues that I could see. Reading some comments I'd like to add that a great invention would be heat shrink tubing that can be added AFTER a cable has been assembled. This would be great in the automotive industry as well so you can seal wires or cables without disassembling them. I've been know to put a drop of hot glue inside of heat shrink tubing as well even though they make heat shrink tubing with glue in it.
I'm curious about your 600 ohm open wire feeder system on your HF antennas. It would be interesting if you did a video on comparing the advantages and disadvantages of different open wire feeders, especially comparing results using the same antenna. I use 300 ohms here and love it, but I am curious to experiment with different feedlines as well.
Take care and have a great holiday season!
Nice as always.
Great video. I beat the hell out of my coax connectors by throwing them into backpacks, exposing them to elements, high winds, moisture, etc., and the recommendation to add solder and really bolster the connector with multiple shrink layers are in my experience the difference between a connector that fails vs one that stands up to the test of time. Another option is temflex covered by Super 33... doesn't score high in the looks department but creates one hell of a protective shield against bends and the elements.
The marine grade heat-shrink with the epoxy or adhesive inside does a very nice job as a strain relief.
You missed the step where you realise you'd forgotten to put the ferrule and heatshink on the cable before clicking on the BNC.
Optional extra step is to only remember the ferrule at the previous step, then realise you'd forgotten the heatshrink, forcing you to disassemble again.
That's why I mentioned it at least once in the video ;-)
I'm now quite certain, after years of rigorous testing, that it is physically impossible to remember to slide the required parts over the cable without first soldering on the connector at least once 😜 I can't be the only one, right?
@@gregkrobinson You are *CERTAINLY NOT* the only one! Guilty as charged...
Alan, thank you but it would be great if you could show how you originally trimmed the braid so neatly.
I trimmed the shield slowly and carefully with a small pair of high-quality diagonal wire cutters.
Yes, showing the corrections along the way helps us newbies. I use a small pair of surgical scissors to trim. A lucky find.
Thanks for sharing with us.
thank you for the great videos. Very helpful 👍👏
Another great video! Your videos have given me the confidence to do connectors and now quite enjoy it. I still struggle with type N connectors and larger coax like RG-8 etc. maybe that’s one that will be coming up. Thank you Alan and 73!
I've done one with a crimp style N connector on very large coax (LMR-600), does this help?
th-cam.com/video/31mEyuqM01U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=BGi5AVWLMwyonymz
@@w2aew absolutely! Thank you.
RG-316 is trickier and I would like to see that done. That's the Teflon outer jacket and I would like to see the braids handled as well and up to and including any solder used at the pain at the end of the tip where the center conductor comes through. Please use the ferrule type. Please use a PL-259 connected with respect to the RG-316 for terminating the cable.
Excellent
👍 sir thank you for the video. question out of curiosity can we use pin diode for passive frequency multiplier circuit ?
3:33 The smaller heat shrink tubing didn't need to be put on before the BNC male connector?
Another great useful video, thanks!
What is the high-pitched hissing type noise in the background in the first minute or so?
That is my hot-water boiler (heating system) about 8 feet from my bench in the basement.
Thanks for sharing.
I guess this type of connecting is old.
Try BNC Compression Connector, its newer technology.
I have not seen a BNC in this design yet (I have a stock of the type shown, but in the compression design I use F connectors, it is faster to work with them, but I have already loosened a few of them, this type is more laborious, but it holds all of them so far.
Nice day 🙂 Tom
@@Edisson. Of course, each has its own advantages and disadvantages. Crimp-on is probably cheaper but it takes more time to do it. BNC Compression Connector is faster and easier, and I never had any problems with it.
Newer isn't better. Crimp connectors require a more specialist tool, don't work with stranded inner wires, and generally are not suitable for connectors that are (dis)connected a lot like in a lab/hobby environement. They also demand very precise cable thickness.
@@gartnl I would like to thank Alan for explaining things very clearly.
I am a fan of his clips and watch them as soon as he posts them.
Here is an I.Q. question for people who are interested:
The relation between F connector to BNC connector is Like:
SMA connector to:
A. SMB Connector
B. Cheese cake
C. Soft Drink
D. Oranges
I wish they had SMA or SMB Compression Connector , it would made life much easier.
The hardest connection to make is IPEX connector. It is too difficult to build and I always buy the ready made ones. It is used very often in cell phones.
@@aduedc I'd say B, but that is 'cause I love cheesecake.
Every connector has it's use. Compression connectors that use the inner core as center pin simply are not meant for frequent change of the connection. I would not like F on my scope. Nor a compression BNC.
Hey @John, can we have a link to that little butane troche with the hot air attachment please?
Here it is: iso-tip.com/product/pro-90-butane-soldering-iron-torch-kit-9010
A lot of companies make similar ones. I bought a butane Weller years ago that has pretty much exactly the same accessories including the torch tip.
@@chitlitlah Actually, while looking for this on Amazon I found something better. I ordered the "Mini Heat Gun, 350W 662°F Tiny Hot Air Gun Kit" for only $16. Good for heat shrink tubing and hot enough to melt solder with air.
with the correct crimping tool you shouldnt have to solder the center pin, the "wheep hole" is there to see if youve inserted the core far enough. but soldering is fine too
Agreed, but I generally don't like to crimp when the conductor is stranded and the terminal needs to fit into a drilled hole.
why? crimping stranded wire is just fine and soldering just gives you a chance of to much solder to remove because it needs to fit into a hole, plus the extra work it involves. dont get me wrong, if i dont have the right crimping tool i would absolutely solder the connection.@@w2aew
@@adriaan9011 The center pin terminal doesn't appear to be designed like a "proper" crimp terminal, so i wasn't sure how well it would crimp onto stranded wire (that might squish around a bit)
No one solders anymore. 😂😂
👍 73` 88`
Theres a crimp for the inner pin FYI and you really should be using a boot, not heatsink if you want the cable to last.