This has been a life saver for me. Great work! I’ve currently half way through the project and have just put in the new filter housing/ oil cooler. I did two things differently…. 1. I followed the advice of another commenter and drilled a hole in my battery compartment. 2. I found that you don’t need to go under the car or fully remove the ac compressor. There are three torx bolts holding it which can be accessed from above. Remove the bottom two (front and rear of ac compressor) then partly unbolt the top. You only need about 3-4mm to create enough space to withdraw the oil filter housing.
Each of your OM651 videos have been absolute gems for me! I've owned a 2011 manual CDI250 Estate from new, which now has 241,000 miles, but still pulls like a train and returns 50+mpg on a run, thanks to 'DIY' maintenance (performed well in advance of any dash service reminders) and YOUR highly valued TH-cam guidance. So far I've replaced a cracked intake manifold, after watching your experience with the same model (blessing your advice to temporarily remove the battery and firewall - I personally couldn't have done that job, without this insight), I've replaced badly sealing intercooler pipes, a faulty throttle body and also a leaking fuel filter heater housing. I've lost count of how many DPF differential pressure sensors I've replaced, they usually last about 12m , Although, the current one seems to be lasting longer, after being wrapped in foil, in an attempt to dissipate the surrounding heat issues. However, an undefined excessive engine oil leak has been my nemesis, I've replaced the rocker cover gasket, injector seals and the oil and water 'O' rings (Mercedes Kit) on the oil cooler, none of which have solved the issue. Mistakenly, I then concluded that the oil must be coming from the sump pan and didn't fancy that challenge, choosing to ignore all the evident oil contamination from well above this level and just making sure it gets a good clean before its MOTs. Now, after your latest video, I realise I need to revisit this, replacing the complete oil cooler unit, with an updated version. At the moment, I also appear to be loosing significant amounts of anti-freeze, but the radiator, water pump, fuel heater and cabin heater all appear to be bone dry and the engine oil is clear, so I've been at a complete loss to explain this. I'm now wondering if this could also be related to the oil cooler unit, leaking anti-freeze from a split cooler unit, on this occasion leaking to the outside, as well as oil leak from the seal not included in the kit. You've given me new direction and renewed hope, I was on the point of firing the parts canon for the anti-freeze leak, changing the radiator, as the only original item not recently changed. I thank you for your wisdom. Cheers!
If you say could be leaking internally but oil is ok then where does the coolant goes ? Mine Same engine coolant does have the very light oil feel to it dont know mate 😊
The best way I found to reinstall the egr cooler is to start with the lower middle bolt, use the extension same as you have done , insert the bolt and extension in the lower middle hole and position the cooler in place lining up the other bolt holes keeping pressure on the extension and your got the first and hardest bolt started.
Excellent. Modern cars are a nightmare to work on as the engines are pre-assembled and fitted with everything and no space or thought given to how mechanics can work on them. You earn your money. 👍🏻🏴🇬🇧
Brilliant video. I pulled the carpet back from the bulkhead and drilled the aluminium with a 20mm hole saw to access the bolts on the EGR pipe worked a treat.
Hi i have the same engine in my E class and the oil cooler keep failing every 6 months mixing the oil and water, do you have any idea what could cause it
great video Dave, i made the mistake of changing the 2 oil seals ,, thanks for shining the light on the issue, im going back next week to replace the whole unit as you have done ,how long would you say to do this job ? thanks again Dave
Ive one in the shop at the moment its got a very similar oily mess but thats the least of its worries. Its got limp mode with hard acceleration, P0087 and sometimes P0252. Its had 2 fuel filters already apparently. LP pump is 4-5 bar and doesnt drop off. Rail pressure at idle is 300bar which is about right, leak back at idle is a little excessive but all 4 injectors the same. Injectors out next and off for high pressure testing, really hoping something is found there because im not looking forward to getting to HP pump or QC valve 😢
Dave what's your thoughts on this engine I've got the a-class with the 651 but its fitted transversely not longitudinally, been told its an engine out job for things like the T/chain and even the clutch.
@@itsoffsideref5849 on a customers car we can't just change parts as we like when they still function normally. However, for your information, I have changed the housing on this car previously.
I’m generally a fan and advocate of the old Benz but that 651 is a horrible pile of junk in my opinion. 😂😂. Give me a V6 CDi any day. I was about to say there are no easy jobs on a 651 but I changed an alternator on one this Wednesday past. Looks like a nightmare to begin with but not too bad once you peel off a few bits and make some access. I still wouldn’t have one in a gift. I’ll send them all over to you Dave 😜😉
Oil leak on the v6 on the cooler seals is a nightmare, just did a coolant leak today on the same engine, another known fault you should have done it at the same time Dave, nice wee job! Good video chap keep it up 👍🏼
@@ilikebiscuits5672 for your information, i have previously changed the fuel heater in this very car. Not mentioned in this video as it is not the subject
Did you manage to fit the cooler onto the block without catching the seals whilst sliding it in. The lads at work have caught them a couple of times and then it pisses oil out when you fire it up.
@@zorankomadina7540 anecdotal. Suggest you go on Autotrader and see how many of these Merc engines with over 200k+ miles - as many as any other diesel engine I'd say. Certainly aren't as many 1.6HDI - which isn't without its problems. 2.0 HDI is better.
All proceeds from the shop goes to Poppy.
Find the items that are used on the Dave Sterl channel in the Amazon shop.
www.amazon.co.uk/shop/davesterl
This has been a life saver for me. Great work!
I’ve currently half way through the project and have just put in the new filter housing/ oil cooler.
I did two things differently….
1. I followed the advice of another commenter and drilled a hole in my battery compartment.
2. I found that you don’t need to go under the car or fully remove the ac compressor. There are three torx bolts holding it which can be accessed from above. Remove the bottom two (front and rear of ac compressor) then partly unbolt the top. You only need about 3-4mm to create enough space to withdraw the oil filter housing.
Champion....glad you have detailed this procedure. A huge help
Each of your OM651 videos have been absolute gems for me!
I've owned a 2011 manual CDI250 Estate from new, which now has 241,000 miles, but still pulls like a train and returns 50+mpg on a run, thanks to 'DIY' maintenance (performed well in advance of any dash service reminders) and YOUR highly valued TH-cam guidance.
So far I've replaced a cracked intake manifold, after watching your experience with the same model (blessing your advice to temporarily remove the battery and firewall - I personally couldn't have done that job, without this insight), I've replaced badly sealing intercooler pipes, a faulty throttle body and also a leaking fuel filter heater housing.
I've lost count of how many DPF differential pressure sensors I've replaced, they usually last about 12m , Although, the current one seems to be lasting longer, after being wrapped in foil, in an attempt to dissipate the surrounding heat issues.
However, an undefined excessive engine oil leak has been my nemesis, I've replaced the rocker cover gasket, injector seals and the oil and water 'O' rings (Mercedes Kit) on the oil cooler, none of which have solved the issue.
Mistakenly, I then concluded that the oil must be coming from the sump pan and didn't fancy that challenge, choosing to ignore all the evident oil contamination from well above this level and just making sure it gets a good clean before its MOTs.
Now, after your latest video, I realise I need to revisit this, replacing the complete oil cooler unit, with an updated version.
At the moment, I also appear to be loosing significant amounts of anti-freeze, but the radiator, water pump, fuel heater and cabin heater all appear to be bone dry and the engine oil is clear, so I've been at a complete loss to explain this.
I'm now wondering if this could also be related to the oil cooler unit, leaking anti-freeze from a split cooler unit, on this occasion leaking to the outside, as well as oil leak from the seal not included in the kit.
You've given me new direction and renewed hope, I was on the point of firing the parts canon for the anti-freeze leak, changing the radiator, as the only original item not recently changed.
I thank you for your wisdom. Cheers!
If you say could be leaking internally but oil is ok then where does the coolant goes ? Mine Same engine coolant does have the very light oil feel to it dont know mate 😊
Great tutorial Dave. The endoscope is a good call to fit the hidden bolt under the oil cooler. I’ve taped bolts onto the socket in the past.
The best way I found to reinstall the egr cooler is to start with the lower middle bolt, use the extension same as you have done , insert the bolt and extension in the lower middle hole and position the cooler in place lining up the other bolt holes keeping pressure on the extension and your got the first and hardest bolt started.
Absolutely the best channel on here, very precise and comprehensive thank you for all your hard work and dedication.
Tightly packaged. Nice work Dave 🍻
Excellent. Modern cars are a nightmare to work on as the engines are pre-assembled and fitted with everything and no space or thought given to how mechanics can work on them. You earn your money. 👍🏻🏴🇬🇧
Brilliant video. I pulled the carpet back from the bulkhead and drilled the aluminium with a 20mm hole saw to access the bolts on the EGR pipe worked a treat.
Thanks, this helped me enormously in doing the exact job!
Great information, Thanks Dave.
Very good Dave tidy work good job 👍
Certainly glad i am not paying for that repair lol . Great video Dave
I’m glad I don’t have to do a job like that. Huge respect for Dave!
Hi i have the same engine in my E class and the oil cooler keep failing every 6 months mixing the oil and water, do you have any idea what could cause it
great video Dave, i made the mistake of changing the 2 oil seals ,, thanks for shining the light on the issue, im going back next week to replace the whole unit as you have done ,how long would you say to do this job ? thanks again Dave
Nice work, can you share a rough number for how much the parts and labour would cost for this job?
Ive one in the shop at the moment its got a very similar oily mess but thats the least of its worries. Its got limp mode with hard acceleration, P0087 and sometimes P0252. Its had 2 fuel filters already apparently. LP pump is 4-5 bar and doesnt drop off. Rail pressure at idle is 300bar which is about right, leak back at idle is a little excessive but all 4 injectors the same. Injectors out next and off for high pressure testing, really hoping something is found there because im not looking forward to getting to HP pump or QC valve 😢
Awesome tutorial
Excellent video!
SUPERB DAVE. !!!!!
O my look at the size of that wee one. That’s a back breaker of a job 👍
Dave what's your thoughts on this engine I've got the a-class with the 651 but its fitted transversely not longitudinally, been told its an engine out job for things like the T/chain and even the clutch.
Did replacing the oil cooler and filter housing fix the leak?
How did you remove the back?
Best video mate time on thoughts where to put camera and explanation slow and steady 👍🏼
Super!!❤
What is the valve next to the cooler called
Did you had to drain engine oil aswel as coolant before starting taking off oil filter housing?
No it's not necessary, there will be a little oil in cooler though when you remove it
how long did it take you to disassemble and install a new part?
Brilliant thanks so much.
Thanks👍
How many hours does this take to do?
What torque on these bolt please
10 Nm on M6 bolts. 20 Nm on M8 bolts. (When they are bolted onto the aluminium crankcase)
Hi, can anyone reccomend where i could find the part?
Fuel filter housings fail on these OM651’s as well? While you’re in there!
@@itsoffsideref5849 on a customers car we can't just change parts as we like when they still function normally. However, for your information, I have changed the housing on this car previously.
No rust on that Merc. 😁
an OM651 leaking oil... what a surprise 😂
I’m generally a fan and advocate of the old Benz but that 651 is a horrible pile of junk in my opinion. 😂😂. Give me a V6 CDi any day. I was about to say there are no easy jobs on a 651 but I changed an alternator on one this Wednesday past. Looks like a nightmare to begin with but not too bad once you peel off a few bits and make some access. I still wouldn’t have one in a gift. I’ll send them all over to you Dave 😜😉
Aye, they are not well liked for sure. One this afternoon, changing a leaking fuel heater, now a no start. Great 😭
Oil leak on the v6 on the cooler seals is a nightmare, just did a coolant leak today on the same engine, another known fault you should have done it at the same time Dave, nice wee job! Good video chap keep it up 👍🏼
@@ilikebiscuits5672 for your information, i have previously changed the fuel heater in this very car. Not mentioned in this video as it is not the subject
The 651 is a great engine if maintained well.
Did you manage to fit the cooler onto the block without catching the seals whilst sliding it in.
The lads at work have caught them a couple of times and then it pisses oil out when you fire it up.
Expensive car and so much plastic BMW are no better.
Worst merc engine ever.
Absolute bollocks is it. It's a generally reliable and robust engine.
@@ln5747 I CHANGED 3 OF THEM . ONE IN SPRINTER AND 2 IN C CLASS. I HAVE CITROEN 1.6 HDI FOR 19 YEARS STILL RUNS AS NEW.
@@zorankomadina7540 anecdotal.
Suggest you go on Autotrader and see how many of these Merc engines with over 200k+ miles - as many as any other diesel engine I'd say. Certainly aren't as many 1.6HDI - which isn't without its problems. 2.0 HDI is better.
@@ln5747 I completely agree with that 100%.I know taxidrivers with 1.000.000 km with that engine(OM 651)
@@zorankomadina7540 anecdotal.