#230
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- This short video shows how to install a crimp style BNC connector onto RG-58 50 ohm coax. Installation of other crimp style coaxial connectors will be similar. Note that the connectors are specific to the type of coax being used, and having the correct crimping tool is really a necessity. You can optionally (carefully) solder the center pin, and optionally finish up with some heat shrink tubing for clean professional look.
![[393] How to Crimp TNC Connector to Coaxial Cable - RG6/ RG8](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7PdkSNLC2Ks/mqdefault.jpg)
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The one thing this video doesn't mention that I screwed up (and that AVIVX's video does mention) is pushing the BNC connector down hard enough until you feel the snap of the pin seating. Otherwise the pin won't extend far enough for as solid of contact as desired with the mating connector.
Excellent point - I am going to pin this comment to the top so other viewers will see it.
Pin from the coaxial keeps breaking.. gotta be another way or I'm doing something wrong
When we view some of these Do it yourself" videos, some of the contributors tend to go off the deep end, showing you their "shacks," listening to them talk to their barking dogs, and musings about their personal lives, all the while they are supposed to be "teaching" us something, like putting a connector on a wire. Your video was excellent: to the point, no unnecessary commentary, and detailed instructions.
Even thought I wasn't in the market for such instruction, I found myself watching it to the end, just in case I may need it someday!
Good job!
Thanks!
It's like trying to get to the recipe part of a recipe, but whoever wrote the blog is yapping their yapper. JUST GET TO THE DAMN RECIPE! 😅
I learned how to do that about 35 years ago, putting BNC connectors on RG-58 style coax for "thin" Ethernet. The steps you showed matched up almost exactly with how I did it. I could not agree more on your point that you need to match the connector to the cable and then the tools to the connector. I had to work with Belden 8997 cable (I think it was) which was for air plenum use, basically almost like Teflon, no smoke during a fire. It was new enough that I had to use one crimp tool for the center pin and another for the outer crimp ferrule. Regular coax could use the same center pin tool but yet another for the ferrule.
Nicely done video overall, just enough details, long enough without being too long.
Take care, Sir!
Love your measuring tips, and how you trimmed the braid.
Very nice Alan. I like the crimp method. When I worked on 800 MHz trunk radio we were not allowed to crimp them on, all had to be soldered. Thanks for sharing.
Crimper came in as I had unseated the last crimped connector. I pulled up your video and followed the instructions. Worked great!!! Thanks!!
Now, this is nice, clear, complete and professional training. Bravo.
Excellent description, simple and precise.
Really great, well shot and narrated video. Thank you very much.
+kuro68000 Thank you!
+w2aew - Except for the wife working in the background! LOL... ;-)
+ElmerFuddGun hehe, while watching the video I was figuring out what was happening in the background. No worries, the video was great!
Very nice tutorial. I would like to point out, You forgot to mention the center pin on those BNC's is captive and that the pin should click into place when inserting the coax into the connector. Once the pin is inserted you should not be able to pull the coax back out if you can then it's not installed all the way.
Also an easier way to install the connector under the braid is to fan the braid by gripping the coax jacket just under the trim point, place the connector on the dielectric just above the braid and carefully rotate the dielectric in a circle by flexing the dielectric this will fan out the braid uniformly, much harder to explain than actually do.
I like to use 4-1 adhesive lined heat shrink as a strain relief. I also add a tiny piece of thinner colored heat shrink over the thicker adhesive lined stuff on both ends for color coding. Makes it easier to quickly identify what test lead is attached to what device. For example on my bench red is always the input to sensitive test equipment such as spectrum analyzer inputs.. I always use green for outputs from signal generators, yellow is always DUT .... Anyhow you get the idea
+Dan Nelson Not all BNC connectors have the captive design on the center pin. The cheap connectors I picked up do not, for example. But, the higher quality ones do.
+w2aew "Not all BNC connectors have the captive design on the center pin"
I didn't know that, All the BNC's I've used had captive center pins. I thought the purpose of the captive pin was to relieve the dielectric and center conductor of the insertion load. If the pin is not captive then the dielectric and center conductor take all the compressive force when connecting the BNC.
Anyhow very nicely done video, thanks.
Very good job sir
You make this look easy... I am going to blame the cheap and nasty coax I have. Still practice makes perfect!
Good video. Bought some crimp connectors... don't know why, maybe because they are cheap. I hate crimp on connections.
When you push the cable with the pin into the main connector body, there should be s slight click as it locates.
It depends on the design/manufacturer of the connector - some of them click into place, some don't.
We've been buying needlessly expensive BNC cables in my lab for years and of course they are never quite the length you want. I was happy to see your tutorial because I've learned so much from your other videos. Now I feel like an idiot for never making my own sooner...
Thanks a lot for your details
love you alan for these awesome videos
if you're installing security cameras and using either RG59 or RG6 I think it's better using a compression tool rather than a crimping tool. a compression tool if far stronger and more accurate length
Thanks, very easy to follow tutorial!
Thank you for your sharing, i learned new information on your video Wich woll help me a lot in my work
Great educational video. I prefer soldering the the center pin, but you have to be quick, else the polyethylene expands and you won't be able to get it into the connector. I have had trouble with crimped center pins. They are OK initially, but after a few years the connection degrades from oxidation I suspect. I also use heat shrink as you mentioned, allot of bending at the shield crimp ferrule.
If you are having trouble with crimps, then you're either using the wrong tool die or the wrong connectors for the cable.
A _properly_ done crimp has contact pressures exceeding 1000 tons per square inch, resulting in the bond becoming stronger over time as metal ions migrate between cable and pin/ferrule, resulting in a cold weld.
Soldered connectors have a maximum lifespan of about 30 years (lead solder) and it's much less with lead free solder. These are both due to tin whisker growth (it happens with leaded solder, just not as quickly.
Really good video!
Simple, straightforward, and informative. What is "the right size" die slot to use for the center pin and for the ferrule?
Great video except for one very important thing. You did not mention the crimp die sizes. My crimper has six die sizes and It is supposed to be used for 58, 59 and 174 coax. I think I got the correct dies. I used 0.213" for the collar and and 0.068" for the center pin.
I approached crimping the center pin a bit differently. I placed the pin in the jaws of the die and closed it enough to hold it in place then inserted the center wire and crimped the pin. It held tight and I didn't have to finagle the wire with the pin on the end into the crimping die.
The center pin typically used a 0.068" die, and the outer ferrule 0.213". But, always best to check the sizes recommended by the connector manufacturer.
Oh please, please, show an N connector. One that requires the mother of all soldering irons.
Nicely done video
Hey Alan - another great video. Just a couple of comments from someone who has done thousands of BNC crimps. Firstly, to get the best result, you need to have the correct crimp tool - not just a good quality one, but the correct one. Secondly, the purpose of the hole in the side of the centre pin is so you can see the end of the centre core. It is not a solder hole and I don't recommend you solder the centre pin. Thirdly, as Axel mentions below, with some manufacturers, the centre pin "clicks" into place. Fourthly, some people tend to double-crimp the shield. This is considered bad practice and is not recommended. Recommended practice is to crimp once hard up against the connector body. This allows the open end to flare - which provides strain relief and catches the coloured boot (if fitted). Which leads me to the last point - you can buy coloured plastic boots to fit over the larger crimp (in lieu of the heatshrink you mention). But again, you need to get the exact right boots for the connector and cable. If you are doing any significant quantity of crimped BNCs, then buy the connectors, boots and crimp tool from the same manufacturer. The manufacturer of choice used to be Greenpar, but they go brought up by Tyco (TE Connectivity) so you need to be careful you get the old Greenpar designs with the Greenpar crimp tool. HTH
+Smudger Dave Thank you for all of the great comments - it's always nice to get the voice of experience.
+Smudger Dave
Why do you recommend people not to solder the center pin? Thanks for the tips.
+Robert Calk Jr. - If you have the correct crimp tool for the connector and the cable, there is no need to solder - crimping is quicker. The only reason you might want to solder is if you have the wrong crimp tool or out of specification cable. Professionally, this would be seen as a failure. Also, as mentioned below, you need to be careful with soldering as its easy to use too much solder and have the pin not click into the insulator properly. The BNC connector/cable combination has a characteristic impedance and excess solder may distort the dielectric insulator (affecting the impedance) and finally a solder joint has less flexibility and is more prone to stress fracture than a crimped joint. I concede that these are small points. HTH
+Smudger Dave
OK, thanks. I'm just a hobbyist and always assumed that soldering was best anytime it's possible. I made my own leads for my DC power supply out of quality wire and crocs because the cheap leads that came with it melted when the power got up to around 4A. After crimping the crocs to the wires, I soldered them also thinking I would get better connections if the solder filled any air gaps within the connection.
Do you experts think I was wasting my time worrying about soldering them?
+Robert Calk Jr. - No if you are not sure your crimp worked out perfectly then adding solder is good, provided you don't need flexibility at the junction between the wire and the terminal.
Soldering is one tool in your armoury and is often not the best solution (for some combination of cost, time taken, reliability, quality statistics and capital investment).
Not only is crimping better than solder, (done properly, natch); Insulation displacement is better; resistance welding (spot welding) is better; ultrasonic welding is better (under certain circumstances) and cage-clamping is better than solder. Spring-clamping is arguably better than solder providing the terminal design is good. The list goes on.
In fact, soldering can be the cause of problems. Solder exhibits a mechanical phenomenon called "cold flow". If you tin the end of a wire with solder then clamp the tinned end under a screw in a screw terminal, over time the solder will move away from the high-pressure exerted by the point of the screw. After a few months, the screw will be loose and the connection unreliable.
If you can do it by not using proper tools to strip the wire, depends on how large of a bandwidth you need.
Larger bandwidth has basically zero tolerance for errors when stripping the wire.
+Mtaalas True. But, you generally would use BNC cables/connectors above a few GHz anyway.
I can't find mcx to sma cable in india, can I make one using this technique and great video as always : )
I like that last add with the shrinking tube. I do this, and I think people working in the field of CCTV's should absolutely do this as a standard.
The thing I hate about crimps is that when you don't do them very often you almost have to relearn the process all over again (just like soldering them!). Coincidence seeing your video (great BTW!) as I just needed to put some crimps onto a run of LMR240 and LMR400 and really like the stiff wire trick to measure the length of the inner dielectric; silly me sitting there with a micrometer and trying to eyeball it! DXEngineering has some really nice coax prep tools that nicely strip the outer cover and minimize the chance of nicking the inner conductor. TNX Alan! 73 - Dino KL0S
Thanks Dino. Good tip on DXengineering.
Hi, very informative can these same hand crimps be used on Fakra type connectors for Coax cable for automotive sat nav cable make up?
Or would you suggest others purely for home project diy use
As long as you are using the correct die set for the connectors/cable in your application, a quality ratcheting crimper like these will be fine. I am not familiar with Fakra connectors, but if they have a set designed to be crimped, then they should be able to recommend the appropriate die set.
Cheers to you for producing this vid. So simple to follow... my first time putting replacing a PL connector with a BNC went flawlessly.
When I solder the centre pin I first wet the wire with solder, then wet the hole of the centre pin from the back, grab it with some pliers, heat it from the back and slip it on the wire, while pulling the iron away. This way I don't get solder on the outside of the centre pin, because I'm only touching it with the iron form the back.
+Jack White That's a nice technique.
Very nice tutorial, clear and paced nicely. de W2DAB
Very good wonderful work
Tip for the centre pin is to gently grip it in the tool and then put the centre core in and then crimp.
As well you get a nice extra boot that you can use instead of the heatshrink, though it is good to slip a small piece of clear adhesive lined heatshrink tube over first, which then is used to hold a strip of paper laser or inkjet printed with a cable identifier. Or use larger cable markers, which slip over before crimping.
+SeanBZA Some very nice tips, thank you.
Great video!
Great vid my good friend. I'm learning new things every time. This vid will certainly come in very handy for future DIYs thanks for sharing. 👍oh by the way I just subscribed to your videos have a good one mate
Thanks for crimping the center connector! There are a lot of videos from the CCTV guys on youtube who just leaves it hanging, without any crimping.
On another note, I was always taught that the center pins without the tiny side-hole should be crimped, and the ones with the tiny side-hole should be soldered to the center conductor of the coax.
+NatureAndTech These were advertised as crimp-or-solder. The solder hole is at one end of the sleeve, so that there is a good solid area for crimping as well.
+w2aew I can see how soldering can lead to less loss in the longer term due to oxidation limitation. A proper solder joint with the eutectic dissolving into solution with the copper provides a high integrity bond with maximum contact for best conductance and lowest inductance. Matters of some value in mobile RF/UHF devices.
+NatureAndTech CCTV 'guys' can escape with a lot of 'losses' or leakage which would not be acceptable to power limited devices, especially mobile or medical (for EMI reasons).
Excellent Video. Thank You
Very clear and concise instructions on how to crimp on the connector. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Now it's time to put into practice!
Is a BNC connector generally found on hand held radios rather than mobile radios or am I making a dangerous or arrogant assumption?
A BNC is common on many VHF handhelds as well as many QRP (low power) HF radios. It is also VERY common on test equipment like oscilloscopes and function generators.
Dear W2AEW, thank you very much for taking the time for sending to me your thoughtful reply. @@w2aew
Thanks this gave me the confidence to try it myself and it worked out great
I'm in the process of running my RG58 into my new truck and top it off with a BNC connector.
I notice you use the TriCrimp frame with a particular dye set.
I've looked and asked around but nobody could tell me where to order the crimping tool, and which dye set to order with it?
Any info would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Not sure where you are located, but I bought mine at a local ham radio store (Ham Radio Outlet). They are also available from www.powerwerx.com. The die used in this video is part of the TRIDIES set.
You probably have it by now, but Coaxwarehouse has the tool and the connectors sold together. For the first time user this may be a way to go. Then you can buy additional jaws for other coax connectors as needed. Here is an Ebay listing for one of their selections. It is for rg-8 so you have to search them for the rg 58 type.
www.ebay.com/itm/Crimp-tool-Crimper-10-x-PL-259-UHF-male-crimp-connector-RG8U-RG213-Belden-8267-/130620425799
What diameter crimp did you use for this assembly?
What's a millimeter?
I use the king's measurements.
Alan, per usual, timely and useful guide. Thanks!
..at the risk of being hyper-tangential, would you ever consider doing a video on measuring receiver sensitivity (db, s+n/n, etc.)? It would be very popular, I am certain.
Thanks es 72,
Bill, k6whp
Thanks! Because of your video I was able to purchase the correct tools and parts to repair the RG58 cable to my wireless in ear monitoring system.
One of the best instructional videos seen - including other topics. No baloney.
will you please tell me where to buy these connectors at the best value ?? Also I have the same crimp to as you. Did you purchase the entire Die Set for your crimp
Tool. Thank , You Fred
You can buy them very inexpensively on Amazon or Ebay, but the quality might be suspect from some of them. Or, you can get higher quality unit from places like this: www.l-com.com/coaxial-50-ohm-bnc-crimp-plug-for-rg58-195-series-cable
Crimp tools are expensive but necessary to do the proper job. Don't skimp on your tools.
Alan - Having forgotten how many cables I've made up over the years I'd like to add one minor variation. When measuring to cut the braid I like to add a further 0.5 to 1 millimetre to allow for the loss in the bend of the braid round the inner ferrule depending on the actual design. It may not be much but I believe it makes for a better connection.
+Anon T Good tip.
Can you use the same BNC connectors for RG8x cable that is used for RG59 cable?
No, there are minor dimensional differences between 75ohm BNC and 50ohm BNC connectors.
Thats is realy cool
Thanks for the explanation, you make it look easy
+w2aew Nice video, I work in aerospace and do tons of these connectors on a regular basis. I would like to see you do a Triax TNC next, if you get some time. Triax can be tough, especially when doing the center pin. The connector I use the most is the Amphenol 31-2675-1, or the 31-8357-3.
Thanks for posting this video, now I can show the new guys how to do BNC connectors.
the first part number you gave was for a CLAMP connector. I prefer a CLAMP any day over anything else.
Another great video Alan. Does that nice crimper you have also do connectors for RG-174? If so would you mind telling us where you acquire it? By the way, I made Extra last month. 5 months from Tech to Extra. Now to learn Morse code...
73's
KC3FKX
+Nicholas Bantell I got the crimper from Ham Radio Outlet, also sold by www.powerwerx.com. I think the smaller hex will crimp connectors designed for RG-174, but I'm not positive. Congratulations on the Extra, that's great!
Man this brings back memories!! I don't miss the pre-rj45 pc network days.
+maxsnts oh yes i remember my first pair of NICs in the late 80s NE2000 ....
+maxsnts Me to :)) I did around....... 30000 ends or something like this.
+Mike Herbst , ah yes the ISA BUS cards and the 'screw' on BNCs of which I still have a few!
+maxsnts
Oh yeah! The LAN party times where half the time was spent fixing the network, because someone brought a dodgy cable or broke one by rolling over it with the chair.
+superdau heh, I recall point to point gaming across a null modem cable and Warcraft 2, zug zug!
Very helpful! Thanks from Brazil!
Good video... Thanks.
Another great demo as usual. I do have one suggestion. When crimping contacts onto small wires I find it preferable to place the contact in the tool and then insert the wire into the contact. I do this for all connector styles. The position of the contact in the tool is usually quite critical and can be varied enough to make a poor connection. I also want to point out that BNCs are readily available in both 50ohm & 75ohm impedance. I don't know of a way to distinguish between them visually so be careful when buying them because the seller might not know what they are selling. Coax is usually marked with an identifying number and sometimes the impedance so if the connector fits the coax it's likely the correct impedance.
Hello
Thanks a lot, your videos are of great help.
Excellent, thanks for sharing your knowledge!!!
Very well Done Alan! Thank you! 73's David. K8KEM
This video is most excellent. Being a (newish) General level Ham operator, I'm experimenting with antennas, so this information comes in so very handy. I picked up all those tools, so I'm set to go - thank you!
Thank you and kuro68000 said it for me, I really look forward to all your videos you have taught an old stockman, (cowboy) a lot about electronics, knowledge to me is not about power, it is about sharing, learning, and a essential requirement for the human brain.
My problem, it is not RG-58, Where the 6 connectors in DVR, The cable is very small diameter. The end of cable connect to DVR. Also it is 100 ft in length, and coming from the floor from crawl space. .The BNC is already installed in cable, like about 8 connectors on the wire assembly. Problem the cable broke off the connector.
Why are some connectors rated for 50 ohms, but they fit on a 75 ohm cable? For instance, the Amphenol 31-4321 BNC connector is 50 ohms, but it was made to fit on RG59 cable which is 75 ohms.
Thanks for the video. Can u please specify the info on the crimp tool. I urgently need one My techs are not here to help, so i must go over the video and follow the steps.
This is the tool I used:
powerwerx.com/tricrimp-powerpole-connector-crimping-tool
Additional crimp dies for different applications, like this BNC application, are found here:
powerwerx.com/tricrimp-tridies-accessory-die-sets
This comment/request might be a little out of scope, to calibrate a Tek SG503 Tek says a special cable is required, Tek part 012-0482-00. This is an extremely expensive 3 foot 50 ohm BNC cable, $200+ on ebay. There's a discussion going on at TekScopes@group.io about the need for this cable and thought this was right up your alley for a video. How do you make a precision application cable in the home workshop? What is this cable doing that another 3 foot 50 ohm terminated cable can't do? I'm a m addicted to collecting Tek 500 series plugins for my home lab and have a SG503 and would love to make one. Thanks and love your videos.
I looked up the engineering specs for that cable - doesn't look like anything super special. 012-0482-00 refers to a 36" +/-0.5" long RG-58C/U cable with BNC connectors and strain reliefs. The BNC connectors are to be per MIL-C-39012 spec, which basically applies to most high-quality (reputable manufacturer) connectors, rated to 4GHz, max insertion loss of 0.2dB at 3GHz, VSWR of 1.3:1 max with TFE insulation. Nothing super special, just a 3' 50ohm coax made with quality materials.
Hi everyone - I have been stuck on a cable that doesn't have a single copper pin going down the middle. There are several wires spun together so it has been difficult to crimp a pin on. Does anyone have any advice how to crimp a centerpin onto this cable? Thanks in advance.
Thanx! From video: outer jacket, 20-25mm; shield length left: 7 mm (≈ connector ferrule length); insulator left: probe with a wire and bend (2m38s); central conductor: with pin over it, pin should touch insulator, cut small bits progressiveley. Voilà! Salutations du Québec!
I always use rg402/rg405 semi rigid cables just because I can solder them to the cable without crimping. I am unable to get these crimp connectors right 50% of the time for some reason.
Alan: Can you consider doing a video about DIY cables being assessed using a VNA or perhaps an SA and compare clamp/solder/crimp style results over IoT/Wifi frequencies?
+Ancel UnfetteredOne I don't have a VNA (yet), but when I do....
+w2aew Ok, I am getting into the IoT arena and tuning of impedance and antenna matching for optimum range using ESP8226 modules is going to become a focus. I recently got a calibrated HP8753D S parameter VNA and a professional SMA SOL cal kit from KirkBy Microwave. Soon some professional 26.5Ghz cables will arrive and I'd be in a position to explore the area. Perhaps I could contribute to your channel?
Is it possible to crimp pre made siamese BNC cable? I bought some on Ebay and they are a bit too long. Not sure if the copper would be too thin.
Sorry to have to say this, but the procedure is flawed. The CRUCIAL step is the "click" sound when inserting the inner ferrule. It takes a little effort but the difference is another 1.5mm further in. This is the most important step, everything else is fine. Also, do the "finger-nail" test. A man's short finger-nail should be able to touch the inner conductor easily after assembly, the tip should be almost flush with the top annular ring.Lastly, there are 2 styles of inner ferrule, (1) pointed, ie sharp, and (2) bull-nosed, ie rounded. Rounded are better because they present a larger diameter earlier in the insertion process. It would be lovely if you test this and re-do the video as there are so many bad BNC's out there. I work in the aviation and electronics industry and whenever someone complains of poor radio performance this has been the culprit about 90% of the time. Let me know if you check this - ps you have to push the inner connector HARD (and make sure you have a little more slack in the outer braid). Thanks.
love soldering the center pin and heat shrink tube the crimp sleeve with light color so you can write on /label it
Hi..this is off topic I know..but I did not know where to ask you...to check a crystal's resonate freq...can you put a signal into the crystal like from a signal generator, to a O scope and when the generator is moved thru the crystals freq will the signal get higher when it resonates... not sure if you know what I mean, but did not know any other way to ask..
As you correctly point out the most important part of a successful outcome is the proper crimping tool. Unfortunately, connector vendors have no idea what size crimper is required for the connectors they want to sell you. They also will lie about what coax fits their connector. Your video mentions nothing about the proper size crimp dies for any of the many BNC connectors nor do you mention a reliable connector vendor. Certainly not ebay.
what is the correct size compression Ferrell for RG174 co axial cable?
Does anyone know how to go about painting your BNC adaptor (black for example)? Is it safe to just spray it on with a can? I've seen a lot of BNC adaptors black and I want to be able to do this with an adaptor that only comes in chrome.
Soldering is _far_ less reliable than a properly done crimp.
BTW it's easiest to fit the ferrule (and strain relief) before you go anywhere near the cable with a knife. Decent plugs will have a manufacturer's dimensioning guide either with the pack or online. :)
Another useful and well presented video. Thanks Allen.
I bought a set of crimp BNC connectors and the tool, because I was so frustrated with the compression type, which I believe are better. I have since learned to terminate the compression type. I’m still glad I have both types now. I’ve been doing CCTV work for two years, as of this comment.
Good video. Lousy cheap low-grade RG58 with minimal braid cover. RG58 is not an official designation now, It used to be a Mil-Spec (JETDS) in the old days, but is no longer the case, so suppliers are not held to any sort of manufacturing standards.
Sometimes you have to make do with what you have.
Thank you for this. Definitely needed to learn how to do this since I have to replace ends for a home project I have!
Can you please provide a link to purchase the Connectors & PINs?
Hello, great video. I've two questions: -1 for Cb cable Is better of i weld the central pin?
2- how much do you adjust the power of the crimper for the two different crimps?
Thank you
Soldering the center pin is usually better. No need to adjust the crisper when using the appropriate die set
Thank you bro!
µRuler sighting! nice
+eumoria Do you know if you can still get these anywhere?
I like how you put that together and have to remember this when working with the wires I have to put together.
Historia tan chafa casi no se nota que la invento alguien con muy poca imaginación
Hello, can you please let me know the make/model/size of the crimper you used for compressing the sleeve onto the cable end of the crimp. Thanks.
For the center contact, I believe I used a 0.068 hex die in the PWR-Crimp tool - part of this die set:
www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=ct_ds04
Good video
whats the model and make of you crimp tool,I have several but always need improvment
I know you use quality tools thanks Allan
+DENNIS N i used the TRIcrimp tool, fitted with the D-HEX die set:
www.powerwerx.com/crimping-tools/tricrimp-accessory-die-sets.html
is it resist for continuous bending? i mean use it in open field plug/unplug etc, isn't it wear quickly just before this small tube?
Heat shrink tubing helps fit this
Great
Thanks!
my connectors i bought didnt come with the centrr pins am i supposed to pull it out of the center of the main connector? came with the sleeze an main connector, thats it
I'd return them - the center pin geometry must match the what the connector needs. If they didn't give you the center pin, return them as faulty.
When I worked in cable I was taught to get that sleeve shoved into the metal area but I don't know shit about BNC connectors and I'm taking the time to learn about ham radio
Thank you sir for your packaged information