4th Gen 4Runner Battery Terminal Change
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ต.ค. 2020
- Today, I change the positive battery terminal/connector. Nuff said.
90982-05054 : www.amazon.com/dp/B088S8PQ59/...
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Hi - Just came across this. We are EDS Parts. Thanks for your business, doing this and sharing with everyone. We appreciate it. These parts are OEM Original - Toyota does not make them - we buy them direct from the supplier Toyota uses in their production vehicles. It's the exact same part... Thanks again!
In the product description it says 18mm nut. Is that a typo?
Just ordered it for my 2006 4Runner with 273k miles.
I just ordered mine. Glad I came across this.
To help avoid an accidental grounding (with your wrench for instance) you might want to disconnect the negative terminal first and then when reassembling reconnect the negative terminal last.
I specifically looked for this advise while looking at this video
Nice work. I would have cleaned the cable end connectors as well. The positive terminal is crazy pricey at the dealership! Thanks!
FINALLY you replace that cursed terminal! I was telling you to do that shit for SEVERAL MONTHS!
I was about to pay 400 bucks for that! Thank you! I thought I had to replace that entire cable! Lol! Thank you so Much!
Joseph Stone $400?! That's outrageous!!
@@airsoftmechanic After watching your video, I paid 7.19 for the connector thingy and put it on myself! Can started...it wasn't a Toyota part, but hey...I'm getting around. Thank you so much!
@@1970jstone Woohoo!! Glad this video helped you save money, and kept you moving forward!
Wonderful video, perfect for the typical Shade Tree Mechanic.
A couple of comments about the 12.2 volts you showed near the end. A new, fully charged automotive battery should be slightly higher, maybe 12.3 to 12.7 volts.
But more importantly, lets assume that the battery voltage was 12.2 volts. If there was some resistance in the connection, since the current draw was so low when you checked the voltage, the voltage drop would me minimal. What counts in this case for voltage is the voltage at the starter while drawing 40 to 80 amps. That is when the adverse effect of the corrosion is significant.
You should use sand paper on those 2 flat plates that goes on + terminal to remove any corosion , and u should remove - then + terminals and put it in reverse order when geting it back on the battery.
I just did the same repair also using EDS parts from Amazon. My corrosion was so bad that the old terminal broke and the nut holding the cables had welded itself through corrosion that I had to hacksaw it off. A 10 min job ended up taking many hours. Also used felt pads and battery grease.
Great video!! Can you make one replacing the negative terminal?
How can I get that volt meter thing you have inside the car? That’s cool
I wish that 12 mm nut came off that easily on my '98 4Runner. It won't budge and there's no rust on it at all!
Great video, I would add that you may want to be a little less liberal pouring the soda solution onto the post…. If there is any kinda vent or cap on the battery the solution may find it’s way into the cells and significantly degrade or simply destroy the batteries ability to maintain charge
This is good to know. I have the same year but the Sport Ed. How’s the frame on your vehicle? At this moment I’m having a new frame put on mine because it rusted out. It only has 81,000 miles on it.
Greg Taylor My frame is looking good. In Texas we don’t really have rust issues
@@airsoftmechanic 👍
Yeah 160k on my 04 v8 4Runner sport ed zero rust same with my 01 tacoma 200k almost no rust. Also my 4Runner has several issues that are still original on my taco including leaking rack inner tie rods steering shaft valve covers. .Only a Couple years apart but build quality is not the same still solid vehicle though
Thank you for 5:00.
Thanks a lot! You are an angel.
How do you change the Negative one that one is different
I thinking about supercharging or even turbocharging my 4runner which one you would chose
Ezekiel luera Yes
My bolt was rusted and the head snapped off had to take it to a shop to replace the terminal only bout 80 dollars.
I have the same corroded terminal issue, truck will click once and then all accessories will die. Is this the terminal, a short or something in the cable, or something even more potentially expensive? I read to try this first
Lobo Hog Try changing out the terminal/connector first. If your engine starts with no problem, then you’re good! If not, you may have bigger problems
@@airsoftmechanic yup, it was just the terminal. $22 for an OEM replacement because the $9 generic didn’t work.
I’m trying to get the battery terminals out on my 2000 Camry but the 12mm nut got stuck. Is there anyway easy way to get the 12mm nut out?
JerzeyPrince23 You’ll need to break that 12mm nut off with a breaker bar. Or if all fails, remove the entire terminal since the replacement will come with a new nut
Spray some nut loosener on there and let it soak for a while....I had the same problem and I finally got if off
Contact with acid causes that. Lube up the terminal with something like Vaseline or Silicone grease.
Yea cleaning it & then applying the vaseline problem solved
Did you even watch the video? That's literally what hr did...
How is the positive terminal holding so far ?
Angel Guzman Still holding up to this day!
Might get another battery, silverado has space for another one 👀
KenntTrill ooooooo
Hi would it effect ny car if I get a different kind of terminals?
megadethGUY M No, I don’t think it should. Though you should always go with a direct replacement so it’s guaranteed to work
Come do mines 😩😩
If you bought it directly from China for 50 cents (plus postage), it is legit OEM 😂👍