Complete JAWS pipe install on the 2024 Ski-doo XRS Competition Turbo! The Y-pipe springs are crazy!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ธ.ค. 2023
- Here it is, the complete install process for the JAWS pipe on the new 2024 Ski-doo XRS Competition turbo! Everything is pretty simple and relatively straight forward, but man are Ski-doo's new y-pipe springs crazy strong.
I made some small modifications to the kit/install process to please my OCD and clean things up a bit. Hopefully this video helps some people get this install done headache free!
JAWS pipe link: jawsperformance.com/product/2... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Nice Job
Hopefully Jaws watches and updates the kit
Nice job! ☃️👍👍
The rubber seal has been on the 850's for several years now. Meant to burn out in the first bit of running, there only to keep the fogging oil from dripping out in the belly pan and onto the floor before the grafoil seal seats.
Really enjoying your videos!! 👍🏼 Great Job!!
Thank you! The good words are keeping me going!
I believe all these sleds come with that rubber ring. Typically (happened to me with my new 850 as well), the ring is in there to keep the heavily oiled engine from leaking all over the place. The ring burns off on the first couple of rides and any excess oil leaks out. You'll see a lot of folks complaining about their brand new sled leaking oil and or some sort of rubber ring that is in the bottom of the engine (which you noted a normal). But its just this process happening, the ring is sacrificial.
That's my first time ever seeing the rubber ring in there, but I also haven't pulled the pipe/y-pipe on a sub 5 mile machine before haha. It's surprising with the rubber ring, AND these beefy boy springs there's still some oil that gets by
This is correct. When I did my can install mine had melted out and fell to the belly pan
It's wild, right after this post and another on Dootalk, I looked over a 200 mile Expedition 850 and sure enough, found half a burnt rubber ring sitting on the Y-pipe! No wonder the Doo's have a such strong smells during the first few rides
My favorite for pain in the ass pipe springs is a 3’ piece of 550 paracord !
I thought about doing something similar to pull, but I really think you'd need a winch/pulley system haha...they're crazy strong!
@@MunsonMotorsports so springs really do suck but it’s nice to angle them easily to reattach and get weird angles on some! It definitely makes it easier to get your whole body into some of the springs. Lol
Wht I do for my springs is I take a long gauge wire and loop it and then make a handle and wrap the wire around the screwdriver/handle and use the long wire to pull and stretch ur springs and pop em in place and then undo the handle and pull the wire threw
Cant wait to ride in a week an a half.
Snap-On has square sockets for taps that work great.
I've got a couple but unfortunately not one to fit that tap haha. That's always how it goes!
Those springs are a nightmare. I had mine off 2 weeks ago. Had to call my brother that benches 400 to come and put the last 1 on for me. Took him all of 2 minutes to get it on lol
Well that certainly makes me feel a little better that it's not just me haha, but man they're crazy strong little units!
A good spring tool and vice grips makes it a lot better but yeah they are not easy for sure lol..
The eyehole spring tabs Jaws uses leave a lot to be desired. The factory style spring tabs are much easier on wear of the spring hook where it contacts the metal. 2-stroke have a lot of harmonic vibration and that eats through those spring hooks until they snap.
Two stoned birds 😂 that bolt also looks good I might have done a stainless set screw hex inset as other option.
For the price of this kit I wouldn't be totally happy, between the clear garbage tubing and the exhaust shield interference issue. Jaws could easily solve those things
I totally hear ya, I'm just the installer. I'm here to try and help provide insight and some tips to make fellow riders mods and seasons go better! I hope nothing I'm sharing comes across negative, I'm just super picky and I know there are others like me out there. Whether the the things I ran into will bother the end user is up for them to decide.
@@MunsonMotorsports appreciate the install video and all your feedback. Well done
First year sled and first year parts. Their pipe kits 5 years ago where worse quality then they are now. Don’t forget they are the only pipe that is giving you the heatshield.. which is huge vs a Bikeman or dynoport or others where the under hood temp is insane. Even ceramic coating doesn’t help vs insulation and the shield.
Very nice instruct / professional install video! Looks like a pain in the ass for your average garage sled head?
Thank you! I feel most people would be able to get the job done, you need a decent set of tools and a damn good spring puller...but aside from the ypipe to pipe springs being a bear the rest isn't all thaaattt bad
What’s up with the sensor relocation? More power or ?
The short of it is that the pipe utilizes or is making increased pipe pressure that I'm assuming is higher than what the ECU wants to see. So to prevent the ECU from entering a major correction factor, or a limp mode even, the sensor pressure source is relocated to the airbox/intake manifold so it still sees/gets a pressure reading, but it is one that is within the accepted window the ECU is looking to see.
Does vermont bust your chops with aftermarket exhaust on the vast trails?
They have the same laws as most other states, except their big check now is to simply look for the SSCC stamp. If you don't have that you're hosed! I've seen some wardens not bother exhaust, and seen some be all over it, never know how it's gonna go.
The pipe is identical to stock. No way to tell. As long as you run stock silencer you will pass any tests and visual tests.
I thought I had one also , but was told snap on doesn't make a 6mm short ball end socket like that, weird cause I thought I had one, my guy says no
It's like the BearenstEIn vs BearenstAIn bears thing...the universe changed and the 6mm ball end doesn't exist anymore 🤣
Any idea why they ask you to relocate the pressure sensor port when they still weld a bung in the pipe for it?
The short of it is that the pipe utilizes or is making increased pipe pressure that I'm assuming is higher than what the ECU wants to see. So to prevent the ECU from entering a major correction factor, or a limp mode even, the sensor pressure source is relocated to the airbox/intake manifold so it still sees/gets a pressure reading, but it is one that is within the accepted window the ECU is looking to see.
It is tricking the computer to therefore work with this pipe and actually add more power in a cheaty way lol.. very sneaky by jaws. But hey if it works more power to them lol
just dont fuck with it if its not broken, they cant support their hp claims
Soooooo with this not needing a tune, can anyone explain how this works tune wise ? Is it just relying on correction factors in the ecu therefore having small lean/fat and miss timed moments ?
The new ECU has a lot of sensors, they're collecting/utilizing a lot of data so I'm sure the corrections and safeties are pretty strong and will keep EGT's and fuel trims where they *should* be..or at least close to it. Clearly they're utilizing increased pipe pressure to supercharge (obviously it's a turbo sled, but the action of the tuned pipe pulses and how it forces the air into the cylinder is referred to as supercharging) the cylinder more, which I'm assuming is why the pipe pressure sensor relocation is a necessity. I'm also assuming, the '24 ECU is a little more sensitive/picky about pipe pressure compared to the earlier mountain counterparts.
Curious to hear how it performs for ya, I'm in the mountains and already jelly of your water mether
@@zp9898 I'm curious to see how the ICE system works with increased boost pressure. It may be why the mountain sleds don't have it as they're running higher boost at elevation. It doesn't seem like the system has any way to increase the spray pressure into the reed assembly, so it's probably only going to remain efficient at lower boost levels. IE, lets just say the system can produce a spray pressure of 8psi at the injection site, if there's 3psi of boost pressure in the manifold, the spray pressure is now only 5psi. If you increase boost to 8psi, the boost pressure will negate the system spray pressure of 8psi and you'll only have a little trickle if any making it's way into the system. This is why proper turbo fueling systems have rising rate fuel pressure regulators referenced off boost pressure; so the injector pressure can maintain the same ratio as boost pressure increases. The ICE system pressure may be a good bit higher, but the theory is still the same, efficiency will be lost if the ICE system pressure doesn't increase with boost pressure once these things start getting turned up.
@MunsonMotorsports depending how it is injected yes, my background is with the import car crowd, and when we use a methonal injection kit we usually tend to spray into the throttle body or right before it in a charge pipe. Our pumps aren't rising rate, but we did have different sized jets. The idea was to fog the charge air, not necessarily inject into the combustion chamber, as the whole thing works off the evaporative theory. If they are using established pumps, you should have no issues between 3 and 8 psi. With cars, even when using it as an octane boost, the jet sizes covered a large swath of boost like - 10-15psi, and had no problems with mixture until like 35-40psi of boost, but then again our pumps are/ were like 220 psi.
@@zp9898 100% correct. My worry comes from the fact that the pump looks like a windshield washer pump and there's already been a report of a nipple/port breaking off the reed cage assembly. The system has one feed line that Tees into both reed cages from the middle with no real jet, (unless there's an orifice/pill inside the tee fitting) the system is a great idea and is obviously a proven method, I'm just slightly worried about the longevity and overall efficiency of it in this application to be honest.
What’s jaws saying for hp?
17hp over stock on the '24 comp turbos!
@@MunsonMotorsports More probable: loss of 17hp and gain of 17db of noise. lol.
@@mik_maccc this is dyno proven.. you can watch their vid and livestreams on how they test and tune. This isn’t Bikeman garbage lol..
It’s hard to believe Doo engineering left that much meat on the bone?
@@timtorkelson7201 they don’t care about fast or running perfect anymore.. They make pretty cool Stuff that is kinda fast and that can PASS EMISSIONS.. lol.. tons of room in everything to make it run better and faster. Especially supercharged or turbo’s vehicles/power sports.
anyone else notice jaws dyno sheet doesnt have any numbers on it? lol
The jaws pipes sound terrible on these sleds mbrp is way better quality sound especially with a full pipe I feel 2.5 “ is great for the jaws rowdy and 3” mbrp all the way I run the jaws on my khaos
How come you didn’t put any high temp copper around the donut between y-pipe and pipe? Like others have said that rubber is there to catch some of the extra oil for break in leaking by.
What washers are those? Amazon link or what are they called /what size are they ? Gonna be doing this pipe on new sled soon and old sled had one loosen up so maybe I’ll do this too
If you search "M8 Nord lock" on amazon you'll have a pile to choose from, I order mine in bulk from McMaster-Carr. You should be able to get them at a local Fastenal as well!