FWF, Rudder, Servos, Cables, BOMBS, and MISSILES!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ย. 2023
- I've been working on the FWF package, the rudder, cables, servos, and my Master Arm panel!
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Masterpiece! Amazing work.
"Worried how I will get this finished" its hardly your first rodeo is it? Your workmanship, and attention to detail are second to none :-)
It’s looking great, Mark. Eventually, I’ll get caught up to where you are. Fox3😂
Prop looks Awesome
I love the paint scheme you used.
You are doing a great job!
Instead of studs for the carburetor box, use stainless Allen grub screws, that way you can tighten the nuts better.
Thanks for sharing. Very excited to see how your plane turns out!
On my Comanche, the airbox is attached to the carb with studs.
MISSLES..BOMBS..wow..love it...
Yes...I had a feeling I saw videos up to date..went back watched a few over..looking forward to progress on your superduty
Great video! Your build looks great! I share in your frustration on what’s next/what works on my SD build. I’ve been plenty motivated since the Zenith Homecoming, but haven’t realized much visual progress as much as I anticipated! Not making excuses… it’s just part of the building adventure!
use a long stud or bolt on the air box, put a standoff between the carb flange and outside airbox. just drill through airbox under the carb flange. the standoff keeps the airbox from colapsing on the carb flange steel part that you are going to powder coat. use blue locktite on the mounting bolts.
Best idea yet, IMO
And once the box is built, how exactly would you align the standoffs when you can't get inside the box. Also please explain how you'd magically get the standoffs to not interfere with the carb heat flange?? It's a great idea but just would not work in the real world.
Just a bit of a ‘heads up’ : A flight controls cable requires a minimum amount of contact (surface area) with a flight controls pulley (groove) in order for the pulley to rotate freely, as opposed to the cable slipping relative to the pulley, as the former moves back and forth; slippage causes wear over time.
The minimum contact is typically referred to as the minimum “cable wrap angle” and it perhaps 🤔 might be specified for types of cable and pulley material combinations in either an FAA manual or an FAA circular (sorry I haven’t references) or you calculate it given (1) the cable tension, (2) the pulley groove diameter, (3) the cable diameter, (4) the coefficient of friction for the cable and pulley material combination, (5) the pulley bearing’s static friction.
You should also be able to find various OEM content on the net - which specifies how to calculate the minimum cable wrap angle for a given type of pulley / cable combination.
Basically you want to avoid slippage 👍
Ignore my comments mate, you are fantastic at what you do and the quality of your work is more than sufficient to ensure that you will not run it to the type of problems some folks do.
My comments are really aimed at persons following along who do not have as much experience building aircraft as you do nor seek to achieve the level of detail and accuracy which you put into your work.
Really appreciate the time and effort you put in to preparing, editing and sharing your content with us all 👍👍
Thanks for doing so 🙏
First! Awesome Mark!
On mounting the carburetor air box most engines have a little stud that goes into the threaded portion of the Carb. Then a plain washer and all metal lock nut are used
Thanks, I'll have to see if I can order those studs from Lycoming.
They should have them. I don’t remember the part number though.
Ive watch every episode. Some twice..from what Ive seen zenith does an excellent job making parts that fit exact. Holes line up perfect and such...i am looking at the zenith 650 quick build..question..should I expect the same quality as ur super duty appears to be...thanks..
I’ve run into small studs on similar air boxes. It’s still a huge pain to get nuts in there. I don’t like that design. I would make a cover/access plate that you can remove and easily get tools to remove.
Yes and I see no reason why all of that airbox thing could not be simplified and fabricated from 1/8" 6061. Then with use of an access/cover plate would keep weight to a minimum.
Where you drinking before posting this 😂
Did you figure out the carburetor box mounting issue? If not, would it be an option to make holes on the plate big enough to pass bolts through and the hex socket to tighten them?
Going full Bazooka Charlie, I see.
If you're building a FAC plane, you would use Willy Pete (White Phosphorous) marker rockets, not HE rockets.
Wouldn't it perhaps be possible to insert the bolt from the top of the airbox and the carburettor and the nut from the bottom?
My wife and I are building a normal 701 and only some parts are pre-drilled to A3.
But your videos are a great incentive and you have lots of good tips!
Since the holes are threaded the bolts need to go bottom up. If you can see the back two holes (or at least where they would be on the carb) there's no way to even put a bolt in from the top. I'll have to contact Lycoming and see if they have studs.
Hopefully Lycoming can help you and there is an easy solution, thank you for your answer.@@KitplaneEnthusiast