Hey, Great info. I'm in the process of installing a complete Dynon Panel and replacing all my hoses with Aircraft Specialty right now. Good tips in here for sure. Thanks
Your work is outstanding. The attention to detail, and thought you've applied really please my inner C.D.O. (same as O.C.D. but the letters are in alphabetical order as they should be).
I'm glad you're making such great progress with your Super Duty again. 👍 It's a shame that you have to uninstall your engine again in order to optimally adjust the air baffles. Labeling your different cables with one “male” connector and the other with “female” connectors is a very good idea and we will adopt it. I find it admirable how much electronics you incorporate into your SD! You can't run the cable from the wing for the fuel gauge in the Dynon along the front cage, I've seen in some videos that cables were laid there and if you use a black one it's hardly noticeable.
Looks great. Pulling wire into impossible locations is what I mainly do at my job. Where there's a will, there's a way. I save different sizes of fiber optic cable strain members which are made from fiber glass to use as fish tools.
Molex connectors are a great, low-cost option for nonhostile environments, but not the best for the firewall or exterior areas. You may wish to consider replacing those with an automotive style sealed connector. Deutsch is a good choice as they are more compact, but are somewhat expensive. I still use the older Delphi Weatherpack connectors mainly because I own the expensive crimp tool that I bought many years ago. I’d have to buy a new tool for Deutsch which is the only reason I don’t use Deutsch.
Usually the crinkling is from spraying the paint too thick in low humidity where the outer layer dries too quickly and then shrinks and the paint underneath then dries. Thinner coats and using a slower reducer might help.
Just loving the video. New episode. Right on..so i know these MISSLES are fake and d ont weigh much but. Are there critical factors to consider..weight balance. Location etc..all good to fly plane safe?..thanks...Dave from Canada.
Is there a hole or opening at the other end of any of those channels? Or could you make one? I've had luck using a strong shop vac to draw some fishing line through a channel; then use the fishing line to pull a stronger line or the wire afterword. Looking great!
Mount all your magic boxes first, and then just try to figure out an orderly way to route the wires. I'm my experience, no matter how neat I try to make it, by the time it's done it looks like spaghetti!
Having your Volts run into the Dynon will give you the Audio warning if the Volts start dropping. I had this happen when the connector on my R/R burnt and the Stator was not charging the battery.
Curious as to why you added an unprotected molex connector 3 inches away from the sealed weatherpack connector on the pressure sensors on the front of the firewall. Wouldn't you want everything front of the firewall to be IP67/68 rated?
@@KitplaneEnthusiast I was just thinking in terms of encountering weather and having moisture present in that area of the aircraft. I would actually hope internal wiring on a submarine would have a less chance of exposure to unintended water than under the cowl of an IFR capable aircraft.
Are you sure there is something wrong with the pitot heat indicator? When the pitot heat is 'on' the light illuminates - indicating it is on. The word "OFF' appears to let you know to touch that to turn it off. After which the light goes out. So the light tells you what the status is and the words tell you how to turn it off. (just sayin)
I often see you using your deburring tool. I can find no comparable tool on Home Depot, Lowes, Amazon, etc. Where can I purchase a tool similar to your? thx
If the lightweight starter solenoid could be repositioned to approximately 0600 by rotating the center case with the retainer bolts loosened would the electrical brushes and permanent magnets rotate around happily and if so, would the position of the electrical connectors then be in a satisfactory position. The planetary gear set should follow suit nicely too. 🖐️👶🚬
That's a seriously awesome build!
Hey, Great info. I'm in the process of installing a complete Dynon Panel and replacing all my hoses with Aircraft Specialty right now. Good tips in here for sure. Thanks
Aircraft Specialty is amazing. Their hoses and brake lines are a must have.
@@wairworthy Gotta love high quality hose 🙃
@@CompleteWalkaroundthe only way I like my hose.
Your work is outstanding. The attention to detail, and thought you've applied really please my inner C.D.O. (same as O.C.D. but the letters are in alphabetical order as they should be).
I always enjoy your videos - well produced with great sound. That takes effort above and beyond doing your build. Thanks.
I'm glad you're making such great progress with your Super Duty again. 👍
It's a shame that you have to uninstall your engine again in order to optimally adjust the air baffles.
Labeling your different cables with one “male” connector and the other with “female” connectors is a very good idea and we will adopt it.
I find it admirable how much electronics you incorporate into your SD!
You can't run the cable from the wing for the fuel gauge in the Dynon along the front cage, I've seen in some videos that cables were laid there and if you use a black one it's hardly noticeable.
What an interesting update. Lots of progress. You’ll remember to run that fuel level wire on your Next build 😎
You are doing a great build, love it.
Looks great. Pulling wire into impossible locations is what I mainly do at my job. Where there's a will, there's a way. I save different sizes of fiber optic cable strain members which are made from fiber glass to use as fish tools.
Molex connectors are a great, low-cost option for nonhostile environments, but not the best for the firewall or exterior areas. You may wish to consider replacing those with an automotive style sealed connector. Deutsch is a good choice as they are more compact, but are somewhat expensive. I still use the older Delphi Weatherpack connectors mainly because I own the expensive crimp tool that I bought many years ago. I’d have to buy a new tool for Deutsch which is the only reason I don’t use Deutsch.
You Need to get yourself an Olive drab flight suit to match the plane!
Get a "Fibreglass" electrical snake, at Home Depot or Lowes and feed it up the post to capture the wire and bring it down.
Oh that’s a good idea! Thanks!!
Usually the crinkling is from spraying the paint too thick in low humidity where the outer layer dries too quickly and then shrinks and the paint underneath then dries. Thinner coats and using a slower reducer might help.
Just loving the video. New episode. Right on..so i know these MISSLES are fake and d ont weigh much but. Are there critical factors to consider..weight balance. Location etc..all good to fly plane safe?..thanks...Dave from Canada.
Is there a hole or opening at the other end of any of those channels? Or could you make one? I've had luck using a strong shop vac to draw some fishing line through a channel; then use the fishing line to pull a stronger line or the wire afterword.
Looking great!
Beautiful plane! Any tips on building your wire harnesses? Just now starting.
Mount all your magic boxes first, and then just try to figure out an orderly way to route the wires. I'm my experience, no matter how neat I try to make it, by the time it's done it looks like spaghetti!
Having your Volts run into the Dynon will give you the Audio warning if the Volts start dropping. I had this happen when the connector on my R/R burnt and the Stator was not charging the battery.
Are you going to display your airplane at Oshkosh ?
Curious as to why you added an unprotected molex connector 3 inches away from the sealed weatherpack connector on the pressure sensors on the front of the firewall. Wouldn't you want everything front of the firewall to be IP67/68 rated?
If I was building a boat or a submarine, I'd use sealed connectors.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast I was just thinking in terms of encountering weather and having moisture present in that area of the aircraft. I would actually hope internal wiring on a submarine would have a less chance of exposure to unintended water than under the cowl of an IFR capable aircraft.
Hey Mark, where did you get those fuse holders? I've been searching but haven't come up with anything like those.
Here's a link to the fuse holders: amzn.to/41ekDgg
Thanks. I'll be installing the Amp shunt so I was looking into some type of fuse holder. These will work great!
Are you sure there is something wrong with the pitot heat indicator? When the pitot heat is 'on' the light illuminates - indicating it is on. The word "OFF' appears to let you know to touch that to turn it off. After which the light goes out. So the light tells you what the status is and the words tell you how to turn it off. (just sayin)
I often see you using your deburring tool. I can find no comparable tool on Home Depot, Lowes, Amazon, etc. Where can I purchase a tool similar to your? thx
www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/speeddeb.php?clickkey=23781
What if u used an existing wire to fish new wire through..
How many hours are you into the build at this point?
I have no idea. I find it pointless to log hours.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast other than to give someone a ballpark time frame of a build I get it.
If the lightweight starter solenoid could be repositioned to approximately 0600 by rotating the center case with the retainer bolts loosened would the electrical brushes and permanent magnets rotate around happily and if so, would the position of the electrical connectors then be in a satisfactory position. The planetary gear set should follow suit nicely too. 🖐️👶🚬
It’s crinkly because you mixing paint types, enamel and lacquer are not compatible with each other.
That might be true. Neither the primer nor the paint indicate if it's lacquer or enamel.