Ryan, great to see you back on the channel, your 80 series videos have been missed. Looking forward to the videos to come. Hopefully, later this winter you can bring back your infamous Tuesday evening chat sessions. Then we will all know the world is finally getting back to normal! 😎
Yes! Good to see you working! One of the bonuses to the 4spd LC/LX transmissions is the presence of the dipstick and the easier fill/check method. Great video.
@@OTRAMM What are your thoughts on a delayed 1st gear engagement when the transmission is cold. It only happens after a hard stop and then I need to feather it into 1st or put the gear selector into 1st manually. The rest of the gears are fine. Throttle Cable?
@@mdoneg I don't actually get in to any auto trans diagnostics at the shop. It's one of my weak spots. Depending on temp though that could be normal. In cold (near freezing) temps the fluid is thicker than when at operating temp and doesn't move through the valve body as quickly. It seems like they may delay the shift on purpose to help warm up the fluid. That's just a guess though.
My general thoughts are leave it alone or drain and fill at most. My 350k trans wasn't real happy about the addition of the turbo so I added an upgraded valve body (video coming soon). Since I had to drain and fill it anyway thought I'd do a video. Hoping to start filling in the gaps on the basic maintenance stuff.
You rock Ryan, thanks for all of your videos. Super wealth of help videos. Any advice on installing that catch can? Maybe you made a video and I missed it. Not a complicated install and maybe not worth your time to make a video. Thanks, Goats.
I'm having an odd symptom in my 80 series. The auto box on cold start doesn't want to move the car. If I idle the car for 30 second or give it a rev, then the auto works nicely. Once it's running it doesn't give any problems. Only at first start or if the car has been sitting for an hour ( gearbox still warm ) I've been told I need to rebuild my gearbox... But I don't think it's as sinister as that. What do you think? Solinoids? Or do these gearboxes have filters?
I really like it. It's a lot more fun to drive. No real cons that I've seen other than needing a better valve body for the trans to hold the extra power. I don't drive it much though.
Care to weigh in on using synthetic vs. traditional ATF for a 100 series? I'm considering doing a few drain and fills on my LX470. I'm tempted to use synthetic but my gut says to use regular old Dex III. Just curious if you had a preference. Thanks!
Great video. I have a quick question. After battery replacement my AT temp light on my dash suddenly was lit. The fluid level is ok. Some other lights on the dash are also now on. Have you ever seen this before?
I haven't seen the AT temp light come on, but I have seen ABS codes in the older Cruisers after new batterys. I'd check the fusible link first to see if any of the wires broke while swapping the battery.
can you do a video on how to remove the diff drain plugs i have hit mine on a rock and it just spins its not leaking any diff oil after a few months last change i just used a vac pump to remove oil from the fill plug and refiled it but i dont like driveing about with the drain plug spinning like it is am sure its the threads that are stuffed it spins both directions doesnt get lose or tight i have a thread chaser with new plug and a over sized plug and tap ready to fix but i cant get the old drain plug out
If it's spinning and doesn't tighten or loosen you've stripped the threads out of the center of the plug. The plug still has good threads on the inside holding it in. There's no easy way to fix that. It'll either have to be drilled out or pried out. Sometimes if you can wedge something behind the head of the plug to pull outward you can pry and turn at the same time and get the inside threads to catch and thread out. It's a long shot though.
@@OTRAMM thanks mate pretty much what i thort stripped threads ordered a needle nosed pliers vice grip hopefully that gets it out if it doesnt work looks like got to pull the third out and push down with something also love ya vids keep up the good work
To do this process, how much Tran fluid would I need to buy. I’m guessing a gallon then adding more from another quart container or is it more than that?
Hi Ryan! I think I've asked you this in person before, but given the relevant video here, can you speak to high mileage (250k+ miles, never changed on record) ATF fluid changes for 80's that exhibit zero transmission issues, but whose owners want new fluid to match the rest of the driveline's fresh fluid? Would this be the method to do so "safely?" Drive a few hundred miles and do this same method again a couple of times vs. taking it to a shop and hooking it up to the machines that blow out the whole system and end up causing issues?
I'm not sure that there is a recommended time from Toyota. I'd have to try and dig through the owners manual. We don't change them often. It's usually when we've got to drain the fluid for something else. If we're doing a fluids check and the trans fluid looks discolored we'll recommend a drain and fill.
Great video is it worth getting it flushed from the shop and getting them to check over it? Or are you best just doing it yourself? Just bought my 80 and trans seems fine.
Ryan, great to see you back on the channel, your 80 series videos have been missed. Looking forward to the videos to come. Hopefully, later this winter you can bring back your infamous Tuesday evening chat sessions. Then we will all know the world is finally getting back to normal! 😎
Yes! Good to see you working! One of the bonuses to the 4spd LC/LX transmissions is the presence of the dipstick and the easier fill/check method. Great video.
glad to see you back, I own a 80 series and find your vids helpful.
Thank you for all the high quality videos.
Hooray you're back and just when my 80 is due for the fluid change! Pura Vida from Costa Rica
Thank you Ryan, great to have you back on TH-cam.
Woohoo, he's back ! Miss your live streams Ryan.
Weeeee
Happy to have you back!
Good to see your video again
Good to see you back!
Very helpful like all of your videos. Thank you for posting. I will need to do this soon as well.
Thank you. Glad you are back.
More to come!
Will this help with smoother shifting or not really? I don't have a record of when the Trans. fluid was last changed on my 97' LX450.
You shouldn't really notice much difference in shifting with a fluid change.
@@OTRAMM What are your thoughts on a delayed 1st gear engagement when the transmission is cold. It only happens after a hard stop and then I need to feather it into 1st or put the gear selector into 1st manually. The rest of the gears are fine. Throttle Cable?
@@mdoneg I don't actually get in to any auto trans diagnostics at the shop. It's one of my weak spots. Depending on temp though that could be normal. In cold (near freezing) temps the fluid is thicker than when at operating temp and doesn't move through the valve body as quickly. It seems like they may delay the shift on purpose to help warm up the fluid. That's just a guess though.
Another great video. Thanks for taking the time
He's back!!!!! I always heard just leave the auto transmisson alone!!! Scary!! ;-)
My general thoughts are leave it alone or drain and fill at most. My 350k trans wasn't real happy about the addition of the turbo so I added an upgraded valve body (video coming soon). Since I had to drain and fill it anyway thought I'd do a video. Hoping to start filling in the gaps on the basic maintenance stuff.
@@OTRAMM Nice to see you back here. Keep it up. Would you recommend a catch can on a non-turbo 80? How's it working for you?
I don't see much of a reason for one on a non turbo. I've only had it on mine for maybe 50 miles so it's a bit soon to tell.
@@OTRAMM Cool....thanks. Again, nice to see you back here.
You rock Ryan, thanks for all of your videos. Super wealth of help videos. Any advice on installing that catch can? Maybe you made a video and I missed it. Not a complicated install and maybe not worth your time to make a video. Thanks, Goats.
I don't have a video on it. Mine's just plumbed in the PCV hose.
I'm having an odd symptom in my 80 series. The auto box on cold start doesn't want to move the car. If I idle the car for 30 second or give it a rev, then the auto works nicely. Once it's running it doesn't give any problems. Only at first start or if the car has been sitting for an hour ( gearbox still warm ) I've been told I need to rebuild my gearbox... But I don't think it's as sinister as that. What do you think? Solinoids? Or do these gearboxes have filters?
I don't really get in to the automatics. In my very limited experience sounds like low fluid.
Good morning. How are you liking your turbo. Any pros and cons that you can share... thank you for sharing.
I really like it. It's a lot more fun to drive. No real cons that I've seen other than needing a better valve body for the trans to hold the extra power. I don't drive it much though.
@@OTRAMM Thank you
Care to weigh in on using synthetic vs. traditional ATF for a 100 series? I'm considering doing a few drain and fills on my LX470. I'm tempted to use synthetic but my gut says to use regular old Dex III. Just curious if you had a preference. Thanks!
Depends on the year. The early ones we use just regular dex. The newer ones only get factory WS.
@@OTRAMM Thanks, I'll proceed with good old fashioned dex III as planned!
Does this same procedure apply to the FJ62?
Happy Easter! Love the videos.
Yep, pretty much the same.
Thanks Ryan!
Great video. I have a quick question. After battery replacement my AT temp light on my dash suddenly was lit. The fluid level is ok. Some other lights on the dash are also now on. Have you ever seen this before?
I haven't seen the AT temp light come on, but I have seen ABS codes in the older Cruisers after new batterys. I'd check the fusible link first to see if any of the wires broke while swapping the battery.
can you do a video on how to remove the diff drain plugs i have hit mine on a rock and it just spins its not leaking any diff oil after a few months last change i just used a vac pump to remove oil from the fill plug and refiled it but i dont like driveing about with the drain plug spinning like it is am sure its the threads that are stuffed it spins both directions doesnt get lose or tight i have a thread chaser with new plug and a over sized plug and tap ready to fix but i cant get the old drain plug out
If it's spinning and doesn't tighten or loosen you've stripped the threads out of the center of the plug. The plug still has good threads on the inside holding it in. There's no easy way to fix that. It'll either have to be drilled out or pried out. Sometimes if you can wedge something behind the head of the plug to pull outward you can pry and turn at the same time and get the inside threads to catch and thread out. It's a long shot though.
@@OTRAMM thanks mate pretty much what i thort stripped threads ordered a needle nosed pliers vice grip hopefully that gets it out if it doesnt work looks like got to pull the third out and push down with something also love ya vids keep up the good work
To do this process, how much Tran fluid would I need to buy. I’m guessing a gallon then adding more from another quart container or is it more than that?
We start with a gallon and go from there. I want to say it's usually around 6 or so quarts.
Hi Ryan! I think I've asked you this in person before, but given the relevant video here, can you speak to high mileage (250k+ miles, never changed on record) ATF fluid changes for 80's that exhibit zero transmission issues, but whose owners want new fluid to match the rest of the driveline's fresh fluid? Would this be the method to do so "safely?"
Drive a few hundred miles and do this same method again a couple of times vs. taking it to a shop and hooking it up to the machines that blow out the whole system and end up causing issues?
Yep, we just drain and fill. I haven't seen any manufacturers that recommend flushing with equipment.
Will you be making more stainless steel exhaust systems. Particularly for a 94 LC?
Nope, we've stopped making exhaust. We never did one for the 93-94 trucks.
i doubt my 270k mi has had a transmission fluid change since I got it 20 years ago. is it a bad idea to replace the fluid at this point?
If its dark don't change it, red chsnge
What catch can are you using?
It's a mishimoto.
Great to see you back. Are you taking requests for videos? Valve stem seals with head kept on?
There is no way I would ever try to do 80 stem seals with the head on. They're hard enough with the head on a stand.
Is the transfer case separate? Could you do a quick video on that if it is?
T-case is a different fluid. I don't have a video on it. It's super easy though.
How often do you suggest changing this fluid?
I'm not sure that there is a recommended time from Toyota. I'd have to try and dig through the owners manual. We don't change them often. It's usually when we've got to drain the fluid for something else. If we're doing a fluids check and the trans fluid looks discolored we'll recommend a drain and fill.
Great video is it worth getting it flushed from the shop and getting them to check over it? Or are you best just doing it yourself? Just bought my 80 and trans seems fine.
Flushing can cause problems. If the fluid is still red and doesn't smell burnt we usually leave it alone. Drain and fill seems safe though.
@@OTRAMM this answered the question I just asked. drain and fill it is
OTRAMMM!!!!!!! :)
You never mention what type of fluid
That's on purpose since I wasn't using e recommended fluid. It's something I'm experimenting with. By spec it should be Dexron 3.
Good to see you back!